Frixion Pens-All you need to know | Quilt Skipper: Jenny K Lyon
This is my fourth and hopefully my final post on Frixion pens. A recent discussion on FaceBook prompted me to explore this one last time. Some prominent quilters and artists have said things about the Frixion pens that I have not found to be true in my own experience, so I needed to get the facts. I ended up talking directly with a rep at Pilot to get the facts.
If you’re not familiar with Frixion pens, they are a line of pens and highlighters made by Pilot that are heat erasable. Frixion pens make a crisp, clear mark which goes on smoothly and easily with no skipping. After quilting, you simply steam the ink lines away and poof, they are gone! This seems like the Holy Grail of marking methods for us quilters. It is important to note that Pilot did not design the pens for fabric and did not test them on fabric while developing the concept.
But quilters/textile artists had problems with the pens, namely two:
-Sometimes they left what I call a “ghost” mark after steaming the initial mark away. It was faint, but certainly not something you would want to see on your quilt.
-If the quilt got cold, the marks reappeared.
Quilters wrote articles noting that if the marks reappeared in the cold, it was because the quilter did not thoroughly steam the marks. This simply is not the case. The ink combination used in the pens has two parts-one part makes the mark and one part makes the mark disappear. There is still ink left on your quilt after steaming, you just can’t see it. The ink is still there and will reappear in the cold.
I know it sounds odd talking about a quilt getting cold! But if you throw your quilt in a suitcase or the back of your car or, in my neck of the woods, drive up to Tahoe in the winter, your marks will come back. But even worse for competition quilters, if they are shipped and get cold, the marks will be back on your quilt at the show you sent them to-not a good thing.
As to the ghost marks, I did not find a pattern as to which fabrics would show the marks. Some say that if you pre-wash your fabrics you won’t get those marks. That was not the case for me. So I had to test on any fabric I wanted to use them on to make sure I would not be left with ghost marks after steaming the ink marks away.
I felt like I needed to know for sure the answers to the problems with the Frixion pens. I called the Pilot pen company and asked for a representative knowledgeable about Frixion pens and their use on fabric. She was quick to note that Frixion pens were not designed to be used on fabric!
She explained some important things to keep in mind when using Frixion pens on fabric. The Frixion ink is actually a combination of two things: gel ink, and a thermo ink. The addition of the thermo ink is what makes the gel ink disappear with heat. But note, Frixion pens are basically gel pens with some added thermo ink. That means that you are putting gel ink on your quilt when using Frixion pens. That ink will disappear only because of the thermo ink-the gel ink is still there on your quilt unless you take additional steps to remove it.
Mötsenböcker’s LIFT OFF® #3
Because so many customers were using Frixion pens on fabric, Pilot did some testing to try to remove the stains. They tested two specific products that will help remove the stains: Amodex and Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3. I can find the Mötsenböcker’s in my local grocery store but I have not heard of Amodex. She noted that just like removing any other ink stain, sometimes you would need to spot scrub to remove the mark. Ugh-editorial comment!
So in summary, straight from the manufacturer’s mouth so to speak, a summary of using the Frixion pens on fabric:
1. Frixion pens combine gel ink and thermo ink. You are marking your quilt with a gel pen that disappears.
2. The marks will reappear if the quilt gets cold (anything below freezing I think-I did not confirm the specific temperature) unless the mark is completely removed with an ink remover. Even after a thorough steam of the marks, they will reappear in the cold. This is part of the inherent chemistry of the ink combination.
3. To completely remove the ink so that it will not ghost or reappear in the cold, you will need an ink remover and also may possibly need to scrub the area. The manufacturer has tested Amodex and Mötsenböcker’s Lift-Off 3 and found them to be fairly effective in removing the ink.
4. Frixion pens sometimes leave a ghost mark after steaming. This is the thermo ink showing on the quilt, not the gel. The Pilot rep said to rid the piece of ghost marks you would need to treat it with the ink removers listed above.
So this is a definitive summary of the Frixion pens straight from the pen’s manufacturer.
For me, I will not use these pens very often because I frequently do competition pieces. I cannot risk having any problems with the marking method I use. I think they are great pens for other marking needs but we need to be aware of their limitations. And remember that the Pilot pen company did not design these pens for fabric.
My Favorite Fabric Marking Tools – Frixion Pens
There are few tools in the sewing room that could be called life-changing, but Hallelujah for the Frixion Pen! OK so maybe that’s a little over the top but I love these pens so much I just can’t stop talking about them. Whenever I recommend a fabric marker for one of my projects, I’ll always link out the these sweeties.
Alternative Fabric Markers
What do you use to mark fabric? There are a number of different ways, some more modern (and some more effective) than others:
Tailor’s chalk? In a variety of colors, doesn’t make a very sharp line, can be a bugger to then try to remove it without washing. Drop it on the floor and it can break. Tends to drag the fabric as you mark I find. But it’s been used for years in all the best tailoring establishments and many still love it. It might even come as standard in your beginner sewing kits.
Some kind of chalk marker? I still use my very fine white CHACO chalk marker on black fabrics sometimes, but only on the back, because again it doesn’t usually all come off fully without washing. This has loose chalk and a tiny wheel that distributes it as you draw a line. Can be refillable. Clear and accurate on dark fabrics.
One of those Hera fabric markers? Basically this is just a way to make a temporary mark on fabric by pressing a small crease into it. Not really a marker. I don’t have one of these but it probably has a lot of other applications in the sewing room too as a pokey tool or for a quick finger press.
A traditional disappearing ink fabric marker? Forget it. Those darned things are hopeless – supposed to fade slowly over 24 hours? Nonsense. I used to think it was me, but no, others say the same thing. Go over and over the same place multiple times to create a faint purple line you can just barely see. Turn your back for 30 seconds – the mark has already managed to disappear. In fairness, it works better on some fabrics than others and it did stay longer when the pen was new. Fades over time or can be removed with a damp cloth or washing.
I also fell for it and bought what was supposed to be a disappearing marker in white for marking black fabric. Don’t make me laugh! This was hopeless!
A pencil or regular writing pen? Yes, you can use regular pens and pencils to mark fabrics too, but only on the edges or within seam allowances, sometimes on the back if you are sure it’s not going to show through to the front. Keep a Sharpie out of your sewing room. Yes, I picked up one by mistake and marked my fabric for a bag thinking it was a disappearing marker.
Or the world’s best fabric marker, the Frixion Pen!
More about the Frixion Pen
I’m sure it was never intended to be marketed to sewers, but now you’ll be seeing these popping up in sewing rooms all over the world. Maybe you remember the original erasable writing pens from the 80’s called Erasermate. It felt like magic at the time, ink that you can rub away, but in all honesty, they were pretty rubbish. They never did write very well to begin with so no wonder they were so easy to rub off.
Now the erasable pen has new technology and is perfect for the sewing room. The Frixion gel pen comes in a wide range of colors, writes beautifully just like a regular roller-ball pen, and can be used on fabrics as well as all the other usual surfaces.
It has a fine nib and is easy to use, meaning you can mark accurately for better results when sewing.
The Frixion Pen uses heat-sensitive ink which means a quick blast with steam or an iron and it disappears. Although one word of caution here – if you use your pen in a light color on a very dark background and go over it several times to make a clear line, it may leave a slight chalky residue when you erase it. That will wash out though.
Ta-dah – it’s like magic. Now you can mark all over your fabric with abandon.
Where to get these miracles
I got mine from Amazon and got the multipack you see in the picture above, just because they are pretty and now I have lots of colors.
Amazon USA or Amazon UK
You can also get them right off the shelf in good stationery stores. Look out for Frixion Erasable Gel Pens.
For those with cold weather
I’d heard it said that because the ink is heat sensitive, in below-freezing conditions it can come back again. That’s not something I’ll ever have to worry about here in Cayman unless we have another Ice Age, so I popped my piece of fabric in the freezer overnight to make sure it was good and cold.
Sure enough, the writing DID come back in the freezing conditions. So if you plan to use your pens on projects that will be exposed to very cold conditions, left in a cold car overnight etc, then do make sure that you only mark on the reverse side, in seam allowances, etc or places where the marks won’t suddenly show up on the face of your nice bag!
I couldn’t be bothered to get my iron out for a scrap of fabric so I carried out another kitchen experiment and popped it in the microwave for a few seconds. That did the trick, the fabric warmed up and the ink disappeared again. It’s a miracle I tell you. You need one!
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Pilot Pen Frixion Colors Erasable Marker Pens
Color code your life with our genius new Seal holder: permanent-looking marker pens whose incredible disappearing act wowed in our Media & Tech Lab’s tests.
Pilot Frixion Pens
FriXion Colors Erasable Marker Pens
WHY IT EARNED THE GH SEAL
Pilot Pen’s Frixion Colors Erasable Marker Pens impressed our engineering and creative teams thanks to its erasability, quality, and design.
- INNOVATIVE ERASER Make a mistake while writing? No biggie. The cap’s built-in rubber end is specially designed to remove ink, and doesn’t shed like regular pencil erasers.
- HEAT-SENSITIVE INK Because Pilot Pen’s unique formula reacts to temperature, friction from rubbing with the eraser (which creates warmth) makes it vanish.
- BOLD TIP Our pros like that its sturdy, pointed tip holds up under pressure for sharp lettering and fine lines.
- VIBRANT ASSORTMENT The erasable technology works across a rainbow of colors (12 in all), including black.
Shop More Pilot Products We Love
Bottle-2-Pen Retractable Ball Point Pens Made from Recycled Bottles
Acroball PureWhite Retractable Advanced Ink Ball Point Pens
G2 Mini Premium Retractable Gel Ink Rolling Ball Pens
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Pilot Frixion Erasable Pens Review
Being a planner addict I’ve tried many pens. My all-time favorite planner pens are the Frixion erasable pens by Pilot.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links.
- Erasable (and not messy). Unlike the erasers you need to rub out pencils, the Frixion erasers have something special that means there’s no residue and you can use it over and over again without wearing the eraser down and needing to get a new one
- I prefer the medium point tip (0.7mm) although you can also get them in 0.5mm and thicker marker style (more on that below)
- You can purchase each color individually so if you use a lot of one color you can simply buy one to replace, rather than buying an entire pack of pens
- they are not super inky. Some pens ‘feather’ the ink but these ones don’t
- They don’t show throw the backside of the paper
- They don’t smear or smudge
- They have a comfort grip where you hold it making it easier to write with
I recorded a video to explain how the Frixion pens work (including a demo of the magic eraser!)
To enlarge the screen of the video, click the square icon in the bottom right hand corner of the video (it will say ‘full screen’ when you hover your mouse over the icon).
For more planner related videos, subscribe to my YouTube channel
This style has a medium point (0.7mm) which is also my favorite thickness for planner pens!
I like the retractable style the most as I can use it one handed and not have to worry about the pen lid disappearing.
I have not seen the retractable frixion pens in a pack with other colors (only sold individually). Walmart appears to sell them in packs (if only they shipped to Australia!)
Related post: planner essentials: my favorite black planner pens
The style with a lid also has a medium point (0.7mm).
the lid can get annoying as your natural instinct will probably be to put the lid on the end of the pen. But if you do this you’ll have to take the lid off when you need to erase something as the eraser is on the end of the pen not the lid. I don’t know about you but I find lids always go missing leading to pens drying out or leaving pen marks in my pencil case.
The style with the lid is the only style I’ve been able to find that come in a pack for a discounted price.
Related post: best pens for writing on washi tape
The fine tip marker style also come in rainbow colors – the tip is 2. 5mm. I wouldn’t recommend these for use in your planner as the pen showed through on my planners. I find these are best for writing reminders on sticky notes.
The Frixion brand also have:
Related post: How to color-code your planner (so you’ll actually use it effectively)
You can buy the Frixion erasable pens from the following places (almost all of these will have them individually if you just want one color and places such as staples and Officeworks usually have them in bulk if you want to get multiple colors).
- Mega office supplies (if you want to buy in bulk) – Australia
- Ebay (worldwide)
- Officeworks (Australia only)
- Big W (Australia only)
- Woolworths (Australia only)
- Coles (Australia only)
- Staples (USA & Australia)
- Walmart (USA only)
- Jet Pens (USA)
- Amazon (USA)
Most places sell the pens individually. I’ve had better luck finding the packs online rather than in bricks and mortar stores.
My sister stocks them in her shop, Carefully Crafted (she ships worldwide).
