Paper fasteners staples: Best Paper Fasteners for Holding Pages Together –


Best Paper Fasteners for Holding Pages Together –

Inserted through punched holes, paper fasteners are a convenient way to secure a stack of papers together. Typically made from flexible metal, fasteners offer the same hold as a staple, but with greater flexibility since they can be easily removed and reused without damaging pages. Utilized in many office settings, paper fasteners can also be a decorative embellishment to journals and scrapbooks. Our picks below will help you find the best paper fastener for your needs. 

1. ACCO Brass Paper Fasteners

A standard design, these brass-plated fasteners have a slight shine that has been protected against corrosion. With a self-piercing point, these ¾-inch-long prongs can easily poke through paper and have a smooth, rounded head that offers a clean appearance. Sold in a box of 100, these paper fasteners are sturdy enough for reuse without losing their grip, making them a great choice for offices, classrooms, and art studios. 

Buy: ACCO Brass Paper Fasteners $2.83

2. Tim Holtz Idea-ology Metal Long Fasteners

Measuring 7/16” in length, these flexible fasteners, a bit shorter than our top pick, have been designed for use in creative projects, with just enough length to attach three-dimensional objects to your cards, journals, or scrapbooks. Each pack of 99 fasteners offers an assortment of three antique finishes—nickel, copper, and gold tone—adding a subtle rustic touch that will not distract from your designs.

Buy: Tim Holtz Idea-ology Metal Long Fasteners $5.29

3. Officemate Prong Paper Fastener

Made from corrosion-resistant steel, these prong paper fasteners are an easy way to secure loose sheets in a folder or other hard backing. Designed to fit into holes created by a standard two-hole punch, these 2-inch-long prong fasteners hold paper flat and can be easily adjusted to remove or add additional pages. They’re well suited to document storage and presentations.

Buy: Officemate Prong Paper Fastener $5.50

4. Charles Leonard Loose Leaf Rings

While not technically a fastener, these binder rings work in much the same way by securing papers through a punched hole. With a 1-inch diameter, these nickel-plated steel rings can hold approximately 125 pages, making them a suitable choice for bulky materials and large stacks of files. They can be easily opened and closed with their secure snap catch and have been painted in an assortment of bright metallic colors for a decorative touch.

Buy: Charles Leonard Loose Leaf Rings $6.99

5. Smead Self-Adhesive Fastener

Similar to our Officemate pick, these dual-prong paper fasteners have an added feature, a self-adhesive backing that easily sticks to filing folders for secure storage. With a 2-inch capacity, these prongs can hold lots of sheets with enough durability to withstand repeated bending. They’re an excellent option for busy offices, eliminating the risk of lost pages by efficiently holding files in place. 

Buy: Smead Self-Adhesive Fastener $9.98 : Staples Prong Fastener, Base Unit, Silver, 2 3/4″ Width, 2″ Capacity, 100/PK : Office Products

Price: $7.29 + No Import Fees Deposit & $15.98 Shipping to Russian Federation Details
  • Make sure this fits by entering your model number.
  • Sold as 100/Pack.
  • Prong fasteners allow you to subdivide papers
  • 2.75″ wide and 2″ capacity for document storage, these fasteners keep heftier files together
  • Silver in color
  • Sold in pack of 100

Engineering:Staple (fastener) – HandWiki

A staple (from which the paper fastener was developed)

A staple is a type of two-pronged fastener, usually metal, used for joining or binding materials together. Large staples might be used with a hammer or staple gun for masonry, roofing, corrugated boxes and other heavy-duty uses. Smaller staples are used with a stapler to attach pieces of paper together; such staples are a more permanent and durable fastener for paper documents than the paper clip.


A 1775 definition of the English word staple

The word “staple” originated in the late thirteenth Century, from Old English stapol, meaning “post, pillar”. The word’s first usage in the paper-fastening sense is attested from 1895.



In ancient times, the staple had several different functions.

Large metal staples dating from the 6th century BC have been found in the masonry works of the Persian empire (ancient Iran). For the construction of the Pasargadae and later Ka’ba-ye Zartosht, these staples, which are known as “dovetail” or “swallowtail” staples, were used for tightening stones together.

The home stapling machine was developed by Henry Heyl in 1877 and registered under US Patent No. 195,603. Heyl’s companies, American Paper-Box Machine Company, Novelty Paper Box Company, and Standard Box Company, all of Philadelphia, manufactured machinery using staples in paper packaging and for saddle stitching.


  • Dovetail Staples from Pasargadae

  • Staples used to repair a Meissen plate.


  • Most kinds of staples are easier to produce than nails or screws.
  • The crown of the staple can be used to bridge materials butted together.
  • The crown can bridge a piece and fasten it without puncturing with a leg on either side, e.g. fastening electrical cables to wood framing.
  • The crown provides greater surface area than other comparable fasteners. This is generally more helpful with thinner materials.

Paper staples

The term “stapling” is used for both fastening sheets of paper together with bent legs or fastening sheets of paper to something solid with straight legs; however, when differentiating between the two, the term “tacking” is used for straight-leg stapling, while the term “stapling” is used for bent-leg stapling.(citation?)

  • Staple strips used in modern staplers, with a coin for size comparison

  • Staples in use, showing the front side (center), and two examples of the back side: the legs bent outward on the left, and inward on the right


Modern staples for paper staplers are made from zinc-plated steel wires glued together and bent to form a long strip of staples. Staple strips are commonly available as “full strips” with 210 staples per strip.

[3][4] Both copper plated and more expensive stainless steel staples which do not rust are also available, but uncommon.[vague]

Some staple sizes are used more commonly than others, depending on the application required. Some companies have unique staples just for their products. Staples from one manufacturer may or may not fit another manufacturer’s unit even if they look similar and serve the same purpose.

Staples are often described as X/Y (e.g. 24/6 or 26/6), where the first number X is the gauge of the wire (AWG), and the second number Y is the length of the shank (leg) in millimeters. Some exceptions to this rule include staple sizes like No. 10.

