What are the types of diamond cuts: Different Diamond Shapes: Ultimate Guide with Size & Price Chart

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Different Diamond Shapes: Ultimate Guide with Size & Price Chart

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You may have heard that fancy shape diamonds are less expensive than rounds, but by how much? If you’re considering different diamond cuts, understanding how diamond shapes impact price and face-up size may be an important consideration.

We’ve compiled information on average costs and sizes for different diamond shapes at different carat weights. Learn how the different fancy cuts compare, and the pros and cons of different diamond cuts.

Find this Ring at CustomMadeA delicate rose gold setting for a 0.8-ct princess-cut diamond with pink tourmaline accents. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

How Should We Compare Different Diamond Cuts?

There’s a lot to take into consideration when comparing different diamond shapes. For this article, we focus on quantitative measures (cost, carat, face-up size) and practical considerations (color and clarity recommendations, potential for chipping).

However, the most important quality for you is whether the shape fits your style! Ultimately, the least expensive cut or the largest face-up area won’t make you happy if you’d prefer a different diamond shape!

These are the nine most popular fancy diamond shapes. Image by Paul Noillimrev. Licensed under CC By-SA 3.0.

How Diamond Shapes Affect Price

To look at this, we chose a few benchmark carat sizes: 0.5, 0.7, 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, and 2.0 carats. For each size, we collected average prices for each diamond shape for G color, VS2 diamonds from Blue Nile’s inventory. Round diamond averages are based on “Excellent” cut diamonds.

Diamond price chart with the lowest price for each carat category shown in bold.

Round diamonds command premium pricing at all sizes. This is in part because we only considered “Excellent” cuts, while the fancy shape prices average over the entire range of cut quality. Still, the discount is significant. Fancy-cut diamonds have prices 10-43% lower than rounds!

There’s no overarching pattern to the discount, however. The most expensive and least expensive fancy cuts change based on the carat weight that you’re looking for!

Round shape diamonds have the highest prices for all carat sizes.

This graph shows another interesting feature of diamond pricing: the bump in price for rounds at the 1.0-ct mark. While other shapes rise in value more steadily from 0.7 to 1.2 ct, round diamonds jump at 1.0 ct and have a less steep increase in pricing to 1.2 ct. This means that the discount for fancy diamond cuts at the 1.0-ct mark is larger.

We can look at this another way. For a diamond budget of about $7,000, what size (G color, VS2) diamond could you get? The round diamond would be about 1.0 ct, but you could get a fancy shape closer to 1.2 ct, or maybe even larger!

How Diamond Shapes Affect Face-Up Size

It’s no secret that some fancy-shape diamonds appear larger than rounds. Oval, pear, emerald, and marquise cuts can appear larger because of their elongated shapes. Rectangular cushion, radiant, and princess cuts can have the same effect. Even square radiant, cushion, princess, and asscher cuts can appear larger than a round because their corner-to-corner length is larger than a round’s diameter.

These diamonds may seem to be different sizes, but they’re all 1 ct and all set in a 1.5 mm band solitaire ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

However, that doesn’t mean that a round diamond appears small. Despite their compact nature, well-cut round diamonds appear large because of their intense sparkle — something no fancy diamond cut can match.

Well-proportioned diamonds should have similar measurements and face-up area (within ~5%) as those in these tables. However, elongated shapes have greater variability.

For face-up size, marquise diamonds are the clear winner, about 15% larger than rounds! Trillion, oval, and pear shapes also face-up large for their weight. The remaining shapes are smaller, with asscher-cut diamonds having the smallest face-up size.

Let’s take a closer look at the pros and cons of different diamond shapes.

Round-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenRound diamond are timeless and the perfect fit for many styles. Make a similar ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

Why We Love Round Diamonds

Perfect for classic looks, the round brilliant diamond cut has been carefully engineered to produce the most sparkle. With a well-cut round diamond, the brilliance and dispersion will impress in any engagement ring. Better yet, even though this diamond shape won’t have the largest face-up area, its intense sparkle will make it appear bigger!

The Downsides

Since rounds are the most popular diamond cuts, they’re also the most expensive. This is especially noticeable at the popular 1.0-ct mark!

Tips for Buying a Round Diamond on a Budget

If the carat size isn’t too important to you, try to buy something just under a popular weight. A 0. 9-ct diamond will be much cheaper than a 1.0-ct, and will appear nearly the same size!

Because of the brilliance, you can compromise on color and clarity. For clarity, SI1 and SI2 diamonds will still look great for an engagement ring. Color depends on the metal setting, but an I or J will still look good in white gold, as will a K color diamond in yellow or rose gold!

Read our recommendations for round-shape diamonds.

Princess-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenThe gentle curves in this vintage-style engagement ring provide a counterpoint to the sharp edges of a princess-cut diamond. Make a similar ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

Why We Love Princess Cuts

The princess cut is one of the most brilliant diamond shapes and, compared to a round, comes at a 25-35% discount. Although princess cuts have a slightly smaller face-up size, their long diagonal measurement makes them seem larger. The most popular of the fancy shapes, princess cuts look great in any setting!

The Downsides

The sharp corners of a princess cut are prone to snag and chip. These should be protected by prongs. Furthermore, when buying a princess-cut diamond, make sure it has no inclusions near the edges. This can make them more vulnerable.

Tips for Buying a Princess-Cut Diamond on a Budget

Sticking to an SI1 clarity grade will get you a beautiful princess cut at a lower price. For white gold settings, an H or I color diamond will still appear white. For yellow or rose gold, a J color princess cut can still look great!

Read our princess-cut diamond guide to learn more about this shape.

Oval-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at CustomMadeBecause of their shape, oval-cut diamonds still look large in popular split-shank styles. Check out more custom engagement rings. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Oval Diamonds

Oval-cut diamonds still have most of the brilliance of rounds, but their elongated shape has a lengthening effect on the finger. They’re also a popular choice for East-West settings. Better yet, they’re 10-30% cheaper than rounds, with about 8% larger face-up area!

The Downsides

Any oval-cut gem will exhibit a bowtie pattern in the middle. Some are more prominent, and some less. If you’re picky about finding an oval-cut diamond without a noticeable bowtie, you may have to do some searching.

Tips for Buying Oval-Cut Diamonds on a Budget

Oval-cuts hide inclusions well, so an SI1 or SI2 diamond will likely appear eye clean. However, they tend to show color. It’s best to stick to a color grade of H to avoid color in your oval-cut diamond.

Read our oval-cut diamond guide for more tips on this unique cut.

Cushion-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at Custom MadeA classic look with plenty of sparkle, this cushion-cut diamond is set in a vintage-style halo engagement ring. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Cushions

Cushion-cut diamonds show excellent fire! The angles in this cut are made for those flashes of colored light. Although one of the oldest diamond cuts, the cushion cut has seen a recent resurgence in popularity. Still, these diamonds are 25-42% cheaper than equivalent rounds!

The Downsides

Cushion-cut diamonds face-up about 8% smaller than equivalent rounds.

Tips for Buying a Cushion-Cut Diamond on a Budget

Cushion cuts aren’t too forgiving with color, so it’s best to stick to an H color or better. However, they hide inclusions well, so you can find SI1 and SI2 cushion-cut diamonds that still appear flawless!

Read our cushion-cut diamond guide before you buy.

Emerald-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenWhat’s better than an emerald-cut diamond? Three emerald-cut diamonds! These subtle beauties look great in three-stone engagement rings. Make a similar ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

Why We Love Emerald Cuts

Instead of the usual brilliance and fire, emerald cuts are step cuts with a different kind of sparkle. These diamonds reflect light in a beautiful and subtle “hall of mirrors” effect. Although they’re one of the rarer diamond shapes, emerald-cut diamonds can be 12-42% cheaper than rounds of the same carat weight.

Because of their elongated shape, emerald-cut diamonds have a slimming effect on the finger. They’re also a great choice for an understated East-West ring.

The Downsides

Because an emerald cut isn’t a brilliant cut, you can easily see inclusions in emerald-cut diamonds. In addition, they have a face-up size about 5% smaller than rounds. They may appear even smaller because of their lack of brilliance.

Tips for Buying an Emerald-Cut Diamond on a Budget

An H color, VS2 clarity emerald-cut diamond will give you the most for your money. You can also look for shallower stones, since these will face-up larger. The angles in an emerald cut aren’t as important to its beauty, so a shallow stone can still look great!

Read our emerald-cut diamond guide to learn more about this mesmerizing diamond cut.

Pear-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at CustomMadePear-shape diamonds look great in both simple and intricate ring styles. This nature-inspired ring shows the teardrop diamond held in vines. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Pear Shapes

Not only do pear-shape diamonds have a unique and beautiful shape, their prices are also quite attractive! They face-up 8% larger than rounds and cost 10-30% less. Their elongated shape also makes them a great choice for trendy East-West engagement rings.

The Downsides

The tip of a tear-drop diamond is prone to snag and chip and must be carefully protected with prongs. Check the laboratory report to make sure the tip contains no inclusions, as this can weaken the gem.

In addition, pear-cut diamonds exhibit a bowtie. It may take some searching to find a pear cut with a minimal bowtie.

Tips for Buying a Pear-Shape Diamond on a Budget

Similar to other brilliant diamond cuts, you’ll find the best value in an H color pear with SI1 or SI2 clarity.

Read our pear-shaped diamond guide to to help you choose the right diamond for you.

Marquise-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at CustomMadeMarquise-cut diamonds lengthen the finger and look great in vintage styles. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Marquise Diamonds

The elongated shape of a marquise cut makes the diamond look huge and your finger appear slimmer, too! Marquises have the largest face-up area of all diamond cuts — 15% larger than rounds. They also cost 10-25% less than round diamonds of the same carat, and look great set in East-West style engagement rings.

The Downsides

The tapered points of a marquise-cut diamond need to be protected by prongs to prevent chipping and snagging. Make sure these vulnerable tips have no inclusions.

In addition, marquise-cut diamonds exhibit a bowtie. Searching for a diamond with minimal bowtie may take some time!

Although symmetry is very important in a marquise-cut diamond, it may be difficult to judge. Look at the shape closely and ensure that it appears symmetrical.

Tips for Buying a Marquise-Cut Diamond on a Budget

Since marquise-cut diamonds hide inclusions well, an SI1 or SI2 clarity will give you an eye-clean diamond on a budget. An H color diamond will appear white when set in white gold, but an I or even J color can look great in yellow or rose gold.

Read more about marquise cut quality to find the best diamond for your ring.

Asscher-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenWith subtle sparkle and geometric design, asscher-cut diamonds work well in both simple and intricate styles. Make a similar ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

Why We Love Asscher-Cut Diamonds

The mesmerizing windmill pattern of an asscher-cut diamond is great for a vintage, Art Deco look. With their octagonal outlines, they’re perfect for geometrical styles. They also cost 19-43% less than equivalent rounds!

The Downsides

With 13% less face-up area than a round, an asscher-cut diamond shows the smallest face-up area of the fancy cuts.

In addition, this step cut doesn’t hide inclusions like a brilliant cut would.

Tips for Buying an Asscher-Cut Diamond on a Budget

As with emerald cuts, a VS2 clarity, H color asscher-cut diamond will give you the most for your budget. Again, shallower diamonds will have a greater face-up size, appearing larger for their weight without sacrificing beauty.

Read our asscher-cut diamond guide to learn how to pick the perfect windmill.

Heart-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at CustomMadeThough usually associated with delicate, romantic ring styles, this heart-shaped diamond is set in a feather-shaped, tattoo-inspired ring! © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Heart Shapes

Heart-shaped diamonds are romantic symbols and cost 13-26% less than rounds!

The Downsides

Heart-cut diamonds have a face-up area about 7% smaller than rounds.

The tip of the heart is prone to snag and chip and should be protected by prongs.

Evaluating the shape of hearts in smaller sizes is difficult, so it’s best to stick to 1 ct and above.

Tips for Buying a Heart-Shape Diamond on a Budget

Like most brilliant cuts, SI1 and SI2 clarity grades should give you an eye-clean diamond. H color heart-shaped diamonds will still appear white and give you a discount compared to higher color grades.

Read more about heart cut quality to find your favorite diamond.