Big W sell them individually and have a range of every color ($3.50 each – $4 each). I’ve also seen them at Woolworths and Officeworks for about $3.50 each.
More of my favorite planner supplies
You may also be interested in…
Write Secret Messages with FriXion Pens
This shop has been compensated by Collective Bias, Inc. and its advertiser. All opinions are mine alone. #PowerToThePen #PilotYourLife #CollectiveBias Do your kids like writing secret messages and secret codes? Show them how to write secret messages with FriXion® Pens by Pilot Pen. The erasable ink is heat sensitive and will appear or disappear based on the temperature of the paper.
Write Secret Messages with FriXion Pens
Pilot Pen makes my favorite brand of pen. I love how smoothly they write. My 8 year old also enjoys writing with a pen. Erasable FriXion pens make fixing mistakes so much easier. Did you know that FriXion pens can be used to write secret messages? The ink disappears because of the friction (and heat) being applied to it when you erase. You can make the erased ink reappear by placing your paper in the freezer.
We headed to Target to pick up our FriXion pens. Look for them in the everyday pen aisle or the back to school section. Be sure to use your Target app to grab the Cartwheel offer that expires August 4th.
Right now you can also get a coupon for $1 off FriXion 2-pack or larger.
I chose the FriXion ColorSticks and Colors Marker Pens.
There are two ways to write secret messages with FriXion pens. The first way only requires paper and a FriXion pen. Experiment with different colors to see which ones work on the paper you choose. We found white paper to work best, but colored paper worked with some of the pen colors.
Secret Message Method #1
Choose a pen and write down a message. Be sure to write gently if you are using the FriXion ColorSticks or you can leave an impression on the paper when you erase. The FriXion Colors Marker Pens won’t have this problem.
Now simply erase the ink from the paper. You’ll want to use the eraser on the FriXion pen. It is harder than a regular eraser. Remember it’s the friction and heat that’s causing the ink to disappear. It’s actually still there – just clear at a warm temperature.
If you’re child happens to struggle with erasing, tell her to erase faster. Use short, quick strokes and you’ll erase cleanly every time.
Now for the cool part. Pass around your paper and no one can read it. It’s now a secret message. Want to reveal the message? Place the paper in the freezer.
Depending on the color you’ve chosen, you should be able to see the message in just a few minutes. (The yellow took a bit longer to be easy to read. ) The longer you leave the paper in the freezer, the darker the color gets. You can see a comparison of FriXion ink that hasn’t been erased (the question) and FriXion ink that has been erased and then placed in the freezer for a couple hours.
The answer to the joke appeared after being placed in the freezer.
My son and I had fun passing back and forth secret messages we had created. I think his favorite part was waiting for the ink to reappear in the freezer. I love that this was a simple and fun way for him to practice writing.
My 4 year old also enjoyed writing secret messages and secret drawings with the FriXion pens. I used the activity for her to practice writing her name. She would write her name and erase it. Then, we’d put the paper in the freezer and wait for her name to reappear.
Secret Message Method #2
Our second way to write secret messages with FriXion pens requires one extra thing. In addition to the FriXion pens and paper, you’ll need a permanent writing utensil. We used pens and colored pencils. You want something that won’t erase but can be easily covered up by one of the FriXion pens.
Write your message using a permanent writing utensil. Let the ink dry. Scribble over your message with an erasable FriXion pen. You now have a secret message (or at least a covered up one).
To reveal your secret message, simply erase the FriXion ink. You can create heat using friction (with the eraser) or you can use another heat source. Adult supervision should be used here. Try using a hair dryer or a lamp. If it’s hot enough, you may be able to take your paper outside. If you choose to use the eraser, be gentle. It’s easy to tear up the paper.
It’s super fun to decorate the paper with the FriXion pens and hide the secret message underneath.
What method will you try first? Pick up the FriXion pens at Target. Be sure to grab the $1 off coupon, too.
More Secret Message Activities for Kids
Which Pen is Better the Uni-Ball Fanthom or the Pilot Frixion?
By Midnight Indigo 18 Comments | Last Updated
he Pilot Frixion is the undisputed king of erasable pens but now Uni-Ball has thrown down the gauntlet with its Uni-Ball Fanthom erasable gel pen. We have tested both pens in today’s battle of the pens to try and find out which is better.
1. Writing Performance
Both Pens write very smoothly and the Fanthom probably edges it over the Frixion. However the ink is laid down straight away with the Pilot Frixion but the Uni-Ball Fanthom took a few strokes before the ink was flowing freely. Although this is not a major issue it is slightly annoying.
The Uni-Ball Fanthom has a slim hard plastic grip area that is quite smooth with indentions cut into it. I found it quite slippy to hold and not particularly comfortable.
Whereas the Pilot Frixion has a thicker grip area made of rubber with indentations in the rubber. The thicker rubber grip of the Frixion I personally found more comfortable and easier to write with, but I do prefer a pen with a thicker barrel.
3. Choice of Ink Colours
Both pens have a good range of ink colors and at the time of writing this the Pilot Frixion is available in eight different ink colors in the UK and the Uni-Ball Fanthom has a choice of six different ink colors. The ink for both pens that we tested is a little bit on the pale side but this is a characteristic of erasable pens in general.
We carried out a couple of tests to check the erasability of both pens.
1 The first test was to write a test sentence and then erase it.
2 The second test involved writing a new sentence over the erased area.
First we tested the Uni-Ball Fanthom; the writing is erased by rubbing the cap of the pen over the writing. Quite a bit of energy is required to erase the writing and although it does a reasonable job you can still see a faint outline of the original sentence where some residue of the ink is left.
We then wrote over the original sentence that had been erased which again produced reasonable results. The new sentence is clear to read although you can tell that it is written over erased text.
We then tested the Pilot Frixion unlike the Fanthom the ink is erased with an eraser at the end of the pen and the results were far more impressive. All the ink was erased and you have to look really closely at the paper to see the indentations from where the original text had been written.
Check Price and Reviews on Amazon
Once we had written over the erased sentence with the Pilot Frixion it was virtually impossible to tell that this had been written over erased text.
An erasable pen has to be judged on performance and although the Uni-Ball Fanthom does a reasonable job at erasing the Pilot Frixion is still the superior pen and remains the king of erasable pens. Pilot Pens also makes a great Frixion TV commercial.
I am sure that both pens will have their supporters and we would love to hear from anybody else who has used either of these pens.
Editors Update – The Uni-ball Fanthom is now discontinued and replaced with the Uniball TSI erasable pen.
If you are looking for an erasable pen or would like to know more about them then why not check out our Complete Guide Guide to Erasable Pens.
Marking Tools – Love To Sew Podcast
Mark our words: marking tools are important! Helen and Caroline break down all the different kinds of marking tools so that you can choose the best ones for your projects.
The transcript for this episode can be found on this page, at the end of the show notes.
Leave us a voicemail with your questions, comments, and feedback: 1-844-SEW-WHAT (1-844-739-9428)
Helen: We are recording today on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish and Kwakwaka’wakw peoples, including Tsleil-Waututh, Squamish, Musqueam, and K’ómoks first nations.
Caroline: Hello, and welcome to Love to Sew. I’m Caroline, the owner of Blackbird Fabrics.
Helen: And I’m Helen, the designer behind Helen’s Closet Patterns.
Caroline: We’re two sewing buds who love to sew our own clothes and want to encourage you on your sewing journey, too. Join us for today’s topic: marking tools.
Helen: Hi, Caroline.
Caroline: How’s it going?
Helen: It’s going well, thanks. How are you?
Caroline: I am very good. I’m excited to be recording with you today. Nice to see your face.
Helen: Ah, same here. You know what? The week this episode comes out is my birthday week.
Helen: And I’m going to be turning 33.
Caroline: Oh my gosh, that’s a nice number.
Helen: It is a nice number.
Caroline: A nice even number.
Helen: I’m quite excited about it.
Caroline: It’s actually an odd number, but it’s even in the numbers.
Helen: In Caroline’s world, that is an even number. It is a satisfying number and I’m, I’m pretty excited. My second pandemic birthday. So it’s not going to be terribly exciting, but, um, I’m sure we’ll do something nice.
Caroline: Ah, happy birthday.
Helen: Aw, thank you.
Caroline: I hope that Sam makes you a delicious meal.
Helen: Oh, you know it.
Caroline: And, I hope you like my present.
Helen: Aw, all right. Wait, are you thinking about what you’re going to buy now?
Caroline: No, I totally already have a thing for you that I am sending.
Helen: Oh my gosh. I have a hope and dream for what it is, but I’m not going to say it out loud lest I jinx it.
Caroline: Ok, perfect. Our poor listeners are going to be left in the dark for this.
Helen: It’s true. You have to find out what it was on Patreon. You can join us over there at patreon.com/lovetosew.
Caroline: Good point. Okay. Before we get into the show, we wanted to mention to you all that we are having a spring sale on our Love to Sew merch the week this episode comes out.
Helen: Yes. All of our t-shirts, tote bags, and enamel pins are on sale for 25% off until April 19th! And we’ve got our podcast logo available as a pin as well as our “Stitch Witch” t-shirts and our “You can Make anything” tote bags. We’ve also got shirts that say “I love to Sew” and so many other goodies! And I have to say, not to toot our own horns, but I’m gonna. But we were pretty serious about sourcing quality manufacturers for these products. And I’m still so happy with how the products turned out. Like, after six months of wearing my t-shirts every week, at least once a week, they still look brand new. Like the black is still really nice and dark, and the print is still really nice and crisp. And I don’t know, sometimes t-shirts just don’t wear that well, but these ones, I have to say, are wearing very well.
Caroline: It’s so true. My t-shirts also look amazing, and I wear them all the time. I wear them to do pottery. I wear them to work, and I use my tote bags all the time. They’re so nice and heavyweight. They have this great side panel. They have room for everything. I bring them for all of my groceries all the time, so I’m always, like, repping Love to Sew when I go grocery shopping. They’ve really up to my tote bag game.
Helen: Yeah, so since we’ve stopped having advertisements on the show, not sure if you noticed but we did, this shop and our Patreon are the best ways that you can support us and the show. So if you like to listen and you’ve learned from Love to Sew, consider snapping something up in the sale. I mean, it’s a win/win. You get something cute. We get something cute, your love and support.
Caroline: I totally agree. You can check us out at lovetosewshop.com. That’s 25% off your order this week at lovetosewshop.com.
Helen: All right, Caroline, should we get into this episode? I mean, I know marking tools doesn’t sound that exciting, but mark my words, it is.
Caroline: I love this. Yes. There are so many tools that you can use to mark your fabric. It can be kind of overwhelming to decide what’s best for you or best for a certain project.
Helen: Yes, and having the right marking tool for you can make a big difference in your sewing experience. So in today’s episode, we’re going to talk about all kinds of different marking tools and when to use them.
Caroline: So, just in general, when do we need to use marking tools?
Helen: Well, usually it’s to transfer information from the pattern to the fabric piece that you’ve just cut out. So that means things like darts, notches, pocket placements, button hole placements, or button placements, but you can go a little off script and mark whatever you need to. You could mark a grainline or a center front, if you have a hard time seeing it on a certain piece of fabric. You can mark the right side of your fabric, so you can tell it from the wrong side, once you’ve figured out which is which. And you can mark front and back pieces, if they look similar. So all this information can prevent a lot of seam ripping and frustration later on.
Caroline: And before we begin sharing tools, we want to share the most important piece of advice we have on this topic. And that is: always test first! The risk with marking tools is that you don’t always know, at first, how they’re going to interact with your fabric. So, test your marking tool of choice on a scrap of your garment fabric before you make marks on your cut out pieces. And if you test first, then you can be sure that you’re not going to be left with marks on a garment you worked really hard to make. So taking that few minutes is totally worth it, and do it every time you have a new fabric because different marking tools will react differently depending on the fiber content, the weave. So just always, always test. Always test.
Helen: Caroline, do you always test your marking tools on your fabric?
Caroline: Helen! That’s not the point. That’s besides the point.
Helen: No, you know what? This has happened to me. I used a blue chaco liner on a white linen button up shirt. And yes, it was a bit foolish. I know what you’re thinking, but I did it anyway because I haven’t had very many issues with my chaco liners. I kind of use them willy-nilly. So I used them on this white linen button up shirt to mark my button hole placement, and it left a blue residue under the button holes. Even, like, after washing, I could still see, there was a slight blue tinge. It wasn’t too serious, but I knew it was there, and it was really bugging me. So after all that hard work, I should’ve been more careful and not rushed those final steps and not used blue on white.
