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👩‍🏫 11 Best Rolling Carts and Bags on Wheels for Teachers 🛒 (2021)

If you are a teacher floater and don’t have one designated classroom, you know how challenging it can be to make sure you are prepared for each class you teach. Teachers with a designed classroom have the luxury of having a desk, counter space, tables, bookshelves, and more where they can lay out and organize books, materials, students’ assignments, and anything else they need.

If you’re a floating teacher, you don’t have this luxury. You need to bring all the materials you’ll need for each group of students you see throughout your day with you.

A rolling cart is one of the best solutions to help keep you organized and prepared for each of your classes. They offer plenty of space for the materials you need and different sections and compartments to keep everything organized and easy to access. Plus, they’ll save your back and shoulders from trying to carry heavy stacks of books and papers around in your arms or in a bag or backpack.

I thought I’d share some of my picks for the best rolling cart. While doing my research for this article, I took a close look at about 30 different models. While many of the choices I looked at had their benefits, I settled on the products below as my top picks since they really stood out to me. Some of the picks that were not included in my list are Ikando Rolling Cart, Rol-Xtra 68900, and Everything Mary Rolling Craft Case.

In this article, I’ll share some more information about my favorite rolling carts for teachers to help you select the right one to meet your specific needs. Keep reading to discover my top picks and find the best rolling cart!

How a Rolling Cart Can Benefit Floating Teachers

Surviving as a floating teacher can definitely be a challenge. You don’t have your own classroom and need to move quickly between different rooms in the building and get set up quickly to teach.

However, with one of the best rolling carts, you can begin to realize more of the pleasures associated with being a floating teacher. There is no question being a floating teacher isn’t ideal, but there are a few advantages to consider:

For example, these include getting to know more people in the building as you travel from room to room and working more closely with other teachers that you may share a classroom with.

  • One of the biggest benefits of being a floating teacher is that you don’t have to prepare and decorate a classroom. This will not only save you the hours that go into putting up and maintaining bulletin boards, but it will also save you a lot of money that you may spend on decorations and other supplies.
  • With a rolling cart, you can make your own mini classroom on wheels. Organize the cart in a way that makes sense for the classes you teach. For example, you may have one section of the cart dedicated to holding materials for each class, or you may decide to keep worksheets and paper in one section, and supplies in another section. The beauty of a rolling cart is that you get to choose the system that works best for you.
  • If you’ll miss being able to decorate a classroom and make a welcoming environment for students, you could always add some decorations to your cart. Consider a theme, such as your favorite sports team or destination, or change up the decorations to match the seasons.

If you’re looking for more information about rolling carts and how they could benefit you, check out this video.

It highlights various features of rolling carts that you may want to look for. I also found this video to be useful since it really helps you see the size of the cart and its layout to help visualize how you could use it for teaching.

My Top Pick

Goodies I found:

  • Polyester fabric and stylish zippers
  • Reinforced handles and wheels
  • 47 separate storage spaces
  • Clear sections for easy searching

Best for: All of these rolling bags are good for carrying stuff, but this bag has the added bonus of attractive form as well as function.

Check price →

With 47 different storage spaces, this rolling organizer will help you find the perfect place for everything you need to bring with you from room to room. The rolling tote opens unzips to make it easy to see everything that is inside. Then, you can zip it back up for safe transport of all your belongings.

This is a durable option as well. The organizer has dual wheels, an interlocking telescoping handle, and reinforced side handles. The fabric used for this product is a durable 75D polyester. The overall dimensions of the organizer are 16 inches by 10.5 inches by 17.5 inches.

Also Great

Goodies I found:

  • Easy-to-pull telescoping handle
  • Front and side pockets
  • Space for a projector and laptop
  • For carrying classroom supplies

Best for: Teachers who carry a lot of electronic equipment as well as books and papers. It can also become a case for traveling art teachers.

Check price →

As its name suggests, the Crop In Style XXL is a large organizer that will provide you with plenty of space for everything you need for your students. The organizer is 20 inches wide, 20 inches high, and 16 inches deep. It includes a telescoping handle and a high-quality zipper to allow you to keep all your belongings organized and protected.

The main interior pocket is large, making this a great option if you have bulkier items you need to bring with you. This organizes also has a large pocket on the side with dividers that are perfect for organizing student work and other paperwork.

Also Great

Goodies I found:

  • Room for whatever you want
  • Large main compartment
  • Good quality parts
  • Durable and not too large to pull

Best for: Teachers who have to transport a lot of items back and forth from home to the classroom every day. This is the toughest bag on this list.

Check price →

The Husky Rolling Tote Bag is another great option to consider. This organizer is 18 inches long, 10 inches wide, and 17 inches tall. It has 18 total pockets (7 interior and 11 exteriors) to help you keep everything organized.

This is a high-quality option that is built to last. It features a reinforced bottom, heavy-duty telescoping handle, and heavy-duty straps. The bag zips closed as well allowing you to easily bring it home or tuck it in a corner for storage when you’re not in a classroom teaching.

Best rolling carts and bags for teachers:

  1. Husky Rolling Tool Tote Bag with Telescoping Handle →
  2. CROP IN STYLE 60001 XXL Rolling Tote →
  3. Deluxe Teal Geometric Rolling Papercraft Organizer →
  4. Copernicus School Classroom →
  5. Olympia Fashion Rolling Shopper Tote →
  6. Mount-it! Mesh Rolling Utility Cart →
  7. Smart Cart Moroccan Tile Collapsible Rolling Cart →
  8. Original Tubster 3-shelf Utility Cart →
  9. ECR4Kids 4-Tier Metal Rolling Utility Cart →
  10. Honey-Can-Do All-Purpose Rolling Activity Car →
  11. Oklahoma Sound Premium Presentation Cart →

With an eye to saving money, I tried several cheap rolling carts and learned the hard way that cheaper isn’t always the best option. In fact, it took me a long time of patching with duct tape and making do with my cheap selections until I realized I wasn’t saving money buying a new cheap one every year.

That’s why in this list you find only the best models. For your convenience, I’ve divided the picks I’ve used into 2 categories: Rolling Bags for Teachers and Teacher Cart with Wheels.

Rolling Bags for Teachers

Rolling bags are great option to consider for a floating teacher. These items can be worn as a shoulder bag or backpack or pulled as a cart. This gives them more versatility, which can let you decide the most comfortable way to transport your belongings depending on their weight and whether you need to walk up and down the stairs or outside with them.

1. Husky Roling Tool Tote Bag Telescoping Handle →

It finally dawned on me that I needed a durable, high-quality cart just like an electrician uses, such as a Husky 18-inch rolling tool tote with plenty of space and neat pockets. The handle is made for rough use and the wheels are designed to last for years. My advice to you is to spend a little extra on the Husky and save in the long run. Buying universal rolling carts is just like using a Band-Aid when you need a full cast. If you’re worried about the condition of your rolling bag or cart, you’re not getting the best use out of it. You need one that serves your needs, not one that you need to pamper.

Goodies I found:

  • Room for whatever you want to store and lots of pockets. I could organize everything I needed permanently, and always know where to find it.
  • It has a large main compartment that holds files without bending them, as well as books and notebooks. There are seemingly endless pockets with seven inside the cart and 11 outside. There’s also room for your lunch without squishing your sandwich.
  • Good quality parts. It has a heavy-duty, telescoping handle that pulls out smoothly. No more tugging. The wheels are also strong and maneuver easily.
  • Durable and not too large to pull. Goodbye cheap plastic, hello durable 600 denier Tuff, water-resistant material. Even with all the extra space, this cart has been designed to be user friendly. This cart takes care of you, not the other way around.

Watch this video to learn about this rolling tote. The review wasn’t made by a teacher, but it demonstrates all the capabilities of this bag.

Best for: Floating teachers who are always on the move, and teachers who have to transport a lot of items back and forth from home to classroom every day. This is the toughest bag in this list and my favorite, except for one which you’ll see in a minute.

2. CROP IN STYLE 60001 XXL Rolling Tote →

This is one of the best organizing tote bags you can find. It has a separate compartment for each type of item, and many of the dividers are clear so you can simply look at the contents and not dig around to find what you want. It has a large pocket for magazines where you can keep folders, workbooks, and students’ files where they won’t get bent or crumpled. The dividers are removable if you want to carry a large item. It has two wheels, so to roll it you’ll need to tilt it towards you.

Goodies I found:

  • Easy-to-pull telescoping handle
  • Front and side pockets good for carrying electrical cords
  • Space for a projector and laptop
  • It’s designed for arts and craft items and scrapbooking, so it’s be ideal for carrying classroom supplies.

Here’s a video that shows you what this bag looks like up close:

Best for: Teachers who carry a lot of electronic equipment as well as office supplies, books and papers. It can also become a case for traveling art teachers.

3. Deluxe Rolling Papercraft Organizer →

This Deluxe Rolling Papercraft Organizer was designed to look attractive to enhance the appearance of the user. If you’re wearing a suit, this teacher trolley bag won’t embarrass you, but it’s tough enough for the busiest teacher. It’s recommended by teachers of kindergarten to high school and beyond as a strong rolling bag for carrying a laptop, binders, books, and stacks of paper. The dividers are removable for the days you need to carry a projector or model. This teachers’ tote on wheels will give you that extra little éclat while you go about your business.


Goodies I found:

  • 75D quilted polyester fabric and stylish chrome zippers
  • Reinforced handles and wheels
  • 47 separate storage spaces specially designed to keep paper safe
  • Clear compartments for easy searching and Velcro snaps to hold the top-up

Best for: All of these rolling bags are good for carrying stuff, but this bag has the added bonus of attractive form as well as function.

Teacher Cart with Wheels

Teacher carts with wheels are a better option for individuals who don’t want to try to carry their belongings and would prefer to push or pull them. Carts with wheels often offer a greater capacity than rolling bags. This can make them a better choice for those who need to transport more items for teaching.

4. Copernicus School Classroom →

Copernicus School Classroom has it all. Not only will it hold all the items you need, but you can also take two whiteboards. When I had to use three classrooms in one school, I didn’t have time to set up for each lesson. With this cart, I didn’t need to because I was virtually always set up. I could teach shapes and colors to kindergarteners and then move to a fifth-grade science class for magnetism and on to another fifth-grade class for fractions and decimals. Yes, I’m a very versatile teacher! The best part is, if you have access to interactive whiteboard technology, you always have your screen with you.

Goodies I found:

  • Two whiteboards. I could have my shapes ready for the little ones on one board and the decimals and fractions ready on the other board. The whiteboards are removable.
  • The bins kept me super organized. There’s space to store big books and chart paper. The bins are roomy and easy to reach and hold large books.
  • The whiteboards have two magnetic page paws and snap-on chart paper hooks.
  • The wheels are heavy-duty and roll well, even over carpet.

Here’s a video that clearly shows you the possibilities of teaching with this easel:

Best for: One of the best rolling carts for teachers who need to change classrooms. You can have her lessons ready in advance for each grade level, and will never disturb another lesson already on the classroom board.

5. Olympia Fashion Rolling Shopper Tote →

In my research on Amazon for the best rolling carts, I found this cute Olympia Fashion Rolling Shopper Tote and had to have it. I use it for school when I have a lighter load, and at other times such as overnight trips to the beach. I even used it for a picnic once. It’s called Olympia Fashion because it’s well designed and attractive. You’ll never look like you’re hauling tools.

Goodies I found:

  • Well made. It has several outside pockets, a weatherproof top that zips, a telescoping handle, and solid wheels. Also, the bottom is solid heavy-duty plastic, so you don’t need to worry if you load it with heavy books.
  • Nice design. This is why I stopped on the page. The design is sleek and reminds me of an Italian sports car, even though the name is Greek.
  • Easy to maneuver. Since it was designed for shopping, the wheels turn on a dime and make pulling it a dream. In addition, one of the best features is the long handles on top. You can put it over your shoulder if the rolling option isn’t possible.

You can decide whether you should buy this rolling bag for teachers or not after watching this video review.

Best for: This is an attractive tote that has a lot of uses, but for teachers, it may be best for those who have a lighter load to carry. Even though I said you shouldn’t pamper your rolling bag, I may make an exception for this one. This is my other favorite bag.

