Nono sephora: Hair removal – Silk’n vs. NoNo

Sephora Just Updated Their Clean Beauty Standards in a Big Way

The word ‘clean’ doesn’t have a set definition when it applies to beauty. After researching regulations, ingredients, and formulations like it’s our job (because it actually is our job), we’ve come to this understanding: ‘clean’ is yet another word in the beauty industry’s vast vocabulary of murky messaging. The word itself is not well-regulated, and its definition isn’t even specifically agreed upon by industry experts. That’s why we took it into our own hands to take a stance on the subject, defining ‘clean beauty’ in our own way in order to clear some things up for ourselves and our readers.

Since then, we’ve been keeping a close eye on the beauty industry, testing various clean products, learning more about natural brands, and expanding our knowledge on the topic as a whole. There are others who are doing the same thing. We, as a beauty community, are becoming more and more aware and inquisitive about our product’s ingredients.

It only makes sense, then, that giant beauty retailers would also take steps in a cleaner direction (you know, in order to appeal and provide for customers like us). Sephora is one of those giant beauty retailers. Recently, the brand created a special category, the Clean at Sephora seal, which lets customers know whether a particular product adheres to Sephora’s set of criteria on regarding formulation and sourcing (the label is green and features a leaf check mark graphic; it’s placed on the right side of every compliant product on the brand’s website). Initially, Sephora’s “formulated without” list include 13 potentially harmful ingredients, which means a product could only receive the clean label if it was formulated without all 13 of those ingredients.

Well, we’re happy to report that as of today, Sephora has updated its clean beauty standards to include over 50 ingredients to its “formulated without list” That’s up from the original 13 ingredients it vetted before. Keep scrolling to all the cosmetic ingredients (like all 50 plus) that are now blacklisted under the Clean at Sephora label.

  • Sulfates – SLS + SLES
  • Parabens
  • Formaldehydes
  • Formaldehyde-releasing agents
  • Phthalates
  • Mineral Oil
  • Retinyl Palmitate
  • Oxybenzone
  • Coal Tar
  •  Hydroquinone
  • Triclosan
  • Triclocarban
  • Undisclosed Synthetic Fragrances (synthetic fragrances allowed providing they meet all of the above criteria AND certify they comply with the brand’s Clean Fragrance criteria, which is “In skincare, makeup, and hair products only, synthetic fragrances allowable at concentrations below 1% of total formula,” and “clean fragrance brands must also be cruelty-free and without the following: PTFE/PFOA, Styrene, Polyacrylamide / acrylamide, Acetaldehyde, Acetonitrile, Methylene chloride, Animal fats, oils, and musks, Benzalkonium chloride, Toluene, Resorcinol, Acetone, Butoxyethanol, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, Methyl cellosolve, Methylisothiazolinone / methylchloroisothiazolinone, Mercury and mercury compounds (thimerosal), and Bisphenol A (BPA).
  • Acrylates (specific to ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, tetrahydrofurfuryl methacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate)
  •  Aluminum Salts
  • Animal Oils/Musks/Fats
  • Benzophenone + Related Compounds
  • Butoxyethanol
  • Carbon Black
  • Lead/Lead Acetate
  • Methyl Cellosolve + Methoxyethanol
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone & Methylisothiazolinone
  • Mercury + Mercury Compounds (Thimerisol)
  • Insoluble Plastic Microbeads (which applies to rinse off products only)
  • Resorcinol
  • Talc (asbestos free talc is ok. Brands need to conduct testing to ensure no contamination)
  • Toluene
  • BHA/BHT (BHT threshold is 0.1%)
  • Ethanolamines DEA/TEA/MEA/ETA
  • Nanoparticles as defined by EU
  • Petrolatum & Parrafin (All USP grade is ok)
  • Phenoxyethanol (under 1% is ok)
  • Polyacrylamide & Acrylamide
  • Styrene (specific to Bromostyrene, Deastyrene/acrylates/dvbcopolymer, sodium styrene/divinylbenzene copolymer, styrene oxide, styrene
  • 1, 4 Dioxane (brands required to test final formulas and need to comply with specific thresholds)

Not only do these new standards go into effect this month, but Sephora is also expanding its clean beauty offerings with the addition of new brands and products. Prepare to see Byrdie favorite brands like Kosas, Flora + Blast, and Primera soon. Sephora Collection skincare, which is all priced under $20, makes the clean beauty cut, as does Sephora’s fragrance brand, By Rosie Jane, which now has a fully transparent ingredient list.