Caroline: Yeah, I mean, it seems obvious now. Obviously, hindsight is 20/20, but I think that it happens to the best of us. Luckily, it has not happened to me, but I’ve seen it happen. And I remember this shirt that you’re talking about, and it’s so heartbreaking which is why, Helen, it’s key to test on your fabric. Do as I say, not as I do. I feel like I’ve said that way too much on this podcast, but it’s true.
Helen: Just a little bit, but that’s okay. Okay, now that we’ve talked a little more, generally, let’s get into the nitty gritty and talk about specific tools. We’re going to start with a big category in marking tools, and that is chalk and waxed based tools. So the first on our list is the most classic of marking tools: tailor’s chalk.
Caroline: Yes, tailor’s chalk is a small, flat rectangle or triangle of chalk-like material that has narrow edges for marking. They’re also sometimes called tailor’s crayons. And tailor’s chalk can come in a lot of different colors. Most often you’ll see them in white, yellow, kind of, a rusty red, or a blue. And this is a really traditional tool. Although tailor’s chalk used to be made out of actual chalk which is soft and, kind of, like, a white, sort of, rock or soapstone, they now come in two basic formulations: clay-based and wax-based.
Helen: Yeah. So let’s talk a little bit about clay-based tailor’s chalk. It’s usually made of talc which is a clay material that’s often been used in baby powder or a titanium dioxide which is an important ingredient in mineral sunscreens, too. Clay-based tailor’s chalk can be brushed away after you don’t need the mark anymore which is great for avoiding permanent marks. However, if you’re not careful, the chalk can fade or disappear if you handle the fabric too much. You know, sometimes you make a mark to mark a dart, and then when you get to the step to sew that dart, the marking’s gone. Sometimes it just brushes away, and that’s really annoying.
Caroline: Yeah, definitely. Okay. What about wax-based tailor’s chalk?
Helen: Yeah, so the advantage of wax-based tailor’s chalk is that the marks are bright and clear, but the disadvantage is that they’re difficult, or impossible, to remove from the fabric. So it makes sense to use wax-based tailor’s chalk if you’d like to trace a pattern piece onto fabric or make markings on the edges of a piece that are going to end up hidden inside your seam allowance or get trimmed away later.
Caroline: Yes, and something to keep in mind when using tailor’s chalk, is not to stretch out your fabric when making the markings. You might find it helpful to hold the fabric down on the table with your flat hand or a quilting ruler and mark right next to that, so you’re not, kind of, moving and warping the fabric as you mark. You want to use the flat edge of your tailor’s chalk for larger lines and marking around big pattern pieces and use the points for more precision markings.
Helen: Ooh, is that why they’re triangle-shaped?
Caroline: Yeah, I mean, I’ve also seen, like, square-shaped ones, but I think that you definitely make use of all the different parts of it, right? And you also need to keep in mind that these things need to be sharpened. So you can actually buy tailor’s chalk sharpeners, so that you can make really sharp lines. But an alternative is to just sharpen them the old-fashioned way by scraping it away with a knife or an x-acto blade so that you get a really nice sharp edge where you need it. Just be careful when you do this.
Helen: Yes, and another little tip we have is to keep your tailor’s chalk in a little ziploc bag to prevent it from shattering and getting your sewing toolbox all covered in chalk dust. You know, ask me how I know.
Caroline: I used to have these in school. And I actually, wasn’t a huge fan because I would keep them in my kit with all of my other drafting tools and sewing tools, and they break up, and they get this like chalky residue on everything. So I just, kind of, had this aversion to those types of chalk markers because they’re just messy.
Helen: Yeah. I haven’t used them very much because I like to use a different tool which brings us to our next subject which is: Chaco liners. And these are made by Clover, and they come in many different colors. And they’re pretty popular in the sewing community, so you might have seen them before.
Caroline: Yes, and we’ve definitely talked about them on the show before. It’s no secret that this is our favorite marking tool. So Helen, why do we love chaco liners so much?
Helen: Well, I like that the chalk dust is all contained inside the tool, so it’s not getting everywhere. And then there’s a little rolling wheel which allows for precision marking, and you don’t have to struggle to sort of drag it along the fabric to make those marks. We were talking about how, with the tailor’s chalk, if you’re dragging it along the fabric, you can, kind of, warp your piece. I find that the little rolling wheel doesn’t distort the fabric as much when you’re using it. It also makes a really satisfying, cute little rolling wheel noise.
Caroline: It really does. And then you can really hear when it’s not rolling nicely, kind of, cause it makes a different sound. So you need to, kind of, like, go test it on another piece; try again. It is a very satisfying tool to use.
Helen: Yeah, I actually first encountered it when I graduated from high school and my home-ec teacher gave me a chaco liner pen and a pair of fabrics sheers, like, on the graduation stage. When I went and walked across the stage to graduate, she, like, presented me with this cute little gift cause I loved my home-ec class so much. And I spent so much time in the sewing room with her, so that was really special. And that was my first time ever encountering the chaco liner, and I’ve never looked back.
Caroline: Yeah, I also love that there are lots of color options with this pen, and they last a really long time. I have not had to replace mine yet, but when I do, I like that there’s a refill option instead of buying a whole new pen as well.
Helen: Yeah, it’s true. You sell them at Blackbird. Is that right?
Caroline: Yes, we do.
Helen: Woo-hoo! Okay, so these are a plastic pen-like casing that’s filled with powder. The powder inside is made up of the same material that’s in tailor’s chalk: it’s a talc and a pigment to get the color. And there is a flat tip with a roller in it that dispenses a thin line of chalk whenever you roll the pen over your project. And it’s refillable, as we said, so you can reuse it. And, much like clay-based tailor’s chalk, you can brush it away when you no longer want the marking, but unlike tailor’s chalk, it rolls smoothly over the fabric, and it doesn’t tug or stretch it.
Caroline: I would say that the disadvantage to chaco liner pens is that, like tailor’s chalk, the marks can fade or get brushed away when you’re, like, handling and ironing the fabric. So it’s nice that they brush away, but it’s also not nice depending on when it happens.
Helen: It’s true. You have to be a bit strategic about when you make your markings, especially if you’re cutting projects out on a different day or time than you’re sewing. Even just the passage of time can cause these kinds of marks to fade.
Caroline: Exactly. Okay, we’ve talked all about chaco liners, so let’s move on to chalk pencils. This is another type of marking tool. Like tailor’s chalk, marking pencils can come in chalk or wax formulations. Dritz actually sells a chalk cartridge set where you can insert a chalk cartridge that looks like a thin pencil into a pen, and it also comes with a sharpener. And some of these chalk pencils just look like regular pencils, but instead of graphite in the center, there’s a waxy kind of marking formula. And these are nice cause they feel more familiar to hold in your hand than tailor’s chalk, and they have less risk of breaking into a million pieces.
Helen: Yes. So true. Okay, there’s also wax or chalk transfer with a tracing wheel, and this is a really neat system that I feel like is underused. I learned how to use this, again, when I was in high school, and I used it a lot for marking different things. And it can be really handy because the struggle often when you’re marking is, like, how do you get access to the area you want to mark underneath the pattern piece, right? The pattern piece is kind of blocking everything. So using a dressmaker’s carbon paper, chalk transfer paper, with a tracing wheel is one way that you can get underneath the pattern without disturbing it at all, so you make sure that it stays in the right place. So essentially it’s a small metal wheel with little points on it that’s attached to a handle. It looks, kind of, like a little pizza cutter or a rotary cutter, but it’s super spiky. And you roll it over the dressmaker’s carbon paper to transfer the markings onto your fabric. So you’ll have three layers: your fabric on the bottom, then the carbon paper with the colored side down, and then your pattern on top. And then you run the tracing wheel over the lines in the pattern to transfer the color from the carbon paper onto the fabric. You don’t even need a video. You’ve got me.
Caroline: Do you ever think about, like, sewing tools, like, as emergency weapons?
Helen: This would be the one.
Caroline: Like the tracing wheel? I think, like, if I were, like, zombie apocalypse, I would have, like, my rotary cutter in one hand and my tracing wheel in the other.
Helen: I might grab my awl, you know, it’s really spiky.
Caroline: Or, like, the, uh, this is getting a little dark, but my, um, what’s it called? The anvil.
Helen: Oh my goodness. It’s true. It’s nice, it’s, like, it’s, like, heavy…
Caroline: It’s very heavy.
Helen: …but it’s still light enough that you can swing it around.
Caroline: Anyways. Moving on. So dressmaker’s carbon paper can come, once again, in wax or chalk formulations in many colors. And you can use the paper many times over, basically until it stops making marks.
Helen: Yeah, and a tracing wheel and carbon paper are great to use for sustained lines, like transferring patterns on the fabric, rather than making really small marks, like a pocket placement. Just cause it’s a bit of a hassle to get out all of this stuff just to make like one little dot on your pattern, but you do get a really nice exact transfer from pattern to fabric, so I do love that about it. The downside of this is that it can be a little unwieldy to deal with big sheets of carbon paper and your fabric and the pattern and the spiky wheel. So it’s just a slightly more involved situation.
Caroline: Yeah, I always wondered with that stuff, I’ve never used it before, but will the residue from the paper get on your fabric in the areas where you’re not using the tracing wheel or does it kind of keep to the paper pretty well?
Helen: It keeps to the paper pretty well. I think, I’m not sure if I’ve used more of the wax or the chalk versions though. Um, I think maybe the wax version, and then in that case, it didn’t transfer. Maybe the chalk ones are a little bit more dusty. I don’t know.
Caroline: Hm, I want to try it out. It seems really cool. Okay, so this next one is also so cool. There is a device that can make marking a hem by yourself so much easier. It’s basically a hem gauge combined with a chalk puffer. It looks a bit like a camera tripod, but without the camera on top. It has measurements along the stick in the center and a little pen sticking out from it that you can adjust to whatever measurement you want for your hem. And then you hold an air bulb that is attached to the pen by a hose and stand with your skirt touching the pen and you squeeze the air bulb to puff chalk powder out of the pen and mark your hem. So you can go around the whole hem that way. And I just think that that’s really innovative.
Helen: It really is. This is truly for, you know, the home sewist who’s going at it alone. And the benefit is, too, that, like, of course you could measure from the waistband of your skirt or dress or pants down to figure out what the hem length should be and make it even all the way around. But maybe it’s not hanging evenly because you’ve got like a bit of a belly or, you know, because your bum is holding it up in the back, so you actually don’t want the same distance all the way around. You might want a different distance in the front than in the back. And this hem gauge measures up from the floor, so it gives you a more accurate hem.
Caroline: Definitely, and I would say the disadvantage of this tool is that it’s pretty big. So if you live in a small space or if you just like simple solutions, this might not be for you. But the advantage is that the chalk powder is easily removed, and you can mark a hem without anyone else’s help. So it’s really, a thing that’s really self-sufficient, you don’t have to rely on anyone else to help you. And it’s really helpful for a-line skirts, circle skirts, things that can warp and stretch with gravity, so you know you’re always going to get that even hem every time.
Helen: Awesome, and we have a Dritz version of this product that we will link in our show notes.
Caroline: Amazing. So that wraps up our discussion of chalk- and wax-based marking tools. Let’s move on to another popular type of marking tool: the fabric markers.
Helen: Yeah. Popular brands of disappearing fabric markers include the Dritz Mark-B-Gone, Clover Water Erasable Marker, Pilot Frixion Pens, which are not for sewing but have been used by sewists for quite some time now. And also Crayola Washable Markers work well for sewing, too.
Caroline: Yeah. So there’s like specialty ones for sewists and then, like, secret ones that we’ve discovered as sewists, and we’ll talk more about that later. I’m going to give another warning. While it’s important to test any marking tool on your fabric, it’s especially important with fabric markers which have more concentrated color. So please, please, please test the tool you plan to use with the fabric you plan to use, results can differ. So even marks that disappeared on one fabric type might not on the other. Okay, warning over.
Helen: Okay. So most of fabric marking pens contain water soluble material. So you can tell if a pen is water soluble because the instructions will tell you to wet the fabric to remove the marks. And these work because the pigments are put into water-based mediums, so when they come in contact with water, they dissolve in it. In contrast, permanent markers are put into non-water-based mediums that do not dissolve in water. So Crayola Washable Markers aren’t intended for use by sewists, as we mentioned, but they work on the same principle as water-soluble fabric markers.