6. Mount-it! Mesh Rolling Utility Cart →

This isn’t exactly a rolling bag, but it’s a lightweight, mesh rolling utility cart that’s great for moving books, papers, and supplies from room to room. Since you can see through the sides, you can immediately find whatever you need without moving everything first. It’s very versatile, so when you don’t need it for school, you can use it for grocery shopping.

Goodies I found:

  • The rubber wheels are the strong, silent type.
  • It folds flat and is easy to transport and store.
  • It has a polypropylene case and a strong aluminum handle.

You can see this mesh cart in greater detail in this video review of different carts:

Best for: This is probably one of the best rolling carts for you if you need to dump everything in it quickly and move on. It may not be the best for long-term storage for school supplies, books and papers. It’s a great help if you have to carry a lot of books and papers to class or home.

7. Smart Collapsible Cart →

This is another stylish rolling cart , but it doesn’t come anywhere near the classy look of the Teal Geometric. It’s available in several colors and designs, and some are better than others, but it does look more like a diaper bag or laundry tote than something for a professional. Having said that, it’s collapsible and suitable for books and papers. If you teach kindergarten, your kids may love it if you get the right design. The wheels work well, and the pull-up handle is strong. It could double as carry-on luggage if you ever get a chance to getaway.

Goodies I found:

  • I prefer a plain black or dark blue, but there are colorful designs, flags, and animal prints if you so desire.
  • It collapses for easy travel or storage.
  • It’s very lightweight.

This video will give you a detailed description of the multi-purpose folding cart:

Best for: This is an inexpensive rolling bag that may not withstand too much heavy moving and shaking. If you have a few books and papers that you would rather not hang on your shoulder, this would be a good rolling bag for you. However, it may not take a full year of rough handling.

A few of the best rolling carts I’ve found

All of the following rolling carts are strong and durable, and mainly designed to carry tools and other heavy equipment. They’re suitable for floating teachers who have a lot to move from place to place. Some don’t have the organizational capacity of rolling bags and are not meant to be put in your car and taken home, but if you have to move projectors, textbooks, piles of papers, and notebooks in the same location, any one of these rolling carts will be very useful.

8. Original Tubster 3-shelf Utility Cart →

The Original Tubster Cart is a very sturdy, heavy-duty rolling cart that was designed to carry cleaning products and supplies. The four-inch heavy-duty full-swivel casters lock so you can be sure it’ll stay where you park it. The shelves are 2.5 inches deep, so supplies won’t slide or roll off, even when you’re rushing to the next classroom. This cart holds up to 400 pounds, so you can pile it on and push it along with ease. It’s made of high-density polyethylene and has very strong legs. This is the rolling cart you want if it’s going to take a lot of abuse from scrambling children, crowded corridors, and moving to many different locations.

Goodies I found:

  • It comes with an optional lockable box.
  • The push handles are ergonomic.
  • It’s easy to assemble without tools.

Check out this video to see how easy it is to assemble this rolling cart on your own:

9. ECR4Kids 4-Tier Metal Rolling Utility Cart →

The ECR4Kids 4-Tier Rolling Cart is designed as a storage and organizer space. It’s very attractive and doesn’t look like a utility cart. It comes in several colors and is stylish enough to stay put in an office. Its powder-coated steel frame with four heavy duty casters, two of which can lock, make it useful for a teacher who needs to move supplies from room to room, but if you want a rolling cart that you keep stocked with supplies, this may not be the best option. It may be better over shorter distances and for spontaneous activities. It needs to be assembled.

Goodies I found:

  • The shelves are perforated for airflow to dry any brushes, and it comes with removable clear plastic liners so small stuff can’t fall through.
  • Other uses during vacation when you don’t need it at school are moving garden supplies and as a mobile bar for an outdoor party.
  • In fact, it would be a nice addition to a kitchen, bathroom or patio.

This video shows how easily this metal rolling utility cart can be assembled:

10. Honey-Can-Do All-Purpose Rolling Activity Cart →

The Honey-Can-Do Rolling Cart was made with primary school teachers in mind. It’s a rolling arts and crafts classroom with clear pockets on the ends, bins, and three shelves. It has four bins in the middle shelf and three in the top. The bins are removable so you can pull one out to give sketch pens to one group of children while giving a bin of paint brushes to another group. It has a strong steel frame and can function as an additional workplace.

Goodies I found:

  • It’s a useful piece of equipment for a floating art teacher, and even if it stays in one classroom it’s great for storage and organization.
  • The four casters are easy to maneuver and lock in place so no “little helper” can push it off in another direction.
  • It comes with instructions and the tools needed for assembly.

See this instruction video for assembling this heavy duty rolling cart:

11. Oklahoma Sound Premium Presentation Cart →

The Oklahoma Sound Premium Presentation Cart is designed for audio/visual equipment. If your main job is to give presentations from a laptop, this cart can simplify your life. If audio/visual equipment is essential for your subject — and these days it seems to be essential for every subject — you may want this rolling cart in addition to a rolling bag that holds other supplies. This is a rolling cart that you can share with other teachers, since it’s easy to set-up with a laptop for another class. It has an attractive black powder coat and a mounted six-outlet power strip. It’s easy to assemble.

Goodies I found:

  • The presentation table can be adjusted so you can use it standing or sitting.
  • Built-in grommets to manage miles of wires
  • The four three-inch casters roll smoothly.

To learn more about the presentation cart, watch this video:

How to Choose the Perfect Rolling Cart

Finding the right rolling cart to meet your specific needs will be important. Here are a few tips to help you decide on which option is right for you.

✔ Design
The first and likely most important, thing you’ll want to look for when choosing a rolling cart is the overall design. Think about the items you’ll need to transport with you, and find a cart that is laid out in a way to accommodate those needs. Think about if you’d prefer a more open design with bins, or something that can be zipped up to enclose all of your items between classes.

Source: “”

✔ Mobility
You will also want to think about how easy pushing or pulling the rolling cart will be.

Chances are, you’ll be moving it down the hall every day, or even multiple times a day.

You don’t want to get a cart with wheels that will jam or ones that won’t glide easily.

✔ Quality and Durability
Since you’ll be using your cart on a daily basis and pushing it from classroom to classroom, finding an option that will hold up well to this frequent use will also be important. Look for carts made from durable materials that won’t tear or break easily. You should also pay close attention to the wheels and whether they look durable enough to support the weight of all the items you’ll be bringing on the cart.

Finally, consider the cost of each rolling cart. In a perfect world, the cart would be covered by your school district since it will help simplify your teaching job, but we all know this isn’t the reality for most teachers. Decide on your budget and look for a quality product that is within that budget.

To Sum Up

If you’re a teacher who moves from classroom to classroom and even to different campuses, you probably need to keep certain supplies close at hand because you can’t count on them being at your destination. Fortunately, several manufacturers understand this problem and have created a variety of shelves, teacher trolley bags and carts that roll right along with you.

Whether you need to take your art supplies down the hall or carry all of your audio/visual equipment across town, there’s a well-designed carrying case for you. I spent several years trying to fit a round peg into a square hole and finally did the research to find the rolling bag that fits my needs exactly. I hope I’ve saved you time and energy that you can better spend on your teaching by presenting a few of the best rolling bags, carts, and shelves I’ve encountered along the way.

Last Updated on June 25, 2021 by Emily

Arts and Crafts —

I acquired a new steering wheel for my collection the other week. But this post is not about that. I’ll have a post dedicated to that beauty soon. This post is about the wild idea I had when trying to figure out storage for my steering wheel collection.

See, I’d been using a shelf in the garage. The wheels were all protected in their original Momo and Nardi boxes, but they were still out in the garage. Not the best place for such beautiful objects. And definitely not where I wanted to store my new M2 steering wheel. It is such a piece of art.

And that’s when the idea hit me. Art. It deserves to hang on the wall.

Steering wheels as art.

My Prototipo mounted in a custom display case.

I wandered the aisles of several craft stores with one of my unmounted Momos in my hand. I test fit it in shadow boxes until finding the right size, depth, and backing color. And price. I was very pleased to find these on uber-discount.

For wheel mounting hardware, I hit my local True Value Hardware. The one near my house has a nearly-magical selection of random bolts. And indeed they had just the bolts to fit my wheels and mount them to the boards. Two of my wheels have exposed screws and three have screws hidden under trim pieces. So I needed about 18 bolts total to take care of the four cases.

6 holes are drilled in the backing of each display case in the correct Momo pattern. The box with my Nardi wheel has both hole patterns drilled. The Nardi will always have to be returned to this same case, but the Momos can be swapped among all of the cases. Two bolts secure each steering wheel to the case with speed-nuts on the back side. The other four bolts are just poked through the backing to give a finished look.

I then cut out a 2″ hole in the padded backing with a hole saw. This gives room for the guts of the horn buttons to stick out the back of the frame. The horn buttons themselves are secured with standard Momo mounting rings that normally go between the hub and the wheel itself. It works great for my little display cases. The buttons stay in place, but are easy to remove when it’s time to swap wheels.

Finally, I replaced the crappy frame mounting hardware that came with the shadow boxes with some eye-hooks and wire rated to 50 lbs. God willing, they will stay secured on that wall.

My loft. Artwork by Momo and Nardi.

They live in my loft. I went to a lot of effort to assure the wheels were easy to remove from their cases. I want them to look good on display, but more than that I want to USE them! Taking a case down from the wall and swapping the wheel in it for the one in my car takes very little effort. And that’s how it should be.

If anyone out there reading this has ever done anything similar, I’d love to hear from you! Google was of zero help for this project. I came up with this whole thing on my own. I hope it helps inspire some other wheel nuts.

Craft Carrying Case | Craft Accents Soft-Sided Professional 4-Wheels Carry-On Rolling Makeup Case, All

March 10, 2017

We do not accept P. BOXES – PLEASE PROVIDE A PHYSICAL ADDRESS. We advise you to use a reputable carrier service when returning your goods. Please check the Voltage information and make sure it matches the one in your country. In case it’s not stated in the description, do ask us. We guarantee that your issue will be solved quickly. We usually respond within 24 hours on weekdays. High quality nylon finished carry-on makeup case for traveling professionals. 360 degree 4-wheels rolling system. Heavy duty handle for added comfort and mobility. Sturdy, spacious, and cleverly designed for optimal storage. Retractable/telescoping handle for extra durability. Clear bag for accessories with Velcro system under the lid. Removable top case opens to reveal a large hollow space and 2 extendable trays. Bottom case opens to reveal a large hollow space. Special compartment for a Ipad or tablet on bottom flap. Two side pockets to hold up to 16 brushes. Two mesh pockets on the side to hold other essentials accessories. Removable/adjustable padded shoulder strap. Retractable telescoping height 39.75 inch when fully extended. Extendable tray dimension (LxWxH): 6.75 inch x 5.5 inch x 1 inch – Top hollow space dimension (LxWxH): 11.5 inch x 7 inch x 3.75 inch – Bottom hollow space dimension (LxWxH): 12.5 inch x 11.25 inch x 8.25 inch – Ipad/Tablet compartment dimension (LxWxH): 11.5 inch x 9 inch x 0.75 inch – Overall case dimension (LxWxH): 14.5 inch x 8.5 inch x 22 inch. Craft Accents Soft-Sided Professional 4-Wheels Carry-On Rolling Makeup Case, All. The item “Craft Accents Soft-Sided Professional 4-Wheels Carry-On Rolling Makeup Case, All” is in sale since Friday, March 10, 2017. This item is in the category “Health & Beauty\Salon & Spa Equipment\Rolling Makeup Cases”. The seller is “happy_life2013″ and is located in US. This item can be shipped to United States, to Canada, to United Kingdom, DK, RO, SK, BG, CZ, FI, HU, LV, LT, MT, EE, to Australia, GR, PT, CY, SI, to Japan, to China, SE, KR, ID, to Taiwan, ZA, TH, to Belgium, to France, to Hong Kong, to Ireland, to Netherlands, PL, to Spain, to Italy, to Germany, to Austria, RU, to Mexico, to New Zealand, PH, SG, to Switzerland, NO, UA, HR, MY, BR, CL, CO, CR, PA, TT, GT, HN, JM, AG, AW, BZ, DM, GD, KN, LC, MS, TC, BB, BD, BM, BN, BO, EC, EG, GF, GG, GI, GP, IS, JE, KH, KY, LI, LK, LU, MC, MO, MQ, MV, NI, PE, PK, PY, RE.

