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- Seal Pro – Spray Adhesive, Caulk & Insulation Accessories
Service Partners carries Seal Pro products for gutter and insulation applications, including latex caulk for residential gutters, staples spray adhesive and more.
Seal Pro USA 600
Seal Pro USA 600 is a 50-year painter’s latex caulk that is used for residential applications. Used by professional painters and homeowners alike for caulking gaps along walls and baseboards, sealing air leaks or prepping a room for paint. Silicone has been added for extra durability and adhesion. Plus, it is fast drying, easy to apply and clean-up.
Seal Pro Spray Adhesive
Seal Pro Spray Adhesive is a dependable, heavy duty web spray adhesive that creates a strong, fast tack and bonds a wide variety of surfaces and materials together. It can be used in any construction type and a variety of applications. It is primarily used for bonding insulation to a variety of surfaces. It is also popularly used in bonding foam and poly sheeting.
Seal Pro Staples
Service Partners carries Seal Pro staples for holding many different types of faced insulation products tightly in place, in order to eliminate gaps and fish mouths. Seal Pro staples are useful for a variety of insulation applications and are available in different sizes, styles and boxed amounts to fit your needs. Seal Pro staples include Seal Pro A11/T50 ¼”, 5/16” and ⅜”, Seal Pro Power Crown ¼”, 5/16” and ⅜”, Seal Pro Rapid 19 ¼”, Seal Pro Duo-fast 5/16” and ¼”.
Seal Pro Caulk
A 35-year siliconized latex caulk that is mildew resistant and paintable. It is formulated to provide long lasting, flexible, weatherproof seals between most common building materials including wood, masonry, concrete, brick, drywall, metal and glass surfaces.
Seal Pro Gutter Sealant
Seal Pro Gutter Sealant is specially designed for gutters, diverting water and providing an advanced seal. Use Seal Pro gutter sealant to fill small joints and seams. Gutter sealant can be used with a variety of substrates. It is weather and UV resistant, remains flexible, and has minimal shrinkage.
Seal Pro Can Foam Guns
Seal Pro Can Foam Guns is a family of applicator tools compatible with most brands of can foam. Both professional contractors and DIYers can use can foam dispensing guns. With a dispensing gun, you’ll get higher yield and greater efficiency when working with can foam.
Seal Pro Insulation Fabric
Seal Pro Insulation Fabric is a 45 GSM fabric designed to hold blown insulation in place. Insulation fabric is perfect for use with blown-in insulation in walls and ceilings as well as in basements, crawl spaces and garages. You can also use insulation fabric as a protective layer during construction and renovations.
Seal Pro Weather-Proofing
Service Partners carries Seal Pro weather-proofing essentials, including door sweeps, weather stripping and thresholds. Use Seal Pro weather-proofing products to stop drafts and air leaks that decrease the energy efficiency of a structure. Weather stripping can be used around doors and windows.
Incision Care: Steri-Strips, Staples & Stitches
What is an incision?
An incision is a cut through the skin made during surgery. Another name for an incision is a surgical wound. The size, location, and number of incisions depend on the type of surgery.
What is a dressing and how often should dressings be changed?
A dressing is a sterile bandage that protects incisions from bacteria and keeps it clean and dry. Dressings should be changed daily or according to your doctor’s orders.
How are incision(s) closed?
Incisions are held closed using stitches, staples, tissue glue, or a special kind of adhesive tape called Steri-Strips™. A sterile dressing covers the incision(s).
How do I care for my incisions after surgery?
Incisions must be kept clean and dry. Proper care of incisions promotes healing, reduces scarring, and reduces the risk of an infection. Follow your doctor’s instructions for incision care very carefully.Some general tips about caring for incisions include:
- Always wash your hands before and after touching your incisions.
- Always inspect your incisions and wounds every day for signs of infection.
- Bleeding: If the incisions start to bleed, cover them with a clean tissue or towel and apply direct and constant pressure to the incisions for at least 5 minutes. If bleeding stops, remove the bloody dressing, clean the incisions (see instructions below), and apply a fresh dressing. If bleeding does not stop after a few minutes, keep applying direct constant pressure to the incisions and call your doctor or go to the emergency room.
- Clothing: Avoid wearing tight clothes that rub on the incisions.
- Itching: Incisions may feel itchy as they heal; this is normal. Don’t scratch them. If the itchiness gets worse instead of better, call your doctor. This may be a sign of infection or that stitches are too tight.
- Staples and Stitches: You may wash or shower 24 hours after surgery unless you are directed otherwise by your healthcare professional. Cleanse the area with mild soap and water and gently pat dry with a clean cloth. Your staples will be removed when the wound is healed. Some stitches dissolve over time; others need to be removed by your doctor. Dissolvable stitches often are held in place by strips of tape (Steri-Strips).
- Steri-Strips: You may wash or shower with Steri-Strips in place. Cleanse the area with mild soap and water and gently pat dry with a clean towel or cloth. Do not pull, tug, or rub Steri-Strips. The Steri-Strips will fall off on their own within 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, gently remove any remaining Steri-Strips.
