The Best Pens for Photos
The Best Pens for Photos | JetPens
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Every photograph tells a story. Some people take a “just the facts” approach by filing their photos neatly in a large album while others form their own narrative by rearranging them in whimsical scrapbooks. In any case, a photo pen is a handy and useful tool to help keep your memories in order. Whether you’re labelling the back of a photo or decorating the front, use these photo-safe pens to add highlights to your favorite moments.
The 12 colors of the Pilot Twin Marker.
From basic black and white to bright and pastel colors, there’s no shortage of choices for photo pens. Black pens are ideal for simple labelling, but more often than not, a scrapbooking or craft project will call for a rainbow of hues.
From top to bottom: matte, glossy, metallic, pastel.
Photo pens come in a variety of finishes ranging from matte to metallic. Choose the finish based on the type of project or the look you’re going for. Matte pens provide an understated feel while glossy pens are more eye-catching.
Different tip sizes from smallest to largest.
Most photo pens have larger tip sizes than the average writing pen. Gel photo pens tend to have smaller tip sizes while marker or paint pens usually have bigger tip sizes. Fine tip sizes are nice for intricate decorating whereas broad tip sizes are perfect for bold letters or other designs.
Quick-drying (top) versus slow-drying (bottom) ink.
Photo paper is not very absorbent and many inks take a while to dry on it, preventing you from working quickly and efficiently. Our recommendations have amazingly short drying times, making it a snap to decorate photos without fear of smearing the ink as you write.
The ink on the left side of the photo book caused discoloration on the right side.
Some ink formulas will react with the photo surface causing unsightly discoloration or yellowing, and even eat through it over time. It’s best to choose a pen that is acid-free or AP certified non-toxic to prevent the photo from getting ruined. This is also true for writing on the backs of photos.
Yearbooks and photobooks hold precious memories that people want to look back on.
Photographs are memories and it’s imperative that they’re paired with inks that last as long as they do. Look for waterproof pens that are archival and/or lightfast to ensure that the ink won’t fade. This may not be as important for temporary projects, so we’ve included non-archival recommendations as well.
Recommendations For Photos
Pens with a matte finish are unobtrusive and allow the content of the photo to shine. Our matte pen picks are quick-drying, colorful, and won’t skip as you write.
We were blown away by the Le Pen’s smudge-resistant ink that dries almost instantly. It also helps that it comes in a rainbow of unique colors, including fluorescent shades. Commonly used as a writing pen, the Le Pen is also great for labelling the backs of photographs as the ink is acid-free and will not bleed through.
The Pi:s is a colorful multi-surface marker that writes on practically everything, including photos. It writes smoothly and dries quickly. Something to keep in mind when writing is that multi-surface markers tend to pool at the ends of letters where you naturally linger, so the color may not look completely uniform when dry.
Photos have a natural gloss to them, so we love pairing them with an equally glossy pen. This finish is only available with gel pens, which require a bit of patience as writing slowly yields the best results.
Featuring an assortment of bold colors, the Sakura Glaze has a lovely glossy, raised finish that adds texture and visual interest to photos. You have to go slowly and wait for them to dry completely to get the best effect, but the end result is well worth the extra effort. Once dry, this non-toxic ink is waterproof and doesn’t smudge.
The Decorese also has a glossy, raised finish, but features a more understated pastel set of colors that’s excellent on dark surfaces. It dries more quickly than the Glaze, but we still recommend writing slowly and waiting for it to dry completely. This will ensure that the ink is even and opaque and doesn’t smudge accidentally. You can even use it to write on the black backs of polaroids!
For a charming, cute feel, pastel pens are the way to go. These colors typically show up better on dark backgrounds, though on light surfaces they give a subtle, sweet look.
Like its name suggests, this gel pen features lovely, “angelic” colors that pop brilliantly against darker backgrounds. It writes evenly and smoothly on photos, but dries more slowly than some of the other pens. The ink is waterproof and lightfast, which is perfect for other memory crafts as well as writing on photos.
The Posca is one of our favorite craft pens for writing on windows and plastic, and its smooth-flowing ink translates just as well onto photos. The pastel colors in the extra fine tip size show up clearly on both light and dark backgrounds. Once dry, you can layer different colors over one another without the colors smearing.
High-shine metallic pens bring visual interest and attention to any photo. They’re glamorous and elegant at the same time, making them suitable for events and other special occasions.
This metallic pen delivers a bold, metallic line that is eye-catching and alluring. The archival, acid-free, and lightfast ink means that even your grandchildren’s grandchildren can enjoy your memories! We wish this pen had more metallic colors to play with as the smooth-writing, pigmented formula is to die for.
Made specifically for writing on photos, the Sakura Deco pens add a touch of metallic sheen to your writing. While not quite as intense as the Faber-Castell, they’re good for those who want a more understated effect. They come in more colors than the Faber-Castell.
Black liners are go-to tools for artists and designers, but they’re also suitable for writing on photos. Most black liners perform similarly to each other on photos. If you’re interested in a more detailed comparison, check out our Drawing Pens blog. Black liners are also great for writing on the backs of photographs.
Possibly the most well-known archival black liner, the Sakura Pigma Micron is our top choice for a black photo pen. There are plenty of tip sizes to choose from, ranging from a delicate 0.2 mm to a bold 3.0 mm. If you like the ink formula but want something more exciting than black, the Micron is also available in a variety of colors.
The Staedtler is one of our favorite black liners. Like the Micron, it’s archival, fade-resistant, and acid-free and comes in a modest range of tip sizes. We love that this pen can be left uncapped for 18 hours without drying out–it’s a lifesaver for those of us that are forgetful.
There’s nothing like a pop of white on top of a dark photo to make it stand out. Our white pen recommendations deliver clean, crisp lines that provide an eye-catching and high-contrast look.
We couldn’t mention white pens without paying homage to the ultimate white pen: the Uni Signo Broad. We know people who keep these by the bucketful and for good reason–its bold 1 mm line writes smoothly and opaquely, and it even has a slight sheen to it when dry.
The Souffle is also a nice white pen to consider. It’s completely opaque, writes evenly, and dries to a matte finish. For best results, write slowly and allow it ample time to dry as it’s not as fast-drying as some of our other picks. The Souffle comes in a variety of charming colors.
For Photo Books
Whether you’re writing in a yearbook at a graduation or photo guest book at a wedding, a good photo pen is a must. Because these books are passed between so many people, the pen must be fast drying to avoid accidental smearing. The Sharpie Ultra Fine line is a popular choice for its quick-drying permanent ink, but we also recommend the Zebra Mackee Care Marker that dries almost instantly.
For Washi Tape
Crafters and scrapbookers often use washi tape to label, frame, or stick photos down in scrapbooks. All of the pens mentioned in this post can be used on washi tape with ease (drying times may vary). Most crafters enjoy using multi-surface markers (like the aforementioned Pi:s) on washi tape for their intense pigment, quick-drying ink, and smooth writing. A scrapbooker favorite is the Pilot Twin Marker pictured here. The Pilot Twin Marker is also great for writing on the white borders of polaroid pictures.