  • UPC: 616909364190
  • EAN: 6953802010088
  • Brand: Craft Accents
  • MPN: C6017NLAB
  • Binding: Health and Beauty
  • Color: Black
  • Weight: 15 pounds
  • Dimensions: L 24 x W 16 x H 12 inches
  • NumberOfItems: 1
  • ProductGroup: Beauty
  • PublicationDate: 2014-11-23
  • ReleaseDate: 2015-01-20
  • ISBN: Not Applicable

Tags for this article: 4-wheels, accents, carry-on, case, craft, makeup, professional, rolling, soft-sided.
Filed under:craft by admin

Hot Wheels Display Ideas to DIY * Moms and Crafters

Sharing is caring!

If you have a mad car fan around, these genius Hot Wheels display ideas will save your home! Seriously, those tiny matchbox cars have a way of getting around. Do double duty with these brilliant display AND storage ideas. You can see my complete playroom 0rganization or scroll down for toy car storage ideas. Disclosure: this post contains commissioned links.



Hot Wheels and other toy cars are a classic clutter trap, as they tend to be collected – both by children who simply love toy cars, and by adults who… love toy cars!


But they have an advantage that other toys don’t – they are beautiful, collectible, and displayable (if you ask me.) That makes them a perfect item to store in an aesthetic way, instead of just dumping them into another shoe box.


I put together a quick list of 11 brilliant Hot Wheels display ideas and storage solutions for you to DIY. Some are perfect for “dummies” and some require a little more skill. Choose your sin from the list below!

I’ve also added a few cool storage solutions you can purchase for those of you who may be hammer-handicapped.



11 DIY Hot Wheels Display and Storage Ideas: 

Click on the image or the title to be taken to the tutorial for each of these Hot Wheels display ideas. Please note that image copyrights belong to the respective authors of each of these ideas. If you are sharing this post, please do so using the first or last (collaged) image, and not the individual craft.



1. One of my all-time favorites is this Truck Grill hot wheels storage that really lights up from Arts & Crackers.



2. Make a hanging organizer to display from a hook with  this tutorial from Pick Up Some Creativity.



3. Make a cool slanted display shelf with a woodworking tutorial from LumberJocks.



4. Use metal knife racks to store them with this great idea from the Style Files. I’ve seen this on many websites, and found complaints that it did not work, so I did my research. Apparently, it only works with older cars that have metal bottoms. Some moms fixed this by gluing magnets to the bottoms of the cars.



5. This Painted PVC pipe display by Homedit can be matched to any decor and really makes a statement!



6. This genius car storage idea from A Lo and Behold Life has been a huge hit. You won’t believe what it’s made from ! 



7. I’m in love with the look of this vintage milk-crate-turned-matchbox-car-storage from Designer Trapped in a Lawyer’s Body.



8. What could be better than an actual used tire for storing and displaying toy cars?! Check out the tutorial from Spaceships and Laser Beams.



9. I am obsessed with this wooden crate garage by Frugal Fun 4 Boys. It doubles as a toy to go with the cars too!



10. Stacy’s Savings made this beautiful visual storage for her son’s toy trains – but it works great for Hot Wheels display too!



11. If you’re a collector and keep your Hot Wheels cars in the package, here’s a youtube video for a cool display:



More Hot Wheels Display Ideas and Storage Solutions that I love:

If you’re not keen on DIY or need a quick solution, here are some ideas you can pick up quickly that look great too!




With my son just beginning to show an interest in toy cars, I’ll definitely be saving these DIY Hot Wheels display ideas for a later date! I may even come up with my own solution sometime…


How do you organize your matchbox cars? Do you have any Hot Wheels display ideas to add to the list? Comment below!



This post was originally published December 2015 and was updated to bring it… up to date!! Thanks for all the love!

Sharing is caring!

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Fix Anything On Yours (Locks, Wheels, Handles etc)

If you landed here you’re either a huge DIY fan or you have a broken suitcase. And I’m willing to bet it’s the latter. Whatever the issue with your luggage is, you CAN fix it yourself. All you need is the proper tools and the ability to follow some simple instructions. 

And, if you already have some experience with DIY projects or just fixing items in general, then it’s going to be even easier for you to repair your suitcase. 

Yes, there are some issues that are unfixable, but if your issue can be repaired by a professional then it can also be done by you. 

So, are you ready do get your hands dirty and attempt to fix your own suitcase? Do you want to save some money and time? Would you like to upgrade your suitcase, and make it even sturdier then before? I

f you’ve nodded your head to any one of these questions then awesome! Let’s talk about all the issues that we often encounter on suitcases (both softshells and hardshells), and how to fix them in this step-by-step luggage repair guide!


Sending your suitcase somewhere for repair is undoubtedly easier and quicker than repairing it yourself. However, learning how to fix your own luggage has a whole string of benefits.

If you can’t decide between becoming a DIY luggage fixer and just mailing it for repair, I will try to persuade you to it yourself. 

Let’s talk about the benefits of learning how to fix your own luggage.

It’s Easier Than You Think

It might seem scary to you, or you might think that there’s no way that you are capable of fixing your own suitcase. But trust me, that’s not the case. 

Repairing your own luggage is way easier than you think. You just need to get the proper equipment (which I will link wherever possible) and follow the step-by-step instructions. I will include videos wherever I can, since I know some people are simply visual learners.

Practice makes perfect. You might completely fail on your first attempt, but you will get the handle of what you’re doing by your second or third try.

It Will Save You Money

Consider the cost of actually sending your suitcase in for repair. If you are sending it to the manufacturer, you also have to pay the shipping and not just the repair. Therefore, it might actually be cheaper to take your broken suitcase to a local repair shop. 

But the cheapest way definitely is to learn how to do it yourself. That way, you only have to buy the parts – why pay someone $30 to fix a loose screw, when you can do it yourself for free?

In addition to that, if you need your luggage fixed immediately, most people will charge you an additional fee for that. 

It Is Quicker

Obviously, not in terms of spending your own time. But, if you need your suitcase fixed ASAP and just don’t have the time to send it in for repairs because you have to be on the road tomorrow, then fixing it yourself is much more efficient. 

This is especially true if you’re shipping your suitcase to the manufacturer – this process could take weeks. If you can’t afford to be apart from your suitcase for that long, then learning how do it yourself is obviously the best choice. 

This is actually the case for many repairs. I just broke my document shredder, again! And the idea of dealing with the whole returns/warranty process has me sweating already!!!

They Get You With The Warranty

Most people just hear the words lifetime warranty, and they think they will never have to spend a dime on their suitcase again. Which is so untrue.

First, you should always read the terms of your warranty. Most of them state that they only cover manufacturing defects, and not actual physical defects. Or that they will fix a physical defect, but only in the first year or so. 

And what about when the warranty expires? You will have to either take it to a repair shop, or learn how to fix it yourself eventually. Might as well start now. Especially if you can’t afford to spend money on replacement luggage, or even repairs. 

You are learning a new skill

And you can’t put a price on that. Or actually, you could. 

With every issue you manage to fix, you are just going to improve your suitcase-repairing skills. Think about that – in a year or two, you could become a real pro. And you could help fix your friends’ luggage and even charge them. 

In time, you could even open up your own repair shop if you want. I’m not saying quit your job and become a professional suitcase fixer, but rather something you could do in your spare time. And if you generally love to attempt DIY things, then think of this like more of a hobby than a task.

Don’t you agree that these are very good reasons to attempt to fix your own luggage yourself? If you do, let’s move on to the problems that you are most likely to encounter with your luggage and the best possible solutions for them.

Luggage Wheels

Is a wheel on your suitcase a little looser then you’d like it to be?

Or maybe a piece has broken off a plastic or silicone wheel, and now you can’t drag your suitcase around. There’s a quick and easy fix for that.

And even if you have to replace the entire wheel (or more of them), that’s not going to be an issue. In this section, I’ll talk you through all types of issues you can have with your wheels and how to fix them.

Here’s What You’ll Need To Fix Your Luggage Wheels

Before you even think about replacing the wheels on your suitcase yourself, you need to make sure you have the proper tools. So, here’s everything you’re going to need to preform a successful wheel reconstruction surgery.

Note: Keep in mind that you won’t need all of these items – it depends on the type of wheels on your suitcase, and how they are attached to it.

Black and Decker Drill & Drill Bit Set

A Regular Hacksaw

All-In-One Screwdriver Set

You’ll need these tools to remove wheels that are riveted or attached with an axle. If you already own any type of hacksaw you don’t have to buy a new one. However, removing them with a drill is much easier and faster, as you will soon see.

If you’re not 100% sure what screws are holding the wheels of your luggage in place, your best bet is to get an all-in-one type of set of screwdrivers. Also, if you decide to get the DeWalt drill, then your best option is to just buy a screw set for it. Since it’s such a multi-functional tool, you will be able to use it both as a screwdriver and as a drill – which might actually save you money in the long run.

In-Line Skate Wheels (Choose A Size)

Replacement Spinner Wheels With Leg (Choose A Size)

Replacement Wheels With Axles (Choose A Size)

Each of these sets includes two wheels with all of the screws and bolts you need to secure them in place. Don’t worry about it getting too technical, I’ll talk you through the details of replacing the wheels later. For now, you need to know how to choose the proper replacement wheels for your luggage. 

Generally, you need to differentiate between wheels that are riveted and those that are screwed on. According to that, you need to purchase the type of wheels that are suitable for your luggage. 

As for spinner wheels, you can just place pretty much any type of wheel in the leg. The second set here is a set of wheels with the legs, but the method of replacement I’m going to show you includes just removing the wheel and not the entire leg. However, if you decide to purchase the middle set, here’s what you need to know: unzip the lining to expose the bolts, unscrew the entire wheel leg, screw the new wheel legs (with wheels) in place, and that’s it. 

Get The Right Size Wheel!

The thing you need to be careful with is the size of the wheels. You need to get replacement wheels that are the exact same size as the ones currently on your luggage – otherwise, your suitcase is going to tilt one way when standing upright. All three of these sets allow you to choose between several different sizes of wheels, so picking out the right ones should be fairly easy – as long as you take proper measurements of the wheels on your suitcase.

Oh and I almost forgot – here’s another piece of equipment that you will most likely need, and not just when repairing the wheels:

Gorilla Black Duct Tape

I’m not joking – just like with pretty much anything, you can fix half of the issues with your luggage with good ole’ duct tape. I’m recommending this particular brand simply because it’s black, which could come in handy for one quick wheel fix – for aesthetic reasons, of course. :>

Now that we’ve covered pretty much all of the equipment that you’re going to need, let’s move on to the various issues you could encounter with the wheels of your suitcase, and how to fix them.

Tighten Loose Wheels

If there is a wobbly wheel on your suitcase, you can fix it in just a few minutes. Actually, the process of fixing the wheel is the easiest and quickest part of the repair process. What takes a little more time is figuring out what tool you need to do it!

First you need to identify the types of screws on your wheel, so that you know what type of screwdriver to use or buy. The next step is to figure out the size of the screw – you can do that by measuring the length of its shank. Or, if you’ve got any replacement screws with your luggage, their size should be stated on the packaging. 

When you successfully figure out the type and size of the screws on the wheels, then you just need to use the appropriate screwdriver. Chances are that your wheels are fastened with hex or regular Phillips screws – that’s most often the case. So, all the equipment you need is a set of hex screwdrivers – I’m guessing you already own a few Phillips screwdrivers, because who doesn’t, right?

Then just get out the right screwdriver, and insert it into the screw. Make sure that it is at a 90 degree angle. You want the wheels to feel tight on the suitcase, but not too tight fastening them way too tightly could cause the wheel to seize and just make an even bigger mess. Instead, turn the screws a couple of times and then try budging the wheel around. When you feel that the wheel isn’t going anywhere but that you could still tighten the screw a bit, you’ll know you’ve done the job properly.

Extra Points: If you want to take it a step further, you can add a little loctite to the screw. This adds a little plastic type material to the end to ensure it does not vibrate loose with extended use (like walking on French cobblestones for 2 hours!).

Touch-Up Silicone Wheels

If your luggage is equipped with in-line skate wheels, there’s a good chance that the wheels are made of silicone. One issue that you can have with these is that, over time, little chunks of the wheel will break off, which will prevent them from rolling smoothly

Been there, done that. Right? This is easier to fix than you think. 