Radiant-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenRadiant-cut diamonds are bright and brilliant, perfect for anyone who loves sparkle. Make a similar ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

Why We Love Radiant-Cut Diamonds

Radiant cuts are one of the most brilliant cuts a diamond can have. This cut provides tons of sparkle, and the truncated corners make it more durable than a princess cut. Better yet, they can cost 20-39% less than round diamonds! If you go with an elongated radiant cut, it may also appear larger than a round.

The Downsides

Radiant-cut diamonds have a relatively small face-up size, about 4% smaller than rounds.

Tips for Buying a Radiant-Cut Diamond on a Budget

Radiant-cut diamonds hide inclusions well, so a clarity grade of SI1 or SI2 will still look beautiful! A color grade of H will give you the most for your money for a white gold setting, but you could drop down to an I color for rose gold or yellow gold.

Read more about radiant cut quality to find the most brilliant stone.

Trillion-Cut Diamonds

Find this Ring at James AllenTrillion-shaped diamonds don’t fit everyone’s style, but they do make unique and eye-catching center stones. This one is surrounded by a ruby halo on a delicate white gold band. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

Why We Love Trillions

The unique geometry and excellent sparkle of trillions make these diamonds stand out. Though popular as side stones, a trillion center stone makes a bold statement. Better yet, their shallow cut makes them face-up 12% larger than rounds!

The Downsides

Due to their unusual shape, trillion-cut diamonds in large sizes are difficult to find, and their cut quality is difficult to judge. Furthermore, their corners are prone to snag and chip. Their settings should protect the corners.

Tips for Buying a Trillion-Cut Diamond on a Budget

While an SI clarity, H color trillion will give you the most for your budget, it may be difficult to find a trillion-shaped diamond with these narrow criteria. Work with an experienced jeweler to ensure you get a fair deal!

Start a consultation for a custom trillion diamond engagement ring at CustomMade.

Which Diamond Shape is Best?

Round diamonds have the most brilliance and sparkle, but come at a premium in price. While fancy cuts are all heavily discounted relative to rounds, none have the same sparkle as a round brilliant. Furthermore, finding a well-cut diamond with a fancy shape can be difficult.

Ultimately, the best diamond shape is the one you want most!

Where Should I Buy a Fancy-Cut Diamond?

Just like a round diamond, it’s essential to closely review a fancy-cut diamond before you buy it. For any diamond shape, look for a diamond that’s not off-color and avoid large inclusions near the center of the gem. Most importantly, look at how it performs! If you’re spending thousands on a diamond engagement ring, you should be happy with its performance.

Both James Allen and Blue Nile offer a wide selection of fancy diamond shapes, and you can see magnified, 360° videos of the thousands of stones in their databases. This lets you see each diamond’s qualities and compare similar ones.

James Allen also allows you to review your diamond with their experts — essential for assessing the cut quality of fancy diamond shapes! Furthermore, for those who want to create an engagement ring, James Allen has a very large selection of engagement ring styles.

Blue Nile does have one big advantage for fancy shapes. They allow you to narrow your choices by the length-to-width ratio. If you’re picky about the shape of the cut, this can be a huge timesaver!

On the other hand, if you’re not confident about judging the cut quality yourself, or if you just can’t seem to find what you want, check out CustomMade. Their experienced jewelers will guide you to the diamond that’s best for your style — and your budget!

Lab Diamond Shapes: Everything to Know


Unlike Cubic Zirconia and Moissanite , lab-grown diamonds are chemically identical to mined diamonds. Their look and sparkle are truly the same as natural diamonds. Lab diamonds are available in all the popular shapes that natural diamonds are available in when it comes to making jewelry.

Browse Lab Diamonds


How are Lab Diamonds Made?

Laboratories grow these stones from pure carbon using specialized machinery. In High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) manufacturing, small diamond fragments are used as a tiny seed for new crystals. These are placed in a machine that operates under extremely high temperatures and pressures, depositing carbon onto the new diamond crystal.

The other process, called Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD), uses carbon-rich gas and lasers to deposit the carbon onto the diamond “seeds.”


How were Lab Diamonds First Made–How are they Made Now?

In the past, both of these processes generated mainly industrial-grad lab diamonds, but in the past 10 years or so, gem-quality material has become commercially viable. Best of all, lab-created diamonds are visually indistinguishable for consumers, and even specialists require expensive equipment to tell them apart.


How are Lab Created Diamonds Priced and Valued?

When pricing and valuing lab-created diamonds, the same basic criteria are used in evaluations as are applied to natural diamonds. For this reason, we can compare lab-grown and natural diamonds in an “apples to apples” fashion with their traditional counterparts. In other words, lab diamonds are evaluated according to the 4 Cs, which are described by the IGI here.

This means that we can talk about shape, cut, and other particular diamond grading on the same terms. Here, we’d like to focus on a topic not covered by the 4 Cs, and that is shape.

Many people think that “cut” is the same as “shape,” but that is not accurate. Instead, “cut” refers to how well a gemstone has been shaped by the gem cutter. In other words, was a quality job done, or was the “best” shape chosen for a particular stone?


How does a gem cutter decide on what shape to create?

Gem cutters, also called lapidaries, choose the future shape of any gem carefully. Lab-created diamonds are no different than any other stone in this respect. First, the stone is examined to determine if it is a good candidate for a faceted cut. Sometimes, this will be obvious, like with an opaque stone, and sometimes a good light and magnifier are needed. Then, the lapidary looks to examine the crystal structure.

Maybe that stone has inclusions (flaws) in a particular area that can either be cut out or hidden by facets, for example. Ultimately, for faceted stones the goal can be to get the most “fire” or sparkle, to maximize the size of the stone, or any combination of related factors. Lapidaries must also ensure that they choose the right shape for a stone’s crystal structure, to avoid accidentally destroying it. The extent to which a lapidary achieves a good cut within a given shape determines the “cut” rating later given by a gemology lab like the IGI.

All of With Clarity lab diamonds are IGI-certified because we want you to shop with confidence.

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What are the most popular lab diamond shapes?

Lab-created diamonds, like any gem, come in a variety of shapes. By far the most popular shape is the round brilliant, and this is true regardless of the type of diamond. It isn’t surprising, given that this shape has more fire than any other option. Similarly, the oval cut is another popular shape, since it has the “curb appeal” of seeming larger than it is.

Want a lab-grown diamond that looks larger than it is? Consider a marquise, pear, or cushion stone. Because these shapes require less of the original stone to be cut away, they are also economical for the purchaser.

In other words, these shapes require a smaller rough stone to produce the same weight of finished gem than certain other shapes, including brilliant. Actually, brilliant-cut stones are pretty wasteful in that regard! Oval, cushion, asscher, and emerald stones are also excellent choices. Something that makes fancy shaped gemstones a bit more affordable is the way the rough diamond forms in the laboratory growth process. The lab roughs allow for more of the round brilliant to be cut. This makes the stones more on par with the fancy shapes.

Keep in mind, choosing the lab diamond shape should also influence the clarity and color choices as well. That’s because gem shapes are partially chosen to hide flaws, and even lab-grown diamonds can have poor color or large inclusions. Therefore, if your budget requires that you choose a diamond with more of a yellow tinge or a larger inclusion, you might not want to choose a shape that makes this more obvious. For example, an emerald cut is often terrible in both of these situations, because it shows almost everything in the stone and makes color very obvious. Meanwhile, in this lab diamonds with brilliant cuts are more flaw-friendly.

Want something unique and romantic? At With Clarity, we have a variety of pear shaped lab diamonds. Pear shaped diamonds are a relatively economical choice. For one thing, they don’t require a lapidary to cut away quite so much of the original diamond rough. Furthermore, a pear shaped lab diamond ring is normally worn with the point of the diamond towards the wearer’s heart. We think that’s poignant for an engagement ring.


Final thoughts about price and lab diamonds:

Let’s say that you want a pear shaped lab created diamond for your ring setting. At With Clarity’s current prices, for a 1 carat pear-shaped lab stone, generally, you could be saving about 88% less than a 1 carat pear-shaped natural diamond (the percentage depending on the carat weight, color, clarity, and cut grade).

If you are on a small budget, it is worth knowing that at With Clarity, you will pay about 25%-75% less when purchasing a lab diamond versus a natural diamond (prices vary depending on diamond grading). At With Clarity we believe in options because we know that every life and love story is unique. Learn more about carat weight and cost.

Regardless of the shape of the stone you choose, even the brilliant cut, which is the most expensive by weight. Speak with a gemologist to learn more about the different lab diamond shapes that are available and how to balance other characteristics to obtain the perfect diamond for you.

Wait — I’m interested in a personalized lab diamond engagement ring, but where do I start?

Fill out our form below — We’ll have our experts send you lab diamond suggestions that fit your tastes and budget. Like one? Wonderful! We can chat from there. None of them fit? Tell us. Purchase with confidence!

Everything About Marquise Cut Diamonds | Diamond Education


The marquise diamond is a classic and historic diamond shape that captures hearts thanks to its whimsical shape that resembles a smile. Although we don’t blame you if you see something else. Marquise cut stones are also called boat-shaped, football-shaped and eye-shaped diamonds, or the navette. None of these are incorrect; in fact, the “navette” cut diamond, which translates from the French language to “little ship,” is often considered similar in shape to all these things. Despite their dramatic look, marquise cut diamond are rarely seen in engagement rings; but for some non-traditional brides, that only increases the appeal of these loose diamonds. Here’s what you need to know if you’re considering getting a marquise cut.

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What you need to know about the marquise diamond cut

We’ll get more into who created this captivating diamond shape later, but they did start quite the trend. The shape was invented specifically for the diamond, but the marquise cut trend eventually spread to sapphires, rubies, and other precious stones. Although the marquise never hits the popularity of other diamond shapes in engagement rings, it’s the perfect stone for couples looking for a unique ring to celebrate their love and devotion.

We’ve all seen marquise stones in rings, but maybe you didn’t realize they weren’t engagement rings. Traditionally this stone has been set in more cocktail and right-hand rings than their engagement cousins, but that has been changing. There’s good reason to choose this stone, too. It has almost 60 facets within its rounded central shape and sharply pointed ends, which means it truly delivers on the drama. You’ll get plenty of sparkle from the marquise cut stones but also style. This shape is particularly beloved for its unique ability to make fingers look thinner and longer.


Marquise diamond popularity

There’s a lot to love about the marquise cut diamond, even if you’re unfamiliar with this less common shape. We’ll get into those details later, but suffice it to say this shape is worth considering. Those looking for a unique engagement ring should consider the marquise diamond. Unlike the round and cushion, which you constantly see in engagement rings, a marquise diamond engagement ring turns heads simply because the center stone’s shape is out of the ordinary. But it’s not just offbeat brides sporting marquise cut rings. You’ll find plenty of celebrity engagement rings featuring the dramatic center stone:

  • Catherine Zeta-Jones wears a marquise cut diamond engagement ring, but she turned the style on its head and opted for an east-west setting
  • Ashlee Simpson sports a stunning vintage style engagement ring featuring a center marquise diamond surrounded by rubies in an Art Deco design
  • Portia de Rossi’s marquise diamond ring from Ellen DeGeneres features an east-west set marquise diamond and pink accent diamonds on the band
  • Christina Milian shows off her marquise cut engagement ring from Jas Prince, which features a double French set pave band
  • Victoria Beckham might currently wear a pear shaped diamond, but her original engagement ring from David featured a marquise diamond
  • Jennifer Lopez’s started her first marriage with a marquise diamond ring, though she’s now wearing a ring with an emerald cut diamond

The visual appeal of marquise cut diamonds

The marquise is a variant of round and pear shaped diamonds and, like the oval, is a perfect complement to long, slender fingers. But, as we mentioned, it can also create this effect thanks to its shape. The long-thin body and pointed ends draws the eye up, so your fingers will look longer and thinner when you’re sporting this stone in your engagement ring. But there are benefits for your ring as well as your hand.

This diamond shape’s elongated body can make its appearance larger than its actual carat weight. So you’ll be able to buy the same carat weight and have your stone look bigger than someone who purchases, say, a round brilliant diamond. For brides-to-be who prioritize the size of their rings, this is a major draw of the unique marquise cut. But size isn’t the only concern if you’re looking to commit to this diamond shape in your engagement ring.