Next, read up on the beauty products that should (and should not) be bought organic.

THE NEW, STRICTER ‘CLEAN AT SEPHORA’
– Aether Beauty

It was an exciting moment when Sephora first launched their ‘Clean at Sephora’ program last year, banning 13 toxic ingredients from products bearing their clean seal.

Just over a year later, Sephora is already refining what clean means to them by expanding their no-no list to 50 ingredients that all ‘Clean at Sephora’ products must be formulated without!

They’ve also made it much easier to find clean products with a curated ‘Clean at Sephora’ section on their website. 

WHAT’S ON THE BANNED LIST?

Among the 50 banned ingredients are well-known toxins like parabens, sulfates, phthalates, formaldehyde, oxybenzone, triclosan, triclocarban, coal tar, hydroquinone, lead, mercury, aluminum salts, DEA/TEA/MEA/ETA, and more.

Some of the 50 ingredients aren’t completely banned but limited in concentrations:

  • BHA & BHT: allowed at 0.1% and under.
  • Synthetic fragrances – allowed at under 1% of the total formula in hair, makeup, and skincare products. Keep in mind, brands are not required by the FDA to disclose which ingredients make up synthetic fragrances. So, if you are avoiding all potential toxins, it’s best to steer clear of labels that include ‘fragrance’ altogether.
  • Clean at Sephora brands are required to test their final formulas for 1,4 Dioxane, a suspected carcinogen that contaminates other ingredients. The tests must show 10 or < ppm for rinse-off products and 3ppm or < for leave-on products. 

While not an exhaustive list, this is a great baseline if you’re looking to avoid many of the most dangerous and well-documented toxins in your beauty routine. Use the ‘Clean at Sephora’ seal as a starting point, then read ingredient labels to evaluate products against your own personal standard of clean.  

HOW THIS ALL CAME ABOUT

This change was spurred in large part by the Sephora Beauty Insider community – in other words, you guys! You asked for more clean options and stricter ingredient standards, and Sephora listened.

While there’s still progress to be made in bumping up this measure of clean to something truly and undeniably safe and non-toxic, the process is in motion!   

So, congratulations to all you clean beauty supporters! Thank you for continuing to support and champion clean, ethical, sustainable beauty. You are truly changing the future of cosmetics, one clean beauty buy at a time.

WILL CLEAN BEAUTY KEEP GROWING AT SEPHORA?

Sephora is the first global beauty retailer to create a public chemical policy. And as the world’s largest beauty destination, they lead the charge – where Sephora goes, the rest of the industry will likely follow. And they’re continuing on forward – Sephora’s goals in the next few years are to: 

  • Reduce the number of products they sell containing any of the 50 banned chemicals by 50% in three years.
  • Work with its brands and suppliers to disclose all intentionally-added ingredients for ALL beauty and personal care products on its US website by 2020. 
  • Work with brands and industry partners to encourage the replacement of all “high-priority chemicals” with safer alternatives and avoid “regrettable substitutes”.

“As our clean movement grows, we’ll continue to add exciting new brands and identify even more chemicals to reduce and eliminate.” – Sephora

What this means: keep commenting, sending messages, and voting with your dollars in-store and online. As demand rises for clean products and stricter ingredients standards, so will Sephora’s focus on clean beauty!

WHAT DOES ‘CLEAN’ BEAUTY REALLY MEAN? OUR STANCE.

‘Clean’ is an unregulated and heavily debated term in the beauty world. It means different things to different people, but ultimately, it means non-toxic.

At ĀTHR Beauty, we ban over 1400 ingredients from our products (as compared to 11 banned ingredients in the US and 1300 banned in the EU). We also extend the idea of ‘clean’ beyond just our ingredients. Clean is a holistic, far-reaching definition for us – summed up as ‘do no harm’ to any person, animal, or the planet.

In addition to non-toxic ingredients, ‘clean’ means that the origins of our ingredients are clean and pure:

  • Our ingredients are sustainably and ethically sourced, with fair-trade and ethical labor practices. 
  • No animal will suffer for any ingredient we use. We’ll always be 100% vegan and cruelty-free.
  • The planet will not be affected or be made “dirty” by the production, use, or disposal of our products.

