Stiff fabric liner: How to add volume to a dress : 10 stiff fabrics that can make it poofy and fuller

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How to add volume to a dress : 10 stiff fabrics that can make it poofy and fuller

Have you wondered at how some of the gowns worn by celebrities hold up their almost gravity-defying postures? Those puffy looking but beautiful gowns make quite a statement. What is inside them that makes it look so voluminous making the wearer inside seem ethereal and all feminine, like a princess. They all have one thing in common – a  secret ingredient, perhaps!

How to make a dress puff out or make it look fluffy

Actually, I bluffed. There is no groundbreaking secret to this great bouffant look but a clever use of appropriately stiff fabrics. Even the most softest of fabric can be turned into a dreamy princess gown by adding this fabric as underlayers or over layers.

Here is a list of fabrics that can aid you in creating volume for your next creation, and make it look fuller- these stiff fabrics can be used as the outer layer or inside layer or even as a petticoat or part of the petticoat.

Related post : Another way to add stiffness is to use a boning. Check out this post on Different types of Boning.

10 Stiff fabrics that can add volume to clothes
1. Crinoline

This is the number one stiff fabric used inside full skirts. This fabric is a low thread count fabric (cotton or polyester or nylon or a blend of cotton and polyester) with a very crisp and stiff hand given by starching or a chemical resin finish. Usually, it is a woven cotton fabric, though and takes dyes nicely.

The best thing about the fabric is that it is also lightweight. It is used inside gowns and skirts in many layers to create the volume you need. It may be made into lining for the skirts or added as strips inside on petticoats or underskirt. Sometimes strips of crinoline is added to the hem of skirts to make it look even wider – without adding much volume anywhere else like waist or hem. You usually get crinoline in white colour.

The stiff hand of the crinoline fabric is due to the fabric finishes applied to it. Because of this very reason, you may find that if you are using crinoline as an inside layer fabric starts to scratch your skin. You may need to use an underskirt between crinoline and your skin as a necessity.

2. Net fabrics

All netting fabrics are great at adding fullness to clothes as they look voluminous on their own. They have a natural stiffness as well as added stiff sizing. The advantage of netting is that it is very lightweight. It adds a voluminous shape without weighing down the dress. Nylon or Polyester filament net fabric is the one used to make underskirt with multiple layers that gives the best fullness.

Tulle is a net fabric with small hexagonal holes -it has a fluffy look with a very fine soft hand. It is a frequently used fabric to make wedding gowns, veils, headdresses. Multiple layers of tulle fabric are used as underskirts or over petticoats or lining or as the skirt itself to create a very fluffy poofy silhouette for the gowns.

Other Net fabrics that are harder than tulle can be used inside the gowns, on petticoats to create the volume you need. Nylon netting has a very stiff hand and is used frequently in costumes, dance skirts to give the necessary fullness. The stiffness is due to the sizing which includes plastic resin finishes. When buying net fabrics three things are most important – shape of the holes, number of holes per inch/cm, and the hand of the fabric.

Read more on net fabrics here.

3. Horse Canvas

Horse canvas refers to a group of woven fabrics made from wool, goat’s hair and horse hair (sometimes blended with rayon, cotton or polyester). It is added as a structuring fabric and as interlining.

Horsehair fabric /braid

This is a very very stiff open weave synthetic fabric (nylon), that are used inside garments to create the bouffant look. These are hard and scratchy against the skin so may need a facing.
The horsehair braids are used on hems of skirts to give the pouffy look.

Read the post on how to apply horsehair braid on your dress hem to make it look voluminous.

4. Organdy and Organza

Organdy and organza, are sheer fabrics that have a stiff and crisp hand and can be used in clothes to add volume. Organdy is made of cotton fibers whereas organza is made of rayon fibers.

These fabrics, when added as many layers either outside or inside, can create a voluminous silhouette. The crispiness of this fabric is partly due to the tightly twisted yarns used in their construction and sizing added – starch or synthetic resins

Silk Gazar is a heavy silk fabric similar to organza that is very stiff and is used to make full skirts with volume. The fabric is very crisp and suitable for making dresses with a bouffant look.

5. Marquisette

This is a sheer mesh fabric that has a stiff hand when made with two or three-ply yarn. It is used as a stiff lining fabric. The stiffness can be a result of sizing – some may be water-soluble and the shape may be lost if wet.

6. Buckram

This is a broad term used to describe many stiff fabrics. One type of fabric is made by gluing two fabric together. Another is a linen fabric which is stiffened with flour paste china clay and glue, another is a cotton with heavy sizing.

The cotton one is a loosely woven fabric that almost looks like gauze. You can add starch or any sizing to give it good stiffness, to add volume or the necessary shape to the silhouette. The fabric is usually manipulated to the shape you want with steam heat and pressure over moulds and will retain the shape so long as it is not wet.

You may confuse it with crinoline; one way to know is that crinoline fibers are thinner and has a tighter weave than buckram. Buckram is firmer and stiffer than crinoline. 

This fabric is usually used in hat making and to add small stiff design elements in clothes. One disadvantage is that if exposed to water or even heat the buckram may lose the shape you have made it into.

7. Primed gauze fabric – Tarlatan fabric

This is an almost transparent taffeta weave cotton fabric with a special finish that gives it stiffness, used as interfacing or lining. It is used mainly to make costumes and in making hats ( as the base of hats). Another use is in bookbinding. It is available in ecru and white colors

8. Interfacing/interlining

Stabilizers and Interfacing

These are non-woven fabrics added to the back of the regular fabric to give it body and stiffness. Interfacing may be sewn in or fusible. The fusible is attached to the back of the fabric with the glue present in the fabric activated when pressed with a hot iron. Woven sew-in interfacing is a cotton fabric with a slight stiffness. When a stiff shape is desired the interfacing can be used as a skeleton that will support the shape.

Read more on posts : stabilizers, underlining and interfacing

Interlining. 

Interlining is added as an extra layer between the outer fabric and inner lining to give support and structure to the outer fabric. Interfacing is added to specific areas whereas interlining is added to the whole garment/area. Foam rubber is used in shoulder pads, bras, bodices etc to give shape and structure. 

9. Taffeta

Taffeta has a crisp hand and a ribbed weave and is a favourite for making skirts /evening wear with a full silhouette.Nylon/polyester taffeta is comparatively stiffer. Loom finished taffeta fabric has special sizing applied to it that gives it volume. Paper taffeta refers to a very stiff taffeta fabric with a lacquer finish.

10. Regular heavyweight Fabrics

If you want a dress that holds its shape without resorting to adding other fabrics as inside layers you can sew your dress with heavyweight fabrics like velveteen fabric, denim, corduroy, wool tweed, and other tightly woven fabrics. Melton is a heavyweight wool fabric that holds the shape very well. Chinz is a highly glazed group of fabrics, made so by applying a finish and pressed between rollers to give a luster. You can further enhance the stiff quality of these fabrics by adding some of the stiff fabrics mentioned earlier as inner layers.

Read more on the 10 different types of thick and heavy weight fabrics.

The structure you get from your fabric -this depends a great deal on the fiber content, yarn, and finishing techniques used in the fabric of your choice. So choose your fabric with care, for that full poofy look for your dress.

One sure fire way to add volume to your garment is to wear a voluminous petticoat under it. Here is a post on making petticoats like this. You can also apply starch on fabrics to make them as stiff as you want them. Here is a post listing all the different ways of making homemade starch for fabric

Related posts : Sewing tips and techniques.

Affiliate disclaimer : When you buy a product you see in this page, I may get a small commission but it will be at no extra cost to you.

Application, Types, Properties and Selecting Tips

Lining fabric refers to a group of materials inserted into various garments, from skirts and shorts to dresses, jackets and coats. Such fabrics can be made of natural or synthetic fibers and range from sheer to opaque.

While most of them are produced in solid colors, you can still find lots of patterned lining materials. This F. A. Q. section covers the most popular questions about lining fabrics, their types, and properties.

Lining fabric collection at Tissura Online Store

What Is It Used for?

The purpose of lining fabric is to make your garment more wearable, long-lasting and comfortable. They are usually lightweight and have a soft or silky texture. Not all items need to be lined, though. Here are some reasons why sewists turn to lining materials:

  • To make the garment less see-through
  • To add warmth and durability
  • To make the inside part of the garment soft and pleasant to the touch
  • To lend a luxury note to a garment
  • To improve the structure of a garment
  • To help the garment slide on easily
  • To conceal seams, padding, interfacing, etc.

When choosing the appropriate lining for a project, one needs to pay attention to the stretch factor. If the garment is not stretchy, e.g. a cotton shirt or a wool jacket, non-stretch lining fabric is ok. But if the item is made with elastic materials like jersey, tulle or stretch satin, the lining one ends up choosing should be stretchy as well.

Lining, Underlining, Interlining — What’s the Difference?

Sounds confusing, right? Actually, the puzzle is quite easy to solve! These are layers inside a garment that serve different purposes.

Lining is attached to the inner part of the garment to help keep its shape, hide the interior construction and facilitate the whole putting on/taking off thing. Interlining is added to a garment for extra warmth and insulation (some examples include fleece or flannel) and can be removable, in which case it is also called ‘a liner’.

Underlining provides more body and opacity: it is cut for every pattern piece separately and attached to the wrong side of the outer fabric. Mind that the double layer material you get in this case is treated as one.

Types

Silk, viscose, acetate, polyester and rayon are among the most popular fibers used for lining materials. In many ways, the fiber type is the key factor: it influences the way your lining feels to the touch, the way it sews and drapes, its breathability and – last but not the least – the price point. Below are the types of lining cloths available on the market:

Many lining fabrics are interchangeable, which means you can use various textures and compositions – it’s all up to your preferences and budget.

What Is Cupro Lining and Why Is It So Popular?

Cupro is a man-made fiber derived from the cotton linter. Developed in Japan, it resembles both silk and cotton, taking the best of two worlds. What exactly makes cupro so popular?

  • It is durable
  • It is breathable
  • It is static-resistant
  • It is silky smooth
  • It is more affordable than silk

Cupro lining is often chosen for men’s jackets, vests and pants.

Lightweight and silk-looking, it makes any wool suit (and wool is definitely the number-one men’s suiting fabric) super comfortable and breathable. Plus, it is an-all season fabric, cool in summer and warm in winter. The delicate shine it offers to the garment elevates the entire look while saving you money.

What is Bemberg lining fabric?

Bemberg is the most common Cupro brand. The two notions are often used interchangeably.

What Exactly Is Silk Habotai Lining and When to Use It?

Silk habotai, also known as China silk or pongee, is a featherweight silk fabric with a soft, smooth finish and elegant sheen. Due to its semi-sheer nature, habotai is mostly used to line delicate garments, such as summer blouses, skirts, dresses, lightweight jackets, pants, and kimonos.

Made of 100% silk, this thin fabric is not very durable, which means it is not suitable for close-fitting garments. To make the most of it, use it in full or loose silhouettes.

How Do I Choose Lining Fabric for My Sewing Project?

