How to Sew a T-shirt Knit Neckband the Fail-Proof Way
Are you struggling to sew a knit neckband on your t-shirt and tops? Perhaps it’s gaping, won’t lie flat or it pulls the fabric of the neckline and creating those annoying draglines and gathers.
I can assure you that you are not alone in this struggle, because sewing neckbands on knit tops is deceptively simple, so don’t feel bad if you nail this sewing technique straight away.
The good news is that there are easy fixes for this issue, you just need to understand and follow some important principles and then use the right techniques. So in this sewing tutorial, I will share all the tips and techniques I’ve found super helpful in my own sewing, and hopefully, these can help you too!
6 important things to know before sewing a neckband
- The more stretch the rib knit has, the shorter the neckband piece should be. A good rule of thumb for a regular crew neck t-shirt opening is to make the neckband piece around 70-75% of the neckline circumference.
- For a super stretchy rib knit you might have to go below 70%, but remember that if the rib knit is stretched out too much it will create gathers around the neckline when attached, so it’s always a balancing act to figure out the sweet spot.
- A wider neckband is less likely to lie flat compared to a narrow. If you want to use wide neckband, cut a strip and fold it in the desired width and stretch it around the neckline to get an idea if it will work.
- A good folded width for a classic t-shirt neckband is around 2.5 cm (1″) + seam allowances. Remember though that the finished width will likely be a little narrower since the fabric is being stretched out when attached. The more you stretch the fabric, the narrower it gets.
- For a neckband on a deep neckline, make it narrow, since it won’t lie flat otherwise.
- If using self-fabric (jersey) instead of rib knit, the neckband piece should both be longer and more narrow than a pattern piece for rib knit, as jersey has less stretch and won’t lie as flat when stretched out. Opt for around 80% length and around 2 cm (3/4″) folded width or even slightly less
What all this means is that even if your pattern has a neckband pattern piece included, you might still need to modify it depending on the type of fabric you are planning to use for the neckband.
Neck band sewing with self-fabric (notice that it’s quite narrow)Neckband sewing with rib knit. This band can be a bit wider and will still lie flat. But don’t make it too wide!
Before you attach the neckband
- The neckband needs to be stretched out evenly, otherwise, you might end up with different widths and/or gathers along the neckline.
- To avoid a bulky intersection of seams at the shoulder, move the neckband seam a couple of centimetres (less than an inch) towards the back.
How to notch a neckband
So let’s put all this information into practice. To make sure the neckband is evenly distributed I recommend that you use notches. So in this example, the distance between the shoulder seam and the mid-back on the neckline is 10 cm.
This means that the corresponding distance on the neckband should be 7.5 cm if we are using a neckband that is 75% of the neckline circumference.
And then we have the issue of moving the neckband away from the shoulder to minimise bulk. If you want to account for this, you need to move the shoulder notch away from the seam line on the neckband, like this:
Moving the shoulder notch away from the seamline makes it a little trickier, but you don’t have to be super precise with the measurements, the most important thing is that you follow the principles somewhat and the rest will sort itself out.
Is all this info giving you a headache?
I know, it is a lot! But the good news is that if you just follow the guidelines somewhat loosely it will still make a big difference. And after you have sewn several neckbands, you’ll eventually develop a sixth sense on how to gauge all this, so with time, it will become more intuitive and less mathematical.
But if you are struggling currently, I highly suggest that you start with this methodical approach before going rogue.
Step-by-step tutorial for sewing a neckband to a t-shirt
1. Cut the ribbing
Preferably use a ruler and a rotary cutter to cut the ribbing because it creates the most even ribbing piece. But of course, a paper pattern piece and a pair of scissors will work too,
just make sure the scissors are sharp!
2. Mark notches on the neckband
First, fold the ribbing. You can carefully press the fold with an iron on low heat to make the fold crisp. Then, mark notches that correspond to mid-back, shoulder seams, and mid-front using the suggestions above. Either clip the fabric or use a pen for the notches.
3. Close the neckband
Use either a 3-thread serger stitch, a narrow zigzag stitch or a sewing machine stretch seam. If you are using a narrow zigzag, press the seam apart to make it flat. To create a flat fold when using an overlock seam, clip the seam allowance carefully (just a tiny notch) at the fold and press in opposite directions.
4. Match the notches
Mark the corresponding notches on the neckline of your garment and align them with the notches on your neckband. Tip: You can use needles or very loose hand basting to keep the neckband in place when sewing.
5. Attach the neckband
Use either a serger or a sewing machine stretch seam to attach the ribbing. Stretch the neckband while sewing, making sure the notches align. Don’t stretch the neckline, just the neckband.
6. Press the band flat
After sewing, it’s a good idea to press the neckband on a low setting to make sure the ribbing lies flat and to remove any creases. Just test the fabric first to see that it can tolerate an iron.
7. Stitch down the seam allowance
To create a flatter and more professional-looking finish, you can topstitch the seam allowance. Use a twin-needle, zigzag stitch, or a coverstitch machine for this. I recommend starting on the back piece, a few centimetres from the shoulder seam.
This will make the finishing of the seam less conspicuous and it also makes sewing easier since you don’t’ have to start over the bulky shoulder seam area.
A great tip that I got from my friend and professional pattern maker Pattern by Malena is to topstitch the neckband in the opposite direction from how you attached the neckband. So if you sewed the neckband in a counter-clockwise direction, do the topstitching in a clockwise direction, as this will prevent draglines.
BTW, check out Pattern by Malena’s Hazelhen Tee pattern (English version is coming). She understands this stuff from a professional perspective, so her patterns include two neckband options, one for rib knit (shorter and slightly wider) and one for jersey (longer and slightly narrower).