You’ll need some patience and a roll of duct tape. First, if a large chunk of your wheel has broken off you will want to remove the entire wheel – until the metal base of the wheel is exposed. It might seem counterintuitive, but just trust me on this one.

Then, make sure that you’ve split the duct tape so that it is not wider than the base of the wheel itself. You then want to wrap the tape around the wheelbase, until it is as thick as the other non-damaged wheel. I recommend you pick up your suitcase from time to time and test it. Try to roll it around to room to check if you need to add a few more layers of tape to even things out. When you feel that both the original and the “new” wheel are rolling evenly, you can stop wrapping the base. 

Next you’ll want to slant the edges a bit, especially if they are rubbing on the frame of your luggage. Use a carpet knife or some sandpaper to do this – be careful not to harm yourself. 

In terms of functionality, your suitcase should be as good as new. If you’re worried about aesthetics, you can always cover up the duct tape with a piece of black electrical tape – no one will be able to tell difference between the two wheels, apart from you!

Keep in mind that this is only a short term / temporary fix. The tape will wear out over time, especially if you’re dragging the luggage on uneven terrain. You’ll have to replace the wheel eventually, and we’ll talk about that in a minute.

If you want a complete visual walk-through of the process, you can pop over to this post here.

Replacing The Wheels On Your Luggage

This step is going to require a bit more equipment than the other two. Your best option is to simply get a wheel replacement kit from Amazon – I’ll link a few good ones in the next section. 

Depending on the type of the wheels on your luggage, there are a few different approaches to wheel replacement. 

Riveted Wheels (With A Metal Rod)

These are probably the hardest type to repair. Because you cannot just unscrew them – first you have to cut through the metal rod that is holding them together.

So, get out your safety goggles and a hacksaw. Carefully cut through the rod, making sure that you don’t injure yourself. Tear apart the washers and bearings that are holding the wheel in place from the rivet with your hands (wear gloves, the rod will be hot!), and set them aside. You are going to need those. But you won’t need the wheel itself – that you can throw away. 

Put the old bearings into the new wheel, one on each side. They will help keep the wheel in place and steady while you insert it into the wheel well. When you’ve inserted the wheel into the well, place a screw through it and the bearing. Finally, put washers on both sides of the wheel and fasten them in place. You can then insert a new rivet through the wheels and tighten the final nuts and you’re done. Just don’t tighten them too much – they won’t roll smoothly if you do that.

And here’s a helpful video that will show you how to do all of this, step by step: 

Screwed Wheels (Removing The Wheel Well)

First, you’ll want to buy replacement wheels that are the exact same size as the ones that are already on your luggage. Additionally, try getting wheels that come with the same type of screws that your luggage now has – it will be much easier to replace them, because you will get all the equipment you need. 

Lie your suitcase flat and unzip the lining. That will expose the nut bolts inside the suitcase, which are holding the screws in place. Get a wrench that is appropriate for the nut bolts in your suitcase and grip them tightly, and then use a screwdriver to remove the screws that are holding the wheel well in place. To remove the screws, you need to turn them counter-clockwise (righty tighty, lefty loosy!). 

There should be a small clip within the wheel. You have to push it out, to be able to remove the bolts and the wheel. Once you’ve done that, you can take out the damaged wheel completely and dispose of it. 

Now all you have to do is put the replacement wheel in the wheel well. Put washers on each side of the wheel, and secure it into place. You can do that by attaching a clip right through the slot on the axle. 

When you’ve successfully secured the wheel into the wheel well, put the well back on your suitcase and screw it into place. Roll your suitcase around the room for a little while, to make sure that the wheels are nice and tight. 

Fixing Spinner Wheels (With A Drill)

 Even though we’re using a drill, this is a slightly less invasive process than the previous one. You are going to need a drill to remove the wheel, because of the eyelet rivets. You have to drill a hole through them, so that they will fall out.

You could use a hacksaw to saw through the axle of the wheel, but that’s a little bit more risky – you could damage the leg of the wheel. But if you don’t own a drill, then this is the way to do it – just be careful and go slowly. 

The thing about these wheels is that they are also riveted, but they are not all connected with a large metal rod like the first type. However, you still have to remove the rivets, so, on with the drill method. Determine the size of the hole, and then use an appropriate drill bit. If the hole is 5 mm wide, use a slightly larger drill bit – a 5.5 mm would be the perfect choice. And remember, slow and steady wins the race – you want to drill through the top ring just until it breaks away. If you drill too much, you could damage the wheel or the leg, and we don’t want that. 

Once you’ve done that, the wheel should easily come off. Remove all damaged wheels and clean the legs. Then just place the replacement wheels in the legs, put the axles through them and the final bolts in the axles. Tighten everything nicely, and you’re done. 

Luggage Handles

Have a suitcase with a broken handle? Don’t worry, you can fix it yourself easily!

First, you have to figure out what the exact issue with the handle is, and then I’ll walk you through the repair process. 

Additionally, even if the handles on your luggage are broken beyond repair, the process of replacing them is really simple. 

So, let’s see what the most common issues with luggage handles are, and how to fix them.

Broken Push Button

 If your wheel handle is broken, and the push button looks anything like the one in the picture below, it’s going to be an easy fix. 

So first, determine the type of screws that are holding the handle in place, and get an appropriate screwdriver. You can see here that I needed a Phillips screwdriver for this particular suitcase. And, even though the screws were of different sizes, I managed to remove them all with one screwdriver. You just need some precision and patience. 

The first issue I had to deal with was how to get access to the screws, since they were located on a part of the handle that was inaccessible, due to it being stuck. If you have the same issue, use a little brute force – just enough to get the part of the handle with the screws out. 

Carefully remove all the screws. Don’t worry if some of them aren’t coming out completely – as long as you manage to disassemble the handle, it’s fine. 

As you can see, the issue was very clear at first sight. One piece of the button just fell out of the handle, while other appeared to be forcefully lodged in place. So how do we fix it? Obviously, with some superglue!

Apply some glue to the surface that is going to be attached to the button, then hold it in place for about a minute until it sticks to the other piece of plastic. Leave it to set and repeat the process on the other piece. I left the entire thing to set for about half an hour, before I decided to put the handle back together. You need to make sure that the glue has dried completely, otherwise you risk gluing the button to the inside of the handle, and making your suitcase even more useless than before. 

So, after about half an hour or an hour, put everything back together, and screw everything in place. You should be able to tell by the sizes of the holes which screw goes where, if you already forgot where they were in the first place. And voila, as good as new!

The Tubes Are Stuck

If your push button is working just fine, but you can’t get the handles to budge unless you apply a lot of force, then you have a different issue. Chances are that they are just stuck, and that you need to grease them a little bit

But first you need to make sure that the tubes are actually stuck. First detach the handle from the tubes, by removing all the screws that are keeping it in place. When you do that, you should see a thin metal rod sticking out from each of the tubes. 

These rods are what actually makes your wheel handle extend. Sometimes the fix is easy as repositioning the rods inside the holes in the handle, so that they can connect to the push button. Try to do that – maybe one of them just fell out of the hole. 

But if that doesn’t work, it’s time to check what’s the issue. Push down on the metal rod, and then try to extend the tube. If the tube extends, then the issue is not with it, but rather with the handle. On the other hand, if one (or both) of the tubes won’t budge, then you’ve successfully isolated the issue. 

First thing you are going to try to do is grease the tube. But before you do that, you should check whether something got stuck inside the tubes. So, take out the metal rods and try to see inside the tubes. You’re going to need a flashlight for this. If you see anything weird inside, remove it. You can do this by getting a long, thin stick and wiggling out the foreign debris, or by just turning the suitcase over so that it can fall out of the tube.

If there is no debris inside the tube, then greasing the rods is the next step. Just some WD-40 should do the trick. But if you don’t have that, you could even use some soap or even olive oil – the important thing is that you use some sort of a greasy lubricant. Leave if for about 15 minutes, and then try extending the tubes again. Push down on the rods and pull the tubes up – if it works, then congratulations! You’ve managed to successfully repair your telescopic wheel handle!

Screw the top handle back in place, and be careful to align the rods inside the little holes. With a push of the button the tubes should extend nicely, and your wheel handle should be as good as new!

However, if that didn’t fix your issue, then I’m afraid you’re going to have to replace the entire handle system. But there is one more issue to check for, before you go ahead and disassemble half of your suitcase.

Replacing A Loose Screw

If one of the tubes just won’t stay up and falls out of the handle, there is a good chance that a screw came loose. Check for that first – it’s something you can fix yourself in about two minutes. You just need to find a screw that is the same size as the one that came loose, and then screw the handle into the tube.

Was this the issue you had with your luggage? Just imagine if you had sent it in for repair and spent a ton of money to get it fixed, when you can do it yourself in less than 150 seconds! But if there is something else wrong with the telescopic handle on your suitcase and none of these fixes helped, then your best bet is to simply replace the entire thing. And it’s not at all difficult to do – I’ll guide you through the process. 

Replacing The Telescopic Handle

This can be either very simple or pretty difficult, depending on how the handle is attached to your suitcase. Take a look at these two photos:

On the right, you can see little rivets. These need to be drilled through, and don’t even attempt replacing the handle if you don’t have a drill – that’s the only way to remove them. Measure the hole of the rivet, and find a drill bit that is about 0.5 mm larger than it. Drill steadily through the rivet just until you make a hole and it falls out. That will allow you to take out the screws easily. 

On the other hand, check out the photo on the left. The screws are fastened with nuts, which are practically inaccessible. Because you need a wrench to unfasten these, and there is no way to get a wrench inside this plastic hole. I gave up on this particular suitcase – I tried to loosen the nut with tweezers, didn’t work. But also keep in mind that this particular image is of a really old and cheap suitcase, and you shouldn’t encounter such design flaws on the more recent (or expensive) ones.

Okay, so back to the rivets. Once you’ve drilled through them all and removed the screws, you should be able to easily remove the handle. One more thing – it is also possible to remove just the tubes, if they are fastened to the suitcase. As you can see in the video below, the tubes are screwed into the suitcase with regular Phillips screws. All you need to remove them is a Phillips screwdriver.

But if you’re removing the entire handle system, you will have to drill through the rivets. However, please check what the rivets are connecting to your suitcase – there is a chance that you don’t have to remove them. In this particular image, they are used to attach the piece of plastic that attaches the handle to the body of the suitcase. Since this part of the handle system is intact, there is really no need to remove it. If you also notice that you don’t need to remove that part, you will save yourself a lot of time and energy. 

If you managed to remove the handle with the tubes, now it is time to put in a new one. This is the easy part – just place the tubes through the same holes where your old telescopic handle was. Make sure that you properly align the tubes – the holes in the tubes should be in the same place as the holes on the plastic mount, because that’s where the screws go.

Now all you have to do is place the screws in the holes and fasten them tightly. Once you’ve done that, you should apply some lubricant to the tubes, and extend the handle and retract it a few times. Take your suitcase out for a spin and test the handle – if everything appears to work fine, then congratulations! You have successfully replaced a faulty wheel handle.

Picking Out The Right Replacement Handle

One thing you can do, which will ensure you get the right part for your suitcase, is message the manufacturer and request that they send you a spare part. That’s the only way you can be 100% sure that the replacement handle is going to fit your suitcase perfectly, especially because it is not so easy to find spare parts for luggage online. 

You can usually find information about spare parts in their Frequently Asked Questions sections, like on Samsonite’s page. Then you just email them the correct info, and wait for your spare part to arrive. 

You can also find plenty of replacement parts on Amazon. If you choose to try and do it this way, you have to make sure that all of the dimensions are exactly the same – the width of the handle, the height and width of the tubes, and also the distance between the two tubes. And even then, there is a chance that they won’t be a perfect fit. But, since you can get a replacement telescopic handle for $20-30, it’s worth giving it a shot. Here are your best choices, based on the different size options:

SuperMa Replacement Telescopic Handle (G002-16 inch)

SuperMa Replacement Telescopic Handle (G003-22 inch)

MagiDeal Telescopic Luggage Handle G003 Model – two bars

Fixing/Replacing The Carry Handles

This is a much quicker and easier process than replacing the telescopic handle. That’s because carry handles are usually attached with just two screws. When you have to replace them, all you have to do is take out the screws, and that’s it. Put a new carry handle in its place and fasten the new screws.