Do you enjoy writing on photos or are you a photo purist? Let us know your favorite photo pens in the comments below!
|Product Name||Colors||Tip Size||Finish||Drying Time (seconds)*||Special Characteristics|
|Faber-Castell PITT Metallic Artist||3 Metallic||1. 5 mm||Metallic||15||Permanent, acid-free, lightfast|
|Marvy Le Pen||18 Standard, 6 Fluorescent||Fine||Matte||3||Acid-free, smudge-resistant|
|Pilot Twin||12 Standard||Extra Fine/Fine||Matte||3||Water-resistant|
|Sakura Deco||6 Metallic||Fine||Metallic||3||Water-resistant|
|Sakura Decorese||12 Pastel||Glossy, Pastel||10||Writes well on black backs of polaroids|
|Sakura Glaze||18 Standard||0.8 mm||Glossy||5||Non-toxic, waterproof**|
|Sakura Pigma Micron||Black||0.2 – 3.0 mm||Matte||3||Archival, acid-free|
|Sakura Souffle White||White||1.0 mm||Matte||20||Non-toxic, waterproof**|
|Staedtler Pigment||Black||0. 05 – 0.7 mm||Matte||5||Archival, fade-resistant, acid-free|
|Uni-ball Signo Angelic||8 Pastel||0.7 mm||Pastel||15||Acid-free, waterproof, lightfast|
|Uni-ball Signo Broad White||White||1.0 mm||Glossy||3||Archival, water-resistant|
|Uni Pi:s||12 Standard||Extra Fine/Fine||Matte||5||Water-resistant|
|Uni Posca Pastel||8 Pastel||Extra Fine||Matte, Pastel||20||Non-toxic, waterproof, lightfast|
|Zebra Mackee Care||12 Standard||Extra Fine/Fine||Matte||3||Water-resistant|
*Tests were done on photographs.
**Waterproof on most surfaces.
5 Tips for SAFELY Writing on Photographs & Snapshots (and EVERYTHING ELSE!)
5 Tips for SAFELY Writing on Photographs & Snapshots
(and EVERYTHING ELSE!)
By following a few simple “rules” (don’t use regular ink pens / don’t write in the center of your photographs / etc. ), and knowing what the best kinds of pencils & markers are for YOUR particular needs (regular #2 pencils / Stabilio-All Pencils / etc.), you’ll be completely prepared for SAFELY writing on photographs, snapshots, and all sorts of archival sleeves & enclosures!
Writing on Photographs ~
Tip #1: First, What NOT to DO
It’s a JUNGLE out there!
Old photos & snapshots already have enough to contend with in terms of long-term survival (being stored in shoeboxes in attics
or basements, general neglect, etc.), so DON’T threaten them any further by writing on them with the WRONG pens & markers!
(Please click on the image for more information.)
Documenting your personal photographs & snapshots is an important step in preserving your family’s history. Once you have sorted through your picture archive, you may want to label some of your photographs with important information such as names, dates, places and such to keep track of your cherished memories.
You can’t, however, use just any old pen or marker on your photographs (see pix above), as using the “wrong” kind of pen or marker can actually DAMAGE your photographs & snapshots!
Yeah, NEVER use a pen! The inks can smear, and they often have non-archival oils and solvents in them that can bleed through to the front!
(Please click on any image to see our short video on Stabilo-All Pencils.)
There are, in fact, a zillion “wrong ways” of marking your materials, some of which can permanently damage or even destroy old photographs and other items in your family archive or collection.
We here at Archival Methods echo the advice of museum professionals & collections experts from around the world in advising you to NEVER use standard permanent markers, cheap pens, highlighters and such when marking your materials.
What IS our advice?
If you’d like to mark your photographs, negatives, polypropylene or polyester sleeves, family artifacts or collectibles, ALWAYS use the RIGHT type of pencil or marker, as described below.
Writing on Photographs ~
Tip #2: Use a Pencil!
Professional archivists will often recommend using a soft #2 pencil on the back of photographic prints that are “fiber-based.”
“Fiber-based” simply means that the photograph was printed on photographic paper and not the newer plastic- or resin-backed types of color photographs you typically find in more contemporary family photo archives (and BTW, pencils cannot be used on prints that are plastic- or resin-backed as they just don’t work on that type of surface).
Can’t read it because it’s too small (see the red box on the right)?
“Less is more,” as you don’t want to impinge on your photographs—even the backs—too awfully much.
Two reasons that professional archivists recommend using a regular #2 pencil is that 1.) it is “reversible” in that it can usually be easily erased, and 2. ) pencil lead is relatively inert, with none of the oily gunk that makes up the ink in many types of pens.
This gunk (a highly-scientific term used by professional conservators—just kidding) in pen ink often contains goofy (another highly-technical term) oils, solvents and other nasty stuff that can bleed, smear, contaminate the image you’re writing on, and/or transfer onto whatever else it is in contact with. Pen and marker ink is also usually “non-reversible” (it can’t be easily erased), which conservators frown upon (and you should too!).
Neither of these potential ink hazards is a problem when using a pencil!
Helpful Hint: no matter what archivally-safe pencils or markers you do use, always work on a clean, hard surface and apply a LIGHT TOUCH when writing to avoid “pressure transfer,” which may cause whatever you are writing to be visible on the image side. In a similar vein, it is also always best to write NEAR THE EDGES of your images (see pix above)—not in the middle—just to be safe!
Writing on Photographs ~
Tip #3: Use a Stabilo-All Pencil
Stabilo-All Pencils are a great all-around choice as they will allow you to write clearly & legibly on the backs of photographs or the edges of film negatives / on polypropylene or polyester sleeves / and on glass, metal, or paper surfaces. They are water soluble and can be wiped off of smooth surfaces with a damp cloth, or easily erased when used on paper.
So, just WHY do Stabilo Pencils come in THREE DIFFERENT colors…?
…because they’ll show up on darker mounts & album pages, and can be used to accent certain information.
(Please click on either image for more information.)
Stabilo-All Pencils are available from Archival Methods in 3 different colors and in 4 convenient package quantities
• 6-Pack of Black / White / & Red Stabilo Pencils (2 of each color)
• 12-Pack of Black Stabilo Pencils
• 12-Pack of White Stabilo Pencils
• 12-Pack of Red Stabilo Pencils
Remember that pix from the top of this blog? Yeah, now it’s surrounded with the RIGHT pencils, including
a white Stabilo-All Pencil that shows up quite well on the dark-colored back of this photograph’s mount.
(Please click on either image for more information.)
As mentioned, standard #2 graphite pencils work well on paper photos but not on plastic-coated contemporary photographs, which makes writing on the backs of these newer photos a bit tricky as they usually all have a polyethylene-coated surface.