When sewing, we tend to pay more attention to the outer fabric rather than the inside. However, choosing the right lining is half the battle. It will make even the scratchiest garment comfortable to wear and hide all the flaws if there are any.

“Luxury is what cannot be seen” Coco Chanel

So, what is the best lining you can get for your item?

Take a closer look at your fashion fabric. The rule of thumb goes like this: the more lightweight your shell materials is, the more lightweight lining it requires. Heavier fabrics work well with various types of lining. Here’s a little piece of advice:

  1. Summer clothes like flimsy dresses, skirts, pants: choose cotton lining fabric for cotton garments (lawn, voile, or batiste) and silk lining for silk ones (habotai, chiffon, satin, crepe de chine). Viscose and rayon linings are also a great option.
  2. Evening gowns, skirts, velvet and brocade jackets: go with china silk, silk satin, silk crepe or taffeta.
  3. Suit jackets and trousers: try viscose, cupro or bemberg linings; silk is also a nice choice.
  4. Knit garments: opt for stretch linings, such as fine jersey or tricot.
  5. Fall and winter coats: for extra warmth, consider fleece, fake fur, Sherpa or quilted lining; for decorative purposes, try silk satin or acetate lining.

There are no strict rules you should follow when it comes to choosing the color of your lining material. Feel free to try several options until you find the one that fits the most. You may go with similar or complementary colors, e.g. a light blue or golden lining for a navy jacket, or swap to contrasting shades to add some zing. For a playful mood, try printed linings. The only recommendation would be to combine patterned linings with solid shell fabrics, otherwise it would be quite difficult to get it right.

Which Lining Would You Recommend for Dresses and Suits?

Each lining material has its pros and cons, and it’s very important to weigh all your options before making a decision. Whether you go with silk, cotton or acetate, make sure you buy a high quality lining fabric from the reliable manufacturer. This way, it will be durable, defect-free and colorfast. Here’s the best Tissura Online Shop can offer in terms of linings:

  • Silk lining, stretch silk lining, silk habotai (perfect for couture apparel, jackets, slip-on dresses and more) Belinac, France.
  • Cupro and Bemberg lining (ideal materials to line suits) Scabal, Belgium.
  • Viscose and viscose/acetate lining
    (great for suits) – Dormeuil, France; Scabal, Belgium.

As they say in Asia, it’s always better once see than to hear about it a thousand times. Below, we have selected some of the most alluring lining fabrics from our range:

Silk habotai fabric, 56 US$ (45 €) per one running metre

Silk habotai fabric, 56 US$ (45 €) per one running metre

Silk habotai fabric, 56 US$ (45 €) per one running metre

Types of Interfacing | What is Interfacing & When to Use it

Are the types of interfacing

making you confused? Here is an easy guide to help you on your way. Interfacing is a modern way to share a skill or communicate. You can interface on the computer, or you can interface on networks. AND…you can interface in a material world. So sing along ‘ Material Girl’  while you learn about interfacing, in a material world.

Types of Interfacing

What is Interfacing?

Interfacing is a woven or non-woven fabric that is used to stiffen certain areas of garments and sewing projects. It is sewn or fused to the wrong side of the fabric to give structure and shape.

Common places it is used include collars and cuffs, underneath buttoned areas, in waistbands and in many home decor projects.

Interfacing is predominantly white but can also be black or grey. It is very rarely colored.

Most types of interfacing can be purchased from your local fabric store or quilting store. If you need to shop online, don’t forget to check Amazon and eBay.

Why do we use different types of interfacing?

Some of the most common reasons we use interfacing are:

  • GARMENTS – It gives shape, support and stability to the framework of garments. Interfacing is especially useful for button plackets, collars and cuffs.
  • CLUTCHES – Clutches, purses and bags typically need interfacing to give them some stiffness and body. It adds structure.
  • QUILTING – Interfacing gives weight and warmth to quilting items.
  • INCREASE THICKNESS – It gives body to some otherwise flimsy fabric.
  • EMBROIDERY – It provides stability to fabric that is to be embroidered.
  • FINISHES – Interfacing adds to the professional look of a finished garment

Types of Interfacing

The types of interfacing you will choose will depend on the weight of the fabric you are lining and the end result you desire. For example for stiff fabrics and garments, you may use a medium weight interfacing. For soft fabrics you will need a lighter interfacing. Some fabrics will wrinkle if you use fusible interfacing so that is also something to consider.

There are 6 main types of interfacing.

  1. Woven interfacing: This looks like woven fabric.  If you look at the image below you can see a definite weave in the fabric. Cutting with the grain is important as the bias will have a slight stretch.
  2. Non- woven interfacing:  Non-woven interfacing is bonded and has a texture that looks like paper. It does not have a grain and can be cut in any direction.
  3. Knit interfacing: This has a bit of stretch and so is useful for interfacing knit fabrics. If you used a non-stretch interfacing with a t-shirt for example, the interfacing would stop the item from stretching, leading to wrinkles and a reduction in elasticity.
  4. Fusible interfacing: This interfacing has glue on the back and can be pressed on with a steam iron which makes the interfacing adhere to the fabric.
  5. Non-fusible interfacing: This can be woven or non-woven. If the interfacing is non-fusible, then it must be stitched in place.  This type of interfacing can give a garment a freer look when completed.
  6. Double-sided fusible: There is also a double-sided fusible type of interfacing that bonds with the fabric on both sides. I use this extensively when sewing appliques. It holds your pieces in place and stops the edges from fraying.
Types of Interfacing – Woven vs Non-Woven

How to Apply Types of Interfacing

It is always advisable to read the instructions that accompany the interfacing before you start to apply it to your material.

Step 1 – Pre-Wash

Pre-wash your interfacing and fabric. Soak it in some cold water, then dry before using it in case it shrinks. You don’t want your fabric or interfacing to shrink at a different rate after they have been fused as this will lead to wrinkles on the outside of your item.

Step 2 – Test

Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric to make sure the outcome and feel is what you want. Most interfacing can feel quite different when fused to fabric. They may be stiffer or softer than you expect.

Step 3 – Fuse or Stitch

Non Fusible Types of Interfacing Tips:

Non-fusible interfacing will need to be stitched in with a basting stitch to keep it in place and then stitched with the garment. You may need to remove these stitches at the end if they are still visible. Use a contrasting colored thread to pull the basting stitches out easily.

Fusible Types of Interfacing Tips:
  • Check that you are going to apply the shiny side to the fabric wrong side and that your iron is at the right temperature.
  • Ensure fusible interfacing will not cause wrinkles on the outside of your fabric.
  • Always use a presser cloth to stop fusible interfacing from sticking to the iron.
  • Wait for the fabric to cool before continuing to sew.  This enables the glue from the interfacing to bond onto the fabric and dry.
  • If you should get some interfacing on the iron, then let the iron cool before peeling off the interfacing that is stuck to the iron.
Types of Interfacing – Fusible and Non-Fusible

Types of Interfacing Weights

It is important not to use a weight of interfacing that is heavier than the fabric that you are sewing.

  • Featherweight is light and durable for fine fabrics.
  • Medium weight offers a wide variety of types of interfacing for most projects.
  • Heavyweight is the stronger type able to add structure to purses and hat brims.

Interfacing Brand Names Available

Popular Types of Interfacing Brand Names Are:

Pellon, Bosal, C+ T, Clover, Handler, Thermo-web, Sulky, Vilene

Here are some of the popular types of interfacing:

  • Peltex – 71F ultra-firm interfacing which is great for bag making, crafts, home decorating, and quilting
  • Decorbond 809 – crisp texture
  • Shapeflex 101 – a woven type
  • Fuse N shape – double-sided and firm
  • Deco fuse 520 – thin but stiff
  • Fusible fleece –  I use this as lining for a lot of my clutch patterns. It gives a soft feel to the clutch while providing great body.
  • Organza – this is a very fine, sew-in option for soft fabrics.

Types of Interfacing – In Conclusion

Now you have all the information on the types of interfacing, all you need to do is try out the suggestions in your “material world” and watch the finish of your work rise to new levels of professionalism.

You will be a material girl, interfacing in your material world.

Learn How to Sew More Fabric

Check out these other fabrics listed alphabetically.

  1. CHIFFON – Sewing Chiffon
  2. BATIK – What is Batik
  3. CANVAS – Sewing Canvas
  4. COTTON – Sewing Cotton
  5. DENIM – Sewing Denim
  6. FELT – Sewing Felt
  7. FUR – Sewing Fur
  8. KNITS – How to Sew Stretch Fabric
  9. INTERFACING – Types of Interfacing
  10. LACE – How to Sew Lace
  11. LEATHER – Sewing Leather
  12. RAYON – Sewing Rayon
  13. SHEER – Sewing Sheer Fabrics
  14. SILK – How to Sew Silk
  15. THICK – Sewing Thick Fabrics
  16. VELVET Sewing Velvet
  17. WOOL – Sewing Wool

Guide to Fabrics

What the heck is that fabric, anyway? Have you ever asked yourself that question? I have! Here’s a handy guide to a number of common garment fabrics on the market.

Batiste

Contents: Cotton, silk, polyester.
This fabric is very finely woven. It is frequently semi-sheer.
Uses: Lingerie and nightgowns, linings, interfacing. It is frequently used in heirloom sewing and baby clothes. It is machine washable or dry-cleanable.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Broadcloth

Contents: Cotton, silk, rayon, polyester.
Broadcloth gets its name from the fact that it was woven on broad-width looms. Way back when, most fabrics were woven on 27 inch wide looms. Broadcloth was woven on looms more closely resembling the modern 44 and 60″ widths. Broadcloth is also a generic term for a smooth, plain-weave fabric that is used for prints.
Uses: Shirting, dresses, sleepwear, casual wear. Depending on the fabric content, it is washable, handwashable and dry-cleanable.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Brocade

Contents: Just about any fiber you can think. Wools, cottons, silk, man-made fibers and blends.
This is a heavy, rich fabric made on jacquard looms to give it texture, woven with extra threads in multiple colors. It has a stiff hand and is often made with a satin finish and metallic threads.
Uses: Suits, sportswear, evening wear, bridal, accessories, home decoration. This fabric has a tendency to catch and snag easily, making lining a must. It is usually dry-clean only. It also has a tendency to ravel so make sure you finish seams when sewing with it.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate to Difficult

Calico

Contents: Cotton.
This is an inexpensive, plain weave cotton that was originally made in Calicut (Calcutta), hence the name. It is usually printed.
Uses: Shirting, kids clothes. Machine washable. Wears well and is easy to sew.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Canvas

Contents: Cotton, cotton/poly blend.
This is a very stiff cloth, similar to drill and sailcloth, but lighter. It is a very durable cloth.
Uses: Tote bags, upholstery, lightweight jackets and coats. Easy to sew, but requires some patience because it can be stiff.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Challis

Contents: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon.
A very soft woven cloth, often with a somewhat brushed surface. Has a lovely drape making it suitable for flowing garments.
Uses: Dresses, separates, scarves. Depending on fabric content, washable or dry-clean.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Charmeuse