Caroline: Okay. Next is, kind of, a sewing hack because these pens are not formulated for use on fabric, but we use them anyways, as sewists: the Frixion pens. These are pens that are made for writing and erasing on paper, but sewists have started using them because the marks disappear when you iron them. The science of how it works is really interesting. The ink is made up of microcapsules that contain three substances: leuco dye, color developer, and color change temperature regulator. At room temperature, the leuco dye bonds with the color developer to make the ink’s color. When heated, by the friction of an eraser rubbing or the heat of an iron, the temperature regulator breaks these bonds, and the color disappears.
Caroline: It’s really fascinating. I love the science behind this, and we should thank our assistant, Lisa, for doing this research because I think it’s really cool.
Helen: It is really cool. And I think it’s kind of magical, too, when you go to iron your project and the marks disappear, but I’ve also had situations where, you know, you’re sewing a dart or something, and you want to give it a little quick press before you go to the sewing machine, and then your marks are gone. So you do have to be strategic about when you use these. And another issue with these is that the marks can reappear if the garment gets cold. So a Pilot rep who spoke to Jenny of The Quilt Skipper said that any temperature below freezing would cause this to happen. So in order to prevent this, you would have to remove the markings the same way you remove any ink markings using a specialized cleaning solution. So these are used at your own risk and for certain applications in sewing. It might not matter too much if you live in a warmer climate, but it would be awful to have your dart mark reappear when you go in a walk-in freezer at a supermarket or something. I love this analogy. When you work in a kitchen and you’re going into the deep freeze all the time, this is not the pen for you.
Caroline: I feel like it would be a great conversation starter though.
Helen: It’s true. And like, you know, if the dart marks reappear usually they’re on the wrong side of the fabric. You probably won’t see them anyways. But again, it’s all about where you’re putting these markings.
Caroline: Yeah, definitely. Okay. Another type of fabric marker is air soluble marking pens, like the Dritz “The Fine Line” Air Erasable Marking Pen. So these work by reacting with the carbon dioxide in the air, so you don’t need to do anything to erase these. It’s difficult to tell beforehand how long these marks will stick around, so testing is, again, important, but Amazon reviewers gave a range from 10 minutes to 24 hours.
Helen: Yeah. I have one of these in my collection, and I have used it a few times. If I want to make a quick mark for something, it’s really handy. But I do find that they fade quite a bit in the first 10 minutes, and then there’s a bit of a mark for about a day, and then it fades away which is really cool and can work for a lot of applications.
Caroline: Yeah. That makes a lot of sense. I think that it could totally work if you’re, kind of, in the zone and just need to mark something before you take it over to your sewing machine. But if you’re marking in advance and you’re like me and it takes you weeks and weeks to finish a project, then probably not the best choice.
Helen: Yeah. Okay, so this next tool isn’t a fabric marker per se, but it works on the same principle: which is water soluble pencils. So water soluble pencils are similar to the markers in that the pigments are bound in a water soluble medium whereas regular colored pencils are bound in a waxy medium. So these come away with a wet cloth, and they’re best used in a firmly woven non-stretch fabric because it does take some pressure to make a mark with them. So if you’re going to be pushing hard down on your fabric, you don’t want to be doing that on something that has a loose weave or something that has some stretch to it.
Caroline: Awesome. Okay. All of these marking tools require testing and could potentially damage our projects. So can we talk about alternatives here?
Helen: Why are you so scared of marking tools, Caroline?
Caroline: I don’t know, Helen. It’s bringing up a lot of feelings for me.
Helen: Okay. There are tons of ways to mark without all these fancy gadgets, and these can be an, a more affordable option too because you don’t need to go out and purchase some specialty things. So this method is truly old school, and it’s kind of cool to know, and that’s: tailor’s tacks. Tailor’s tacks are a method of making marks on your fabric with just a needle and thread. And you can make them over top of the patterns, so you get super accurate marks.
Caroline: Yeah. So to make them, you take a thread that contrasts with your fabric and thread your needle. You want it to be a double thread, but with no knot at the end. Put your needle into the fabric, and draw it back up close to make a small stitch. And then put your needle back in where you started and come back up as if to make a backstitch, but don’t pull it tight. You want to leave a finger size loop on top instead. Then, you snip the loop at the top to leave a little fringed ponytail on the top of your fabric, and that’s your marking. So if you’re going through two layers of fabric, you can pull the layers apart and snip the thread between them, and then you’ll have tacks on both layers.
Helen: Yes. We’ll put some images of this in our show notes, of course. They do look like little ponytails sticking off either side of the fabric, like little fringe. And because you’re trimming on top of your pattern, you can just pull the pattern piece off after. It comes loose because the threads are in the fabric. And these are so easy to remove when you’re done with them. You just pull the threads from the fabric, and there’s nothing left. They also have the benefit of marking both sides of the fabric at the same time. Or if you’re cutting two layers of fabric at once, which we often are, you can actually pull it apart and have some of your tailor’s tacks on one side and some on the other. So there’s strategic ways to go about using these. The disadvantage of these is that they might take a little longer to do than other methods. After you get used to it, though, it will barely take longer than placing a pin or using another marking tool. There is also the risk of the threads pulling out if you handle the fabric piece a lot before you’re sewing it, or if it’s a looser weave. Of course, we’re talking about, like, a two- to three-inch long piece of thread, so it could easily come loose and, and end up somewhere else. But in general, I find that, when I’ve used these, that they don’t actually come loose as much as you think they might.
Caroline: Yeah, and you can also, kind of, tie a really loose knot at the end of the ponytail, just to, like, keep it in place so that it won’t just get fully pulled out by accident. Just make sure you don’t tie that knot tightly to, like, pucker your fabric or anything.
Helen: Yeah, that’s true. I think that this is a great tool to have in people’s arsenal. Like, if you just thread a needle and thread, when you’re working on cutting out your project, you can experiment with using tailor tacks, see if you like it, maybe you like it better than marking tools, and then, you can go from there.
Caroline: Yeah. Okay, you can also make basting stitches wherever you need to mark your fabric. So basting stitches are great for when you want the marking to stay around for a long time. So to make these, thread a hand sewing needle with a thread that contrasts with your fabric. Sew long stitches, and leave longish thread tails. And then, you can stitch on, or right next to, your basting stitches. And when you’re done, you can just pull the basting stitches out. So this method like tailor’s tacks truly leaves no marks, and it marks both sides of the fabric at once. I think the risk is that the threads could pull out with handling. It might take a bit longer if you’re not very comfortable with hand sewing, but both of these methods, the tailor’s tack and the basting, are really great uses for the end of your thread spool, if you’re trying to use up thread. So I think that they’re definitely worth mentioning.
Helen: Yeah. I used the spacing stitch method recently because I’m working on an embroidery project, and I marked out the front panel piece of our March dress pattern with my chalk. But then I thought, Oh, this chalk’s not going to last; it’s going to rub off, especially because I’m handling it so much, and I’m embroidering it. So I went through and I basted it all around my chalk marking, and then I also basted it all around where the seam allowance was so that I wouldn’t accidentally embroider inside the seams. And I’ve been working on it for over a month; it’s taking me a while to embroider this piece. So it’s been great because these stitches are not going anywhere, and they clearly mark everything so I can see it, and they don’t disappear. So this was an instance where basting stitches was the right marking tool.
Caroline: That makes so much sense. What a great hack.
Helen: Okay. Another marking tool that doesn’t use pigment is the Clover Hera Marker. And this is, kind of, a plastic scoring tool. So to use it, you put your fabric on a hard surface and you drag the tool along the fabric to mark it. It reminds me of, like, a pastry cutter or, you know, you could just use, like, a credit card for something like this, too. And what’s great about the Hera Marker is that it’s simple, it’s low tech, it’s reusable indefinitely, and it will make a crease that’s visible on both sides of the fabric.
Caroline: Yes. The disadvantage of the Hera Marker is that some might find it difficult to see the markings, and it’s only going to work on certain fabrics. Fabrics that crease, like linen and cotton, are going to work well, but I don’t think it would work well on poly or, like, a nylon swim fabric, for example. So more for natural fibers, not so much synthetics.
Helen: Yeah, I’ve seen a few quilters using this in the quilting videos that I’ve been watching recently on YouTube. It does seem like a great tool to have in your arsenal for those quick markings.
Caroline: Oh, yeah.
Helen: Okay, let’s finish off our list of marking tools with some that are truly simple and low cost. You can use regular pencils and pens for marking. The most convenient marking tool is just whatever you have on hand. If you use these, you want to make sure that you only mark inside the seam allowance because you can’t really remove regular pen and pencil marks as easily from your fabric. But if you just need to mark on parts that are going to be inside the garment or end up trimmed away, this is a great option. You can mark things like notches, or you can make a little right side, wrong side marking just on the edge of your piece. It’s also great when working with muslins. If you’re doing a test version, if you’re not going to be wearing it out, you can just use markers. I’ve used Sharpies on my muslins many times.
Caroline: That’s one of the fun things about muslins is that you can just draw all over them and not worry and just not have to test. It’s great.
Caroline: Okay. The other kind of household item that you’ll probably have around that you can use as a marking tool is soap. So this is a cheap or free way to make marks on your clothing. You can just use a bar of white soap. Hotel soaps are great for this because there are, like, the slivers at the end of the soap bar. Just make sure to use this only on washable fabrics because obviously soap will wash away no problem, but you need to be able to wash it.
Helen: It’s true. And if something bad happens using a pencil or soap, you can’t come crying to us cause we told you to test. Okay. Okay. Okay. Okay. That finishes our very long list of marking tools. There are so many, so thank you for bearing with us. Now we’re going to discuss some marking tips for when you’re actually going through the process of marking your fabric.
Caroline: Let’s do it. Okay. Transferring markings from a pattern comes with the challenge of making the markings accurate, right? So you have several options for how to do this. You can insert a pin through the pattern and then carefully tear the pattern over the pin. I do this. And it works okay. It’s a little bit stressful though because you have to be really careful when you’re pulling the paper over the pin that you don’t rip it too much and that you don’t move the pin, but when you get used to it, it’s pretty straightforward. You can also fold the pattern piece back to where the marking is and mark right next to it. So find your marking, maybe put your finger there, kind of fold it away so that you can get to the fabric, and just mark directly onto the fabric. You can cut a hole in the pattern or poke through it with a tailor’s awl, for example, and make a marking through that hole. This is really great. If you have that cardstock where you’re working with a pattern that’s maybe a TNT and you use again and again, you can just prep all of your holes and markings on the papers so that it’s really easy to just stick your marking tool through the hole and make your markings as you go. You can also do tailor’s tacks through the pattern and fabric and just snip the loop so that the pattern pulls free. And the other way you can do it is use a tracing wheel and dressmaker’s carbon paper.
Helen: Yes, I love all of these suggestions. I’m a big fan of the folding the pattern piece back to where the marking is and just marking right next to it. But of course you have to be careful not to jostle your pattern piece too much. So once you get used to this, like you said, it does get a bit easier, but for beginner sewists, I think, there’s a lot of things going on, and you want to make sure everything’s, like, straight and perfect, and it can be a bit stressful to start moving things around like that.
Caroline: Yeah, and you always want to make these markings on a flat surface. Um, like, I’m thinking if you forget to make a marking and then you’re, like, sitting at your sewing machine, don’t just put it on your lap and try to figure it out, sort of, on the fly. You really need a flat surface that you can make sure that you’re lining up your pattern piece correctly and that nothing is, sort of, warping, especially when the fabric pieces are already cut, they’re really prone to kind of stretching and warping on the bias, so try to do it on a flat surface.
Helen: That’s a great tip. Okay. Here’s an issue that a lot of sewists face when they’re using marking tools: how do you get a sharp, clean line?
Caroline: That is a good question. So if you’re using a tightly woven fabric, maybe medium or heavyweight thickness, and you’re marking on the grain, you’re going to be able to make marks really easily. So these fabrics are best for marking tools that require some pressure to make a mark, like a tailor’s chalk or pencils or soap. If you’re using a more loosely woven fabric, or maybe one with stretch, or if you’re marking on the bias, you want to be a bit more mindful of how you mark. So one option is to use a marking tool that glides really smoothly, like our favorite chaco liner pens, markers, or a tracing wheel with carbon paper. But if you’d rather use a marking tool that takes more pressure, you can put a ruler or your hand down along the part you need to mark, kind of press down firmly, and mark close by the ruler or the edge of your hand. So this is going to keep the fabric from stretching out and allow you to use enough pressure to make a good mark. Our final tip to make sharp clean lines is to keep your marking tools fresh. So sharpen your pencils or chalk because blunt tools are going to leave more of a haze than a clean lin, and make sure you replace pens as they’re running out of ink.
