How to Use Curved Rulers on Bluprint
By Linda Reynolds & filed under Sewing Blog.
When it comes to making alterations to your WIP garment, there’s a secret weapon just waiting to be used: curved rulers. These get the job done much better than simple straight rulers could — after all, our bodies aren’t filled with straight edges and hard lines. Humans are curvy!
Curved rulers are most often used for both pattern drafting and fitting adjustments. There are three main types used for sewing garments, and each have a place where they shine. Steal the tips below and you’ll know exactly which to use each and every time.
1. French Curve Ruler
The French curve is the most common curved ruler used for fashion design. (It’s the translucent ruler shown above.) It’s especially handy for making common fitting or pattern adjustments.
2. The Hip Curve
The hip curve is an essential tool for making patterns and fitting adjustments at the hip line. The tool is also great for making adjustments at the hemline, for lapels and at the elbow. Anywhere a slight curve is needed, this is a good ruler to use.
The hip curve ruler is also particularly useful for making side-seam adjustments. Once a side seam is pinned to fit, use a hip curve to draw in the new seam line that the pin line has created. The ruler is unlikely to conform exactly to the curve of the pinned line, so it will likely require drawing in the new seam line in phases.
3. The Fashion or Styling-Design Curve
The styling-design curved ruler is one of the most common curved rulers used by the home sewer. While it can be can be used to draft patterns, it’s more commonly used to make neckline, collar and sleeve cap adjustments. In addition, it’s a great tool to use when converting darts into princess seams, and it can be used for making side seam adjustments.
Oh, and when it comes to altering sleeves, the styling-design curve is essential. Once a garment armhole has been altered, adjusting the sleeve cap follows. Use this ruler to record the adjusted armhole measurement and then transfer those measurements to the sleeve cap to ensure a great fit.
Tags: clothing, patternmaking, sew
Patternmaking Tools that Won’t Break Your Budget, Part 2
Hello, Everyone! Here I am again getting back to the basics (this is Part 2) with the last 3 of 7 patternmaking tools that I started talking about in my previous post. You can read about and watch the video of the first 4 tools I discussed in Part 1, if you missed it. As I mentioned in Part 1, you don’t have to buy a lot of expensive tools to get started with patternmaking. And while I love shopping for and buying patternmaking tools or anything patternmaking, it’s not always in the budget. There are some tools you may already have in your sewing toolkit, your home office or even your closet that’ll give you the same result as the “out of budget” tool. Today, I’m going to talk about the last 3 of 7 patternmaking tools that won’t break your budget.
*Note: All prices and products are correct at the time of this posting, but are subject to change. These are all things I use, but I encourage you to shop around and compare prices. And make sure you use those fabric store coupons and take advantage of sales.*
Here are the last 3 of 7 patternmaking tools, plus one to add to your wishlist.
1. Skirt Hangers
Hanging your patterns in a closet or on a garment rack will stop them from getting wrinkled and save you time at the ironing board. The fashion industry uses metal pattern hooks, but 12 hooks will cost about $15. To save money, you can use what you already have in your closet – hangers. Skirt hangers are great for hanging your patterns. One of my blog readers suggested skirt hangers and I’ve been using them every since then. They grip the patterns and hold them in place. In other words, they get the same job done as metal pattern hooks.
The other day I was in one of my favorite stores, Target, and saw a set of hangers for children’s clothes. Immediately I thought, “I wonder if these will work for my patterns”? And they do, so I’ve added them to my toolkit. For the record, I ‘m not encouraging you to raid a child’s closet, even if they’re related to you.
If all of your skirt hangers are busy, you know, holding your skirts, then you can also use regular hangers. Use a hole punch, the same tool you use to punch holes in paper to put in a notebook, and punch holes a couple inches away from the top of your pattern. Then you can stick your patterns on a hanger and have them wrinkle/crease-free and ready to be used again. Stick your muslin on the same hanger and you’ll know at a glance what you made out of the pattern.
What: Skirt Hangers & Regular Hangers
Where: Buy at Walmart, Target and some dollar stores
Cost: Varies by store but are usually inexpensive
- Straight Edge: I use this ruler when laying out my patterns on fabric to make sure they’re straight. This basic ruler is a must have for sewing as well as patternmaking. You don’t have to have an L-square, although you should invest in one in the future, you can make it work with this ruler. And if you don’t have an L-square, you definitely need this ruler that you can see through with measurement grid lines. You will use it all the time for drawing straight lines, squared lines and even lines on the bias.
Any time you’re dealing with plastic, there’s a possibility for breakage. But when you handle your tools with care, you should have no problem with this ruler breaking. I’ve had mine so long, the clear part has turned a yellow-ish color.
What: Straight Edge Ruler
Where: Buy at fabric stores, Walmart and Amazon (Don’t forget to comparison shop)
Cost: $6-$8, depending on the store
- L-Square (mini): I call this the mini L-square because it’s a smaller version of the larger 14″ x 24″ L-Square. This ruler is used to square lines, which is definitely required in patternmaking. You don’t have to buy it right away, as long as you have the straight edge I mentioned above. But I do suggest you get this one or the larger one in the future because it’s faster to use an L-square to square your lines. The mini L-square is a little cheaper than the the large one, so you could start there.
The mini L-square is a little flimsy. The plastic is not sturdy so be careful how you store it. But it works, especially for small pattern pieces.
What: L-square Ruler
Cost: $6.50 for 8 in x 12 in
- French Curve: This is also known as the french curve and there’s also a hip curve . I don’t have a hip curve because I use my curve for armholes as well as hip curves. This ruler gives you a nice curved lines for armholes and any other curved areas on your pattern. It is definitely needed, but you can start out with a small french curve.
If you buy a french curve on Amazon.com, be sure to check the reviews first. Sometimes they look good but the plastic is very flimsy or the measurements aren’t accurate. I was going to buy one from Amazon until I read a lot of bad reviews and saw some pictures that had warped plastic.
What: Curve Ruler
Where: Walmart for a small french curve, like the one pictured here, and Amazon or Walmart
Cost: $5+ for a small french curve, $11+ for large curve
If you’re going to be drafting your own patterns or altering commercial patterns, you’re definitely going to need plenty of muslin to test the fit of your garments. Muslin is a bleached or unbleached cotton fabric that’s used for a lot of things, but in patternmaking it’s used for test garments. It’s not as inexpensive as it used to be so I usually wait until it goes on sale and stock up.
Keep in mind, you don’t have to use just muslin to test-fit your garments. You can also go to your fabric stash, if you have one, and pull out the outdated fabric and use it, especially if it’s similar in weight to the fabric you’ll be using for your project. I’m talking about fabric that not even people looking for a deal at the thrift store would want. Oh wait, that’s an idea! If you don’t have a fabric stash yet, go to thrift stores or good-wills and look for inexpensive, machine washable fabric that will make a good test garment. I say machine washable just in case it looks like it needs a good washing before you use it. You don’t want to have to dry clean fabric you’re using for a test garment.
Another source of fabric to use for test garments is remnants from fabric stores. Remember, this is just for the purpose of test-fitting so it doesn’t have to be cute. Go look through the pile of remnants. You never know what you’ll find.
Where: fabric stores, Walmart and anywhere that sells discount fabric
Cost: Varies by store
Add This Patternmaking Tool to Your Wishlist
Curve Runner: The Curve Runner is a patternmaking tool I bought a couple of months ago. It was created by a woman named Claire Cochran and it’s used for measuring the curved areas of your pattern like the neckline and the armhole or sleeve. (It can also be used in other industries that have to measure curves.) I love this tool!
She also has other rulers she sells. For more information you can go to her Web site.
I can think of many times I had to adjust my sleeve ease and had to check and recheck the measurement by “walking” my tape measure around the sleeve or armhole. The Curve Runner would have made this so much faster. To check for accuracy of the Curve Runner, I measured with the tape measure first. The measurement was the same.
The plastic is sturdy and the quality is very good. The only thing I don’t like is that they don’t have one for people like me who are left handed. In the picture above, I’m using my right hand. I could use my left hand but the numbers will be backwards. It’s not a big deal, though. Hopefully, they’ll make one for us lefties soon.
When you start investing more money into your patternmaking tools, you should definitely put the Curve Runner on the list.
What: Curve Runner (Used for measuring curved areas of your pattern)
Cost: 8″ or 20 cm – $16.99 + shipping; 12″ or 30 cm – $19.99 + shipping
Watch the video where I talk about the last 3 budget-friendly patternmaking tools and show you how to use the Curve Runner.
Don’t forget to check out Part 1 if you missed it.
Which of the 7 patternmaking tools is your favorite? Or do you have a tool not on the list that’s your favorite? I would love to hear about it in the comments.
11 helpful sewing tools you can’t live without – Page 3 of 3
Tools for marking
There’s so many ways to mark your fabric and prep a pattern for sewing. These ones you should always have on hand.
8. Quilting rulers
I’ve used this one so much some of the lines have worn off!
Quilting rulers are incredibly helpful sewing tools. They come in so many widths and lengths.
They have extra markings for cutting fabric on the bias.
You can use them in place of a T-square.
Shoot, you can hang them on a wall.
I have several quilting rulers, but the one I can’t live without is this 3″x18″ one from O’lipfa. 3″x18″ is a great all-purpose size. I use it to make bias tape, cut waistbands and neckband. In my ruler collection, I have a larger 8.5″x24″ beast. The bigger ruler is more practical for checking grainlines and making big pattern pieces. For most things, it’s almost too much ruler.
Whatever size, find a ruler you like and stick with it.
9. French curve ruler
If you sew garments at all, a French curve ruler is a must. It can help you draw pretty curves akin to your own body’s curves for your arms and hips.
And they can be a shortcut to drawing a nice curve when you’re fitting a pattern. And if you draft your own patterns, a French curve will be invaluable.
I love the little graph paper-like 1/8″ squares that can help you add seam allowances quickly.
Want to change a neckline quick? Fix a hip curve? Change up a sleeve?Yup, your French curve has your back.
You + French curve =pattern hacking magic
10. Chalk wheel
My favorite all-around marking tool
You can fabric for your sewing projects with so many different types of pens. But the one marking tool I will always turn to is a chalk wheel.
They’re small and they make razor sharp lines without damaging fabric. It’s my favorite universal marking tool. I get my chalk wheels and extra chalk locally at Colorado Fabrics. This Dritz chalk wheel is similar. And here is some refill chalk. I’ve heard really good things about the Chakoner too.
The Simflex easily wins the competition for the coolest looking sewing gadget.
It’s an expandable gauge that you use to help mark where buttonholes go.
If you’ve ever tried to mark where buttonholes go from a paper pattern, you know that the paper can shift unless you’re really careful. What you can end up with is a hot mess of unevenly spaced buttonholes. Not so cute.
