Lead pencil weights: Water Gremlin Pencil Lead | FishUSA


Lead Sizes for Mechanical Pencils

Since their beginnings in the early 19th century, the mechanical pencil (sometimes called a propelling pencil) has come a long way. With advancements in technology allowing for stronger, more robust ‘leads’ and continual improvements to the internal gripping mechanism, mechanical pencils have become the handy go to for all occasions; enabling both technical precision, and artistic flair.

Mechanical pencils have diversified over the years to hold a range of different lead sizes. The lead size will affect what your pencil will be best for.

We have outlined the 10 most commonly used lead sizes for mechanical pencils; what they look like, feel like, what they are good for and which products you should choose for this size lead. This picture shows the line widths of lead sizes from 0.3mm to 5.6mm.

0.3mm leads are the thinnest of the lead sizes currently available. As this size is generally used for technical drawings and finer details they are usually available in HB or harder, but softer graded leads can be found. The 0.3mm HB was hard to write with, as there was no give in curves. This size was excellent for drawing straight lines, especially when aided by a ruler. The effect was clean and precise.

Our Pick:

Platinum Pro-USE MSD 1000A 0.3mm Pencil

The narrow barrel and thin writing point make this an ideal pencil for professional drafting as they enable an uninterrupted view of the drawing.

This is a popular lead size with many companies creating mechanical pencils designed for 0.5mm leads. However several companies have recently changed their standard size from 0.5mm to 0.7mm e.g. Cross. The fine line is suitable for both writing and technical drawing. Like 0.3mm leads these are more commonly found in HB and harder.

Our Pick:

Ohto Promecha Mechanical Pencil

The aluminium and steel construction makes this pencil lightweight, but perfectly balanced. Whilst the rubber grip section which twists to set the exposed lead length makes this pencil a joy to use.

0.7mm is the most common lead size used for mechanical pencils. The writing style matches closely to the size of a fine ballpoint or rollerball, and is available in the widest array of hardnesses. The lead thickness is great for day to day writing, sketching and can be used for less detailed technical drawings. Very pleasant to use.

Our Pick:

Faber-Castell Ambition Pearwood Pencil

The sumptuous wood barrel of the Faber-Castell Ambition Pearwood coupled with the highly polished chrome trim makes this pencil a statement piece with real wow factor. Faber-Castell have a true pedigree when it comes to making fine writing instruments, with origins in the beginning of the 20th century and this pencil.

0.9mm leads are similar to a medium width writing point pen. 0.9mm was the standard size for mechanical pencil leads from the late 1940’s till around 1980. The size allows for writing and drawing strong, solid lines and lends itself well to sketching.

Our Pick:

Kaweco Special 0.9mm Push Pencil

The light and robust Kaweco Special has a balanced feel and suits both writing and drawing. The elongated writing point allows for the user to easily view what they’ve just put onto paper.

1.18mm (Sometimes known as 1.1mm or 1.2mm) were the standard size for mechanical pencils way back when they first became popular. As this size was used in the very first Yard-O-Led pencils, the company has made a conscious decision to maintain the size throughout the years. This size is similar to a broad point pen, and can feel slightly cumbersome for smaller handwriting.

Our Pick:

Worther Slight Mechanical Pencil Available in Black Aluminium or Natural Aluminium

This sleek lightweight pencil has a modern feel and is simple to use, with the writing point twisting to extend and retract the lead. This pencil also refills through the writing point opening so there are no loose bits to lose or break.

1.4mm is the last size of lead that is really suitable to write with. Past this width the letters can be difficult to draw and need to be simplified to ensure they are legible, however this does mean that 1.4mm leads are perfect for young children as it encourages them to write large clear letters. The lead width also ensures a solid and consistent line.

Our Pick:

Lamy ABC Pencil Available in Blue or Red

Designed for little hands, this pencil features an ergonomic grip to encourage correct finger placement and a robust wood and plastic shell. The included stickers enable you to label your pencil and ensure they don’t go walkies.

From 2.0mm upwards your lead may need sharpening in order to get the effect you are after. The 2.0mm size is cumbersome and was not pleasant to write with, but to sketch it was a pleasure. Great for shading. Press hard for strong dark lines and softly for smooth shades.

Our Pick:

Kaweco Special ‘S’ 2.0mm Push Pencil

Easy to use push mechanism and compact, durable aluminium body will make this your go to sketching pencil for carrying around in your bag or pocket.

These two lead sizes are so similar it is hard to tell them apart. 3.0mm and 3.2mm leads usually come sharpened in the pencil and will need to be sharpened depending on your preference. This size is great to sketch with and for shading. Press hard for strong dark lines and softly for smooth shades.

Our Pick:

Worther Shorty Available in a wide range of colours, including Green, Purple and Black

Cheap and inexpensive, but a thoroughly pleasurable writing experience. The Worther Shorty is has a durable plastic exterior and comes with a manufacturer lifetime guarantee. Due to their superior German craftsmanship, the Shorty has a cult following in the art and design world.

The largest of the common lead sizes. This chunky sized lead will need regular sharpening. It’s prowess lies in shading and sketching larger objects. Press hard for strong dark lines and softly for smooth shades.

Our Pick:

Worther Compact Mechanical 5.6mm Pencil Available in Black Aluminium or Natural Aluminium

This great sketching pencil comes fitted with 4B leads, perfect for sketching. Plus, this pencil comes with its own sharpener so you can ensure your pencil is always just so.