To sum it up
I hope I didn’t overwhelm you with all this info, but I think it’s important to understand the principles behind how sewing works. So if you are struggling with sewing neckbands on knit tops, now you hopefully understand what causes those issues and how to fix them!
And rest assured that with practice this becomes easier and easier, and all the info in this post will become intuitive and you’ll be able to gauge and go by feel rather than bother yourself with too many numbers.
If you want the inside of your neckband to look neat and professional, you can also check out my tutorial for covering the seam with a decorative band, just like many higher-end RTW brand does.
Creative Chicks: T-Shirt Series: Neckband #1 Ribbing
We’ll ultimately be showing 3 different methods to finish your neck opening. This first one is probably the most common and what you normally think of when talking tees: Ribbing made from either the same fabric as the shirt itself or a contrast piece.
Tiffany and I think that the one thing on a t-shirt that will make or break your project is the neckband. The biggest beef we have about neckbands is making sure they lie flat against your body when you are wearing the shirt. Nothing screams “homemade” (in a bad way) more than a neckband that looks like it is standing straight up or sticking out.
Here is an example of what I am talking about:
This is NOT what you want your neckband to do.
This shows the original difference in lengths on the neckband piece and the neck opening
for what I used in the above picture. It is a difference of about 1 1/2 inches.
Below is what it looks like once I took the neckband off, and took in another inch on the neckband seam and then re-attached it.
So MUCH better— see how it lies flat against my body
This is what you are aiming for.
Once you have your neckband looking nice you can add the topstitching.
On this shirt I used size 2,5 double needle.
So, how do we get there.
Let’s give you a general rule about ribbing neckbands.
The stretchier the fabric used, the greater the difference
between the neck opening and the attached band.
Using actual ribbing fabric you would probably make the neckband anywhere from 2-1/2 to 3 inches smaller than the neck opening.
For moderate stretch knits maybe only 1-1/2 to 2 inches.
Honestly, I start with around 1-1/2 inches smaller in diameter than the neck opening and then adjust from there.
- For the neckband on this turquoise shirt I cut a 1-1/2″ wide strip.
Seam it into a continuous circle the size needed for the neckband (approx. 2-1/2 inches smaller than neck opening for this shirt).
Then fold it in half, matching raw edges, and attach it w/ a 3/8″ seam. Pin as much or as little as you need. And ONLY stretch the band as much as you need to get it to the size of the neck opening. Do NOT stretch the shirt itself if you can help it.
That leaves you with about 1/2″ wide ribbing neckband, which is a really nice finished size for the neckband.
I just need to say that I went browsing at the Land’s End outlet a week or so ago to check out their detailing on some items. When it comes to topstitching just about anything goes.
Topstitch using either the 2,5 or 4,0 twin needle.
Topstitch the neckband down on the shirt like the picture above.
Straddle the seam with your twin needle so that one line of stitching is on the shirt and one line on the neckband.
Use only a single topstitch. I would only use this if the neck opening of your shirt isn’t one where you need to stretch it open to get it over your head.
You can also leave it and do nothing.
Look at some t-shirts next time you’re in the store and you can see what little details they are using on the neck openings. Mostly it is some variation with a twin needle.
Then when your neckband is finished you can try some embellishments if you want.
I made mine with rows of ruffles down the front.
The picture above on the left shows how the topstitching looks with the ruffles sewn in with the neckband and not just added and topstitched free on the front of the shirt like the turquoise option on the right. I’m not sure if I have a preference for one option over the other. It does seem a little trickier to work with the neckband when you add the ruffles into that neck seam. I think it just depends on what you prefer.
Although I am pretty sure I pre-washed this fabric (a thrifted knit sheet), here is what the shirt ruffles on the turquoise version look like post wash/dry for the first time.
I might have placed them closer together had I known this is what would’ve happened.
Oh well, it still works and I’m certainly not removing them and reattaching them.
Cut 1-1/2″ wide strips of fabric (I don’t think it particularly matters which way the stretch goes on the decorative strips).
Fold over each end about 1/4 inch (unless you are incorporating the neck end into the neckband itself and then just do it on one end) and run a gather stitch.
- We did 5 strips and varied the lengths.
- Gather as much or as little as you want and then after pinning them in place sew them down right over top of the gather stitch.
Here is another great tutorial for embellishing the front of your t-shirt.
Doing it exactly like the tutorial does require that your fabric look exactly the same on both sides.
On this turquoise piece there was a definite front and back so we had to cut smaller pieces to gather then overlap them to get the same type look.
We also had to check the placement of some of the ruffles before sewing it down. Once or twice the ruffle ended at a weird spot and we moved it around some. She was so funny the day she wore this shirt to school for the first time. A couple of the HS girls recognized this look from Pinterest and commented it to her. They were impressed we had made it. That made her happy!
Neckbands made by binding the edge.
Buy Jersey Ribbing Fabric Online
Across the Fabrics Galorewebsite, we have a wide range of different fabrics available – including ribbed jersey and ribbing fabric. These materials are perfect to use if you are looking to produce a professional finish for your jersey and sweatshirt projects. But, what is the difference between ribbed jersey and ribbing fabric?
The differences between ribbed jersey and ribbing fabric
There are a number of differences between these two fabrics, with the first being, ribbed jersey is not a ribbing fabric.Ribbing fabric is very soft and lightweight, being considerably stretchier compared to ribbed jersey.