Helen: Yes, I realized this once because I had some old fabric pencils that were in, like, my mom’s sewing kit or something. I can’t remember where they came from, but they weren’t working, and I found them so annoying. And then I sharpened it one day because it snapped, and it was so much better, like, I think there was just, like, a residue of, like, years of container gunk, like, over the chalk. And so it wasn’t really functioning, but when I gave it a fresh cut, it was like new chalk.
Caroline: It’s so true. That’s definitely happened to me before with older tools, like giving it a good sharpen can really do wonders. And also just some marking tools, I think, just don’t work on certain fabrics. So if you have one that’s not showing up, it could just be because that tool or that particular, you know, marking tool that you’ve picked out is just not a good match.
Helen: Yeah, it’s true. Okay, I’m sure this has happened to most of us before. You’re in the middle of sewing a garment and the pattern references a marking that you forgot to make when you’re cutting it out. How do you go back and make that marking? Caroline, I know you just gave a great tip about doing it on a flat surface. You can grab your pattern piece, you can put your project on the flat surface, and you can make that marking. Or you can also measure the distance from say the notch to the nearest seam on the pattern, and then measure that distance on the garment piece as well. And sometimes this can be extra challenging because if you’ve already started the construction process, you might have to consider seam allowance and things like that when you’re measuring your garment, but just do the best you can to get that marking. And then in some cases I will say, even as a pattern designer, that marking might not be as crucial as you think it is. So just evaluate the situation and think, do I really need this marking for this pocket placement? Or could I just put my garment down on the table and figure out where I want to put the pocket?
Caroline: Yeah, it’s so true. And I have another little extra tip for, if you’re laying that pattern piece over your fabric piece, like on a table, like we mentioned earlier, is that if you’ve started to sew your garment already, make sure that you’re accounting for the seam allowance of the parts that you’ve already sewn. So if you’ve already sewn a side seam, for example, you’re not going to line up the pattern piece right at that stitch line. You need to, kind of, overlap it over the stitch line to account for the seam allowance so that you’re making sure that you’re getting an accurate marking. So just keep that in mind.
Helen: And we mentioned this at the top of the episode, but it bears repeating because it’s such a good tip. When you’re working with fabrics that don’t have an obvious right and wrong side, you can use a marking tool to mark the right side of your pattern pieces. And this helps you to avoid making annoying mistakes, like sewing the right side to the wrong side, or having to tear out your work. Maybe you’re working with a pattern where you have to sew the wrong side to the right side at some point, and it’s not your usual construction methods. You want to make sure that you don’t make that mistake. You can also mark front and back pieces if they look similar. So using a marking tool for this is great. However, we talked about how many of them disappear quite quickly, so if you are doing this, you might want to use a marking tool that’s going to stick around a little bit longer. Or you could use something else, like some washi tape or something that will just, like, peel off when you’re done with it. Again, you should always test these things with delicate fabric, but I think that I’ve seen washi tape used many times for this, and it seems to be a favorite.
Caroline: Yeah, or, like, painter’s tape because that comes off really easily and shouldn’t leave a residue, but I’m not going to say it again, but I think, you know what I’m going to say.
Helen: I know, I know.
Caroline: Okay. We have a tip from Threads as well, and that is to color code your marking. If you have more than one color or more than one marking tool, you can use different colors to mark your darts and pocket placements, for example. So kind of color coding it so you, sort of, know what the marking is for.
Helen: Yeah, sometimes in patterns a lot of marking is going on, and then you go back to sew it and you’re like, I don’t know, which is which, so color coding could come in really handy. And if you’re using a marking wheel and carbon paper on the same pattern over and over, or if you’re using it on a tissue paper pattern, the perforations can cause the pattern to start to come apart over time. So Melly Sews recommends reinforcing the lines with tape before you punch through with your marking wheel. I love this. I remember when I was using carbon paper more often, I was also using tissue patterns more often, and it was an issue. If you start making those dart markings, like, it won’t be long before you’ve completely cut out that little triangle of dart.
Caroline: Yeah, that’s such a good tip and such an easy fix just to place tape on those areas to reinforce them. And one thing that’s worth mentioning as well, is that for notches, you don’t necessarily have to use a marking tool. You can just snip a quarter inch into your seam allowance instead of using a marking tool, just to indicate where you have notches.
Helen: Yeah. That’s my preferred way to do it for sure. Okay. There’s so much to know about marking tools, obviously, but don’t let this overwhelm you. Just pick one, test it. And if it works, go ahead and keep using it. There are marking tools and methods for every budget and every situation out there. So we hope this episode gave you all the information you need to move forward and mark with confidence. Go forth, and make your mark.
Caroline: Mark my words, Helen.
Helen: Mark my words, Caroline.
Caroline: That’s it for today’s episode of Love to Sew. You can find me Caroline at blackbirdfabrics.com and Helen at helensclosetpatterns.com.
Helen: We’re recording in beautiful British Columbia, Canada, and you can get in touch with us and get links for everything we talked about in this episode at lovetosewpodcast.com.
Caroline: And if you’re loving the show and you want to help us out, you can support us on Patreon. Contribute $5 or more a month and you’ll get access to our bonus episode feed where you will find out what I got Helen for her birthday.
Caroline: And contribute $10 or more a month and you will get a 15% discount code for both of our shops which basically pays for itself and a bonus mini episode. Go to patreon.com/lovetosew for more info.
Helen: And don’t forget all of our podcast’s merchandise is on sale the week this episode comes out. For 25% off, you can go to lovetosewshop.com to check that out. And thanks to our amazing podcast team. And thank you so much for listening. We’ll talk to you next week.
Caroline: Dritz actually sells a chalk cartridge set where you can insert a chall-. Oh my God. I’m sorry. I can’t read it right.
How to wind the line on a reel
Beginner fishermen will surely fill a lot of cones, until they comprehend all the secrets of how to equip a fishing rod or spinning rod. One of the first questions that will have to be answered is: “how to wind the line on the reel?”
It is very important to tie the line to the spool correctly. The simplest solution is if someone else does it for you. You can take care of this in the store when buying a fishing line. But not all stores have a line winding device.
If the winding of the line on the reel of the fishing rod was initially done incorrectly, then rest assured, the fishing will be ruined. Another reason to ruin fishing is to reel in old and unreliable fishing line, which will break at the most inopportune moment.
How, where and how much
There are questions, answering which everything will become clear.
How much line to wind up
The winding of the line on the reel should not reach the edge of 1-1.5 millimeters, so as not to fall off.But the distance can increase to 2 – 2.5 mm, it depends on the design of the reel, its quality and the diameter of the line. Therefore, sometimes, if there is a constant dumping of the line, simply increase the distance to the edge by 0.5 mm, perhaps this will solve the problem.
How tight to wind
When winding a monofilament or braid, it is necessary to observe the golden mean. It is not necessary to wind it with excessive effort, but it is especially important to wind it loosely. If you wind it hard, the line will end soon, it will break quickly.If you wind it weakly, the top layer of the fishing line will cut into the rest of the layers when casting with the bait – you cannot avoid the “beard”.
Although if you don’t mind the line, you can wind it tight.
Direction of unwinding
The line should be wound on the spool in the same direction as on the spool. Do not rewind in the opposite direction.
How to rewind a cord from a reel without a special machine
For correct winding, you need to conveniently position the reel from which you will unwind.To prevent this reel from spinning, it must be fixed. Ideal if you place it on a pencil or screwdriver wrapped in adhesive tape. Give the pencil to the assistant. The reel should be in the same plane with the reel, the line twists less. After rewinding, close the bail of the tree stacker.
Using a pencil
In general, there are many ways to secure the reel. Someone pinches their toes, some use a drill to wind up properly.
If you twist without an assistant, the winding of the line on the reel is often twisted, so you must constantly turn the reel over and make sure that there is no twisting.When twisting the line, there will be “beards” when casting. Winding tightness can be controlled by pinching the line with your fingers in front of the spool. Only the fishing line must be held with foam rubber or a rag, someone simply puts on a rag glove. Otherwise, you will cut your fingers or the grease from your fingers will fall on the fishing line, which is also unacceptable if it is sinking. This is true in match fishing.
How to tie
You can tie the line to the spool using one of the nodes. High-quality reels have a special stopper, for which you can simply fill in the line.In general, you choose how to tie the line to the reel to your liking.
You need to know that in nature there is such a device as a rewinding machine. With its help, the line can be wound onto the reel easily and easily. One drawback is the cost of this device is impressive. But our craftsmen make such machines with their own hands.
The video shows how such a device works:
There are several types of coils.Therefore, you can consider how to reel on a particular view.
- On multiplier reels, it is impossible to simply change the spool to which the line or braid has been threaded in advance.
- On inertial spools, everyone is different, so this operation will not work either.
- It is quite possible to put on another spool with a braid on the inertialess ones.
The inertial, ordinary “meat grinder” fits about 100 meters, so if you buy a line in a reel of 100 m, it is calculated that it will just fit in completely.
For a spinning rod or a feeder, where there are guide rings, the line is wound on the “meat grinder” directly on the assembled rod. If you put on a reel with coiled line, then you will catch “beards” when casting. Therefore, it is necessary to unfold the spinning rod and thread the line through all the guiding rings. Start with the smallest ring. Fold back the bail of the line tree. Then secure the line to the spool, tie it in a knot or for a stopper. First, make a few turns evenly by hand, then start turning the “meat grinder” handle.The line will be wound.
Often the “meat grinder” flaws are to blame for the fact that the line was wound on the reel incorrectly. If you bought a not very successful “meat grinder”, humps may form, a dip will appear at the front side, or there will be a reverse cone. When wound correctly, the line should lie flat, like on a spool of thread.
Everyone knows that a baitcasting reel is a kind of inertial reel. It is very important to use the correct line thickness for this particular model.
Watch the video of how fluorocarbon is wound on a baitcasting reel:
Some fishermen make the mistake of tying braid or monofilament to a baitcasting reel. They pass it through the far holes in the spool, which leads to braking. It is necessary to tie only for the holes that are close. The line should be loaded into the baitcasting reel as follows:
- Tie the line with any knot.
- Insert the spool onto the spinning rod and pass the braid through the right ring.
- Tighten clutch and axle brake.
- Use your fingers and a cloth to control the line tension.
Line thickness must be the same as indicated on the spool. If the thickness of the braid or monofilament is thicker, it will be very difficult to thread it. Smaller diameters will result in solid beards when casting. As a result, you will lose some of the braid or monofilament. Each spinning reel is made not only for a specific line diameter, but also can accommodate a certain amount of braid or monofilament.These parameters are indicated in the coil passport. They are different for different manufacturers. So read the instructions carefully, translate it even if it is in Japanese.
Reputable manufacturers are constantly struggling with kinking. To do this, they improve the reel, namely the line guide roller. The better the coil manufacturer, the better the styling.
The line is wound on a spinning reel in a “cross” or “turn to turn”. This styling is very high quality.But do not forget that you do not need to fill the spool “to the eyeballs”. Leave 1-1.5 mm.
Leave 1-2 mm to the edge of the spool
When purchasing a spinning spool, you need to adjust the stacking profile. Profile adjustment is very important. There are three winding methods and they can be customized:
- Reverse taper.
- Straight taper.
The spinning reel has 4-6 spacer washers that can be used to adjust the styling. These washers are available in different thicknesses.
In the picture, the first option is a cylinder, the second option is a reverse cone. third – straight taper:
Reels with front and rear drag have different adjustments, they can be adjusted differently.
With front clutch
Washers – spacers are located on the axis where the spool mount is located. By inserting or removing the shims, you can adjust the spool height. Straight taper – higher spool fit. The reverse taper is lower. By default, the setting is cylindrical.
With rear clutch
Washers are located inside the spool. You have to spin the coil and you will see these washers. But with a rear clutch, a higher landing will give a reverse taper, a low one – wind straight. The opposite is true. The adjustment will be different.
Watch the braid winding on a spinning reel in the video:
Quality filling of the spool
Often the spool holds more line than you have. In order for the reel to be completely filled, it is necessary to attach a reel under the fishing line.It can be an adhesive plaster or duct tape.