The picture below was drawn using all of the aforementioned lead sizes.

The Architectural Student: Drafting Tips

Picking Lead

has different handwriting styles which creates the need for different
types of leads as well as the need for depth in architectural plans and renderings. B Leads are darker and as you get to 9B they become more
and more charcoal like. When starting to draft, always use an H, generally 4H to 9H. They
are lighter in shade, with a harder lead that erases the easiest. Just be
careful not to write/draw too hard, it will indent the paper resulting in
issues with paper texture and eraser. You can also get a ghosting affect when shading.

Drafting leads can be expensive,
so get a combo pack or buy a few different ones. F‘s tend to be crappy
lead, so instead opt for an HB, F‘s work well for quick sketches though.
If I am using only a few line weights in a drawing I will use a light
for the construction lines (very light hand pressure), a harder 2H for the
smaller line weights (more hand pressure) a medium light 2H (a bit more
pressure) and a 2B for dark linework. You can also use a harder 4H for an additional lighter line
weight for the construction lines. Generally you need at least 3 line weights and as your drawing
gets bigger, adding additional B leads will increase the detail and intensity of your drawing. For additional line weights, add a
, 5B or whatever works for you. Leads right next to each like a 2B and a 3B
are only slightly different so jump leads by at least 2 or 3 to get
more line weights. Each lead you use will also have at least two line
weights itself. If in doubt, test on scrap paper of the same kind of
paper you are using before you start adding line weights to your final

Lead and Lead Pointers

are used with a lead holder, also referred to as a clutch pencil.
It is much faster to have a few lead holders so you can have a different
lead in each one. If you can afford it, start with three lead holders
and three types of leads or if you can’t, a couple different leads and a
holder will suffice. There are many to choose from. If you are new to
drafting see our Tutorial on Drafting Necessities: leads, lead holders, erasers, sharpeners, etc.

Drafting Lead, Lead Holders, and Lead Pointer

Starting a Drawing

Sample Lineweights

is best to start any drawing with an H lead of your choice. I use a 4H
to start on vellum and a 2H on
drawing paper. I do write considerably hard and snap leads easily, the
part is to sketch the drawing out. Do it with some style, meaning make
lines a bit too long, show the line intersections which adds to the
visual clarity of a completed object. Always erase mistakes so be sure
to start light, with a hard lead, don’t press down too much and crease
the paper. Mostly complete the drawing. You don’t have to finish it. I
generally get the basics done, then when I start to add the lightest
lineweight (other than the construction lines). I will add them in
before preparing to start to finalize the lineweights. These are things
like tiles, flooring, radiator, things that are detailed, but not major.
You will likely want to use between a 4H to a 2H unless you are making a
large, 24inX36in or so drawing, then no lower than a 8H. You can always
play around on a scrap piece of paper to pick out the leads you want to
use, depending on the drawing’s scale.The larger the drawing, the
further people will stand from it, so always stand back from your work
periodically to check its readability.

Prepare the Drawing for Proper Line Weights

Dry Cleaning Pad

after the drawing looks good and you want to go over it and add some
line weights, rub your dry cleaning pad
over the drawing, using a light back and forth motion. Don’t push too
hard or you may erase your work. This will take care of any smudges,
thereby cleaning the drawing before you start to finalize it.
From here on, use a drafting brush to remove any eraser bits, if
you brush it away with your hand at this point, you will end up smudging the drawing.

Adding Line Weights

Drafting Brush

start adding the final lines to your drawings, start with the lightest
or thinnest line weight first using a harder H lead. Add lines to the
drawing by gradual switching from a harder to a softer lead, leaving the
softer lead for last (ie 2B or 4B), they
smudge easily. With the higher numbers you may need to blow off the dust
it produces, never brush it away with your hand or you will smudge the
drawing, always blow it away or use a drafting brush. A 2H lead works best for
lettering, using anything softer than a HB will usually result in a lot
of smudging and issues with erasing. Stencils make for quick, easy, and consistent lettering.

Drafting Tips:

A good tip is that if you are
working on something with a lot of detail or is very large, you can
tape, or place a scrap piece of paper over whatever part of the drawing you have finished to protect it
from smudges. Don’t write on the paper or you will get your pencil on
the back of it and off of your drawing, making it look funny. If taping it down, you can
lessen the stickiness of the tape by sticking it to your cloths a couple
of times. Folding over a tape edge will also help you get it off later.
Be careful with your triangle or straightedge because sometimes the tape can
stick to the bottom of them so be sure you don’t have any of the sticky side facing up.

you get to the B leads, be careful when sliding your triangle or
straight edge on the drawing. You can easily smudge the drawing at this
point since B leads are more charcoal like. Pick them up and set them on
the drawing, no sliding. You can always use some eraser crumbs from the
dry cleaning pad
so they will ‘glide’ over the drawing. I never had too much luck with
this technique and it can erase the drawing, though it may work for
some. Any beginner drafter should probably not bother with it. I just
don’t slide my triangle over the drawing. Also be sure to use a clean
triangle or other straightedge. An old towel, handkerchief or a mild
soap wash will keep your tools clean. Cleaning the lead off after every
time you sharpen it will also help keep your drawing from getting lots
of smudges. You can also rest your hand on a piece of scrap paper. Tracing paper works well since it is cheap and see through.