Clean beauty means a clean conscience! It means that from our non-toxic, vegan formulas, to our sustainable, ethically-sourced ingredients, to our zero-waste, recyclable packaging, we are bringing only good into this world. #goodvibesbeauty

WHAT’S NEXT  

What we see in the future: these standards will become the baseline for ALL beauty and personal care products. Clean will just become normal.

Because the truth is – the same gorgeous colors, effects, and results can be achieved with clean, non-toxic ingredients. There’s just no reason or excuse to use toxic (or non-vegan) ingredients anymore. Let’s work together to bring the industry forward – to encourage brands to stop choosing the cheapest, most readily available option, and instead choose the healthiest, most ethical, AND most effective ingredients available.

____________________________

Thanks for tuning in to our blog and for supporting clean beauty! Leave us your comments and questions below or visit us on Instagram.

-ĀTHR Beauty xo

Clean at Sephora’s 2019 Updated Ingredient List – WWD

Sephora’s Clean at Sephora program is expanding and getting more stringent, WWD has learned.

The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned retailer launched the program, which aims to help shoppers navigate its assortment and identify “clean” beauty products, last year in the U. S. and Canada. At the time, the requirements for a product to achieve the Clean at Sephora seal were that it be formulated without 13 specific ingredients including SLS, SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, phthalates and mineral oils — all common ingredients consumers are becoming increasingly wary of in personal-care and beauty products. In the summer of 2018, some 2,000 products from 61 brands made the Clean at Sephora cut.

At the end of July, Sephora will introduce regulations designed to tighten the program’s standards. The most significant change is the tripling of its “free-from” ingredient list, to include about 45 ingredients that Clean at Sephora products are required to be formulated without. The updated list includes ingredients such as undisclosed synthetic fragrances, aluminum salts, animal oils, musks and fats, carbon black, talc, toulene, oxybenzone, retinyl palmate, butylated hydroxyanisole, nanoparticles as defined by European Union guidelines, certain types of styrene and phenoxyethanol above a 1 percent concentration.

Ingredients on the Clean at Sephora “free-from” list need not be officially considered toxic at levels used in beauty products, said Cindy Deily, vice president of skin-care merchandising for the retailer, who oversees the Clean program. Rather, the retailer is most interested in identifying ingredients that are of concern to consumers, no matter if they are proven toxic or not. Many ingredients on the updated list are those that have made headlines within the past year. For instance, Follain, the Boston-based clean beauty retailer, caused a stir last year when it announced it was banning phenoxyethanol, a preservative alternative for parabens commonly used by clean beauty brands. Phenoxyethanol is now on Clean at Sephora’s “free-from” list. Animal-derived ingredients such as musks, fats and oils are also being banned this year at Sephora, at the same time as interest in vegan and cruelty-free beauty brands is on the rise. Last year, The NPD Group tracked a 20 percent rise in vegan and cruelty-free brands carried by retailers.

“The whole program is evolving to be more robust, comprehensive and sophisticated,” said Deily of the updates made to Clean at Sephora. “We knew [when we launched] that the program would have to be evolved — we take input from different sources, like our beauty advisers, brand founders, third-party labs, the EWG and with LVMH. We’re watching everything and we’re aware we may need to make further updates.”

Sephora is adding to its “free-from” list at the same time as the EU is cracking down on “free-from” claims. On July 1, certain “free-from” claims on cosmetics products may be banned should member states wish to, including “free-from parabens” and “free-from perfumes.”

Despite the differences in regulatory and labeling standards, Deily said Sephora is looking into whether the Clean at Sephora program could work outside of North America. “We’re having discussions about whether it makes sense for other parts of the world.”

The number of products designated “Clean at Sephora” has skyrocketed since the 2018 launch. The assortment now ranges from 3,000 to 4,000 products across 68 brands in skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair. New brands in the program include First Aid Beauty, Flora + Bast, Glow Recipe, Lord Jones, Lululemon, Primera and Saint Jane.

More From WWD: 

Is Phenoxyethanol the New Paraben?