The Simflex works so well because you only need to know where your top buttonhole and the bottom buttonhole go. When you have those two anchors, expand the gauge and use the slots to mark the rest.
The max distance between buttonholes is 3.5″ for 8 buttons. If you need more space vertically between holes, you can simply measure between 2 holes and skip every other marking slot.
So those are the 11 helpful sewing tools I personally can’t live without. What about you? Tell me in the comments: which is your favorite sewing tool? Did your favorite make the list? Dish!!
More awesome sewing tools to try and compare
Elizabeth Farr is the writer behind the Elizabeth Made This blog where she shares helpful sewing tips, step by step sewing tutorials and videos to help you explore your creativity through sewing. She has written sewing Eguides and patterns, been a featured teacher at Rebecca Page’s Sewing Summit and Jennifer Maker’s Holiday Maker Fest and her work has appeared in Seamwork and Altered Couture magazines. She also created a line of refashioned garments for SEWN Denver. When her sewing machine isn’t humming, she’s playing and teaching violin, and hanging around a good strategic board game with her husband and 4 kids.
The Best Dang Pillow Tutorial – Using a ‘French Curve’
Home » Blog » DIY Ideas » The Best Dang Pillow Tutorial – Using a ‘French Curve’
I guess I’ve been on a bit of a pillow/farm animal binger here on Boxwood Avenue, but I figured I would finish the pillow I started in my TAP Tutorial and share a ‘how to’ with all of you!
You might be thinking: pillows are squares Chloe, we don’t exactly need you to tell us how to sew two squares together…but I am here to tell you, I am a pillow-maker gone rogue. Scandalous I know, but I never sew my pillows square. Maybe if someone offered me a million bucks I might change my ways, but that hasn’t happened yet, so as of now, I am a curvy pillow kinda woman.
I am part french, so it’s only natural for me to want to sew my pillows in a french manner right? I don’t remember where I learned this method (to the blog that originally taught me this, thank you!) but I haven’t looked back since. The french curve is actually a little contraption used to properly adjust patterns to fit your body perfectly. However, I use it loosely whenever I make pillows, as a way to sew them in a ‘billowy’ manner rather than perfectly square. The method I use is pretty franglish (because I don’t actually use the french curved piece of plastic), but if you want to purchase the real deal you can do so here.
I love using the french curve method for two big reasons: one, you don’t have to cut or sew perfectly to get get great results, and two, the pillow looks amazing when ‘karate chopped’ (you know what I am talking about right?). Side note: I hate sewing zippers (and button holes), so I avoid them at all costs. For this tutorial, I will be using an envelope back enclosure.
Step 1: Cut your fabric to fit whatever size insert you’re using. This is my formula: I add half an inch to the square size (so if you’ve got a 20 inch square insert, cut one piece of fabric 20.5 x 20.5 inches). This piece will be the front panel of your pillow. For the back pieces of the pillow I add 10 inches to the insert size, then divide by two, thus leaving me with the length for one piece of the envelope (if you’ve got a 20 inch square insert, add 10 inches – so 30 inches, then divide by two = 15 inches. So cut two pieces 20.5 inches x 15 inches).
Step 2: Iron and sew a 1 inch double hem on each piece of the ‘envelope’ (on the 20.5 in sides).
Step 3: Now lay your front panel pretty side UP, then layer your two back panels pretty side DOWN on top, and pin them together.
Step 5: This is where things get tricky, so please only use your best french accent while doing this part. Get a ruler and place it at the half way point, 1/4 inch in, on of one of the four sides. Raise the ruler up about an inch at the corner, but leave the part of the ruler that is marking the half way point just a 1/4 inch in. Now mark a line, repeat this for all four sides, in total you will be drawing eight lines (2 lines per side). Click on each picture to enlarge it, or check out the graphic from step one to see what the pillow will look like once all of your lines are drawn.
Step 6: Now go ahead and serge (or sew), the pillow together. I love my serger for this, but I always go back and topstitch my seams afterwards. Also when you serge, don’t use just one long seam. I go all the way down the entire edge, cut the thread, then start over for each side so I have a total of four separate seams (see what I mean below). This will make it so that the pillow won’t have ‘dog ears’ at the corners.
If you’re using a serger, go back and top stitch. Then flip her inside out, use the back end of your seam ripper to really crease the edges (or iron if you’re a maniac who loves ironing), and finish by stuffing her with a feather insert.
I hope I’ve converted all of you to my franglish method of sewing pillows, but lastly I must give a little public service announcement: can we please vow to stop using poly-fill inserts? They aren’t comfortable, and they make even $500/yard fabric look cheap. Invest in some great feather inserts and swap out the covers seasonally, but please, please stop using poly!!!
I love buying feather inserts from Online Fabric Store or PillowCubes, but you can usually find a great selection in the clearance section of TJ Maxx hidden behind damaged covers and priced at about $9. Okay okay off my soapbox. Now go be french!
Pattern Drafting Tools
A comprehensive look at pattern drafting tools and how they function in the studio.
Kraft Paper Paper for drafting patterns in a home studio is essential. Without it, it would be close to impossible. In the basic tools and supplies article, I review a few different types of paper and the benefits of each. So, the reason why paper is essential, for both flat pattern making and even draping, is because you need a medium to create the patterns, make adjustments to patterns, and to catalog styles. Today, a lot of professional pattern makers use software programs like Gerber to create their patterns. And that’s great, for professionals. But, quite frankly it’s very complicated and not necessary for the home apparel designer. Once you advance your skills, you can start transferring your patterns to a digital format. I simple trace my patterns in Adobe Illustrator to catalog and share them.
“L” Square The “L” square is one of the most basic of the pattern making rulers. This ruler helps to create accurate 90° angles and straight edges. It measures, rules, and squares simultaneously.
Hip Curve The hip curve helps to shape the hip line, hem, and lapels.
Vary Form The vary form ruler blends and shapes armholes, necklines, side seam curves, and more! Just as the name suggests, it does a variety of jobs!
French Curve Essential tool for accurately shaping armholes, necklines, and collars.
Dritz Design Ruler The Dritz styling design ruler is great because it combines the hip curve, vary form, french curve, and clear plastic ruler in one! I highly recommend getting yourself one of these awesome rulers!
Awl A handy tool and often overlooked, the awl will pierce a small hole in your pattern to indicate the end of a dart, pocket, trim, or button hole. The awl is also handy for scoring paper to fold, as well as “walking” your measuring tape around curves for accurate measuring.
Notcher The pattern notcher will create flawless pattern markings. For example, dart legs, seam allowance, center lines, ease, and to identify front from back patterns.
Tracing wheel Pointed and very sharp wheel transfers marking onto a clean sheet of paper. This tools is often used when retracing patterns or when transfer draped muslin onto paper.
Clear Plastic Ruler Perfect for measuring seam allowances and drawing dart legs.
If you find this post helpful, please comment, share, or pin!
Disclosure: Please note that some or all of the links contained in this post are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I might earn a commission if you decide to make a purchase. Please know that I have experience with all of these products and I feel confident recommending them to you because I have found them to be helpful and useful….Read more here.
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3 new tools to try on your next sewing project (and a discount code!)
Strangely enough, my first time trying pinking shears was only a few months ago when I ordered these Italian made beauties. I grew up with a serger in my house (thanks to my Mom’s nicely appointed sewing and craft room) and, even as a complete novice, used it to finish my seams. Not everyone is that lucky! Or perhaps not everyone wants a second machine gathering dust and leading to hours of frustrated attempts to change the thread color! I guess that depends on perspective…
Anyhow, you might like to consider pinking shears: An excellent and traditional way to minimise the fraying of woven fabrics.
Pinking shears were invented by Samuel Briskman in 1931. He was inspired by the serration on a bread knife that he had bought for his wife. His invention was patented and used enthusiastically by textile manufacturers and home sewers alike until the development of serging. You can read Mr. Briskman’s obituary for more details on his invention here.
The simplicity and effectiveness of pinking shears for finishing woven seam allowance is really appealing to me, even as the owner of a brand new serger. I like how pinking shears can be used to both finish and notch curved seams simultaneously. I think a pinked seam allowance looks quite charming! And I love pinking fabric samples when I create mood boards or scrap books (or send fabric samples to you guys when you are wishing to feel the fabrics that we have in our shop!).
The Gingher pair that I have just added to our shop (and my own sewing kit!) are exceptionally nice. They have blunt tips that will not snag delicate fabrics, very sharp blades, and a hard wearing double-plated chrome-over-nickel finish. Plus…they have a lifetime warranty!
Another classic tool that I have added to our shop and have used far more frequently throughout my sewing career is a set of french curve rulers. This clear plastic set by Bohin features the three most common shapes and sizes of french curve. I find it really handy to have this set in my toolbox to pair with my large dressmakers curve (which is a metal ruler with one gradual curve…it looks a little bit like a very subtle lower case “r”). The smaller curves found on these french curve rulers allow you to draft or adjust a greater variety of details – for example, when a side seam is moved forward or backwards on a garment (such as the Goldstream Peacoat), the bottom of the armhole features a pretty sharp curve. My dressmaker’s curve does not match something like this, so, without my french curves I would be left to imprecisely draw the curve by hand! French curves are also useful for drawing pocket shapes, collars, armholes, necklines and hem curves.
Moving away from traditional tools, the last item I want to show you today is my favourite – a flexible curved ruler!
It is amazing for fitting and adjusting existing patterns. You can bend it around your body to get an accurate representation of your crotch curve, hip curve or any other curve. Then, simply lay that curve on the relevant pattern piece to see if the pattern matches the shape of your body! If it doesn’t, your curved ruler is all ready to go…it is firm enough that you can use it just like you would a metal or wood straight ruler. Push your pencil against it and draw your new curve.
Aside from visually representing curves, you can also use this ruler to measure existing curves. For example, if you would like to check that the armhole and sleeve seams are the same length just bend the ruler along the seams and measure in either metric or imperial.
Here is a great post (filled with photos) during which Becca demonstrates how to use a flexible ruler to perfectly fit a trouser pattern to her body.
Well, there you go – I hope you’ve been introduced to a new tool or perhaps reminded of an old one today!
Head to our shop to peruse our growing collection of sewing tools. They are 10% off this weekend if you use the discount code USEFULTOOLS
Categories: Thread Theory News | Tags: sewing tools | Permalink.
Best value french curve rulers – Great deals on french curve rulers from global french curve rulers sellers
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AliExpress will never be beaten on choice, quality and price. Every day you’ll find new, online-only offers, store discounts and the opportunity to save even more by collecting coupons. But you may have to act fast as this top french curve rulers is set to become one of the most sought-after best-sellers in no time. Think how jealous you’re friends will be when you tell them you got your french curve rulers on AliExpress. With the lowest prices online, cheap shipping rates and local collection options, you can make an even bigger saving.