Another option is to reel in a lower quality line, which is called backing. The amount of backing is determined empirically. First you wind the main line, then the backing attached to it. Thus, you determine which piece of braiding you need. Then reverse the rewinding process to the spare spool. The final threading of the line into the reel begins with backing.
When using backing, the correct knot is very important when tying line to braid, or just line to line.
Backing made of fishing line, unlike electrical tape, dries faster and therefore does not rot. In addition, it is not possible to achieve accuracy in filling the spool with adhesive tape or tape.
Baitcasting reels used primarily for trolling have a built-in line counter. But such a device is not available in all models. Typically, the description indicates the equipment with a meter. When spinning the drum, the counter records how many meters have already been lowered or reeled up.Having determined empirically to what depth we need to lower the bait, you already clearly deliver it to the specified depth.
Previously, the meter was not used, as it simply did not exist. If there is no counter, then you can simply mark the line with a marker every meter or two. The problem with determining the depth is removed automatically.
Counter for trolling
Popular sign: If you dreamed that you went fishing, it means that you want changes in your life!
“Miracle of tanker Kolobanov”: feat and injustice
- Artem Krechetnikov
- BBC Russian service, Moscow
Photo author, RIA Novosti
KV-tank 1 in 1941 was the most powerful and invulnerable in the world
On August 20, 1941, five KV-1 tanks under the command of the company commander of the 1st tank division of the Leningrad Front, Senior Lieutenant Zinovy Kolobanov, saddled the highway near the Krasnogvardeysk-Voyskovitsy railway station 10 kilometers away south-west of Gatchina, the whole day they held back the advance of the 1st and 8th Panzer divisions of the Wehrmacht.
Having destroyed 43 enemy vehicles and used up their ammunition, they left for their own, having six wounded and not a single one killed.
Tank of Kolobanov himself knocked out 22 captured Czechoslovak Pz.kprw.35 (t), of which 14 were beyond repair.
Specific figures are disputed in some publications, since the German archives do not contain any mention of the tank pogrom on 20 August. It is only known that the total losses of the two divisions from the beginning of the war to September 10 amounted to 121 tanks.
But the fact that there was a battle, and after it the German offensive in this sector of the front drowned out, is beyond doubt.
Soviet troops left Krasnogvardeysk only on 13 September. The head of the local department of the NKVD Fedorov, who on August 20 panicked and ordered to blow up industrial facilities, was shot for this.
Against the background of huge losses and chaotic retreat in the summer of 1941, the battle at Krasnogvardeisk looked like a miracle.
On the eve of the Day of the Tanker on September 8, 1983, a monument in the form of a tank on a pedestal was erected in its place – however, not a KV, but a later IS-2.Kolobanov took part in the ceremony.
But he did not become a popularly famous war hero.
Soviet KV and T-34 tanks, put into service on the same day, December 19, 1939, far outstripped everything in service with other armies in the world.
They were the brainchild of the head of the Red Army’s Armored Directorate, Dmitry Pavlov, who learned from the experience of fighting in Spain the confidence in the need to create diesel tanks with anti-cannon armor and long-barreled guns.
The car was developed in Leningrad by the designers Afanasy Ermolaev and Nikolai Dukhov. It was first produced at the Kirov plant, and after the outbreak of the war in Chelyabinsk, at an enterprise that received the unofficial name “Tankograd” and became the main manufacturer of Soviet and Russian armored vehicles.
KV, named after the People’s Commissar of Defense Kliment Voroshilov, was intended not for oncoming tank duels, but for breaking through fortified lines.
He was not an “ultimate weapon” devoid of flaws.The creators sacrificed maneuverability and armament for security.
Kolobanov’s tank received 156 hits from German shells, which did not cause significant damage to it.
But the car was bulky, difficult to repair, barely overcame slopes, broke bridges underneath. The transmission, copied from the American model of 15 years ago, often failed. The 76mm cannon was too weak for a heavy tank.
After the appearance of the “tigers” at the Wehrmacht, the KV began to lose to them completely, and at the end of the war they were used as tractors with dismantled towers.The more dynamic and reliable T-34 became the main Soviet tank of the Great Patriotic War and the symbol of Victory.
But in 1941, the appearance of 48-ton monsters shocked the Germans, especially since the Abwehr completely overlooked the fact of their existence.
Only heavy howitzers and anti-aircraft guns exposed to direct fire could knock out the KV with its 75-mm armor.
“50mm and 37mm anti-tank guns were useless against Russian tanks,” Guderian pointed out.
The 37-mm Pak-36 anti-tank gun, the most widespread in the German army, was nicknamed the “door knocker” by soldiers after collisions with new Russian vehicles.
“About a hundred of our tanks took their initial positions. From three sides we fired at the iron Russian monsters, but it was all in vain. The Russians fired effectively,” Hans Reinhardt, commander of the Wehrmacht’s 41st Panzer Corps, recalled the first clash with the KV.
Published data refute the post-war myths about the “technical backwardness of the USSR”, “the overwhelming superiority of the enemy” and “history that gave us little time.”
In particular, the German invasion army numbered 3754 tanks, including 895 light tankettes, and the Red Army only in the border districts 15687 tanks. The T-34 and KV, which the Germans had no analogues in 1941, had 1225 and 636.
Of course, Kolobanov and his tankers were lucky with the terrain. In war, as in sports, records do not become massive. Nevertheless, if the USSR fought with KV alone, and each was used a quarter as effectively as Kolobanov’s car, the Germans would have no tanks left by the fall of 1941.
In reality, by July 10, the Red Army had lost 11,783 tanks, of which, according to available data on corps and divisions, no more than 15% in battles, and the rest for reasons like “out of fuel”, “bogged down in a swamp”, ” the fan drive has broken down and the clutch burned out.
Who is to blame?
Viktor Suvorov explained the defeat of the first year of the war with the catastrophic consequences of a surprise attack by the enemy on the Red Army, which at that moment itself was preparing for an attack.
Other authors, generally sharing his assessment of Stalin’s intentions, indicate that the losses from this blow were not critical, and the psychological shock should have passed in a few days, and see the main reason in the human factor, in particular, the unprofessionalism of most of the command staff …
Plus confusion from the fact that the war did not start as planned, fear of responsibility sowed by terror, the lack of a considerable number of soldiers and junior commanders of a special desire to lay their heads for the tyrannical regime and clearly miscalculated bosses.
“The Soviet marshals came up with a completely unique excuse for their failures: it turns out that even in 1942 they still did not know how to fight! The commanders of the fronts and armies, the chiefs of staff, with childlike spontaneity, report that they were just studying, looking closely at the enemy, accumulating experience”, – writes modern researcher Vladimir Beshanov.
Among the regimental commanders in the Wehrmacht, there was not a single one who had no experience of the First World War in the officer rank.
“The fact that we retreated far from the border and gave the enemy the opportunity to occupy and destroy Ukraine, Belarus, part of the Russian Federation, was the result of miscalculations and inept leadership.Many people who were entrusted with the case were rather primitive, “said Nikita Khrushchev, who, according to many historians of the war, should have included himself in this number in all fairness.
” Our commanders knew very little and knew the technique very little. Strong-willed qualities – initiative, the ability to take responsibility – are clearly not developed enough, “Marshal Georgy Zhukov pointed out in a letter to the head of the Main Personnel Directorate of the People’s Commissariat of Defense on August 22, 1944, when the war was already drawing to a close.
“The failures of the Soviet tank forces are explained not by the poor quality of weapons, but by the inability of the command and the lack of experience in maneuvering. The commanders are not able to solve operational tasks,” Yakov Dzhugashvili, the son of Stalin, testified in German captivity.
These reproaches did not apply to 30-year-old Kolobanov. He fought skillfully.
Arriving with his tankers at the site a day before the battle, he wisely chose the points that allowed shelling the road where it was surrounded by a swamp on both sides.
All night the crews were preparing: they dug out caponiers, checked weapons, marked landmarks, measured distances, camouflaged tanks.
When the German column appeared, the commander was in no hurry, but let her come closer.
But Vladimir Vysotsky, as if about him, sang: “My fate has long been dashing.”
It is not clear why a participant in the Finnish war, who served in the army since 1933 and graduated with honors from college, was only an elder in 1941.
If, say, the famous submariner Alexander Marinesko was famous for his rough character and irreverence, then Kolobanov was not seen in anything like that.
Krasnaya Zvezda journalist Arkady Pinchuk wrote that Kolobanov was allegedly promoted to the title of Hero of the Soviet Union and promoted for his participation in the breakthrough of Mannerheim’s line, but after the conclusion of peace on March 12, 1940, his soldiers fraternized with the Finns.
There is no confirmation of this story from other sources. But in the Central Archives of the Ministry of Defense in Podolsk, the original of Kolobanov’s submission to the Golden Star for the battle on August 20 is stored, signed by the commander of the 1st Panzer Division Viktor Baranov, on which no one knows who wrote in red pencil: “to the Order of the Red Banner of Battle.”
At the same time, senior sergeant Usov, who was loading the guns of the Kolobanov tank, received the Order of Lenin.
Less than a month later, on September 15, Kolobanov was wounded – not in battle, but by an accidentally flown projectile. But so that he was treated in Sverdlovsk until the very end of the war.
Rising to his feet, he again asked to join the army, served until 1958, but did not rise above the battalion commander.
In 1955, the hero was demoted from the GDR to Belarus, since his soldier fled to the West, and was fired immediately upon reaching seniority, after which he worked as an OTK foreman at a plant in Minsk.
The following episode testifies to how little known the feat of Kolobanov was. By the 30th anniversary of the Victory, the Belarusfilm studio was looking for subjects for documentary films. They went to the veteran, but the cinematographic bosses decided that the Red Army could not win victories in 1941, the old man must be composing, but they did not bother to check.
In 2011, the Ministry of Defense considered the initiative of public figures to posthumously confer the title of Hero of Russia on Zinovy Kolobanov as inexpedient.
There is a difference in the computer game “World of Tanks” – “Kolobanov’s medal”, which is received by a player who single-handedly destroyed five or more enemy tanks. Maybe in the 21st century this is the best way to perpetuate memory?
What do we magnify?
Who will become famous and who will not, for the most part, depended on whether the correspondent of Pravda or Krasnaya Zvezda was in the right place at the right time.
But it can be assumed that the matter is not only in the personal bad luck of Zinovy Kolobanov.
The highest merit of a warrior is not to die, but to win, stay alive and continue to beat the enemy.
However, in the USSR, both during the war and after it, little was raised on the shield of those who fought with skill, effectively used technique, showed ingenuity and resourcefulness.
Perhaps the only exceptions are the air aces Pokryshkin and Kozhedub. The best snipers, tankers, anti-aircraft gunners, submariners are known mainly to amateurs of military history.
Zoya Kosmodemyanskaya, Alexander Matrosov and Nikolai Gastello, who sacrificed themselves selflessly, but practically uselessly, became the main poster heroes and role models after whom the streets are named, and the names are known to everyone from childhood.
Let’s talk about the clutch, carbon clutch discs
Published: May 24, 2017
We often forget about the really important things, but get hung up on all sorts of nonsense (small play, heavy coil, etc.) Today we will talk about brake discs , ratchet, etc. Previously, I somehow did not attach much importance to this, it works and works. But over time I realized that something was wrong. Finally I was convinced of this, when a large fish sat down for me, exhausted 20 meters cord, the clutch seemed to work, but somehow hard and with slippage, only the unbuttoned fastener remained, and the grandfather’s spinner left along with the fish.I realized that the felt discs in my twin should be replaced with carbon ones. Those who fish 02 Twinpower 3000PG understand what normal clutch operation is, because there is carbon, and the reel is 2002. Well, let’s talk in more detail.
1. Clutch, clutch load, etc.
Clutch is a very important thing, especially if you are catching large fish, and not perch in your finger (you can not bathe there at all)))) If everything works without jamming, it is soft, easy, then it will be easier to fish out large fish.Good performance depends on the material of the brake discs, their diameter, the bobbin assembly, the presence of bearings in the spool and under the spool of grease used for the discs. Everything works most correctly in Dive, if you put carbon, then it is generally super.
I am often asked: “ Can you take this reel, does it have more load on the friction? ” To be honest, I’m tired of answering this question. The maximum load on the friction (indicated in kg) is the load at which the tightened friction unwind, that’s all.This is not a traction characteristic, some people think that this is the maximum fish that can be pulled out. People even get serious trophies in 1000s, you just need to be able to handle the tackle, and not pull the reel like a winch, why a rod and friction.