Baths are Heating Up 

Lululemon Debuts Self-Care Line at Sephora

Sam Brocato and Maesa Group Debut Clean Hair-Care Brand at Sephora

Sephora | Nono and the beauty

Sun is shining, sweet temperatures, blue sky blablabla …yes I fitted my ballerinas for a walk in the sunny streets ! I was in a good mood and I decided to stop at Sephora to enjoy my 20% off on the latest (fabulous, amazing) perfume from Lolita Lempicka. Trust me or not I never left the store with it, but I wasn’t empty-handed (I hope it means something).

Instinct or reflex, I started to walk around in cosmetics sales and I was like : “Dior ! And why I will not purchase my beloved foundation ?!”. Saleswoman’s harpooning and here we have my first item in the cart, then comes THE fateful question : “Do you want to see anything else ?”, well now you ask I think I saw the latest Guerlain’s collection, this little nail polish with its pretty name Madame Batifole … Business training or real interest, she told me that the collection was absolutely A-DO-RA-BLE and I had to see these crazy colors ! And of course she was so right about that, we want to buy everything in this collection, lipgloss (generally I hate that) to nail polish not forgetting blush ! Yes you can throw me rocks, I’m weak : one nail polish and THE blush (you’ll understand why I say “THE”) in my cart. Now I’m completely guilty and I just asked : “I would like to see the It Palette- Sephora, please” (note to myself : stop watching guru’s beauty on YouTube !!!!!). And … OMG it is so amazing, lovely packaging so girly, great eyeshadows well pigmented, yes it’s only nude colors, I probably have most of them in other palettes BUT we don’t have enough nude, never ! (new rule, made-up on the moment). So this is how you can miss all the point : only get a new perfume, QED (<- I hope this is commonly and understanding, to say that). Moral : next time I’ll buy for what I came 😉

I’m sorry for the quality of my first pic, it was taken 5 minutes ago, I promise you, next time it will be with natural light 🙂 and I just can’t resist to post a photo-zoom of THE blush 😉 I think it is a great idea for gift if you don’t have anyone 🙂

I see you soon and do not hesitate to like (or hate, it is your right), share and comment this article 🙂

Products :

  • Diorskin nude skin-glowing, Beige 030, Dior – $48
  • Blush fall collection, Madame Rougit, Guerlain – $69,30  (feelunique.com)
  • La laque couleur fall collection, 860 Madame Batifole, $29,70  (feelunique.com)
  • It Palette, Nude, Sephora – $32

When Beauty Is More Than a Click Deep – News – Tuscaloosa News

Cosmetic companies are discovering that the Internet has become a much better place to showcase their products.

AFTER years of toiling with clunky Internet technologies, cosmetics companies and other suppliers say the Web has become a much better place to showcase their products.

The shift comes at a good time, analysts said, and not just because the holiday shopping season is approaching. Women are spending more online now than at any time since the advent of e-commerce, and costly items like clothing, travel and cosmetics top their shopping lists.

“Beauty is about to explode online,” said Donna L. Hoffman, co-director of the Sloan Center for Internet Retailing at the University of California, Riverside. “It’s been quietly generating momentum for a year or two, but now the big sites are taking advantage of many new features to really sell some stuff.”

Chief among them, Ms. Hoffman said, was Lancôme from L’Oréal, which recently overhauled its Web site. Online sales for the company, which also sells cosmetics through retailers like Bloomingdale’s, have grown steadily over the last few years; Lancôme-usa. com is now considered the company’s top-selling store in the country.

But according to Sarah Williams, who heads Lancôme’s e-commerce team, those sales came despite many flaws on the Web site. “A lot of people, when they were on the site, didn’t even realize this was a shopping site,” Ms. Williams said.

The company revamped and reintroduced the site this summer. Ms. Williams said it takes advantage of technology that allows shoppers to get more information on an item without having to click to another page.

•

Shoppers who wish to learn more about a certain type of lipstick, for instance, can click on one of the many Quick Shop icons on the site. From there, a small window appears with a description and an offer to add the product to the shopping cart or wish list. Visitors can receive beauty tutorials and other information without being redirected away from the original product.

This approach, pioneered by Gap two years ago, “means you just don’t use the back buttons anymore,” Ms. Williams said. “The concept of going back, online, is over.”

She said one of the most successful innovations of the Web site is a remake of the Discontinued Items section, which now suggests replacements for the many products that are shelved during a given year. “One of the biggest customer complaints across the industry is that we’re all constantly discontinuing items,” she said. “Now, customers know when something’s gone, and they can get recommended replacements.”