Contents: Silk, polyester, rayon, blends.
Very soft, drapey fabric with a lustrous face and a dull back side.
Uses: Dresses, eveningwear, scarves, blouses, pants. Hand wash or dry clean. Because it is so slippery, it can be difficult to cut and sew. I prefer to use very sharp shears or a rotary cutter to reduce distortion of the fabric.
Sewing Difficulty: Difficult

Chenille

Contents: Cotton, wool, polyester, blends.
A fabric with a fuzzy pile, often cut in patterns. Sheds when cut.
Uses: Robes, jackets, bedspreads. Machine wash. Make sure you finish your seams.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Chiffon

Contents: Silk, polyester.
Lightweight, sheer, plain-weave fabric made from twisted yarns. Very drapey with a lovely hand. Quite strong, despite its delicate appearance. Has a tendency to snag and pull easily.
Uses: Dresses, eveningwear, scarves, blouses, lingerie. Hand wash or dry clean. Like charmeuse, it is slippery and difficult to cut and sew. I recommend hand basting seams before stitching to reduce slippage.
Sewing Difficulty: Difficult

China Silk

Contents: Silk.
Lightweight, inexpensive, plain-weave silk fabric. Not very durable. Has a tendency to pull and tear at the seamlines. Very lightweight in most cases. Handwash or dry clean. Some linings labelled “china silk” are made of polyester.
Uses: Linings, blouses, men’s boxer shorts.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Coating

Contents: Wool, polyester, cashmere, mohair, blends.
Heavyweight fabrics, ranging from flannels to jacquard styles to boucle. Typical examples include melton, boiled wool, camel’s hair, heavy tweeds, etc.
Uses: Coats, jackets. Can be pre-fused. Dry-clean recommended in most cases.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Contents: Cotton, cotton blends.
A rugged cloth woven with vertical ribs, or “wales”. Originally worn by servants of the French monarchy (corps du roi, hence the name). This is a very durable cloth that can be plain, or nowadays is embellished with printing or embroidery.
Uses: Pants, coats, jackets, shirts, kids’ clothing. Machine washable. Serge seams to reduce shedding of fibers.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Cotton/Lycra Knit

Contents: Cotton and Lycra blended together, usually 94 to 98 percent cotton with 2 to 6 percent Lycra, to give more stretch and elasticity to cotton knits.
This fabric has a very good “memory”, and will retain its shape better and longer than plain cotton knits. Available in a wide variety of colors and prints.
Uses: T-shirts, dresses, kids’ clothing, underwear, loungewear.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Cotton/Lycra Twill

Contents: Cotton twill blended with a small percentage (about 2 to 3 percent) of Lycra to give stretch and elasticity.
This fabric has gained tremendously in popularity in the last several years, thanks to its forgiving nature on the body and its rugged durability. Available in a wide variety of colors and prints.
Uses: Sportswear, jackets and coats, kids’ clothing, dresses. Machine washable. Use a stretch needle to avoid skipped stitches.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Crepe

Contents: Silk, rayon, cotton, wool, polyester, blends.
This fabric has a distinctive, crinkled surface texture, thanks to the very tightly twisted yarns used to make it. Lightweight crepes include georgette. Midweight crepes include wool crepes seen in dresses and sportswear. Heavyweight crepe includes four-ply, in which four yarns are twisted together to create each yarn that is woven into the crepe. Very luxurious, and wears like iron.
Uses: Dresses, sportswear, evening and bridal. Hand wash or dry clean.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Crepe de Chine

Contents: Silk, polyester, rayon, nylon, acetate, blends.
Very soft, drapey fabric with a lustrous face and back side. Crepe yarns are used both for the warp (lengthwise threads) and the weft or filling threads. Used to be very difficult to find, but now it’s one of the most common types of silk available on the market.
Uses: Dresses, blouses, shirts, lingerie. Hand wash or dry clean.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Damask

Contents: Wool, cotton, linen, silk, polyester, and blends.
A reversible fabric woven on jacquard looms. Flatter and more durable than its cousin, brocade. Usually woven in a solid color. Damask is one of the oldest fabrics.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, jackets, home decor. Machine- or hand-washable, some (woolens) require dry-cleaning.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Denim

Contents: Cotton, cotton blends.
A rugged twill cloth. Gets its name from the town Nimes in France, where it was first made. The cloth was originally called Serge de Nimes in French.
Uses: Possibly the most popular cloth in the world, denim is used for everything from jeans to home-decor. Machine washable.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Doubleknit

Contents: Cotton, wool, polyester, nylon, blends.
A medium to heavy fabric, knitted on a machine with two sets of needles. Both sides of the fabric look the same, so the fabric is reversible. Hand wash or dry clean. Use ball-point needles.
Uses: Dresses, pants, coats, jackets.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Dupioni

Contents: Silk, polyester, blends.
Lustrous, light to medium-weight fabric made from a tight, plain weave that has slubbed yarns on the cross-weave or weft. These slubs, or irregular threads, give dupioni its characteristic texture. That texture also means that dupioni has a tendency to be weak on seamlines that take a lot of stress.
Uses: Dresses, pants, jackets, blouses, eveningwear, bridal, home decor. Hand wash or dry clean. You can also machine wash dupioni as long as you machine wash the fabric before sewing with it.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Faille

Contents: Silk, cotton, wool, polyester.
This firm fabric has distinct ribs on the crosswise grain. The ribs can be of equal or varying widths. Dry clean only. Use as fine a needle as possible – tends to leave holes.
Uses: Dresses, shirts, blouses, evening and bridal wear.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Fake Fur

Contents: Polyester. Usually a knitted fabric with long pile on one side designed to look like fur. Dry clean only. Use a comb to pull fur out of seams.
Uses: Coats, jackets, accessories. Use with-nap layouts.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Flannel

Contents: Cotton, wool, cotton blends.
A woven fabric that is brushed, producing a lofty finish that is warm and soft. Ranges in weight from lightweight to heavyweight. Comes in a large variety of solids and prints. All-cotton flannel has a tendency to shrink. Machine washable. Wool flannel may require dry-cleaning.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, jackets, sleepwear, loungwear, kids’ clothing, home decor.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Fleece

Contents: Polyester.
Fleece is the generic term for a fabric that is knitted from long polyester fibers and then processed to produce a lofty, warm fabric. The fibers used are recycled, in many cases, from plastic bottles. There are a number of types of fleece: microfleece, 100 and 200 denier weight, wind-blocking, wicking and others. Brand names include Polartec, Polarfleece, Powerdry, Windblock, Alpine Fleece and many others. Technical fleeces may require special needles (Microtex or titanium).
Uses: Sportswear, outerwear, exercise wear, sleepwear, technical garments for specialized applications like SCUBA diving, mountain climbing, skiing, hiking and others.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Gabardine

Contents: Wool, cotton, blends.
Firm twill weave that is generally quite durable. Usually found in midweights. Depending on the fabric content, washable or dry-cleanable. Leaves marks if you have to rip out seams.
Uses: Coats, including raincoats, pants, jackets, menswear.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Gauze

Contents: Cotton, wool, silk, poly/blends.
Sheer, open-weave fabric.
Uses: Casual wear, dresses. Machine washable, but cotton gauze shrinks excessively. Silk and wool gauze should be dry cleaned to maintain hand.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Georgette

Contents: Silk, polyester, rayon, blends.
Sheer crepe fabric. Often made from twisted yarns, similar to crepe.
Uses: Evening wear, blouses, dresses, scarves, lingerie.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Interlock

Contents: Cotton, wool, poly/blends.
Closely woven knits that look the same on both sides. Can be difficult to distinguish from jersey. Generally a heavier knit than jersey.
Uses: T-shirts, dresses, kids’ clothing, underwear, activewear.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Jersey

Contents: Cotton, wool, rayon, poly/blends, silk.
Lightweight plain-knit fabric with ribs on the face and purl stitches on the back (in fine jerseys, the two sides can be difficult to tell apart). Good give and recovery. Generally soft and easy to wear. Wool jersey can be handwashed or dry-cleaned. Silk jersey should be dry-cleaned. Other jerseys generally stand up to machine washing.
Uses: Dresses, tops, kids’ clothes, underwear.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Lace

Contents: Cotton, nylon, polyester, silk.
Comes in many different styles. Alencon, Battenberg, beaded, Chantilly, Cluny, guipure, stretch lace, Valenciennes and Venise lace are common types. Costs range from quite inexpensive for stretch lace and allover lace to thousands of dollars for beaded and other types. Comes in many widths ranging from 1/4″ trim to 8″ galloons to 54″ wide fabrics. Most stretch lace is machine washable. Dry-clean any others to be safe.
Uses: Evening, bridal, trims, dresses, lingerie, nightgowns, baby clothes.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to difficult, depending on the type of lace

Linen

Contents: linen, blends.
A sturdy fabric made from the flax plant. You can also find linen made from the hemp plant (generally labeled “Hemp” rather than linen). Strong, plain or damask weaves. Comes in weights from handkerchief linen to very heavyweight. Machine wash, handwash or dry clean.
Uses: Blouses, dresses, sportswear, outerwear, home-decor.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Muslin

Contents: Cotton, cotton blends.
An inexpensive fabric that is usually used for making sample garments. Machine wash.
Uses: Sample garments, press cloths.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Organza

Contents: Silk, rayon, polyester.
A crisp, stable, plain-weave sheer fabric. Handwash or dry clean.
Uses: Linings, underlinings, blouses, dresses, evening and bridalwear, presscloths, curtains.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Pique

Contents: Cotton, cotton blends.
A light to mid-weight weave with a raised design, usually in a small geometric pattern. Has a tendency to shrink, so buy extra and pre-wash.
Machine washable.
Uses: Dresses, tops, kids’ clothes, sportswear, jackets, handbags.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Raw Silk

Contents: Silk
Rough weave, comes in a number of weights from lightweight silk noil to very heavyweight silk tussah. Many of the looser weaves ravel easily. Prices range from very inexpensive to $100+ per yard. Many dyed raw silks have a tendency to bleed their dyes, so wash separately or dry clean.
Uses: Sportswear, pants, jackets, tops, dresses, home-decor.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Satin

Contents: Silk, rayon, acetate, nylon, polyester, cotton, wool.
A tightly woven fabric with a lustrous, smooth face. Dry-clean only. Leaves marks if you remove stitching.
Uses: Bridal and evening wear, jackets, pants, shirts, home-decor.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to difficult, depending on fiber content.