If you’re still in two minds about french curve rulers and are thinking about choosing a similar product, AliExpress is a great place to compare prices and sellers. We’ll help you to work out whether it’s worth paying extra for a high-end version or whether you’re getting just as good a deal by getting the cheaper item. And, if you just want to treat yourself and splash out on the most expensive version, AliExpress will always make sure you can get the best price for your money, even letting you know when you’ll be better off waiting for a promotion to start, and the savings you can expect to make.AliExpress takes pride in making sure that you always have an informed choice when you buy from one of hundreds of stores and sellers on our platform. Every store and seller is rated for customer service, price and quality by real customers. Plus you can find out the store or individual seller ratings, as well as compare prices, shipping and discount offers on the same product by reading comments and reviews left by users. Every purchase is star-rated and often has comments left by previous customers describing their transaction experience so you can buy with confidence every time. In short, you don’t have to take our word for it – just listen to our millions of happy customers.
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90,000 its features + a cheat sheet with 23 ways of application – Master classes on BurdaStyle.ru
A quill pen, or a French pattern, is a fairly versatile tool. We consider its features and main ways of application.
Features of the French pattern
A French pattern is also called a feather pattern or French feather – indeed, its shape looks like a feather. This transparent (most often the nib is made of colorless plastic) curved ruler has a lot of functions. The bend of the curve of the French feather is different in its different parts. Knowing the basic rules, you can build a pattern from scratch or adjust an existing pattern by drawing smooth, even and clear lines along the pattern. With the help of the French pen, you can design the lines of the armholes, sleeves, waist lines, necklines, build and adjust the patterns of skirts, dresses and trousers.
Also, the curved edge and the round head of the French pattern will help you round off the corner by drawing a rounded line along a larger or smaller diameter.On the curved side of the pen piece, there is a centimeter marking, which is also very convenient.
The straight side of the French pattern is usually also marked (in centimeters and millimeters). As a rule, the length of the straight side is 40 cm. Thus, you can also use a pen-pattern as a regular ruler – both for drawing straight lines, and for measuring distances, marking allowances, and so on. The opposite edge of the rounded French nib is often cut at right angles: it can be used as a square ruler.Some models of such a piece also have a “built-in” protractor (a tool for measuring angles), narrow cuts parallel to the straight side can be made on the piece (they make it easier to draw parallel lines, mark seam allowances, and so on).
Using a pen pattern for building and adjusting patterns: a cheat sheet scheme
1. Armhole line decoration
2. Waist line decoration
3. Design of the okat sleeve
4, 5. Neck decoration
6. Skirt side seam correction
7. Skirt side seam correction + waist line
8. Waistline correction
9. Skirt side seam decoration
10. Waist line decoration
11. Tuck design
12, 13, 14. Change of throat line
15, 16. Correction of the line of the sleeve ridge
17, 18. Change / correction of armhole line
19 . Skirt pattern making
20, 21. Change of sleeve pattern
22. Building a shelf pattern
23. Back pattern making
Preview photo: christelleben.blogspot.com
How can you cover the seams in euro windows
How to fix, cover up, eliminate cracks in windows, repair
The most vulnerable place for heat loss in a house is windows.It is difficult to provide complete insulation of heat and noise in a given location, but maximum performance can be achieved. The reason for the increased noise and drafts is cracks in the windows. The problem is relevant for old wooden openings and new metal-plastic structures.
Reasons for the formation of cracks
The first sign of an increase in cracks is dust on the windowsill, which appears a short time after wiping. Also, a violation of the tightness is evidenced by fogging of glasses, drafts and noise.The biggest problem is the appearance of streaks on the wallpaper under the windowsill and mold.
To close up the cracks, it is important to find out the reason for their appearance:
- Violation of installation rules . With an unprofessional installation, large, poorly foamed gaps remain between the wall and the glass unit. The mounting material dries out over time, the window is skewed and cracks form. A candle will help to check the tightness. Pass the flame of a candle or lighter along the joints. The outside of the frame must be tightly foamed, putty and plastered.
- Worn seal . The rubber bands can crack, pop out of the groove and tear. Untreated material is destroyed by sun, snow and rain. It is important to apply a layer of plaster or paint from the outside to protect the seal.
- Hardware wear . Natural wood frames are subject to adverse environmental influences. The tree dries out during operation, the cracks increase. For plastic structures of willows, rubber bands of a seal, locks and latches come into disrepair.
How to seal the cracks in plastic windows inside the apartment
To insulate plastic windows from inside the room, it is better to choose a light and effective sealant. Lightweight and elastic materials lie flat on the inside of the plastic surface, quickly adhere materials and last for a long time.
- Silicone – suitable for indoor and outdoor use. It repels water, does not collapse from precipitation, and stays longer in direct sunlight.After cooling, the mass remains plastic, therefore it transfers shrinkage, expansion-narrowing of the gap.
Acrylic – adheres to pvc, wood, metal and glass. Suitable for indoor use on drywall. It is easy to paint and does not have a strong toxic odor. The material hardens, so it can crack from the deformation of the glass unit.
- Thiokol – the degree of plasticity can be adjusted independently. The mixture will withstand temperatures of -48 + 128 ℃.
- Polyurethane – quickly adheres to textured surfaces and glues any materials. Dries quickly, easily stains. Elastic after drying, does not shrink.
- Acrylate – Apply by gun or trowel. After drying, the surface is rubbed, which is important when insulating slopes. Repels moisture, withstands low temperatures. Option “Stiz-A” is best found for outdoor work, and “Stiz-V” for interior decoration.
Order of work:
- Remove debris and dirt from the inside from the gap, degrease the area, wipe dry.
- Cut the tube with sealant at an angle, cover the gap with a thin layer.
- Align the seam in a single motion, remove excess sealant from the frame.
Align with the edge of a coin. The composition ensures the tightness of the seams for about 1-2 years. When cleaning or washing, the sealed putty begins to separate from the frame and window sill material, darkens and becomes dirty.
Sealing window gaps between the slope and the frame
Sealing gaps in windows can be done without the involvement of professional craftsmen.For a cosmetic express method for solving the problem, you need to perform a step-by-step algorithm of actions:
- Cover the frame with masking tape to protect it at a distance of no more than 2 mm from the gap. If the slope after embedding is not planned to be painted, it should also be covered with masking tape.
- Fill the gap with frost-resistant acrylic based sealant. It is better to refuse silicone sealant. It is not suitable for the low temperatures of frosty winters.
- Dip a brush in water, smooth the sealant to a smooth surface.
- Wait for the sealant to dry completely, paint over the treatment area.
- Tear off the masking tape.
For a thorough repair of a window in an apartment you need:
- Deepen the gap to check the quality of the foaming of the joints between the slopes and the glass unit.
- Clean the gaps from the remaining polyurethane foam. Go over the gutter with a brush.
- Blow out the correct amount of fresh foam by flattening the nozzle of the gun tube with your fingers.
- Cut off the protruding parts with a utility knife the next day after drying.
- Cut the can of sealant at an angle, apply the mixture over the foam. If desired, coat the foam trail with grout.
- Clean up leftovers with a rag and white spirit.
- After drying, proceed to plastering the slopes and painting with alkyd paint.
Important! It is better to carry out major repair actions in the warm season, so that the walls of the building are warmed up throughout their entire thickness.
Sealing between sashes and frame
Gaps between the frame and window sashes are caused by wear or defects in the rubber seal. To plug the cracks, you need to replace it with a wooden spatula.
- Carefully remove the worn seal from the grooves in the frame.
- Vacuum the remaining gaps and wipe inside and out with a damp cloth.
- Insert the new rubber seal firmly into the groove with a wooden spatula.
- To extend the service life, spray once a year with a silicone-based spray to prevent the material from drying out.
Features of wood windows insulation
Cracks in wood windows appear due to deformation of natural material. Repair rules include several simple methods.
Paper and newspaper tubes
A budgetary way to close up wooden windows is to fill the cracks with paper.
Methods of sealing:
- Roll up paper (remnants of wallpaper, old newspapers) with thin cords and ram it between the frame and the doors.To make the material more densely penetrated into the gap, it is convenient to advance it with a thin ruler, a sharp screwdriver or other thin instrument.
- Soak paper cuts in liquid and squeeze. Pour 2 parts of crushed chalk to the mass. The result is a convenient putty that can easily close the thinnest seam.
- Moisten cut newspaper strips or pieces of white paper with soapy water and apply to cracks. In an improved version, stick masking tape. In this case, the shutters cannot be opened for ventilation; adhesive marks may remain on the frames.
Cotton wool can be used to close wide and thin gaps. The plastic material is characterized by high thermal insulation. Glue paper strips or tape on top. It is also easy to glue or nail the cord into the gaps.
The material is suitable if wide gaps appear in the window opening. It is important to evenly and tightly glue the foam rubber tapes in problem areas so that the frames close well with high quality tightness. After installing the tape, the window is easy to open.
- Measure the tape thickness and length. The width corresponds in compressed form to the width of the window voids, and the length corresponds to the perimeter of the sashes.
- Clean the areas of application from dust and dirt, coat with acetone.
- Remove the protective paper layer from the sticky part of the tape, glue the foam rubber to the surface.
Sealing gaps and cracks in windows between glass and wood is more convenient to use with sealant. The work consists of steps:
- Dismantle the glazing beads and thin strips that hold the glass around the perimeter.It is better to buy new elements, as the tree breaks when removed.
- Remove dust from the glass seating area, apply an even layer of silicone and return the glass to its place. Spread with a spatula or ruler.
- Nail in new wooden glazing beads.
Important! All manipulations are best done with heavy construction gloves.
Natural wood frames with wide gaps are easier to seal with foam.
Nuances of work:
- Seal the slots from the bottom up.
- The foam grows during solidification, therefore it is better to close the gaps by 1/3 of the volume.
- It is better to perform work at a room temperature of + 5 + 30 ℃.
- Top off the dried layer with a knife and cover with finishing material.
You can increase the thermal insulation with a foil that works like a double-glazed window when glued to the frame: it allows heat to pass through and prevents drafts due to metal spraying. The film does not distort the glass optics and is easy to clean.
The coating will prevent glass from crumbling when broken. Pieces of glass remain in the film. It is important to stick the film correctly, without bubbles, with the metallized part facing out. It is better to carry out work with gloves so that there are no fingerprints on the film surface.
To increase noise and heat insulation in an apartment, it is necessary to determine the cause of cracks and drafts. Based on the problem, insulate plastic windows with foam or sealant. Remove cracks from wooden frames with putty, foam tapes, paper or foil.For prevention, you need to install double-glazed windows, control their quality and systematic care.
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How to use Masonite as a wall and how to close the seams?
Mazonite is a durable material for building walls.