On the other hand, ribbed jersey is considerably thicker and is not as stretchy, but the alternating knit-and-purl technique used to produce it means it is the perfect fabric to create a warm, winter garment. Ribbed material is typically made of cotton fibres, rayon fibres or a blend, and feels thicker due to its texture. You can make drapey flattering clothes with this, such as cardigans, sweaters, camisoles and more – as well as bands on turtlenecks.
How to choose your jersey ribbing fabric
When purchasing jersey ribbing fabric, there are a number of different styles to choose from – which are highlighted in the product descriptions. For example, 1×1 ribbing fabric is made by alternating single lines of knit and purl stitches. Whereas, 2×2 fabric is perfect if you need additional stretch in your garment, which is achieved by alternating 2 knit and 2 purl stitches.
What ribbing fabrics you choose is completely dependent on the dressmaking project you are looking to complete. If you are looking to design something lightweight, such as a t-shirt, 1×1 fabric is most likely the better choice. On the other hand, if you are looking to design a sweatshirt, or outerwear in general, 2×2 ribbing would work well. You can create a form-fitting garment, which does not constrain movement but still keeps you warm.
Fabrics Galore ribbing fabrics
Fabrics Galore Jersey Ribbing Fabric is a cotton elastane tubular knit which can be folded and is primarily used for sweatshirt collars and cuffs. It is useful as you don’t need to sew a seam into the neckband of your T-shirt or sweatshirt. The 1×1 ribbing we stock is a high- quality fine ribbing ideally used in sweatshirting. You can find our ribbing fabric on our dedicated Dressmaking menu whereas our ribbed jersey fabrics belong to our jersey collection.
The Fabrics Galore ribbing fabrics are not only of a premium quality but also meet theOeko-tex standard for textile fabric products – you can read more about this safety standard on our dedicated blog.
Do you need assistance?
Here atFabrics Galore, we completely understand how difficult it can be when trying to make the right decision on your fabric – which is why we are here to help. All of our fabrics, including jersey ribbing fabric, are suitable for a variety of dressmaking projects, including winter coats and outerwear to help keep you warm during the colder months. If you require any more information regarding our gorgeous fabrics, you are more than welcome tocontact our team.
Basic T-shirt – MADE EVERYDAY
Welcome to Celebrate the BOY! with two weeks of boy-ish fun here at MADE and on Made by Rae.
A few weeks ago I was looking for short-sleeved t-shirts for Owen and they were nowhere to be found. Only long-sleeved Tees in the store. I was frustrated.
Then felt like an idiot.
And realized…why don’t I just make them??
Can you believe that in all my years of sewing, I’d never made a basic tee?!
In the first year of Celebrate the BOY, I shared the 90 Minute Shirt and couldn’t get enough of the envelope sleeve. But this, my friends, is even FASTER!
It’s my new go-to.
And it only takes 5 steps.
Yes! Only FIVE sewing steps and you’ve got a really fun Tee for all ages (and genders)
For a full video tutorial, click here, or just hit the play button below!
Or for step-by-step photo instructions, continue reading below….
Of course when it comes to making a shirt, there are tons of options.
You can use the existing hem line of an old T-shirt, or create your own. Add a pocket, stencil an image, color block the pieces.
With just a little ribbing around the neck it’s simple.
And if you’ve never sewn with ribbing, have no fear! We’ll walk through the basic steps for sewing ribbing on a standard sewing machine. You do not need to have a serger to sew with knits.
Let’s get started.
Begin by printing my 1-size pattern HERE. (Or create your own pattern using a current T-shirt your child owns as your guide, or size down my pattern using a current Tee as your guide and creating similar lines.) You will be prompted when you click the above link to open a 50KB file in Acrobat, Preview, or other software on your computer.
PRINTING and PIECING:
• this pattern is a size 4-5 Toddler
• the pattern is 3 page PDF doc. It prints to standard US paper size, 8.5 x 11 inches. Print it using standard settings (if you’re having problems, you can always play with your print settings but I found that standard US Letter worked best). The pages do NOT print to the edge, so you don’t have to worry about borderless printing, etc.
• If you live in another country outside the USA, print to your standard paper size and measure against the sizing ruler to see if you’re printed properly.
• There are 2 size references on the pattern to judge whether you’ve printed properly. Use a ruler to measure against the printing ruler and the one square inch on the pattern. If they don’t match up perfectly, play with your settings and print again.
• Print the first 2 pages TWO times (so you have a front and back for the T-shirt). And print the third page only once (the sleeve page).
NOTE: There is a dotted line near the armhole line, which is for a MUSCLE TEE version! Get the detailed tutorial HERE.
You should end up with pages like this:
Now let’s piece them together.
• There are circle markers on the first two pages showing which direction to line up the pages. These are not meant to overlay each other, or to match up with the pattern lines. They’re really just directional markers.
• Where you do want to line up the first two pages is on the pattern lines themselves. So…
• Cut along the top line of the pattern piece on page two and line it up with the bottom line of the pattern piece on page one and tape them together. Tape on the front and back of the pages, then cut out the entire pattern piece. Do this for both the Front and Back pattern pieces, then cut out the sleeve piece as well. Remember, do not cut on the dotted line…unless you plan to make a MUSCLE TEE.
When you’re done you should have 3 finished pattern pieces.
Now let’s talk about knit fabrics.
If you’ve never sewing with knits, check out my detailed Sewing with Knits post HERE.