Slinky Knit

Contents: Acetate/spandex.
A very stretchy knit that has gained popularity in recent years. Crepe-like texture, often with narrow ribs, and heavy, drapey characteristics make this a favorite of designers. Has a tendency to stretch if left on a hanger. Store garments folded. Wrinkle resistant. Machine washable. Tends to wander during cutting. Use very sharp shears. I don’t recommend rotary cutters with slinky.
Uses: Dresses, separates, eveningwear.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Stretch Velvet

Contents: Polyester, sometimes blended with spandex.
Knit fabric with a napped side. Sometimes referred to as velour. Finishes include plain, hammered or panne, and burnout (the pile is removed in a pre-set design). Good stretch, good recovery. Machine wash or dry clean.
Uses: Sportswear, dresses, eveningwear.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate

Suiting

Contents: Wool, cashmere, silk, rayon, polyester, blends. Medium to heavyweight fabrics used to make suits and jackets. Includes textures such as tweed, herringbone, boucle, flannel and worsted. Usually dry-clean only.
Uses: Suits, sportswear, dresses.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

Taffeta

Contents: Silk, polyester, rayon, nylon, acetate, blends. Smooth, plain-weave fabric with a crisp hand with a characteristic rustle. Delicate. Creases easily, and doesn’t wear well, especially at creased or stitched areas. Underline with organza or something similar for best results. Dry clean only. Leaves marks if you remove stitching.
Uses: Evening, bridal, dresses, sportswear.
Sewing Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Terrycloth

Contents: Cotton, rayon, blends. Pile fabric with uncut loops on one or both sides. Can be woven or knit. Also called towelling. Machine wash. Tends to shed at cut edges.                         Uses: Robes, beachwear, spa wraps, casual garments.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Tweed

Contents: Wool, silk, polyester, blends. A rough-textured fabric with surface slubs. Comes in a number of types, including herringbone, houndstooth and Donegal. Originally woven by the peoples who lived near the Tweed River between Scotland and England. Dry clean.
Uses: Suits, coats, sportswear, dresses, accessories.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Twill

Contents: Cotton, wool, silk, poly/blends.
Tightly woven fabric with a diagonal weave. Machine wash cottons. Dry clean silks or wools.
Uses: Pants (chinos are a twill weave, as is denim), jackets, dresses, home decor.
Sewing Difficulty: Easy

Velvet

Contents: Silk, rayon, polyester.
Luxurious fabric with a short pile on a woven background. Can be very lightweight to mid-weight. Silk velvet is usually about 75 percent rayon and 25 percent silk. Dry clean only. Requires special care when pressing or you risk pressing the nap down.
Uses: Formalwear, dresses, tops, pants, jackets.
Sewing Difficulty: Difficult

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The Best Fabric For Lining Dresses

*This post may contain affiliate links. Please see my disclosure to learn more.

Choosing the right lining not only helps the garment slide over your body easily but also helps in creating opacity. With so many options available in the market, it becomes quite difficult to choose the right fabric for the purpose of lining a dress.  

So what is the best fabric for lining dresses? The best fabric for lining dresses will vary by design and the other dress materials, but you should prioritize comparable and complementary fabric characteristics, breathability, and ease of fabric care and maintenance. Cotton fabric is a popular choice.

You should always consider what purpose a fabric is going to serve in your project before buying it. For example, if you are designing a summer dress, then you should probably go for a fabric that wouldn’t stick to your body on a hot summer day.

In this guide, you will learn how to pick the right lining fabric while designing dresses. We have listed various factors that you can look into before making a purchase decision. 

Best Fabric For Lining Dresses: What To Look For

When it comes to lining your new beautiful dress, it pays off to be picky about your lining fabric. That’s why we’ve put together a brief guide of what to look for so you can make the right decision for your next sewing project!  

Hint: It’s more than just finding the right color!

Whether you’re lining a long or short dress, here are some things to look for when choosing fabric for lining dresses:

Breathability 

The comfort factor is one of the most crucial aspects to look into while choosing a lining fabric for a dress.

If you are designing a summer dress, then a cotton or cotton-blend fabric would be the best option. Silk and satin tend to get too sticky and cling to the body during summers, but may feel just right in fall and winter.

Fabric Characteristics 

You should always study the characteristics of the kind of fabric that you are using before deciding what kind of lining you need to choose.

For instance, if you are using a stretchy fabric, then you will need a stretchy lining.

However, it is possible to choose a lining that is a little less stretchy or flowy than the main part of your dress. Sometimes the contrast is just nice, and sometimes using a lining with more shape and definition to it can make up for a purposely shapeless, organic dress. Just make sure there’s enough room for you in it!

If you want to know more about fabrics that drape well, we have a whole guide on it.

Also, if your main dress fabric is completely sheer, then you will want to go for a lining that is opaque. You can also make up for a pretty but not so soft dress fabric by choosing something softer to line your skin.

Easy to Care For

Ideally, your fabric should be machine washable and dryable. Durable fabrics like cotton and linen are also always great choices.

You can get away with materials which are more easily stained like silk, however, because the inner lining of your dress is unlikely to be seen.

The 5 Best Fabrics For Lining Dresses 

We did thorough research to find the best lining options available for dresses. Here are our top 5 picks:

We also have reviews of each one below so be sure to keep reading!

1.

Crafty Cuts Cotton Fabric 

Check Current Price On Amazon 

This two-yard fabric is perfect for use as a lining for the dress you are designing. It can also be used for home decorating projects, crafting, apparel, quilting, and more.

The fabric is made from 100% cotton and can be machine washed and dried. 

The fabric is bright white and comes without any flaws or marks. It is fairly thin and light in weight and hence it is suitable for use as a lining fabric. The cut is clean and you can iron it neatly without any damage.   

Key Features

  • Two-yards of cotton fabric 
  • Measures 72-inch by 43-inch 
  • Perfect for use in home decorating projects, crafting, apparel, quilting, and more
  • Made from 100% cotton 

Pros 

  • Can be machine washed and dried 
  • Is bright white in color
  • Is fairly thin and light in weight 
  • Comes with a clean cut 
  • Can be ironed without any damage

Cons

  • It is slightly rough texture wise, as this is a true cotton and not a synthetic blend.

2.

AK Trading Natural Muslin Fabric 

Check Current Price On Amazon  

Muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave and feels extremely soft to touch. It is designed in a wide range of weights ranging from sheer to coarse sheeting.

This natural muslin fabric is great for quilt backing, making a lightweight swaddle blanket, curtain dust ruffles, lining dresses, and much more.  

This natural unbleached muslin fabric is of medium weight and measures 63” in width. It comes with a smooth finish and feels soft to touch.

It has a light drape and remains stiff owing to the high percentage of cotton. You can machine wash this fabric and dry it on low settings. 

This fabric is suitable for making sheets, aprons, apparel, curtain, and other craft projects. It has a luxurious feel to it and is quite affordable. You can use it in a variety of projects.

Key Features

  • 100% cotton fabric and measures 63” wide 
  • Unbleached medium weight natural cotton 
  • The fabric has a smooth finish 
  • Feels soft to touch 

Pros 

  • Has natural light drape and stiffness 
  • Can be machine washed and dried on low settings 
  • Great for making curtains, sheets, apparel, quilting, and more 
  • Has a luxuriously rich feel

Cons 

  • It is slightly heavier for using as a lining in a dress but will impart a bit more structure to your design. Could be good for a cool-weather dress.

3.

Barcelonetta Cotton Lawn Fabric

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This cotton lawn fabric will make an excellent lining fabric for your dresses. You will receive 5 yards of fabric if you choose this product of dimensions 180”x58”.

This multipurpose fabric feels playful and has an airy feel with a shine. It will impart a bit more structure to your dress when compared to satin or rayon fabric. 

This fabric can be machine washed and dried on low settings. Handwashing and air drying will retain the beauty of this fabric for a long time.

All Barcelonetta fabrics are backed by Customer Satisfaction Guarantee by the sellers. If you don’t like the fabric, then you can return it within 30 days and claim a full refund.  

Key Features

  • Excellent lining fabric 
  • 5 yards of cotton lawn fabric 
  • Measures 180”x58” in dimension 
  • Feels playful and has an airy feel 
  • Has a slight shine 

Pros 

  • Imparts more structure to your dress when compared to rayon or satin fabric 
  • Can be machine washed and dried 
  • Air drying and handwashing retains the beauty of the fabric for a long time 
  • Backed with Customer Satisfaction Guarantee 

Cons 

  • It is slightly on the heavier side and suitable for designs which require a nice structure.

4.

MasterFAB Cotton Woven Poplin Fabric 

Check Current Price On Amazon 

This MasterFAB fabric is a natural high-quality cotton fabric. It is pure, breathable, and lightweight.

It has been made with eco-dye processing which ensures that the color remains steadfast even after multiple washes. The fabric feels silky to touch. 

This cotton woven poplin fabric is perfect for cutting into shapes, for DIY crafts, and for use as a lining fabric in dresses. It is easy to iron and is also safe for kids.

This soft, comfortable, and breathable fabric is perfect for use as a lining material while designing outfits. It is also easy to clean and dry. 

Key Features

  • Fabric made from high quality 100% combed cotton fabric 
  • Is eco-friendly, soft, and comfortable 
  • Breathable fabric, wicks, sweats, and dries really fast 
  • Designed especially for sewing  

Pros 

  • Can be easily cut into shapes for making costumes and decorations 
  • Easy to iron, clean and dry 
  • Can tolerate very hot water while cleaning  
  • Safe for kids 
  • Is thin and lightweight which makes it perfect for lining fabrics 

Cons 

  • It is slightly on the thinner side.

5.

Amore Lace & Fabrics Polyester Lining Fabric 

Check Current Price On Amazon 

This lining fabric has been made from 100% polyester fabric and measures 60” wide. You can choose from a wide range of color options while using it in designing outfits.

The quality is good and you receive adequate yardage when you opt for this lining fabric.  

It can also be used for designing face masks, as a quilting fabric, and more. This quality material is safe to use and will feel comfortable to wear.

It is breathable and skin-friendly. If you are afraid of fabric sticking to your skin during summers, then this fabric wouldn’t disappoint you. It is lightweight and airy which makes it suitable for use in summer dresses. 

The design is breathable and lightweight. You can trim the fabric and shape it as per your design requirements. The best thing about it is that it is washable and reusable. You can easily clean it in a machine and dry it on low settings. Normal handwashing and air drying will ensure that it lasts for a long time. 

Key Features

  • Made from 100% polyester 
  • Measures 60” wide 
  • Available in a wide range of colors 
  • Quality is good 
  • Adequate yardage offered 

Pros 

  • Can be used for designing face masks, quilting fabric, and more 
  • Feels comfortable to wear 
  • Breathable and skin-friendly 
  • Lightweight and perfect for use as a lining fabric for dresses 
  • Easy to trim the fabric and shape it 
  • Can be machine washed and dried on low settings

Cons  

  • Stains can be slightly difficult to remove from a polyester fabric.

Conclusion 

There are plenty of options available when it comes to choosing fabric for lining dresses. The kind of lining fabric you need to choose depends on the features of the main fabric that you are using, the colors, transparency, and several other factors. 

Usually, cotton is preferred for lining dresses. We conducted a thorough research to make it easier for you to find the right fabrics for your chic lining dresses. You can compare them and choose the most suitable for your sewing project.  