Masonite is a product most commonly used as outdoor siding, but is also used for other projects such as interior walls, underlayment or shelving construction.Masonite is produced by the Mason method invented by William H. Mason, by blasting wood chips and turning them into long fibers with steam. The fibers are then formed into boards or sheets. Masonite sheets are available in various types and grades and are a good alternative to traditional drywall building material. It is relatively inexpensive, durable and paintable. Using the right tools and materials, you can build a masonite wall and close the seams, giving your home an attractive look.
SEAM TOLERANCE | How to add and sew
Seam allowance of the sewing pattern is just extra space around the stitching lines and the raw edge. This lets you know how far from the trimmed raw edge you will be sewing the seam.
What is a seam allowance?
A seam allowance is the space between the trimmed raw edge and the line you will be sewing.This helps to determine the final size and shape of the product, and also takes into account the scuffs around the edges.
Why is it important?
Using the wrong seam allowance means your garment may be too large or too small, so it is important to learn how to add the seam allowance correctly and how to sew the correct seam size.
Compliance with the seam allowance allows the fabric to wear out without affecting the integrity of the product. The seams may need to be trimmed or opened for various purposes, and the pattern designer will take this into account in their decisions.
Standard seam allowance
Unfortunately, there is no universally correct seam allowance.
It’s important to note that different designers have different rules, so it’s always important to check them carefully before starting cutting. The seam allowance is always indicated in the pattern notes at the beginning of the pattern.
The actual seam allowance will also vary depending on the project. Knitted patterns tend to have smaller seam allowances than woven patterns.Also, a small item like a hair bow may have a smaller seam to reduce bulk.
Most designers maintain a constant seam allowance throughout the pattern, but there may be times when it changes for a particular step. This will be clearly stated in your template.
European designers usually add NO seam allowance to their patterns and you need to add it manually before sewing. In the “How to add a seam allowance” section, I will show you how to do this.
Burda Style Magazine patterns usually do NOT have seam allowances. Simplicity, New Look and Butterick add them altogether.
Treasurie and My Childhood Treasures patterns
All my patterns include seam allowances, which means you don’t need to change the pattern in any way. You just cut the pattern and start sewing.
Generally, Treasurie and My Childhood Treasures (MCT) patterns have the following seam allowance.
(There are always exceptions, so check your template before starting.)
- Fabric: 1/2 “(12mm)
- Knitwear: 3/8″ (1cm)
- Swimwear: 1/4 “(12mm)
- Doll Clothes : 1/4 “(6mm)
- Clutches / Bags: 3/8″ (1cm)
HOW TO ADD A WATCH TOLERANCE
If you have a pattern from a designer that needs to be seam, here’s what you need to do. You can first add a seam allowance directly to the fabric or paper.
Regular seams (side seams and shoulders)
Use this method to add seams for armholes, shoulders and side seams. There is another method of hemming and pleating, which will be discussed in the following sections.
How to add a seam allowance
If you have an edge, you may need an additional seam allowance. Your template instructions should state how much. If not, try adding 2cm of hem. This allows the edge to be rotated twice.Once 1/4 “(6 mm), then 1/2” (12 mm) again.
If you need to add a seam allowance for a corner piece such as sleeves, continuing at the same angle means the hem will become too narrow when folded. You will need to tilt the edge outward as shown.
How to add a seam allowance on a hem
HOW TO ADD A SEAM allowance | Hacks
1. Marking Hack
Use this simple sewing tip. Add seam allowance by connecting 2 pencils with an elastic band.
Use one to mark and the other to draw around the edge.
Hack: Use 2 pencils to mark the seam
2. Distance Hack
New craftsmen may want to attach a piece of colored tape along the seam guide they will be using. You can use masking tape if you are worried about it marking your machine.
I have seen some people recommend using rubber bands to mark distances, but in my experience the rubber bands move around and this can lead to a loss of accuracy.The piece of scotch tape won’t go anywhere!
Outsole: Mark seam with tape.
MAKING THE CORRECT TOLERANCE ON SW.
After you cut the fabric, you will need to sew it together using the correct seam allowance.
If you look at the plate of your sewing machine, you will see that there are different numbers and lines marked there. These are the seam guides.
With the needle in the center position, you must align the raw edges of the fabric with the appropriate seam allowance guide.Start sewing keeping the same distance.
Now that you are ready to sew, I have a whole article on how to sew a seam. This will show you the correct position and settings, as well as a few tricks and tips for making a perfectly straight seam.
Now that you have added a seam allowance, the next step is to start cutting the fabric. Here’s an article showing which direction to place the pattern and tricks like cutting at the fold.
Cutting fabrics for sewing
MORE FOR BEGINNERS
Seam allowance and how to align the seam line every time
What is a seam allowance?
Seam allowance is the distance between the seam line and the cut edge of the fabric. The most common seam allowances used when joining fabric pieces are 1/4 “, 1/2” and 5/8 “.
Every sewing textbook / book mentions seam allowance, emphasizing its importance in sewing. But a beginner sewing may be surprised at the fuss.Is the seam allowance so important? Why don’t you just leave some fabric off the stitching line and leave it as it is. No, you cannot do that and yes, it is very important.
The seam allowance is there for a reason. You need enough space between the trimmed edge and the stitching line to accommodate fabric abrasion ; You need enough fabric when you need to smooth the seam ; You will need enough fabric around the edge when the seam allowances are joined together to make the front of fabric look seamless after you open the seam. You will also need enough seam allowance to cover the edges of cut fabric .
For flat chopped seams and other attractive seam surfaces, you need to have enough seam allowance to lie within the folds of the fabric. You want a consistent seam allowance so that the seam line does not look wobbly or poorly fitted.
When you sew clothes or quilts from ready-made patterns purchased from the store, it is very important to observe the seam allowance indicated on the pattern; otherwise, you may end up with mismatched seam lines.
You want all the elements of the pattern to match, right?When sewing yourself, you can adjust the seam allowance as you see fit, but it is advisable that it stays the same throughout the project.
What are the commonly used seam allowances?
The seam method is one of the important factors affecting the seam allowance size. Check out the different ways to sew seams – there are about 17 ways. Some seams are better suited for specific projects than others. Choose the one that’s right for you and it will determine the correct seam allowance you should use.For example, a French seam will require a different seam allowance than a butt seam.
In clothing, I usually leave a seam allowance 1/2 “for straight seams and 1/4″ for curls such as armholes and collars. In commercial sewing patterns, this seam allowance is typically 5/8 in. . This is one more than 1/2 inch mark on the tape measure. If you are unsure how to do this, check out our blog post on Reading Roulette.
When quilting or cutting pieces of fabric for patchwork, a seam allowance is usually applied 1/4 inch ; sometimes even 1/8 inch is used.For home decor accessories, use a wider seam allowance such as 3/4 “or 1” .
Sometimes a seam allowance is deliberately left larger than the pattern to accommodate the weight / size increase, for example for a baby dress. A large seam allowance is deliberately used, especially when sewing rather tight garments – you may need to release some or allow for shrinkage of the fabric. When sewing with fabrics that wear easily, you should leave some extra in case the seam allowance breaks down.
Be sure to process the edges of the seam allowance; this is one of the basic principles when you want your sewing to look professional. You can use zigzag stitches for overcasting or regular zigzag stitches on sewing machines for overcasting. Here you can see other options for finishing the edge of the fabric.
How to get a straight and accurate seam line
Seam allowance and accuracy are especially important when aligning seam points and sewing – as you do when making a quilt or joining pieces when sewing clothes.When quilting, it is very important that the seams match so that the details of the pattern match.
On most sewing machines, the throat plate usually has seam allowance marks under the needle. You only need to hold the edge of the fabric at the desired mark, for example 1/2 “, and your machine will sew a seam line with a 1/2” seam allowance. This is a good way to keep your stitching straight. However, you need to make sure that the measurements on your machine are correct (on some machines this is not the case).
1/4 ” foot (also called quarter-inch foot or quilting foot) is a great help in getting the correct seam allowance. It has a dedicated hem that ensures you always sew with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Another presser foot that is great for maintaining a consistent seam allowance is the hem sewing foot.
The walking foot has a sewing guide.
In addition, there are seam guides with screws or snaps, , to ensure that the seam line does not move. Some smart souls even use rubber bands , surrounding them
FRENCH SEAM | The best way to sew a French stitch
French stitch is typically used for light and sheer fabrics such as silk and chiffon, where traditional stitching methods will be visible on the right side of the fabric.They are also great for items that need to be washed many times, such as pillowcases. Read this simple tutorial how to sew French stitch .
How to Sew a French Stitch Tutorial
What is a French Stitch?
French stitch is a type of seam finish used when sewing where the raw edges on the inside are completely covered with an extra row of stitches.
This creates a seam that is much stronger than most other seam finishes, and the item or articles of clothing look just as attractive on the inside as they do on the outside.
What are French stitches used for?
French seams are usually used on straight seams rather than curved seams. It can also be used successfully on corners.
It is better suited for light to medium sized fabrics as heavy fabrics increase the volume of the closed seam.
Further Reading: Curve Sewing and Cutting Sewing
Use a French stitch for:
- Pillowcase seams as they will be washed many times
- Transparent fabrics that would otherwise fray and look unattractive
- Delicate delicate fabrics such as silk and chiffon, where the overlock will create unwanted puffiness and show the stitching on the other side.
- Linen seams where excessive abrasion occurs on the edges.
- Straight side seams on children’s clothing. Children’s clothing is washed more often, so durability is very important.
French Stitches – How to Sew a French Stitch Video
Here’s a short video I made to show you how quick and easy it is to sew a French stitch. Like most of my videos, it’s only about 3 minutes long and gets straight to the point. I know you’re busy!
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French Stitches VIDEO
French Stitches – Photo Tutorial
Here are the steps for how to sew a French stitch . First, grab a piece of fabric to practice and make sure it’s the right stitch for your sewing project.
STEP 1. Sew the seam.
Pin the WRONG sides of the fabric together.
IMPORTANT (French stitches and regular stitches) – This is the biggest difference between French stitches and regular stitches.Usually you start with the RIGHT sides together to sew the seam. With French seams, you start with the WRONG sides together. This may seem a little odd at first, but you will quickly get used to the difference.
Sew a seam. Your seam allowance should be 1/4 inch (6 mm) less than the seam allowance indicated in the pattern. If your pattern has small seam allowances of less than 1/2 inch (12 mm), you may need to add a little more.
- For 1/2 “(12mm) seam allowance – now sew 1/4” (6mm) from edge
- For 5/8 “(1.5cm) seam allowance – now sew 3/8 ” (10mm) from the edge.
STEP 2 – Cut the French seams
Cut the seam allowance to 1/8 “(3mm).
Use sharp scissors to get a neat clean edge, and be careful not to damage the raw edges in the next few steps to prevent re-rubbing.
Trimming corners: If you are doing French seams on a piece with corners (for example, on the corners of a pillowcase), be sure to also trim the corner diagonally to reduce the volume.
STEP 3 – Opening the seam
Opening the seam with a seam allowance on one side. Make sure the seam is straight and straight.