Top Marquise Diamond Rings

Marquise shape ring setting recommendations

While choosing your diamond shape and engagement ring setting should ultimately come down to your personal choice, each diamond shape shines in particular settings. Marquise cut diamonds have inherent drama; the pointed ends make for an interesting and dramatic finish to the soft rounded center. Because of this, the marquise shape looks especially graceful in classic, solitaire and halo settings. After all, who wants to distract attention away from such a unique and captivating stone? But that doesn’t mean you’re limited in your engagement ring options if you decide this is the diamond for you.

Shorter marquise vs longer marquise

It’s common to have marquise shapes paired with other gemstones to create unique and interesting ring styles. (You might want to check out some sapphire and diamond engagement rings for some gorgeous inspiration.) But another way you can personalize your marquise cut engagement ring is through the stone’s ratio. The suggested length to width ratio ranges from 1.75 to 2.25. However, see if you prefer a longer or shorter marquise diamond to pick a shape that is visually appealing for you. A longer marquise diamond can create the illusion of a larger looking diamond as the carat weight is spread over a larger area. But you might prefer the look of a shorter marquise cut diamond, and that’s OK too. The most important thing is that you love your diamond.


Marquise diamond cut origin

The marquise diamond origin began hundreds of years ago. The name refers to a rank in the royal family between count and duke, given by birthright, not by marriage or appointing. The name came about as it was a reflection of the rank of courtiers who were able to wear these diamonds, though now they’re known by several names. The original version of this diamond cut was created in the 18th century by a jeweler hired by King Louis XV. He paid the jeweler to create a uniquely shaped diamond, comparable to the mouth of his beloved mistress.


Marquise cut pricing

Marquise cut diamonds, like other fancy shapes, tend to cost less than round cut diamonds of the same carat weight. (Marquise diamond price for a 1 carat stone hovers around $4586.) Round diamonds have greater rough diamond wastage, whereas marquise diamonds use the long shape of rough diamonds very well. These diamonds do a good job of distributing carat weight in the tips of the diamond, which allows the diamond to look larger than other shapes such as princess or cushion. Therefore, a 1.00 ct marquise diamond cut will be about 10.5 x 5 mm versus a 1.00 ct round cut diamond, which will be about 6.4 mm.

It is important to find well cut marquise shapes that don’t have light leakage from the bow tie effect, though. (This is when light is not reflected as sparkle back from the center of the diamond. You can find out more about diamond bow ties here.) Luckily, this is pretty easy to avoid at With Clarity. You can visually see the bow tie effect when looking at the diamond videos available on our loose diamonds catalog. Also feel free to chat with a diamond consultant about any diamond to learn if there is a bow-tie effect.

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Marquise diamond cut guide

This diamond shape offers unique beauty, but there are a couple things you need to keep in mind when shopping for a loose diamond. We’ve already mentioned the length to width ratio. To help you along the way while shopping, we’ve included a table about the ratio below, which includes depth and length to width ratio combinations for marquise cuts.

Diamond color

But another important consideration when selecting a marquise cut is the color. Marquise diamonds tend to show color more, specifically in the ends, because they have less depth in the tips. A G color marquise will look closer to an H color diamond. Consider opting for a stone one color grade higher with marquise shapes, when compared to round shaped diamonds. This will ensure that you get less faint yellow coloring in the dramatic ends of your beloved stone.

Diamond symmetry

As with any other diamond, you’ll also need to be sure that the diamond looks symmetrical. But an asymmetrical marquise cut can be easier to spot than, say, a cushion that’s off because of the ends. Make sure the two pointed ends align with each other. If possible, opt for a diamond with excellent or very good symmetry.

Diamond clarity

In terms of clarity, avoid a diamond that has visible inclusions in the central portion. By selecting a diamond that has inclusions on the pointed ends, they may be covered by the prongs when the diamond is placed in a diamond setting. A higher clarity grade becomes increasingly important as one is opting for a larger carat size. When choosing a ring setting, ensure that the marquise diamond is always set in a way where the points are protected to prevent them from chipping or cracking. With Clarity takes extra care to design and craft marquise rings so that the diamond is fully protected within the setting.

Depth % for Marquise Diamonds

Excellent: 66%-54%

Very Good: 76%-52%

Good: 78%-46%

Table % of Marquise Diamonds

Excellent: 66%-52%

Very Good: 68%-50%

Good: 75%-45%

Length to width Ratio for Marquise Diamonds


Marquise diamond settings

In general, the marquise cut diamond is for brides-to-be who are looking for a little drama on their ring. The shape is so striking that a 1 carat marquise diamond ring is going to be just as captivating as a more intricate ring. Similarly, a marquise diamond solitaire ring makes a statement without any additional diamonds or metal work, though that can certainly be added to acheive a look like a vintage marquise diamond ring. Another classic choice, especially for those opting for a 1 carat marquise diamond, is the marquise diamond halo ring. The halo emphasizes the shape but also adds a half carat of size to your center stone (for a fraction of the cost of getting a bigger diamond).

Popular marquise diamond ring settings

A popular trend in marquise diamond ring settings has been to get a marquise diamond set sideways on the band so the stone runs parallel with the band (or east to west on your hand). Also called east-west rings, they’re good choices for showing off a larger stone, like a 2 carat marquise diamond. One carat stones won’t extend far beyond the band, so it might be hard to see the star of the show (the center diamond) if it’s set this way. Another way to personalize your setting is to think about your metal choice. Rose gold can give your entire ring a subtle warm glow, whereas a marquise diamond yellow gold ring can look antique even if it’s brand new.


Marquise diamond size chart

Marquise cut diamonds have approximate millimeter sizes that correspond to certain carat weights. Please see a chart of the popular marquise diamond sizes and their carat weights. For all sizes and shapes, please visit our diamond size chart page.

There are also several anatomical features of a marquise diamond that are important to understand.

  • Belly: This is the central area of the marquise diamond is the fattest and this is where the width is measured.
  • Point: This is where the marquise diamond ends, this is the sharpest point of the diamond that is on both ends.
  • Wing: This is the curved area of the diamond that is in between the belly and the point of the diamond.
  • Girdle This is the edge of the diamond that is the intersection of the top ad bottom facets and goes all the way around the diamond.
  • Keel Line: This is the line that goes up to down over the length of the diamond.

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Lab Grown Marquise Diamonds vs Natural Marquise Diamonds/h3>

If you’ve decided that maquise diamonds are the right shape for you, should you purchase a lab marquise diamond or a natural marquise diamond. Rest assured both a lab made diamond and natural diamond have the same qualities and characteristics. They are graded on the same principles carat, color, clarity and other factors like symmetry and polish by accredited labs like GIA and IGI.

When trying to choose between a lab or a natural diamond, remember that natural diamonds are more traditional but do carry a premium in terms of pricing. Lab grown marquise diamonds are about 30% less expensive than their natural counterparts, depending on the size and quality. Ensure that you check for all the same parameters like length to width ratio and measurements to ensure the right look for your marquise engagement ring.

FAQ

What is a marquise diamond?

A marquise diamond has a pointed top and bottom and a rounded center. Marquise diamonds can be elongated or shorter and have a variety of measurements. So be sure to work with a gemologist to ask your questions when it comes to the right type of diamond in your engagement ring.

Are marquise diamonds in style?

Marquise diamonds are an uncommon choice for engagement rings as the shape is unconventional. Marquise diamonds can also require a little more care than other shapes as there are two pointed edges, that can be delicate if not set securely in a ring. For this reason, some may choose to avoid the shape. However, if you’re working with a trusted and vetted jeweler, you shouldn’t have any issues.

How do marquise diamonds look in an engagement ring?

Marquise diamonds have a longer look and are a great shape to elongate and slim the look of the finger. Because they also have a larger surface areas as compared to other diamonds, they are also great in terms of maximizing the surface area of the diamond to look bigger than other shapes when set in a ring. Marquise diamonds pair well with vintage inspired or classic ring settings.

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Emerald Cut Diamonds: Everything to Know

Emerald cut diamonds are a unique and elegant class of diamond cuts. Unlike most other shapes that are brilliant cuts, an emerald cut diamond is actually a step cut. Its faceting is not the traditional kite and star shaped facets of other loose diamonds; rather, emerald cuts have small rectangular facets that resemble stairs or steps.

These step-cut facets most certainly emit sparkle and brilliance, but in a more subdued fashion. Emerald cuts have very high appeal because of their long, elegant body. And you can easily see the attraction of an emerald cut diamond ring: this stone shape tends to look larger than others. That means it’s the perfect choice for a show-stopping engagement ring. Although emerald diamonds are most commonly rectangular, they can also be square.

Emerald cut diamonds look best in higher clarities because their large table and lack of brillianteering makes it difficult to mask inclusions. They do, however, handle color better than other fancy shapes. So selecting a lower color emerald diamond is not necessarily a problem. Even better, this combination of attributes can help your budget go further. Although a higher clarity diamond will cost more, you’ll save some money (without sacrificing on look) if you go for a lower color with the emerald cut diamond.

Emerald cut engagement rings have been increasing in popularity the last few years. Emerald cut diamond engagement rings are very sophisticated, and this diamond cut is actually commonly thought to be quite modern. However, emerald cut diamonds have origins that can be traced back to hundreds of years ago. As a matter of fact, this diamond cut is actually one of the oldest diamond shapes. Although their recent popularity could be attributed to this diamond shape’s sleek and clean look, celebrity engagement rings featuring this shape probably also have something to do with it.

Overall, emerald cut diamonds are very prevalent in celebrity culture, and they show no signs of losing popularity.

The emerald cut has stylistic origins that trace back to the 1500s, to the popular table cut. As time went on, the emerald diamond cut increased in popularity because it reduced the pressure during the cutting process. In turn, this prevented chips in the gems.

The official term “emerald cut” was first used in the 1920s. At this point in time, the emerald cut was extremely popular. With the rise of Art Deco, this cut got even more attention. Clean lines and symmetry were deeply admired, so many people got emerald cut diamond jewelry to go with the trend. Ever since then, emerald cut diamond engagement rings have remained a popular choice for women all over the world.

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History of Emerald Cut Diamonds

Even though many people associate them with the 1920s, emerald cut diamonds have been around since the late Middle Ages. This was before diamonds were even used in jewelry. People began to make “improvements” to nature’s design of the diamonds, which involved a simple polishing process. The octahedral crystal faces were polished to create a more even facet with fewer blemishes. This process was called the point cut, and it lasted until the middle of the 14th century.

By the time the 15th century came around, the point cut had improved immensely. Less than half of the octahedron was sawn off, which created the popular table cut. This was the point when people also began to realize the importance of a culet, which some table-cut diamond stones have.

Shortly after that, four corner facets were created. This process was known as the old eight cut or old single cut. These diamond cuts lacked any brilliance or fire, they were just wanted for their hardness. A table cut diamond would appear black to people, just like they would have been in paintings during this area. That’s why colored gemstones ( sapphire, ruby, etc.), were much more popular during the earlier centuries.

The first brilliant cuts came around during the mid 1700’s. They were known as Mazarins (a collection of 18 diamonds belonging to Cardinal Jules Mazarin). Cushion cuts became common in the 18th century. Finally, the emerald cut became well known and standardized in the 1940s, with the developments of diamond saws and more tools which enabled more cuts. The emerald cut replaced the step cut when jewelers and diamond cutters realized that they had the potential to bring “more fire” to diamonds when they used an emerald cut.

Asscher Cut vs Emerald Cut

Asscher cut and emerald cut diamonds are both well known for having a vintage sparkle, and also for their step-cut faceting. For people who are new to the world of diamonds (or even those we know lots about diamond cuts), it can sometimes be difficult to tell the two shapes apart. Many people assume that an Asscher cut is simply a square emerald cut, which isn’t the case.

The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is by the shape of the loose diamond. Emerald cut diamonds have a long and rectangular shape. Asscher cut diamonds, on the other hand, have more of a square shape. If an Asscher cut has a length to width ratio of 1.00 or even 1.06, it will be perfectly square, or look very close to a square. Emerald cut diamonds have a length to width ratio that is between 1.50 and 1.75, which gives them a thinner and elongated appearance.

These diamonds are also cut differently. Asscher cuts do not have as wide or open of a table as emerald cuts. This wide and open table is what gives emerald cuts their classic, elegant look. On an emerald cut, it will be very easy to see any blemishes and inclusions. Therefore, you are always better off going with a higher clarity grade for emerald cuts. Asscher cuts are known for having more faceting, though they also feature step cuts, and they have an “X” pattern that becomes apparent when you look at them from the top down.