Common sizes for the home and office include: 26/6, 24/6, 24/8, 13/6, 13/8 and No. 10 for mini staplers. Common sizes for heavy duty staplers include: 23/8, 23/12, 23/15, 23/20, 23/24, 13/10, and 13/14.[5]

No./name Size Width of Crown Diameter Leg (shank) length/mm
No. 56 26/6 12.7 mm 26 AWG (0.405mm) 6
No. 16 24/6 12.9 mm 24 AWG (0.511mm) 6
No. 18 24/8 24 AWG (0.511mm) 8
13/6 13 AWG (1.828mm) 6
13/8 13 AWG (1.828mm) 8
23/6 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 6
23/8 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 8
23/10 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 10
23/12 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 12
23/15 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 15
23/20 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 20
23/24 13.0 mm 23 AWG (0.573mm) 24
No. 10 10/4 9.4 mm 24 AWG (0.511mm) 4.5
No. 25 Bambi 25/4 7.0 mm 25 AWG 4 (5/32″)
No. 123 11.4 mm 6.6

Stapleless staplers cut and bend paper without using metal fasteners.


There are few standards for staple size, length and thickness. This has led to many different incompatible staples and staplers systems, all serving the same purpose or applications.

24/6 staples are described by the German DIN 7405 standard.

In the United States , the specifications for non-medical industrial staples are described in ASTM F1667-15, Standard Specification for Driven Fasteners: Nails, Spikes, and Staples. A heavy duty office staple might be designated as F1667 STFCC-04: ST indicates staple, FC indicates flat top crown, C indicates cohered (joined into a strip), and 04 is the dash number for a staple with a length of 0.250 inch (6 mm), a leg thickness of 0.020 inch (500 μm), a leg width of 0.030 inch (800 μm), and a crown width of 0.500 inch (13 mm).

In the home

A common stapler with a dual-function anvil that can bend legs inward or outward

Staples are most commonly used to bind paper. A mechanical or electrical stapler may apply them by clinching the legs after they pass through the paper.

When stapling with a stapler the papers to be fastened are placed between the main body and the anvil. The papers are pinched between the body and the anvil, then a drive blade pushes on the crown of the staple on the end of the staple strip. The staple breaks from the end of the strip and the legs of the staple are forced through the paper. As the legs hit the grooves in the anvil they are bent to hold the pages together. Many staplers have an anvil in the form of a “pinning” or “stapling” switch. This allows a choice between bending in or out. The outward bent staples are easier to remove and are for temporary fastening or “pinning”.

Most staplers are capable of stapling without the anvil to drive straight leg staples for tacking.

There are various types of staples for paper, including heavy-duty staples, designed for use on documents 20, 50, or over 100 pages thick. There are also speedpoint staples, which have slightly sharper teeth so they can go through paper more easily.

In business

A stapler with a body that can be rotated for booklets A stapler from the German Manufaktur BUKAMA typ Knirps A 24/6, currently at the MEK

Staples are commonly considered a neat and efficient method of binding paperwork because they are relatively unobtrusive, low cost, and readily available.

Large staples found on corrugated cardboard boxes have folded legs. They are applied from the outside and do not use an anvil; jaw-like appendages push through the cardboard alongside the legs and bend them from the outside.

Saddle stitch staplers, also known as “booklet staplers,” feature a longer reach from the pivot point than general-purpose staplers and bind pages into a booklet or “signature”. Some can use “loop-staples” that enable the user to integrate folded matter into ring books and binders.

Outward clinch staples are blind staples. There is no anvil, and they are applied with a staple gun.[6] When applied, each staple leg forms a curve bending outwards. This is in part caused by the shape of the crown, which is like an inverted “V”, and not flat as in ordinary staples. Also, the legs are sharpened with an inside bevel point, causing them to tend to go outwards when forced into the base material. These staples are used for upholstery work, especially in vehicles, where they are used for fastening fabric or leather to a foam base. These staples are also used when installing fiberglass insulation batts around air ducts- the FSK paper sheathing is overlapped, and the two layers are stapled together before sealing with tape.

In packaging

Staples are used in various types of packaging.

  • Staples can attach items to paperboard for carded packaging
  • Staples of stitches can be used to attach the manufacturer’s joint of corrugated boxes
  • Staples are used to close corrugated boxes.[7] Small (nominally ​12-inch crown) staples can be applied to a box with a post stapler. Wider crown (nominally ​1 14-inch) staples can be applied with a blind clincher
  • Staples can help fabricate and attach paperwork to wooden boxes and crates.

In construction

Construction staples are commonly larger,[8] have a more varied use, and are delivered by a staple gun or hammer tacker.[9]Staple guns do not have backing anvils and are exclusively used for tacking (with the exception of outward-clinch staplers used for fastening duct insulation). They typically have staples made from thicker metal. Some staple guns use arched staples for fastening small cables, e.g. phone or cable TV, without damaging the cable. Devices known as hammer tackers or staple hammers operate without complex mechanics as a simple head loaded with a strip of staples drives them directly; this method requires a measure of skill. Powered electric staplers or pneumatic staplers drive staples easily and accurately; they are the simplest manner of applying staples, but are hindered by a cord or hose. Cordless electric staplers use a battery, typically rechargeable and sometimes replaceable.[10]

In medicine

Surgical staples used on a hip

Surgical staples are used for the closing of incisions and wounds, a function also performed by sutures.

See also


  1. ↑ “staple”. Online Etymology Dictionary. 
  2. ↑ Frank E. Comparato, Books for the Millions: A History of the Men Whose Methods and Machines Packaged the Printed Word, Stackpole Co., Harrisburg, PA, 1971, p. 137ff.
  3. ↑ “Swingline S.F. 4 Premium Staples, 1/4″ Length, 210 Per Strip, 3,750/Box | Swingline Stapling Accessories – Staples/Staple Removers | Swingline”. 
  4. ↑ “Premium Standard Staples, 5,000 Pack” (in en). 
  5. ↑ “Staples”. 
  6. Standard Terminology of Collated and Cohered Fasteners and Their Application Tools, ASTM International, .
  7. D1974, Standard Practice for Closure of Corrugated Boxes, ASTM .
  8. ↑ Kelly, Jan Seaman; Lindblom, Brian S. (2006-04-27) (in en). Scientific Examination of Questioned Documents, Second Edition. CRC Press. ISBN 9781420003765. 
  9. ↑ “Heavy-Wire Staple Staples” (in en). 
  10. ↑ Stuart Deutsch, “Arrow Cordless Stapler Early Review”

External links

How do you load staples in a Stanley staple gun? –

How do you load staples in a Stanley staple gun?