If your suitcase is fully lined inside, you are going to have to remove the lining to expose the screws. If you can just unzip it then great – the interior of your suitcase will stay intact. However, if the lining is glued to the body of the suitcase, you might have to rip it off, or cut a hole in it. If that is the case, consider whether replacing the carry handle is worth it.

One thing you have to be careful about is the width of the handle. You need to make sure that it is as wide as the old handle – otherwise the screws and the holes aren’t going to be aligned. You could technically attach it even if it doesn’t fit properly – just drill new holes through the handle. But then it’s not going to be really aesthetically pleasing. 

You don’t have to worry about shape as much. In fact, you can choose any shape or type of the handle you like, so you can even upgrade your suitcase. Check out these handle on Amazon below – there is a huge variety of styles, and you can see the dimensions of each one if you scroll to the product information section.

RDEXP Black Flexible Spare Handle for Suitcase
BQLZR Suitcase Replacement Handle

If you simply want to repair a broken handle, then I have two suggestions for you. 

If you have a softshell suitcase and a handle that is made of fabric, your best option is to sew it back together. If you don’t want it to be obvious that you fixed it yourself, make sure to get a string that is the same color as the fabric of the handle. This is a pretty easy fix, and even if you’re not a pro at sewing, it shouldn’t be too difficult to do. 

If you have a broken plastic handle, then it’s time to take out your superglue again. Apply some glue to both parts of the handle, and hold them together firmly for a minute. Then leave the glue to set for an hour or two, making sure that the handle is not touching the body of the suitcase – you don’t want to glue to the handle to your luggage, right? And that’s it – your carry handles should be good to go. 

A Broken Latch

Zipperless suitcases are pretty popular among frequent travellers, especially because it’s virtually impossible to break inside them. However, if the latch on your zipperless hardshell got stuck or broken, then you have a useless piece of luggage. 

You want to fix it or replace it? No problem. 

It’s time to check out some problems that you might have with a suitcase latch. And if you can’t fix it, I’ll show you how to replace it – it is easier than you think.

The Latch Is Stuck

If the latch on your suitcase still works but you’re having a hard time getting it to lock and then unlock, there’s a good chance that you just need to grease it. And it’s pretty normal to experience this, especially if you’ve owned that particular suitcase for a while. 

So, you need to grease the insides of the latch, as well as the flap. Move around the parts of the latch and see which ones are stiff – this is the best way to determine the exact parts that need to be greased. The best latch lubricant you get is WD-40. But if you don’t have it handy, you could also use some oil, butter or even soap – as long as it’s greasy it should do the trick. 

If this little hack solved your problem, then awesome! But if not, let’s talk about other things that could be wrong with your luggage latch.

The Latch Won’t Click (Lock)

So you’re trying to lock your suitcase, but the latch refuses to cooperate. Maybe the top part of the lock won’t go in the hole? Or maybe you can manage to close the lock, but it just pops open again?

If this sounds like your issue, then there are two things that might be wrong with the latch of your suitcase.

First, check the flap. It is the top part of the lock that you insert into the hole – maybe the flap is bent, and that’s why your suitcase won’t lock. And this is an easy problem to fix – just straighten the flap with your fingers. Use some pliers if you’re not strong enough to do it with your bare hands. Just be gentle – if you pull the flap too fast or if you use too much force, you could break it off. 

You’re not sure how straight it’s supposed to be? If your other latch is working fine, then compare the two. Straightening the damaged latch until it looks like the normal one should do the trick. 

But if the flap looked perfectly fine, then you’re going to have to clean out the hole of the lock. Chances are that it’s gotten filled up with dust or some other debris – especially if you’ve owned the suitcase for a while. This is also pretty easy to do – I use cotton swabs when I have to clean out these locks, since they pretty tiny and it’s easy to get them inside. 

You could also try to use a blow-dryer – just like when you’re cleaning out your keyboard. The air pressure will make the debris come out, and your lock should be pretty clean. 

If none of these tricks work and you still can’t get the latch to lock, then it’s time to remove it from the suitcase and take it apart. It’s possible that something inside the latch has broken off. 

Repairing A Broken Latch

I will say this – if a piece of the latch broke off, you need to replace the latch. You can attempt to repair it, but it will most likely break off again. Latches are usually made of steel and if a piece managed to break off, it will be extremely difficult to repair. Additionally, there is a possibility that it will break again in transit, and you’ll have a faulty latch on your suitcase on your return trip. And that is definitely not something you want to deal with on your vacay.

But if you need a quick fix, try these two tricks.

First, unscrew the latch from the suitcase and take it apart – if the screws are exposed. Check out this photo: 

Now, you can see that the screws aren’t at all exposed. Additionally, the lining was glued to the suitcase, and I actually had to tear it apart from the shell to get it to open. And I still couldn’t get to the screws to replace it. Now what I did here was try to superglue the latch back together. And very, very carefully – since I couldn’t remove it and disassemble it, there was a chance that the glue was going to stick to the other parts of the latch, rendering it even more useless than before. 

What did I do to avoid this? Since the top part of the lock broke at the core, I knew that if I just tried to glue it in place it would get stuck to the upper part of the lock. So, when I was aligning the broken piece to the latch spring, I pulled down on it gently. I kept it in place until the glue dried somewhat and then I let it go. I left it to set for an hour and lo and behold – now I can lock my suitcase up. 

Now, if the screws of the latch are exposed, just detach it and try to fix it like that. This is the safer way, since you are less likely to damage the rest of your suitcase – getting superglue on fabric is a nightmare. But since these latches are often one-piece mechanisms, sometimes you can’t really fix them – other than try to glue them back together. 

Two things to note: you need some really strong superglue if you want this to work. Otherwise, when you try to unlock the latch, the broken piece will just come off again. This actually happened the first time to me, when I used some weak superglue. The top part of the latch just popped off because of the force of the mechanism and it went flying above me. So just in case, duck when you’re opening the suitcase. :> The other thing to keep in mind that you have to let the glue set properly. Depending on the type of your superglue, this can take anywhere from an hour to several hours. Be patient – it is worth it.

On the other hand, if the screws aren’t exposed, I urge you not to try to detach it. You’ll make a hole in your suitcase, one that will probably be too large for the latch screws, and you won’t be able to put the latch back in place. In that case, I advise that you simply replace the latch – so let’s talk a bit about that. 

Replacing A Broken Latch

What’s really fun about replacing a latch is that you can pretty much choose any type of latch you want for your suitcase. Once you remove the old latch, your suitcase is pretty much a blank canvas. You would have to drill some new holes to be able to place the new latch, but it won’t damage your suitcase too much. You want something vintage? Go for it! 

To remove the old, broken latch, you’ll need to unscrew it from the suitcase. If regular screws are holding it in place, then this should be fairly easy. If they are riveted, you will need to drill through the rivets. I wrote about this process in much more detail in the first section (repairing the wheels), so please refer to that. You can also see my suggestion on the best drill for this job there. 

When you’ve removed the old latch, put the new one in its place. If it’s possible, align the holes on it to the holes on the suitcase. If not, you will have to drill a new hole – measure the diameter of the latch hole, and choose an appropriate drill bit. This will ensure that the latch is tightly secured on the suitcase and that it doesn’t wobble around. 

Here are a few interesting and affordable latches that you can get on Amazon:

Uxcell Metal Latch Clasp

Vintage Bronze Latch

Uxcell Suitcase Latch With Key

However, if you want the exact same latch as was on your luggage before, then you should contact the manufacturer and request a replacement part. Go to their website and check the FAQ sections – you can usually find info about getting spare parts there. 

TSA Locks

TSA locks are an important piece of your luggage. They ensure the safety of your suitcase by keeping the bad guys out. But they also allow the good guys in – since TSA agents can easily open these if they need to.

So if your TSA lock breaks or gets stuck, you want to repair it ASAP – especially if you plan on flying to the US. 

Want to learn how to fix it yourself? Let’s get down to it!

Disassemble And Reassemble The Lock

If you don’t think the lock is broken but it’s just not working properly, then you should take the time to reassemble it. There is a good chance that one of the pieces just fell out of its place, and that putting it back in place will fix the problem – especially if the lock makes a rattling sound when you shake it. And yes, repairing it is as easy as it sounds. 

First you want to find the screws with which the lock is attached to the suitcase. You will probably have to unzip the lining to find them – on all of my luggage, the locks were attached with regular Phillips screws. So, I used a regular Phillips screwdriver to remove the lock and it took me about two minutes to do that. Easy peasy. 

You can check out this video to see how to properly disassemble and then reassemble a 007 TSA lock (these are most commonly used on suitcases): 

Pro-tip:if you’re not 100% sure that you’ll remember how to put everything together, take a picture of the lock as soon as you open it. That way you won’t have to rely on your memory, and you can just use the photo to see where each piece goes. 

Be very careful when removing the individual pieces, especially the push button spring. Some pieces are tiny and try to always keep them in your sight. If any of the pieces were loose, reassembling the lock should fix your issue. When you’re finished with that, reattach it to the suitcase (with the same screws you removed in the first place) and try it out. If it works fine now then you’ve managed to fix it!


Stuck TSA Lock 

 If your lock works fine but it gets stuck from time to time, then you just need to grease the push button. So, follow the same steps as in the above section to remove it and disassemble it. Once you’ve done that, take a cotton swab and some rubbing alcohol and clean the metal cover of the lock. If your lock is entirely made of plastic, then clean out the dust and any other debris with water. 

After that get some WD-40 (or oil, butter, soap) and grease the push-button mechanism. Apply just a drop or two of lubricant and it should do the trick. Also apply some to the gate mechanism, and leave it to dry for 15-20 minutes. Then just reassemble the lock and screw it back on your suitcase – it should be as good as new. 

Permanently Locked Suitcase

If you locked your suitcase at one point and forgot what combination you chose for the lock, then you have a pretty big issue. But, instead of taking your luggage to a locksmith, you can easily reset it yourself. Now, this is a little bit scary – when you realize how easy it actually is to pick a 007 TSA lock, you might want to reconsider using them on your luggage. 

But that is a topic for a different post. One way to do this is to insert a pen into the teeth of the zipper of your suitcase – this will allow you to get inside your luggage, and unscrew the lock. You can disassemble it completely and remove the zipper pullers from its teeth. Then just zip up your entire suitcase again, and you’ve sort of fixed your issue. Well, you’ve managed to open up your permanently locked suitcase, but you still don’t know the combination to that lock. 

You can either replace it, or just put it back on the suitcase and reset it. Here’s how you can reset your 007 TSA combination lock:

As you see, you just need a toothpick! Keep in mind that simply pressing the reset button won’t work while the pullers are in the lock, which is why you need to take it apart first. But if this is too much work for you, there is another way to reset the lock, which also uses just a toothpick – but it requires you breaking into your own suitcase.

You can see how to reset your TSA lock with a toothpick in this video:

If you can’t find the hole on the wheel, I suggest you use your phone’s flashlight. Position it above the lock, and you’ll be able to see inside. See, I told you it was a bit scary how easy it is to break inside your own suitcase! Also, you can get a TSA master key for less than $15 on Amazon (which is even scarier) and that just might be the easiest way to open up your suitcase. :>

If you’ve tried everything and your lock still doesn’t work, then it’s time to replace it. And I’m going to show you how to do that in the next section.

Replacing A TSA Lock

First you need to get a replacement TSA lock – preferably the exact lock as the one you are replacing. Since there are a few different types of 007 locks, I did my best to find all the ones we most frequently see on luggage:

Original American TSA007 Password Lock

MagiDeal TSA 007 Aluminum Luggage Lock
TSA 007 Secure Luggage Combination Lock

If you’re not 100% sure just from looking at the lock, check the position of the screws on the back. Compare it to the ones on the lock you have now, and make sure that they are in the same place. 

To remove the old lock, you need to expose the screws and unfasten them. This should be fairly easy if your suitcase has zipped lining. On the other hand, if the lining is glued to the body of the suitcase, you will have to pry it away. But at least this is an easy fix – you’ll just need a glue gun and some glue sticks:

Gorilla Hot Glue Gun

Gorilla Hot Glue Sticks

Once you’ve removed the old lock, simply put the new lock in its place. Make sure you align it with the holes that already exist on your suitcase. Then just screw it in place and that’s it! Oh and don’t forget to set up a new combination. If you’re not sure how to do that, you can refer to the video in the previous section, which explains how you can (re)set a TSA combination lock.