Best Settings for Emerald Cut Diamonds

Emerald cut diamonds look great in a variety of settings. However, two of the most popular setting options are simple solitaire settings and glistening halo settings. Emerald cut solitaire engagement rings show off the sophistication of the center stone, but an emerald cut with diamond band can also be a sleek and understated option for the minimalist bride. But even though emerald cut solitaire rings and emerald diamond rings with a halo are common, they’re far from the only gorgeous options. Emerald cut three stone engagement rings are beautiful options, and emerald cut engagement rings with baguettes are gaining popularity. The baguette side stones mimic the step cuts of the emerald diamond center, making them a natural pairing.

But even if you choose an emerald cut diamond solitaire ring, there’s plenty of ways you can customize it. Metal choice is one of the easiest. Emerald cut gold engagement rings are surging in popularity, but each metal can give your ring a distinct look. White gold is, of course, the most popular. But more brides-to-be are opting for rose gold for its romantic symbolism, and yellow gold lends a vintage feel that some people adore.

Emerald-Cut Measurements Buying Guide

The length, width, and depth are all important when it comes to emerald cut diamonds. The ideal length to width ratio can be found by dividing the length of the diamond by its width. This will determine whether your diamond will be more square shaped, or more rectangular. The ratio that you end up going with is, of course, personal preference — but many gemologists will recommend that the best ratio for these diamonds is 1.45 to 1.55. If you want a longer and thinner cut, 1.6 would be better. If you prefer the square cut look, 1.3 is recommended. If you have more questions about gemstone length, height, and width, contact us.

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The depth percentage refers to how much light the diamond will reflect. If you aim for a diamond that has a depth percentage of anywhere from 60% to 70% of the stone’s width, you will get the most brilliance possible. In terms of color grade, there isn’t one color grade that is best for emerald cut diamonds. Most people prefer a G or H color diamond because they have a slightly warmer feel compared to the D, E, or F diamonds, which are colorless. When it comes down to it though, it’s just personal preference.

In fact, the G and H color diamonds can be perfect as emerald cut yellow gold engagement rings. The warmth of the yellow gold makes the color of the stone less noticeable, but the entire ring takes on a gorgeous, almost antique glow that many brides-to-be love. Emerald cut rose gold engagement rings can offer a more subdued version of this same effect. Plus, they say rose gold symbolizes romantic love, making this metal a fitting choice for the ring that expresses your love and devotion.

Emerald Diamond Guide

Emerald cuts, like other fancy shapes, do not have a cut grade assigned by GIA. With fancy shapes people have different preference on the shaping and faceting so GIA will only grade their polish and symmetry. Below are recommended ranges for table and depth for the respective cut grades. If you plan on getting an emerald cut engagement ring, get familiar with your personal preferences or ask an expert gemologist, like the ones we have on staff here, to help you understand the pros and cons of all options.

Depth % for Emerald Diamonds

Excellent: 72%-58%

Very Good: 74%-52%

Good: 78%-49%

Table % of Emerald Diamonds

Excellent: 72%-62%

Very Good: 77%-55%

Good: 80%-50%

Length to width Ratio for Emerald Diamonds

Emerald Diamond Size Chart

Emerald cut diamonds have approximate millimeter sizes that correspond to certain carat weights. Please see a chart of the popular emerald diamond sizes and their carat weights. For all sizes and shapes, please visit our diamond size chart page.

Emerald Cut Pricing

Like other fancy shapes, emerald cuts are fantastic at consuming much of a rough diamond’s carat weight. They require less manufacturing when being cut, compared to rounds, and waste less of the precious raw material. The trade off though, is that they can hide carat weight in their depth. Therefore, they are always cheaper than round cut diamonds.

But among the fancy shapes, you won’t be saving. Emerald cut diamonds more premium than other fancy shapes and they tend to be in line with cushion cut diamond pricing, and only slightly less than the princess. (If you want to see a breakdown of the cost of each style of 1 carat stone, check out our guide to diamond prices by shape.)

Emerald Cut Diamond Price Considerations

When selecting an emerald cut diamond, you should consider investing in a higher clarity. As mentioned, inclusions have a tendency to show more under the large table of the diamond. With brilliant cut diamonds, light can often bounce around facets and mask the inclusion. Because emerald cuts have limited facets, they will show the inclusions. Consider emerald cuts with high clarity or inclusions that are off center and closer to the diamond’s girdle. Higher clarity grades will cost you more, but you can often offset this a little with a slightly lower color grade in this shape.

The length to width ratio is also particularly important in emerald cut diamonds. Emerald cuts can be square or rectangular and even then, they can be long or short. The optimal emerald cut ratio for a square is 1.00 to 1.05. There is no optimal rectangular ratio as it is purely preference. The typical ratios though, are approximately 1.35, 1.50 and 1.75. The ratio is determined by dividing length by width. Before you browse loose diamonds, you should know the look you’re going for. An expert gemologist can also help narrow your search here at With Clarity if you know what length to width ratio is your ideal in this shape.

Emerald Cut Diamond Rings

For every diamond cut, there’s a jewelry category for which it is best suited. Square cut diamonds make remarkable tennis bracelets. Round brilliant cut gems create lovely solitaire necklaces and diamond studded chains. As for the emerald cut diamonds, they look especially beautiful in rings.

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Popular Settings for Emerald Cut Diamonds

Because of the unique shape of the elongated rectangle shape of the emerald cut diamond, it can be difficult to find a ring setting befitting its elegance and sophistication. It takes a little trial and error to find the best setting and stone combinations for this specific diamond cut. One popular choice is the solitaire setting with a plain metal band because there’s no need to worry about which secondary stone cuts or type of metal work pair well with the diamond’s characteristics. The only decision you have to make with this setting is what size diamond you would like. However, some people want accent diamonds in the band, so they may choose a solitaire setting with small diamonds encrusting the band.

As a rule, halo type settings are hard to match well with emerald cut diamonds. However, with a very small accent diamonds making up the halo and little beaded metalwork outlining it, an emerald cut diamond ring takes on a lovely, antique appearance. This specific design and style for this setting is among the most popular choices because it looks like an emerald cut vintage diamond ring. Perhaps the most popular setting for emerald cut diamond rings, which is described below, is the tri-stone ring setting.


Three Stone Emerald Cut Diamond Rings

Three-stone emerald cut rings are exactly what their name advertises: an emerald cut diamond nested between two gems bearing a cut that compliments the emerald cut at the center. While not every diamond cut pairs well with the emerald cut, there are a couple that make fantastic combinations for engagement rings.

Tapered baguette diamonds are another type of diamond that is difficult to pair with other diamond cuts and shapes in jewelry. However, when paired with emerald cut diamonds, they give rings a classic, vintage style look.

Some people prefer to stick to what they know, which is that stones of the same cut will always match well with each other. That means that the three-stone settings with three emerald cut diamonds is an exceptionally popular style for emerald cut engagement rings. Your personal preference determines the size of the two additional emerald cut stones, but just about any size makes for a simple yet stunning ring design.

Because of their similarities, rectangle cut diamonds also team up well with emerald cuts in the three-stone setting. However, in this case, size does matter, so choose the size of your rectangular diamonds wisely!

Quality is extremely important when shopping for an emerald cut diamond engagement ring. One downside to this diamond cut is that emerald diamonds reveal clarity inclusions more than other cuts do. Therefore, imperfections are easier to see. This is due to the long step cuts that an emerald diamond consists of. In order to purchase a quality diamond, aim for a clarity grade of anything above VS2. By doing so, you will ensure that there are no visible imperfections on the diamond.

When you make the decision to purchase an emerald cut diamond engagement ring, it comes with many benefits. One appealing aspect of these rings is that an emerald cut makes the engagement ring look larger. For example, the average 1 carat emerald cut diamond has a 5% greater surface area than a round cut diamond of the same weight. Even though both diamond cuts are 1 carat, the top surface of an emerald cut diamond will look larger. Therefore, you are getting a diamond that looks larger without the larger price tag.

Another benefit of emerald cut diamond engagement rings is that they make fingers appear more slender. Since the emerald cut is elongated, they draw the eye up and down the finger. This essentially creates an optical illustion that gives off the appearance of longer and leaner fingers. Of course, this isn’t appealing to everyone, but some people love this aspect.

Another benefit is that emerald cut diamonds are generally less expensive than round brilliants. Despite their rarity, you can still expect to spend anywhere from 15-25% less on an emerald cut diamond engagement ring than you would on a round one. But because of its rarity, they tend to be a little more expensive than other fancy diamond shapes.

Furthermore, emerald cut diamonds are quite rare, so very few people will have rings even remotely similar to yours. There are plenty of ways to personalize your ring. You can even tap one of our expert gemologists to help if you’re looking for something special but haven’t quite figured out what you want.

For some people, the fact that emerald cut diamond rings aren’t readily available in every possible setting is a plus because it reduces shopping and researching time. However, it may still take longer to find the perfect ring if you don’t find exactly what you’re looking for within the selections offered.

Diamond Shapes [Guide to Top 10 Diamond Cuts]

Virtually all
diamond cuts sold for use in jewelry are one of ten round or fancy diamond shapes. The most popular diamond shapes
are:

Following is an introduction to each shape, including information on how to determine the best combination of size,
color, and clarity for your needs. View our
side-by-side comparison of each diamond shape to see how shape affects apparent size as well.

The
round cut diamond is the most popular diamond shape, representing approximately 75% of all diamonds sold. Due
to the mechanics of its shape, the round diamond is generally superior to fancy shapes at the proper reflection of
light, maximizing potential brightness.
more on round diamonds…

The
princess cut diamond, first created in 1980, is the most popular fancy diamond shape, especially for engagement
rings. Like round cut diamonds, princess cut diamonds are a good choice for their flexibility in working in almost
any style of ring.
more on princess cut diamonds…

Because the
oval diamond is a modified
brilliant-cut (like virtually all round cut diamonds), the two diamond shapes possess a similar
fire and
brilliance. However, oval cut diamonds have the added advantage of an elongated shape, which can create the illusion
of greater size.
more on oval diamonds…

The
marquise cut diamond is a football-shaped, modified
brilliant-cut. Because the marquise diamond is long and narrow, it can also create the illusion of greater size.
Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a good
choice when trying to maximize perceived size.
more on marquise diamonds…

The modified
brilliant-cut
pear shaped diamond is a combination of a round and a marquise shape, with a tapered point on one end. Ideally,
a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the
rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should
form uniform, symmetrical curves.
more on pear shaped diamonds…

The
cushion cut diamond combines a square cut with rounded corners, much like a pillow (hence the name). This classic
cut has been around for almost 200 years, and for the first century of its existence was the most popular diamond
shape (similar to round cut today). Refinements in cut have led to a recent resurgence in popularity.
more on cushion cut diamonds…

The unique look of the
emerald cut diamond is due to the
step cuts of its
pavilion and its large, open
table. Instead of the sparkle of a
brilliant-cut, emerald cut diamonds produce a hall-of-mirrors effect, with the interplay of light and dark planes.
Often,
inclusions or body
color are easier to see in an emerald cut diamond.
more on emerald cut diamonds…

The
asscher cut diamond was first produced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, an is a forerunner to the
emerald cut. The asscher cut diamond is similar to the emerald cut, but in a square shape with larger step facets,
a higher crown, and a smaller
table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut.
more on asscher cut diamonds…

The
radiant cut diamond is the first rectangular cut to have a complete
brilliant-cut facet pattern applied to both the crown and pavilion, creating a vibrant and lively diamond. The
modified square shape is a nice bridge between a cushion and a princess cut, and for that reason looks beautiful
set with both rounded or square cornered diamonds.
more on radiant cut diamonds…

The modified
brilliant-cut
heart shaped diamond is a unique and unmistakable symbol of love, popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings.
Heart shaped diamonds less than .50 carats may not be a good choice, since the heart shape is more difficult to perceive
in smaller diamonds, especially after they are set in prongs.
more on heart shaped diamonds…

Next: Diamond Carat Weight

Different Types of Diamond Cuts: Classification

Let’s see what different types of diamond cuts are there and what their characteristics are.

Diamond Cut vs. Shape

People often use the words “cut” and “shape” interchangeably when talking about diamonds. However, these two terms have slightly different meanings.

Shape refers to the general outline of a stone.