Regular pencils will also not work on polypropylene or polyester sleeves, which you may wish to use to protect your photographs or snapshots (see pix below).
In both of these cases Stabilo-All Pencils come in quite handy!
Stabilo-All Pencils WILL write on the back of plastic-coated contemporary photos & snapshots
(bottom center), as well as on archival sleeves used to house & protect your images (middle left).
(Please click on the image for more information on museum-quality sleeves.)
So if you’re looking for an easy solution to writing on the backs of your photos or for marking negatives or archival sleeves, think Stabilo-All Pencils!
Writing on Photographs ~
Tip #4: Use the RIGHT Permanent Markers
Another simple yet effective way to label your polyethylene-coated photographs & archival sleeves is by using waterproof Lumocolor Permanent Markers and TechLiner Drawing Markers, which are perfect for safely marking a variety of materials and surfaces (see pix below).
Because these pens feature high-quality acid-free ink they will not bleed through and damage your photographs. BE SURE, however, to test the pens’ drying time on the intended surface BEFORE stacking your photographs or inserting them into 3-ring Print Pages, acid-free envelopes, archival sleeves, or other enclosures, as ink that is still wet may smear.
Yeah, now THAT’S more like it. I’m sure even Aunt Mildred would approve (but ONLY if you write on the BACK of her pix!).
(Please click on the image for more information.)
The Lumocolor Permanent Marker features a neutral-scent ink that is waterproof, smudge-proof, and is safe to use on CD/DVDs, plastics, and all sorts of other surfaces. These markers will write on plastic-backed photographs, and on polyester / polypropylene / & polyethylene bags and sleeves, as well as gloss-coated papers.
The TechLiner Drawing Marker features an acid-free, free-flowing ink that is perfect for use on paper surfaces. This ink is formulated with permanent, waterproof pigments. Drying time will vary depending on paper surface and, as mentioned, we recommend that you test it for drying time and such ahead of using it on glossy paper surfaces. This marker is available as a three-pen set featuring line widths of 0.1 / 0.3 / 0.5.
Writing on Photographs ~
Tip #5: Don’t Actually Write On Your Photographs AT ALL!
Our new Caption Pocket 4×6 Photo Pages each have a removable acid-free insert on which you can write important information. You can also print
out information on acid-free Permalife Paper right from your computer printer, and then trim the paper to the size of the insert and use that instead.
(Please click on either image for more information.)
As a final tip, there are many ways to identify the who / what / where / when of your photographs & snapshots (and whatever else you have in your archive or collection!) WITHOUT EVER WRITING ON THEM AT ALL!
Acid-free All Purpose Index Cards are the PERFECT tool to help you organize your archive
of photographs & snapshots, and you can write on or label them any way you’d like!
(Please click on each image for more information. )
A number of our snapshot kits come with either acid-free All Purpose Index Cards (see pix above) and/or with acid-free 4×6 Archive Envelopes (see pix below), and each offers you space to safely write whatever information you need (but use one of the SAFE pencils or markers described above anyway!).
Helpful Hint: when writing on envelopes, sleeves or other enclosures, ALWAYS write your information BEFORE you place your photographs or artifacts in the envelope / enclosure. This will help prevent “pressure transfer” of whatever you’re writing from possibly damaging your stuff.
4×6 Archive Envelopes are available separately and as part of the 4×6 Archive 900 Kit.
Each envelope offers you the opportunity to add tons of identification & organizational info.
(Please click on the image for more information. )
The same holds true for acid-free File Folders (see pix below), Negative File Folders, and all of the different types of sleeves and other enclosures you can use to archivally store your photographs & snapshots (and just about EVERYTHING ELSE in your family archive or collection!).
Acid-free File Folders are available separately or as part of the all-in-one Document Storage Kit,
which is available in a number of colors to match your tastes and decor.
(Please click on each image for more information.)
So, there you have it—all the ways you can SAFELY write on your photographs / snapshots / sleeves & enclosures / and just about ANYTHING ELSE in your collection or archive!
And if you have still have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. We’re always here to answer ALL your archival questions!
“Hello, Archival Methods? Yeah, I want to draw all over the walls but can’t find my box of crayons. Can you please send me some of those archivally-safe permanent markers you were talking about, as I’m sure Mom & Dad will want my ‘artwork’ to last a lifetime.”
If you have any additional questions on preserving your old photos and anything else in your collection, or would you like more information on any of our museum-quality archival storage and presentation materials, please contact us here at Archival Methods. We’re always there to help with any archiving, storage, or presentation questions you may have.
We would also like to encourage you to follow us on Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, and our large selection of informative and crisply-illustrated (and often humorous!) blogs for up-to-the-minute information, Archival Solutions of the Week (take a look at this archive for more info!), and stories of interest. Likewise, our exclusive short videos illustrate many of the archival products and procedures that you may wish to “see in action,” so please take a look!
The Best Pen to Write on Photo Paper
Memories are created in every moment, some of these memories might be something you want to forget forever but still give you a slight chuckle of how stupid and embarrassing it was. Some might bring melancholy feeling whenever you reminisce it but brings a smile because alongside it is the happy memories. Such memories are best kept and shared with the people we care about. That is why one the best way for such memories to be kept and be shared is through photography.
Photographs are the physical representation of our memories and our past. It could capture everything, from our childhood up to our present lives. Through photographs, we could reminisce and go back even to those events that happened when we’re still a baby such as our first birthday, first smile, first cry, and other firsts.
Photographs help us remember not only the events but the person itself; friends who have to live away, loved ones we barely see, and even important people who passed away. With the help of photography, we are able to capture every moment that we deemed memorable for us, a good example of this are wedding photos, debut photos, and etc.
Such an event truly brings warm fuzzies whenever you are reminded of the past. There are some cases where people write on your photo to commemorate that they were there when that joyful moment or event happened.
But writing on photo paper can be frustrating sometimes because most of the time the pen you use to write on the picture would smudge or smear on the photo resulting in the photo to be ruined, and sometimes the ink would take a long time to dry.
Photo papers are not very absorbent and take a while to dry. That is why some companies created special pens for the purpose of being able to write on photo papers without smudging or smearing it.
There are many different kinds of pens used for different kinds of papers and purposes, such as ballpoint pens, rollerball pens, gel pens, marker pens and etc.
But most of these pens are not suitable for writing on photo paper. In choosing the right pen for the purpose of writing on a photo paper there are things that we should consider such as Finish, Tip size, Drying time, Acid-Free, Longevity, and Water-resistant.
ZIG Photo Signature Pen
One of the best pens we found that is suitable for writing on photo paper is the ZIG photo Signature Pen. The ZIG Photo Signature Pen writes safely on photographs, they are a high-quality photographic pen that is made in Japan. ZIG Photo Signature Pen has photo-safe, fade-resistant and water-resistant inks and is available in different colors.