You don’t need a serger or fancy sewing machine to sew with knits. Of course I’ve found that people who feel frustrated sewing with knits are often using a lower-end machine, which is fine. Don’t let that stop you! But just keep in mind that if you plan to sew more knits in the future….you may want to upgrade your machine a bit. NOTE: if you prefer sewing knits with a serger definitely use it for all the steps! Personally, I like to sew with my standard machine first and then finishing off my seams with a serger because it allows more room for error (the serger cuts the fabric edge as you sew). So do what works for you!
When it comes to finding cool knits, fabric shops are often limited which is why most of us turn to an old Men’s T-shirt for fabric. Check thrift stores, retail store clearance racks (like Target and Old Navy), or raid your husband’s drawer (asking permission of course) for good T-shirt fabric options. When purchasing Tees from a Thrift-store always rub your fingers over the fabric to make sure it’s soft enough to wear. Avoid t-shirts that are stiff/cheap because the fabric will be itchy on your child, which means they’ll never wear the finished product.
You can also find some knit fabrics in online stores like fabric.com, hartsfabric.com, and spoonflower. I purchase most of my knits in-person at Michael Levine and the FIDM scholarship store in LA. Read more about that HERE.
For this tutorial we’re using a men’s XL t-shirt (with an existing hem) as our fabric. But we’ll show you how to create your own hem as well. Okay….
STEP 1 – Cut and prep the T-shirt pieces and Ribbing
• Using a men’s Large or XL T-shirt, cut the sleeves, side seams, and neckline from the shirt. Now you have two large pieces of fabric to work with.
• Fold the first fabric in half (lining up the stripes if you’re using striped/patterned fabric) and place the Front pattern piece on one fold. If you’re using the existing hem of the T-shirt for your new Tee, line up the bottom of the pattern piece at the bottom of the old T-shirt hem and cut out your pattern piece. Do the same thing for the Back pattern piece
• Then place the sleeve pattern on the old existing sleeves and cut two new sleeves on the Fold.
Now let’s cut the ribbing for our neckline.
RIBBING is just what you think: a knit fabric with long vertical ribs. These ribs allow the fabric to expand and contract which is why it’s often used for cuffs, collars, and form-fitting clothes, such as tank-tops…
The key to ribbing is to cut it slightly smaller than the space it occupies. This allows it to stretch when needed then retract back so it sits snuggly around your arm or neck. It’s typically sold by the yard (and just ¼ of a yard goes a long way). If you can’t find ribbing fabric you like in the store, search online stores…and remember that tank tops and other T-shirts with very small ribs make excellent ribbing! Look in your drawers or the clearance rack at retail stores for items to use.
Also, never throw away the old neck ribbing from a T-shirt you’ve dismembered. I have a bin where I save all old necklines and sleeves for future projects. To use an old neckline, cut away the old knit fabric, cut a slice into the ribbing, use a seam ripper to open the ends slightly (or all the way), and you have useable ribbing!
• Cut a strip of ribbing 11 to 11. 5 inches x 2 inches (or whatever width you’d like. 2 inches is nice for a 4 year old). Remember to cut perpendicular to the ribs.
I say 11-11.5 inches because each ribbing reacts slightly different to being stretched and sewn. Standard ribbing found at Joanns tends to stretch more so you may want to cut it 11 inches. Ribbed fabric from a t-shirt has tighter ribs (my favorite type of ribbing) so you may want to cut it 11.25 inches. Just experiment with lengths as you make these tees, till you find the one you prefer.
• Iron the ribbing in half, then open it up and fold it in half the other direction (with right sides of the fabric together….or with the folds pointed in. Pictured above) and sew the strip together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
You end up with a ribbed neck piece like this. Woohoo!
Combine that with the T-shirt fabric pieces and you’re ready to sew!
STEP 2 – Sew the shoulders.
This is a super short step.
• With right sides of the T-shirt Front and Back together, line them up at the shoulders, pin, and sew them together using a 3/8 inch seam allowance and a straight/normal stitch.
• Iron out your seams. Always iron out your seams–this is key to making your garments look more professional and less homemade.
STEP 3 – Sew Ribbing to the Neckline.
(refer to above photo)
• Lay the shirt open flat at the shoulders and place the folded neck ribbing over the neckline. As you can see it’s smaller than the space it occupies. This will make a comfy fitted neckline.
• With the raw edges of the ribbing pointed up, pin the ribbing to the raw edge of the neckline first at the center back of the t-shirt, then pin the other side of the ribbing to the center front of the neckline.
• Then stretch the ribbing with your hand so it fits around the rest of the neckline and little by little, pin the ribbing around the neckline so it’s evenly spaced. Be liberal with the pinning.
(refer to below photo)
• Sew the ribbing to the neckline using a 1/4 inch seam allowance and a ZIG ZAG stitch. A zigzag is important here because it allows the thread to stretch with the fabric as it goes over a child’s head.
• As you sew, use your hands to stretch the ribbing slightly so there are no gathers or folds in the fabrics. Don’t over-stretch it. Just stretch enough so it looks taut. It helps to hold the pins as you stretch.
• This step can be awkward with all those pins poking at you. So remove each pin after you sew past it.
• If you do notice any gathers in the fabric after you’ve sewn, simply remove a few stitches with a seam ripper, smooth it out, and re-sew that area.
• Iron the ribbing flat at the collar.
• For an added touch you may want to sew a top-stitch around the edge of the collar on the T-shirt fabric (I chose to leave mine plain; no top-stitching). Remember to do this with a zigzag as well or your stitching may break as you stretch it over a head.
And whatdya know? You made a T-shirt collar!
Looks pretty professional right?
STEP 4 – Sew sleeves to the armholes.
The photo below shows how the sleeves fit into the T-shirt puzzle. So….