White Eraser

On vellum, a white eraser such as a Staedler Mars erases the best, however on paper, a Papermate Pink Pearl Eraser often can work the best. When you are working on the details of your drawing, it can be hard to erase so use an Erasing Shield.
You simply put one of the holes of the shields over your drawing to
protect and erase through the shield. Don’t brush the eraser crumbs away
with your hand or you will slightly erase what you have already done. Use a Drafting Brush to get them off your drawing.

Erasing Shield

Drafting Must Haves

Recommended list of things that every Architecture Student should never be without.

– Both Engineering and Architectural. Either a parallel rule or a T-square, one large and one small of both a 45 and 60 degree triangle. An adjustable triangle can also be helpful if you will be doing a lot of hand drafting.

Drafting with Pen

If you decide to draft with pen, a prismacolor or micron pen
are not design for drafting. There are drafting pens out there. The
refillable ones are very expensive while there are also cheaper disposable drafting
pens. It is easier and cheaper to use pencil, but
nothing beats a nice drafted ink line on velum.

Hand Rendering Tutorial

Once you have learned about line weights using either pen or pencil, you can check out the Hand Rendering Elevations Tutorial.
The tutorial is based on tracing computer generated elevations, which I
generally do for class, however, it explains the different methods of
coloring and layer colors using trace or velum which will be helpful for
conceptual sketching and graphic conceptualization of your ideas.

Pen and marker on trace

Further Information

The best book to get for your architecture collection is Francis D. K. Ching’s book, Architectural Graphics
currently in its fourth edition. I have this book in my collection, It
goes through leads, paper, and drawing technique in the first chapter.
The rest of the book is how to draft architecturally. Plans, sections,
elevations, perspectives, you name it, it has it. I use it for reference
every now and again even now. Buy it from Amazon from a third party
seller either ‘New’ or ‘Like New’ condition which will save you a bit of
money. Always check seller reviews.

If you are new to
the architecture field or drawing in pencil and are interested in knowing more about pencils,
their different leads and types, check our my

. In this tutorial, I explain different lead types, different pencils, their quality and the uses for each.


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The Best 0.7mm Mechanical Pencils for Drafting, Writing, and Drawing – ARTnews.com

Never requiring sharpening, mechanical pencils let you work for hours without interruption. The ones we’ve chosen here all hold 0.7mm leads, a useful lead size that’s ideal for day-to-day writing and sketching, as well as less detailed technical drawing. And since 0.7mm leads are popular, refills are available in a wide range of grades, from soft to hard. With their durable construction and ergonomically designed grips, these pencils will last through your most labor-intensive projects.

1. Arteza HB Mechanical Pencil Pack

The mechanical pencils in this pack of 16 have rubber grips so you can keep working all day long. A sturdy barrel on these pencils protects the leads, and the pack comes with 8 extra erasers and 48 lead replacements so you won’t have to buy any refills for a while. As an added bonus, these tools, which were made with drawing and sketching in mind, won’t squeak while in use.

Image courtesy of Amazon

Arteza HB Mechanical Pencil Pack


2. Pentel Twist-Erase III Automatic Pencil

This pack of two mechanical pencils comes with two additional long-lasting erasers, and you’ll get a combination of red and black or black and blue colored barrels. The lead creates precise dark lines when put to paper, and it won’t break easily. The pencils’ soft grip makes them comfortable to hold for hours without cramping or tiring. Even though you’ll get just two pencils, these tools are guaranteed to last you through months’ worth of projects.

Image courtesy of Amazon

3. Paper Mate Clearpoint Mechanical Pencil Starter Set

With this pack of three mechanical pencils, you’ll also get two extra jumbo erasers and one additional lead set. The lead is easily dispensed by clicking a convenient button on the pencil’s side. What’s more, the textured grip on these pencils will make for happy hands, and the erasers on these pencils will do a thorough job. This is the perfect tool for learning the craft of drawing, and testing new techniques on the page.

Image courtesy of Amazon


Paper Mate Clearpoint Mechanical Pencil Starter…


4. Uni Kurutoga Mechanical Pencil

This sleek pencil, whose body is an icy blue, has a 0.7mm lead tip that’s ideal for executing works on paper for your next big gallery show or imagining the façade of a new building. With an advanced lead rotation mechanism, this pencil suits those who have made drawing a central part of their life and career. The lead in this pencil is perfect for sketching, and gives you the most control of the various weights of your lines.

Image courtesy of Amazon

Uni Kurutoga Mechanical Pencil


5. Zebra M-301 Stainless Steel Mechanical Pencil

Perfect for drawing and writing alike, these pencils have stainless-steel barrels. The nonslip grip is designed for comfort, and the erasers and lead are refillable. A pocket clip on the side of the pencils keeps them handy in your shirt pocket, so you’re ready to work whenever inspiration strikes. Engineered to last longer than the average plastic mechanical pencil, these durable and reliable pencils will simplify all your note-taking and art-making needs.

Image courtesy of Amazon

Zebra M-301 Stainless Steel Mechanical Pencil


Graphite Pencils Explained – Sophie Ploeg

As I am working on a graphite and charcoal drawing at the moment I thought you might find it useful if I  write down the basics of graphite. What are those letters of HB and H and B at the end of the pencil actually mean and which should you use?