The ZIG Photo Signature Pens are designed to write on the surface of modern plasticized photos and other shiny materials. The description also highlighted some of the ZIG Photo Signature Pen features, such as the pen having a precise, fine tip and photo-safe quick-drying inedible ink which would not smudge or smear on the surface (front or back) of modern plasticized photographs or any photo surface.
The ZIG Photo Signature Pen is a very quick-drying pen that allows you to easily mark on glossy surfaces like photos, CDs and vellum paper. The ZIG Photo Signature Pen has a permanent, and fade-resistant alcohol-based ink, it is also acid-free and waterproof.
The ZIG Photo Signature Pen is available online. It varies in price ranging from different prices depending on its seller. Some areas cheap as $1 but there are some people who sell it for $75.
The ZIG Photo Signature Pen has a vibrant color, does smudge when writing on a photo.
Most of the people who bought and used it are extremely satisfied. The majority of the users gave it five stars rating. But although some are satisfied there are a few who are not.
Aside from ZIG Photo Signature Pen, there are also pens that are good for writing on photo paper such as Sharpie, Uni Pi:s and Zebra Mackee.
Sharpies are a very popular ink company in America. They sell pens exclusive for photo papers. One is the Sharpie Standard Marker Pen, it is a good pen to use in designing and writing on a photo. It is smear-resistant when dry, permanent on paper as well as water-resistant. It is also available in a different color such as blue, green, red, etc.
Unlike other markers or pens which dry really slow, Sharpie Standard Marker Pen dries really quickly. We could use this in different kinds of photo paper or photographs and also for Instax film. The only thing in Sharpie Standard Marker Pen is that it has a thick point so we can only use this in a photo with a wide space and it tends to limit the words we could write.
Every problem has a solution if you want a finer pen that you could use to write on a photo paper that is smear-free, here comes Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie which has an extra-fine hard nylon point for a 0.3 mm line width. It is much finer than the standard marker pen. It also varies with different colors and sets.
Ultra-Fine Point Sharpie is available in 42 different colors. This includes neon colors; blue, orange, yellow, pink, and green, they are called Sharpie Neon Fine Point Permanent Markers. What’s cool about these neon pens is that it glows under black light.
But the thing is if you will use this on a white color photo paper some colors were not that visible such as the green/yellow-green. They also offer Sharpie Metallic Fine Point Permanent Markers, they seem quite thick when you use this but they are not smudging at all they dry in an instant. This is good in designing your pictures like draw a crown, or effects because of the glimmering marks of the pen. Sharpie Metallic Fine Point Permanent Markers comes in 3 colors; the bronze, silver, and gold.
If you can’t decide on what size you should buy, here are Sharpie Twin Tip Permanent Markers which comes in two marker sizes; twin tip and super twin tip. Sharpie currently offers 49 unique, vibrant colors. We could buy these products online where you can find many other products that you may like.
Sharpie has become one of the most famous marker pens because of its very satisfying and incredible writing performance. Sharpie markers have a firm tip that produces a quick flowing and also has a fast-drying ink.
Sharpie is also an AP-certified non-toxic, meaning it’s safe but not recommended to use in pastries design.
However, if you’re going to design your photo with small and cute details, a metallic sharpie is highly recommended.
Uni Pi:s and Zebra Mackee
These two are both economical and good for the environment kinds of pens. Their ink is also quick drying and refillable, unlike other marker pens that aren’t and just being recycled. This also comes with sets of pens and different colors. These are quite affordable than other photo pens.
We could use these two on many other surfaces other than photo paper like metal, plastic, etc. They are oil-based ink and this makes them water-resistant. Both also are double-sided, with fine and extra-fine tips.
These two pens are quite similar in their designs but Zebra Mackee has a firmer and finer tip than Uni Pi:s. The former also has a refillable ink cartridge that can also be bought online.
These two are not for everyday use, if you will use these on a normal paper there is a high chance that it will bleed and just ruin the paper because their ink flow is huge. They are most suited for heavy-duty materials such as poster board, plastic, photo paper, etc. If you like colorful things and unicorn these suits you because they come in rainbow colors.
There are so many different kinds of pens, different sizes, different colors, different brands but everything has its own goal, to write. And each of these pens has its own unique ability, for example, there are pens that are special for professionals, for photo paper, for sketching and etc.
We hope that after reading this article you finally found the best pen to write on photo paper that you need for your project.
The Best Pen to Use for Signing a Photo Book Guest Book
Please note – this post has been UPDATED. Check out my latest on photo safe pens for guest books. This post is excerpted (and partially edited for readability) from an earlier post I did on my “dream guest book“. I get asked this question pretty frequently, so I thought I’d highlight it. The paper used below is from MyPublisher (more specifics are below). Regardless of the book company you use (except for paper options that are very glossy or printed on real photo paper), the results should be similar. If your guest book is printed on real photo paper, the same pen will work, but you do have to be a bit more mindful about possible smudging.
Which Pen To Use for a Guest Book
What kind of pen works best if you plan to have folks sign your photo book as a guest book? I recommend Sharpie Ultra Fine Point Permanent Markers. Other brands of permanent markers may work fine too, but I’ve only personally used Sharpies for signing photo books (and photo canvases for that matter). A permanent marker is important as you don’t want it to smudge. They dry so fast that smudging is very unlikely. For my guest book, I used black backgrounds, so I couldn’t use a black marker. I used silver, but at the time I couldn’t find that color in the ultra fine point, so I had to go with the Sharpie fine point, which in retrospect was a little too large of a nib. It made the writing look a bit messy, but lucky for you, you get the benefit of my hindsight.
Although I said this is not a permanent marker review blog, I did test out a number of different pens with the various the paper samples. When I was putting pen to paper, I was looking for two things: smudging and bleed through. Smudging is self-explanatory. Here’s the summary:
1) Sharpie Fine Point
I don’t recommend using this. There were no issues with smudging as it dried super fast (I rubbed my finger over the writing right after) but the tip is too thick which makes the writing look a little “blobby”. Also, because it’s so bold, you will see it show through on the reverse which could potentially interfere with the image on the other side. By the way when I say “bleed through” I don’t mean the ink seeped through to the other side, which would instantly eliminate the pen from consideration, but just that it shows through the page when held up to the light.
This fine point Sharpie is very bold – it shows through on the opposite side a bit. The ink does not seep through, but it’s visible. This is the (MyPublisher) Superior Matte paper.You can hardly see any of the writing show through here (it’s very faint above the trees) – this is the (MyPublisher) Deluxe Matte paper.
2) Sharpie Ultra Fine Point (THE WINNER)
This is the one I recommend. Like it’s thicker tipped cousin, there were no issues with smudging, but it was much more readable and no bleed through. As mentioned it comes in lots of colors too if you don’t want to use black. Black is always a classic “go to” color, but Sharpies come in a myriad of colors. So you can choose your wedding colors or whatever color you want.