How to Load Staples Into the Stanley Sharpshooter Stapler

  1. Ensure the handle safety is on and the handle is locked down.
  2. Release the loading latch at the end the stapler and pull the slide open.
  3. Lay a stick of staples in the loading channel with the legs of the staples facing up.
  4. Push the slide in until the loading latch clicks and catches.

How do you staple in the middle?

3 Answers

  1. Put the paper on a soft but firm surface like a piece of Styrofoam, or even a couple layers of corrugated cardboard (like from a cardboard box).
  2. Open the stapler. Position the head where you want the staple to go through the paper.
  3. Remove the paper and staple from the soft + firm surface.

How do you staple without a stapler?

LIFE HACK: How to Keep Papers Together Without a Stapler

  1. Compile the papers you want to put together (In this example, I’m using Mr.
  2. Fold the corner of the documents towards you.
  3. Use your hands to tear two small, parallel incisions in the flap that you’ve just created.
  4. Fold the inner tab that you’ve just created away from you.

Can you staple money together?

Can you staple money? No. Destroying or de-facing US currency is illegal and is written so on While stapling money may not necessarily be done with illegal intent (say, attaching it to a document for easier handling), it’s definitely not something to do.

What can I use instead of staples?

Fasten paper without the use of staples Using a unique inter-folding process, the Paper Clinch fastens paper without the use of staples. You’ll never have to worry about running out of staples again! The convenient stapler is perfect for: School.

How do you fasten paper without staples?


  1. Align the papers.
  2. Fold a triangle on the left-hand corner and crease.
  3. Fold and crease the flap as shown.
  4. Lift up the flap from Step 4 and create that little hollow space.
  5. At the top of the flap, press it down to flatten.
  6. Fold down the 2 halves.
  7. Finished!

What can I use instead of a paperclip?

Here are the most common alternatives to paper clips that you will find in the market these days.

  • 1 – Binder Clips. Binder clips are reusable and you can’t lose them as easily either.
  • 2 – Paper Fasteners and Punchers.
  • 4 – Rubber Bands.
  • 5 – Slide Binders.
  • 6 – Pac-Man Vinyl Coated Clips.
  • 7 – Paper – Paper Clips.

Can paper clips go through the mail?

Paper clips enclosed in a box are safe to mail if properly packaged. Paper clips, as well as staples, can tear through envelopes and cause damage or loss of the item, as well as damage other mail in close proximity to it and postal processing equipment.

What are the things called that hold paper together?

A treasury tag or India tag is an item of stationery used to fasten sheets of paper together or to a folder. It consists of a short length of string, with metal or plastic cross-pieces at each end that are orthogonal to the string.

How do you make a spinner out of a paperclip?

You can use the sharp point of a scissor or another tool.

  1. Put a brad through the spinner and fold it back, leaving ½ inch or so between the top of the brad and the fold.
  2. Pull the unbent part of the brad through to the top of the spinner.
  3. Put the paper clip over the brad to attach it to the spinner.

How do you use a paperclip and pencil as a spinner?

Carefully unfold the long ‘arm’ of the paperclip and place the tip of your pencil through the loop in the clip and onto the centre of one of the spinners. Test your spinner by flicking the long end of the paperclip – it should go round several times before stopping at a random angle.

How do you make a homemade spinner?

A Split-Pin and Paper Clip This is one of the easiest and most effective ways to make a home-made spinner, and my personal favourite! Make a hole in the centre of the spinner. Take a split pin and insert it though the narrowest loop of a paper clip. Then push the split pin through the hole in the spinner.

What can I use if I don’t have a Brad?

Ideas for DIY Paper Fasteners

  • Wire Fasteners. Standard wire paper clips are the most common type of paper fastener, but also the most ordinary.
  • Clothespins. Small, plastic and wooden clothespins work like binder clips for keeping sheets of paper pinned together.
  • Thread.
  • Bobby Pins.

How do you make a paper windmill?

  1. Cut two 20cm squares of paper, one in each colour. Place one sheet on top of the other.
  2. Cut from one corner along the diagonal fold stopping around 3cm from the centre.
  3. Fold four alternate corner sections down to the centre of the paper, holding each section under your thumb at the centre as you work.

How do you make a paper windmill without a PIN?


  1. Take a square piece of paper and fold it to find the exact center and punch a hole.
  2. Now cut the paper diagonally halfway through, make sure you don’t reach the center.
  3. Next punch every second corner of the paper, as shown in the video and start folding in the corners.

How do you make a windmill in Little Alchemy 2?

Walkthrough for windmill in Little Alchemy 2

  1. earth + fire = lava.
  2. air + air = pressure.
  3. air + pressure = wind.
  4. air + lava = stone.
  5. stone + stone = wall.
  6. wall + wall = house.
  7. house + wind = windmill.

How do you make a windmill in Little Alchemy 2 without electricity?

Walkthrough for wind turbine in Little Alchemy 2

  1. fire + fire = energy.
  2. air + air = pressure.
  3. earth + earth = land.
  4. air + pressure = wind.
  5. earth + land = continent.
  6. continent + continent = planet.
  7. fire + planet = sun.
  8. energy + sun = solar cell.

How do you make a windmill in Little Alchemy 1?

Walkthrough for windmill in Little Alchemy

  1. earth + water = mud.
  2. air + air = pressure.
  3. air + pressure = wind.
  4. fire + mud = brick.
  5. brick + brick = wall.
  6. wall + wall = house.
  7. house + wind = windmill.

How do you make storm in Little Alchemy 2?

How to make storm in Little Alchemy 2?

  1. atmosphere + electricity.
  2. cloud + electricity.
  3. rain + wind.
  4. 2 × cloud.

How do you make a flashlight in Little Alchemy 2?

How to make flashlight in Little Alchemy 2?

  1. human + lamp.
  2. lamp + tool.
  3. light bulb + tool.
  4. light + tool.

How do you make animals on Little Alchemy 2?

How to make animal in Little Alchemy 2?

  1. beach + life.
  2. desert + life.
  3. forest + life.
  4. land + life.
  5. life + mountain range.
  6. life + mountain.

How do you make a elephant on little alchemy?

Walkthrough for elephant in Alchemy 1000

  1. fire + fire = Sun.
  2. water + water = sea.
  3. air + air = wind.
  4. wind + wind = tornado.
  5. tornado + tornado = pressure.
  6. sea + Sun = life.
  7. earth + life = animal.
  8. animal + pressure = elephant.

How do you make animals on little alchemy 1?