1. Shimano clutch discs.
Many have noted that the clutch discs do not work quite correctly. I am often asked: “Why does the clutch work so hard?”Moreover, he likes to fall asleep in open bearings (he wrote about this more than once in previous articles), respectively, the bearing begins to wedge, this will affect the operation of other units. Plus, the disks are small, look at the diving ones (they seem gigantic). Looking at the spool, they ask The disks are larger, but the Japanese put in a small size, probably they do not want to be like Dive. The lubricant itself also matters, at the factory they usually give DG-01, which in itself is quite tough, hence the work is tough.I looked at how the Japanese are doing and I didn’t see something DG there especially. It also matters whether the spool rotates on bearings. On Nazca ultegras, everything works in oak, because there are no bearings, neither under the spool nor in the spool. In Shimano, carbon fiber ones are asked. disks based on the above. But why the Japanese still use this lousy felt. The answer is very simple: “ Carbon is very expensive and even if you buy a lot, it will still come out much more expensive than felt or something else + with a good cabon nothing will happen, you don’t sell too much for spare. ” By the way, on the same 02 twin 3000 PG there is a cheap, shitty carbon.Well, let’s hope that Shimano will somehow solve this problem.
2.Brake discs for clutch Daiwa
It’s the opposite here. As they say: “The clutch sings, fine tuning, etc., etc.” , which does not crumble and does not exfoliate (except for very cheap nonsense ones), are lubricated with soft grease. Everything is fine here, the same 04 Serteate works without problems despite the fact that the spool rotates on metal bushings, even years later.In this regard, Daiwa is much better than Shimano.
Many are still surprised that spare parts for Daiva are much more expensive than Shimanov’s, and more expensive because the material from which they are made is better, the design is another matter. with metal discs), but they stand, there is truth separately (Carbontex). The ratchet is also good and works perfectly, only on old models like presso it is not successful, quiet (the spring often bursts) It is upsetting that Daiwa began to put shitty felt discs like Shimano.
Carbon (carbon) is a composite material It belongs to the class of carbon plastics – materials that combine several thousand different formulations. All these materials have one thing in common – they are filled with carbon (graphite) particles and fibers. Carbon fibers are based on carbon threads (carbon is, for example, a pencil lead). Only such threads are quite thin. It is easy to break it, but it is not easy to break it. Fabrics are sewn from them, where carbon threads are fastened parallel to each other.Carbon is far from being new.
It is used not only in reels, but also in bicycles, motorcycles, cars, etc. The material is ideal for brake discs. They serve for a very long time. Work on carbon is completely different, there is no jamming, slipping. Everything works clearly, smoothly, it works as quickly as possible. This is especially noticeable when the fish makes sharp powerful jerks. If there are carbon discs, then you will have much more chances to cope with a good trophy. I would also like to say that carbon is not carbon, a good one costs a lot.We have already inserted high-quality handmade carbon wheels into some models, everything worked as it should.
Thank you for your attention
We draw conclusions!)
We will attach the forum soon !! It will be interesting !!)
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I will try to please you with interesting articles more often !.
Use the item for its intended purpose and it will delight you for many years.
Reelmaster introduces a new service – ” Checking the coil ”
You send us a coil, we check everything, let you know what is with it and send it back to you! So you can be sure that you have bought a good thing)
The service is completely free.)
Hurray !!! Launched the YouTube channel Reelmaster https://youtu.be/DUchZ8Hk2k0
Our store http://reelmaster.com.ua/shop
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SHVEJNIK / Spare parts for sewing machines / Spare parts catalog
Spare parts for sewing equipment are one of the most important components of long-term service and operation of any sewing machine.It should be understood that there are original spare parts for each machine and only with them your machine will work reliably and for a long time. Even the smallest details create comfort in work and greatly affect the mood of the master. Absolutely every spare part – engine, pulleys, clutches, etc. – differs depending on the type of sewing equipment and the type of material that is dealt with in your production.
Clutches – a design designed to regulate the speed of an electric motor.
What is a friction drive? If you are driving a car, then you must know what a clutch is. So, the sewing drive friction clutch is similar.
The motor rotates continuously at the same speed. When you press the pedal, the friction device disc with textolite pads comes to the engine flywheel and interacts with it. The more firmly you press the clutch disc against the flywheel of the electric motor, the better their grip and the higher the speed. Therefore, sometimes from prolonged work at a slow speed, the smell of burnt textolite appears.
Servomotors are recommended for modern production.
Advantages of servo motors:
- High power can be obtained with small engine sizes
- Large power range
- Position tracking using feedback
- High torque in relation to inertia
- Fast acceleration and deceleration capability
- High speed, high torque
- Acceptable noise limit at high speeds
- Complete absence of resonance and vibration
- Positioning Accuracy
- Wide range of speed regulation.
- Accuracy of maintaining speed and stability of torque.
- Low motor moment of inertia, low weight, compact dimensions.
If you are looking for a machine for mass sewing, then immediately think of a good suitable drive. Indeed, in this case, the sewing engine of an industrial machine must work around the clock without interruption, and not overheat and without losing speed, for which, in fact, the engine of a household sewing machine is not suitable.
Do not forget to pay attention to the pulley installed on the clutches and servomotors of industrial sewing machines and use in tandem with a V-belt.By the way, you can choose high-quality and reliable pulleys, clutches and engines in our online store Shvejnik.com.ua from trusted manufacturers.
You will find a wide range of such spare parts for sewing equipment on our website Shvejnik.com.ua. In the assortment of our store, you can purchase not only high-quality, reliable and original equipment and spare parts, but also get full advice on the operation of any sewing equipment. If you have any difficulties with the choice or need to obtain additional information, please contact us at the indicated phone numbers or e-mail.In the Shvejnik.com.ua catalog you can choose the best solution from the leaders of the world market. And do not forget, we strongly recommend that you choose exclusively original spare parts for your sewing equipment in order to continue the high-quality operation of machines in production.
How to equip a spinning rod for beginners in 5 simple steps
This spinning rod equipping instruction is suitable for any type of spinning rod – jig, ultralight, microjig and mormishing. All elements are identical, you just need to choose the tackle suitable for your purpose.In the example of a spinning rod shown below, you can fish for pike, perch and zander.
In order to equip (put together all the elements of tackle and equipment) a spinning rod for the first fishing you will need:
- spinning rod
- spinning reel
- braided line
- bait (for example, spinning spoon or wobbler).
There are two types of spinning rods: plug and telescopic.When it comes to a plug rod, you just need to insert the thinner part of the plug into the thicker one. Make sure that all rings are on the same straight line. If you have a telescopic spinning rod, then simply unfold it starting from the tip (the smallest pass ring), gradually moving towards the thicker knees with large rings. Also make sure all rings are in an even row.
Adjustment with washers
But, not the ones we use with bolts and nuts, but very similar.Based on the above, our task is to get an inverse cone. With which there will be the least loops and “beards”, in most cases there will be none at all.
The essence of the washer adjustment is, in essence, very simple:
- Take a spool and follow the standard procedure for winding the braid onto the spool.
- We look at the resulting winding profile. If, after winding, we have a light reverse cone, then we leave everything as it is.
- When the profile is far from the inverse taper, you need to try to change it using the washers located under the spool.Usually, it is enough to remove the washer or replace it with a thinner one and you will get an inverse taper. But, it often happens that this cone is too steep and this is bad. Then, the shim should be thinner. This can be cut from plastic, which is used in boxes for wobblers and lures. It is just a little thinner than the standard washer that comes with the spinning reel.
In some coil models, there are spare washers already in the box specifically for adjustment.Moreover, they are different in thickness. If you bought just such an inertialess drive, then adjusting the winding profile will be a little easier and faster.
After all these manipulations with the adjustment, only real fishing will show whether we have correctly adjusted the winding profile. If during the whole fishing there was not a single beard or loop, then everything is normal, and if there were problems, you still need to work with the washers.
On any spinning rod there is a special lock, which you first need to unscrew, insert the handle of the reel, and then tighten.Do not twist too tightly so that you can then easily unscrew the lock and remove the reel after fishing. Excessive pressure can strip the threads.
Adjusting the spinning coil clutch “to maximum”
We have already talked about tightening the clutch “to maximum” when the brake is felt to be set to the “subcritical” value. This value is directly related mainly to the strength of the line, and partly to the rod – therefore, it cannot be exceeded.But doing less is possible, and sometimes necessary. To better understand this issue, let’s see what and how the tightening of the brake affects.
To begin with, remember that the friction brake is an automatic safety system for our tackle. Sometimes, even under unplanned extreme loads – for example, catching on bushes during a sharp cast – a triggered friction clutch will help to avoid rod or reel breakage. Therefore, some firms specifically do so that this mechanism does not drag out to the end – “for every fireman.”
Attaching the line to the spool
In order to attach the line to the spool, you need to attach it to the spool. This is done as follows.
- Open the line package.
- Find the end of the line and thread it through all the rings from the smallest (top) to the largest.
- Tie the line to the spool with a self-tightening loop, to do this: remove the spool by pressing the button at the top of it, and then tie the loop as shown in the image below.
Note that the loop tightens when pulling the line to one side and stretches when pulling in the opposite direction. Observe which way your line finder is turning when the spool handle is turned, and position the loop on the spool so that it tightens as the spool turns.
Fold out the bail of the line guide on the spool. Insert the bobbin back in its place. Now you can close this bow. The line is secured.
Start winding the line onto the spool, but take care that the line reel does not unwind too freely.You can put it between your knees and slightly hold her to rotate. Thus, during the winding of the fishing line on the spool, it will lay down in a dense layer and not create unnecessarily large turns, which, over time, could deform under more densely laid turns on top. But also do not wind the line too tightly, from such deformation it can also deteriorate over time.
Wind the line around the spool until the distance from the end of the spool to the line of the last layer of line is slightly less than 0.5 mm. It may seem to you that you need too much fishing line for this, but this is a necessary measure if the ability to make long casts with light lures is important to you. If the fishing line is wound almost to the edge, nothing will interfere with it while flying off the reel during casting, it freely flew off the reel, and did not experience excessive friction against the edges of the spool.
Insufficient braid winding. The bait will fly close.
Sufficient winding. The baits will easily fly long distances.
This geometry is common on almost all reels after purchase, as it is considered universal. The risk of creating beards is minimized, friction against the side of the spool is low, as is friction when de-scaffolding. If the manufacturer’s markings cannot be found, the winding gap is no more than one and a half millimeters.
Cylindrical placement is considered the best for feeder rigs when the weight of the feeders is in the range of 40-180 g. Also suitable for match fishing, provided that the bait is cast over short or medium distances.It has proven itself well in spinning.
In this case, one should pay attention to such parameters as the method of winding the scaffold, of which there are two – a turn to a turn or a cruciform. The first method receives criticism for the fact that the upper horizons of the thread often fall into the lower ones, and when casting, this causes difficulties, affecting the range. We mentioned this in the article “Tips for the angler on how to use a spinning reel”.
Also, you cannot ignore the recommendations of the manufacturers for the section of the scaffold that can be used on this reel model.If the diameter is too large, the whole thread will simply not fit on the spool; if it is small, it will lead to the formation of beards.
Friction brake setting
Friction brake is an important part of the spinning reel. It allows the fishing line not to break off under too strong loads: while playing large fish and its jerks, as well as if the angler hooked the bait to the snag.
In most spins, it is located on the front of the and looks like a round nut that can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise.When twisting clockwise, you tighten the friction brake, which means that an increased load on the line will be required so that it begins to bleed off the spool. You can completely release the friction brake by turning the handle counterclockwise. Having done this, you will notice that you only need to pull a little on the line coming out of the reel, as it easily begins to curl.
You need to find a balance between a sufficiently tight friction brake and a load between the bait and the rod tip that is sufficient to get the line off the reel.
Correct adjustment of the friction brake occurs when pulling the line not from the reel itself, but from the last ring (rod tip) at an angle of 90 degrees to it. This is necessary in order to take into account the friction of the guide ring, which is present in real spinning fishing.
Ask your friend or girlfriend to hold a pencil or pen on which to wind 10-15 turns of fishing line, so as not to cut your fingers, holding on to the bare fishing line. Step back a few meters and start pulling the spinning rod very strongly perpendicular to the direction of the line.If, at a critical load, it is the clutch that allows the line to reel, and the line does not break, then the clutch is set correctly.