3) Uni-Ball Deluxe Stick Roller Ball Pen, Black Ink, Micro Fine
I don’t recommend using this. It didn’t dry fast enough (it smudged) and it didn’t write as well on the satin finish paper. I just decided to give it a try for comparison purposes.
4) Sharpie Extra Fine Point Oil-Based Opaque Paint Marker
The tip was perfect, readability was very good and no issues with bleed through because the tip was extra fine, but this is a paint pen so it smudged. So, I wouldn’t recommend it since it doesn’t dry fast enough.
CAUTION: Smudging! So pens number 3 & 4 (the Uniball and the Sharpie paint pen) are NOT recommended. It does eventually dry, but I don’t think you’re going to sit there and blow on each page in between guests signing your book!
Here’s a shot of all four on the (MyPublisher) Deluxe Matte 170 lb. paper. There isn’t much difference as to how the signatures looked on the various papers.
As you can see the fine point Sharpie on the far right is the most bold, but as mentioned the tip is too thick and can make writing look a bit messy and hard to read.
Here’s a close-up. I still like the bottom one best (the ultra fine point Sharpie).
Notice I picked a very popular recently married couple as a sample!
So there you have it! Besides for weddings, I love photo guest books for all sorts of events – anniversary parties, birthdays, graduation parties, baby showers etc. Unlike typical guest books that may be packed away and never opened again, photo book guest books are meant to be displayed and enjoyed. Check out my wedding guest book here!
writing on photos – WTF?!?! – We’re Talkin’ Finao
Guest signature books are a wonderful addition to portrait packages, for example, with engagement or senior photos. And guestbooks with some added design are all the rage, but the printing processes for these types of yearbook or story-book layouts make the signature part a little scary.
I thought I’d put some “Photo Pens” to the test and see how well they performed on luster photographic prints (as in the Finao playBOOK photo book) and semi-gloss press-prints (as in the Finao Ravebook press-printed book). I wanted to address some myths about press-prints vs. photographic prints and Sharpies writing on any surface. You might be surprised at the results…I definitely was!
The pens were ordered from Amazon.com and had the indication that they were “photo pens” or “photo markers”, acid-free, permanent, etc. I also threw in a micron drafting pen that was recommended in a fine art signature discussion on the web, a Sharpie “Pen” and Sharpie “Marker” and a regular Bic that I fished out from the bottom of my purse.
LET ME APOLOGIZE RIGHT NOW FOR SUBJECTING YOUR EYES TO MY TERRIBLE HAND-WRITING!!! My elementary school teachers would be so ashamed….
This is the playBOOK that features photographic silver halide prints:
Best Pen for writing on photos for a guest signature book album. Finao playBOOK shown here.
This is the press-printed Rave:
Best Pen for writing on photos for a guest signature book album. Finao Ravebook shown here.
were pretty consistent for both print types, which was the first thing that surprised me. I was under the same impression that I get from a lot of our customers: press-printed pages would be better for writing…NOT TRUE!
So myth #1 is BUSTED: Press-prints are not necessarily better for signatures than photographic prints.
I used both the Sharpie Fine Point Pen and Sharpie Fine Point Permanent Marker. The “pen” smeared where the “marker” worked pretty well, BUT I don’t think it’s acid free (possibility of discoloring or damaging print down the road) and it felt like it would dry up quickly and may not last through a lot of signatures. It also had a sort of “drag” that I didn’t like. Felt like it could grip & skip across the paper as you write.
Skip the Bic. Trust me. No, seriously…trust me.
The best pens
(of the ones I tested) for writing on the photo pages and the press-printed pages alike were the ZIG Photo Signature Pen and the ProMaster Archival Marking Pen.
Both of these pens had smooth action and ink distribution when they wrote. The ZIG’s ink distribution was a little more even and the color darker than the ProMaster, which is why I crowned it king. Otherwise, they both dried within 2-3 seconds so that they did not smear when I ran a finger across the text (not lightly) and did not transfer when I closed the pages and applied pressure. They seemed to work just as well on the press print as they did on the photographic print.
There was a second ProMaster pen that I had tested, but it didn’t fare so well. This is the ProMaster PhotoImagePro and not only did the ink seem to sit on top of the page rather than adhering (think beading), but it smeared terribly.
The last pens I tried were some Sakura Pigma Micron pens that were being chatted up on a discussion board about Fine Art and signing photos. These also smeared terribly and I would never suggest using these for a guestbook. However, I’m not saying that they wouldn’t be adequate to sign a work of art which is being left to dry and not being handled immediately. I have no opinion there.
Again, all of these options were available on Amazon, and the ProMaster Archival Marking Pen was actually sold by www.IdahoCamera.com who sent me a sweet little note with my order and I appreciated the gesture so I wanted to give them a shout out here and let you know that you can order from them directly in addition to through Amazon.
Now go, start designing your gorgeous guestbooks and don’t forget to post some pics of the finished product on your social sites and mention/tag us so we can see your works! AND if you have any more recommendations to add to this list, please feel free to leave a comment and share your experience!
A WONDERFUL customer emailed me today to let me know that he had found another winner and wanted to share it with you all as well. He writes:
I have found another pen that works absolutely perfect for the book. I tried it on one of my playBOOKS here and it dried instantly. I wrote my first name and then immediately ran my finger over it and it did not smear at all. The pen is called Slick Writer by American Crafts.#62001 black. Acid free,permanent, waterproof and non toxic. I would highly recommend it.
Thanks, Jim Petrosky, for the fantastic tip!!
Pens for the Backs of Photographs
As I scan and archive photographic prints I want, at a minimum, to note that they have been scanned and when. I may wish to note some of the subject or photographer information. I have the same objectives for recent prints, for example from the portrait studio.
The first part of the problem is that modern papers are coated with something that is very difficult to mark. It is matte finish, but slick enough that an HB mechanical pencil will not leave a visible line, even though it makes an impression in the paper.
The second part of the problem is that the really well-reputed pigment ink pen, the Sakura Pigma Micron, never dries. I have read that some pens’ ink reacts with the paper, binding to the cellulose. This reaction presumably causes the ink to stop being liquid. I think that Sakura pens, and many others, are in this class. The coating on the back of the photo prevents ink from absorbing, and therefore from reacting with cellulose. I believe the high-value fountain pen inks, like Noodler’s, are in this category.
I have seen recommendations for Creative Memories Photo Marking Pencil, and for Stabilo Wax Pencil, and ProMaster Photo Marking Pen. I have not found these locally or on Amazon, but am interested in them.
Any solution must:
- Write on the slick finish of modern photo papers
- Be “archival” (notes follow)
- Dry in less than one day—10 to 15 minutes is preferred
- Not smear or transfer to other photos
There is no official or IEEE standard for what “archival” is. So, anything labeled “archival” means that the manufacturer has, well, labeled it archival. As a result, I look for an archival product that has a history, and that has a good reputation. These are weak criteria.