On the other hand, although a specific cut implies a certain shape, the term cut technically refers to the number, arrangement, shape, and proportions of a stone’s facets.

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So, a diamond’s shape tells you how a stone looks, whereas its cut gives you information as to how this shape has been achieved through cutting.

Technically, two diamonds may have the same or similar shapes, but their cuts will be considered different if their facets are arranged or shaped differently.

Although cut and shape mean different things, in most cases, a diamond’s cut tells you what its shape is, and vice versa.

Facets

When talking about diamond cuts, we should also say a word about facets. The facets of a diamond play a very important role in how it reflects light and, consequently, how much brilliance the stone gives off.

As we already saw, you can have two cuts with the same shape, but what makes them different is how they are faceted.

For example, some cuts have more facets than others; other cuts can have facets of the same shape, but they can differ in how these facets are arranged.

Brilliant Cuts, Step Cuts, and Mixed Cuts

Brilliant cuts have facets that are arranged in such a way as to maximize the stone’s brilliance. The classic round cut is a brilliant cut.

Step cuts, in contrast, have facets that are parallel to each other and to the stone’s edge, and they do not enhance the brilliance and sparkle of the diamond. The emerald cut is an example of a step cut.

Mixed cuts have features of both brilliant and step cuts. For example, the radiant cut is a type of mixed cut.

Fancy Cuts

A fancy cut is any diamond cut that is different from the classic round cut. For example, the pear cut, the heart cut, and the oval cut are all fancy diamond cuts.

Cut Grading

There are different grading scales for diamond cut, but in general, cut is graded according to how close its proportions are to those of an accepted benchmark.

The round cut benchmark is the most developed standard for cut grading, and the guidelines for its proportions are very detailed. The grading standards for other cuts are not as well established and are, in general, much less restrictive.

Common Types of Cuts and Shapes

Although there are a number of diamond cuts available in the market, here are the ones you are most likely to see when shopping for jewelry:

Round Cut

The round cut is perhaps the most popular diamond cut sold today.

This is the cut that is specifically designed to maximize brilliance, and for this reason, flaws and yellow tints in round-cut diamonds are less visible than in stones of other cuts.

Many consumers consider the round cut the classic diamond cut.

Princess Cut

The princess cut is similar to the round cut in that both are brilliant cuts, but the princess cut has a rectangular outline instead of a round one.

Although not as brilliant as the round cut, the princess cut is a good alternative to it if you are looking for a diamond that has a square or rectangular shape while exhibiting a good amount of sparkle.

Emerald and Asscher Cuts

The emerald cut is a rectangular step cut with trimmed corners, and its square variation is called “Asscher cut.”

The emerald and Asscher cuts differ only in outline, but the shape and arrangement of their facets are the same.

These cuts do not have as much brilliance as the round or princess cuts, and thus any imperfections or color tints in the emerald and Asscher cuts are more visible.

Cushion Cut

Cushion-cut diamonds look rectangular or square, but their corners are rounded, making the stone’s shape look like a pillow. The cushion cut belongs to the group of brilliant cuts.

Radiant Cut

The radiant cut has a rectangular or square shape with truncated corners. This is yet another brilliant cut, and it is often compared to the cushion cut.

The radiant cut has some features that are characteristic of the emerald cut, and this commonality leads some people to classify the radiant cut as a mixed cut.

Oval Cut

The oval cut is another brilliant diamond cut and can be viewed as a modified version of the round cut.

An oval-cut diamond is a good choice if you want your piece of jewelry to create the impression of length, especially if the stone is mounted in a ring.

Marquise Cut

Marquise-cut diamonds have an oval-looking outline, but they have two pointed ends.

These sharp points are especially vulnerable to chipping and should be protected properly by the setting when the diamond is mounted in a piece of jewelry.

Pear Cut

The pear cut has an oval-looking shape, and one of its ends is pointed, making this cut’s outline look like a drop or a pear.

Pear cuts combine features of the marquise cut and the oval cut.

If you have a pear-shaped diamond, make sure its sharp end is protected when set in a piece of jewelry.

Heart Cut

The heart cut looks very similar to the pear cut, but the rounded end of a heart-shaped diamond has a cleft.

If you are buying a heart-cut diamond, make sure its left and right parts are symmetrical.

Trilliant Cut (Trillion Cut)

The trilliant (or trillion) cut has a triangular outline.

Its ends can be pointed or rounded, and if they are sharp, they will be vulnerable to chipping, so they should be protected accordingly when worn.

Trilliant-cut diamonds are often used as side stones, but they can also be worn as center diamonds.

A Guide to Diamond Shapes and Cuts

When selecting a diamond, the shape of the diamond itself is one of the most important considerations. Each of the various diamond shapes has its own unique characteristics. Like all jewelry and fashion items, the most popular diamond shapes can depend on current trends and fads. Below you will find a description of the different diamond shapes you are most likely to encounter. Currently the two most popular shapes are the round brilliant and the princess cut.

Early Round Diamonds

The earliest diamonds were fashioned with primitive tools at a time when it was only possible to place a few rudimentary facets on them. Because the most common diamond crystal is octahedral in shape, the easiest way to cut them was to grind down the points to form a large table on one end, a small culet on the other, and round out the corners. This resulted in the “old mine cut” diamond which was more rectangular than round. Over the years it was further refined with the addition of more facets to become the ‘old European cut’, the predecessor to the modern round brilliant.

Round Brilliant

The venerable Round Brilliant or Round Cut Diamond remains by far the most popular diamond cut of all. So much so that most the gem itself is identified by this iconic shape. It is a timeless classic that is always in style and has been for hundreds of years. Because of its symmetrical geometry, a well cut round diamond has the greatest ability of any shape to maximize light performance. The A CUT ABOVE® Round Hearts and Arrows Super Ideal Diamond, with proven optics of the highest order exemplifies the extraordinary potential of the round brilliant.

Despite its enormous popularity, the round brilliant is not for everyone. To satisfy a range of personal tastes, a wide variety of diamond shapes have been developed over the years. Diamond shapes other than round are referred to as ‘fancy shapes’. The original contour of the rough diamond often determines which fancy shape diamond will be cut, as yield is a driving factor for the diamond cutter. That is, if a given piece of rough can be cut into a certain fancy shape with a resulting size significantly greater than what could be extracted in a round, then the cutter may elect to make that choice. His calculation also depends on the current demand for the fancy shape being considered.

Below are the most popular fancy diamond shapes. Other shapes are also available and may be quite desirable for very specific applications. But the following are the diamond shapes you are most likely to see in jewelry.

Princess Diamond

Like the Round Brilliant, the Princess Cut diamond has faceting patterns that gives it sparkle and brilliance. They are usually square cut with pointed corners, although some are more rectangular in shape. Princess cut diamonds are second only to the round brilliant in their popularity. They are also priced lower than comparable Round Brilliant diamonds, which makes them an excellent choice for a shopper looking for value!

Cushion Diamond

The Cushion Cut diamond is one of the diamond shapes that was very popular a century ago and has come back into fashion with today’s surge in vintage styles. It is also sometimes referred to as the “pillow-cut” and has rounded corners and large facets. Cushion cut diamonds can vary between a rectangular and square shape.

Emerald Diamond

Another of the fancy shape diamonds is the elegant Emerald cut diamond. They are normally rectangular in shape and have step-cut elongated facets on the crown and pavilion, with small cut corners giving the diamond an octagonal outline. The Emerald cut diamond is very revealing of clarity features so higher clarity grades are usually seen in this shape.

Asscher Diamond

The Asscher Cut diamond is nearly identical to an Emerald cut diamond. Joseph Asscher was a diamond cutter who developed and patented the Asscher cut diamond in 1902. It is a square step cut diamond with a small table and a high crown. It also has wide step facets and because of the way its cut, the Asscher has more fire and reflects light more than an Emerald cut diamond and has been gaining in popularity in recent years.

Oval Diamond

The Oval Cut diamond has brilliant faceting similar to a round diamond but it is elliptical or egg-shaped. The Oval cut has always been one of the most popular of the fancy shapes, especially as a center stone for engagement rings. Its shape can give the appearance of long and slender fingers. It’s important to watch for the “bow-tie” effect when selecting an Oval. This is a noticeable darkening in the middle of the diamond that actually resembles a bow-tie.

Marquise Diamond

Like an oval with points on each end, the “football” shape of a Marquise cut diamond creates an appearance that looks larger than its carat weight would suggest. It is a brilliant cut stone with 57 facets. The shape of Marquise cut diamonds can vary greatly as the length to width ratio changes. The “bow-tie” (darkening) effect is also something to look for in this shape. Like all fancy cut diamonds, a Marquise diamonds shape is a matter of personal taste.

Pear Diamond

A Pear shape diamond is a combination of the Round and Marquise cut with one rounded end and a pointed end. It is also referred to as a “tear drop” shape. The typical Pear shape diamond is cut like a round brilliant with 58 facets. The pear shape diamond is a popular choice for diamond pendants.

Radiant Diamond

The Radiant Cut diamond is a rectangular cut diamond with trimmed corners. The outline is like that of an emerald cut but it has a much different flavor as it does not have the step cuts of the emerald. A radiant looks more like a rectangular Princess cut diamond with clipped corners.

Heart Diamond

The Heart shape diamond features a brilliant style faceting arrangement and an outline with two lobes, a cleft and a point. Although the shape is the universal symbol of love, there is not a huge demand for the Heart shape diamond. The shape is not very distinct is small carat diamonds, so anything below 0.50 carats is not recommended.

Trilliant Diamond

The Trilliant diamond is triangular is shape with a brilliant facet arrangement. There are slight variations of this cut and it is sometimes called the trillion cut. Trilliants are popular as side stones for center diamonds with brilliant cutting styles like the princess cut.

Step Cuts vs Brilliant Styles

The step cuts differ from the brilliant styles rather dramatically in terms of optical effects. Step cuts such as emerald cut and Asscher, with their long and broad facets, tend to produce fewer but bigger sparkles. Brilliant styles such as the round, princess, oval, pear, and marquise produce a great number of smaller sparkles. The resulting scintillation patterns therefore produce altogether different looks. These two broad categories offer very different options for shoppers to choose from. Which overall effect you find most appealing is a very personal aesthetic choice, not only in outline shape but in the different ‘flavors’ each presents to the eye.

What is length to width ratio and why does it matter?

The length to width ratio of fancy cut diamonds conveys an important aspect of their geometry and also can impact their light performance. Most fancy cuts like emerald cut, pear shape, and oval are longer than they are wide. Princess cuts and Asschers are almost square, so this factor is largely moot. Length to width ratio is a simple calculation; the length (in millimeters) divided by the width. A higher number indicates a more elongated shape. The length/width ratio of a marquise shape may be almost 2 – twice as long as it is wide -whereas an emerald cut or radiant might be in the neighborhood of 1.5. This factor impacts the visible outline or overall shape of the diamond and its eye appeal. A fancy diamond with a ratio out of normal ranges may also suffer from light leakage or other light performance deficits that reduce its fire and brilliancy.

What is the Best Diamond Shape?

As you have seen in this article, there are many beautiful diamond shapes. Each shape presents a different geometry and individual aesthetic. Step cuts have an altogether different flavor than brilliant styles. Some shapes may be more compatible with certain jewelry designs than others, and some offer more affordable pricing. So, the best diamond shape is really the one that is best for YOU.

Having said that, the goal for most shoppers is to find the most brilliant and fiery diamond they can afford. If this is your driving force, the round brilliant is the shape that offers the best potential for optimizing light performance. Ideal and super ideal cut diamonds return over 90% of the light entering their crowns back to the eye of the observer. Their mix of large and small virtual facets provides for outstanding fire and dazzling scintillation. And choices for beautiful jewelry styles abound, such as those offered by the top designer brands in the market.

At Whiteflash we specialize in ideal and super ideal round and princess cut diamonds, and we carry a large in-house inventory of fully vetted diamonds available for immediate delivery. Diamonds in our in-house categories (A CUT ABOVE®, Expert Selection, and Premium Select) are exclusive to Whiteflash and will not be found anywhere else. But we also provide customers with a full range of shapes through our Virtual Selection category which allows customers to leverage all the advantages of our expertise in light performance, and thorough vetting by our team of gemologists.