- Tissue glue: The glue should be kept dry and the incisions should be kept out of direct sunlight. The glue will dry out and fall off within 5 to 10 days.
What supplies are needed to change a dressing?
The basic supplies needed for changing a dressing are:
- Gauze pads.
- Disposable medical gloves.
- Surgical tape.
- Plastic bag (for disposing of old dressing, tape, etc.).
What steps are involved in changing a dressing?
The steps begin with preparing the area where the dressing will be changed. The next steps are to remove the old dressing, cleanse and rinse the incision, and apply the new dressing.
Step 1: How do I prepare the area for changing the dressing?
First, you or the caregiver who is changing the dressing needs a clean surface to work on. Pets should be moved to a different room, and the caregiver should remove any jewelry. The surface where the supplies will be laid out should be washed with soap and water and covered with a clean cloth or paper towel.
Step 2. How do I remove the old dressing?
First, you’ll prepare your new dressing. Open the gauze package(s) without touching the gauze. Next, cut new tape strips. Set aside.
To remove the old dressing:
- Wash your hands by wetting them down, adding soap, and washing for 30 seconds (about the time it takes to sing “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star”). Clean under your nails.
- Rinse your hands well and dry with a clean towel.
- Put on medical gloves and loosen the tape holding the dressing in place.
- Remove the dressing. Unless the doctor has said to remove the dressing dry, you can wet it if it sticks to the wound to help remove it. Throw the old dressing and dirty medical gloves into a plastic bag.
How do I cleanse and rinse the incision?
First, place a towel under the wound to catch the drainage. Wash your hands with soap and water. Dry with a clean towel and put on new medical gloves.
To cleanse the incision:
- Make mild soapy water or a salt water solution.
- Soak a piece of gauze or soft cloth in the soapy water or saline solution and gently pat or wipe the incision and skin around it with the damp cloth.
- Use the damp cloth to remove dried blood and drainage from the skin around the incision.
- Unless otherwise specified by the doctor, do not use skin cleansers, alcohol, peroxide, iodine, or antibacterial soap. These can damage the tissue and slow healing.
To rinse the incision:
- Fill a syringe with salt water or soapy water, whichever your doctor recommends.
- Hold the syringe 1 to 6 inches away from the incision and gently squeeze the bulb to spray the solution into the incision. This rinsing will wash away any remaining blood or drainage.
- Pat the incision dry using a soft, dry cloth, or piece of gauze.
Always inspect your incisions for signs of infection. (See question, “what are the signs of a possible infection”)
Step 4. How do I apply the new dressing?
- If your surgeon prescribed an antibiotic ointment, apply a very thin layer of the ointment to the incision.
- Hold a clean, sterile gauze pad by a corner and place it over the incisions. (This is the gauze that you opened and set aside in step 2.)
- Tape all four sides of the gauze pad. (This is the tape that you already cut and set aside in step 2.)
- Put all trash in the plastic bag, remove your gloves and add them to the trash bag.
- Seal plastic bag and throw it away.
- Wash your hands.
- Wash any soiled laundry separately. Ask your doctor if you should add bleach during the wash cycle.
What can I do to reduce the risk of infection?
- Always wash your hands before and after touching your incisions.
- Follow your doctor’s instructions about keeping the incisions and dressing dry.
- Follow your doctor’s instructions about changing the dressing.
- Exposing incisions to sunlight for at least 3 months.
- Removing the tape strips; picking at staples, tissue glue, or stitches.
- Keeping the incisions wet (make sure the incision sites have been patted dry after washing).
- Using scented soap, lotion or powder, alcohol, iodine, or peroxide around the incisions.
Risks / Benefits
What are the signs of a possible infection in an incision?
- A wound that has green or yellow drainage
- A bad odor from the incision.
- Opening of the incision line – it gets deeper, longer, or wider.
- Redness that goes beyond the basic edge of the incision – site should show signs of improvement and not getting redder.
- Warmth, hardness, around the incision.
- Fever (greater than 101 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.4 degrees Celsius), sweating, or chills.
- Swings in blood sugar levels in a diabetic patient.
What are the general risk factors for developing an infection?
Patients at higher risk are those who have:
- A history of smoking.
- Excess weight.
- Poor nutrition.
- Weak immune system (for example, a patient on chemotherapy or an elderly patient).
- Recent emergency surgery or a long surgical procedure.
Recovery and Outlook
What are the limits on activity while an incision is healing?
Staying active improves healing by improving blood flow. After some types of surgery, the doctor may recommend avoiding lifting, pulling, straining, exercise, or sports for a month after surgery. Following these instructions will prevent opening of the incision line and promote healing.
How long does it take for an incision to heal?
Good incision care can help ensure that it heals well and an infection doesn’t develop. In most cases, a surgical incision heals in about two weeks. More complex surgical incisions will take longer to heal. Patients with other medical conditions or taking certain medications may need a little extra time to heal.
When to Call the Doctor
When is it important to call the doctor?