Up Next: How To Add Pockets To A Lined Skirt – Essential Guide

Linings & Underlinings – Do You Really Need Both? – Historical Sewing

c.1906 Bodice with full silk lining that has been hand whipped into place. The satin lining is also applied to the attached belt. The black silk fashion fabric has been underlined and the satin lining attached at the end of construction. From Jennifer’s personal collection.

I frequently get questions from our many readers about patterns that call for both an underlining/interlining fabric as well as a full lining fabric for a bodice and even skirts. They range from “So that makes three layers, right?” to “How in the world do I add all those layers of fabric?” and “Won’t all those lining layers make you hot?”

The answers are a bit more in depth than a quick response, so in this article let’s explore more about these various inner layers and if you really do need them all.

When doing a bit more research, I came across this excellent article by Sandra Betzina. Her approach is with modern sewing and fabrics, but the points expressed can carry over into our historical projects. (One of those being that “interlining” is an underlining fabric that adds warmth.)

1860s Original bodice with polished cotton underlining

 

Underlining

Underlining is a fabric that is mounted to the back of the fashion fabric to support it. Depending on what you choose, underlining can boost the sewing performance & ease of use of a particularly difficult fabric, and can aid in supporting the overall fit of the design. (A guide on appropriate underlining fabrics to use for costuming is listed at the end of this post.)

You know from reading the How to Flatline post that you really can’t sew 19th century clothing without adding an underlining layer. It does SOOO much to the structure that is period clothing. (please… don’t sew historical without it)

Underlining fabric can be thin like organza or heavy like twill. It all depends on what the fashion fabric and design calls for. Too much or too little underlining support can also affect the final garment’s appearance.

 

Lining

Lining in a garment is cut & sewn from the main garment pattern pieces and added at the end of construction. You will see exceptions on how the pieces are cut as the sewing industry in the 20th century developed separate, unfitted lining pieces. In my research, in the 1800s the linings, if put in at all, were cut from the same bodice or skirt pattern.

Linings are put in to cover the inner garment construction. They make for a nice finish on the inside. They also make it easy to put on & remove the garment over the undergarments.

 

You may have heard of “bag lining” a garment. This process involves sewing a full bodice using a lining-type fabric and cut from the same garment pattern.

To apply the bag lining: the lining garment is placed right sides together with the bodice; the neckline, center front or center back opening, and lower edges are sewn together leaving an opening somewhere. It is then turned right side out and the opening closed by hand or machine. The lining remains loose on the inside.

Another method to add a lining to a bodice is to make up the full lining, then press under the seam allowance on all edges and hand whip into the bodice. This is a period correct way to add a lining. Do Not Bag Line if you want to remain true to historical form. Whip it in instead.

For a loose skirt lining, the lining garment is made up same as the skirt and only attached at the waist. Sometimes it will be enclosed with the skirt hem.

 

1880s Original bodice showing the underlining flatlined to the black silk fashion fabric and left with all the seams exposed on the inside

Most, and I’ll guess 80% here (if not more), of the existing 19th C. bodices you find will have fashion fabric mounted to underlining pieces and nothing else. The ‘guts’ of the garment are fully exposed like the above 1880s bustle bodice. Separate linings were simply not used in this time.

One reason full linings were not used was to keep the seams exposed for easier alterations. People didn’t own dozens of clothing articles; they had to mend and make do with what they had. And those garments were frequently passed to others and re-fit and re-styled. Not having to deal with a lining made it a whole lot easier to do this.

 

So why do historical dress patterns call for adding a lining if it wasn’t frequently done? Well, I’d say it stems from wanting a nice, finished (to our modern eyes) inside. That, and the prevalent use of linings in the 20th century indicating a higher quality garment.

But that doesn’t mean that the Victorian Worth gowns you see with all the seams & boning exposed wasn’t high quality either. Right? Like this one:

1897 Maison Worth bodice showing the inside seams exposed – still very high-quality though! From Kerry Taylor Auctions

 

But when making your own Victorian reproduction do what you feel comfortable with. Yes, linings cover the messy innards, but they also add that extra layer – which means weight and heat (usually). If you are in the American South you probably don’t need the lining for warmth.

Even if you are in the European north, you might not need the lining either. If you need warmth, sandwich an interlining layer between the fashion fabric & underlining layer during the flatlining process.

 

The key to remember is that underlining fabrics are cut and mounted to each garment piece separately (aka. flatlining). The two-layer piece is then treated as one throughout construction.

The lining pieces are sewn as a full garment then set into the finished garment at the very end of construction.

The underlining is nearly always required; the lining completely optional.

 

Do find yourself putting in separate linings or do you just leave the insides exposed just like our ancestors did?

 

Underlining Fabric Suggestions:

Fashion Fabric:                                              Underlining:

 

Sheer/ lightweight                                         Silk organza, lightweight cotton, organdy, muslin, linen

 

Medium weight cottons/wools                 Muslin, calico, lightweight flannel for warmth, sturdy linen, cotton broadcloth, twill, poplin, coutil, flannel

 

Heavy weight cotton/wools                       Stiff muslin, twill, poplin, organdy

 

Velvet/Velveteen                                          Muslin, twill, poplin, coutil if a very structured garment

 

Puff Sleeves                                                      Cotton organdy, bridal net, silk or poly organza, nylon net

Keep your underlining fabrics light colored, e.g. white, off-white, ecru, tea-dyed, etc.  However, if you are sewing with black or dark fabrics where the underlining may show, use darker colors.

More on Flatlining:

How to Choose the Best Lining Fabric

If you’ve ever sewn a jacket, you’ve probably said, “Check out this lining!”

Sewing in an interesting lining adds a bit of zing to your handmade garment, but sometimes understated and classic is the way to go. Whatever your garment, a lining serves many purposes from creating opacity, finishing off the inside nicely or helping the garment glide over your body or other clothes.

So how do you choose the best lining fabric for your project? There are so many options in the fabric store that it can be difficult to decide.

Here are some of the best lining fabric options:

Photo via SunnyGal Studio

Rayon linings

Known as Bemberg rayon lining, this is a perfect choice for many different items ranging from outerwear to dresses, skirts or tailored trousers. Available in a huge range of colors, it is breathable, static-free, wears well, and adds that silky glide to your garments at a reasonable price. A few yards of Bemberg rayon lining in black, gray or navy are great options to keep in your sewing supply inventory.

Silk linings

Photo via Craftsy member Marianne C 

Many different types of silk fabric make fantastic choices for lining. The color choice is endless and the feel is always luxurious. Silk charmeuse is a particularly lovely indulgence and gives your garment that designer touch. China silk is a lightweight plain weave that is perfect for lightweight garments. Silk dupioni can add a bit of structure and support to a garment and looks great when quilted.

Printed linings

Photo via Craftsy member valeriabrev

Whether polyester or silk, printed linings are a fun option to use. Check the aisle containing polyester silky prints at the fabric store. While these polys are sold as fashion fabric, some are a perfect weight and economical option to use in place of silk charmeuse.

The above skirt with a printed lining was made in the Craftsy class Design & Sew an A-Line Skirt.

Lightweight cottons

Lightweight cotton fabrics have many names: voile, batiste or lawn. You will find some to be ideal for a summer dress. They are all slightly different in weight and opacity and make perfect choices for children’s clothes, tops, dress bodices, or any garment where you want a breathable, easily-laundered fabric. Be sure to pre-shrink as you would with any cotton fabric.

Stretch linings

Knit garments are comfortable and easy to wear and sew, but choosing a lining can be a mystery. Here’s my tip for finding the best lining fabric for knits: look in the dancewear section. Everything from skating costumes to dancewear is usually lined and that part of the fabric store holds the key.

Tricot knits are great for dresses or tops plus they provide a built-in slip effect. Nylon or nylon/spandex blends also work well. These knit linings seem to be available mostly in neutral shades such as ivory, beige, white, or black. Try a bit of layering of your fabric and the lining options to see which shade works best.

Satin linings

Satin linings can be found in different fibers from rayon to silk. A crepe back satin lining has a good weight and is perfect for adding a bit more substance to outerwear. If the polar vortex is returning to your part of the world consider using one with flannel backing for an extra bit of warmth. In addition to the basic neutrals, satins come in lots of pastel or jewel tones to add a pop of color to your warm winter coat.

Lining fabrics

I’d love to know who uses what lining fabrics. For some reason, all dark lining fabrics (black, languid blue) fade very much. In the process of wearing, white blouses suffer from them very much, and do not wash off.What to do? I tried different fabrics, from ours to imported ones, the result is the same.

Good yield – swaddled nylon lining production. It has now appeared, although there are not many colors, but it does not fade for sure! Although you have to be careful with the iron
There is also a domestic jacquard lining, earlier it was used instead of satin on blouses and children’s dresses (very dense jacquard satin)
But the imported linings have also disappointed me lately! The quality is nowhere worse, it spills out of the seam faster than you can make a line!

Probably I was lucky, but I never met fading linings, and even for a blouse.
Try washing the lining before sewing and rinsing with vinegar. At the same time, it will sit down a little, then there will be fewer problems.

I often prefer lining fabrics from Mogilev

Use German-made lining fabrics or lighter lining colors, now contrast

is in vogue

I really love our lining fabrics, they are natural! twill, of course, is worse in quality, but it is also possible. But imported synthetic ones are just unpleasant to work with and feel disgusting on the body. And I really do not like it when these fabrics (they are cheap) are used by our market industry. For example, I recently got a coat with the words “from a Moscow house of models” (by the way, a wonderful woolen fabric and with a fashionable pattern), but the lining is the same horror.You probably know that all branded items – lining must also have a corporate logo. But our industry has not mastered thin lining fabrics – and German linings of remarkable quality, natural and even stretch came to the rescue! Those. you buy suiting fabric with elastane and lining with elastane too! Hooray!

My lining has never faded either. Although I used everything – twill, synthetics, silk.
When buying, I don’t pay attention to the manufacturer – to find a lining that matches at least in color is already happiness.
Although now I will think about it too.

Hello. Usually I myself buy all the related materials, including the lining fabric, for my customers. I bypass cheap synthetics, now there is such a rich selection of fabric lining. non-woven lining. And I hear about dyeing seriously for the first time …

And I have never heard about lining with elastane and have not seen what they look like? and in what price range are they?

actually talk about prices, they are different everywhere.I buy at 3-5 dollars per meter, the quality is the same German, and the price depends on the supplier. True, the color scheme is not as diverse as that of the lining without elastane. But I have never come across a discrepancy …

is clear, thank you.

Irina, I have never had a lining in my life … whose is it who makes it?

I used the Mogilev lining. She dyes not only all clothes, but where the seams are (for example, shoulder seams and where the cuffs are sewn)

Once the lining is dyed, it means that no dye fixer was used in its production at the final stage. Since this procedure is quite expensive, the manufacturer saved on this. This is usually done in China, which is why prices are low there.

This situation was also smart. I needed a green lining for trousers, I stopped at a choice, a manufacturer of Belarus, and when I steamed with an iron, I was horrified, the cover on the ironer was green.

Lining, purpose and composition – viscose, polyester, acetate, silk

Lining is the last and very important touch in the creation of a coat, jacket, jacket.