Pencils are made from graphite. Graphite is a form of carbon (diamond is also a form of carbon, so it’s always nice to think you’re drawing with diamonds, he he). Carbon also exists in charcoal. A graphite pencil lead has mainly two powdery components: graphite and clay. The more graphite it has, the softer and darker you can draw with it. The more clay it has, the lighter and harder the pencil is.

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Graphite pencils come in a range from 9H, 8H etc to 1H, and H. It then moves into HB and then B1, B2 etc towards B9.  B9 is the softest and darkest. 9H is the lightest and hardest graphite pencil. So a B6 is softer and darker than a B2. An 6H is harder and lighter than a 2H and much harder and lighter than a HB or a B pencil. Sometimes you can find an F pencil which is a slightly harder version of HB, meaning you can sharpen it to an even finer point. 

hard/light << 9H  8H 7H 6H  5H   4H   3H  2H   1H  H  F  HB  B1  B2  B3  B4  B5  B6  B7  B8  B9  >> soft/dark

Graphite pencils come in a range from H to B

There is no need to have all these types of graphite pencils. Many artists work with three or so pencils of varying darkness and hardness. Usually these three are fairly close together in the range. So someone might work with an HB, 2B and a 4B. Or perhaps a 2H, F and a HB.  This latter trio consists of harder and lighter pencils so a drawing made with these will be a lighter drawing with less dark blacks.  

It makes sense to choose pencils that are fairly close together in the range (although perhaps not right next to each other to make sure there is sufficient difference between them). If you want to create a light drawing, in a high and bright key, you will not need a deep soft and dark 9B pencil. In a bright drawing your darkest shade will probably still be fairly light. So you might not need anything darker than a HB. If you want to draw a very dark drawing there is no point (excuse the pun) in using an extremely hard and light pencil such as an H. The thin and fine line of an H pencil will just disappear against the brute darkness of a strong B pencil. So choose your pencils only one or two steps apart: an HB, 2B and 6B for example. Or a 4H, 2H and an HB. 

A B pencil will not only give you a soft and black mark, it will only provide a much coarser mark than an H pencil. H pencils are so hard and fine they will provide you with a sharp and fine (but light) mark.They are great for tiny detail and super sharp lines. Dark B pencils are more suitable for expressive dark mark making and less detailed work. 

H and B pencils can work very well together when you need to refine a coarse and dark B pencil area. If you go over such a dark area with a hard pencil you can fill up the open texture and create a much softer transition in values. 

The smaller your mark-making, the smoother your drawing

A 6B pencil makes a much coarser mark than an H pencil. The bottom sample is a 6B pencil with a layer of H pencil over it.

A hard pencil will be more suitable for very subtle transitions in value and a smooth effect. A soft pencil can create deeper darks but cannot create a smooth application. 

You can end up filling the tooth of the paper with graphite and end up with a super smooth and shiny area that will not take any more graphite. The paper will have been flattened by the pressure of your mark making and your continuing mark making will ‘buff’ the graphite and make it shiny. Working lightly and in layers should avoid this effect, although not everybody minds the shine of graphite. 

Pencils can be sharpened with a sharpener (replace regularly to keep using a sharp blade), a knife (see below) or sandpaper. Choose whichever you prefer. 

There are a gazillion erasers out there to choose from. I like Staedtler rubbers and also kneadable rubbers for tiny detail. I always aim to not use it too much as graphite can be hard to erase (harder than charcoal) and so for me it pays off to start lightly and work the drawing up from there. 

Graphite can be rubbed with a paper stump or the slightly sharper tortillion, tissue, or even fingers (but watch out for skin grease smudging the paper). 

Of course graphite can be used in combination with loads of other art materials such as charcoal, pastel, acrylic, watercolour, oils etc. 

How to Sharpen Pencils

This short video by artist Brandon Schaefer shows how to best sharpen a graphite pencil

Petals & Lace, graphite, 36x30cm. Available via Catto Gallery. £950

A Reference Guide to Graphite Sketching Pencils

A pencil is a pencil, right? When it comes to fine art pencils, the truth is quite the opposite. Graphite pencils for sketching and drawing are typically marked with an H, a B, or both. These abbreviations are used to indicate the hardness (H) and the blackness (B) of the pencil’s graphite.

The Grading Scale for Graphite Pencils

Pencil makers use abbreviations to indicate the type of graphite used in each pencil. Although they sometimes vary by brand, the abbreviations usually follow a basic formula.

Pencils are marked with H’s and B’s: the H means hard and the B means black. These letters can be used alone or in combination with one another, such as the HB pencil. The HB is equivalent to the American Number 2 pencil you’ve used for years. A Number 1 pencil is the same as a B pencil.

Many pencils also have a number associated with them. This indicates the degree of hardness or blackness the graphite produces. Pencils are graded from 9H to 2H, H, F, HB, B, and 2B to 9XXB. Not all pencil makers produce every grade.