Wild animal combinations in Little Alchemy

  1. + human = livestock.
  2. + farmer = livestock.
  3. + carrot = rabbit.
  4. + wire = snake.
  5. + ice = penguin.
  6. + wood = beaver.
  7. + dam = beaver.
  8. + human = dog.

McGill’s Single-Stroke Staple Press No. 1

It’s fascinating to read articles on the internet about the invention of the stapler.  There aren’t that many of them.  Within a short space of time, if you do this, you’ll see that these articles are mostly copying from each other and simply reworded to make it seem like it’s new information being passed-on.  But it isn’t.  The worst part of it is that much of the information out there is flat-out wrong.  A French king using a stapler? Really?  That’s as believable as Steve Jobs refusing to work with anything but a typewriter.

Staplers have a long history, but their beginnings were in construction, not in paperwork management – royal or otherwise.  The patent that the Novelty Paper Fastener was based on was for use in constructing fences, not fastening papers, for example.  However, before long it became apparent that staples would be a good and inexpensive way to permanently fasten papers together.

But even this idea came about more as part of a greater “technology/business war” than years of research and development.  If we go back to just the 1860’s and 1870’s you’ll see paper pinning machines, the introduction of McGill’s brass paper fasteners, and office eyelet machines.  All of these made money, and they all had their strengths but they also had their weaknesses.

Enter the (in)famous George W. McGill.  McGill was already famous and well-off from his brass paper fasteners and his various paper fastener punches and presses.  And in 1878 he introduces his Single-Stroke Staple Press, later to be called the Staple Press No 1.

1879 magazine advertisement

This was a bold move timing-wise and one that he made quickly.  While his Staple Press was available in 1878 he didn’t file his patent until January 1879.  It was quickly granted and by February 1879 he could now advertise it as patented.  It turned out that this compressed timeframe was absolutely necessary because in very short order he would have lots of competition.  For example, the following single-stroke staplers (amongst other models) were soon available:

  • Novelty Paper Fastener first advertised in 1880, patented 1880.
  • Pet Office Binder advertised in 1880
  • Victor Paper Fastener advertised in 1882
  • Keystone Paper Fastener advertised in 1883

Now George McGill was not only an inventor, but he was a successful businessman.  And he was also an attorney by trade – a patent attorney to be exact.  And George McGill was quickly unhappy with all of the competition he suddenly had for his very successful Staple Press.

The earliest, and most successful, of his competitors was the Novelty Paper Fastener.  While this item held patents from 1880 and later, Philadelphia Novelty Company also held similar stapler patents from 1877 and earlier.  This detail ends up being very important.  Despite these details there then began an over two year bare-knuckle battle of the then major stapler manufacturers.

It began in early 1881.  It was reported on March 3 that “George W. McGill announces his intention to take legal proceedings to stop the manufacture and sale of the Novelty paper fastener as being an infringement of his “patent single stroke staple press” for which Holmes, Booth & Hayden are licensees and agents. Mr. McGill’s attorney has sent out a notice forbidding the sale of the “Novelty.”

That very same day there was published an answer, “The Philadelphia Novelty Company, manufacturer of the Novelty paper fastener, denies that it has infringed upon the patent of George W. McGill, and says that it will assume all liability for damages that may be claimed from persons selling its goods. Hasbrouck & Ivatson, the agents for the Novelty, say that they will guarantee to protect their customers.”

Now, McGill was no amateur and at the same time he was taking legal actions here in the U.S. he was also taking action in the U.K.  On March 10 it was reported in the U.S. that McGill had brought action to restrain the sale of the Novelty Paper Fastener in English Chancery Court.  But in the U.K. there were plenty of shenanigans to go along with the legal proceedings.  For example it was reported in the London Times in February how one newspaper was taken to court over the erroneous and false report that the Chancery Court had essentially pre-decided the case!  When the Master of the Rolls decided on this particular issue he was quite clear how this article was both morally and legally wrong.

In November of 1881 the Philadelphia Novelty Company started running full-page ads that essentially stated that all other staplers, including McGill’s Staple Press, was in fact an infringement on their patents!

magazine ad from 1881

During the first year that this was going on there was some scare tactics by McGill that targeted customers and sellers of the Novelty.  But by January 1882 things started getting especially ugly when a story was “planted” that an export agency for the Philadelphia Novelty Company had surrendered and cancelled their agency on account of the ongoing legal issues.  Very quickly afterwards Philadelphia Novelty Company answered stating that the export agency in question did not surrender their agency due to legal issues, and that it had been shown in court that the patents in question did not infringe.  After this decision the public seems to have lost interest as this issue is no longer reported on.

While these kinds of bully tactics were fairly common at this time it didn’t end up effecting sales of either the Novelty or of the Single Stroke Staple Press.  McGill’s Staple Press was first advertised in 1878 but was still for sale as late as 1913.  While it was likely for sale for a short time after that it was at that point an obsolete technology.  There were plenty of choices and most of them could load more than one staple at a time.

same Press, different decoration

The McGill Single Stroke Staple Press No 1 weighs 2 lb 10 oz and measures 6.25″ L x 2.625″ W x 4.75″ H.  It is made from cast iron and steel with a japanned finish.  Japanning is not the same as paint or enamel but is a special type of lacquering finish (click here for more information).  The Presses were then hand decorated with various flourishes that changed over time.

1882 magazine advertisement

1894 newspaper advertisement

box of McGill staple binders

Almost simultaneously with the release of the Single-Stroke Staple Press here in the U.S., McGill released the Eagle Staple Press No 1 in England.  Aside from the painted decoration there was no difference between the models.