Another issue—one the manufacturers must struggle with—is that ink interacts with its substrate. The same ink may perform differently on 100% cotton paper than it does on buffered wood pulp paper. How many manufacturers test on the back of coated photo papers?
One note, Sharpies are not sufficiently archival for me. I have personally seen them create a yellow hallow around the writing in just a few years.
I used five different kinds of pens, of which four are marketed for the archival community. They are:
- Uni-Ball Signo 207, which contains security ink. I believe security ink binds to paper chemically.
- Zig Photo Signature pen, which is not a pigment ink pen. This pen dries almost instantly, like a Sharpie. It even smells like a Sharpie. Presumably it fades like a Sharpie. I hope that it doesn’t age to fuzzy yellow like Sharpie.
- Zig Ball 0.5 mm Archival is a typical roller pen, in most ways similar to the Pilot Precise v7, but without the needle tip.
- Zig Millennium is a pigment ink, archival pen.
- Sakura Pigma Micron pen is an archival pigment ink pen that is well loved by Internet sources.
I wrote on the back of a picture, and on finishing writing I took my finger and swiped along the writing. Except for the Zig Photo Signature, all of the pens smeared.
I wrote two test sets again, using the pens that smeared, then blotted one set with a clean coffee filter. I left the photo exposed for 24 hours and then swiped with my finger. The results are quite clear.
One pen was worth further testing; the Zig Millennium actually dried overnight. I tested it with a timed smear for up to 2 hours, and found that it requires a multi-hour dry time. These timed tests were not blotted.
For photos with absorbent paper backing, use the Sakura Pigma Micron, which satisfies all requirements.
For slick-backed photos use the Zig Millennium, but blot and allow to dry overnight. An acceptable substitute may be the Zig Photo Signature, though I am concerned it will behave like a Sharpie over time, and that would be a bad outcome. It does mark beautifully and dries almost instantly.
Oh yes, an example of ordinary pencil…utterly useless. I wrote “A Pencil” below.
It is shocking how little information is available on these pens. I have not been able to find a single set of accelerated aging test results for these pens. And I can find essentially nothing demonstrating these on the backs of photographs.
Best Marker / Pen for Signing Photographic Prints
What marker will I use for the signature on my canvas print? Let’s find out…
Yesterday, I received in the mail a huge canvas gallery wrap of a photo I took a few weeks ago in Tuscany.
It was expensive ($200), so I wanted to be sure I was using the very best pen or marker to put my signature on the print.
Trouble was, I wasn’t sure which to pick, so I went to the store and bought over a dozen pens and markers to test.
Ultra-fine point (top) vs fine point (bottom). I personally prefer ultra-fine but some people like the fatter fine point.
The Quick Cut-to-the-Chase Answer
Check out this Uchida Liquid Paint Marker. Seriously, the rest of this post isn’t even worth your time.
Just trust me—that’s the marker you want for signing photographic prints of any kind on any medium (canvas, paper, metal, acrylic—you name it!).
Get the silver one linked above for most prints since most photos have darker edges, which is where you sign.
For prints with lighter colors, get the black version of the same pen.
Most photographers will prefer the ultra-fine point of the two above-listed pens.
However, if you’re signing an extremely large print or just prefer the fatter writing of a fine point, then this is the one to get.
I had never signed this glass print because I couldn’t find a marker that I knew for sure wouldn’t smudge. But the Uchida was perfect!
Best Markers for Signing Photographic Prints
Uchida 120-C-SLV Marvy Deco Color Liquid Extra Fine Paint Marker, Silver
Uchida 140-C-1 Marvy Deco Color Extra Fine Paint Marker, Black
Uchida 200-C-1 Marvy Deco Color Fine Point Paint Marker, Black
Why I Chose the DecoColor as the Best Pen for Photographers
The Uchida DecoColor liquid paint pen was, by far, my favorite pen in the test for signing all kinds of prints.
It works on canvas, photo paper prints (even glossy!), glass prints, metal prints, and just about anything else you throw at it.
Most of the pens in the test didn’t stand a chance on glossy surfaces.
Aside from that, this marker is one of few that explicitly states that it uses only acid-free ink, which is essential for preserving your heirloom artwork.
The Uchida uses a glossy, oil-based paint, so you have to shake the pen before use and it has a metal ball inside it that mixes the paint (very similar to the ones in spray paint cans).
The silver color, the most popular for signing photos, really stands out nicely on a dark or medium background, but the pen also comes in black if you’ll be signing a light-colored print.
How I Tested the Pens
I bought 13 markers and pens to use in testing.
Each of the pens went through 5 different tests and was subjected in a blind test to a “jury” of three people.
Yes, that’s a ridiculous amount of effort for marker testing.
No, I’m not ashamed of how in love I am with anything even remotely related to photography.
The pens were tested according to quality of the ink, smudge test after 30 seconds, smudge test after 10 minutes of drying, torture test (soaked in water and then scrubbed hard), as well as looking at things like whether or not it has acid-free ink.
The results of the “torture test” to simulate how the markers withstand intense smudging, moisture, and heat. Lesson learned? ONLY SIGN PHOTOGRAPHY WITH LIQUID PAINT PENS! DO NOT USE MARKERS!
I wanted to give the pens and markers the ultimate test to really push them to the limits.
After giving all of the pens an hour to dry, I put them in soapy hot water and then cold water for about 5 minutes.
Then I took them out in the hot sun and scrubbed the heck out of them with my finger.
It took only two wipes for the Bic Mark-It markers to almost completely erase. Similarly, the Case-Mate Markers were mostly erased.
The Sharpie markers did better for sure, but still couldn’t be classified as performing “well.”
“Prettiest Signature” Test
I had expected before the test that I would prefer the fine point markers, but after the “prettiest signature” test, two out of the three judges had a strong preference for the ultra-fine point.
Here, the liquid paint pens really shined.
While all of the markers smudged to some extent, the liquid paint pens dried very quickly and withstood both the 60-second and 10-minute smudge tests the best.
We did two types of smudge tests because some inks dry quickly but can smudge later, and others are very durable but only once left to thoroughly dry.
Pen paper – penmania.ru
Fountain pen writing is a useful process from different angles. And yet, in our time, it is more than just a way of recording your (other’s) thoughts or drawing something. This gives us writers the opportunity to step away from the hustle and bustle of the routine and focus a little on writing. And this very concentration asks for harmony. And harmony for writing with a pen, among other things, consists in the use of good, correct paper …
For a couple of years now, probably, I have not used for my notes (and even more so for PenMania tests) ordinary (80 g / m2 density) office paper or a notebook that I came across.Not because this paper shouldn’t be used. And because with a little effort, you can get a result that is much superior to the usual option.
So, for writing with a pen, paper is desirable more or less dense (so that the pen does not press through), well-absorbing ink (so that the notes are not washed off by the first accidental rain), not a blotter (so that the absorbed ink does not penetrate the back of the sheet), with a smooth surface ( so that the pen glides easily), but not waxed (so that the ink still penetrates through the wax layer into the fibers).