Call the doctor if you experience:
- Bleeding that does not stop with pressure.
- If there is any sign of infection (see question, “what are the signs of a possible infection”).
- If you have questions or confusion about incision care instructions.
DIY Bench Seat Cushion—Upholster A Cushion Without Sewing!
This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Arrow Fastener. All opinions are 100% mine.
Learn how to make a DIY bench cushion to fit any bench, window seat, or outdoor bench without any sewing—all you need is a staple gun!
We have been using an IKEA Kallax cubby storage unit turned on its side as a window seat and reading bench in the kids’ room, and it works great! But even with a bunch of pillows and blankets, it’s not super comfortable to sit for long periods of time. So I made a simple DIY bench cushion to add to the top of the window seat, and I did it all without any sewing. You just need a piece of wood, bench foam, batting, fabric, and a staple gun, and it will come together in just over an hour!
We actually have another Kallax unit in the kids’ room that we use for toy storage. That one has fabric bins in it rather than just open shelving, but it’s another great use for this piece of furniture. We also use IKEA Trofast bins as dressers, which the girls love because they can easily open and close the drawers to get at their clothes.
And now that this window seat is upholstered, the kids’ room is feeling pretty functional and organized these days. The kids love curling up with a good book, a pillow, and a blanket anytime they want!
How To Make A No-Sew Bench Cushion
Making a bench cushion is actually pretty easy, even if you’ve never upholstered something yourself before. The great thing about this DIY bench cushion is that you make it completely separately from the bench, then put the cushion on top of the bench at the end. This means you can make your cushion any size you want, so it will fit on any bench, window seat, storage bench, or any other long seat you already have. If you use outdoor fabric, you can even use this no-sew bench cushion for outdoor benches too!
The most important thing about DIY upholstery is having a good staple gun; being able to easily drive staples (without the gun jamming) makes a world of difference. I used an Arrow T50 R.E.D. staple gun and it made quick work of securing the fabric.
The amount of the materials you’ll need depends on the size of your bench. The amounts listed above are how much I bought for this project. The top of our IKEA Kallax bench is 16 1/2″ x 57 7/8″ so I had the plywood cut to exactly that size at Home Depot before I bought it. Everything else I cut down to size myself and had a little left over.
Start by cutting everything to the correct size.
I had my plywood cut to the correct size in Home Depot before I took it home, but you can cut yours down to size with a table saw or circular saw if you want to do it yourself.
Lay the plywood on top of the bench foam, lining up two sides at a corner. Mark the edges of the other two sides on the foam using a pen or marker.
Cut the foam down to size using a large serrated knife (like a bread knife, or an electric knife if you have one.) Don’t worry if the edges of the foam aren’t perfectly smooth; the batting will cover that up and smooth it out later.
Put the foam down on top of the plywood, then lay your batting over the foam. Trim the batting so that it overhangs the bottom of the plywood by a few inches on all four sides.
Next, attach all the pieces to make the DIY cushion.
Set all of the pieces aside and put down a drop cloth for this next part to protect your work area from overspray from the spray adhesive.
Put the plywood on the drop cloth, and coat the entire surface of the plywood with spray adhesive. Position the foam on top of the plywood so that all the edges are lined up, then gently press the foam onto the plywood for a few seconds until the adhesive dries.
The next step is to attach the batting. Batting helps minimize friction between the fabric and the foam, so you want it to be able to move a bit, but you can’t leave it totally unsecured or it will bunch up over time.
Lay the batting over the foam. Lift the batting up on one side and spray the side edge (the 3″ tall part) of the foam with spray adhesive. Press the batting gently against the side of the foam.
Repeat for all four sides. For the corners, press the sides smoothly all the way to the corner, leaving the extra batting puckering out at the point.
Trim the batting flush with the bottom of the plywood. I just ran one blade of my scissors along the wood and trimmed everything flush.
When you get to the corners, pull the puckered corner fabric straight out, away from the corner, then point your scissors straight down and cut off the excess batting flush with the corner.
Smooth the batting at the corners so that you don’t end up with wrinkles at your corners.
Now it’s time to actually upholster the DIY cushion by adding fabric.
Lay your fabric out on top of the cushion and line it up so that any patterns are straight and square to the cushion. Trim away the extra fabric, leaving 3-5″ of fabric overhanging the bottom of the plywood on all four sides.
Carefully turn the entire cushion over, including the fabric, so that the bottom of the plywood is facing up and the fabric is pretty side down. Double-check that your fabric pattern is still square to the cushion before you start stapling!
Starting in the middle of one straight edge (don’t start at a corner!) gently pull the fabric up and around to the back of the cushion and staple it to the plywood. Your staples should be 1″ to 2″ from the edge of the plywood; don’t worry if that leaves a bunch of loose fabric behind the staple, you will trim that off later. Be sure to pull the fabric straight back (perpendicular to the edge of the plywood) so that you don’t end up with weird pulls or pleats in your fabric as you go.