McGill’s Eagle Staple Press

Patent and Other Information:


  1. Holmes, Booth & Haydens (1878, March), advertisement, The American Stationer, page 13
  2. Holmes, Booth & Haydens (1879, November), advertisement, The American Stationer, page 52
  3. W. Lotz & Co (1880, January), advertisement, The British Trade Journal, page 16
  4. Editors (1881, March 3), Trade Gossip, The American Stationer, page 264
  5. Editors (1881, March 3), Trade Gossip, The American Stationer, page 269
  6. Editors (1881, April 7), A Patent Suit, The American Stationer, page 457
  7. Philadelphia Novelty Mfg Co (1881, November 17), advertisement, The American Stationer, page 769
  8. Holmes, Booth & Haydens (1882, January 5), advertisement, The American Stationer, page 11
  9. Editors (1882, January 5), Trade Gossip, The American Stationer, page 13
  10. Philadelphia Novelty Mfg Co (1882, January 12), Communications, The American Stationer, page 49
  11. Perkins Bros. Co. (1894, July 27), advertisement, The Sioux City Journal, page 26
  12. Editors, General Price List, Whiteley William Ltd London ,1913

Visit me at and let’s talk about vintage office supplies and equipment.  You can also support the American Stationer by getting my new, updated, 3d edition Hotchkiss Stapler ebook here at Amazon.  For all of you old-skool collectors, get the new 3d edition softcover paperback of my book STAPLERS, STAPLING MACHINES, & PAPER FASTENERS VOL 1 – E.H. HOTCHKISS COMPANY OFFICE AND INDUSTRIAL STAPLING MACHINES here at Amazon.  You’ll receive an excellent reference book and some good karma.  And I’ll earn a buck or two (literally) which goes right back into supporting the research costs needed for the American Stationer.

Watch for my new book coming out soon, STAPLERS, STAPLING MACHINES, & PAPER FASTENERS VOL 2 – NEVA-CLOG

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Colored Staples by Swingline

Color Bright Colored Staples by Swingline

A few weeks ago, one of my loyal readers, @DIYSara asked me if I had ever tried any of the colored staples out there and unfortunately I had to tell her no.  I didn’t like not having an answer for her so I went on over to Google to start searching to see what I could find in terms of colored staples.  My results landed me on where I found these Swingline Color Bright Colored Staples.  I never thought I would find myself doing a review of staples but here we are, and I have to say I am glad I checked these out.

Blue, Green, and Red Staples by Swingline

As you can see, these colored staples come in a pack of 6,000 and are evenly split so that you get 2,000 of each color: blue, green, and red.  Upon opening up the package, I was pleasantly surprised by how bright and vibrant each of the colors were. On the other hand I was a bit worried to see that on the edges of some of the staples there was already some chipping of what I now realized was just paint on them.

Residue from the Color Bright Colored Staples by Swingline

I quickly loaded a sleeve of the blue colored staples into what I recently discovered to be the best stapler ever, my  PaperPro, to see what would happen if I just started clicking away straight through an entire sleeve.  I ended up being slightly disappointed when I saw that the plate and the head of the stapler both had blue residue on them from the colored staples.  Ever the optimist I convinced myself that this was probably just some extra paint that was somehow between the small crevices where each of the colored staples met one another, and not from the surface of the staples themselves.

Color Bright Colored Staples from the Front

Hoping to see better results when I used the colored staples as they were intended to be used, I folded up a sheet of paper and got started stapling a few of the colored staples into the paper.  I tried out each of the colors, and was equally disappointed to see that slivers of the paint came off on each one, leaving the natural silver color of the staples behind.  I assume there must be a way to accomplish a truly colored staple that isn’t just painted on, however I guess maybe it would just be beyond a reasonable price point that people would expect to pay for such a commodity.  Anyway, I’m glad I tried these out because I hope my experience and the photos here will keep any of you from wasting your hard-earned money on these.  Not that I would recommend these but if you are in the market for them at least they look nice and bright before you use them.  You can find the Swingline Color Bright Colored Staples on Amazon if you are truly in need of some colored staples and some inevitable residue flakes to go along with them.

©2021, Brian Greene. All rights reserved.

The Various Fasteners Used For Stucco

There are so many different types of fasteners used in lathing. Stucco can be applied to virtually anything, so different substrates require different fasteners.

Let’s take a look at some of the various types to get a better understanding of the different types and what they are used for.

Fasteners Used For Wooden Substrates:

Staples – These are the recommended and code enforced method to attaching the wire to the paper or foam. They have a wide crown and come in different lengths to meet the required depth of the specific stucco system you are using.

For instance, I will commonly use 1 1/4″ long staples for a three coat stucco process and 2″ staples for a one coat stucco system.

A special staple gun is used to fasten the staples to the wall and the only thing that is really “special” about it is that it can fire wide crown staples, which usually have a 1″ or 15/16″ crown staple through it.

These are somewhat hard to find and I have bought staples through Amazon’s website before, which is massively convenient and the prices are very similar, so it works out.

Three Coat Stucco Staples: I wanted to include some very SPECIFIC links for the type of staples that are used for a three coat stucco system, to avoid any confusion.

These are 1.25″ in length and you usually are required to have at least a penetration of 3/4″ into a stud (check local building codes), so adjust accordingly, if you are using thicker sheer.

One Coat Stucco Staples: Here are two SPECIFIC links for the staples used in a one coat stucco system. These are 2″ in length and you want approximately 3/4″ MINIMUM to penetrate into a stud (check local building codes) and adjust accordingly.

Nails – There are two specific types of nails used in the lathing process involving wooden substrates.

One is made for the three coat process and the other is intended for the one coat process (aka, two coat stucco).

4 Penny (aka 4d) Nails – For three coat stucco, galvanized 4 penny nails are the common choice, seeing as how they are the proper length for stucco wire. 

These are nailed in about three quarters of the way and then bent over the wire to secure it in place. The head of the nail is way too small to hold down the wire, so bending them over eliminates this problem.

These are widely available at many big box stores and are still very common so they should always be in stock.

Just in case you have problems finding them, for some reason, you can  always find them online for the same price (or a matter of a few pennys), just fyi.

Roofing Nails – These are used for one coat stucco applications mainly, roofing nails are a better choice because the head of the nail holds the foam down and the wire at the same time.

These are typically “electro-galvanized” and they have a shine to them, like the nail shown on the right.

They come in a variety of lengths, but are typically 1 3/8″ – 1 3/4 ” for most stucco applications. Hanging weep screed and plasterstop is also a good use for these nails.

Self Furring Nails – These have a spacer on the nail that “gaps” the wire off of the wall so that the cement can key in behind the wire. The spacer you see on the right will go between the substrate and the wire to create a gap about a quarter inch in size.

These are not typically used nowadays because the wire is furred instead. It is much easier to apply the wire when it is per-furred and these nails are no match for modern day staples, as far as grip is concerned.

I have noticed that some home improvement stores sell these but I have looked and found nothing before too, so it is a toss up, depending on which store you are at. I did find them online, for a decent price too just in case you want to go that route instead.

Fasteners For Masonry/Concrete Substrates:

Nails: There are a couple of different kinds that are used for concrete and masonry surfaces. They are much stronger than the average nail and can take quite a bit of abuse without breaking or bending.