The number of Web site visitors who make a purchase rose 20 percent right after the new site was introduced, Ms. Williams said, and the number of shoppers who abandoned their carts dropped to 30 percent from 50 percent.

Now, Bloomingdale’s, a division of Macy’s, has chosen this line of products to help lead it back into the e-commerce market. In August, Bloomingdales.com introduced a cosmetics section that represents the first full product line sold on its site since the company abandoned online selling in early 2002.

At that time, Bloomingdale’s attributed the move to lackluster appetite among customers for the company’s limited online product assortment. Now, the retailer has technology and warehouse systems in place to offer a wider assortment of items in major categories, according to Francine Klein, executive vice president at Bloomingdale’s.

“We recognized the Internet is something that’s an important option for the customer, and we were not availing ourselves of that,” Ms. Klein said of the strategy shift.

Seventy percent of the cosmetics products available in Bloomingdale’s stores are now for sale on the Web site, Ms. Klein said, and the rest will be added by the end of January. “A big percentage of this business is replenishment,” she said of the cosmetics category. “And this is a very convenient way to do that.”

In rejoining the online beauty competition, Bloomingdale’s has had good timing in at least one respect. Gloss.com, the online partnership between the cosmetics brands Estée Lauder, Chanel and Clarins, shut down this summer, a move the company’s executives partly attributed to the fact that consumers prefer to shop on brand-specific Web sites.

Statistics from comScore Networks, an online consultancy, seem to bear that out. Of the five most popular sites for fragrances and cosmetics, only Sephora.com, a unit of LVMH, sells multiple brands. (Avon leads all other sites by a wide margin, while Sephora is second.)

•

Ms. Hoffman, of the Sloan Center, said the multibrand retailing approach of Sephora is still viable, because in contrast to Gloss.com, Sephora has invested heavily in its own brand. “Sephora really paved the way in this category, and showed other retailers this could work online,” she said.

Sales in the beauty category rose 22 percent last year, according to Forrester Research, an online consulting firm, slightly less than the overall e-commerce increase of 25 percent. Forrester recently predicted that the category’s sales would jump 25 percent this year, compared with 18 percent for the online retail industry over all.

llison Slater, Sephora’s vice president for marketing, said the company revamped its Web site late last year. It has recently added features allowing customers to quickly find new products, like a $250 hair removal device called the NoNo that Sephora is selling exclusively.

This summer, Sephora introduced a loyalty program, which rewards online and offline shoppers for repeat purchases. Ms. Slater said the company would take what it learned from those purchases and offer more personalized services and product recommendations by e-mail. “It’s all about getting more personalized,” she said. “Once we know a client’s preferences, we can speak to them more effectively about what they want.”

Sephora Nano Eye Pencil Long Lasting, NEW and 100% Genuine


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When Beauty Is More Than a Click Deep

The number of Web site visitors who make a purchase rose 20 percent right after the new site was introduced, Ms. Williams said, and the number of shoppers who abandoned their carts dropped to 30 percent from 50 percent.

Now, Bloomingdale’s, a division of Macy’s, has chosen this line of products to help lead it back into the e-commerce market. In August, Bloomingdales.com introduced a cosmetics section that represents the first full product line sold on its site since the company abandoned online selling in early 2002.

At that time, Bloomingdale’s attributed the move to lackluster appetite among customers for the company’s limited online product assortment. Now, the retailer has technology and warehouse systems in place to offer a wider assortment of items in major categories, according to Francine Klein, executive vice president at Bloomingdale’s.

“We recognized the Internet is something that’s an important option for the customer, and we were not availing ourselves of that,” Ms. Klein said of the strategy shift.

Seventy percent of the cosmetics products available in Bloomingdale’s stores are now for sale on the Web site, Ms. Klein said, and the rest will be added by the end of January. “A big percentage of this business is replenishment,” she said of the cosmetics category. “And this is a very convenient way to do that.”

In rejoining the online beauty competition, Bloomingdale’s has had good timing in at least one respect. Gloss.com, the online partnership between the cosmetics brands Estée Lauder, Chanel and Clarins, shut down this summer, a move the company’s executives partly attributed to the fact that consumers prefer to shop on brand-specific Web sites.