• With right sides of the fabric together, pin the middle of the sleeve curve to the middle of the armhole. Continue pinning the sleeve down one side of the armhole to the end of the armhole. Do this for the other side of the armhole as well…and for the other sleeve too.
• Sew the sleeve to the armhole with a 3/8 inch seam allowance and iron out your seams.
Just one more step!
STEP 5 – Sew arm and side seams.
• With right sides of the T-shirt together, fold the Front of the shirt over the Back of the shirt and pin down the sleeves and sides. It’s easiest to pin first at the armpits, matching up the armhole seams. Then pin the rest of the sleeve and then the side seams.
• If you have a side-tag throw one into the side-seam about 2 inches from the bottom (read about my labels HERE)
• Starting at the end of the sleeve, sew down the sleeve, down to the armpit, and continue sewing down the side seam with a straight stitch (as show in dotted orange below).
One Basic Tee!
(and many more to come….)
SEWING YOUR OWN HEM
I found this awesome turtle shirt by American Apparel at the thrift store and knew Owen would love it. But in order to include the logo in the new shirt, I had to shift my pattern piece up a bit. If you’re in the same boat, or using original knit fabric, here’s how you sew your own hem on the T-shirt (and sleeves if needed).
• Cut the t-shirt apart as we did above.
• Fold the t-shirt fabric in half so the logo is centered on the fold.
• Place the pattern piece on the fold and use a ruler to draw a new hemline….adding an extra 1/2 inch to 1 inch of fabric (just depends how chunky you want your hem to be. I used 3/4 of an inch)
• Sew the shirt as outlined above.
• When you’re finished, iron the bottom edge of the shirt under 1/2 to 1 inch (whatever extra length you added to the pattern) and sew the hem in place with a straight stitch.
• Sew a parallel second line 1/8 inch over from the first line just for a cool look.
• Press the hem one more time with an iron to get a nice good fold.
NOTE: You may choose to sew your hem with a zigzag (which is great for the hem of leggings when you need to them to stretch over a foot). But with a loose-fitted T-shirt, a straight stitch is fine and mimics the look of a store-bought t-shirt hem.
If you look at the stitching on a store-bought professional Tee, it’s sewn with a coverstitch (found on some sergers or sewn with a special coverstitch machine). The way the machine stitches on the wrong side of the fabric allows the front stitching to stretch slightly. This is why it’s so wonderful to use the existing hem of a t-shirt for your new project. So if you’re worried about stretch (perhaps in a tight fitted Tee, use a zigzag stitch on your hem)
And that’s a Basic Tee wrap.
Enjoy your turtles and tees!
Now head over to Made-by-Rae to see the Sweet Saffron pants she made for Elliot!
And don’t forget to add your photos to the Celebrate the BOY Flickr group.
The Ribbed Pocket T-Shirt – Knickerbocker
The Ribbed Pocket T-Shirt – Knickerbocker
The Ribbed Pocket T-Shirt in stone. Made of 100% cotton. Drop needle knit construction. Ring-spun 20 singles combed cotton yarn. Mounted collar construction. Blind-stitched hems. Pre-shrunk.
Tag Size XS S M L XL XXL Chest 36.5 38.50 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 Sleeve 7.25 7.625 8 8.375 8.75 9.125 HPS Length 25.5 26.25 27 27.75 28.5 29.25
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DIY T-shirt Neck Baby Bib – Custom Neck Ribbing Double Pocket Reversible Model
For this DIY t-shirt neck baby bib I had these unique goals:
- Make my own custom t-shirt neck ribbing from t-shirt scraps.
- Make the bib completely reversible.
- Have a pocket on each side of the bib.
I also intended to:
- Use PUL (polyurethane laminate) between the layers as a drip guard.
- Use the simple edging method of sewing the two sides of the bib together around the outside without making it too thick, especially with all the pocket fabric there.
- Make an applique’ using cookie cutter outlines.
- Make simple lined pockets, using a thinner, basic cotton, to help keep bulk down in the seams and provide some fun contrast. (click on any photo to enlarge)
1. I used my pattern that I made in the beginning to cut out one of the bib “fronts.” Then, I used this piece as the guide for the other front. I traced it with regular pencil and cut it out. Total, 2 “main fabric” bib pieces cut. Note: all seams are 1/4 inch unless otherwise stated.
Tracing one side of the DIY t-shirt neck baby bib from the other, to give a more exact fit of the pieces.
2. The pockets were cut out, 2 pieces for each pocket, so 4 pocket pieces total. Each pocket had one piece of the main fabric for that side of the bib, plus a thinner cotton for lining. This is the time to notice if you want to line up any particular stripes or patterns of the pocket with how the main part of the bib is cut out. I searched high and low through a scrap bin to finally find a lining that I thought would coordinate decently with the paisley fabric.
Pockets cut to fit the bottom curves of the bib.
3. Only the top edge of the pockets needs to be finished, because the side and bottom edges will be caught up when the whole bib is sewn together around the outside. To finish the top edge, the lining was sewn to the main fabric, right sides together. I understitched the seam to the lining, to help it lay flatter. Then, I folded the lining and main fabric wrong sides together right at the top edge seam line and pressed it all down.
A contrasting lining is used to finish the top edge of each pocket.