Masonry Nails – These are stronger than typical nails, they are thicker and hardened in order to penetrate harder surfaces such as concrete and cinder blocks.

The picture on the right shows a fluted type of masonry nail, which hold a little bit better because of the lines on the shaft of the nail.

These can come in a galvanized and non-galvanized finish but I always go with a galvanized fastener, by any means to prevent corrosion from eventually occurring.

Ramset Nails – These are very strong nails that are shot in using a special type of tool that actually shoots the nail into a hard surface, like concrete.

The picture shows one of these nails with a washer, which is recommended and a 1″ nail works great!

From my experience, whenever I have to attach lath to concrete, I have a hard time finding enough of the 1″ nails with the washers at one store, I usually have to go to multiple stores to get enough boxes because they only seem to carry a certain amount.

I now just order them online (ahead of time!) to make sure that I have enough and the price difference is really minimal too, so not a big deal there.

Ramset Guns: The special tool can take many different forms and they range in price too, from about $30, all the way up to $250 or more! The more you pay, the more “user-friendly” the tool usually is, that’s what my experience has been anyways.

Check out some of the different Ramset guns to see if they would work for you. I found that Home Depot or Lowes has them but when I looked online, there were more variety to choose from.

Screws – These are used when nails cannot be utilized, or when constant pressure is need at all times, like installing weep screed or plaster stop on a hard surface.

Concrete Screws – These are designed to grab the concrete and provide a secure contact point on any type of masonry surface. Some may require pre-drilling in order to get them to penetrate the surface.

The image I chose is probably not the best screw to use because of the head but they do make concrete screws that have a washer attached to the head that will work better for holding down the wire lath and I always get extra drill bits, just in case I break one or two or three!

Fasteners For Metal Projects:

I know that some buildings are framed using metal studs and these are typically found in commercial construction.

These will have to have wire attached to them, just like any other stucco project and will usually have some type of screw that attaches the wire to the studs.

Most of the time, you will be using a self-tapping galvanized screw that has a wider head attached to it, like the one shown on the right.

These are self tapping and usually will not require pre-drilling but it depends on how hard the substrate is. A 1″ to 1 1/2″ screw is usually adequate.

Fasteners For Existing Stucco:

If you have a stucco house, then you probably had the thought at some point in time of how to hang or attach something to it’s surface like a picture, lights, etc.

There are a few different options out there that can make this process a whole lot easier, let’s take a look…

Light Duty Fasteners:

Outdoor Hooks: These come in many different sizes and colors that can match nearly any “theme” that you have on your home and will not stand out like a sore thumb like some of the earlier versions would.

They have hooks that can hold different amounts of weights too from 2 lbs. all the way up to 5 lbs. They do make hooks that can hold lighter weight too, but the majority of people are more concerned with the maximum weight they can hold, from what I researched.

Medium Duty Fasteners:

An old fashioned screw is considered a medium duty fastener and works pretty well. A nail could also be used which has a higher shear strength to it for heavier items.

I am not sure of an exact weight rating but I would guess somewhere between 10 – 20 lbs and more if installed correctly. This will require some pre-drilling, using a masonry bit for your drill, just be sure to get a decent one to make it easier on you and your drill.

You can use just about any style hook you want to use but since this is considered a medium-duty fastener, I would recommend going with a metal hook of some sort that can withstand the elements.

Be sure to caulk the hole (using a decent and easy to work with caulk) before drilling the screw into it and use a galvanized screw (or something similar) to prevent corrosion and staining from occurring.

Heavy Duty Fasteners:

These are the top of the line fasteners and will hold tremendous amounts of weight. If you have a sun canopy installed, for instance, you will want to use these types of fasteners.

These are like the medium duty fasteners but have a larger diameter and are usually longer, so they can hold heavier items.

The picture on the right illustrates some of the larger and heavier things that can be mounted onto a stucco wall if the right fasteners are used.

Lagbolts: These are the most common type of fasteners used to hold up larger items and come in different lengths and diameters. 

I included a picture to illustrate how these work and how you drive them into the stucco.

The man in the picture is using an electric powered impact driver that is specially made for these types of jobs and can take the abuse, which is an important factor if you are driving this many lag bolts in a short period of time.

Did I miss anything? Let me know in the comments below. I will constantly be adding to this post as new ideas and products become available, so any and all feedback is appreciated.

90,000 Stapler. Types and device. Work and application. Features

The stapler is a compact tool for connecting various elements with metal staples. There are two types of staplers – stationery and assembly. Stationery is intended for fastening paper sheets, and assembly ones for joining solid materials, the density of which does not interfere with the passage of fasteners.

Stationery stapler

Stationery staplers provide through fastening of sheets of paper with staples, followed by bending of their tails.Thanks to this, the reliability of the connection is significantly increased. The principle of operation of this device is very simple. A plate with staples loaded into the feed chute is subjected to a point pressure, as a result of which one of it breaks off. She cuts into the paper sheets, piercing them through, after which her tails rest against a special rigid plate, which has recesses, which leads to their bending at a given angle.

The standard stationery stapler is designed to work with staples with a height of 6 and 8 mm.Their rigidity is sufficient for punching up to 50 sheets. For more serious tasks, large devices are used, working with high staples made of thick wire. Large staplers are designed for staples up to 26 mm high.

Staple fasteners are sold in packs. Each of which contains 20 plates, consisting of 50 staples connected in a row. Thus, a pack is enough for 1,000 fixations.

To achieve a high-quality connection of sheets of paper, first of all, it is not so much the design of the stapler itself that is important as the use of high-quality consumables.A cheap tool that works with good fasteners will be significantly better than an expensive one that has cheap consumables. Still, it cannot be said that the cost and quality of the tool itself does not matter.

Cheap ones work well at first, but over time they start to jam as a result of the reduced efficiency of the spring that feeds the staples. In addition, the extrusion mechanism can be deformed, as a result of which the effect begins not on one bracket, but on several at once.As a consequence, the tool becomes clogged as a result of the simultaneous release of several fasteners through the narrow feed slot.

In most staplers, the staple is squeezed out directly by a special plate, which extends when you press your hand on the device body. Expensive and large devices designed for punching cardboard and a large number of sheets have a more perfect design. They have an additional spring that acts as an amplifier. A special shoulder mechanism increases the force generated by the pressure, resulting in the brace coming out with less stress on the hands.