Statistics from comScore Networks, an online consultancy, seem to bear that out. Of the five most popular sites for fragrances and cosmetics, only Sephora.com, a unit of LVMH, sells multiple brands. (Avon leads all other sites by a wide margin, while Sephora is second.)

90,000 I generally rub in everyone how thrifty and economical I am. Straight 150 …

I generally rub in everyone how thrifty and economical I am. Straight 150 piggy banks I have, 3 savings accounts … True, I never finished saving nirazu in my opinion.
In the morning I woke up full of determination to prepare for the exam all day. She took the children to school, returned home, and then it turned out that the refrigerator itself does not synthesize food, which means it would be necessary to move to the store. And it’s too lazy to prepare for the exam, and I would have looked at the boots in advance to grab them at discounts without trying on, and then the salary with the scholarship has successfully dropped into the account.In general, everything came together so that it was straightforward to go to the shopping center. So I went. Here I can praise myself, I at least laid out a part of the cash from my wallet, but you never know what …
I arrived. For food. And see the boots. Directly the installation is in the head: “boots and food.” I walked around 2-3 shops, nothing interesting, and then a sephora loomed on the horizon! And I just ran out of ink. And so I already wrote in my brains: “food, boots and ink.” Right here in a straight line to walk 15 meters and Sephora, but … But! Here I notice with a peripheral vision on the right soleil sucre.And I think: “Well, when will I still go for a walk around the shops, eh? I’ll just look, try it on … and there may already be discounts.” Well, I went in and tried it on. And then the seller says: “if you have a customer card, then the discounts are already valid today.” Discounts and beauty! Beauty and discounts! And now I am already at the checkout, and here I also managed to grab some more cowards, some kind of crap in my eyes, with which I will never sleep and “please show me that belt.” She came out so pleased. Precisely in Sephora! And then I forgot something about my installation… I remember that there were exactly 3 things. I took mascara, base and powder. Then I thought that the children had more gifts on Ng, and in general you can see what else there are. And then there were shadows and blushes, shower gel and foam. And a set of este lauder with mascara and fondant. And it cost just as much as my clinic ink. And then I would put the clinics and take a set, but what if Este Lauder has bad mascara ??? What then? I had to take everything. I had to! There was simply no other way out. I enriched the Sephora, ruined myself, and went for food.I walk towards Carrefour, already at the finish line, and then I understand that my tassels are already a hundred years old at lunchtime. Brushes are very important! Highly! This is generally basic! And I went to the poppy. Everything was in a daze … I gave the last cash. I got to Carrefour, bought some food and went home. I go to the bus, I can barely spend all my bags and … And funnack! And the column! I suffered a lot without a speaker! Now I can suffer with the column))
And here I am sitting here in my cosmetics and underwear, listening to music … And I don’t regret sales. I don’t understand Hebrew.Only the set with mascara and lipstick disappointed. There is no lipstick, but a pomaaaadochka, straight for a doll, such a milipuska. But the color is nothing. So you need a small clutch, under the lipstick, yes.
It was a bad idea to give me money for the New Year. And if I go through the discounts on Thursday, then you can forget about food this month. It’s good that at least I managed to buy and change tickets in the morning for a couple of trips, otherwise I would have sat at home sad and painted in slutty trousers)
I remembered the song: “kaaak you were lucky, whoa my bride! Tomorrow we are going to spend all our , all your money! Together! “) I had to guess on Ng, so that someone was so lucky with me)

How smart technologies are used in the beauty industry – Wonderzine

Text: Daria Burkova

In modern In the world, the production of products using nanotechnology has already become commonplace: without microscopic particles with a given sequence of atoms, we would not have flash drives with a volume of even ten gigabytes.Nanoparticles (the prefix “nano” means one billionth of a meter) has been studied since the middle of the 20th century, and now technologies have become so simple and relatively cheap that they are used not only in the creation of chips and microcircuits, but also in the cosmetics industry. We figure out why this is done, how it happens, whether the manufacturers are lying and whether there is any sense in all this.

Liposomes, nanosomes and photosomes



It may seem surprising, but nanotechnology began to be used in the manufacture of cosmetics in the early 90s.Of course, at first, such cosmetics were intended only for professional use. Now, in the composition of creams and serums, you can find the so-called microcapsules, which you will know for sure from product advertisements and the presence of the word “micro” in the title. Strictly speaking, nanoparticles have a size from 1 to 100 nm, and the prefix “micro” is added to those that are larger. Microcapsules are spherical molecules ranging in size from 50 to 200 nanometers with a predetermined sequence of atoms that easily pass through the stratum corneum of the skin due to their miniature size and deliver the active ingredients contained in them to the deep layers of the skin.