The main purpose of the lining fabric is to mask the seamy structure of the product and to protect the main material of the product from wear and tear. In addition, the lining absorbs some of the stress created during the wearing of the product, and in the places where the product fits snugly to the body, it prevents loss of shape.

The resistance of the liner to external influences is largely dependent on the weave and the fiber composition .

Types of lining by composition

  • On high quality suits, as a rule, viscose lining is used.Viscose fabrics or their combinations with acetate are well suited for summer clothes, as they have high hygroscopic properties.
  • The specific combination of viscose and acetate allows for a lining such as changjang. It is an expensive lining fabric with an iridescent effect.
  • Acetate lining fabrics are inferior to viscose counterparts. They are very often sweat stains and are not as durable as viscose liners.
  • A cheap lining option that looks pretty simple in the garment is a fabric made of viscose and polyester.
  • In inexpensive suits and coats, polyester lining is often used. There are also polyester lining options. The lack of good hygroscopicity of polyester makes it a good option for demi-season clothing.
  • In expensive versions of suits, a lining of natural silk is used.Of course, this is an expensive fabric option that is not practical, as the silk is often sweat stained. In summer jackets made of fine fabrics, the problem of sweat stains is solved by partially using the lining on the back or only on the shelves.

Currently, we do not deal with lining fabrics, but we will be glad if you familiarize yourself with the range of fabrics in our wholesale warehouse in St. Petersburg.

material for coats, as they say, types of lining

Lining fabric is always needed for sewing garments.It is not for nothing that the chicness of the product and the handwriting of the couturier are determined from the inside out.

Purpose of pad

The lining in the product covers the wrong side, so that the product looks solid and complete from the inside, provides a good fit, serves as an additional layer for opacity, to preserve body heat.

Variety

Lining fabric requirement

First of all, it is good sliding, so that the thing dresses well and fits well on the owner. The fabric is characterized by its resistance to color and composition to abrasion and perspiration.Lining fabric with low shrinkage during washing is what you need for sewing. The lining of the product should be light so as not to make the weight of the garment heavier.

Color variety

Lining fabrics

The lining of the product is made of silk, semi-silk materials, from cotton and synthetic fabrics, from woolen fabrics, from knitwear, sometimes artificial and natural fur is used in the lining.

Reliability and quality

Taffeta, quilted fabric, mesh, viscose, rayon, satin, flannel, chiffon, satin, polyester, velvet, cupro are most often used in the lining.

  • Taffetta gets its name from taffeta, a glossy silk fabric. Taffetta is a lightweight, glossy, elastic fabric with a metallic sheen. It contains 100% synthetic fibers – nylon or polyester.

Note! Most often, taffeta is used as a lining fabric, but you can sew the whole product. Many are sure that this material is universal for sports, for recreation, for everyday wear.

Taffetta is often used as a decorative fabric for flags, draperies, garlands.Popular as packaging. High-density taffeta fabric is used to sew raincoats, jackets, sweatpants, tracksuits and other outerwear.

Taffeta
  • Quilted fabric is a stitched material according to a pattern. The result is a semi-convex texture with rhombuses, polygons, squares, floral and abstract patterns. This is a lightweight material such as polyester with a padding such as sintepon or holofiber, it is the filler that provides volume for the lining fabric. In this case, a quilted lining is used for warmth.Thanks to the polyester, this lining glides on easily. Thanks to the stitching, it does not get lost in lumps, but is evenly fixed together with the material.

In addition to lining, quilted fabric is used for sewing outerwear, bedspreads, pillows, blankets.

Quilted fabric
  • Mesh is the most delicate lining material. The mesh is an airy, transparent, lightweight, but tough fabric. The mesh is produced from lycra, polyester, viscose.

The mesh is characterized by good air permeability, lightness, preservation of the appearance of the product, retention of heat inside, ease of sewing and maintenance.

Mesh

As a lining, the net is used for sewing tracksuits, theatrical costumes, wedding dresses. Any stage costumes owe their shape to the net. Light summer and beach clothes are made from it, used in decor, in decorating gifts, often make details on clothes and on bags and backpacks.

  • Viscose is made from wood pulp. This is an artificially created, but natural material, as it is not produced using chemistry. To obtain viscose material, wood fibers are dissolved in alkali, passed through special “sieves”, obtaining bleached fibers.

Note! Dresses, blouses, tunics and turtlenecks are sewn from viscose. They make washcloths from viscose, even make car tires. The advantages of a viscose lining are that it is pleasant to the body, glides gently, it is not hot in the heat, absorbs moisture, warms in the cold, does not electrify, does not cause allergies.

Viscose

Viscose is used to sew summer and demi-season clothes, suits for sports and leisure, curtains. Viscose is a moisture-absorbing material that wears perfectly in summer clothes.Keeps you warm. The disadvantages of the viscose lining are that it cannot be twisted when squeezing, the matter does not like high temperatures, stains form on it.

  • Artificial silk Acetate silk and viscose. In modern industries, preference is given to blended fabrics, all under the same name – artificial silk.

Acetate silk is electrified, accumulates a charge and “shoots”. Synthetic silk is always slippery and cold. Of the advantages of artificial silk – a beautiful appearance, good air permeability and moisture absorption, the fabric does not wrinkle, does not require special care.

Artificial silk

Artificial silk is used for sewing clothes, dresses, blouses. Used for the manufacture of bedroom sets and curtains.

  • Atlas is a material widely used in sewing. The satin lining is always elegant and even chic.

Satin is used to make underwear, bed linen, used in production as upholstery, sew household textiles for the home – curtains, pillows, bedspreads. Home and outdoor clothes are sewn.

Note! Atlas does not accumulate static electricity, holds its shape well, is hygienic, dense and smooth, has a beautiful appearance, is sufficiently wear-resistant and durable.

Atlas

Atlas is often used as a lining for fur coats, coats, jackets, for men and women suits, for gloves, for handbags and wallets, for curtains.

  • Flannel – Used as a lining fabric for comfort and warmth. Home clothes, suits for various purposes, shirts, bedding sets are sewn from it.Flannel is pleasant to the touch, soft and slightly loose. The advantage of flannel is considered its ability to warm and store heat. Flannel serves for a long time, it is strong enough, absorbs moisture, perfectly breathable, hypoallergenic.

Flannel has its drawbacks – if the water is too hot, the base shrinks a lot. With prolonged use, lumps appear, the fabric rolls. Flannel fabric wrinkles easily, dries for a long time.

Flannel

For lining, flannel is widely used in children’s clothing, in bedding, in underwear for babies, and in the sewing of trousers and jackets for adults.Flannel from washing only becomes softer, so it is one of the most comfortable materials for a warm lining.

  • Chiffon An unexpected lining material, used to be seen in festive clothes, nevertheless, chiffon is used as a lining for festive and summer clothes. It is an airy, translucent, light material. It is very pleasant for the skin, does not wrinkle, and is breathable.

Chiffon is used as a lining in evening and summer dresses, sundresses, skirts, blouses, when sewing curtains and curtains.Due to its transparency, chiffon requires careful sewing, carelessly finished seams can tear the fabric

Chiffon

There are many varieties of chiffon. As a lining, it is irreplaceable in summer and festive clothes.

  • Satin is made from cotton and silk fibers. Shiny fabric, very dense.

Satin is used as a fabric for lining, but mostly blouses, dresses, shirts, dressing gowns are sewn, shoes are covered with satin.

Satin

Satin is a rather heavy and smooth material.The fabric does not wrinkle, does not abrade, retains warmth. Satin for lining is a rather expensive pleasure, therefore it is used in sewing from valuable materials, as a lining fabric for coats, in natural fur coats, in expensive curtains, as additions to skirts, inserts on jackets, and in finishing suits.

Satin lining is presentable, glides well. The fabric is easy to clean and does not require ironing.

  • Polyester Synthetic knit with a wool look.The advantages of this material are that it is affordable, crumples a little, is very strong, resistant to light and heat. Antistatic agent. The disadvantages of a knitted lining are that it does not allow air to pass through and is unpleasant in contact with the skin. Therefore, outer winter clothing is sewn from it – down jackets, warm jackets, coats. They are used in haberdashery – they sew bags, gloves, wallets. They are used in sewing curtains and interior textiles. Polyester is elastic and durable.
Polyester
  • Velvet luxury material.It is used as a lining when sewing beautiful evening dresses, under transparent fabrics. Velvet has one very interesting historical property – it never goes out of style. It is elastic, pleasant to the body, has a fleecy soft surface and shimmers with an enigmatic shine.
  • Cupro viscose lining with cotton blend. This fabric resembles silk. The advantages of cupro are smoothness, resistance to light and fading, strength, hygroscopicity, softness, and breathability.

Note! As a lining for classic coats and winter jackets, formal suits and traditional jackets in the classic men’s line.

Cuprofibre is used in the manufacture of upholstery. It is considered a very expensive fabric made of viscose lining materials.

Cupro

How to choose fabric for lining

It all depends on the purpose for which the lining is purchased and in what quality the thing will look.If it is presentation wear or evening dress, then cheap types of lining will simplify the thing. Therefore, in such cases, it is better not to skimp and make decent clothes using satin, satin or velvet.

Important! If the lining fabric is selected for a coat, it is better that it warms and glides well, like quilted fabric or viscose lining.

If a summer thing requires lining, then here you should pay attention to chiffon, mesh or satin. There are many options for using lining fabric, so there is plenty to choose from.

Sew from lining

Many things can be sewn from lining. Clothes and underwear, home textiles, outerwear for all seasons, beautiful and evening clothes, some fabrics are even used to upholster furniture and use for sewing curtains.

In addition, lining fabric is always interesting for couturiers and creative people to experiment and create new forms of clothing.

The lining material can be different. It is chosen depending on the main fabric and on the product.

Tips for the use of underlays and auxiliary materials

Backing (lining, stabilizer) is a non-woven textile, non-stretching material necessary for creating high-quality embroidery, which reduces deformation of the fabric during sewing.

The stabilizing material will not perform its basic function if the fabric is too loose. Test this by pressing down on the fabric with your finger.Loosely worn fabric is crumpled, folds are formed on it.

The stabilizer must be selected based on:

  • Fabric properties. Thick fabrics: jeans, canvas need limited use of lining, or do not need it at all. On the contrary, “flimsy” fabrics – sweaters, knitwear require a rigid lining. At the end of the work, the remnants of the lining are removed.
  • Densities and sizes of stitches. The higher the density and the smaller the stitch size, the denser the backing should be.
  • Special features of the embroidery program

Types of substrates

Typically, several types of substrates are used in production. Small production may well be limited to two types: tear-off and cut-off. For large-scale production, self-adhesive tape may be required. Experts warn against using non-intended materials as a substrate. The defect rate when using them is incommensurate with the negligible benefit that you get when you buy it.

  • Cut-off pad

It is a dense, non-tearing material. After the end of the embroidery, the excess of such a lining is cut off from the product (hence the name). The cut lining comes in a variety of thicknesses, but because it is stronger than others, it is used primarily for knitted fabrics.