Additional features of stationery staplers

Stationery stapler at first glance seems to be a completely simple design, which can hardly have any additional ways of application. This is wrong. For example, few people know that the plate, which the tails of the staples rest against before bending, can turn over. It has two mounting positions. In the first, the technological recesses for folding the tails are close to each other, and in the second they are wider.In the first position, the staples are bent inward, after which their tails are tightly cut into the sheets of paper to be joined from the opposite side. In the second position of the plate, when the recesses are wide, the staples are bent outward. Such bonding is used in cases when you need to temporarily attach a stack of paper, while in the future it will have to be disconnected. This method of fastening provides a secure fit, but at the same time it takes a minimum of effort to remove the staple.

Also, many models of stationery staplers can be opened, as a result of which their shape turns from an acute angle into a straight line.Such a technical solution in the design is made with the aim of driving the staples into the surface without bending them, which is necessary when fixing paper sheets to various materials. For example, with a tool in this position, you can attach an ad to a board or tree trunk.

Some types of tools have a protruding pointed blade at the opposite end. It is necessary to remove previously clogged staples. To do this, you need to drive it under the installed bracket and pull the stapler towards you.It is worth noting that this method is quite productive, but not the best. It is much more convenient to use a special tool called a staple remover.

Mounting staplers

Mounting staplers are used for nailing various materials with staples. The reliability of such a connection is in no way inferior to small nails, while the nailed material receives a larger clamping area than the head of a stud or screw can provide. This is especially important when you need to fix fabric or plastic wrap.

There are three types of mounting staplers:
  1. Mechanical.
  2. Electrical.
  3. Pneumatic.
Mechanical stapler

Most popular. This is facilitated by its low cost, thanks to which everyone can afford it. It can be used anywhere as it does not need to be connected to an electrical network or a compressor. Its design is very simple and has a lot in common with a stationery stapler.The only difference is that the mounting models have a much more powerful spring, the erection of which is carried out by a special mechanism with a handle to strike the brackets. When the trigger is squeezed with the palm of the hand, one actuation occurs.

It should be noted that a mechanical stapler quite often does not cope with the task at hand. The spring used in it wears out over time and becomes softer. As a result, the staple can only enter halfway into the material.Often it skews to the side and is simply deformed. These problems are especially common in the low-cost segment. As for expensive devices, they last much longer. The disadvantage of all mechanical staplers is that significant forces are required to drive each staple. If you need to make several dozen bindings, then this is not a problem, but when you have to work for a long time, the hand gets very tired.

When working with a mechanical mounting stapler, keep in mind that you should not put more than one staple plate in the loading slot at the same time.Even if some of the consumables were used in the tool, until they are completely exhausted, the addition of other brackets is not recommended. This is due to the fact that the optimal stroke width of the feed compression spring will be violated. As a result, over time, it will begin to press worse and worse, which will lead to jamming of the staples inside the tray.

Electric stapler

Also has a spring in its design. Its construction is carried out by the action of an electric drive.Thanks to this, it is much easier to work with such devices, although the tool itself is heavier than a mechanical one. It should be noted that despite the reduction in the load on the hands, such devices have their own drawbacks. First of all, this applies to the electrical wire, which constantly interferes. More recently, battery-powered models have appeared that do not need to be connected to the network. This significantly expanded the range of operation of such devices, but still led to an increase in the weight of the instrument.

Electrical devices belong to a more expensive price segment than manual ones. They have high productivity, therefore they are often used in various industries. In particular, they are used for upholstering furniture. Especially such a tool fell in love with craftsmen who are engaged in hauling furniture at the client’s home. Using such a stapler allows you to work quickly, and there is no need to wear a compressor, which is necessary in the case of using more powerful pneumatic equipment.

The electric stapler has an additional degree of protection to prevent accidental release of the staple when the button is pressed. Unplug the electric stapler before refueling. Otherwise, there is a risk of injury. In addition, many models have a locking mechanism that will not open the plate tray with fasteners while the device is connected to the mains. Some devices have a dedicated rev button to put the instrument in safe mode and open the loading tray.

Pneumatic stapler

Squeezes out staples using compressed air from the compressor. It is a fairly lightweight device that provides high clogging speed. Such devices can usually be found in industries. With their help, furniture is hammered together, upholstery is attached, and various items are packed in a crate for transportation or storage. Pneumatic devices have high strength and are therefore capable of penetrating very hard materials. In this regard, when working with this type, it is necessary to strictly follow the safety rules.

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Stationery stapler: device.How to Assemble a Stationery Stapler

The first paper stapler was made in the 18th century for the French Emperor Louis XV. Each brace was marked with a royal seal.

In 1867, D. McGill received a patent for a press, which made it possible to fasten sheets using brass fixtures.

Its design has become the basis for modern staplers. Modern devices are smaller and lighter. They are much more convenient to use.

Types of stapling

Not everyone knows that stationery staplers differ depending on how they staple the sheets. Most office workers are familiar with the usual closed-type stitching options. This stationery stapler folds the edges of the staples inward. This is considered to be the most reliable way to hold paper together. It is also the most common.
There is also an open type. In this case, the staples are bent outward. This method is preferable to use in cases where only temporary stitching of sheets is needed.The papers fastened in this way are easy to separate, while the traces are practically invisible.

Sometimes a special stationery stapler with straight staples is used in offices. It is necessary in those situations when it is necessary to attach paper (some kind of announcement or document) to a special board with a soft surface. It can be made, for example, from cork.

How to charge staples with your own hands

To refuel different types of staplers, follow these steps:

    conventional mechanical:
    Put the stapler on the fuse.

Mechanical stapler latch

Remove the push rod with spring. Insert the staple block. Put the pusher in place. Set the lock to its original position.

Threading the mechanical stapler

If there is no latch, press the plunger slightly. Pull it down and towards you.