The very first and most popular type of microcapsule is liposomes. Products created using this nanotechnology are even classified as a separate group of liposomal cosmetics. So what are liposomes? “Because of their composition and structure, liposomes are unique ingredients. Their membrane consists of lecithin, which has a high degree of stability: it contains water- and fat-soluble areas, which gives lecithin the properties of a natural emulsifier, – says Elena Pasternak, head of the medical department of the Sesderma representative office in Russia.- Lecithin, in turn, consists of phospholipids, which have both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties – they simultaneously attract and repel water. Once in a certain environment, phospholipids swell and form one or several (up to tens and hundreds) of closed biological layers, which form microcapsules. The layers of the walls of such capsules form a semi-permeable membrane that easily permeates water, but at the same time retains the active substances in it. ”

Thanks to phospholipids, the structure of liposomes is similar to the cell membrane, so they are easily absorbed by the body.It is also believed that soy lecithin liposomes are the most stable: they harmoniously combine strength and plasticity. The main advantage of liposomes over other microcapsules is that they can contain several ingredients at once, both inside the capsule and in its membrane. Substances can be very different: vitamins, acids, plant extracts, amino acids, enzymes, enzymes, trace elements, hormones and antibiotics.

A subspecies of liposomes are nanosomes, the shell of which is made of just one layer of phospholipids.Nanosomes can contain only one active ingredient (for example, vitamin E), and they are most widely used in the production of cosmetics due to their relative cheapness and ease of manufacture. In addition to lecithin, microcapsules with polymer shells are very popular – they are used primarily for the delivery of fat-soluble components. It is worth knowing that almost every cosmetic company patents its own type of microcapsules and gives them a separate trade name, which is often quite complex and memorable.You can safely close your eyes to all this: the meaning of the work of nanocapsules does not change from the name change. They can be identified by the presence of messages in the advertisement in the spirit of “the active ingredients are delivered directly to the cells unchanged.”

Another concept that can be found more and more often now is photosomes. In fact, this is just a separate type of liposome, which contain light-sensitive enzymes to repair and protect skin DNA cells from ultraviolet radiation.

Substitution of concepts

The average permeability of healthy skin is about 100 nanometers, and the size of the smallest deposits used in cosmetics is 50 nanometers.Responsible manufacturers use soy lecithin liposomes up to 150 nanometers in size – they can still achieve the goal due to their plasticity, but microcapsules made of polymers 500 nanometers in size, alas, will not pass through the epidermis unchanged. Unfortunately, our iPhones do not yet have built-in scanners to determine the size of nanoparticles, so you have to rely on fear, risk and manufacturing documentation on the Internet when buying products with microcapsules.

Another problem with nanotechnology in the production of cosmetics is the substitution of concepts due to the lack of official wording explaining what, in principle, can be considered nanotechnology in this area.As a result, manufacturers may call nanocosmetics not products with microcapsules or products that were made using nanotechnology, but creams and serums with nano-sized ingredients. These, for example, include sodium and potassium salts of fatty acids (their size is from 1 to 3 nanometers), which are found in ordinary soap.

Cefine beautician Elena Karminskaya says that the technology for making and using soap was developed by the famous Swiss alchemist Paracelsus in 1520.However, Paracelsus was not the first nanotechnologist in history. History has preserved information about ancient cosmetics used by Queen Cleopatra. Central to these foods were olive and other vegetable oils and animal fats, the molecules of which were several nanometers in size. The traditions of using mineral cosmetics (clay, ocher, lapis lazuli powder), according to archaeologists, date back to the Stone Age. The most valuable are powders with a minimum particle size of these agents, reaching tens to hundreds of nanometers.Mineral powders and powders are also used in modern cosmetics.