Most pads are made from nonwovens, but manufacturers often offer transparent cut pads. This is convenient when the embroidery material is thin fabrics.The transparent lining will not show through after trimming.

Removing the cut-off lining requires care as a hole can be easily cut through the product. Here are two quick tips for removing such a stabilizer.

  • Remove the lining by turning the garment inside out and holding by the edge of the lining so that the garment runs freely underneath.
  • With scissors, you do not need to cut, but “slide” along the lining along the edge (do not touch the scheme itself) until the bottom falls off.

Used for the following fabric types:

  • Loose knitted fabrics
  • Thin knitted fabrics
  • Jersey
  • Golf Jerseys
  • Fine Silk
  • Acrylic and wool sweaters
  • Lycra Spandex Swimwear
  • Tear-off liner.

The excess can be torn off after sewing. The disadvantage of tear-off linings is that with an increase in the number of stitches, the stability of the surface decreases. Of course, because there are so many holes in the lining, it will begin to “fall away” from the product in pieces. Therefore, such a lining is more flexible, the fabric with it “walks” and moves more. Often, two or even three layers of tear-off liners are used to increase the strength of the fabric.

Tear-off lining is used with fairly stable fabrics – fine woven fabrics, jeans.Most often, a tear-off lining is used for embroidery on towels, as well as on products with a reverse side, which you also want to make neat. Also, the tear-off lining is good for thin light-colored fabrics, such as linen, thin cotton fabrics, where the edges of the lining can show through the fabric. Used for the following fabric types:

  • Waffle fabrics
  • Felt
  • Cotton \ Polyester
  • Plush
  • Thick cotton bed sheet
  • Nylon, satin
  • Leather, vinyl

Tear-off backing is recommended for embroidery on baseball caps.This makes the letters look clearer and more separated, maintaining a uniform thread tension, which allows you to move from embroidery on a flat surface to embroidery on a rounded surface without changing the set parameters of the machine. For a rotating (swivel) hoop, for a more secure attachment of the baseball cap, it is advisable to use a material folded in half.

For embroidery on dark clothes (black leather jackets) use a black backing. This will prevent white pellets

  • Adhesive

Rigid tear-off backing with adhesive applied to one side.Usually this type of lining is of three types:

  • Tear-off paper backing. One side of the backing is an adhesive surface that is protected by paper. The paper is removed and the glue layer is exposed.
  • Hot melt coated. The adhesive side of the liner becomes active after heating with the iron. The hot-melt stabilizer is also used as a coating on finished embroidery with an uneven rough surface (for example, when embroidering with metallized thread) so that the inner surface of the embroidery becomes smooth and soft.Before using any kind of hot-melt material, you must make sure that the hot iron will not harm the fabric itself.
  • With a water-activated adhesive coating. The adhesive side becomes active after wetting. This type of lining adheres perfectly to the fabric without leaving any visible marks on it.

Adhesive backings are ideal for use on the most fragile fabrics as they bond securely to the fabric. Perhaps the most common use of an adhesive backing is when embroidering without a hoop on items that are difficult to put on – bags, ties, emblems, etc.n. The fabric is not tucked into the hoop at all; instead, the adhesive backing is tucked in with the adhesive layer up. Then the fabric is pressed against the adhesive backing. After finishing the work, the excess lining can be easily removed.

  • Heat-breakable substrate

This type of stabilizer is very often used as an overlay to prevent stitches from falling through on loose and textured fabrics, and also as a backing when other stabilizers are unacceptable.For example, on delicate fabrics for which washing is contraindicated. The heat-destructible backing is removed by drawing it over with a hot iron.

When placing an order to the designer, be sure to mention what kind of backing you plan to use so that the specialist can correctly calculate the density and size of the stitches.

Types of fabrics | Blogremaking blog about sewing


Almost all fabrics are created using a loom, which creates an interweaving of warp and weft threads.For the manufacture of any fabric, you need some kind of raw material. Depending on its origin, all fabrics can be divided into three main groups:
1. Natural fabrics (linen, cotton, silk, wool) – they are made from natural raw materials of animal or vegetable origin.
2. Artificial (acetate, viscose, fabrics with lurex) – obtained from natural materials of organic (protein, cellulose) and inorganic origin (glass, metal).
3. Synthetic fabrics (polyvinyl, polyester, polyamide fabrics) – are created from artificially obtained polymer threads.
But the final characteristics and the final appearance of a particular fabric depends not only on what raw materials were used in its manufacture. In many ways, the special properties of the fabric are determined by the type of weaving.

Openwork – a kind of fabric with a through ornament. It can be made from various types of yarn (silk, cotton, woolen), by hand or on a loom.


Alpaca – the fabric is made from the very valuable wool of the alpaca animals of the same name living in Peru and Bolivia.

Angora – the fabric is made from wool of angora rabbits and goats.

Atlas is a very shiny and smooth fabric, created from silk or synthetic threads using a special type of weaving of threads – satin, or it is also called satin.

Acetate is a fabric of artificial origin obtained as a result of certain processing of natural raw materials. Unlike synthetic fabrics, which are obtained by chemical synthesis, acetate is based on cellulose acetate.It looks like silk, and the surface is just as shiny.

Velvet – the main distinguishing feature of the fabric is the pile. It can be in different lengths, matte or shiny, but it is always smooth. Velvet is made from cotton, silk and synthetic fibers.

Barege – light silk, woolen or paper fabric made using gauze weaving technique.

Batiste – thin, translucent linen or cotton plain weave fabric, produced from the finest twisted yarn.

Belset is a slightly fleecy microfibre fabric imitating velor leather or super-fine suede. It feels like peach skin, as it is often called. Mainly made of polyester (microfiber).

Bengalin – lightweight natural stretch fabric, which contains a high content of natural cotton fibers and a small percentage of elastane, has increased thermal conductivity and pleasant coolness.

Brokat is a type of silk fabric, usually heavy and dense, a distinctive feature of which is a pattern – embroidered or woven with gold or silver threads.Sometimes colored threads are added.

Boucle – has an uneven surface, because it is made from a special yarn – shaped or crepe twist. This yarn is also called shaped. Due to the presence of varying degrees of thickening along its length, a special uneven surface of the boucle fabric is obtained.

Coarse calico – made of cotton or linen raw materials. Differs in density and strength, it is used mainly for the manufacture of bed linen.

Corduroy is a type of cotton fabric characterized by the presence on the front surface of the pile in the form of stripes running parallel to each other, which are called scars.

Velsoft – knitted polyester fabric with a soft brushed side, mainly used for sewing home clothes (dressing gowns, pajamas), as well as for bed linen, blankets, etc. It is also called microfiber.

Velor – this is how one word is called a whole group of fabrics with soft pile on their front surface.Velor can be cotton, silk, linen, woolen, synthetic, and even leather.

Viscose – this is the name of an artificial fiber obtained from cellulose, and a fabric made on its basis. Pulp is obtained primarily from wood.

Vichy – two-tone fabric in a contrasting rectangular check, made of cotton or mixed fibers.

Voile is a transparent plain weave fabric, most often made of cotton.

Gabardine is a fabric that can be woolen, semi-woolen, cotton, silk, synthetic by the origin of raw materials. In its manufacture, a particularly dense type of weaving of fibers is used. On the front surface of the gabardine, you can see pronounced diagonal scars. Gabardine is very dense, but at the same time quite light. Possesses important properties in its own way – good wear resistance and some water resistance.

Gas is a transparent, very thin and weightless fabric.The peculiarity of its manufacture lies in the fact that a certain space is preserved between the warp and weft threads. The type of this weave is sometimes called gas weave. The gas can be of cotton and silk origin. They also emit three types of gas, depending on the method of weaving: twill, satin and linen.

Guipure – similar to lace, because it is also a kind of lace. Previously, guipure was made on bobbins, now it is made using a machine method.Guipure is made from very thin threads (thinner than in openwork), which can be silk, cotton, with the addition of synthetic fibers or lurex.

Glenchek – fabric with a pattern of superimposed cells. Cells may vary in color or match.

Tapestry – variegated diaper fabric in muted colors with blurred transitions from one color to another. The tapestry is a dense jacquard fabric, while the base is most often linen, but the weave threads can be natural (wool, silk), and synthetic, or they can be of mixed composition.

Devore – in the manufacture of fabric, chemical etching (burning) of a part of the fibers of the fabric is used, due to which patterns appear on it. Devore fabric is quite thin and transparent.

Denim – coarse, stiff, dense twill weave fabric. Denim is distinguished by high density, strength, good wear resistance. Denim can have a wide variety of characteristics, be dense or thin, plain or patterned.

Jersey – a type of knitted fabric, in the manufacture of which cotton, wool or synthetic fibers are used, weaved in a buttonhole.It is soft, smooth, stretches well, does not wrinkle much, does not require difficult maintenance, falls beautifully when draped.

Drap – woolen, rarely semi-woolen fabric. The drape is both dense and soft, quite warm and durable. On its front surface there is a so-called felt-like covering, due to which the interweaving of the warp and weft fibers is not visible on the fabric, but the surface of the fabric remains quite smooth. The drape can also be double-faced, then both sides hide the weave.

Duvetin – the so-called false velvet – a satin weave fabric made of cotton or viscose with thickened weft threads. After dyeing, the fabric is combed and becomes rough.

Duchess – very shiny high quality satin made of silk or man-made fibers.

Jacquard is the collective name for all fabrics, in the pattern of which various types of weaving of threads alternate. Using different warp and weft yarns (eg matte and shiny, light and dark) enhances this effect.

Kapitoniy is a warmed, three-layer knitted fabric with a diamond stitch effect. This knitwear is dense, bulky and soft to the touch.

Cashmere is a woolen or semi-woolen fabric made from the wool of the Himalayan goat (also called cashmere). Cashmere is a fairly soft and lightweight fabric that has ribs on its surface that appear due to the diagonal weave.

Cloquet is a two-layer crepe fabric with a “bubble” surface.During the finishing process, the bottom layer of fabric is pulled together and the top layer forms irregular bulges. Cloquet cannot be ironed.

Crepe is the collective name for fabrics with a grainy, knotty surface, acquired through crepe twisting of yarn, weaving of threads or embossing on the fabric.

Crepe de Chine is a silk fabric obtained using plain weave. Distinctive features of crepe de Chine are matte and low-gloss surface and fine grain on the front surface.

Crepe Georgette is another silk fabric. It is more shiny and transparent than crepe de Chine. The characteristic features of crepe georgette are elasticity, some rigidity and flowability of the edges.

Crepe satin is a fabric that combines two different qualities: matt and gloss due to the fact that it is two-sided. One side looks more like atlas, the other like crepe de Chine. Both the one and the other side can be front in the product.

Crepe-chiffon – again silk fabric, has a matte surface (like all crepe fabrics).Crepe chiffon differs from classic chiffon in a denser structure, but it has a similar transparency.

Crinkle, crash – wrinkled fabrics. The folds are often wrinkled in the lobar direction and are more or less pronounced.