4. An applique was on the agenda for each pocket. I chose a little birdie cookie cutter to trace for both sides, something to unite both sides of the bib. It seems to work best to trace around the outside of the cookie cutter, leaving more of an edge to work with for the stitching around the edge. For sewing, as before, I went around with a regular straight stitch, to secure the applique’ shape and provide a better visual guideline when going around with the narrow zigzag stitch next. A clue about forming the inner corners with the zigzag, is to sew into the corner, stopping the needle at the inside aspect of a zigzag, then lifting the presser foot, turning the fabric, and continuing the zigzag down the other side. For going around an outward facing curve, just go slowly, giving the stitching time to fill in around the outer portion. For an outward facing corner, stitch past the corner, stopping the needle at the outside part of the zigzag, then turn the fabric and continue. All of this should give you good overlap in those transitions, to make the zigzag look complete.
A cookie cutter makes a great template for a simple applique’ shape.Beginning the zigzag around the edge of the applique’ following the straight stitch outline.
5. The PUL drip panel was going to be hidden between the two layers of the bib, but I had two things to work around. One, I had to piece some scrap PUL together again to get a large enough piece to use. I made straight edges on two scraps that were a good size to cover most of the front of the bib, overlapped them 1/4 inch. I stitched that flat fell seam. This PUL could now be put under the front of one of the bibs and have an outline traced on it (I used pencil again). It did not fill up the whole bib front, but it was close enough. I cut out that shape, only to put it on top of the bib and use a marker to draw a line about 1/2 inch inside from the outer edge of the bib. The idea was to not have to deal with the PUL in the seam allowance. I trimmed the PUL down to this size. The second issue was that the bright pattern on the PUL would should show through one of my main bib fabrics, but not the other. Thus, I made sure to pin it design side down to the darker bib front. I stitched around the edge of the PUL to hold it in place. This outline is fairly well obscured by the paisley of that bib front.
You can see where I have pieced together the PUL and traced the outer edge of the bib. The pencil worked decently for this, but the marker was easier to draw with on the PUL.Planning to trim away the PUL, so it won’t be in the seam allowance.The PUL is sewn around the edges.
6. With the appliques in place and the PUL lining secure, it is time to baste the raw edges of the pockets to the lower part of the bib. After I had done that, I trimmed any excess from the pocket that might make the edge seam too bulky.
The pocket is pinned in place, ready to be basted on.
7. Pinning the two fronts of the bib wrong sides together and sewing them with a regular straight stitch around the outer edges was basic. No need to stretch anything for this seam on this version of the bib, since both fabrics I chose were woven. When the sewing was done, I clipped the major curves, to help the seam be able to lay flatter when I turned the bib right sides out. Next, I turned it all right side out, finger pressed the seam a bit, then used an iron to press it all into shape with the seam being the outer most edge all the way around.
The paisley side of the bib after the outer edges have been sewn and the bib is turned right sides out.
8. The t-shirt that I had cut up to make my re-fashioned race t-shirt was a good color to make neck ribbing that would coordinate with both of my bib fabrics. I cut a 2 inch strip on the bias, just to make sure I got as much stretch as possible.
I turned the knit around to cut the other edge of the custom neck bib bias cut neck strip because it is always easiest for me to use the rotary cutter from the right side.
9. I remembered how slightly shortening the knit ribbing had worked for making the armholes of my t-shirt mentioned above, so I cut tested the stretch of the ribbing, to see how it would stretch to accommodate the 18 inch neck hole I was going to insert it into. Then, I cut the bias knit strip to 15 inches. You might want to adjust that measurement depending on how stretchy your knit is.
10. The short ends of the bias strip were sewn together, then the resulting circle folded wrong sides together lengthwise all the way around and pinned at points dividing the custom neck ribbing in equal fourths.
The neck ribbing is pinned at 4 equal points around the neck hole opening.
11. I also pinned the main neck hole in equal fourths, then matched those points to the points on my new neck ribbing. You have to decide which of the sides of the bib to use as your “right side” for this step. The seam on the other side will be taken care of later with some bias trim, so it might help to know which fabric you want to use for that before you proceed. I wanted to use the beige bird foot print fabric for my bias strip on the paisley side, so I used the pink striped side of the bib as my right side to sew the neck ribbing on.
The neck ribbing completely pinned in place, using the lighter colored side of the bib as the “right side” this time.
12. Now I could pin the rest of the neck hole to the ribbing, stretching the neck ribbing to fit the neck hole opening.
13. The neck hole seam was sewn with a narrow zigzag stitch to preserve as much stretchability in the neck opening as possible.
14. All that was left was to make the single fold bias strip to cover the neck hole seam on the paisley side of the bib. I cut a one inch strip of the fabric for this, actually not exactly on the bias, because my scrap was too narrow. After it was cut, using a straight edge and a rotary cutter, I pressed the edges of the strip over, creating a fold on each edge that would let me sew it in place with only the right side of the fabric showing. It was easier to press both edges at once, just positioning the fabric with my fingers, just out of reach of the hot iron, as I went along.
It is amazingly easy to make homemade bias strips. It is a good thing to save fabric scraps for, then use as fun coordinating fabrics for trim such as this.
15. It seemed best to sew the outer edge of the bias strip to the outer edge of the neck hole seam first. I did not pin anything, as it was too think right there and I would be manipulating the fabric as I sewed anyway. This stitch, also a narrow zigzag, was done to just cover the stitching from sewing the neck ribbing to the main bib fabric. The first end was left raw and flat, but the finishing end was folded under about 1/4 inch and sewn over that raw end when the circle was completed.
After sewing the outer edge of the bias strip, I left the needle in the fabric and turned the fabric to sew the folded end down. Then, I pivoted on the needle again to sew the inner edge of the neck opening.