The experiences of the first years of the current passion for writing led to the use of notebooks from well-known companies Rhodia / Clairefontaine with paper in them with a density of 90 g / m2 and, preferably, the Papier Veloute brand and Oxford macri notebooks, also with 90 g / m2 paper (Optic Paper). The paper in these notebooks works very well for writing with a pen. Actually, I used these notebooks for quite a long time. But they have a peculiarity: paper in them – in a cage, strip or dot. This is fine for testing and comparing the line thickness of different feathers, but… the soul asks for white paper, clean from unwanted lines.
For Western hobby colleagues there is a ready-made answer: 32 lb (32 lb) paper from HP. It is quite dense and is said to be suitable for a feather. Of course, I wanted to try it myself. Somehow I set out to find her in Russia. I looked over quite a few pages of Russian companies and found a couple of places where it was possible (was) to buy such paper. But I didn’t want to go there, in Moscow (and these companies didn’t have delivery at that time).Dead end?
Once at Metro Cash & Carry, I saw Xerox ColorPrint A4 paper with a density of 100 g / m2 in the office supplies department.
I bought it. Liked it !!! I tried it in different versions, the pack is almost over. Back in Metro. And there is no such paper! 🙁
But there was a different series. Also Xerox, but Colotech + line. The choice of weights was not bad: from 90 g / m2 to 220 g / m2 !!! I pushed a little samples of each of the available ones in my hands and realized that, at first glance, the 90 g / m2 option would suit me.I bought a pack, and at the same time grabbed a leaf of the rest of the densities.
And this 90-gram one became a revelation for me: we are looking at the list of the necessary qualities for the “correct” paper a few paragraphs above – this is all about Xerox Colotech + 90 g / m2!
But what about her denser colleagues? They’re probably even better?
Immediately tried to pee on the available samples. I drew conclusions, wrote them down and put everything aside so as not to succumb to emotions.Some time passed. The test was repeated. I am reporting.
The given scan of writing samples was made with a flexible pen, a pen that is quite demanding on the smoothness of the paper surface, with Diamine Rustic Brown ink. But this scan, in fact, says almost nothing: the lines have laid down heaps, in the sense that they are stable in color and thickness.
But the feeling when writing is different. Take from my words 🙂
- Xerox Color Print 100 gsm – smooth, nice.
- Xerox Colotech + 90 gsm – even smoother than the heavier version above.And this paper is slightly whiter than Color Print.
- Xerox Colotech + 120 g / m2 – almost does not differ in characteristics from 90 g Colotech +. Yes, a little denser, but not very noticeable. but the difference in price – yes, it is noticeable.
- Xerox Colotech + 160 g / m2 – this is already thick paper, almost half a cardboard. And the difference in density compared to 120 gram is greater than between 120 and 90 gram options. But the surface of this paper is not as smooth as that of 90 and 120 grams.The pen is already a little clinging.
- Xerox Colotech + 220 g / m2 – well, this is a pure half-carton. Business cards are often printed on such paper. Dense – yes! But the smoothness of the surface is comparable to 160 gram and falls short of 90 and 120 gram versions.
That’s it. The weight of the paper does not guarantee all the ingredients for a pleasant lettering.
If you write with a pen and use, due to the peculiarities of your profession, A4 paper, buy yourself a pack of good paper.Xerox Colotech + is sold in many shops that specialize in office supplies and computer products (since this paper was originally intended for use in inkjet and laser printers / copiers). Yes, a pack of Colotech + 90 g / m2 costs 350 – 400 rubles for 500 A4 sheets, which is about 2 times more expensive than good 80 gram paper. But the pleasure of writing and the quality of the recordings on it is much higher!
Colotech + 120 gram paper costs even more. And I would say that the increase in cost, in this case, does not lead to a proportional increase in quality, in terms of writing with a pen.The 160 gram and 220 gram versions are as good as the road. But their cost is just justified if you need to write something meaningful, such as “Address to shareholders”, which does not happen often, but it does happen!
By the way, my remarks regarding the comparison of the smoothness of the tested papers concern only their comparison with each other. If you look at most of the commercially available paper of various weights of other brands, then each of the above Xerox Colotech + has excellent and sufficient smoothness for writing with a pen and is recommended for purchase!
And, by the way, I tried a couple of types of paper with a density of 90 and 100 g / m2 from other manufacturers, very popular in Russia.Can’t recommend. I will not name it. I recommend Xerox Colotech +.
If you do not write on A4 paper, but prefer notepads without a cell / ruler / dots, then from the 90-gram Colotech + wonderful notepads are obtained. Yes, you will need to use efforts and tools to cut A4 paper into A5 or A6, and then fasten it all with a spring or something else, but the result justifies the means – you will get a notebook with excellent paper at the price of a ready-made store notebook from a blotting paper !!!
The technology of self-made notebooks is widely described in the open spaces of the Runet, including on scrapbooking sites, for example.
Regardless of whether you write with a pen or print on a printer, and sometimes you have to “bow” to your superiors to sign any of your projects or estimates or just a vacation application, I sincerely recommend printing such papers on paper with a density 90 gsm or higher (Colotech + 90 works great). Your document will look brighter (due to the increased whiteness of the paper) and feel more solid in the hands (due to the increased paper density) and will give you (your document), albeit a small, but sometimes very important advantage over other competing documents, on an ordinary inexpensive office paper lying side by side! Checked for yourself! Not once or twice!
(And a busy vacation 🙂
6 colors in a set, visual ink level control, ergonomic triangular body
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How to get ink out of a ballpoint pen, how to remove a ballpoint pen stain
Everyone who has children has ever come across ink arts left by a ballpoint pen on clothes or bags, gloves, furniture.Of course, a pen can leak in your pocket, you can accidentally scratch it on your shirt, but in case of such a nuisance, you should not scold the child or get upset yourself, because there are many ways to easily get rid of things from ink.
Methods for removing stains from a ballpoint pen
There are quite a few ways to clean a ballpoint pen, and the required stain removers are always at hand:
– yoghurt .Perfectly removes ink stains. The thing is soaked in sour milk, after which it is washed in a solution of soapy water with ammonia;
– glycerin . To remove the stain, you need to pour glycerin on it and keep it for 1 hour, and then rinse thoroughly in warm water. If after this there are small ink traces, then they can be easily washed off with soap;
– ammonia and hydrogen peroxide . 1 teaspoon of both components is added to 250 ml of water, and then cotton wool is moistened with this solution, and the stain is wiped off.After that, the fabric is rinsed;
– baby cream . The contamination is treated with a cream that displaces ink from the fabric, and then washed out with a detergent;
– Dishwashing liquid . It is applied to dirt and lasts for 15 minutes, after which the thing is washed;
– rubbing alcohol and laundry soap . First of all, alcohol is applied to the stained area, which dissolves the paste. Then he lathers and rinses in warm water, and then cool;
– ammonia with baking soda .The components are mixed with a glass of water in the amount of 1 teaspoon of both ingredients, and then applied to the dirt and kept for several hours;
– lemon juice, vinegar . The stain is treated with one of the components, lasts for several minutes, after which the product is washed.