Feel free to contact us by phone, email or chat and one of the friendly and knowledgeable Whiteflash diamond consultants will help you find the diamond that is just right for YOU, whatever shape that may be.
90,000 Cutting types – Moscow Jewelry Factory

Round diamond


Until the early 20th century, brilliant cut shapes developed empirically as craftsmen sought to achieve the optimum sparkle effect. It was only since 1910 that theoretical calculations began to be applied, taking into account the optical-physical properties of diamonds – such as light refraction, dispersion and hardness – to achieve the greatest sparkle through the appropriate proportions and symmetry ratios.The pioneer of brilliant cutting was a scientist of Russian origin – Marcel Tolkovsky, who in 1919 was the first to calculate the almost ideal parameters of a round brilliant cut. Today, the Tolkowski diamond is considered the “standard” cut in America and is the basis for evaluating a cut. Of all the different cuts, the “circle” is the classic cut.

85% of the sales of all diamonds in the world are made up of round stones. Natural diamonds are not round, so a significant weight of the original diamond is lost when creating a diamond, which leads to a high cost of the finished round diamond.The round shape has won its popularity due to its optical properties, i.e., sparkling, scintillation, play of light. Another advantage of round diamonds is the ability to use a more elegant form of setting for them, which will not overlap with all the luxury of the multifaceted brilliance of a diamond.

Princess-cut diamond


The princess is the most popular cut after the round brilliant. The sparkle that meets the highest demands and the unique shape of the “Princess” makes her a favorite for diamond-cut engagement rings.

“Princess” is traditionally square in shape and with sharp corners. The diamond repeats the natural shape of a part of an octahedral diamond crystal (if you turn the Princess upside down and down with a spike, then it resembles a pyramid in shape), therefore, when making the Princess, the weight loss of the original diamond is less than that of a round diamond, which affects the cost of the diamond … It is necessary to take into account, “Princesses” are often not strict squares, depending on the ratio of length to width, the stone can be either a square or a rectangle.Princess diamonds are perfect for single inserts into earrings, pendants or rings.

Marquis-cut diamond

In the collection of diamonds of Cardinal Mazarin, who lived in the early Baroque era, there was a diamond weighing more than 15 carats, similar in shape to the modern “Marquis” – then such diamonds were called “Navette”, i.e. e. a shuttle or a small boat, and cut from elongated diamonds. The name of the diamond “Marquis” appeared only a century later thanks to the famous smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, a passionate lover of art and luxury, the favorite of King Louis XV.According to legends, the king wished to present the Marquise with a diamond shaped like her radiant smile. Therefore, in the 21st century, we can safely say that the Marquis diamond has become a traditional classic, although it was first presented to the public several decades ago.

The graceful “Marquis” diamond of an oblong cut looks spectacular, surrounded by small diamonds, smoothing its wedge-shaped ends. The elongated shape of the Marquis diamond creates the effect of long and narrow ladies’ fingers.

Pear-shaped diamond


“Pear” – combines the merits of the “Marquis” cut and oval cut. Another name for this type of cut is “Drop”. Teardrop-shaped diamonds are very popular in modern jewelry art, most often they are set in earrings and pendants. Among the largest diamonds in the world, there are quite a few pear-shaped stones. The elongated “Pear” is able to visually lengthen the fingers.

Brilliant-cut Oval

Oval has long been a traditional representative of the brilliant cut and has existed for over 50 years. The principle of cutting an oval diamond is the same as that of a round diamond, only the “Oval” has an elongated shape. If we compare the “Oval” with a round diamond, then with the same weight of diamonds, the area for an oval diamond is large, therefore the oval diamond shines and “plays” like a round one, but visually wins in size.

Women with small fingers choose the oval shape of the diamond because it visually increases their length. The Oval diamond looks great in rings, earrings and pendants, and is usually adorned with small diamonds.

Brilliant cut “Heart”

The most romantic heart-shaped diamond, symbolizing the purity and power of love. Thanks to its cut shape, the Heart diamond has become a popular gift for Valentine’s Day and other important dates that mark significant love affairs.

The heart-shaped diamond resembles a “Pear” by the cutting principle. The heart shape is most popular for pendants and rings, sometimes used in earrings. The cut of the Heart diamond is quite complex, but it hides well the flaws of the diamond and best demonstrates the beauty of the diamond.

Emerald cut diamond

The Emerald diamond is a stepped cut with truncated corners and an octagonal contour.This type of cut has less “play”, but the brilliance of a diamond is manifested in wider and brighter flashes of light. If the shape of the Emerald diamond is square, this shape is called Asher.

The refined and elegant Emerald diamond is mainly used in rings.

An emerald cut diamond can be absolutely gorgeous. This cut is becoming more and more popular these days.

Radiant-cut diamond

The Radiant diamond has a rectangular or square shape with an octagonal outline and is a combination of stepped and brilliant cut.The Radiant diamond combines the elegance of the Emerald and the beauty of the Princess. The corners of the diamond are trimmed to increase the brilliance. This cut looks especially attractive when processing a large stone.

Thanks to the beveled corners “Radiant” is easy to fix and less prone to chipping.

Also popular with men

Cushion-cut diamond


Sometimes this cut is also called antique or antique.As a rule, “Cushion” is used when it is necessary to preserve the original weight of the mineral as much as possible. So, most diamonds of the Baroque era were given just such a shape.

“Cushion” – a rectangular cut with wide edges and convex sides. At the same time, the corners are softened, they are rounded. The girdle is in the shape of a sofa cushion, which is why this treatment is called cushion. The first such diamonds appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century and since then have been modified in every possible way. Cushion diamonds can differ significantly from each other – after all, when grinding, jewelers strive to preserve the mass of the crystal as much as possible and improve it.The type of cut of such diamonds is called brilliant. Interestingly, the Couchon diamond sparkles as brightly as possible in the candlelight. The shape is most popular for pendants and rings.

Types of gem cut – Gold Standard

02/10/2020

A diamond is a natural gemstone obtained by processing a hard diamond. It perfectly complements any jewelry, giving it a luxurious and expensive look. In addition, the stone tends to absorb sparkling and warm feelings, bring strength and courage, and strengthen love feelings.

But did you know that an uncut diamond will not look so attractive and expensive? In order to obtain a high-quality stone, initially the gem must meet the quality criteria and be suitable for processing, otherwise the value of the diamond is lost. Therefore, today we will tell you about what a cut diamond is, why the cut of a diamond is important and what types of cut are there.

Criteria for evaluating a diamond

According to the well-known generally accepted “rule 4C”, the criteria for evaluating the quality of stones is divided into:

  • stone weight – carat.
  • its purity.
  • mineral color.
  • cut.

Note that the US Gemological Institute, which has authority and is associated with these stones, established these criteria, which apply to this day. The number 4 means the number of characteristics, and the letter C is the name of the criteria, because in English these values ​​begin with one letter – carat, clarity, color, cut.

Why cut diamonds?

As mentioned above, there are four criteria for evaluating a diamond, each of which is of great importance and affects the price of the stone.However, the most important characteristic is precisely the purity of the cut. A cut diamond is obtained by polishing and cutting a rough stone, resulting in a diamond of a specific shape. More precisely, a cut is a shape with a specific device and shape of the facets.

The number, location and shape of the facets determine the type of cut. Take, for example, the round shape of the cut: the number, the indicated shape and the angle of the edges of the mineral must meet all standards and recommendations exactly.

This is important as these characteristics will have a huge impact on the stone’s ability to refract and reflect penetrating light. Thus, the more light returns to the surface of the diamond, the more it will shine and reflect this light brighter. If the stone has an irregularly shaped facet, then it will be very dull, respectively, the cost of a diamond will be low or it will not be used at all in jewelry. Therefore, the perfect cut is very important.

How is diamond cutting done?

Initially, a diamond is a hard and dull stone. To get the correct cut of the stone, the diamond must go through several stages:

  1. The jeweler first conducts a thorough examination to determine the boundaries for separating the facets. To do this, he uses a magnifying glass with a tenfold magnification. Note that it is necessary to properly saw the diamond in the direction of the grains. Also the blade for sawing use is used only covered with diamond dust and oil.
  2. Next, grinding takes place, during which the diamond is shaped. First, all the unevenness of the stone is removed, then the master creates a specific pattern from the edges. The jeweler starts cutting itself from the flat part of the top of the mineral, and then the angled edges at the bottom of the diamond are drawn.

Types of cut diamonds

Forms of cut diamonds are different. Today, the following varieties of round and fancy cut diamonds are known:

  1. Round cut. The most popular classical form, which has been in use for over a hundred years, and was invented by Marcel Tolkowski. According to him, light goes through the following stages:
    • penetrates into the diamond and passes through the entire surface;
    • further refraction of light occurs;
    • then reflection from the bottom;
    • at the end it takes on a rainbow hue, which comes back to create the same play of light.

    As a rule, round cuts contain 57, 33 and 17 facets. However, 57 of them perfectly reveal the brilliance of a bailed diamond, while the rest are suitable for medium and small stones.This fashionable cutting technique allows diamonds to look good and be versatile in any piece of jewelry.

  2. Oval cut . The oval cut appeared after the round cut. Diamonds are very similar to elongated wedges. There are 57 facets that refract light in a very unusual way and fascinate anyone who looks at them. Oval cut diamond earrings, as well as bracelets, pendants and pendants will look good.
  3. Baguette Cut .Stones with this cut are rectangular or trapezoidal. The number of faces varies, but the most popular is 12. Baguette cut is appropriate for small stones. But it is worth noting that in jewelry such diamonds are more used to frame a larger stone.
  4. Heart Cut . An unusual cut with notes of romance, reminiscent of a heart, is quite complex in terms of processing technique. The number of faces is usually 57-58.

    When choosing jewelry with such a diamond, look carefully at the outlining line – it should be even and clearly visible.After all, the shape of the heart will depend on it. The love symbol cut is very popular in jewelry. A real diamond will look great in a gold pendant or pendant setting, as well as in earrings and rings.

  5. Marquis cut . The cut, which has 55 facets, belongs to the varieties of the oval cut, but has the main difference – the pointed limb. Someone sees in her a luxurious smile, and someone a small boat.Active and independent women prefer jewelry with “marquis” diamonds. Also, such stones are popular in rings, but it is more practical to use them in earrings and pendants, since diamonds with pointed ends are very fragile. Therefore, if you often work with your hands, it is better not to buy such rings.
  6. Princess Cut . One of the most popular cuts, ranked second in popularity. “Princess” is a continuation of the round and oval cut.The result is a rectangular shape with the same beautiful shine as a round one, but the price of jewelry with such canes is much cheaper.

    This cut often has 49, 65 or 68 facets. A princess cut diamond ring will perfectly highlight the dignity of a woman’s hand and will suit almost every girl. Therefore, the diamond is often used in engagement and wedding rings.

  7. Cut “Drop” (“Pear”) . The cut has 55-56 facets.It is considered a transitional version between oval and marquise cuts. In its shape, the “Drop” can be seen at one angle oval, and from the other – the same pointed, like the “Marquis”.

    Note that not all jewelry will look good with such a diamond. For example, it will fit in earrings, but not in rings, it will be impractical. Pendants or pendants ending with a “drop” will also look elegant and romantic.

  8. Emerald Cut . This elegant cut is used not only for diamonds, but also for other expensive stones.The most popular number of facets is 57 and 65.

    The shape of the cut resembles a rectangle with large facets. If the stone is small, then there is no point in processing it using this technique. However, now there is not only a rectangular, but also a square shape. As for the use in jewelry, the “emerald” will be ideal for pendants, necklaces or rings. Inlaid with small stones in earrings, which are suitable for an evening look, will also look beautiful.

  9. Asher Cut .This type of cut is very similar to the “Emerald”, but has a square shape with a different number of facets, which will depend on the weight. In simple words, with increasing weight, the likelihood of getting more faces increases. And in rings, and in pendants, and in bracelets, it will look great. However, not every woman will be appropriate. Such jewelry is suitable for girls who prefer the Art Deco style.
  10. Trilliant Cut . One of the young “Trilliant” cut methods, which came from Holland, has a different number of facets, but the most popular are 19, 37 and 52 facets.Its name comes from an equilateral triangle with smooth and sharp corners. The main feature of the cut is that the facets will have the shape and quantity of the wishes and fantasies of the jeweler, but also the original size of the diamond.
  11. Radiant Cut . The cut has a different number of facets (the most popular 65.70), but differs from all in the large size of the stone. The number of faces will directly depend on the size of the diamond. Also, this method of cutting resembles an octagon and is very similar to the “Princess” and “Emerald”.