16. To sew the inner edge of the bias strip over the seam allowance, I stretched the ribbing as I sewed with a narrow zigzag stitch. The thread color was the same as the ribbing, so it really cannot be seen from the other side. The bias strip puckered ever so slightly when I was done as it adjusted to the pull of the knit around the neck hole. You can see from the photo that you have to look for it to see it.
The bias strip neck trim all sewn in place.
The double pocket reversible DIY baby bib was now finished. The photos below show what it will look like from each side.
Paisley front side.Custom neck ribbing baby bib whimsey pink front side.
Coming soon, Ascher’s big boy bib with t-shirt strips used to bind the edges and a wrap around the back.
Let others know about Daily Improvisations!
Knitted clothes for children and adults in bulk from the manufacturer Knitted Paradise
Knitted clothes for children should be made of hypoallergenic, comfortable and durable material. Cotton and wool meet all these requirements in the best possible way, because they do not cause allergic reactions, are natural, lightweight, breathe well, absorb moisture and do not hinder the child’s movement.
Knitted clothes are of the highest quality and, in fact, the best for a child, in terms of convenience.In our online store there is a wide selection of knitted clothing designed for newborn babies, early childhood children, schoolchildren and young men. All clothing has appropriate quality certificates. We offer favorable terms of purchase both retail and wholesale.
Buy knitted clothes in Ukraine inexpensively
Since the first three months of its life, the newborn does not show much activity, but mainly eats and sleeps. Therefore, there is no need to buy expensive clothes.Here, cheap jerseys are suitable, which are soft to the touch and take care of the baby’s delicate skin. Undershirts are ideal, they have no seams and are conveniently put on a child. Alternatively, you can pay attention to overalls with terry or fleece fleece. However, for a newborn, you should not choose fashionable and expensive clothes; in the first days for a baby, the main thing is that the clothes do not irritate the skin and be comfortable.
At about six months old, the baby begins to crawl – this is another stage of the baby’s growing up.During this period, sliders appear in the child’s wardrobe, which are presented in our store in two types: long ones with straps and short ones with elastic bands. It is also good to acquire socks and caps. The latter can be thinner (for summer) and thicker (for winter). In winter, a warm knitted hat is put on the cap.
Knitted clothes for newborns
The main thing to look for when choosing clothes for babies is the material. It should be natural, comfortable and soft.Sentetics is not acceptable for newborns, since even a small use of it can cause an allergic reaction on the baby’s skin. Dyes can also be from natural substances. Knitted clothing must comply with international hygiene standards. For its manufacture, high-quality equipment is needed.
Clothes from knitted fabric for children of younger, preschool and school age are also made from natural raw materials. Prices for such products are available to families with average and low incomes.The manufacturer constantly pleases with new clothing models that are liked not only by parents, but more importantly by children.
Why should you pay attention to knitted clothes?
- All products are made of hypoallergenic material;
- the clothes are comfortable and soft;
- knitted fabric is very durable;
- products do not hinder the movement of the baby;
- natural materials can withstand repeated washing and do not lose their attractive appearance;
- the seams do not press or chafe the skin;
- all products are certified;
- it is profitable to buy both retail and wholesale jersey.
In conclusion, it should be added that knitwear is in great demand and constantly receives a lot of positive reviews.
90,000 Unbuttoned shirt off the man’s shoulder 2021: how to wear the fall trend, photos | Vogue Ukraine
The soft silhouettes that reigned in 2020 extended into 2021: light trousers, loose blouses and flat shoes were especially popular. Shirts have always held a special place in women’s wardrobe.The oversized shirt from the man’s shoulder is now relevant all year round, in a daytime or evening look – just ignore the buttons.
Celebrities are also supporting this trend: in June, Rihanna was spotted in a bright green shirt partially unbuttoned, in March, Haley Bieber wore a mint Paris Georgia curtain shirt, eytys baggy jeans and a Frankie Shop blazer.
One particular outfit combo has dominated social media in recent months, created by The Row founders sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen.Kendall Jenner was the first to go viral: in April, she was spotted in New York in a Wesler T-shirt from The Row under a cotton poplin Sisea shirt and wide leg pants from the Phoebe brand.
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley also shared her own minimalist look on Instagram. She greeted the Los Angeles sun in May in a soft jersey Chiara T-shirt tucked into iconic Rina trousers from The Row, a House of Dagmar leather belt and shirt, strappy sandals and a Hermès Birkin bag.
Celebrity enthusiasm for luxury pieces from The Row knows no bounds. Elsa Hosk has added Igor pants and a beige Sisilia shirt to her summer wardrobe and pairs them with a white ribbed tank top and a monogrammed Celine Ava bag.
However, it is not only neutral shades that are in trend. It girls, including Pernille Teisbeck, Emily Syndlev and Camille Charrière, are opting for bold colors this summer. Gigi Hadid and Dua Lipa are also fans of bright shirts – the latter recently walked a colorful printed shirt from Palace.
Whether you choose something discreet or bright, the shirt is the smartest investment in the coming season.
Text: Alice Cary
Based on materials from vogue.co.uk.
Fabric rib – what is it, description, fine silk material
Small ribbed poplin has been known since the 14th century: for priests in Avignon (France), they began to sew clothes from a special material, which they called papalino, “papal”.In the Russian Empire, matter appeared in the 18th century, here it was called “European coarse calico”. About the description of the fabric will be below in the article.
Sometimes poplin is considered a kind of coarse calico precisely because of the plain weave of threads. The fabric is distinguished by small transverse ribs (uniform convex stripes), which are formed due to the use of threads of different thicknesses: a thin thread is used for the warp, and a thick thread is used for the weft.