It is possible to manufacture spinning reels for spinning with variable pitch, which is lowered to the side of the spool. In this case, the angle of convergence of the fishing line is slightly smaller than that of a straight cone, which will be discussed below. That is, the distant loops will rub less against the close ones.
At the reverse cone, the turns located closer to the body always have a smaller diameter, which minimizes the formation of beards and spontaneous descent of the line from the spool.However, the disadvantage of such winding is that the forest experiences more friction when it touches the side of the spool, and, as a result, the range of the tackle decreases by about 10-15 percent, depending on the angle of the cone itself, when compared with a straight cone.
Of the advantages of such winding of the scaffold – it is considered the safest, and even a beginner, making mistakes, can fearlessly throw rigs without fear of beard formation. In addition, spools with a similar geometry are now on sale. It is perfect for uneven routing when the scaffold is rewound with varying tension.
Polar taper grinders are labeled with the abbreviation ABS – Anti Backlash Sistem. Not to be confused with the Advanced Ballistic Sistem, a device capable of increasing the range of the tackle. Such reels serve for competent reeling of the same line, which will not come off by inertia, which often happens when fishing in the wind or with light baits.
How to tie the bait to the line
The rod and reel are fully equipped. It remains to attach the bait. For beginners, I recommend using the carabiner swivel.This is a small fishing accessory that allows you to quickly change lures from one to another. And the main purpose of the swivel is to prevent the line from twisting during casts, wiring and winding the reel on the spool. This will greatly extend the life of your fishing gear.
The most suitable knots for tying a bait or swivel with a carabiner are the Double Clinch, Greenner and American Knot. The double clinch is the simplest of these knots, however I do not recommend using it when tying line on winding rings.Many wobblers and some spoons, for example Castmaster, are equipped with winding rings, and this knot does not hold well on double wires or holes that are in the body of the bait. In these cases, use an American knot.
Knot Double Clinch
If you are using braid rather than monofilament line, which is more correct for spinning, you can try the knotless braid clasp. This is a small fishing element that allows you not to knot any knots and very firmly fix the bait on the braid.
What is a clutch for?
A friction brake is necessary to damp jerks, reducing the load on the line, which, accordingly, minimizes the possibility of breakage. It’s a shame when a pike makes a candle near the shore.
It is believed that with the correct adjustment of the clutch, thin line can be used without the risk of breaking it. This type of brake is acceptable for spinning reels, on which a large number of meters of line is wound, so that the friction can let the fish roam before it gets tired, and at the moment of rest, tighten it again – there is already someone who.
Types of clutch.
Most widespread among manufacturers, located on top, so when the spool is changed, the brake system is also replaced. Use this type on high-speed reels.
It turns out that the adjusted clutch of 3 kg suddenly turns into 4, 5. This brake has a self-tightening effect, i.e. when the adjusting nut relative to the spool begins to tighten, it increases the possibility of line breakage.
Located at the bottom of the housing, it is used more often on power coils where a pulling force of up to 0.5 per kilogram is required. But it is dangerous to use a thin line on such reels – when the brake is in a free position, it will contract too freely, and when it is tightened, the risk of tearing increases.
It is also possible to quickly change the clamping force – baitrunner. This is very convenient if you need to hop when biting or fishing.This system is most loved in carp fishing.
Which one to choose?
Each species has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, for example, reels with a front drag are more compact, lighter, which is good for spinning fishing, while for feeder and match fishing methods, preference is given to the rear brake system – it is much easier to make friends with it in work, you can change the tension force directly while fishing the catch.
The price range of spools is also important, so, for a spinning reel with a rear brake, the cost of this spare part is much cheaper than that of the front one.
Friction brake adjustment.
This is not as easy as it sounds. It is made with an adjusting screw – at the top at the front and at the bottom at the rear clutch. It is important not to over-tighten the brake as this can adversely affect the integrity of the rod as well as the reel itself.
It turns out that in this case there should be a subtlety or an experienced fisherman’s eye diamond, because if you tighten it poorly, the quality of the hook deteriorates, and if it is very good, the line break is likely.
Therefore, the tightening of the line must be done on the basis of 2/3 – 3/4 of the breaking load. You can gradually tighten the line by touch, i.e. gradually tightening the clutch, check the recoil force.
So, these are the main points regarding the brake system of the reel.
Great fishing everyone! You can find even more interesting things at this LINK. Also read: Selection of bottom tackle for carp fishing.
Which bait to equip the spinning rod
Here is a simple table that will help you easily choose between lures for fishing pike, perch, zander and asp.The information in the table is a guideline. Of course, you can catch any fish with any bait, but the question of expediency arises. The table will help you choose the most suitable bait for the fish you need.
|Bait / Predator||Pike||Perch||Pike perch||Asp|
| Turntables 905 905 905 905 9092 9092 Large 9092 905
| Long with short ponytail
|| Croatian yay tso
If you liked the article, then read the spinning guide for beginner anglers.I am sure you will find a lot of useful things for yourself.
How the variator works – DRIVE
Leafing through car catalogs, many met the following phrase: “A continuously variable variator is installed on the car.” Or you might see this phrase in the table of technical characteristics. Everyone knows what a manual transmission is (except, perhaps, the Americans), and everyone has long been accustomed to the automatic transmission (especially the Americans). But the variator is a little-known beast. But he is far from a novelty.
You will be surprised, but this invention does not belong to Honda and not even to Mercedes. The CVT patent was issued at the end of the 19th century! Moreover, the first variator was invented in 1490. Its author was the good-natured bearded man Leonardo da Vinci.
The first functional car with this type of transmission, however, did not appear in the Renaissance, but later, five hundred years later, in the 1950s. The variator was serially installed on DAF cars (at that time, not only trucks, but also cars were produced under this brand).Then they began to do something similar on Volvo, but CVTs are really widespread only now.
In fact, a variator (the most common English designation is CVT – continuously variable transmission) is, pardon the tautology, a variation on the theme of an automatic transmission. And the car equipped with it, at first glance, does not give itself out in anything – there are only two pedals and the lever for switching transmission modes – P, R, N, D – is the same as in a car with a traditional automatic transmission.Everything is familiar. But the variator works in a completely different way. There are no fixed first, second, tenth gears in it. Try to imagine how many stars there are in our Universe or how many grains of sand are on all the beaches of the Earth combined – the variator still has much more gears. And “switching” between them is smooth and imperceptible.
That is why there are no jerks when starting and “shifting”. And it’s not for nothing that we wrote this word in quotation marks: there are no switches as such. The variator continuously and smoothly changes the gear ratio as the vehicle accelerates or decelerates.
Variators are of several types: V-belt with variable-diameter pulleys, chain, toroidal … The first type is the most common. Let’s see how it works.
MINI V-belt variator.
Here is an illustrative example: take two pencils (cylinders) lying parallel at some distance from each other. We tighten them with an elastic band and start twisting one of them. The second one immediately starts spinning at the same speed. But if the pencils are of different diameters, a completely different story begins – while one of them, which is larger, makes one revolution, the second, say, two.
The variator is similar, only the diameter of the “pencils” is constantly changing. It has two pulleys, each of which is made in the form of a pair of cones facing each other with sharp ends. And a V-belt is clamped between the pulleys.
By changing the bending radius of the drive and driven pulley belt, you can smoothly change the gear ratio.
Now, if each of the pairs of cones can move towards each other and back, we get pulleys with a variable working diameter.Indeed, when the cones move apart, the belt, which is in contact with them with its ribs, will, as it were, fall through to the center of the pulley and run around it along a small radius. And when the cones approach, along a large radius.
It remains only to equip both pulleys with a system (as a rule, it is hydraulics, but there may be some other servo drive), which will strictly synchronously shift the halves of the first pulley and move the halves of the second. And if one pulley is on the drive shaft (which goes from the engine), and the second is on the driven shaft (which leads to the wheels), then it is possible to organize a change in the gear ratio over a very wide range.
It remains to add a unit responsible for changing the direction of rotation of the output shaft (for reverse), and this can be, say, a conventional planetary gear. And now the variator box is ready.
By the way, an interesting question – what kind of belt is used here? Of course, a simple belt made of rubber and fabric, like those that rotate generators and other attachments, would not have lived here even thousands of kilometers. The belts in V-belt variators have a complex structure.
The belt in variators, as you can see, is not a belt at all, but a type-setting metal tape.
This can be a steel tape with a certain coating or a set of steel cables (belts) of complex cross-section, on which a huge number of thin transverse trapezoidal steel plates are strung, the edges of which are in contact with the pulleys. By the way, it was in this way that it was possible to create a pushing belt that transmits power not only to the half of it that runs from the driven to the driving pulley, but also to the opposite one. An ordinary belt, when trying to transmit a compressive force, would simply fold, and a stacked steel belt would acquire rigidity.
And also a wide lamellar steel chain, which is in contact with the cones with its edges, can act as a V-belt. It is this “belt” that works in the variators of Audi cars.
This is the chain used in Audi CVTs.
Interestingly, a special fluid is used to lubricate the chain, which changes its phase state under strong pressure arising at the point of contact with the pulley. This allows the chain to transmit considerable force with little to no slippage despite the very small contact area.
How exactly the variator will change the gear ratio during acceleration depends on the selected control program. If, when accelerating in a conventional car, we spin the engine in each gear, then go to the next gear, and so on, then when a car with a variator gains speed, the engine remains at the same rpm (say, at rpm corresponding to the maximum torque), but the gear ratio changes smoothly.
This creates a somewhat strange feeling.We press the gas to the floor, the engine reaches high revs, and so it remains on them during the entire acceleration, howling like a vacuum cleaner. But the acceleration rate is high, and time is not wasted on switching between the steps.
However, in some cases, the variator is tuned so that acceleration with it is more like an increase in speed with a conventional gearbox, with a gradual increase in engine speed.
Of course, when you try to drive up a hill and when the car slows down, despite pressing the gas pedal, the smart variator will not leave the high gear “engaged”.The pulleys will quickly move back for a confident assault – to increase the torque out of the box.
And on some machines, you can select a mode with several “virtual” gears (with 6 or even 8), set by the electronics. Gears, between which the variator will jump sharply, like a classic automatic transmission. Even in this case, you can switch “gears” at will. As on the “automatic” with manual sequential (sequential) mode.
Thus, the CVT has a lot of advantages. But there are also disadvantages. For example, a relatively small, by modern standards, “digestible” engine power. It is not for nothing that such boxes began their march around the world on small cars. Even now, powerful cars – all of them are often equipped with either “mechanics”, or classic “automatic machines”, or robotic boxes.
True, progress is underway. And here one cannot but recall the record holders. For example, on the Audi A4 2.0 TFSI, the Multitronic V-belt variator (with chain) copes with a flow of 200 “horses” without any problems.
The Audi CVT can transmit over two hundred horsepower to the wheels.
One might argue that Class D is not everything. For executive and business class cars, and even more so for a large SUV – 200 forces can no longer be called such a great value. But the achievements of the most modern variators are not limited to this. So, the X-Tronic V-belt variator is installed on the Nissan Murano crossover with a 3.5-liter V6 with a capacity of 234 horsepower.This is one of the largest and heaviest models equipped with a CVT. And what will happen tomorrow?
The second disadvantage of CVTs is the relatively expensive maintenance and repairs, special, and therefore not cheap, transmission fluid. Belt variators may require belt replacement every 100-150 thousand kilometers. At the same time, oil costs a little more than for an “automatic” machine, but you can change it a little less often – approximately after 40-50 thousand kilometers for different car models.
Nevertheless, CVTs are becoming more and more widespread on machines of various classes, besides, they are usually cheaper than good “automatic machines” of the classical type.
Since CVTs have an infinite number of gears, they allow the engine to work in the most favorable modes – whether we need maximum power (at traffic light races), or, on the contrary, smoothness and lowest fuel consumption (with a quiet ride). Therefore, models with variators are distinguished, other things being equal, by high efficiency, combined with no less decent dynamics.
By the way, recently there has been a tendency towards an increase in the number of gears in classic “automatic machines”. In the latest models, there are already 8 gears (in a passenger car, note, a car). And this is done precisely to combine high dynamics and efficiency. Soon we will see machines with ten steps or even twelve? But variators are already in places where conventional automatic machines with their switchable planetary gear sets will never come. After all, the number of gears of the variator is infinite.