You know, this section actually applies to basically every item you own that has a zipper, and not just your luggage. But, since zippers are crucial to both protecting your belongings inside a suitcase, as well as holding them in place (hello dividers), I’ll mostly focus on issues that affect suitcase zippers

I’ll try to explain to you how to fix these issues step-by-step – you just have to follow the instructions. So, if you want to fix your suitcase zipper, this is the section you’re looking for. 

What To Do With A Stuck Zipper

When you have a stuck zipper, that means that it got caught on something. So obviously, you need to remove whatever it got caught on.

Let’s try something real quick and easy first – get a graphite pencil and rub the tip of the pencil on the teeth of the zipper. And now try to work the zipper again – if it works then awesome. You fixed in less than a minute. But if it’s still stuck, let’s try a different fix. 

You’ll need some sort of grease or lubricant – preferably something that’s not oil-based, because it will stain the fabric. Try using bar soap or even a lip balm – rub it on the teeth of the zipper, and then slowly work the zipper down. As you’re working the zipper, reapply the lubricant every now and then – it will be quicker that way. Also, this is best way to fix a zipper that got stuck in fabric.

There’s one more thing you could do if the zipper got stuck in its own fabric – bring it up a little bit while holding the rest of the zipper fabric out of the teeth’s way. Hold the fabric down with one hand, then slowly work the zipper down. Sometimes you can get the fabric out with just your hands and there’s no need for any additional tools.  

Broken Zipper Puller

This is a pretty easy fix. There are actually plenty of different things you could do to replace a broken zipper puller. One of them includes getting a replacement puller and just inserting it into the slider. And keep in mind that you can pretty much put any type of a zipper puller you like. You want it to have a star at the end? Go for it. Maybe you want a leather zipper puller this time? Why not! 

Just make sure that it’s approximately the same size as your slider. If you get a puller that is a lot smaller than the slider, it’s going to fall out. On the other hand, if you get a puller that is thicker than the slider, you will have a hard time inserting it. But, here are some of your options:

Anladia 22x Zipper Tab Replacement Tab Repair Kit

Mopolis 2Pcs Leaf Design Replacement Leather Zip Puller

Zipper Rescue Kit (Various Parts)

Zip Fixer – 16 Replacement Zipper Tags

If you’re looking for an-ultra quick fix, you don’t even have to put in a zipper puller. You could just attach a key ring to the slider, or even a paperclip. Anyway, check out this video to see all the items you have in your home that you could use instead of a zipper puller:

But if don’t really have an issue with the puller, but rather with the teeth or the slider, then you are going to have to get a little more creative. So, let’s talk about what to do if your zipper won’t close or if the teeth are popping apart.

Zipper Teeth Are Coming Apart

You zip up your suitcase but the teeth don’t close properly. Or they just pop open. Does this sound like your issue? If so, I have a few suggestions on how to fix it. But, you will have to figure out which part of the zipper is responsible for this. 

First thing you should do is try the soap/pencil trick. Sometimes, the teeth just need to be greased a little bit and they’ll work properly after that.

Then check the slider. There is a chance, especially if your suitcase is pretty old, that the slider is simply not catching the teeth properly. The reason why this is happening is usually that the slider came apart a little bit, and it’s too wide for the teeth. You’ll need a pair of pliers to fix this – grip the base of the slider and tighten it a little bit. Don’t squeeze on the pliers too hard, because you risk breaking the slider if you do that. But if you do it gently, you will tighten the slider and it should work normally again. 

If this didn’t fix the zipper, then it’s time to take a look at the teeth. If any of them are sticking out, grab those pliers and straighten them. Again, be gentle – breaking off even a single tooth will just mess up your zipper even more. 

If none of these fixes worked, then I’m afraid you’re going to have to replace the entire zipper. Let’s talk about that. 

Replacing Your Suitcase Zipper

There are two ways you can replace your suitcase zipper. First, if only the slider is broken, then you can just replace the slider. This is a lot easier and quicker to do. For this you just need a pair of pliers and a steady hand. 

Insert the pliers inside the slider, into the part that grips the teeth of the zipper. Apply some vertical pressure, and do your best to pry away the slider from the rest of the zipper.  If you can’t do this, you can just remove the zip stops – the two little bars that stop your slider from falling off the teeth. Then just remove the slider, and you’re ready to put in a new slider. But if you opted for the second option, don’t forget to put back the stops! Otherwise, your zipper won’t be of much use. 

Before we begin, here is the best kit you can get to replace your zippers. It has everything you could need, including a ton of pullers and sliders in different colors and sizes:

YAHOGA 143 Pieces Zipper Replacement Zipper Repair Kit

 Now, if the slider is broken and the teeth are broken you are going to have to remove the entire zipper. This method is going to require you to sew in a new zipper, so you should have at least some manual sewing experience. Since most suitcases are pretty bulky, you can’t really use a sewing machine. I mean you could try, but you’re just going to wind up with a broken machine needle. And don’t cut the seams to remove the zipper – this will make it much harder to sew in a new zipper, especially if you’re fixing a hardside suitcase.

What you should do is grab a pair of scissors and cut out the zipper. Try to cut in a straight line, and cut as close to the teeth as you can. When you’ve done that, it’s time to prepare for sewing in the new zipper. Get some push pins – this will make it much easier to sew in a straight line. Attach the new zipper to the leftover fabric of the old one, and put in a push pin every couple of inches. Then grab a needle and some thread and sew on the new zipper. If you managed to successfully put in a new zipper, congrats! Just put on the slider, and your suitcase should be perfectly functional again. Oh, and if you left a little bit more tape of the old zipper in the first place, you also expanded your luggage a little. :>

One thing to keep in mind is how important it is to get a replacement zipper that is approximately the same size as your old one. The best way to ensure you’re doing this is to first cut off the old zipper, and then straighten it out and measure it. Measuring a zipper that is sewn into a suitcase isn’t 100% precise, and you could buy the wrong one. Here are some great replacement zippers you can get online:

YaHoGa #20 Super Large Zipper (2 Yards)

YaHoGa 2PCS #10 Separating Large Plastic Zippers (Multiple Lengths)

ByAnnie ZIP30-105 Double Slide Zipper (Two Lengths)

Plastic Shells On Hardside Luggage

Hardside luggage is usually much more expensive than softside. So, it hurts even more when the shell cracks or when you see a nasty scratch on it after your flight. 

But don’t stress – you don’t have to shell out another $200 (at least!) to get a new suitcase. You can repair the shell of your hardside suitcase yourself, and I’m going to tell you how to do it step by step. 

Filling Out Holes In The Shell

If you’re devastated because a small piece of your suitcase cracked, or you just found a hole in your brand new suitcase, don’t be. It’s actually pretty easy to fix it – you’ll just need some Sugru glue, a piece of mesh and a spoon. You could also use a pair of rubber gloves, if you want to be as careful as possible. 

Sugru Moldable Glue Classic Colors

Sugru Moldable Glue Natural Colors

Fine Mesh Strainers

Check out the links above – you can choose from much more colors than you can see in the photos. :>

Examine the damaged part of the suitcase. If a small piece of plastic is cracked, try to remove it from the shell. But do this carefully – you don’t want to crack it even more. Once you’ve done that, you should be left with hole in your hardshell suitcase. Now you want to take that piece of mesh (I suggest using an old strainer and cutting a piece from it) and cover the hole with it. Make sure that the mesh is wider than the hole on all sides – depending on the size of the hole, you want to the mesh to be half as much wider. Mold the mesh inside the hole with the spoon – oh and we’re doing this inside the suitcase.

Now is the time to put on the rubber gloves, if you don’t want to get your hands dirty. 

Get your Sugru glue – if it’s a small crack, you’ll need just one packet. However, if it’s larger, you will probably need at least two or three packets. And keep in mind – the larger the hole, the less stable this fix is going to make it. If it is a really large crack, I suggest you check out the next section – that fix is much more suitable for it. 

One more thing – Sugru glue comes in several different colors. You want to get a color that’s going to match the outside of your suitcase, so that it’s not noticeable that you ever repaired it. And again, we’re fixing the luggage from the inside. 

So take out the glue, and first shape it into a little ball. Then try to press it to make a thick rectangle – if you use gloves, there won’t be any fingerprints in the glue, which will give it a smoother finish. Centre it over the mesh, and press it firmly into place to cover the entire hole, as well as the mesh. This will keep the support material in place, and make sure that it doesn’t fall out by accident. But don’t worry if you can’t do that in one go – you can build up the patch later. It’s important to cover the hole first, and then you can add pieces of glue to cover the entire mesh. And be sure that you press the glue through the holes in the mesh – that way it will connect with all sides of the cracked shell. 

The next, and the last step is to build the patch from the outside of the shell. That way you’ll ensure that the glue is also connected to the outer part of your luggage, and that it will stay in place. Also, this allows you smoothen the outside of your suitcase and make the repair even less visible. So, mold the glue on the outside until you’ve expanded it on all sides, and until you’re happy with the way it looks. If there is any access Sugru, feel free to remove it – this will make the shell look even more seamless. 

And that’s it! Even though your suitcase might not look as perfect as when you first bought it, at least it’s much more functional now. And you can play around with some paint and cover up the entire patch of glue if you care about aesthetics that much. :>

Repair A Cracked ABS Shell

It is surprisingly easy to repair an ABS shell. And even if the crack is along the full length of the shell, you’ll be able to fix it. That’s some good news right there! You will need some supplies from the hardware store, though – namely Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). This is something you can’t really get on Amazon, but you should be able to find it any hardware store. I will link some other supplies you’ll need – a piece of ABS plastic (it should be as long as the crack or slightly longer), a paintbrush and a container. You can get a plastic container, a glass container or a ceramic one – just don’t get an ABS one. The MEK will burn right through it and you’ll have a huge mess on your hands. 

Black ABS Plastic Sheet

Paint Brushes

 Mason Jars

First thing’s first – get a piece of cardboard and put it below your cracked suitcase. And make sure to this on a hard surface – preferably a glass or wooden table. So, put the cardboard on the table and then put the cracked shell on it (the inside of the suitcase should be facing up). Pour out some MEK into the container, and put it next to the shell.

Now, you want to make sure that the cracked sides of the shells are nicely aligned. They shouldn’t be overlapping, but rather simply touching each other. Dip the brush into the MEK and remove all access by tapping it against the sides of the container. Then apply the MEK to the cracked plastic on the inside, as well as some to the cracked sides. You also need to apply some of it to the piece of ABS plastic that we’re using to cover up the shell. Then press that piece of plastic onto the crack and leave it to set for about 20-30 minutes. You can also put something heavy on it, to ensure that the pieces stick together. 

Here’s a helpful video on how to do this:

So what is actually happening is that the MEK is dissolving the ABS plastic. When it’s dissolved it’s going to stick together nicely – that’s why we’re covering it with another piece. And you’ll see for yourself – after about 20 minutes, the crack should be perfectly patched up. And even stronger than before!

Fixing A Cracked Polycarbonate Suitcase

Gluing polycarbonate shell together is as easy as fixing ABS shells. The only thing that differs is the type of solvent used, and obviously the type of plastic you’ll need to make them stick together.

To see some detailed instructions on how to fix a polycarbonate shell, I suggest you refer to the video above. Just replace the MEK with methylene chloride and a sheet of ABS plastic with a sheet of polycarbonate plastic. Here’s what you’re going to need to repair the polycarbonate shell of the suitcase: 

Methylene Chloride 

Lexan Sheet – Polycarbonate

Paint Brushes

 Mason Jars

And just like with the previous fix – lay the shell flat on a hard surface, and put a piece of cardboard of wood below it. Pour out some methylene chloride into a container (obviously not a polycarbonate one; I suggest a glass or ceramic jar) and dip the paintbrush into it. Remove any access solvent and apply it to the cracked part of the shell. Also, apply some methylene chloride to the sheet of polycarbonate that you’re using to cover up the crack, and then press that sheet firmly over the crack. You can put something heavy on it, and leave it to set for 20-30 minutes. And that’s it!

One more thing – make sure that the piece of plastic you’re using to cover up the crack is as long as the crack itself. This will ensure that it adheres to the crack completely and that the fix is successful. 

Getting Scratches Out Of A Hardside Suitcase

Since there are about 20 different types of scratches you can find on your suitcase, we’ll talk about several different ways to remove them. Let’s start with some shallow scratches – you can remove these with some basic household items. 