Continue gently pulling and stapling the fabric around all four straight sides, stopping about 4″ from the corners to leave room for pleating the corners.
Use a lot of staples! There shouldn’t be more than a few millimeters between staples so that the tension is evenly spread out. Remember, staples are really inexpensive, so use a bunch! If there are large gaps between your staples, the fabric can pull and tear at those points when someone sits down on the cushion.
I also like to vary how far my staples are from the edge of the plywood so they aren’t all exactly lined up with each other. This helps spread out the tension across more of the fabric so it isn’t all pulling against one single line of staples.
I used an Arrow T50 R.E.D. staple gun which made this part of the project a breeze—it was fast and powerful and got the staples in nice and flat every time. And unlike other staple guns I’ve used before, it was really easy to squeeze the trigger. Even my 5 year old could do it, and she was so excited to help Mommy with a project!
How to upholster the corners of your cushion.
I like to upholster corners using a three-step process: I pull the center straight back and staple it once to hold it in place, then I fold one side in and staple it once, then fold the other side and staple it once. Once all three parts are tacked in place, I can go in and fuss with the fabric and add more staples.
I find this makes really pretty “wrapped” corners that are simple yet elegant, and it’s way easier than making a bunch of pleats and keeping them nice, neat, and even…
Here’s how to “wrap” the corners of your cushion:
Start in the center of one corner and pull the loose fabric straight up and over the corner of the plywood at a 45-degree angle. Make sure you don’t have any weird pleats or wrinkles in the fabric at the corner of the cushion, then add one staple to hold that piece in place. The sharp corner of the plywood will push into the fabric a bit, but that’s ok—there isn’t much tension on this section of the corner, and the next two steps will cover it up anyway.
Starting on one side, grab the fabric “wing” that is sticking out and fold it up towards the plywood like you’re wrapping a present. You’re aiming for a nice straight pleat that runs up and down the corner of the foam. It helps to put one finger on the corner of the foam (the corner that’s at the bottom of the cushion currently) while you fold the “wing” up.
Just like wrapping a present, there should be a 45-degree angle fold on the “inside” of the wing and a folded “pleat” that runs up and down the corner. You can adjust the pleat by sliding the fabric against itself. Sliding the fabric changes both the “inside” angle and the angle of the pleat at the same time. So just play around with it until you are happy with how the pleat looks.
Staple it once, close to the corner, to hold the pleat in place while you work on the other side.
You’ll do the exact same thing with the fabric on the other side of the corner—fold the wing up towards the plywood, like you’re wrapping a present. Create an “inside” 45-degree angle fold and a vertical pleat. Slide the fabric against itself to adjust the pleat until both pleats look good.
Staple it once near the corner to hold the second pleat in place.
You’ll need to add more staples to really secure the corner, but first, trim away excess fabric so that your corner doesn’t get too bulky. Be sure to leave 1-2″ of fabric to staple into.
Once the extra fabric is gone, add a bunch more staples to really hold it all in place. If there are any bits of fabric that stick out, fold them in on themselves and staple them down, keeping it all as flat as possible.
Repeat for the remaining three corners, then go around the entire back of the cushion and double-check that there aren’t any giant gaps in your staples.
How to remove staples easily, if needed
A couple of times the staples hit a knot in the plywood and bent as they were going in. If you find you have bent staples, or just put a staple in the wrong place, you can easily remove staples with a staple puller.
Slowly slide the narrow tip of the staple puller under the staple you want to remove, keeping the nose of the tool flat against the plywood as you go. Gently wiggle the staple puller from side to side as you push it under the staple, and the staple will pop right up after a few seconds!
You could also use a flathead screwdriver or other blunt, flat tool to remove staples, but it’s better to use a staple puller because it won’t scrape or tear the fabric as it slides under the staples.
Install the bench seat cushion
If you don’t want to permanently attach the cushion to your bench, just turn the cushion over and set it on top of your bench, and you’re done!
Because I know my kids won’t be super gentle with this window seat, I decided to secure the cushion on the bench with a couple of screws.
Put the cushion on your bench, then drive a few screws up into the plywood from the underside of the bench to secure the cushion at all four corners. Make sure your screws are long enough to go all the way through your bench and at least a 1/4″ into the plywood. You don’t want them to be so long that they go all the way through the plywood and into the foam or you might feel the tips of the screws poking through the cushion. (Though the 3″ foam is thick enough that you probably won’t notice if the screws stick up a tiny bit…)
My cushion sat mostly flat on our reading nook bench, but I wanted to add a bit of trim to make it pretty and cover up the small gap between the cushion and bench. This project is already a no-sew bench cushion, so I figured I would continue the trend and use hot glue to attach the trim rather than sewing it on.
Working in sections, I ran a thin bead of hot glue around the very bottom of the sides of the cushion and pressed a pink fringe trim into the hot glue for a few seconds until it dried.
The trim is optional, but I think it gives the cushion a clean, “finished” look, and it definitely helps cover up any weird bumps at the corners!
The whole project took me just over an hour and I’m thrilled with the results!