Mechanical stapler pusher

  • After installing the staples, push it in until it clicks;
  • Impact mechanical:
  • Press the catches on both sides.
  • Hammer stapler latch

  • Lift the metal magazine cover.
  • Insert the brackets and latch the cover.
  • electrical:
  • Disconnect the power button 1. Turn the stapler with the magazine up.
  • Power button and lever

  • Press the locking lever 2 and pull it towards you. Pull out the tray.
  • Load the snap into the cavity. Return everything to its original position;
  • pneumatic:
  • Hold the tool so that the outlet does not point towards people.Flip up the stopper.
  • Pneumatic Stapler Magazine Stopper

  • Pull back the magazine latch.
  • Insert snap-in. Put the catch and stopper back.
  • How to charge a mechanical device: video

    Important nuances

    When purchasing a paper joining device, it is important to consider how actively you will use it. If you plan to use it often, then pay attention to the metal options. They are considered more reliable and will last longer.Otherwise, conventional plastic devices will do. The principle of their work is absolutely the same.
    It is also important to note that staplers vary in power. This indicator determines how many sheets your device can fasten at one time. By the way, it is also important to choose the right staples for your stationery stapler. It is advisable to know not only their size, but also the manufacturer. It should be borne in mind that thicker brackets are required for more powerful devices. Otherwise, they will bend and break when trying to stitch a stack of papers with them.

    In addition, you need to know that there are devices that work only when resting on a table or other flat surface. If you try to hold the papers together with such a stapler, the staples will fall out or deform.

    What to do if the staple is stuck

    When using a construction stapler, a problem often arises, such as breaking the staple inside the receiver. Fasteners often bent or get stuck in the outlet, with many problems.To restore functionality, you will need to get the store with staples completely. Professional models have a removable receiver, so repairs will not take long.

    First of all, you should open the metal plate and get the spring. Further in the middle of the stapler, you need to find an iron part and grab it tightly with your fingers. This will allow you to reach the entire magazine and remove the jammed staple.

    Reassembly of the tool does not require much effort: the removed magazine is put in its original place, after which a characteristic click should sound.Then it remains to return the spring to the groove.

    If you are using a power tool, remember to adjust the special screw using a roughing material to check. During this stage, you need to rotate it from minimum to maximum. If the bracket is well secured from the first shot, proceed to work on the “clean copy”. In other cases, the procedure will need to be repeated.

    The furniture stapler is a universal construction device that is suitable not only for upholstery activities, but also for more complex work.If you use such a tool correctly, it will last long enough and efficiently.

    Additional options

    It seems to many that the stationery stapler is a fairly simple device that cannot be improved in any way. But manufacturers are making it more convenient to use. So, when buying, pay attention to the fact that there is a plastic footboard or rubberized inserts at the bottom. They will protect your desk from scratches.

    Another important and convenient addition is the built-in de-stapler.This is a special device with which you can quickly unbend the staples. It will come in handy in situations where you will need to separate previously bonded sheets. Picking open the staples with scissors, and even more so with nails, is inconvenient, and it looks unsightly.

    Video review of staplers

    You can also watch a short video on the review of furniture staplers, as well as the principle of their refueling, setting and working with them:

    To all home masters of luck, there will be questions – write!

    The construction stapler has gradually gained respectable popularity as a tool for finishing work.This simple fixture has become indispensable for the attachment of roll materials, proving its effectiveness and versatility.

    Currently, stores offer a wide range of staplers, and therefore it is necessary to choose the right tool, taking into account the real conditions of its use.

    Repairing devices

    If you had a regular pocket or small desktop stapler, it is best to buy a new one if it breaks down. But there are some problems that everyone can fix on their own.
    First of all, it is necessary to remove the body and remove the clip from the chute. This way, you can see that there are staples stuck at the exit from it, which interfere with its normal functioning. This is usually the main cause of the breakdown.

    Any jammed staples must be removed for the stapler to function properly. This can be done with tweezers or a thin screwdriver. The main thing is not to damage the chute itself, the spring and the pusher. After that, you can remember how to assemble a stationery stapler.It is necessary to reinsert the spring if you removed it, install the housing and press the upper part against the lower so that they lock into place.

    Wrong option

    The mistake of many is that when the stapler runs out of staples, they pull back the double-sided lugs of the frame lock, open it and try to insert the next clip of staples through the front part from the side of the striking mechanism. As a result, with an awkward movement, the spring mechanism now and then throws the clip back, and it flies away many meters, after which it is necessary to search for it for a long time.Often, the clip can fly into the eye of the hapless “stapler operator”. Here is a video that shows how not to do it, although the operator himself does not know about it.

    Instructions for safe use of the tool

    When working with a construction stapler, it is imperative to follow the safety instructions. The main requirements are reduced to the following points.

    1. When replacing staples, secure the tool with a safety device against sudden, unintended activation.
    2. It is forbidden to point the instrument at the hand or other part of your own body, as well as at other people or animals.
    3. When transporting or storing the stapler, secure its handle with a safety catch.
    4. Only a person in a normal psychological state (not under the influence of alcohol, psychotropic substances or drugs) is allowed to work with the brace.
    5. The work area must be well lit and clean.
    6. Personal protective equipment such as goggles must be worn at all times to ensure that nothing is accidentally thrown into the eye. To prevent the bracket from flying off when fired, it is required to monitor the presence of metal inclusions on the working surface, bypassing or removing them in a timely manner.
    7. If the fastener gets stuck, it must be carefully removed.
    8. When working with small-sized workpieces, they must be fixed motionlessly using a vice or clamps, it is forbidden to hold it with your hands.
    9. The position of the body should always be stable and as comfortable as possible, and shoes with non-slip soles.

    The instructions for safe work with electric and pneumatic staplers contain additional items:

    • mains power tools must not be used inside hazardous areas;
    • Only switched off equipment may be connected to the outlet;
    • The power cord with plug and the case of the operated model must be intact;
    • It is forbidden to use an electric staple gun in the rain or indoors with a high level of humidity;
    • unauthorized persons must be at a distance of more than 2 m;
    • used pneumatic tools, the high-pressure hose to it, as well as the rest of the system must be free of mechanical damage;
    • During work, it is necessary to ensure that the power cord is located behind the tool so that it does not interfere.

    There is nothing complicated when using mechanical, pneumatic, as well as electrical types of construction staplers. It is only necessary to use suitable (specified in the operating instructions) fasteners for work, and before it, adjust the impact mechanism for a specific material. At the same time, constant adherence to safety precautions will prevent injury. Attentiveness and accuracy is one of the main guarantees of high-quality performance of any work.

    Adjustment and adjustment

    Different types of staplers are adjusted differently.But the principle of operation is the same: with an increase in thickness and hardness, it is necessary to increase the impact force and the degree of pressing.

      Staplers with coil spring are adjusted with a special screw. The degree of pressing changes smoothly;

    stapler with spring has two positions of the pressure regulator;


      Turn on the power button.

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