Use an up and down pressure motion rather than pulling the iron along the seam.
Further Reading : Pressing for Sewing
STEP 4 – Squeeze the right sides together
Squeeze the fabric in half with the RIGHT side together and the seam at the edge.
Make sure the seam is at the very edge and not at the side for best results.
STEP 5 – Sew French Stitches
Sew the seam again 1/4 inch (6 mm) from the folded edge of the seam.
Using a 1/4 in. (6 mm) foot can help maintain width accuracy.
The previous seam allowance will be clamped in the fold. It is important to sew carefully, otherwise small tufts of raw edges will stick out through the seam.
STEP 6 – Final Press
Unclench the seam again, leaving a seam allowance on one side.
Turn the garment over and finally iron the inside of the seam for a nice and flat finish.
Now you can get professional finishing of French seams on your next project!
French seams – ideal back and front
French seams for bends
Although French seams are best for straight seams, they can be used on very gentle bends. If you are sewing sharp bends, you are better off using a different seam finish such as overlock or bevel seams.
If you want to make French seams in a gentle curve, pay special attention to step 2 , where you will need to trim as close to the seam as possible.
Also, in step 2, insert a few small clips into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut the stitching line. (Read Scrapbook Patterns)
French Stitch Pillowcase Patterns
Now you know how to sew a French stitch, why not put your new skills to the test. I have a full blog post on how to make a French stitch pillowcase.
They are really durable in wash and are great for beginners sewing. Add lace or trim around the edge to make it interesting and unique.There are cutting instructions for both pillowcase patterns, so you can make them in different sizes.
Pillowcase Patterns on My Blog
- French Stitch Pillowcases
- Border Pillowcases
Why not try French stitching on the side seams of a Taylor skirt? This is a FREE Tutu Skirt Pattern!
Other seam articles
- Flat rebate seam
- Trim sewing
- Edge stitch
- Understitch stitch
- Top stitch
- Remaining stitch
- 9010 Bias stitch
- 9010 Bias stitch
On self-expression, cutting and sewing
A few centuries ago, people strove to ensure that fashionable clothes would be not only functional, but also beautiful. At first glance, all clothes in one way or another just cover the human body and warm it, but there is a huge difference between an ordinary dress and a dress that makes you look after you.
In the past, clothes were transformed from boring to interesting with the help of the art of decoration. Fancy “gadgets” such as laces, ribbons, braids and tassels are all excellent examples of finishes used by “high” couture houses in the 18th century.But today’s fashion does not regard all of these jewelry and accessories above as something out of the ordinary. This is due to the fact that the development of sewing and finishing has risen to an even higher level.
In the early epochs, the costume did not change much, although peculiar “mannequins” – figurines made of burnt clay 18-25 cm high, which the Romans sent to the provinces instead of pictures depicting fashion – have come down to us from time immemorial.
The emergence of fashion can be conditionally attributed to the Renaissance, whose culture was based on a secular nature and a humanistic worldview.
The Renaissance (Renaissance), which arose in Italy in the 15th century, was filled with faith in the limitless possibilities of man, his will and mind.
, thoughts, this epoch has put Man to an unprecedented heights. The costumes of the Renaissance period have fascinated artists for many centuries, forcing them to turn again and again to velvet, embroidery in gold and silver, and exquisite jewelry.
Over the next decades, fashion was in turn in the hands of the British, French, Spaniards and again Italians.
Starting from the XVII Art. France becomes the dominant center of fashion due to its geographical position, ancient traditions of highly developed textile production and the skillful work of Parisian tailors and seamstresses. The eccentric ideas of Paris are taken up by the whole world. In France, mannequins appear on which clothes were delivered to the capitals of different states, including Russia. Peter the Great ordered all residents to wear “German and French dresses from Upper Saxony” by a special decree. Gradually, in Russia, its own centers for the manufacture of fabrics, shoes, and jewelry begin to appear.Petersburg, the young capital of Russia, becomes the trendsetter.
Self-expression is an integral part of every person. After all, man is a Microcosm, which contains colossal possibilities, Beauty and Perfection. The way we choose in life depends on how well each of us has developed the ability to express ourselves. The ability to express ideological feelings with the help of color and form is manifested in the desire of a person to paint, the inner musical vision determines the development of musical talents, jewelry masters subtly feel the “soul” of metals and minerals.Each work reflects the soul of the master, the trends of the era, all the diversity of the world around us.
Fashion Designers create amazing and varied forms of clothing. Modern fashion is characterized by a variety of ideas and unlimited freedom of choice. Each person can choose for himself an attractive and organically reflecting his individuality style, shape, cut of clothes, color scheme.
Changeable fashion has its own tendencies. Today it is more democratic – each person differs in appearance, temperament and character, in belonging to a particular sphere of work and, finally, simply in his attitude towards clothing and fashion.All over the world, the ability to adapt new fashion trends, basic ideas for themselves, while emphasizing their individual and unique style, is appreciated.
Designing is talent, obsession and passion. But the technique of cutting and sewing can be mastered, while having the intention to study all the patterns, go through the path of trial and error, improving skills. This is the path from artisan to master – everyday work to the heights of mastery! And this is within the power of those who want to dress beautifully, express their attractiveness, create such clothes that evoke a feeling of lightness, self-confidence, because in the process of creating it, a piece of your soul will be woven into every seam, into every bend …
On our site there is a complete basic course in cutting, having mastered which, you can learn how to model and design clothes for yourself, your family, relatives and friends.The material is presented in a logical sequence, so you need to master it starting from the very first sections.
Blog – Courses of cutting and sewing in Moscow
From the main and lining fabrics, 2 parts of the body of a ladybug should be cut out. A seam allowance of 1 cm should be given only for a straight cut of the parts. On the outer curved cut, the toy will be edged with an inlay, and therefore there is no need for processing allowance.
From soft black felt you need to cut out 2 parts of the ladybug’s head.For all cuts, add 7 mm for processing.
12 “dots” must be cut out of hard black felt – circles with a diameter of 4 cm.
6 of them must be stitched with rigid Velcro.
Then you need to prepare a bias binding for edging the toy. To do this, cut a strip of cotton fabric 3 cm wide, placing it at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp thread. The length of the strip should be slightly more than the length of the body of the ladybug (you need to measure it with a centimeter tape).
Then the strip must be ironed in half along the entire length, and then each side of it must be ironed in half again.
The torso details from the main fabric should be duplicated with an adhesive pad.
Then you can start assembling the toy.
The top piece and lining piece taken by a pair, “facing” each other, must be swept to the zipper tape, as shown in the photo. The lock itself should be located between the layers of fabric.
After that, you need to lay the machine line at a distance of 1 cm from the straight cut of the parts, and remove the threading.
Then the parts of the body must be turned away so that the face is outside and ironed on.
Sew the other half of the ladybug’s torso in the same way.
A finishing stitch must be given along the seams of the zipper.
For the convenience of further processing, the layers of the top and lining can be fastened together along the perimeter with neat hand stitches.
On the resulting back of the insect, you need to mark and scribble round “dots” of soft Velcro. It is best to sew them with a zig-zag seam.
After that, you need to process the tummy of the ladybug. For this purpose, first the fabric of the top must be folded in layers (face down), then a thin synthetic winterizer, then the lining (face up), and on top of the back (face up).
All layers must be stitched together with a sweeping stitch.
Excess fabric and zippers should be trimmed. The ends of the lock should be secured with neat hand stitches or glue.
From the side of the back, the upper part of the ladybug’s head must be sewn with a machine stitch. The outer sections of the head must be bent 7 mm towards the wrong side, as shown in the photo.
From the side of the tummy, the lower part of the head must be sewn in the same way.
Reps tape must be cut into 6 equal parts.
Then you need to prepare the legs for the ladybug.
Between pairs of felt circles – “dots” (one of them – with already stitched rigid Velcro), put the end of the rep tape. Then both parts must be fastened together with a machine stitch laid 2 mm from the edge.
The paws, as well as a small loop of satin ribbon, should be evenly distributed along the entire perimeter of the body from the side of the insect’s tummy, securing their ends with pins.
After that, you need to edge the body of the ladybug with a pre-prepared bias tape. You need to start and finish the edging from the insect’s head.
An antennae can be made from the remains of the bias inlay. A piece of tape must be sewn on a sewing machine and then manually fastened in the center of the head, folded in half.
The next step is to manually, with small blind stitches, sew up the ladybug’s head, bending the seam allowances inward.Leaving a small area unstitched, you need to fill your head with pieces of padding polyester through it. The end of the cord must also be inserted there. After that, the hole must be tightly sewn up.
The head of a ladybug should be decorated with large eyes made of hard white felt and black buttons. The ends of the tendril cords should be tied to avoid shedding.
Hang a carabiner on the eyelet made of a narrow satin ribbon. The free end of the cord should be carefully sewn to the carabiner.This will be the handle of the purse.
Ribbon “feet” with felt “dots” should be stuck on the back of the insect.
An educational toy-bag in the shape of a ladybug is completely ready.
Do-it-yourself seat upholstery
Welcome to the blog kuzov.info!
In this article, we will take a closer look at how do-it-yourself seat hauling is carried out.
The upholstery may be required due to wear and damage to the factory upholstery, as well as because of the desire to change the upholstery material and color.Padding of interior panels and seat upholstery allows you to personalize the cabin and reflect the personal preferences of the car enthusiast.
Most often, the old fabric upholstery is changed to leather.
To tighten the interior, you can give the car to professionals, or try to update the interior yourself. A beginner shouldn’t expect flawless results on the first try. Do-it-yourself seat upholstering requires certain knowledge, necessary tools and materials.In this article, we’ll go over a basic knowledge of this topic to help you understand the constriction process.
Contents of the article:
In general, hauling car seats with your own hands requires patience and accuracy. Changing the seat upholstery is the most difficult process when re-tightening the interior. You need to be ready to rework the unsuccessful work. If you are serious about the process of seat constriction, then you will be surprised how you can transform the cabin yourself.
So where to start hauling? First of all, you need to plan the whole process. It is necessary to buy a sufficient amount of material, prepare a workplace, prepare the necessary tools. It is better to additionally buy a less expensive material and practice making seams, before starting a constriction with a new, more expensive material. For seating, you may need about 8-10 square meters. meters of upholstery material. It is better to take material with a margin.The stock is necessary, as a certain percentage of the material will be spent on trimming and possible errors. Genuine leather, for example, may have some slight imperfections, so not all leather can be used.