We moved the rocker back against the window as well, and now there are a bunch of great seating options if you want to read and look out the window.
If you want to do your own DIY upholstery project, I definitely recommend Arrow Fastener’s T50 R.E.D. staple gun. Plus they have a full line of manual, electric, and cordless staple guns, rivet tools, glue guns, nail guns, grommets, hammer tackers, and other tools and accessories for any other project where you want to fasten one thing to another. Whether you’re a pro or a weekend-DIYer, their products are easy to use and deliver quality results. Learn more about Arrow Fastener and their products (and where to buy them) on their website, plus find a bunch of other #MadewithArrow projects and tutorials on their site as well.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size staples do you use for upholstery?
Staples actually have three different “size” measurements: length, width (or crown), and gauge. But don’t worry, it isn’t actually complicated! The width of the staple mostly depends on what will fit in your staple gun. Most staple guns that you would use for home DIY projects (whether manual or electric) use medium crown staples, which are 3/8″ wide. Or, if they are called a “finish nailer”, “finish stapler”, or “air stapler”, those usually use narrow crown staples, which are 1/4″ wide. As for gauge, most staples that you can buy for these types of staple guns are considered “heavy-duty staples” and they have a standard gauge. Unless you have a light-duty stapler (more like a paper stapler) or you specifically need really thin/fine staples for something, you don’t need to worry about the gauge.
So, check your staple gun to figure out which staple width it uses, but after that, all you really need to worry about is staple length (which is the next FAQ!)
What length staples do I need for upholstery?
The staple length you need for an upholstery project (or any project, really) depends on the thickness of the material you are stapling, and what kind of base material you are stapling into. Obviously, the thicker the material, the longer the staple, but the base material matters also because you want the staple to go all the way into the base without any parts sticking up. This means that for harder base materials like oak, MDF, and plywood, you should use shorter staples, and for softer base materials like pine, cedar, or foam, you can use longer staples.
The general rule of thumb is that you want at least 3/16″ of the staple to go all the way into the wood. So figure out how thick your material is and add about 3/16″. For upholstery projects, I almost always use 5/16″ staples. If you’re not sure about the length you need, buy the length you think you need AND the next shortest size. If the staple stands away from the surface (i.e. the crown of the staple isn’t fully flat against your fabric/plywood) when you try to staple something, the staples are too long—go down a size and your staples should go in nice and flat!
Can I just wrap the batting around to the bottom of the plywood and staple it along with the fabric?
Yes and no. Yes, that is another option for attaching batting when doing an upholstery project. No, you can’t staple the batting and the fabric at the same time. If you would prefer to wrap and staple the batting, follow the instructions in the “Attaching the fabric” section to attach the batting, then follow them a second time to attach the fabric. If you try to attach both at the same you can end up with weird, uneven wrinkles and bunches in both the batting and the fabric.
I generally prefer the spray adhesive method because I find it simpler, and I don’t usually need the very bottom edge of the plywood to be cushioned for any reason. Plus, if you plan to permanently attach the cushion to the bench with screws, it helps not to have any extra bulk underneath the plywood. But I do use the stapling method when upholstering something with thinner foam that doesn’t have “sides” to adhere to, or for projects where the bottom edges of the cushion are visible and I want them rounded and pretty.
What kind of foam should I use? Foam is so expensive!
The foam you use for your DIY bench cushion is mostly a matter of personal preference. Most upholstery foam comes in low, medium, and high densities, but contrary to popular belief, the density doesn’t actually affect how “cushy” the foam is; it’s more about the durability of the foam. All three feel about the same when you sit on them, but low-density foam will “go flat” and lose its spring a lot faster than high-density foam (think like a year of daily use vs. over 10 years of daily use.)
But, of course, high-density foam is more expensive than low or medium density foam. I prefer to use medium density foam because I find it strikes the right balance between being a quality foam and not being outrageously expensive.
If you’re on a really tight budget and don’t mind the durability trade-off, I’ve heard of people using low-density foam mattress toppers or egg crate foam inside their cushions.
How thick should my bench foam be?
Foam thickness is mostly a matter of personal preference, but in general, you don’t want to go any thinner than 2″. It also depends on how you intend to use your bench cushion; if it’s a window seat for lounging, maybe go with 4″ or 5″, or if it’s a kitchen table bench, 2″ or 3″ should be fine. I chose 3″ foam because it’s a good balance of cushy and soft feeling, and not outrageously expensive.
Do I really need batting when making a bench cushion?
Batting serves a couple of different purposes. First, it minimizes the friction between the fabric and the foam so that the cushion is more comfortable and doesn’t “stick” as you sit on it. Batting also adds “fluffiness” to your cushion by smoothing and rounding out the harsh edges of the foam and filling in any gaps and wrinkles in the corners of your cushion. That said, you don’t NEED batting when making a bench cushion, but I strongly recommend using it!
Can I use a glue gun instead of a staple gun for upholstery?
No, not really. A glue gun won’t hold the fabric firmly enough and it will start slipping around on the cushion and coming loose after a few uses.