Description and composition of finely ribbed poplin fabric
Initially, the linen was produced in silk.Now it is produced from cotton and synthetics, less often from silk and wool. Sometimes the fabric can contain different fibers – this is already mixed poplin. The most popular and most appreciated 100% cotton poplin from Pakistan, China, India and Turkey. Grodesin is considered the most expensive variety of it (translated from French as “the best of India”).
Poplin is often subject to special processing during production – mercerization. Mercerization of tissues is a technological stage of material processing with a concentrated alkali solution.As a result, the canvas acquires a silky sheen.
The fabric is soft to the touch, tactile sensations are pleasant. Poplin products keep their shape well, allow air to pass through, absorb moisture well and do not wrinkle. There is a slight sheen on the surface of the matter, which gives things a special chic.
Dormeo orthopedic mattresses will provide a comfortable sleep.
No proven health hazard for polyurethane foam mattresses.
Reviews of thin mattresses on the sofa: // izvolokna.com / domashnii / spalnya / postelnoe-bele-s / tonkie-matrasy-dlya-divana.html.
- Bleached. Due to the effect of special chemicals, the fabric becomes snow-white, yellowness and grayness are removed completely.
Plain colored .
The fabric is dyed in one color, the dyeing process takes place after bleaching.
- Multicolored . The fabric is woven from multi-colored threads. Striped or checkered patterns are common.
- Printed or Printed .
A drawing is applied to the fabric using special equipment.
What is sewn from the material?
According to the composition, poplin is of different types: cotton, silk, woolen and synthetic. And each fiber gives the fabric a certain quality. But from any raw material it is suitable for sewing clothes: the fabric falls beautifully, and a small sheen gives a special elegance.
Poplin from the time of its appearance was intended for sewing clothes and decoration of the church.
Sew from this material:
- Clothes : shirts (for men and women), blouses, jackets, dresses (evening, cocktail and casual), pajamas, children’s clothing.
- Home textiles (curtains, towels, tablecloths, decorative items).
- Uniform (service workers and athletes).
Bed linen . Most often, poplin made from natural cotton is used for sewing it, less often silk and wool.
Bedding sets are used at home and in expensive, respectable hotels and sanatoriums.
Sizes of double bed linen may vary by manufacturer.
Reviews about Casanova bedding: //izvolokna.com/domashnii/spalnya/postelnoe-bele-s/kazanova.html.
Recently, microfiber bed linen produced by Ivanovo is in demand.
Advantages of poplin bedding
- Increased strength (very tear resistant) although the fabric is thin.This property is achieved due to the way the threads are woven, as well as the density of the fabric. Weaving of fabric is plain: the simplest weaving, when the longitudinal thread (weft) crosses the vertical threads (warp) through one. A similar technology is used in the production of calico and calico.
- Wear resistance. Withstands 150-200 washes.
- High density – up to 120 g / m2. Satin, jacquard, percale are more dense than poplin. Read about which fabric is best for bedding: satin or poplin here.
- Soft and pleasant texture.
- Does not fade;
- Not deformed;
- The linen is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture).
- Excellent air permeability.
- Good thermoregulation (retains heat – warms up in the cold, and in the heat – pleasantly cools).
- Does not need special care (washing in a machine, water temperature – according to the instructions, often – 40 degrees. Ironing is not necessary, because it practically does not wrinkle).
- Large assortment of colors. There are poplin bedding with a 3D effect.
- Affordability (cheaper than satin).
- Because of the rib, it is more difficult to cut it than the same satin. You need to have certain skills.
- Improper care may cause fabric shrinkage. This applies to poplin, which contains wool.
Strong, durable, affordable – these are the main characteristics of poplin and, accordingly, products from it.When purchasing products from this material, you need to pay attention to the composition of the fabric and indicators of density (the quality of the fabric is better if the density of poplin is at least 120 g / m²). You need to take care of the product, according to the instructions on the label, then the poplin will serve and delight for a long time.
Two years ago, our mother-in-law gave us a poplin bedding set for housewarming. We use it actively and I’m not happy with it: it’s soft, pleasant to the body, it hasn’t changed its shape or color, there are no pellets, I wash it at 40 degrees and don’t iron at all! I decided to give such a kit to the kuma for the anniversary, began to search the Internet for information and read a lot of bad reviews.In general, I was confused: it turns out that you can easily run into a fake! Which manufacturer is mine, I don’t remember, but in others I’m not sure anymore. Probably I will give something else.
I bought a poplin KPB on the recommendation of the seller. The size fit well (I just had such that the duvet cover turned out to be a little smaller than the duvet). I washed it several times already: it did not shed, the pellets did not form. In general, I am satisfied with the linen and there is nothing to complain about, only, as for me, it is still a little harsh.I thought about this even when I bought it in the store, but I thought that it would become softer after washing, but it did not happen. These are my personal feelings, but maybe it will be important for someone too.
In addition to bed linen, which I simply adore for being easy to clean, our family has a lot of poplin clothes: my husband has several shirts, I have a blouse and a sundress, my daughter has a blouse and pajamas. Very good wearing, easy to wash and very easy to iron. I recommend to everyone, especially for the summer!
Bought in the online store PBC from poplin with a 3D effect.I am a little disappointed by the appearance: the drawing is not very clear, it did not fit in the cut and the pillowcases generally turned out with different pictures. The quality of the fabric is dense, pleasant to the body. After washing, the pattern did not change, nothing faded, no pellets appeared. For myself, I concluded: you can buy poplin kits, but without a 3D effect, there’s no need to overpay!
Also find out which bedding fabric is the best in this material.
This video will show you how to choose fabrics for your bedding.