Tools required for seat upholstering
- Sewing machine. This is the most expensive device needed to create new upholstery. A simple home sewing machine may not be able to handle all materials. It can sew fabric and artificial leather, but it will not master natural leather and several layers at the same time.There may be skipped stitches and misalignment of the upper layer of the fabric relative to the lower one. The sewing machine must have a special foot (walking foot). It helps to sew multiple layers of fabric without moving them. She walks, as it were, climbs over all layers of any thickness. This foot mechanism is designed for sewing thick, durable, multi-layer fabrics. The walking foot synchronizes the movement of the bottom and top layers when sewing.The material does not wrinkle and the seam is very even. Some non-professional household sewing machines may use a special connector to add a “walking” foot. If you plan to sew upholstery all the time, then you need a professional machine. As a more affordable option, you can buy a used sewing machine in good condition, especially suitable for sewing upholstery materials. Examples of suitable sewing machines include Consew 206 RB-4, Seiko STH 88, Singer 211, Juki LU562….
The walking foot consists of two independent “legs”. When the needle is raised, the presser foot lowers and presses down on the fabric. When lowering the needle foot, the presser foot rises. When lowering, the foot with the needle is clearly aligned with the material motor below, the needle at this moment makes a puncture and the foot with the needle moves along with the material, as if “walking”.
- Tailor’s cut scissors.They are capable of cutting a variety of upholstery materials such as leather, textiles, vinyl, as well as cardboard for templates. These scissors can be purchased at a specialist store.
- Special pliers for hog rings holding upholstery. Used to compress these rings. You will also need the rings themselves (they look like staples before compression). Alternatively, quality nylon ties can be used instead of rings.
- Pliers for removing old upholstery retaining rings. These can be simple wire cutters or metal scissors.
- Long ruler. You will need a ruler at least 1 meter long. A large construction square can be used.
- Chalk. With chalk, you can make notes on matter, outline patterns.
- Seam ripper. It is more convenient to remove seams with this tool, but you can use a blade or a sharp knife.
- Steam generator. Helps remove minor wrinkles in upholstery. Can relax (soften) the upholstery material for easier installation on the seat.
- Hair dryer. If there is no steam generator, then a hairdryer can be used. You need to be careful not to bring the hair dryer too close to the skin so as not to ruin it. Heating with a hair dryer will also make the skin more pliable.
- Prepare your camera or camera phone to take pictures of the stages of dismantling the seat.When reassembling, you can see where and what mounts were.
Do-it-yourself seat upholstering requires sufficient space to disassemble and place the removed seats.
Take the time to design your desktop. It should be flat, smooth and large enough to easily roll material. The table should be well lit. It will be convenient if the material table is directly connected to the table on which the sewing machine is installed.So, when working with large pieces of upholstery, the table will support the material while sewing. It will be convenient to mark and cut off the material on the table.
DIY seat upholstery. What do you need to be able to do?
Sewing on a sewing machine is the most difficult part of interior restoration. If there is no experience, then it is better to practice on unnecessary matter, and also, if possible, you need to ask a professional to help you figure out the intricacies.If there is a desire to do the hauling of the salon on an ongoing basis, like a business, then it takes a lot of practice to do the job efficiently and quickly. The formation of sewing skills on a typewriter can take more than one month. Again, the speed of learning depends on the individual.
To understand the process of interior stretching in all the intricacies, you need to study a lot of information on this topic.
Types of seat upholstery materials
You need to decide which material you want to use to replace the old one.
The material chosen for the seat upholstery determines the level of comfort, durability and ease of maintenance. There are many materials available. In general, it all comes down to the choice between textiles and leather.
Consider the materials most commonly used for seat upholstery, their advantages and disadvantages.
- Genuine leather is the most expensive material. This material is timeless and fashionable. It is practical, aesthetic and durable.Leather lends an expensive look to the interior. It is easier to clean than a cloth and is more resistant to stains from all kinds of dirt. Leather also has its drawbacks. It heats up quickly in the heat and remains cold for a long time in winter. Skin imprints from heavy objects can persist for a long time. The skin is susceptible to sharp objects, rubbing and cracking over time. Modern genuine leather has a protective layer. Modern dyes have good protective properties.Now, urethane paint can be used for protection, which is very wear-resistant and elastic, not prone to fading and cracking. In high-quality leather, the dye is not only on the surface, but passes through the entire layer. This provides a richer color and increased wear resistance. Caring for natural leather is more difficult than for artificial leather. To do this, you need to buy special cleaners and conditioners. You can read more about this in the article “caring for a leather interior”.
- Artificial leather. A very versatile material that can look like anything. It can be either an imitation of normal or crocodile or snake skin. The key factor that determines the quality of artificial leather is its harmlessness, the level of VOC (Volatile organic compounds). The gap between natural leather and faux leather has narrowed as the aesthetic and tactile properties of chemically produced materials have improved significantly.Many manufacturers are moving towards artificial leather for ethical, practical and financial reasons. Faux leather is easier to clean than natural leather.
- Alcantara. It is a faux ultra fine suede. Alcantara is pleasant to the touch and more functional than suede. It offers better stain and abrasion resistance as well as fire and fade resistance.Like all nap materials, Alcantara has directionality (direction of the nap). This should be taken into account when sewing. More details about this will be written in this article below.
- Cloth. This is a cheaper option. It gets dirty more easily and absorbs liquid. The fabric can have different textures, colors and patterns. The fabric upholstery in most cars is usually nylon or polyester. These are durable and affordable materials.
- Different materials can be combined when upholstering the interior.
A soft backing can be glued to the back of the upholstery. It is especially relevant for the skin. It is a foam material with a fabric. The fabric helps to hold the thread, and it does not fall through the fabric when sewing. This soft material has three functions. Firstly, it helps to eliminate wrinkles on a fairly thin material of the upholstery, and secondly, the soft lining gives the best tactile sensations of the surface.Thirdly, this material provides a smooth, even look and fullness of the upholstery after installation.
The soft backing is glued with a special glue from a spray can with the soft part to the upholstery, and with the cloth outward. The principle of gluing and leveling is the same as when repairing ceiling sheathing. In addition to gluing, you can additionally stitch along the very edge of the upholstery part. So the backing is guaranteed not to come off. After that, the excess at the edges of the upholstery part is cut off and a separate upholstery part can be considered finished.
Threads for sewing seat upholstery
Threads are cotton, nylon, polyester, dacron (chemical fiber).
The strongest are dacron threads, followed by nylon (better known in Russia as nylon) and polyester (polyester).
Cotton threads are not strong enough and break down quickly, therefore they are not suitable for upholstery.
The seating requires that the seam be able to stretch under the weight of the seated person and then recover again.Polyester and nylon yarns have these properties. The two types of filaments are very similar in appearance and in technical properties such as strength and elongation. Polyester is better than nylon when you need to sew items that will be exposed to the sun and moisture for a long time. That is, they are better suited for outdoor use. Nylon is considered a little more durable. Polyester and nylon threads are most often used for sewing seat upholstery.The thickness of the threads must be selected depending on the type of material.
As you know, most modern sewing machines form a seam from two threads. One thread comes from the top, from the spool, and the second from the bottom, from the bobbin. Use the same thread type for the bottom and top stitches. If you use a different type, then the nylon thread, as the stronger one, can cut the polyester thread.
Which upholstery color should I choose?
Everyone has the right to choose the color they prefer.But still, do not lose sight of the moment of combining color with other interior details. An important rule is to avoid mixing cold and warm colors. Next, consider the combination of light and dark colors. We all know that light colors make the interior look bigger. They also reflect more light than they absorb, so they fade less and keep the interior cooler. However, black skin is versatile.It is difficult not to please someone with this color or to spoil the salon. It will look good with interior details that have a different, even contrasting color.
Combinations of colors and materials are also popular. How many times have you heard the statement “less is more.” Don’t try to use many colors, textures, and sewing details in a design at the same time.
Bright colors such as bright red, yellow, bright blue tend to fade quickly.Therefore, it will be better to use quieter tones. When creating a salon, using materials with unusual shades, you need to take into account that this is everyone’s individual taste and not everyone can appreciate this preference when selling.
Dismantling and disassembling the seats
For the upholstery, the seats must first be dismantled, removed from the passenger compartment to the workplace, disassembled and removed the old upholstery. Each car interior has its own characteristics.Therefore, it is not possible to create a single instruction sheet that is universally applicable to all seating positions. Consider the main points that are similar for most cars.
- Most of the front seats are easy to remove from the passenger compartment. The front seats slide on trails (skids). They are bolted to the floor at the front and back. Usually, the points of attachment of the sled to the floor are covered with plastic covers. To get to the bolts, you need to move the chair to the extreme position (forward or backward, in turn).
Front seat anchorage
- Before removing the seats, disconnect all electrical connectors at the bottom. If the seats have side airbags, disconnect the battery and wait 3 minutes before disconnecting the connectors at the bottom of the seats.
- Carefully remove the seat from the passenger compartment, do not scratch the plastic trim of the passenger compartment with the slide. You can wrap rags around the sharp corners of the seat sled before dismantling.This will protect the interior from accidental scratches. The second front seat is dismantled in the same way.
- Removing the rear seat usually requires removing the lower section of the seat first. There are two different methods used to attach the bottom of the rear seat. There are two bolts or two latches in the front that anchor the seat to the floor. You need to unscrew or snap off the lower part of the seat and pull it out. After removing the lower part, the bolts that secure the rear seat backrest become visible.After unscrewing them, you need to move the seat back up and remove.
- Disassemble the seat. You will need a large area to work with the seating comfortably. This can be done on a large table or on the floor. First you need to detach the seat back from the seat itself. It is necessary to fully tilt the back with the seat mechanism. Remove the slide. To disassemble the front seats, it may be necessary to remove the plastic trim parts.
- The head restraint must be removed before removing the upholstery.
- Remove the old upholstery from the seat and backrest. The upholstery is usually attached to the seat frame and upholstery with special brackets. There can be a lot of such brackets (rings). To remove the old upholstery, you need to cut off all of these rings. They are not easy to cut. You can use a special tool, nippers or metal scissors. It is necessary to draw a diagram of the location of the fastening rings so that, when installing a new upholstery, you know the location of the new brackets.When parsing, you can also photograph the stages. So, you will know which bolt and where it was unscrewed.
- The upholstery can be fastened with rings to metal rods embedded in the soft part of the seat structure. In this case, the seat upholstery must be lifted off the edges to reveal the anchorage points and all attachments (rings) must be cut off. Instead of rings, there can be textile fasteners (Velcro), then you just need to pull the upholstery to remove.
Creating a pattern and sewing a new upholstery
- If the old upholstery is not stretched, it can be used as a template. To do this, it is unpicked at the seams into its component parts. Before disassembling the old upholstery into parts, you need to make notes on each part, where it is from, what part it is adjacent to. Each part is put on a new matter, a load is placed on it so that it fits tightly. Further, part of the old upholstery is outlined along the edge.
- When outlining the old upholstery, if the new material is face down, then the old part of the upholstery must also be face down, otherwise you will get a mirror copy of the old part of the upholstery, which is only suitable for sewing back side out.
- You can first make templates out of cardboard or thick paper, so that parts for new upholstery from new material can already be cut from them.