But doesn’t the fabric rip and tear around the staples?
Nope, it won’t if you staple it correctly! When upholstering, be sure to always pull the fabric straight back, perpendicular to the edge, to avoid uneven stress on one side of the staple. Be sure your staples aren’t at an angle either! Your staple gun should also be perpendicular to the edge so that the staples themselves are parallel to the edge.
Also, be sure you pull your fabric evenly all the way around; don’t pull tighter on the corners or anywhere else or it can cause puckering in the fabric and extra stress near the staples. And finally, make sure you use enough staples; large gaps between staples can cause puckering around the edges of your cushion and extra stress on the fabric near the staples.
Wouldn’t the bench cushion slide around if I just set it on top? Don’t the staples scratch the bench underneath?
It depends on the size of your bench cushion and where you’re planning to put the bench, but usually, the friction of the fabric on the bench keeps it from moving around too much. If you’re putting it in your kid’s room like I did, I’d recommend permanently attaching it, just in case!
If you leave it unattached, the fabric usually provides enough padding to keep the staples from rubbing. But if you’re worried about the staples scratching the bench (or about the entire cushion slipping) grab a non-slip drawer liner, or a non-slip rug pad and put it under the cushion to help keep it in place.
How do you clean the cushion?
I usually just wipe up messes and spills as they happen; I use a cloth and a little bit of water if necessary, or I use a spot treatment cleaner for anything that might stain. If your cushion is in a high-use area, you can also spray it with Scotchgard before you start using it to help make it a little more spill-proof.
Where did you get that fabric?
I actually got it on Amazon—I’ve been pretty happy with their selection of upholstery fabrics by the yard. This fabric is by Premier Prints; it’s called Bloom and the color is Shore Life. Here’s a link to it on Amazon: Premier Prints Bloom Slub Canvas Shore Life
Did you wash your fabric first?
Nope, for upholstery fabrics, I usually don’t.
What if my bench is really long and I can’t get a piece of plywood that is long enough?
If you have a long bench, you can make multiple bench cushions and just line them up next to each other. It can definitely be hard to find plywood and foam long enough in a single piece, so don’t be afraid to make 2 or 3 separate cushions. But don’t try to make one cushion using two pieces of plywood next to each other and wrapping one piece of fabric around the whole thing, that’s just asking for disaster!
DIY Bench Seat Cushion—Upholster A Cushion Without Sewing!
Learn how to make a no-sew bench cushion that fits any bench, window seat, or outdoor bench. You can make this DIY cushion with just a staple gun!
Active Time 1 hr 15 mins
Total Time 1 hr 15 mins
Yield 1 bench cushion
Cut everything to size
Cut a piece of 1/2″ plywood to the exact same size as the top of your bench.
Lay your piece of plywood on top of your bench foam, lining it up on two sides at a corner. Use a pen or marker to mark the other two sides.
Cut the foam along the marks so that the foam is the same size as the plywood.
Lay the foam on top of the plywood, and lay the batting over the foam. Cut the batting to size, leaving a few inches overhanging the bottom of the plywood on all four sides.
Build the cushion
With a drop cloth underneath the plywood, coat the entire top surface of the plywood with spray adhesive. Place the 3″ bench foam on top of the plywood, line up all the edges, and gently press down to attach the foam to the plywood.
Lay the batting on top of the foam and center it so the overhang is even on all sides. Use spray adhesive to attach the batting to the foam ONLY on the 3″ tall sides of the foam; do not use spray adhesive on the top surface of the foam. Press along the sides of the foam all the way to the corners to ensure the batting is firmly attached, leaving a little pucker of batting at each corner.
Trim the batting along each side so that it is flush with the bottom of the plywood.
To trim the batting at the corners, smooth the batting straight along the sides until you reach a corner, then pull the pucker of extra batting straight out and away from the cushion. Cut straight down, through the batting, right at the corner of the foam.
Smooth the batting along the sides of the foam and into the corners so the corners aren’t wrinkled.
Attach the fabric
Lay your upholstery fabric on top of the batting and line it up so that any patterns are straight on the cushion. Cut the fabric to size, leaving 3-5″ of overhang past the bottom of the plywood.
Turn the entire cushion over (including the fabric) so that the plywood side is facing up. Gently pull the upholstery fabric straight back towards the center of the plywood (perpendicular to the edge of the plywood), then staple it in place using a staple gun.
Continue stapling the fabric to the bottom of the cushion on all four sides, making sure there aren’t any large gaps between staples. Stop about 4″ from the corners to leave room for pleating the fabric at the corners.
Upholster the corners of the cushion
To upholster the corners, find the middle of the loose fabric at the corner and pull it up and over the corner of the plywood at a 45-degree angle. Staple the fabric once to hold it in place.
Starting on one side of the corner, fold the “wing” of loose fabric up onto the plywood and form a vertical pleat running up and down the corner (like wrapping a present). Staple the fabric once right near the corner to hold it in place.