Lace – there are many types of lace: embroidered (Plauen), woven (machine), braided on bobbins (Valenciennes) or crocheted (trimmed).

Cupro is a rayon-like artificial viscose fabric with copper-ammonia cellulose fibers.The fabric is made of wood and cotton, has a beautiful silky sheen, absorbs moisture well and allows air to pass through.

Lavable is a wash-resistant lightweight crepe-like flowing fabric, with a smooth surface, made of silk or man-made fibers.

Lycra is a synthetic type of fabric made from elastane fibers, fabrics with a high content of it are called “spandex”. Lycra stretches well, gives elasticity to products, the ability to maintain shape and fit the body tightly.

Lame – a shiny, iridescent fabric with metallic and other shiny effect threads.

Linen is one of the most natural fabrics. It is made from threads that are twisted from dried flax stalks. Linen fabric has a characteristic embossed surface, has little stretch, is durable, is good for air permeability and absorbs water.

Lyocell is a natural fiber that is produced from eucalyptus wood in an environmentally friendly way.The fabric is pleasant to the touch, durable, hygienic and environmentally friendly, more elastic and hygroscopic than cotton.

Loden – Medium to heavy woolen fabrics, very dense thanks to the felting and very hard wearing. Fuzzy loden is a fabric covered with a long pile adjoining to one side, woolen loden is a fabric with a matte lint-free surface, reminiscent of felt. Loden is often confused with boiled wool: knitwear felted on one side, optically reminiscent of Loden. It differs from loden in a looser structure and, of course, it is not so heavy and dense.

Oil – knitted fabric based on viscose – 70% and 30% of the composition – polyester. Knitted fabric, oil elastic fabric with a shiny or matte surface.

Matlasse – double fabric with an embossed quilted pattern.

Terry cloth – a voluminous soft fabric made from looped yarns.

Wet silk is a silk fabric that, after washing and rubbing, has acquired a slightly fluffy “peach” surface.Wet silk is not washed, but dry cleaned.

Modal is an improved viscose fiber made from cellulose. The strength of modal is higher than that of viscose, and in terms of hygroscopicity it is 1.5 times superior to cotton. Unlike cotton, modal fabric has little shrinkage, remains soft after washing due to the fact that the smooth surface of the modal does not allow lime or detergent to remain on the fabric, making it hard to the touch.

Moire – rep weave fabric with fine warp threads.It has a wavy pattern that is applied when embossing (calendering).

Muslin – light and loose plain weave fabric, mainly cotton or woolen.

Organza – transparent rigid fabric of plain weave.

Panama – dyed cotton or woolen fabric, soft to the touch, shiny. It is produced in double or triple weave, as a result of which alternating rectangles of the main and weft overlaps are formed on the surface of the fabric, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

Panne velvet is a very shiny velvet fabric with pressed pile.

Brocade – dense patterned silk fabric, woven with gold and silver threads.

Pepita – fabric in a small light-dark check.

Percale is a thin but dense cotton fabric in plain weave. Silky, soft, reminiscent of cambric. It is mainly used for sewing bed linen, ideal for printing and dyeing with textile inks.

Pique – thick silk or cotton fabric with a surface covered with fine ribs. It is produced by a complex weave (pique) – on the front side with a characteristic texture and pattern in the form of longitudinal lines.

Poplin is a rep weave fabric that is formed by very thin warp threads and thicker weft threads.

Reps – tissue with pronounced scars, most often transverse.

Rayon is a viscose fabric with silk properties.This material is also called acetate silk, rayon or rayon silk – rayon.

Twill is a rough cotton fabric with a diagonal effect.

Satin is a very smooth, soft falling fabric with a shiny surface.

Searsaker is a fabric in which the entire surface or individual stripes resemble tree bark. In a real fabric with this name, the effect is achieved due to a special weaving of threads, in a “fake seersucker” – due to the finishing (chemical treatment) of the fabric.

Cloth is a plain weave woolen fabric, which, thanks to felting and the final fleece, acquires a felt-like surface.

Knitted fabric – machine knitted fabric. Knitted fabric knitted by knitting machines resembles fabric. Only instead of weaving threads, loops are intertwined in it. There are two main types of loops – front and back. Their various combinations create many different knitwear patterns.

Taffeta is a fabric made of natural silk or chemical fibers.The rigidity is acquired during the finishing process (chemical treatment), and therefore the taffeta wrinkles a lot.

Taffeta is a material made of polyester fiber with a plain weave of yarns of various densities. For its amazing lightness, excellent drapery, pleasant texture and shine, taffeta is often called polyester silk.

Tweed is a fabric made of coarse knotted woolen yarn with a hand-finished look. The warp and weft often come in different colors.

Twill is a general name for fabrics of thin twill or diagonal weave: tweed, gabardine, paper twill, twill. Twill can be made from wool (tweed), cotton or silk. Twill – the material is not smooth: the fibers are arranged in such a way that they form diagonal stripes on the canvas.

Herringbone fabric – twill weave fabric with pronounced diagonally directed stripes.

Ribbed knit – Stretch fabric with alternating knit and purl loops.

Tulle is a sheer mesh fabric, often with a honeycomb structure.

Shaped – fabric with a small pattern, which is formed by changing the type of weave. Most often with a matte-shiny effect.

Tulle – lightweight mesh fabric of medium firmness, voile made of polyester thread. Translucent, matte or glossy. Unlike tulle, tulle is always smooth and uniform.

Phil-a-fil – fabric with a stepped fine pattern, which is formed by alternating light and dark warp and weft threads.

Flannel is a collective name for fabrics made of cotton, viscose or wool, with one or two-sided fleece.

Fleece is a synthetic polyester fabric that does not absorb moisture, but conducts it. In addition, products made from this material are lightweight, durable and perfectly keep warm, due to the large amount of air contained in the so-called “air chambers”. The production of fleece consists in the fact that the finished synthetic fabric is laid out on a flat surface and with the help of special rollers with small sharp hooks, the continuity of the surface layer is disrupted.The microfilaments produced in this way form the surface that determines the unique insulating properties of the fleece.

Cotton fabric is a fabric made from plant fibers that form in the capsules of the cotton plant. Cotton is considered a natural fiber in the global textile industry.

Chinz is a polished cotton fabric with a waxed surface. Thanks to impregnation, it does not get dirty or wetted with water.

Shangzhan is a fabric with multi-colored warp and weft threads that create an iridescent effect.

Silk is a natural fabric that does not belong to plant or animal origin. It is obtained from the cocoon of a silkworm caterpillar. But there are also artificial and synthetic types of silk fabrics. All of them are distinguished by their unique gloss, smoothness and durability.

Woolen fabric – wool is a group of natural textile fabrics, for the production of which the hair of various animals is used.Wool fabric was and remains one of the most expensive materials with exceptional properties.

Chiffon is a very thin, delicate flowing fabric made of crepe twist yarn, consisting of silk or synthetic fibers. Chiffon has an uneven surface to the touch, reminiscent of “sandy”.

5 types of lining fabric for coats

How to choose a coat lining?

The lining of any product performs not only an aesthetic function, but also a host of other, no less useful and necessary properties.For example, it is the lining that maintains the original shape of a coat or other garment. In addition, the lining fabric protects the base fabric from wetting, abrasion and other unwanted influences.

5 types of lining fabrics for coats

Today there are many different textile materials that are suitable for a particular product. A tough, sturdy and glide fabric is essential for a coat. And not every type of lining fabric has these characteristics.Let’s take a look at the most popular ones.

At present, the atlas is widely used for sewing clothes and household textiles. Along with this, satin is considered the best among lining fabrics, since it is distinguished by its strength, smoothness and dazzling beauty. Most often, satin is used for sewing lining on jackets, coats and raincoats. But these fabrics often leave traces of sweat, which are sometimes very difficult to remove.

More expensive material, which is considered to be the densest and heaviest among other lining fabrics.The front side of satin looks like satin. The shiny, sturdy surface and unrivaled durability allow satin to be used as a lining for bags and fur coats. Satin is great for the production of curtains and other household textiles, but the high price per roll of fabric, in most cases, does not justify this.

Fully synthetic fabric, which is quite often used as a lining for outerwear. Durable, but not hygroscopic material is not suitable for hot seasons and therefore is used for sewing warm jackets and coats.Another advantage of polyester is its relatively low price. It is she who affects the wide range of applications of polyester: from haberdashery to household textiles.

  • Quilted fabric

Another durable lining fabric that is ideal for coats and other outerwear. The material obtains such properties due to a special method of simultaneous weaving of 4 threads of different fibers. The middle price category of quilted fabric provides it with a less wide range of applications: household textiles and upholstery fabrics.

Probably the softest material on this list. Non-slip and inexpensive viscose, depending on the content of synthetic or natural impurities, is ideal for lining jackets and coats. Among other things, viscose is a delicate, pleasant to the touch material, which, moreover, is not charged with static electricity, which is characteristic of polyester and synthetic satin.

To top it off, I would like to note that when choosing a lining fabric, it is necessary to pay attention to the thickness of the fabric – it should be less dense than the main material of the product, as well as have a smooth surface for easy sliding when in contact with other things.Unlike other fabrics, the composition of the lining must contain synthetic impurities, since they provide the fabric with the necessary strength.

How to overcast the edges of the lining

It is probably no secret to anyone that the most difficult thing in clothing repair is to cope with the lining fabric. Thin, slippery and practically not wrinkled – it makes even the most inveterate craftsmen suffer, not to mention ordinary needlewomen. However, in practice, there are small tricks with which it will not be so difficult to process the edges of the lining.

Method one – adhesive fabric. All you need to do is glue cloth, a lining and an iron. It should be remembered that for this method, the best option would be an adhesive fabric such as a cobweb, that is, it is an almost transparent strip, which is a randomly applied glue. This strip must be cut along the entire length of the lining and precisely joined at the edges. After that, carefully tucking both materials along the width of the glue strip, you need to hold it at the place of bending with a hot iron.As soon as the ironing point has cooled down, the process of folding the edge of the lining will be completed.

Method two – “goat” treatment. Here you only need the lining itself, threads and a sewing machine. In this case, the edges of the lining fabric must be carefully trimmed and the zigzag mode must be selected on the sewing machine. After – walk evenly along the entire length of the lining fabric. For greater reliability and strength, the lining fabric can be folded several times before sewing.This option is an alternative to edge processing on overlock machines, where the edge is edged in different ways using a three- or four-thread stitch. You can also use a manual goat stitch as a substitute, but in this case the process can take much longer than required.

Method three – edge trimming with scissors. In this case, you only need special “serrated” scissors and a lining. An important condition for processing the edge in this way is that the lining should be more or less dense.You can use a small piece of lining in an inconspicuous place as a test case. If, after processing, the edge of the lining fabric does not crumble, then in this way you can safely edge the rest of the length. As an addition to this method, you can also consider the option with edge firing. That is, after cutting the lining with “serrated” scissors, it can be scorched a little on fire or gas. Here you need to be very careful, as the thin lining fabric can easily catch fire.

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