Removing Shallow Scratches – The First Method

For this fix you’ll need just an eraser and some toothpaste – I’m guessing you already have these at home. 

First, you want to clean the scratch with some water, and then wipe it with some cloth to dry it.Take the eraser and rub it along the length of the scratch a few times. Do this lightly – if you rub too hard, you could remove some color from the shell of the suitcase. Wipe off any eraser residue from the scratch with a cloth. 

Then you need some toothpaste – apply a small amount to the scratch with a toothbrush, and work it in circular motions to get it inside all parts of the scratch. Wipe it away with a wet cloth and you’re done. If the scratch was indeed pretty shallow, this should have fixed it. If your suitcase is still scuffed, let’s move on to the next fix. 

Removing Shallow Scratches – The Second Method

This is a little more sophisticated fix, but it’s also more likely to work. You’ll need some wax-based furniture polish and some silicone-based furniture polish for this method:

Speed Cleaning Premium Furniture Polish (Wax And Silicone)

Daddy Van’s All Natural Unscented Beeswax Furniture Polish

First, wash the suitcase with some soap and water, and then use a wet cloth to remove any access soap from the shell. You can leave it to dry or dry it yourself with a kitchen towel. 

When you’re sure that the shell is dry, take some wax-based furniture polish and apply it to the entire shell, putting a little extra over each scratch. This will make them much less visible, as well as increase the overall scratch-resistance of your luggage. And it will make it look really smooth so that no one will even notice the scuffs!

The wax-based polish actually fills in the gaps, and it reduces their depth significantly. After that, you want to apply some silicone-based furniture polish. It will bring out the natural shine and luster of the plastic, making your luggage look even better than before.

To really increase your chances of removing scuffs from your luggage, I actually suggest you combine these two methods. You can’t really overdo it – you can just make your suitcase look extra shiny and new!

Removing Deep Scratches

Removing deeper scratches from a suitcase is not as simple as the first two fixes. It actually includes repainting the shell, which can get pretty expensive. So, you have to decide for yourself whether it’s worth it. 

For this fix, you will need some extra-fine sandpaper. Make sure that you get the right coarseness – if you get a sheet of sandpaper that is too coarse, you will ruin the entire shell of your suitcase. Additionally, it is better to get some finer sandpaper and then have to sand the shell for an extra minute or two, than to ruin it with some really coarse sandpaper. 

3M Wetordry Sandpaper, 1000-Grit, 9-Inch by 11-Inch, 5 Sheets

Apple Barrel Acrylic Paint Set

So, you have to sand the scratch. Do this gently and slowly, until you notice that the scratch is no longer visible. This will mean that you managed to get it out successfully. Actually, what you did is thinned that entire part of the suitcase, so be extra careful with it – depending on how deep the scratch was, this part of your suitcase could crack more easily in the future. 

After that, you’ll want to repaint your luggage, because I’m guessing you sanded through the color/pattern. Obviously, you’ll need some paint that’s the same color as the rest of the shell. Or, you could go for a completely different color, and give your suitcase a makeover – it’s up to you! 

Ultra-Quick Fix

I do have to state that this is not an actual fix. But if you’re tired of looking at the scuffs on your luggage, but don’t have the time to sand them or wax them it will do the trick.

Explore Land Travel Luggage Cover Suitcase Protector Fits 18-32 Inch Luggage (Multiple Colors)
8 Series Stickers 100 pcs/pack Stickers Variety Vinyl Stickers

You can get some stickers or luggage covers on Amazon, and use them to cover up the scratch. Additionally, this “quick fix” will significantly improve the scratch resistance of your hardside luggage. And while it might not be as permanent as thoroughly sanding out the scratch is, it’s perfectly suitable for the busy (or the lazy) traveler!

Fixing Rips on Softside Luggage

Although a rip in the fabric will hardly impact the functionality of your luggage, it is still something you want to fix. Especially if your suitcase isn’t really old – the more you use it, the more likely it is that the fabric will rip even more.

So, we’ll check out a few ways to fix any ripped fabric on your favorite softshell, both on its outside as well as on the inside!

Repairing Rips On The Outer Shell

There are several ways to repair a ripped shell of a softside suitcase. And you probably already have some of them in mid – like sewing the torn fabric together. But there are a few more creative ways, and we’ll also talk about those. Because they are awesome for all of you who would want to stand out at a crowded airport. Or just notice your suitcase more easily on the carousel.

Sewing Torn Fabric Together

This probably already crossed your mind. And if the fabric only tore apart, that is if there isn’t a piece missing, you could easy try to sew it together. But you’ll have to do it manually – suitcases are way too bulky to fit under a sewing machine. And it’s not just that; even if the tore is on the top part of the suitcase, which you could fit under a sewing machine, and even if you get a needle that’s thick enough to go through the fabric, you will end up sewing through the inner pocket. And that’s not something you want.

So we’re going old school – get some needle and thread. If the fabric of the shell is pretty thick, you will also need a thick needle. And you want to get thread that is the same color as the shell, so that the seam isn’t that visible. Check some of these sewing kits, if you’re looking to get everything you need in just one purchase:

ARTIKA Sewing Kit with Over 130 Premium Sewing Accessories

Sewing Kit

 The rest is pretty obvious – just sew the torn pieces of fabric together and that’s it. Keep in mind that this method is the easiest, but the seam will still be visible. If you want to cover up the entire thing, there are a few other things you could do. Let’s talk about those. 

 Sew Additional Fabric Over The Tear

This also works if your suitcase is missing a chunk of fabric. So, think about what you want your luggage to look like. Maybe you can add some lace to it? Or you could even sew an additional pocket over the tear? Your creativity is your only limit. 

But yeah; you will want a large piece of fabric that you can cut in any shape you like. And playing with shapes is also pretty cool – you could cut out an emoji, a flower, a heart, or even a middle finger if you want to show everyone that you’re extra tough. Just make sure that the shape you are cutting will cover the entire tear.

I would get a ruler, measure out the length of the tear, and then mark it on the fabric that I’m using to cover it up. You can then draw on the fabric – there are about a million different stencils you can download online, and just trace them on the fabric. Cut it out, get some thread and sew it over the tear. Or, you can even glue the fabric onto the shell – you just need a hot glue gun and some glue sticks. Like these:

Gorilla Hot Glue Gun

Gorilla Hot Glue Sticks

Tear Mender Instant Fabric and Leather Adhesive

 If you dig the glue gun idea, you can also consider getting some rhinestones and gluing them over the torn fabric. It would cover up the rips, and step up your bling game at the airport. Just don’t go to crazy – they will add to the total weight of your suitcase. 

But if you don’t really care for the gun, you can also get some Tear Mender fabric adhesive. It works like a charm – just a few drops and the fabric should stick together nicely.

Sew/Iron On A Patch Over The Tear

Maybe you don’t want to cut out random shapes out of fabric, or maybe you don’t have the time. That’s fine. There are dozens of different fabric patches designed specifically for covering rips in the fabric. You can get them online, and they will make your luggage look pretty cool. Especially if you pick a theme and commit to it – glue or sew patches all over your suitcase, and no one will ever know that it was ripped in the first place.

Dandan DIY Random Assorted Styles Embroidered Patch

Embroidered Badge Patches Assorted Styles

DIY Applique Patches

There is also a bunch of iron-on patches you can get. However, it might be more difficult to attach these to your luggage, since the fabric of the suitcase is neither smooth nor completely straight. But it’s worth giving a shot – especially since these don’t require any sewing.

Iron-on Patches Light Assortment
Iron-on Patches Dark Assortment

Inside-Out Patches Iron On–Cool Classics

What To Do With Rips In Leather Luggage

Fixing rips in leather isn’t as straightforward as fixing plain old fabric. You can’t just sew it together – leather is much more sensitive, and once you put a needle through it, you’ve made a hole that will last forever. 

So, rather than risking making even a bigger mess of your suitcase, I suggest you get these patches:

MastaPlasta Leather Repair Patch

 The MastaPlasta leather patches are very easy to use – you just peel them off and stick them onto the ripped part of your suitcase. They also work for leather handbags, jackets, and pretty much anything that you own that’s made of leather. Additionally, you can get them in a variety of different colors, so it should be easy to get a patch that matches the colors of your luggage. The fix will be pretty seamless, and your suitcase will almost look as good as new. 

Fixing Rips In The Lining

The lining is much easier to fix than exterior fabric. For one thing, it is pretty loose, it is much easier to sew a rip together without having to stretch out the fabric. You’ll just a needle and some thread, and you can sew the tear together.

But what I realized worked best for me was removing the lining altogether. And if it’s the kind that has a zipper in the middle, you will also be removing some weight from your luggage! Not to mention that you will also gain some packing space. As I like to say, when packing for an overseas trip, every single ounce counts!

How you are going to remove it depends on how it is attached to the suitcase. If it is zipped to the interior of your luggage, just remove the zip stops from the zipper, and completely remove the slider – the lining should come right of.

It can also be glued to the body of the suitcase. In that case, you will need to use some force to tear it apart from the body. Don’t worry about damaging the luggage – the worst thing that can happen is that the lining rips into a few more parts. And since you’re removing it anyway, that shouldn’t matter at all.

Finally, if the lining is sewn into the body of the luggage, it’s better to just cut it off. Get a pair of scissors, and cut as close to the seam as you can. Just be careful not to cut off any other parts of the suitcase. But if you do, scroll a little bit up to see how you can fix it. :>

That’s pretty much it. I think I’ve covered all my bases, but if you have a problem with your suitcase that I haven’t mentioned in this repair guide, then I want you to tell me all about it! Describe the issue in the comments, and I’ll do my best to tell you how to fix it. :> 

Have fun DIY-ing and remember – be patient with the glue and don’t rush anything. I hope that these tips helped you repair your broken suitcase and saved you some money in the process!

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Cradleboard –

Indigenous infant carrier

Navajo cradle

Cradleboards (Cheyenne: pâhoešestôtse , North Sami: gietkka , Skolt Sami: ǩiõtkâm , Inari Sami: kietkâm ) traditional protective babies used by many Scandinavian cultures throughout the North American and native cultures among the Sami. There are many styles of bassinets, reflecting the diverse craft practices of indigenous cultures.Cradle cots are still used in some indigenous communities in North America.


Cradle of Atikamekw

Carrycots are used during the first few months of an infant’s life when a baby carrier is essential. Some cradles are wicker, like Apache. Woven cradles are made from willow, dogwood, tulle or cattail fibers. Wooden cradles are made by Iroquois and Penobscots. The Navajo cradles are made from a Ponderosa pine frame with buckskin laces threaded through the frame.

Whatever materials are used to make cradles, they have common structural elements. The carrycots are made with a wide, durable protective frame for the baby’s spine. A footrest is built into the base of the carrycot, as well as a rounded cover over the baby’s head that curves out of the carrycot, similar to the canopy or hood of a modern baby stroller. This headgear is designed to create shade for the baby as it can be covered with an animal hide or blanket in winter to protect it from the elements in colder climates.The headgear also provides extra head protection in case something hits the carrycot. Jewelry and sacred amulets are also often attached to the headdress, such as “beaded umbilical cord cases, dream catchers, or healing wheels,” to entertain the child and help them develop their eyesight.

The inside of the carrycot is lined with fresh plant fibers such as sphagnum moss, cattail fluff or crushed juniper or rock rose bark. The liner serves as a disposable diaper, although the Navajo can clean and reuse the crushed juniper or rock rose bark liner.These plant fibers have antiseptic properties and thus nourish healthy baby skin. The Chippewa tradition was to make the lining for the cradleboard usually from moss growing in a cranberry bog, which is smoked over a fire to kill an insect, then rubbed and pulled to soften it. In cold weather, the baby’s feet may be wrapped in a rabbit skin with fur inside. The moss lining is surrounded by a birch bark tray insert inserted into the carrycot, which could be removed for cleaning.


James Kesas, his wife and their child in northwest Manitoba, Canada, 1886.

Cradle cots have been used in a variety of cultures from the subarctic regions of present-day Canada to Mexico and Central America. In the arctic regions, the cold weather does not allow the use of the infant’s survival cot, and the babies are carried in a sling worn under the mother’s parka. The cradles were widely used by the indigenous peoples of modern North America.Cradleboards are used in pickup people in Mexico and were used by the Aztecs and Seri people and Mayan communities as far south as Belize. In modern-day South America, most indigenous peoples used slings or pouches, sometimes called rebozo , for carrying babies rather than cradles. However, cradles were used in the southernmost part of the continent, in the Patagonia region.