- Each new part of the upholstery must also be marked to which part of the upholstery it belongs to, which edge it adjoins to what.The marks help to smoothly join the parts to be sewn. Some materials can stretch from edge to edge, corner to corner. Marks help control the tension along the seam when sewing.
- Small cuts can be made in the places of the marks. This will make the marks visible from the front. Marks / cutouts are especially important on curved edges.
- When all of the new fabric upholstery has been cut and the soft backing is glued and sewn on, they must be sewn together using a sewing machine.Use the correct needle and thread for your upholstery material.
- Old upholstery is a good hint for a new one. Examine how the seams were made, with what allowance, and reproduce them on the new upholstery.
- The allowance (distance from edge to seam line) can be controlled with the sewing machine and the seam line can be marked before sewing. Marking the seam line allows you to better concentrate on the seam itself while sewing, without being distracted by the special marks on the sewing machine.
Masking tape applied at the correct distance from the needle makes it easier to control the desired allowance (distance from the edge to the seam) and to make an even seam.
- Start by sewing simpler upholstery from the headrest or armrest. Experience will be gained already at this stage.
- Pile fabric has directionality. The directionality of the pile is usually indicated on the back of this material with an arrow.If you run your hand over such material in the direction indicated by the arrow, the pile will be smoothed out. If this is done in the opposite direction, the pile will “rise”. The incorrect orientation of parts of such material relative to each other can give a difference in shade. When installing such material on a panel, the direction of the pile should be at the bottom (the arrow will point down the panel). On seats, the backrest pile should “point” down towards the seat itself.On the seat, the pile should be towards the back of the seat.
Types of stitches used for upholstering seats
The main point when upholstering the interior is creating seams using a sewing machine. Practice as much as possible. You need to learn how to easily make even seams on a sewing machine.
Consider the main types of seams used when tightening car seats with your own hands. How the seams are made will determine not only their appearance, but also their strength.
Right side of a simple joining seam (butt seam)
- Basic joining seam (so-called seam seam). Two parts of the material are applied to each other with the right side, a certain indent is made from the edges, and the materials are sewn with a single seam. The edges on the back side can be bent to one side or each edge separately to its side, ironed and glued.This will create a flat seam.
- Stitching stitch. It is done in the following way. First, two parts of the material are taken, joined with the front side and stitched together with an indent from the edges of about 1.5 – 2 cm.In the second stage, we take the stitched part to the side, the front part of the material remains on top and one edge hangs over one of the parts of the material (see photo). A second seam is made along it. This seam will be visible, so you need to make it straight.It should go through all the layers of material underneath.
- The French stitch (double) starts as the previous stitch. Two pieces of material are stitched together with the front side to each other. The distance from the edge should be larger (2–2.5 cm). Further, on the reverse side, a strip of the same material (or stronger, but thinner, so as not to increase the seam thickness) is sewn between the edges of the two parts with two seams.Seams go through all layers of materials. For convenience, before sewing, the strip can first be glued to the material. This strip will not be visible from the front. It reinforces the main seam. The two seams on the front side must be even and symmetrical about the joint between the two materials. Thicker threads are often used for a better seam appearance. The French stitch is often used in the manufacture of leather and artificial leather upholstery.When sewing thinner fabrics and non-upholstery sewing, the French stitch may have a different technique. Such a seam turns out to be beautiful, but not the most durable. All threads and the rolled edge of the fabric are exposed to the sun and abrasion.
French (double) stitch
- Stitch with elastic cord insert (edging stitch). The purpose of the cord is to create an even and tightly wrapped material. After that, he is included in the process of creating a common seam.This requires a special cord and setting the sewing machine in a certain way. First you need to align the base material and the strip with the cord and carefully stitch them (3 layers are stitched). Next, the second part of the material is placed face down to the sewn strip of material with a cord and sewn on. To properly sew the insert with a cord, you need to use a special foot on the sewing machine. This allows the sewing machine to hold the cord and snug material close to the needle for more precise seam control.This seam can be called the most durable. The cord provides protection to the seam and edges of the material, eliminating the damaging effects of the sun and abrasion. After the insert is worn out, it can be replaced with a new one.
Seam with a cord insert (edging seam)
- When making new upholstery, non-structural, decorative seams can be stitched. This is done to add detail to the upholstery design. There are two basic ways to create these seams. The first and most common is to simply make a seam through the upholstery to which the lining is glued.A certain relief is created, as the seam presses the upholstery, squeezing the soft lining. The second method is a pleated seam. First, a seam is made as described in the first case. Next, the material is bent along the seam line, facing each other. Then the second seam is sewn on the back side, about 3 mm from the edge of the fold. Thus, the front side looks like two separate pieces are sewn together (see photo). In addition to an additional design element, such a seam has practical benefits.It is hidden and not subject to destruction.
- The beginning and end of the seam must be secured to prevent the seam from unraveling. This is done by the reverse function on the sewing machine. You need to sew 1 cm forward, then 1 cm back and continue the seam. It turns out that 3 lines pass through one place and the thread is fixed. Also, modern models may have a built-in thread securing function. On sewing machines that do not have a built-in reverse or thread locking function, you can do the same by raising the presser foot, leaving the needle down, and rotating the fabric 360 degrees.
Stitch and Stitch Length
Stitch length is the distance from one stitch to the next. Stitch length affects the strength of the seam, its appearance and elasticity. The stitch length is usually selected based on the specific sewing task. A shorter stitch is used to join the fabric together, while a longer stitch is preferred when needed to make it easier to see. Heavily curved edges are easier to sew with a shorter stitch because the sewing machine moves the fabric more slowly under the presser foot.In addition, short stitches make the bend smoother, while long stitches can make the bend more angular.
The stitch length can be adjusted with the sewing machine. Leather is usually sewn with longer stitches (6.7 or 8 mm). If the seam is clearly visible and has a contrasting color with the upholstery, then a longer stitch looks more beautiful. If the stitch is too short, the thread can break through the fabric between the holes and weaken the seam.Wool or cotton fabrics should have a shorter stitch (4–5 mm) to better hold the fabric.
Stitch length influences not only strength, but also elasticity, which is very important for seat upholstery.
Tension is an important stitch characteristic. The sewing machine must be correctly adjusted for the correct stitch thread tension. If the tension is too loose, the seam may loosen and even break.With a strong pull, the holes into which the seam threads pass will be too large and not aesthetically pleasing.
Padded seats with airbag
Seats with an airbag may have a plastic pad that unfolds when the airbag is deployed, similar to the dashboard or steering wheel. However, more often than not, the seat with an airbag on the seat is simply covered with padding. At this point, the upholstery has a weakened seam that should tear easily when the airbag is deployed.
If the seams in the side of the seat, where the airbag is located, do not meet certain specifications, then in an accident it may deploy too late or in the wrong direction.
Upholstery sewing station with seam control.
There is special equipment (sewing station Durkopp Adler 550–867) for stitch control when sewing airbag seat upholstery.Controlled thread tension and stitch length to meet industry standards. The sewing station will sew a seam that is strong enough for the seat to operate and at the same time ensures that the seam will break when the airbag is deployed. Such a system is expensive and not available to every workshop.
The following technique can be used for seats with an airbag. Sew at the top and bottom of the area from where the airbag should fire with normal thread size.At the ends, the seams are fixed. The place where the seam should part when the airbag is deployed is stitched with a thinner thread. A seam with a thinner thread is made overlapping the previous seams, but not secured.
For the top seam, use a nylon thread (Bonded Nylon Upholstery # 69 T70). In this case, the stitch length should be at least 6 mm and the tension should be reduced.
The airbag is deployed with tremendous force and speed.A seam with this thread and this length of stitch will not be able to hold such force.
Putting on new upholstery and assembling the seats
- When all the upholstery pieces have been sewn together, it can be slipped onto the seat and backrest.
- When refitting the upholstery, restore all fasteners that were cut off when the seat was disassembled. In the course of assembly, refer to the photographs taken during the disassembly of the seats.
- The traditional method of fixing the upholstery is to use special rings.As an alternative method of fastening, nylon cable ties of the correct size (10-20 cm) can be used. They must be of good quality and not break.
Start tensioning the backrest cover by turning it in the opposite direction and unfold it gradually.
- The seat backrest is slightly more difficult to fit than the seat itself. It takes effort to pull it on. The upholstery should be turned upside down.It is placed on the upper part of the backrest and unfolds in stages.
- When putting on leather upholstery, it must be treated with hot steam. This is necessary for the skin to “sit” well and tightly in place. Exposure to heat dries out the skin. When heated, the skin looses and becomes much more pliable. After cooling down, it contracts and wraps around the seat. If no steam generator is available, a hairdryer can be used as an alternative. When using a hair dryer, adjust the temperature to avoid overheating the skin.If there are no adjustments on the hair dryer, then change the heating by changing the distance from the surface. When heated, you do not need to stay in one place for a long time. Artificial leather is less sensitive to heat, but also requires caution when heating.
- A safer option would be to steam from the inside of the upholstery before putting it on. This will prevent steam from damaging your face. After drying, the leather will lie flat on the seat, without folds or wrinkles.
- If the seat has an airbag, the battery must be disconnected when the seat plugs are connected.
More interesting articles:
How to sew French curtains for the kitchen with your own hands, photo “Inter-er.ru
French curtains are a combination of elegance and conservatism in the interior. They are great not only for the bedroom and living room, but also for the kitchen. Ready-made curtains can be purchased in the store, ordered at a studio, or sewn with your own hands.This is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. A master class with step-by-step photos will tell you how to sew beautiful French curtains for the kitchen yourself.
Fabric selection and style description
Material selection is fun. For needlewomen, this is a pleasure. But the main condition when choosing a fabric is its pliability. The appearance and shape of the drapery will depend on what material you choose:
- soft fabric of dense texture – falling waves;
- Lightweight and stiff fabric – fluffy ruffles.
Advice. A translucent fabric is perfect for the kitchen. The best option is organza. Silk and tulle can also be used for marquise sewing.
The curtains got the name “marquise” due to their decorativeness and pomp. It is worth noting that this idea of decorating curtains became popular even at the court of the French king Louis XIV.
French curtains are characterized by soft, uniform folds
They are often called cascade-lifting curtains.They are made in the form of sections of fabric (scallops), which are vertically connected to each other. Hence another name for them – scalloped. The scalloped fabric gathers into neat folds. The number of scallops depends only on your preferences, window dimensions and, as a rule, is selected individually.
Unlike standard curtains, awnings do not move apart, but rise or fall.
Attention! A good quality cornice system is a guarantee of long and convenient operation. It can be manual or automatic.
Material Requirement Calculation
If the need for standard curtains is calculated from the length of the cornice and the window height, then the amount of material for sewing French curtains is much larger. A significant amount of fabric is used for drapery, and the gathering factor is considered not less than 1.75 of the width of the material.