Deciphering the Graphite Pencil Code

It’s good to know about the materials you’re using, but how do you apply this knowledge to your drawings? Each artist and pencil is going to be a little different, but there are some general rules that you can use as guidelines:

  • H pencils are hard and they leave less graphite on the paper. This means that they are lighter.
  • B pencils are softer and leave more graphite on the paper, meaning they are darker.
  • F means Fine Point. This is quite a hard pencil and is easy to keep sharp, but generally a bit too hard for general drawing.
  • The more H’s, the harder a pencil is. This means that a 4H pencil is harder than a 2H and therefore also lighter. The 9H is typically the hardest and lightest graphite pencil available.
  • An HB pencil falls in the middle of the scale. For drawing, it’s still reasonably hard.
  • The more B’s, the softer a pencil is. This means that a 5B pencil is softer than a 2B and the 5B will produce a darker mark. The 7B is the softest and darkest of the common pencils (8B and 9XXB pencils are even softer and darker).

Swatch Your Drawing Pencils

The best way to understand exactly what a pencil has to offer is to do a swatch. This allows you to see how light, dark, soft, and hard each pencil is in your set. If you keep your swatch with you while drawing, you can use it as a reference or cheat sheet when deciding which pencil to pick up.

Making a pencil swatch sheet could not be easier. Simply grab a spare piece of your favorite drawing paper.

  1. Organize your pencils from hardest (H’s) to softest (B’s).
  2. One by one, draw a small swatch with each pencil. Do so in a grid and label each shade with the corresponding pencil grade as you go.
  3. When you add a new pencil to your collection, add a new swatch to your sheet. 
  4. If, at some point, you find that your cheat sheet is unorganized because you’ve added or subtracted pencils, simply make a new swatch sheet.

Next time you need to do some deep shading, you’ll know exactly which pencil is your darkest. Need to make light cross-hatching marks? Just grab the perfect H pencil for the job. This simple, five-minute task can take the guesswork out of drawing.

Measurement of physical quantities

On the wrapper of the chocolate is written “weight 100 g”, in the calendar we read “sunrise time 6 hours”, and on the packaging with New Year’s candles “length 20 cm”. Where did these numbers come from?

The numerical values ​​of all quantities appear during the measurement. To measure is to compare with a measure, that is, a sample for comparison. For example, weights serve as a measure for the mass of a chocolate bar, divisions on a ruler serve as a measure for the length of the candles, and the position of the hand on the watch dial serves as a measure for the time of sunrise.

Weights with masses of 0.5 kg and 1 kg or cans with volumes of 1 l and 3 l are independent measures. However, measures are often inseparable from measuring instruments. For example, the divisions of the scale are from the ruler.

So, measurement is a comparison of the properties of the studied body or phenomenon with a measure (often using a measuring device) and the expression of the result in the form of a number and the unit chosen for this measurement.

All measures and / or measuring instruments are not absolutely accurate.Let’s make an experiment. Let’s take two 1 kg cast iron weights that are used in trade. Let’s put them on the laboratory scales. They will show that the masses of the weights are not exactly the same. The difference can be up to several grams!

There are several reasons for this: inaccuracy in the manufacture of weights, their wear during prolonged use, adhesion of dust particles, and so on. These and similar reasons lead to the fact that measuring instruments and measures always introduce some inaccuracy in the measurement result – an error.

Important: our actions with measuring instruments and measures also introduce some error into the measurement result.

Let us refer to the figure. The left shows the measurement of the length of a pencil when we look at it from the front, for example, while sitting on a chair. And on the right is the measurement of length when we look at the pencil from above, for example, bending over the desk. Therefore, by measuring the length of the same pencil several times with a ruler, each of us can get different results, for example, values ​​of 18.7 cm and 18.8 cm.Each of them is correct.

So, the inaccuracy of measuring instruments and measures, as well as the inaccuracy of our actions with them, lead to the fact that the result of any measurement always has an error.

However, the question remains: what value should be taken to record the result of measuring the length of a pencil? You can choose any, but you can take additional measurements. That is, again align the end of the pencil with the zero mark of the scale, or rather direct your gaze to the end of the lead.This method of multiple measurements allows you to more confidently select one of the pencil lengths.

Multiple measurements are not the only way to reduce the error of the result. You can use the series method. For example, to measure the diameter of one pea, place 10 peas in a row and measure its length. If we divide it by 10, we get the average diameter of one pea.

Tasks in mathematics Grade 2

Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
Option 4

Task 1.

One girl loves bells, another loves daisies, and the third loves cornflowers.
Tanya: I love bells (that’s not true).
Olya: I don’t like cornflowers (that’s not true).
Vera: I don’t like cornflowers (it’s true).
Guess what kind of flowers Vera loves.

Answer: Bells

Task 2.

Insert numbers.
27 + (… – 8) = 37 Answer: 18
… + (49 – 3) = 75 Answer: 29
(… – 3) + (43 – 40) = 30 Answer: 30

Task 3.

Lena has 16 pencils in two boxes.
When she took 3 pencils from one box, there are still 8 pencils left in it.
Name the number of pencils in each box

Answer: 11 and 5

Task 4.

Misha said that one ribbon is 2 times longer than the other.
Olya said, about the same ribbons, that one of them is 3 cm longer than the other.
State the length of each tape.

Answer: 3 cm, 6 cm

Task 5.

Insert the required numbers.
40 min + 50 min + 20 min = … h … min Answer: 1 h 50 min
6 h 50 min + 1 h + … min = 8 h 50 min Answer: 60 min

Task 6 .

Igor and Masha have 17 notebooks. How many notebooks does Igor have if Masha has 3 more notebooks?

Answer: 7

Task 7.