The cradles were used during periods when the mother of the infant had to travel or otherwise move around for work, and this was necessary to protect the infant.The bassinet board could be worn on the mother’s back using “bandages” or “carrying straps” that would wrap around her forehead, chest, or shoulders; if she carried the backpack with the carrycot, the strap of the backpack would go around her chest and the strap of the carrycot around her forehead. The cradle can also be placed on a large tree or stone if the child is small, or suspended from a pole (like in the long Iroquois house), or even hung from a sturdy branch of a tree. They were also used when longer travel was required as the carrycot could be attached to the horse for transport.

In the southwestern United States and northern Mexico, among cultures such as the Hopi and Apaches, infants spend most of the day and night in the cradle, taking out of it for ever longer periods of time, up to five times a day. As the infant reaches the age when he can sit unsupported, he gradually weaned from using the bassinet and spends less and less time in it. During this time, the infant can use a second, larger bassinet that replaces the first. By the time a baby is one year old and starts to walk, he usually has finished using the bassinet.

Cradle use and its effect on mother-child interactions have been studied in Navajo communities. The use of a cradle has been shown to have no significant negative impact on this development. For the first few months of infancy, the bassinet soothes the little ones. After 6 months and older, infants begin to resist being placed in the bassinet more vigorously as they become more mobile and are often placed in the bassinet with their hands and arms free so they can play with objects suspended from the bassinet.for their entertainment.

Developmental dysplasia of the hips

The use of the bassinet is associated with an increased incidence of hip dysplasia. The technique requires straightening the legs, which contributes to dislocation of the femur and deformity of the acetabulum. This can be avoided by placing a spacer between the baby’s legs so that the knees remain slightly bent and the hips are turned outward. Some modern bassinet users argue that a small 1968 study of Navajo babies was deliberately designed to tarnish traditional cultural practices.

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Factory of bank notes

History of the construction of the factory building

The factory building and the stone residential wing are the oldest buildings in this part of the city, they were built during the time of Empress Catherine II (1785) and have survived to this day almost in their original form. The factory is a unique example of an industrial building from the Age of Enlightenment.Its front facade is made in the strict style of unordered classicism. The factory building was built on the banks of the Kupalny Pond, on the site of the old Petrovskaya Mill. The choice of the site for the construction of the factory was not accidental. On the one hand, this place was located “next to” the Catherine Palace, on the other hand, the isolation of Tsarskoye Selo helped to preserve the secrecy of this object.

Geographic location also played an important role in setting up a paper mill. The stepped pond system was perfect for its functioning.The building was built close to the dam so that water from the sluice would flow directly to the wheel of the mill through lead pipes in wooden cases from the Sredny Pond located above. In addition to the mill, the main building housed papermaking facilities and warehouses. On the site allocated for the construction of the factory, they also built a stone “scoop” and a wooden “drying room”, houses for workers, officials, for military guards, detached warehouses, and the house of the factory manager.The author of this building is still unknown. According to one version, this is Charles Cameron, who at that time became the architect of Her Majesty. Some of his papers have survived to this day, where there were similar drawings, but they are all without names. In addition, the hand of this master is not visible in this structure. There is another version: as the professor of history of that time I.F. Yakovkin writes, the author of this building is the St. Petersburg hydraulic engineer, Quartermaster General Bower. The appearance of the Assignation Factory at the end of the 18th century is due to a number of reasons, the main of which is the appearance of a large number of counterfeit banknotes (paper money), which were previously produced in private factories.Therefore, it was decided to open a state-owned enterprise and raise the quality and security of banknotes to a high level.

Factory start-up

In 1785 the factory started to work. A small agreed circle of persons had access to production, and the territory of the factory was carefully guarded. All work was carried out under the strictest secrecy, with the observance of state secrets. Prosecutor General Vyazemsky was appointed the “manager”. Foreign specialists were involved in the production, foreign equipment was brought.In order to protect against counterfeiting, the quality of the paper produced was closely monitored. The paper making process was manual and called “scoop”. In the early years, the factory employed 30 people plus security. By the time the factory was closed, the number of workers and apprentices had reached 100. During this time, real working dynasties appeared here. The experience was passed on from fathers to children. This did not happen by chance – the working conditions at the state-owned enterprise favorably differed from the conditions in private companies.

Factory closure

From 1860 to 1872, the building was most likely empty.In 1819, the factory was transferred to St. Petersburg, in connection with the beginning of the Expedition for the preparation of state securities and for reasons of the impossibility of maintaining secrecy in the newly built city. Industrial buildings did not stand idle. In the same year, they were repaired, the third floor on the main building was completed and a new building was added to it. The Imperial Wallpaper Factory, which existed until 1860, moved to this industrial zone from Ropsha. The number of workers on it reached 169 people. It was the only industrial factory in the city.By 1865, according to the project of the architect Ippolit Monighetti, the residential wings of the factory were rebuilt to accommodate the Nikolaev almshouse, which was later converted into the Nikolaev men’s gymnasium and the Tsarskoye Selo town hall.

Educational institution in the former factory building

In the early years of the orphanage, the architect A.F. Vidov reconstructed the building, adapting it to the needs of the students. From 1872 to 1917, it housed the Artisan Women’s Shelter of the Mariinsky Department (Empress Maria Feodorovna) for the purpose of religious and moral education and teaching crafts and handicrafts orphans and children of the poor.It was decided to open such a shelter due to the shortage of servants trained in various household chores. It accepted girls from 8 to 15 years old. The number of pupils was about 80, some of them received personal scholarships from the Empress, the St. Petersburg State Duma and the Tsarskoye Selo City Hall.

Modern Time

  • In 1977, the architect B. A. Rozadeev revealed late restructuring, distorting the original historical appearance, and restored the original composition of the building.
  • In Soviet times, the medical unit of the Military Engineering Technical University was located here.
  • Currently, a residential building in the former factory building.

Editorial staff of the site

Labor feat of the NHP masters during the Great Patriotic War: we are proud and remember!


The Great Patriotic War of 1941-45 had a heavy impact on the life of the people of our country. And today there is no family that would not be directly or indirectly touched.For Victory it was necessary to mobilize as much as possible all branches of the national economy. The work of enterprises of folk arts and crafts has become a separate page of the general feat.

Since the beginning of the war, the main creative personnel fought at the front. The field work was undertaken by elderly craftsmen and teenagers. So, despite the traditional male dynasties in the Khokhloma painting, , the famous master Fyodor Bedin recruited a group of girls for training in the craft. It was with his light hand that the profession of a master in Khokhloma painting became a woman’s.From its first issue came, for example, the later famous master Olga Lushina, who for 35 years was the chief artist of the Seminsk factory.

In the photo: Fedor Bedin saved the Kholom fishing industry from extinction during the war.

Mstersk lacquer miniaturists produced original TASS Windows in the village. The main heroes of the improvised performances turned out to be the heroic deeds of Soviet intelligence officers. One, executed by the founder of the trade, Nikolai Klykov, depicted German tanks knocked out by Soviet soldiers. Signature reads: “Kerosene of the highest quality – the Nazis on it burn out completely” .

However, already in August 1942, the Soviet government decided to withdraw the folk craftsmen from the front. The sewing of uniforms and warm clothes switched to stitching and lace crafts. Stone-carving and bone-carving artels were engaged in the production of mouthpieces and combs. The Fedoskino craft produced cases for field binoculars. The Chkalovsk enterprise “Guipyur” provided the soldiers with underwear, mosquito nets were made here and banners were embroidered.”Kazakovskoe enterprise of art products” produced cases for RG-40, -42 grenades, ski bindings, stars for senior officers and cigarette cases.


The Khokhloma artist in Koverninsky received military orders for skis, wooden shovels, sledges, butts for machine guns, products with Khokhloma paintings. In the art workshop, they painted thin and semi-Basque spoons – up to 10 thousand pieces daily. One can imagine what warm feelings the soldier felt when he received a Khokhloma gold spoon painted with grass, from which he smelled like a home!

According to the director of the Nizhny Novgorod State Historical and Architectural Museum-Reserve , Professor Yuri Filippov , wheel craftsmen made a large number of wooden wheels for vehicles:

– With shovels with cuttings made by virtuoso turners who, before the war, sharpened luxurious vases, bocata and supplies, almost the entire country dug trenches and built defensive structures.

Only experienced wood craftsmen knew how to make hardwood flexible and take the shape of skis, wheels, curved sled runners.

“Please note that the rim of the cart wheels exhibited in today’s cafes for the entourage of the cart wheels is always composite, not one-piece bent,” the narrator notes. – And a real wheel has always been made entirely of a single piece of wood, it is much stronger, but it is also not easy to make it – it was necessary to steam the wood in a special way in order for it to become plastic.This is a whole art.

During the war, the work of the famous masters of the Vasilevsky guipure also changed. Top-class craftswomen began to sew soldier’s underwear. During the war years, they produced millions of sets of soldiers’ underwear.

“And the Gorodets gold seamstresses were embroidering military banners with gold thread,” explains Yuri Filippov. – Then many military units and formations had the right to their own banner, and the inscriptions on them must have been embroidered in gold.

We are proud of the feat of labor of Soviet craftsmen! We are proud and remember!

Lord of the Rings Online, patch for LOTR Online, middle earth online

Lord of the Rings Online Patched

Posted on rpgworld 28 August 2009

The new patch was installed on the game servers of the popular MMORPG “The Lord of the Rings Online”.Under the cut you can get acquainted with all the innovations.

Changes in playable classes

  • Warrior: In battle there is a mention of -30% to healing


  • Access to Karn Doom Tower is reopened.
  • Elven Stones will drop from Tome 8 instance chests.

Dark Brotherhood

  • The mistress’s blows intensified, she flew into a rage

Hall of Wheels:

  • Increased the difficulty of playing in Hard mode.The kaerogs have learned to take each other out of their torpor and roots.
  • Fixed a bug with pistons that blocked the target from players even in a raised state.
  • Fixed a bug in the fight with the last boss, which led to the fact that players “hung” in the roots without the opportunity to free themselves.

Mirror Hall:

  • Fixed a bug due to which players could not get to the back of the instance.
  • Ergot decided she’d stop hiding from the players.She also polished the last mirror to a shine. Be careful – it is easy to slip on it!
  • After death, the overseers stopped summoning the defilers.
  • Ergot now severely punishes players attempting to fight her from a safe height.


  • Jewelry crafted from Lothlorien recipes can now be worn in Etten Heights. The additional features of these decorations, which are triggered when pressed, will not work on Etten Heights.
  • The effect of the Defender’s Method of Lorien’s Medallion now deals damage to attackers (and does not heal them, as it was before).
  • Robe of the Novice Stone Reader: Slightly reduced energy bonus.
  • Mantle of the Rhyme: Slightly reduced energy bonus.


  • The game client will no longer crash when opening and closing the browser.

Horse riding:

  • Fixed errors on the route Observation Deck – Anazarmekhem.


  • “There and back”: fixed a bug with receiving a reward for completing a task.
  • New missions of the High Loot category have been added to Esteldin.


  • Miner: Smelting Tin critical success now produces three tin ingots instead of three bronze ingots.
  • You can no longer obtain additional crafting components from level 1-7 enemies.
  • Increased chance of receiving additional crafting components from sapient enemies.
  • The Guilds of Jewelers, Blacksmiths, Scientists, Tailors, Armourers and Woodworkers have received new recipes for creating legendary items (copies of Second Age items)
  • Menasdir Elf of Lothlorien Crafting Guild now has Recipe Cases for Jewelers, Blacksmiths, and Tailors Guilds.
  • The Elves of Lothlorien now have recipes for Jewelers, Blacksmiths, and Tailors to trade items for the Elves of Lothlorien.

Graphics, Animation & Effects:

  • Changed the design of some hats. Now, instead of the valve that covered the neck, you will see the character’s hair pulled up.
  • The hole in the floor of the Rotten Basement is cemented. It’s not that rotten after all.

Summer Festival:

  • In the Shire, on the Kruch, and also near the Halls of Thorin, two new Summer Festival events await players.

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