In jewelry, this stone will look simply gorgeous, as it has massive dimensions. Therefore, not everyone will be able to afford such expensive products.

Brilliant Cutting Standards

Diamond Cutting Standards can have a five-step scale of grades:

  • Poor.
  • Mediocre.
  • Good.
  • Very good.
  • Distinctive.

The quality of the cut is denoted by the first four letters (A, B, C, D), where the latter means “the worst”.

Note that there are developed standards for a round cut of a diamond for the correct assessment of the cut quality. According to the Gemological Institute of America, there are grades ranging from excellent to poor.

Please note that according to these grading standards it is not recommended to buy varieties that are below the “good” indicator, since the mediocre and bad ones do not have a bright shine and look dull, accordingly, jewelry with such diamonds will look ugly.

How to read the cut information on the manufacturer’s tag?

We have already figured out what a diamond cut is, why it is needed and what types there are. If you have already chosen a diamond jewelry for yourself, then familiarize yourself with how to correctly parse the information on the product tag.

Typically, the tag contains letters and numbers that indicate the number of diamonds, the weight and clarity of the stone, the shape of their cut, the number of facets and whether there are any defects.

For example, the Kv value means a square cut, M – “Marquis”, Ov – oval, Ce-heart, P-princess, etc.e. Letters A, B, C, D – the purity of the stone (as we wrote in the previous paragraph). Values ​​such as from 0.3 to 0.99 are the mass of a diamond, but there are also more.

So if you decide to buy a diamond jewelry for yourself, then before buying a jewelry, take a good look at the diamond – how it shines, what facets it has, and consider the tag.

Remember that you need to buy diamond jewelry only in trusted and reliable stores. This is the Zolotoy Standard jewelry hypermarket.

Types of cut diamonds: an overview of the types of cut diamonds

In ancient times, the technology for processing nuggets was at a rather low level, the existing facets could only be well polished. Since the 14th century, people have learned to make one face, it was an analogue of a modern platform. Over time, scientists were able to calculate the proportions of an ideal diamond, and the craftsmen brought it to life.

Among the many processing steps, cutting is considered one of the most important.It allows the diamond to create a dazzling shine, where everyone can see the mesmerizing play of sunlight.

The classic exquisite shape of a diamond consists of such parts as: platform, crown, girdle, pavilion and culet. The value of a diamond is formed depending on several parameters, such as:

  • mass;
  • cut quality;
  • transparency;
  • color.

In the modern world, elegant jewelry is encrusted with stones of various shapes from traditional to fantasy.Original and unusual forms of cutting, such as: marquise, leaf or drop, are often chosen by extraordinary personalities with great imagination. The classic cut, in turn, is suitable for self-confident people with a stable life position.

Types of cut diamonds

Classic cut “Circle”

The classic and one of the most popular cut forms is a circle, or as it is also called “brilliant”. Traditionally, with this type of processing, diamonds have 57 perfect edges, which have a crystal shine and shimmer with iridescent colors.

Elegant engagement rings with an exquisite round diamond are a symbol of purity and, at the same time, the same depth of feeling.

Oval Cut Diamond

The popular Oval cut is used for larger stones. The oval cut is analogous to the classic shape and can also have 57 or more facets. They refract light rays in a special way, which allows the stones to shine brightly, while delighting the eyes of others.

The shape of diamonds of such an original cut makes the features of its owner more refined, be it hands, neck or face.

Pear cut diamond

This type of cut diamond is an excellent combination of two exquisite shapes – classic and marquise. On the one hand, it has a soft rounded end, and on the other, it is sharp and tapered. With this shape, it looks more like a flattened crystal clear drop.

Due to the concentration of light at the sharp end, the diamond has a special brightness and incredible play of highlights. This cut is most often used in elegant earrings, delicate pendants or luxury rings.

Emerald cut diamond

This type of cut is used when cutting large diamonds of exceptional clarity. The shape has 8 perfect edges and soft corners, so all the purity of the nugget and the bright shine of the flashes of sunlight are clearly visible on it.

A diamond of this shape is used most often in rings, which embodies the purity, openness and severity of its owner, as a rule, these are successful people.

Heart-cut diamond

Cutting a diamond of this shape requires a special skill and skill from the master, because such an original shape should have soft symmetrical halves without losing its fascinating iridescent shine.

Most often, this romantic form is used to inlay jewelry that symbolizes deep feelings. They look great in luxurious pendants, engagement rings or exquisite earrings.

Princess cut diamond

Luxurious cut of the regular pyramidal shape, which is second only to the classic in popularity. It can be square or rectangular with sharp, clear corners. With the concentration of light at the top of the pyramid, a bright, deep glow will enchant everyone around you.

They look best in elegant rings with a set of stones, and their beautiful shimmer looks dazzling in pendants, earrings or bracelets.

GIA certified diamonds

Each diamond from 0.40 carats is accompanied by a GIA (Gemological Institute of America) certificate with a personal code engraved on the girdle of the diamond, which can be checked on the official website www.gia.edu

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Shapes of a diamond cut

This page lists the most popular commercial diamond cuts.We do not include baguette, trillian, trapezium, rose, and other rare and non-popular shapes in this list.

Diamond

The term “diamond” today is so closely associated with diamond as a mineral that people often speak of “diamond” when referring to the mineral. But this term, strictly speaking, is applicable exclusively to a round cut, which has at least 32 facets and an area on the crown and at least 24 facets and a culet on the pavilion. Until the early 20th century, brilliant cut shapes developed empirically as craftsmen sought to achieve the optimum sparkle effect.It was only since 1910 that theoretical calculations began to be applied, taking into account the optical-physical properties of diamonds – such as light refraction, dispersion and hardness – to achieve the greatest sparkle through the appropriate proportions and symmetry ratios. The pioneer of brilliant cutting was a scientist of Russian origin – Marcel Tolkovsky, who in 1919 was the first to calculate the almost ideal parameters of a round brilliant cut. Today, the Tolkowski diamond is considered the “standard” cut in America and is the basis for evaluating a cut.Of all the different cuts of , is the classic cut . Round stones account for 75% of all diamond sales in the world. You can find out more about the round-cut diamond here.


Princess cut

Princess is the most popular cut after the round brilliant. The sparkle that meets the highest demands and the unique shape of the “princess” make her a favorite for diamond-cut wedding rings.”Princess” is traditionally square in shape and with sharp corners. When choosing the color of a “princess” diamond, it is worth considering that the shade corresponding to color groups from J (7) and below is concentrated in the corners of the diamond. In addition, “princesses” are often not strict squares, depending on the ratio of length to width, the stone can be either a square or a rectangle. When choosing a frame for a “princess”, you should pay special attention to protecting the delicate sharp corners of this cut.


Emerald Cut

The emerald cut features stepped facets that give the diamond its unique optical properties.Due to the large open facets, an emerald cut diamond is extremely demanding on clarity, since even minor defects, usually hidden in a large number of diamond facets, are clearly visible when cut emerald. Therefore, when choosing a stone of a similar cut, they usually adhere to a purity not lower than VS2 (6). Unlike the “princess”, the emerald cut is only rectangular, if you need a square stone, then you should pay attention to the Asher cut.


Asher cut

Asher cut is a combination of the Radiant cut and the emerald cut.The main difference between the “Asher” is its square shape. This type of cut was invented by the Asher brothers from Antwerp in 1902. The popularity of this cut peaked in the 1930s, but even now it is gradually returning to fashion. Due to its large open facets, Asher is demanding on cleanliness, since even minor defects, usually hidden in a large number of diamond facets, are clearly visible when Asher is cut. Therefore, when choosing a stone of a similar cut, they usually adhere to a purity not lower than VS2 (6).When choosing the color of a diamond of the “Usher” shape, it is worth considering that the shade corresponding to color groups from J (7) and below is concentrated in the corners of the diamond.


The Marquis cut

The Marquis cut allows you to visually increase the weight of the diamond, as the oblong shape creates the illusion of a larger stone. Looks good surrounded by teardrop-shaped and round diamonds; in a ring it makes the fingers optically longer and thinner. The first “Marquis” was made by order of Louis XIV, and the smile of his favorite, the Marquise de Pompadour, served as a model.Cut “Marquis” comes in various proportions, which are shown in the picture.


Oval cut

The oval cut appeared relatively recently, only in the early 1960s. The oval shape has excellent light dispersion and brilliance characteristics that are close to those of a round diamond. Oval diamonds are ideal for highlighting long, thin fingers.


Radiant cut

Radiant is a combination of the Princess cut and the emerald cut.The 70-sided square or rectangular radiant combines the play of the princess with the solidity of the stepped cut. A distinctive feature of the cut of the form “Radiant” is the beveled corners. Thanks to them, it is versatile and easy to fasten, and is also very popular with men.


Pear cut

Pear – combines the merits of the Marquis cut and the oval cut. Another name for this type of cut is “Drop”. Teardrop-shaped diamonds are very popular in modern jewelry art, most often they are set in earrings and pendants.Among the largest diamonds in the world, there are quite a few pear-shaped stones. The elongated “Pear” is able to visually lengthen the fingers.


Heart cut

The heart is an unconditional symbol of love, and it would be strange if it did not find application in the most romantic stone – a diamond. The Heart cut is essentially a teardrop cut with a notch in the middle. When choosing a color for a diamond of the “Heart” shape, it is worth considering that the shade corresponding to color groups from J (7) and below is concentrated in the corners of the diamond.And also when buying, it is worth paying special attention to the symmetry of the facets of the “Heart”, since this cut, like no other, depends on the skill of the cutter.


Cushion cut

The Cushion cut has been popular for over a century. The cut is characterized by rounded corners and wide edges. Thanks to its wide facets, the cushion is also called a candle diamond – namely, in the light of candles, its sparkle acquires maximum strength. Because of the large open facets, the cushion is extremely demanding on cleanliness, since even minor defects, usually hidden in a large number of diamond facets, are clearly visible when the “Cushion” shape is cut.Therefore, when choosing a stone of a similar cut, they usually adhere to a purity not lower than VS2 (6).


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Rare fancy cut diamonds

This page presents rare fancy forms of diamonds, as well as cuts that have appeared recently.

Rare cut diamonds

Royal cut – designed by the New York firm King Diamond Cutters.This cut is characterized by the presence of twelve facets of the platform instead of eight, as in a traditional diamond, so the number of other facets is automatically increased. There are 86 of them with this cut.


Magma . Designed also by a New York firm, it has 102 facets. In this cut, the traditional main facets of a diamond-shaped or kite-shaped crown split in the direction of the girdle to form two equal triangular facets. In addition, the wedges are divided into three smaller edges.Both of the cuts described above retain the traditional round shape of the diamond. The innovation is that the usual eightfold symmetry is replaced by twelvefold in the Royal cut and tenfold in the Magma cut.


High Light . This type of cut was developed by the Belgian cutter M. Westreich. This is a standard diamond with sixteen additional facets, eight of which are the facets of the crown, and the rest are facets of the pavilion, so there are not two, but three wedges between the main facets.There are 74 facets in this type of cut.


“Princess 144” . Although the Princess 144 cut had three predecessors (Magma, Highlight and Royal), when it hit the market in the early 1960s. it was a new fancy brilliant cut shape with eightfold symmetry. Additional facets in this cut are not formed by simple separation, but are cut under the wedges and are, in fact, wedges, in contrast to the triangular pavilion faces located between the main faces.The elongated facets, pointed towards the culet, form small diamond-shaped facets in this new cut, creating a good contrast and liveliness, which are especially noticeable when the stone moves. The Princess 144 cut should not be confused with the square or rectangular princess cut, which can be found quite often these days.


“Barion” . The Barion cut, invented by Basile Watermeier of Johannesburg, was introduced and patented in 1971.It is a mixed cut with an emerald cut crown and a modified brilliant cut pavilion. The shape of the cut is from an eight-sided square to a rectangle, but other varieties can also be found. The stone has 62 facets (25 on the crown, 29 on the pavilion and 8 on the polished girdle). The crown has three belts of stepped facets (like an emerald cut). Below the girdle are four large crescent-shaped facets that run parallel to the girdle and are inclined approximately 60® with respect to the girdle plane.Of the eight main faces of the pavilion, four run from the middle of the lunar faces to the culet. When viewed through the platform, these four facets look like a cross in the pavilion, which is a characteristic feature of the Barion cut.