Advice. It is necessary to take into account the length of the eaves, allowances for seams of 5 cm, and from the remainder form assemblies. The length of the finished curtain is multiplied by 2 and the seam allowances are added, which are 3 and 5 cm for the top and bottom, respectively.
Procedure for cutting French curtains
You will not find special patterns or patterns for French curtains, but if you take into account some tips, you can easily cut the fabric and sew awnings on your own.
Scheme: French curtain pattern
- The width must be greater than the length of the eaves. It is important to take into account the allowances for the side seams.
- The length should be 2 times the height of the finished curtain. You should also set aside 2 to 5 cm for the top and bottom.
- Spread the canvas neatly on a smooth surface and level the bottom.
- Before starting work, the edges of the fabric should be overcast and then ironed.
Simplified version of sewing: step-by-step instructions with photo
Preliminary preparation is over and you can start sewing French curtains. We bring to your attention a step-by-step instruction with a photo, which will help even an inexperienced craftswoman to sew awnings on her own.
- To obtain soft draperies and bends after tightening the braid, darts are made on top along vertical lines.Their size depends on the height of the product. By lengthening the shade, the dart will be much longer and deeper.
Table for calculating scallops for French curtains
- Draping is done by means of a small drape tape with rings into which the cords of the lifting device are threaded. The length of such a braid is obtained from the calculation of the following parameters: the height of the awning multiplied by the number of sections with the addition of the cut height.
Advice. For huge windows, it is advisable to make large sections, and for narrow ones – neat waves of small size (from 0.25 to 0.45 m).The number of sections for windows can be calculated using a special table.
- Lay the curtain face down on a smooth surface (eg floor).
- Sew the braid with needles along the vertical lines so that the bottom of the product coincides with its end.
- On the side, place the tape butt to the side edges.
- Tuck the ends of the tape from the bottom a few centimeters, pulling the cords out of the fold in advance.
Schematic: a simplified method of sewing a French curtain
- Sew the ribbon to the garment, then iron the bottom of the curtain and stitch the hem at the bottom.
- After the tape is sewn on, you need to adjust the top cut to the size of the tape fastener.
- Close the cut with tape and stitch it on.
- Sew on small weights from below to maintain the vertical shape of the curtains.
- Pull the cords together, the drapery should form delicate folds. They are fixed by means of ribbons.
French curtains: design ideas for the kitchen
It is difficult to imagine a traditional kitchen interior without curtains. They are protection from prying eyes, scorching sunlight and simply create a cozy atmosphere in the room.
Curtains-awnings in the dining room
French-style curtains are a good option for decorating windows in the kitchen, especially if it is combined with the dining room.
And if the kitchen set and furniture are selected in the Baroque or Rococo style, then awnings will come in handy.They will create an aristocratic pompous atmosphere.
For high-tech rooms, French curtains will be the detail that will smooth out the cold light of modern materials and give the kitchen a warm and cozy atmosphere.
Advice. For the kitchen, the best option would be curtains, the length of which reaches the level of the window sill.
Graceful and pompous awnings will decorate any room, create a corner of warmth and comfort in it. Delicate lines, cascading folds and lightness – these curtains, undoubtedly, will not leave anyone indifferent.And if you decide to sew them yourself, then ready-made awnings will tirelessly delight the eye in the kitchen or in the dining room. This work is not easy, but the result will exceed all expectations.
DIY French curtains: video
French curtains in the kitchen: photo
We announce the Spring Update 2020 Dress Competition
We invite you to take part in the international sewing competition!
Dear readers and subscribers! After the New Year holidays, the Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati traditionally announces the Spring Update 2020 sewing competition! The beginning of the year was not chosen for this event by chance – we associate any undertakings and positive changes in our life with the coming of the New Year.And even despite the fact that winter still reigns in nature, we are all full of hopes and plans, we increasingly want to experience inspiration and discover new opportunities for ourselves.
And you can get one of these opportunities right now! 2020 is a round number, and this is a sure sign that it’s time to reset all your doubts, disbelief, past negative experiences, if any, and Take part in the Spring Update 2020 dress contest and become its main character! to take part in the Spring Renewal 2020 sewing competition for women’s dresses.Of course, in any competition there is a competitive moment, but even despite this, there can be no losers in our competition, because each participant has a unique opportunity not only to win valuable prizes, but also to gain professional experience, experience vivid emotions and impressions, find fresh ideas for creativity and move to a new level of their achievements.
You love to sew, cannot imagine your life without this fascinating activity, and everyone around you admires your masterpieces? Then you should definitely take part in a sewing competition.The Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati announces the VIII Annual International Dress Competition “Spring Renewal 2020”. This fashion event can change your life, and you can headline it!
The Spring Renewal competition is dedicated to women’s dresses. Applications will be accepted within two months (!) – from February 15 to April 15, 2020. The organizing committee of the competition made sure that each participant had enough time to come up with a dress model, draw a sketch, create a pattern and sew a new dress for the Competition.
This year there will be a lot of surprises for the winners and prize-winners of the Competition! Our sponsors and partners were very attentive to the selection of awards and prepared valuable gifts for the winners that will bring even more opportunities to any creative process of creating clothes. In addition to valuable prizes, all winners will be awarded with diplomas of the competition.
OUR REFERENCE: The Spring Renewal dress competition is the largest annual international sewing competition among amateurs and professionals of sewing and has been held on the portal Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School since 2013.During this time, masters from Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Armenia, Latvia, Lithuania, Israel, Italy, Germany, France, Canada, Japan, Egypt took part in the competition. Every year the winners receive valuable prizes from sponsors and partners of the Competition: modern sewing equipment – sewing machines, overlocks; professional tailor’s mannequins, threads, sewing accessories, fabrics and sewing books.
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Our advice to the contestants
If this is your first time taking part in the sewing competition, before reading the terms and conditions, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the works of the winners of the Spring Update 2019 competition.Since the jury evaluates the entries solely on the basis of photographs, we recommend that you read the useful tips for the participants of the competition. Our recommendations might help you win!
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Terms of the dress sewing competition “Spring Update 2020”
- Everyone who loves and knows how to sew can take part in the competition.
- To participate in the competition, you must send a photo of a garment (dress) on a model in full growth (both the author of the product and his assistant can act as a model).
- Models of dresses sent are evaluated by photographs.
- Photos of self-made products (dresses) are admitted to the competition, while the jury of the competition has the right to request additional photos of the competition product from different angles and from the wrong side from the participants.
- One participant has the right to submit only one model of dress for participation in the competition. The number of photos taken from different angles is not limited.
- Applications are accepted for the competition from 15.02.2020 to 15.04.2020 by email mail: [email protected]
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It is necessary to send an uncropped photo of the model to the editors of the site, the size of the photo is 10 * 15 cm (1181 * 1772 px), the resolution is 300 dpi (dots per inch) in jpg (jpeg) format to the email address. e-mail: [email protected] marked “Dress competition“ Spring update 2020 ”.
Not admitted to the competition:
- Photos with low image definition.
- Photos with cropped parts of dress and body.
- Photos with a poorly viewed dress model.
- Dresses that previously participated in the Spring Renewal competition.
- Photos with overlaid logos and watermarks.
- Photo collages.
- Group photos.
- Wedding dresses, carnival dresses, national costumes and costumes for sports performances, cosplay dresses.
- Photographs of dresses on mannequins.
- Photos with children.
- Children’s models of dresses.
Since dress models will be judged solely from photographs, we recommend that you pay special attention to photographs. Earlier we gave detailed recommendations on how to take the right photo and increase your chances of winning the competition, be sure to study this material: How to win the competition
IMPORTANT! We advise you to send several photos of the dress model from different angles. This will allow the jury to evaluate your work in detail.In the letter, be sure to indicate the number of the photo that will be published on the site to participate in the audience voting.
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The letter of application must necessarily contain:
1. Brief profile of the participant:
- Full name;
- Experience in sewing;
- Your hobbies;
- Place of residence and email address.
2. A photograph (or photographs) of the dress on the model that meet the conditions of the competition.
3. Number of the photo participating in the audience voting.
Check out the annexes to the Spring 2020 Dress Competition:
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Nomination “Inspiration 2020” – Audience Award
From April 20 to May 20, 2020, on-line voting for the best work sent to the competition will be open on the site. The most long-awaited and favorite stage of the Competition is the audience voting! Thanks to the open audience voting, all site readers will be able to familiarize themselves with the works of the contestants and vote for the models they like most.The voting results will determine the winner of the audience choice in the “Inspiration 2020” nomination and will be taken into account by the jury when summing up the main results of the competition. The results of the competition will be announced on May 31 and published on the website.
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The winner of the “Inspiration” nomination will be determined by the results of an open on-line audience voting and will receive great prizes:
- A set of high quality embroidery and sewing threads from the MADEIRA company, which is the world leader in the production of high quality embroidery and sewing threads. The company’s activities are based on a constant striving to exactly match the directions and trends of modern fashion. The box of threads for patchwork (patchwork or quilting) contains Aerofil threads, which are made of durable polyester, and are suitable for both quilting and sewing. The set includes 40 spools of 400 m, 20 spools of 1000 m and 3 spools of Monofil (!!!) With MADEIRA threads, all your sewing projects will be unique!
- The book by Anastasia Korfiati “Golden Stitch” from the publishing house AST, updated and supplemented edition.The book is a bestseller and embodies the author’s vast experience accumulated over the years of practical work of the author in the sewing sector. Each craftswoman, using the patterns and master classes presented in this book, will be able to learn how to design patterns and create fashionable stylish clothes on their own.
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Prizes of the Spring Renewal 2020 Dress Competition:
PRIZES FOR 1 PLACE:
- Prize from the general partner of the competition of the company “Beloshveyka” – overlock Brother HF4000ST. Modern 3/4-thread overlocker, with differential feed, stitch width and stitch length adjuster, convenient looper bobbin threading and high quality seams. The features of this overlock include the use of a high-strength knife in the design. The overlock is equipped with an extension table, which is perfect for working with large items. Using this model, you can take your products to a new level, and engage in professional processing of woven products of any textured complexity and density.
- Prize from the manufacturer of sewing dummies Royal Dress forms – Betty premium scale mannequin. This mini-mannequin is a 2 times reduced copy of a size 42 mannequin. If you love to create, come up with models on your own, if you have a dream to create author’s things, then you need a large-scale mannequin. Everything that can be done with a large-scale mannequin can be done with an ordinary one, but the mannequin is miniature, which means that you will need 2 times less fabric, time and effort to create your masterpieces.The scale mannequin is a great helper for learning and creative experimentation.
- The book by Anastasia Korfiati “Golden Stitch” from the publishing house AST.
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PRIZES FOR 2nd PLACE:
- Wooden box with threads from the manufacturer of high quality sewing and embroidery threads – the MADEIRA company.