Six weights weighing 6 kg, 5 kg, 4 kg, 3 kg, 2 kg, 1 kg were placed in three boxes – two weights in each.
Weights in the first box weigh 9 kg, in the second – 8 kg. What weights were in the third box?

Answer: 1 kg + 3 kg

Task 8.

Fill in the blanks.
… × 3 + 29 = 59 Answer: 10
7 × … + 18 = 32 Answer: 2

Task 9.

Which number is less than 81 by the product of three triples?

Answer: 54

Task 10.

The girl had 18 apples. She changed every 3 apples for 2 pears.
And then every 3 pears she changed for 1 candy. How many sweets does the girl have?

Answer: 4

Tasks in mathematics 2nd grade

Option 1
Option 2
Option 3
Option 4

Dumbbells, barbells, weights | kaup24.ee

Dumbbells and Barbells

Sports equipment such as , such as the dumbbells, are ideal for exercising both at home and in the gym. It is one of the simplest and most popular types of equipment for effective strength training, rehabilitation exercises and staying in good physical shape. In addition to dumbbells, in the catalog of our online store you can choose barbells and barbells for them, and many other types of sports equipment for athletes with different levels of training.

Varieties of dumbbells and other sports equipment

In collapsible dumbbells with variable weight, the required load can be set independently.

Safety dumbbells made of foam rubber with a soft cover, resistant to moisture, good grip and non-slip during training.

Ergonomic Fitness Dumbbells Vinyl or neoprene coated are very comfortable and will not damage the floor if accidentally dropped.

Bar Weighing Discs with soft vinyl outer layer prevents floor damage, spring clips allow quick and easy weight changes.

Weightlifting belt designed to protect the spine and waist. Ideal for heavy workouts.

Weight ball made of soft plastic material – an alternative to hard dumbbells, it does not pose a danger to the athlete in case of accidental contact with the body.

Arm / Leg Weights with Adjustable Velcro is another effective and comfortable accessory to achieve your desired results.

Buy dumbbells and barbells cheaper than

Buy profitably in Tallinn and other Estonian cities we offer everything you need for strength training in our e-shop Kaup24.ee. The assortment includes dumbbells, barbell bars and weights of such famous brands as Insportline, Spokey, Gymstick, Hms, S-Sport, Ecgspor, Tunturi, Meteor, TKO, Tiguar, Body Sculpture, S-Sport and many others, to choose the best option in terms of functionality, style and color. As with the purchase of any product, the order can be delivered to the specified address or you can pick it up for free in our physical stores.

90,000 Autumn option for grade 5. Russian language – VLOOKUP tests

Option # 1 of test work with answers.

Task 1
Rewrite the text by expanding the parentheses, inserting missing letters and punctuation marks where necessary.
L..snaya wilderness … (On) kr..yuh..shchi lonely r..binka. Branches (k) z..mle bent down (under) t..yellow bunches..yago yago (d / t). (On) r..bink .. it is important to eat sn..giri. They dive (in) sleep (h / c) swim (not) afraid of getting sick. Damn..t sn..giri (on) white .. tablecloth .. furrows..ki and next..dy-crosses.

The name of the bird (from) the word “sleep (g / c)”. Why exactly this SN..weight – first weight..nick from..we. (C) h..l..dami and the first ro (b / n) to..m dream (w / w) com … are sn..giri. Attached .. birds are melting (on) z..mo (v / f) ku (s) of the north.

Gru (d / t) ka (y) sn..the weight is red, like an apple..ko. (On) g .. black beret. Wings..ya (s) syn..m (from) liv. W..my is the most beautiful .. bird..ka.


Wilderness. At the edge of the thicket there is a lonely mountain ash. The branches bent to the ground under the heavy bunches of berries. Bullfinches sit importantly on the mountain ash. They dive into the snow. swim, are not afraid to get sick.Bullfinches are drawn on a white tablecloth with grooves and cross-marks.

The name of the bird from the word “snow”. Why exactly this? Bullfinch is the first messenger of winter. With cold weather and the first timid snowball, bullfinches appear. Birds arrive for wintering from the north.

The bullfinch’s breast is as red as an apple. On his head is a black beret. Wings with a blue tint. In winter, this is the most beautiful bird.

Task 2
From the sentence below, write down a word in which all consonants are voiced.
Brother draws in the album with paints and colored pencils.


Task 3
Expand the word given below in composition.


Task 4
Above each word from this sentence, write what part of speech it is.
Brother draws in the album with paints and colored pencils.

Brother is a noun.
draws – verb
in – preposition
album – noun
paints – noun
and – conjunction
in colored – adjective
with pencils – noun

Task 5
Underline the grammatical basis in this sentence.
Brother draws in the album with paints and colored pencils.

Brother draws

90,000 What makes a male figure ?. For many years, it seems from 16 to 32 years old, I … | by alyadov

For many years, it seems from 16 to 32 years old, I stubbornly went to the “rocking chair”.With a height of 180 cm, my weight rose to 90+ kg, and my bones were overgrown with muscles. However, despite the impression of massiveness, the reflection in the mirror always disappointed me. Something was wrong. “Probably, there is not enough volume in the thighs,” I decided, and began to frantically load my legs. “No,” the idea came, “probably my back is not developed.” And the training program changed again. Chest, hips, biceps, abs – muscles were bulging everywhere. However, the overall impression was somehow incomplete, as if I was still missing something important.