Repeat the same process with the fabric on the other side, pleating it so that it too has a straight crease running vertically along the corner. Staple once to hold it in place.
Cut away excess fabric to remove some of the bulk so your cushion can lay flat on your bench. Leave 1″ to 2″.
Once the excess fabric is gone, add a bunch more staples to hold everything in place. If any fabric sticks out, fold it onto the back of the plywood (as flat as possible) and staple it. Repeat for the other three corners, then go back around all four edges of the cushion and add staples to fill in any gaps.
How to remove staples, if needed
If you need to remove a staple, carefully slide the front of a staple puller under the staple, gently wiggling it side to side, until the staple pops up.
Install the cushion
Turn the cushion over and position it on top of your bench. Drive screws from underneath the bench up into the plywood of the cushion to secure the cushion to the bench.
Using a hot glue gun, attach the upholstery trim to the very bottom of the cushion to hide the gap between the cushion and bench.
If you prefer to wrap the batting all the way around the bottom edge of the plywood and staple it rather than using spray adhesive, you can totally do that! Just follow the instructions in the “Attach the fabric” section when attaching the batting, then repeat those instructions a second time to attach the fabric. Don’t try to do the fabric and batting at the same time.
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Covering Slate with Felt
The first and most used method of attaching cloth to the slate is stapling. However, your slate
must have a wood backing for this method. If your slate is backed, there will be ¾” lining of wood
directly underneath the slate. If not, gluing the cloth to your slate is the next best option. Either method
will work well. We will demonstrate the gluing method, but stapling is essentially the same.
First, stretch your cloth lengthwise down the table first. Staple the cloth on the end by
starting in the middle and working your way to the outside. We usually put staples about 2 to 4″
apart. Go to the other end and pull the cloth, starting in the middle, as hard as you can. It is
important to get the cloth as tight as possible. Once your cloth is fastened in the center, you can
start working your way to the edge. Pull the cloth with equal stretch on each pull. Consistency is
important here. An inconsistent stretch at this point may cause the balls to wander or do unexpected
maneuvers when playing–definitely an undesirable trait of a pool table.
Second, you can now start on the longer sides. Start in the middle and work your way to the end. Be careful not
to pull to tight on the first side. This will leave your other side too short. The most important
things to remember when stretching cloth is tightness and consistency in the stretch. If you are
using glue, use the same method as above. Spray the adhesive (3M Super 77) about five inches in from
the edge of the table. Only do one end at a time. Also, spray the same edge of the cloth. Two edges
with glue go together much better than one. Wait for the glue to get tacky, about 30 seconds, then
press the cloth to the slate. Go to the other end and do the same thing.
When the cloth is secure, use a razor blade to cut holes in the cloth where the rail bolts will come up to the rail. There are
three holes between each pocket. Use your finger from the bottom up to find the right hole. Never try
and find the hole from the top down. Some tables have more than three holes on the top. A cut in the
wrong place may ruin the cloth for the whole table. Once the holes are done, the pockets are ready
to be cut.
Images click to enlarge
Shop Supplies > Studs And Staples – Johnson Supply Company
H&S MFG Welding Stud (2.2mm)
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H&S MFG Welding Stud (2.6mm)
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The 1002 Heavy Weight Studs are designed for heavy pulling applications.
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H&S MFG Body Side Molding Rivets 1003
Item#: HSM 1003
1003 Body Side Molding Rivets: The 1003 Body Side Molding Rivets are OEM style rivets designed to attach the body side molding clips. These rivets return the repaired panel to original OEM design and quality.
Your Price: $17.99
H&S MFG Replacement Tip 1004
Item#: HSM 1004
Stud welding tip (fits all UNI-SPOTTER Stud Welding guns)
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H&S MFG Body Side Molding Tip 1005
Item#: HSM 1005
1005 Molding Rivet Welding Tip: The 1005 Molding Rivet Tip is specially designed to hold 1003 Molding Rivets during welding. The tip has a built-in magnet that holds the rivet firmly for easy placement during welding. Designed with a Morse Taper for a positive fit with easy removal.
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MAGNETIC EXTEND A TIP
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H&S MFG Uni-Stud Pulling Studs 1101
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Product superseded by manufacturer back to the old part #(1001) as the new product(1101).Your Price: $18.55
H&S MFG Uni-Stud Pulling Studs 1102
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H&S MFG Unispotter Starter Kit Plus 4550
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The Uni-Spotter 4550 Starter Kit Plus Is a great entry level kit. This kit features the most powerful welder in a Starter Kit.