Handle flowing? Buy a new, high-quality ballpoint pen!
In case of not knowing how to remove ink from a ballpoint pen, special liquid stain removers will come in handy, designed for targeted removal of all kinds of dirt.The only rule when applying them is to take into account the type of fabric.
Getting rid of ink stains from various fabrics
Each type of fabric requires a specific method of removal, because a product that perfectly removes ink stains from one fabric may be powerless against contamination of another. Learn more about how to remove a ballpoint pen stain from the main types of fabrics:
– linen, cotton . A white contaminated surface is treated with a cotton swab moistened with ammonia solution (a glass of warm water is mixed with 5 ml of ammonia).After removing the stain, the item is washed with a regular detergent.
For those who do not know how to remove the ink of a ballpoint pen from clothes made of colored linen or cotton, turpentine and ammonia, mixed in equal proportions, will come to the rescue, which are applied to the dirt and hold until it is removed, after which the product is washed and rinses. Lemon juice also helps to remove ink without damaging the fabric;
– silk, wool and other delicate fabrics . Such materials are processed with a soda paste, which lasts for 5-7 minutes, after which it is wiped off with a cotton swab and the product is washed.It is also effective to remove ink stains with soapy water mixed with gasoline or kerosene. With this mixture, the stain is treated with a swab, after which it is wiped off with 2% hydrochloric acid. In addition, the result can be achieved with a pasty mixture of mustard powder diluted with water. Ink spots are thoroughly soaked with it, left for 2-3 hours, after which the product is washed with cold water;
– velvet . Milk copes most effectively. The ink stain is soaked in warmed milk, lasts for about half an hour, and after that the thing is washed;
– denim .First, the pollution is treated with an alcohol solution or an alcohol-containing substance, after which the stain is rubbed with salt, and then the thing is erased. You can also use acid (lemon juice or vinegar essence), heated until bubbles form and poured onto the stain, which quickly disappears from this, after which the product is also erased.
If the denim is stained with red ink, then the stain is treated with ammonia, and if it is black or violet, then an alcoholic acetone solution will help to remove them.If the denim is light shades, then a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia in equal proportions is used to clean it. You can also sprinkle a fresh stain with starch, and then blot it with a napkin so that the powder absorbs the ink, after which the thing is erased.
How to remove a handle stain from leather
Leather goods are cleaned with salt, which sprinkles on the stain and lasts for several days, and then carefully wiped off with turpentine. Hand cream applied to ink can also help, which after 2-3 minutes is wiped off with a cotton swab and washed with warm soapy water.
If you have doubts about the possibility of removing the stain, it is better to use dry cleaning services, but if there is none, then these methods will help you not to get confused and quickly restore the soiled thing or furniture.
Choose good ballpoint pens to avoid future damage to your clothes.
90,000 from Joseph Niepce to the present day. Sidose Company
Evolution of Photo Paper
What is photo paper? Photo paper is a material for printing a photographic image.In the market for consumables for photographic images, there are a huge number of types of photo papers. High-quality and not so, glossy and matte, as well as many, many other types of photographic paper, which are classified according to various parameters. Well, how did such a variety of materials come about? We will tell you about when photo paper first appeared and how it evolved.
So, let’s start by creating the first photo. The first image fixed to a plane was taken in 1822 by the French scientist Joseph Niepce.Unfortunately, the picture was irretrievably lost, but Joseph Niepce took another photograph called “View from the Window” already in 1826, which has survived to this day, and is rightfully considered the first photograph in history. The picture was taken for no less than 8 hours. Joseph Niepce captured the image with a camera obscura and a tin plate coated with asphalt varnish. The principle of obtaining the image was the reaction of the asphalt varnish to the light falling on it. Thus, if we consider the functional purpose of the Joseph Niepce plate, then it can be called the first photographic paper.
In 1827, Joseph Niepce combined his activities with the artist Louis Jacques Mandé Dagger. After the death of his companion, Louis Jacques in 1833 announced the creation of a new method of obtaining photographs on silver plates. He called the photographs obtained with the help of these plates daguerreotypes. The first image on such material was published in 1839. The images were already clearer and brighter, and the duration of their production was reduced to 15-30 minutes. Further improvements of the material reduced the time to 1 min.This made it possible to take portraits. Interest in photography has grown steadily in the public, and while daguerreotype is best suited for landscapes and architecture, portraits have been the most popular.
The world of photography developed, and already in 1850 albumin photographic paper was born, invented by Blancard-Evrard, which was used until the end of the 19th century. A solution of egg white (i.e. albumin) and common table salt (sodium chloride) was applied to the paper.Further, a number of actions were carried out, which led to obtaining a clear and high-quality image. Blankard was not satisfied with the duration of the image production, and he improved his technology, combining it with other inventions. In 1852, he opened his own company for the production of photographic prints in France based on his designs. A few years later, the number of photographs produced by the company reached 100,000. However, this method did not take root in the public and by the end of the 19th century it was almost completely out of use.
Albumin photo paper had its drawbacks, and therefore in 1874 its improved version appeared – gelatin photo paper. The developer was the Englishman P. Moundsley, who introduced silver bromide into the production of photographic paper. In 1879, J. Swan opened a company for the production of photographic paper using this technology. Gelatin paper supplanted albumin paper and is still produced on an industrial scale.
Since the invention of gelatin paper, a host of improvements have been invented, which have led us to the current produced photographic papers.So what is the difference between ordinary paper and photo paper?
Modern photographic paper has many layers, one of which is paper. Paper is a base on which other substances are layered on both sides. It stiffens the structure and makes the background white for the images. The functions of the substances include fast absorption of ink and protection of paper from penetration of this ink, as well as from physical impact. The applied substances provide clear color reproduction, vivid images and protection.
First of all, two polyethylene layers are applied on both sides of the paper. This is done just to prevent ink from entering the paper. The back side of the photo paper is covered with a layer aimed at increasing the rigidity of the structure. It prevents the paper from shrinking. The next is a layer of polymer that protects against water ingress. And the last layer on the back is small metal particles that prevent the sheets of photo paper from sticking together.
On the front side, after the polyethylene layer, there is an absorbent layer.It has one of the main meanings, since its function includes fast absorption of ink. This layer can be of two types: simple and helium. Simple quickly absorbs and dries, which does not give the possibility of blurring the image. However, it is exposed to climatic influences, and therefore does not hold the image for long. Gel coating takes a long time to dry and the image may be smudged. However, after waiting for the drying time, you can not be afraid of the image, because helium perfectly fulfills the function of protection, so the image will not deteriorate from climatic influences.