Troidia . The Troidia cut originated in France and was patented in 1970 by the diamond cutter Sirakian. The name of this type of cut comes from the word “three” (a team of three horses) and the first syllable of the word “diamond”. The Troidia cut is a triangular cut with three curved sides.The total number of facets is 47:27 + platform on the crown and 18 + culet on the pavilion. From 30 to 60 facets are applied to the girdle, depending on the size of the stone. Although the pavilion of this stone is very shallow, the play of the stone can be described as “alive”. For the production of the “Troidia” cut, only triangular flat crystals (the so-called “mekla”) are used, which, due to the distorted crystal structure and frequent twinning, are difficult to cut. Rational use of the natural crystal habit results in relatively little weight loss, which favorably affects the price of stones cut in this way.

New types of cut diamonds

A series of new fancy cuts were introduced in August 1988 by Nicholas Oppenheimer, then the first Chairman of the Board of Directors of the De Beers Central Sales Organization (CSO) at the 24th World Diamond Congress in Singapore. These cuts were designed and executed by Gabriel S. Tolkowski in 1986-1987.

The new cuts are in addition to the previously known cuts. They were specially designed for rough diamonds, which hitherto, due to their high cost price, could hardly be cut into round shapes or standard fancy cuts.Tolkowski developed these new types of cuts to achieve the greatest intensity in brilliance, color and profitability. The new cuts are largely based on unusual angles. They are best suited for stones over a quarter carat.

“Fire Rose” . This cut has 61 facets and can be transformed into a marquis, pear or heart shape. The advantages of these cuts are the higher yield and better brilliance and play of the stone, even with intensely colored stones.


“Sunflower” . “Sunflower” can be made in well-known stepped shapes – for example, square, emerald, baguette or trapezoid. This cut is also suitable for marquise or diamonds cut in the shape of a pear or heart. As a rule, it has 63 edges.


“Dahlia” . This cut is oval with twelve sides and 63 facets. The advantage of this cut is the rational use of rough diamonds; it looks good on stones with an intense color.


Calendula (marigold) . It is an octagonal cut that is commonly used to cut flat diamonds. It has 73 facets (32 on the crown, 8 on the girdle and 32 on the pavilion + platform). The main advantage of this cut, in comparison with traditional cut, is a higher yield. Intense colors, especially browns and golden yellow tones, give these cut stones a special charm.


Zinnia . This cut is made only in the form of a round shape with an increased number of facets around the culet.This gives the stone a bright shine and sparkle in motion.


“Gabriel” . In 1996, the world renowned diamond cutter Gabi S. Tolkowski created the Gabriel cut, a new cut for diamonds cut in the form of brilliants, marquises, pears, hearts and ovals. This new cut develops the classic cut shapes. An extra high degree of dispersion is achieved thanks to the additional belt of bezels on the crown (which actually forms a double crown) and the belt of bezels around the culet.In addition, in fancy cut diamonds, the “fly” effect practically disappears, and, purely optically, the stone seems larger. In addition to pear-shaped diamonds with 99 facets, the rest of the cuts have 105 facets. The square and emerald cuts have 81 facets.

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90,000 Shapes of cut diamonds

Information Satya6 What forms of cut diamonds are there?

Most people think of a round diamond when it comes to diamonds and they often don’t think that there are many other forms of diamond cuts.

In nature, rough diamonds have different shapes and undesirable inclusions, and based on these factors, we determine which cut to give one or another diamond. The main criteria by which we are guided is to obtain the maximum carat weight and the minimum inclusions (good clarity) with a quality cut and the correct proportions of the diamond.
Diamonds of any shape other than round are called fancy-cut diamonds. The most common are: princess, marquis, heart, pear, emerald, oval, triangle, pillow and radiant, cushion (cushion).Each of these shapes has its own specific characteristics and proportions.

Round and fancy cut diamonds

Round brilliant

Round diamonds are the most popular, almost 75% of all diamonds worldwide.
Round diamonds have 58 facets and are optimally shaped (57 facets and a spike, which is considered to be 58 facets) to reflect light rays as much as possible.
When a round diamond is obtained in ideal proportions (Tolkovsky’s formula), its brilliance resembles the play of fire.

The Princess Diamond

The Princess Cut is the most popular fancy diamond cut. Recently, this cut has been popular in sequential diamond rings. The Princess shape is a square diamond.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.00 – 1.10 (= length / width).

The Marquise Diamond

The cut of the Marquise diamond is made from an elongated diamond and the diamond produces the illusion of being larger than its actual weight due to its length.
According to legend, the marquise got its name when Louis the-14 fell in love with “marquise de pompadours” and asked for a diamond in the shape of her mouth. The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.75 – 2.25 (= length / width).

Heart shaped diamond

Heart shaped diamond is the best way to express your love and romance.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 0.90 – 1.02 (= length / width).

A pear-shaped or drop-shaped diamond

A pear-shaped diamond with a pointed edge on one side and a rounded edge on the other (some combination of oval and marquise), which gives the appearance of a raindrop.The most common use of pear shaped diamonds is jewelry in the form of pendants and earrings.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.50 – 1.75 (= length / width).

Diamond Emerald or Emerald

Emerald is a rectangular diamond with truncated corners. It is not advisable to compromise the clarity of a diamond with this shape because inclusions are more visible with this cut.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.40 – 1.70 (= length / width).

Oval Cut – Brilliant Oval

Oval cut diamonds are elliptical. An oval shaped diamond ring is suitable for women with short fingers, as it can extend the shape and give the illusion of long fingers.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.30 – 1.70 (= length / width).

Diamond, Triangle Cut

Diamond in the standard triangle shape or with rounded edges, whichever the manufacturer prefers.
The form was first developed in Amsterdam.
The recommended ratio of this shape is that the triangle is equilateral.

Antique diamond cut Asher

Asher – antique cut (more than 100 years old), in this type of cut diamond inclusions are more visible.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 1.10 – 1.20 (= length / width). Usher Diamonds on the website

Radiant cut diamond

A rectangular diamond with truncated corners and has 70 facets that enhance the diamond’s light reflections.
The recommended ratio for this shape is 0.90 – 1.10 (= length / width). Radiant diamonds catalog on our website.

Cushion or Cushion cut

One of the most common fancy cuts. According to our catalog, you can pick up cushion diamonds from 0.3 to 5 carats and above a wide variety of characteristics

types and methods of cutting a diamond

Hello, friends! The legendary phrase from the movie “Cruel Romance” “An expensive diamond is expensive and requires cutting” – the true truth.And even if in the cinema it had a metaphorical meaning, today we will prove how important the cutting process is in creating the most magnificent examples of diamond production. This is the final stage of creating and processing the stone, on which it depends how it will play, reveal all its magnificence and inner glow.

Just imagine: a black nondescript piece of carbon turns into a delightful faceted diamond during processing. One can only guess how much labor is behind this, what efforts the master makes.The cut of a diamond is designed to hone the mineral so that its inner fire and magic become visible, bewitched and give the owner all its appeal. At the same time, it is important not to use up the initial material more than necessary, to keep its mass to the maximum.

First experiments in cutting

Taking into account the highest density of the stone and its manual processing, it can be assumed that a skilled cutter in modern jewelry is valued almost more than diamonds themselves.

When did humanity realize that a cut diamond looks much more interesting and elegant than its rough counterpart? Historians note the first attempts to process stone back in the Middle Ages. On an uneven gem, the planes were created by grinding, capable of refracting light rays. At first, the facets (their other scientific name is facets) were applied chaotically, but over time they acquired a certain order.

One of the first known cuts – Indian, consisted in creating an octagon from a wild stone.At the same time, the mineral had a pointed top, and the natural form itself practically did not change.

With the advent of more advanced equipment, experiments in diamond processing became even more successful, various types and forms appeared.

Interesting to know! Diamond is not only the modern name for a gemstone, but also the most popular type of diamond cut. Its appearance is associated with the name of Marcel Tolkowski, who was the first in 1919 to calculate the order of refraction of rays in a diamond and proposed using a round shape and brilliant cut to better reveal the aesthetics and inner strength of the stone.

This method helps the light to penetrate into the gem through the upper area, refract there in the lower edges and, turning into a rainbow, go out. To the human eye, it looks like a sparkle and glow that mesmerizes instantly. It is for the enchanting play of light that we love these precious stones.

How diamonds are cut

When you see the final product, you hardly think about how it was made and how much work it cost its creators.Also with a diamond. Until you understand the intricacies of the process, you will not begin to appreciate your jewelry as it should.

We decided to consecrate you to the holy of holies and tell how and with what the very facets are made that turn an uncut stone into a magical and desirable diamond.

  • The crystal is split. It happens that X-ray radiation reveals defects inside the mineral, and then it is necessary to remove them.
  • On a special machine, the diamond is peeled off, giving it corners and edges.
  • The actual grinding takes place on an iron polishing wheel. Diamond powder is preliminarily poured onto it, it is he who helps to hone the pebble to an almost perfect state. It turns out that the diamond “processes itself”.
  • Polishing. The final stage of polishing the diamond.

When the process is already established and the master has adapted and gained a lot of experience, the production of high-quality, without defects, stones goes like clockwork. If experience is not enough, mistakes are possible due to which diamonds are rejected for not meeting quality standards.

For example, an oversized dome will result in incorrect light reflection. It will come out not through the top, but through the bottom of the product. A disproportionately high height also leads to marriage.

If too large edges are applied to a large specimen, it will not play and refract rays, which will make it look dull and not a diamond at all.

Well, when there are not enough facets on a small pebble, it will look more like a milky gem, and not like a legendary and chic diamond.In a word, the slightest mistake – and instead of a counter in a fashionable jewelry boutique, the stone ends up in a box with the inscription “marriage”, and the master himself, with a high probability, will be left without work.

Before cutting, it is important to take into account the natural shape of the stone, with all its defects. To minimize the loss of precious source material, it is better to first draw up a model of the finished product on a computer.

Well, we have considered the methods of processing, it’s time to admire the types of cuts.At the same time, apply today’s knowledge in practice. If you have a diamond treasure at home, open it up and take a look. No? No problem. This is a great occasion to visit a jeweler with your loved one and surprise him with your knowledge of jewelry!

Types of cut diamonds

  1. Round . The same legendary one that Tolkowski invented, is still the most popular and versatile to this day. However, he also has a minus: a lot of material goes into consumption, or rather, into waste.After all, in order to achieve an ideal round shape, a natural diamond is sharpened and polished for a long time, removing “shavings” from it.
  2. Princess . You can recognize this type of cut by its square shape with sharp corners. It does not have the same finesse as the previous one, but the loss of mass during its grinding is minimal. In the jewelry world, this type is valued quite highly, but when buying it is important to pay attention to the corners, they must be well fixed and free from defects, otherwise the pebble may fall out of the frame and get lost.
  3. Pear . This cut is so delicate that it will accentuate the fragility of its young mistresses, and will give freshness and attractiveness to mature ladies. This look looks especially good in earrings and pendants, and enclosed in a ring it will visually lengthen the fingers.
  4. Marquise . Few people know, but according to legend, this species was invented by King Louis 14th for his Marquise de Pompadour. Rather, the diamond was processed according to his order. He wanted the stone to repeat the smile of sweetheart without fail and not lose.The elongated shape of the “boat” turned out to be so refined that it looks divine on any woman’s hand, giving it aristocracy, and wash off the owner of the jewelry – charm.
  5. Oval . Already by the name it is clear what shape this diamond is. It fits perfectly not only into rings, but also pendants and earrings. If you are lucky enough to own a whole set with oval diamonds, you will become twice as charming, because oval earrings will make your face more expressive, and the pendant will subtly create an accent on a beautiful neckline.
  6. Heart . A fairly young type of cut, adored by romantics and connoisseurs of unusual exclusive diamonds. Usually these stones are the same both in length and width, and the technology of their processing is very multi-stage and complex. Therefore, “heart” diamonds are more expensive than others, but this beauty is priceless in its magnificence.
  7. Emerald . Octagonal cut of a rectangular diamond. It is believed that the light refracted with this cut is not so varied, but the flares and glare are brighter.This species is not as common as the rest, but undoubtedly deserves attention and admiration.

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