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Headliner woes – Maintenance/Repairs – Car Talk Community
on my 1987 Chevy Nova, I tried all of the above, and they worked for various amounts of time:
- staples (start coming out and are a pain to sit on)
- upholstery tacks (in a lovely quilted pattern) ((even bigger pain when they come down)
- spray contact cement (lasted only a few hours)
- spray headliner glue (lasted only a few months)
You can buy headliner fabric (Joann Fabrics sells the headliner glue and the fabric. I bought some after estimating the length needed. The headliner glue didn’t last long (because of the degraded foam that I couldn’t get completely scraped off but which gradually powders off — I think if you have a friend to do the temporary holding of the fabric, you wouldn’t even need the glue). I took off all the old liner (in tatters after over 20 years…) and unscrewed everything that was over the old headliner to remove everything (the visor screws, the screws for the hook to hang things on in the back seat, and the dome light. Starting in the middle of the piece of fabric, cut a hole that corresponds to the dome light. Then spray a little of the headliner spray around it (it takes about 30 seconds to become tacky). Then fit the opening over the dome light and screw the cover back in (in some cars, you may have no screws and just use a butter knife or something to poke it in. You can use glue if that’s working for you and work around in circles outward from the middle. But if the glue isn’t working, find someone to help hold it for awhile… Or get a pole or two to help hold it in place while you work. Using the knife or other tool poke it in all around the edges, screwing in the things you’ve removed to help hold it in place. I attach a couple of photos: the dome light, and the one area (around the mirror) that isn’t poked in anywhere. This looks nice and has lasted for over 5 years now with a repoking in one or two places about once a year.
Contact aerosol adhesive Hranipex
PVA glue is widely used in furniture production. We are faced with this glue from a school bench (stationery glue). Today this type of glue is produced on an industrial scale – furniture PVA (universal), PVA M glue – frost-resistant glue. Household PVA glue for gluing wallpaper. Along with the obvious advantages of this type of glue (non-toxicity, mechanical stability and fire safety), there is a clear disadvantage – such glue has low water resistance, which leads to its limited use in such an area of production as furniture facades.
What does the chemical industry offer in return?
Polychloroprene-based contact adhesives.
We will immediately analyze the important properties that can be attributed to the nuances of the technology for working with this type of glue:
- Fire hazard at the stage of glue spraying – the room must be protected from the risks of accidental fire and, of course, there must be no sources of open fire in the room;
- Chemical odors in the room during the period of glue spraying, which is easily eroded when observing the regulations for working with aerosols, when ventilating or forced ventilation of the working area of the gluing.Note an important point – after the glue has cured, the smell is completely absent;
- When glue is used vertically – gluing insulation, vapor barrier or acoustic boards – there is a weight limit – no more than 15 kg.
Qualitative characteristics that tip the scales in favor of such adhesives – water resistance of products, high temperature stability
The scope of application of contact adhesive is practically unlimited – it is suitable for gluing MDF, paper-laminated plastic (HPL / CPL), laminate, plastics, gluing ABS edges, gluing individual aluminum parts in the interior, most metals (without causing them corrosion) wood , PVC.The high chemical stability of Hranifix glue allows you to work with polyurethane foam, using this glue for gluing technical fabrics – spandbond, or fixing finishing materials without fear of the basis – foam rubber, at the same time, without using metal staples or furniture nails, when working with materials such as “ matting “, PVC leather and others.
Another feature of aerosol contact adhesives is the time of working with workpieces, for example, Hranifix glue dries within 2 minutes at normal temperature of natural air humidity, however, high humidity and low temperature slow down the drying time, subsequently without affecting the quality of fastening materials.
The preparation stage in the work on gluing the parts is important, the surfaces to be glued must be cleaned, if it is repair and restoration work at the facility, if necessary, degrease and start applying the glue with a uniform layer.
In the workshop.
The surfaces to be glued must be cleaned, dried, free from grease and dust before applying the glue. All materials to be bonded must be at operating temperature (15–25 ° C). Apply glue to both glued surfaces.Apply the glue from a distance of 15–20 cm from the surface of the bonded material. Ideal results will be obtained if 80–100% of the surface is covered with a thin, uniform layer of adhesive. When applied optimally, the adhesive will create a cobweb-like film. Avoid applying too thick a layer. The glue should not flow. After applying the desired layer, the adhesive must be allowed to breathe for approx. 3 minutes (the glue should be dry when touched), after the solvent evaporates from the glue, attach the surfaces to each other and press them firmly, and if necessary squeeze with a press.Porous materials can be coated with a second coat after drying, which will increase the bond strength.
If you work with a large volume of glued surfaces, then you should apply glue to both parts, increasing the amount to the edges of the parts and transfer the part to the press.
Dissolution of workpieces is possible in an hour, however, when gluing parts with an area of up to 0.5 sq. M., It is recommended to increase the holding time by one and a half to two times.
At the end of the application of the glue and the loosening of the parts, we recommend that you clean the working tool until the glue is completely cured, for example using Hraniclean 01, a hand cleaner.
Using contact aerosol adhesives in production, it is possible to produce a quality product, being absolutely confident in the manufactured goods – interior panels, facades, decor and design elements.
GLUE AND CHEMISTRY WHOLESALE and RETAIL | TOGLIATTI | PorTek – Everything for furniture
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Buy furniture glue Togliatti, Samara, Zhigulevsk. Portek – volga furniture accessories
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Each piece of furniture should only be used for its intended function. Service life of furniture made from natural materials, maintaining an attractive appearance of furniture for the whole
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