Only many years later, when I turned 43 years old, and I was seriously carried away by wrestling (and then, not immediately, but only after a couple of years), I finally realized my mistake. Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu required me to do specific exercises to increase overall coordination, strength and endurance, but, most importantly, it made my body survive in fights with opponents much more skillful than me at every training session.

In other words, jiu-jitsu began to sculpt my body, like clay, under its secret goal.It may seem that in wrestling the more muscles the better, but this is not so. More precisely, this is true to some point, after which the benefits of muscle mass begin to decrease, or even create difficulties for you. In addition to general sports requirements, what should be the figure of the wrestler, a lot also depends on genetics, inclination, style, or as they say in BJJ, your “Game”. One fighter attacks quickly and imperceptibly like lightning, the other, like an octopus, braids the enemy from all sides, the third deftly hangs with all his weight, like a landslide of a gaping tourist in the mountains.

Jiu-Jitsu sharpens the shape of the body so that the wrestler’s chances of winning are maximized. And, despite the strong differences, the bodies of all “jitters” are somewhat subtly similar. So, colored pencils and fountain pens have more in common with each other than, say, with a compass or a hammer. Therefore, it is difficult to confuse the figure of a basketball player and a weightlifter, a cyclist and an MMA fighter. The function determines the shape, not the other way around.

Howard Schatz

A year ago, I added kettlebells to my workouts to try and solve the problem of chronic shoulder pain.The experiment was a success – the muscle frame strengthened and the pain went away. In addition, literally in 3 months of training several times a week for 20 minutes, my strength and muscle weight increased dramatically, so that my fellow wrestlers even began to suspect me of using steroids. But the most curious thing is that, looking in the mirror, I realized that for the first time my figure began to look truly masculine. The only radical change “before and after” is the size and roundness of my shoulders. Kettlebells strengthened many large and small muscles and ligaments of the shoulder girdle, visually expanding the span of the shoulders and outlining an “inverted triangle” on the body.Which, in fact, even at a distance, allows you to decide who you are dealing with. Well, or, for example, which door you should enter.

It’s a shame I didn’t know this when I was frantically swinging my biceps and hips when I was young. It seems to me that any person, even with the most neglected body, can radically change it quickly if he picks up a kettlebell several times a week and does 3-4 basic exercises. If I were forced to choose only one muscle group for maximum muscularity, I would choose deltoids.Abs cubes, brutal hips, a wide back – all this is fine, but only as an addition to round, like cannonballs, shoulders. Perhaps that is why the figures of the swimmers are so beautiful – even if they are thin, it is a pronounced triangle, and not a rectangle, circle or square.

Perhaps you are a financier, programmer or marketer. That is, you probably only have your brain and fingers pumped. Summer is on the nose. T-shirts, vacation and beach. How can you, through micro-efforts, get the macro effect and add masculinity to the body without going to the surgeon in Thailand, buying a Harley or letting go of a thick beard? My advice – buy a cast-iron weight for $ 20, you can vintage, that is, second-hand – weights only get prettier over the years.Only, mind you, then do not scold me when in a few months you have to look for new shirts.

Homemade scales for small items – Do it yourself – DIY portal

To weigh an object weighing up to 50 g will help the most simple equal-arm scales , shown in Fig. 1. The main part of the scale is a wooden ruler (school) 50 cm long, which is placed on a pencil. Thus, we get a lever of the 1st kind, in which the forces are located on both sides of the support.If the pencil is positioned exactly under the center of gravity of the ruler, the sum of the moments of forces acting on both parts of the ruler relative to the fulcrum (pencil) will be equal to zero, that is, the ruler will be in equilibrium, and it will maintain this state of equilibrium in the presence of equal loads at the ends of the ruler, which and allows you to use the “ruler-pencil” system as a beam balance.

Fig. 1. Scales from a wooden ruler mounted on a pencil

The cups fixed at the ends of the ruler are used to place the object to be weighed and weights.If it is supposed to weigh bulk material, then a plastic bottom from a jar of small diameter (30 … 40 mm) is best suited for such a cup. When weighing individual items, instead of cups, it is better to install small discs on which it is more convenient to place both these items and weights. In both cases, it is necessary to mark the centers of the cups or discs and try to place objects and weights precisely in the centers, since the accuracy of weighing largely depends on this.

When determining the mass of an individual object, the weights are placed on the right cup, and the object to be weighed – on the left.This order of using the cups is due to the fact that in this case it is necessary to manipulate the weights, and it is more convenient to do this on the right side. If it is necessary to obtain a certain dose of a bulk substance, on the contrary, it is preferred to place weights in the left cup, and on the right one – the weighed substance (which is added or poured as needed).

The sensitivity of scales from a ruler and a pencil is quite high even when using a 6-sided pencil as a support and allows you to catch even milligrams when weighing.

However, the accuracy of such measurements strongly depends on how equal the arms of the lever (ruler) are, therefore the homemade scales shown in Fig. 2 have a significantly higher weighing accuracy. Such scales consist of a rocker suspended by the middle. To accommodate the weights and the weighed weight, the cups are tied to the beam. To determine the balance position on the rocker, the arrow is strengthened. A few turns of wire wrapped around the lighter arm of the rocker arm serve to initially balance the weights.

Fig. 2. Scales from a suspended wooden ruler: 1 – arrow; 2 – suspension; 3 – wire loops for balancing

A similar rocker arm is easiest to make from the same school wooden ruler by drilling three holes in it: in the center of the ruler – for hanging the rocker arm, at the ends – for attaching cups. In this case, the central hole is located closer to the upper edge of the rocker arm, and the extreme ones – to the lower one. This position of the holes provides the necessary “verticality” of the position of the plane of the ruler.

For cups, as already mentioned, bottoms or lids from plastic containers are suitable.

After assembling the scales, you will find that one of the rocker arms is lighter than the other. Then we wind several turns of wire on the lighter shoulder and achieve balance by setting the arrow vertically. A more accurate fit is carried out by already moving the turns of the wire along the ruler.

Any thread can be used as pendants. But nylon fishing line is best suited for this purpose. To increase the sensitivity of the scales, do not forget to sand the edges of the central hole with sandpaper, removing a small chamfer from them.

The beam of such a balance is easier to make from wire, as shown in fig. 3. However, a wire beam deforms more easily than a wooden ruler.

Fig. 3. Wire rocker arms

Is there anything you can replace the factory-made weights that are so necessary for weighing? Of course it is possible, for example, with “copper” coins of the Soviet minting, which had a fairly accurate mass. So, a coin in denomination of 1 kopeck weighed 1 g, and 2-, 3- and 5-kopeck coins weighed 2, 3, and 5 g, respectively (Fig.4).

Fig. 4. “Copper” coins – weights

Smaller weights are obtained as follows. A piece of copper wire weighing 1 g is selected using the appropriate weight, using a ruler and nippers, divide it into 10 equal parts. As a result, 10 weights of 100 mg each (or 20 of 50 mg) are obtained. Smaller weights made in this way will not be very accurate.

The situation will become more complicated if there are no ready-made weights or old “copper” coins available. But the situation is not hopeless.Take a thick steel wire. It is known that a running meter of steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm weighs 99 g, a diameter of 5 mm – 154 g, a diameter of 6 mm – 222 g, a diameter of 8 mm – 395 g, a diameter of 10 mm – 617 g. Please note that these data are valid only for carbon steel, for alloy steel, these ratios will be different.

Dividing a piece of wire into measured pieces, you get homemade weights, with which you can determine the mass of objects (up to 50 g) with an accuracy of fractions of a gram.

As you can see, everything is quite simple.

Weights, Dumbbells, Vultures cheap | 220.lv

Sports equipment: dumbbells, weights, weights

In the modern world, special attention is paid to a healthy lifestyle and sports, but with our intense rhythm of life, it is not always possible to allocate time to visit the gym. Therefore, in order not to miss workouts and keep your body in good physical shape, you can do it at home, purchasing the most necessary equipment for this.


This is a simple but very effective equipment that exerts a load on all muscle groups, improves posture, increases the body’s endurance, gives you good health and strength. Nowadays, the sports goods market offers a large selection of dumbbells, which differ in shape, size, weight and appearance. In general, there are two types of dumbbells:

Light alloy

These are fixed weight dumbbells that are perfect for a variety of exercises, cardio workouts and stay in good shape.Can be made from different materials, for example, metal dumbbells, rubber dumbbells, vinyl or neoprene dumbbells. For home workouts, rubberized dumbbells are considered a good option, since they do not scratch the flooring or vinyl and neoprene, which do not slip out of your hands during training. The weight of these dumbbells can vary from 0.5 kg to 32 kg, therefore, if dumbbells with a low weight are used in the first workouts, then increasing the load, there will be a need to purchase dumbbells with a large weight;


These dumbbells consist of bars and weight discs (pancakes) of various diameters and weights.Therefore, increasing the load of your workouts, you will need a set of replacement pancakes. When choosing pancakes for the bar, it is important to pay your attention to their fastening. Pancakes can be threaded and without, which are tightened with nuts. But it is better and safer to choose with a thread, since when hitting the floor, even if the nut is unscrewed, the pancakes will not fall. The bar for a dumbbell is also different, of different weights, lengths and shapes. For example, the standard bar is suitable for resistance training; Olympic bar – for squats and deadlifts, curved – for French bench press.


This is another effective sports equipment with which you can build muscle mass and increase endurance. Nowadays, there is a wide selection of weights of various shapes, weights and materials of manufacture. There are also sports and fitness kettlebells.

  • Sports cast kettlebells are made of anti-corrosion cast iron and are comfortable during training, as they have a balanced center of gravity.

  • For fitness , especially if you are a beginner, a kettlebell is suitable, the body of which is made of hard plastic, and inside there is a filling made of metal and plastic.In addition, these kettlebells have a non-slip grip surface, which makes them more comfortable during exercise.

There are also adjustable weights for home workouts to choose from, which can be used to adjust the weight and, in this case, eliminate the need to purchase several cast weights of different weights.

Weights for arms and legs

For more effective and efficient training, you can use weights, in the form of belts or cuffs, which add additional load during exercise.Your choice is offered:

  • Leg weights that put additional stress on the ankles, calves and thighs;
  • Arm weights that strengthen the muscles in the arms, shoulders and upper back.

Have you decided to take up sports more seriously or want to increase the effectiveness of your training? Are you looking for where you can buy dumbbells in Riga or in another city in Latvia? Then, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with our wide range and buy yourself high-quality sports equipment.

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