Why do you need nanocapsules

Microcapsules are a kind of containers and are used to transport active ingredients of cosmetics through the epidermis into the deep layers of the skin. Reaching the goal, microcapsules release the delivered substances, and liposomes also participate in the work of cells. For example, in the regeneration of cells or the transformation of some molecules into others. The use of capsules allows not only to overcome the barrier of the stratum corneum of the skin, but also to reduce the required amount of the active ingredient itself, since it is delivered directly to the target, which reduces the risk of skin irritation, for example, from retinol or glycolic acid (they are placed in capsules for this purpose) …And that’s not all: since phospholipids in liposomes are perceived by skin cells as related molecules, they receive specific signals from cells that need active substances the most, and deliver the ingredient to them in the first place. This is how the so-called smart cosmetics work. “Nanoparticles are capable of absorbing and transporting active substances, as well as accelerating various reactions at the cellular level,” says Anastasia Kontaurova, training manager at BABOR. “The ingredients, reduced to nano-size, easily interact with skin cells, as a result of which self-healing mechanisms of cells are triggered, protective properties are activated and the work of the body’s own resources is increased.”

Cosmetics with microcapsules are actively used in salon care in combination with hardware techniques (microcurrents, iontophoresis, phototherapy). In beauty salons, such procedures are presented as a substitute for injections. And this has its own truth: initially, microcapsules were made precisely in order to deliver to the deep layers of the skin with the help of cosmetics those ingredients that previously could only be carried there with the help of an injection. In addition, there are already toothpastes with encapsulated microelements for enamel restoration and eye drops in the form of a spray that must be applied to the eyelids with closed eyes: miniature liposomes pass through the skin and deliver moisturizing components to the mucous membrane.

Photos: Babor, Stop Karies, Sesderma, Chanel, Sephora (1, 2)

DAKITI – Bad Bunny Lyrics

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Baby, ya yo me enteré, se nota cuando me ve ‘

Ahí donde no has llega’o sabe’ que yo te llevaré
Y dime qué quiere ‘beber, es que tú ere’ mi bebé
¿Y de nosotro ‘quién va a hablar? Si no nos dejamo ‘ver
Y a vece’ e ‘Dolce, a vece’ Bulgari
Cuando te lo quito despué ‘de lo’ partie ‘
Las copa ‘de vino, las libra’ de mari
Tú estás bien suelta, yo de safari
Tú mueve ‘el c * lo fenomenal
Pa’ yo devorarte como animal
Si no te ha ‘venío’, yo te vo’a esperar
En mi cama y lo vo’a celebrar
Baby, a ti no me opongo
Y siempre te lo pongo
Y si tú me tira ‘, vamo’ a nadar en lo hondo
Si e ‘por mí te lo pongo
De septiembre hasta agosto
A mí sin cojone ‘a lo que digan tu’ amiga ‘
Ya yo me enteré, se nota cuando me ve’
Ahí donde no ha ‘llega’o sabe’ que yo te llevare
Y dime qué quiere ‘beber, e’ que tú ere ‘mi bebé
¿Y de nosotro’ quién va a hablar? Si no nos dejamo ‘ver (¿Me sigue’?)
Mami, me tiene ‘juquea’o, sí
Si fuera’ la Uru ‘, me tuviese’ parquea ‘ o
Dando vuelta ‘por Condado, contigo siempre arrebata’o
Tú no ere’ mi señora, pero
Toma cinco mil, gástalo en65 Sephora
Louis Vuitton, ya no compra en Pandora
Como piercing, a los hombre ‘perfora, eh-eh-eh
Hace tiempo le rompieron el cora (El cora)
Estudiosa, puesta pa ‘ser doctora (Doctora)
Pero (Pero), le gustan los títere’ wheeliando motora ‘(Motora’)
Yo estoy pa ‘ti las veinticuatro hora’
Baby, a ti no me opongo
Y siempre te lo pongo (Yo te lo pongo)
Y si tú me tira ‘, vamo’ a nadar en lo hondo ( Nadar en lo hondo)
Si es por mí te lo pongo
De septiembre hasta agosto
Y a mí sin cojone ‘lo que digan tu’ amiga ‘
Ya yo me enteré, se nota cuando me ve ‘
Ahí donde no ha’ llega’o sabe ‘que yo te llevare
Y dime qué quiere’ beber , e ‘que tú ere’ mi bebé
¿Y de nosotro ‘quién va a hablar? Si no nos dejamo ‘ver
Y a vece’ e ‘Dolce, a vece’ Bulgari
Cuando te lo quito despué ‘de lo partie’
La ‘ copa ‘de vino, las libra’ de mari
Tú estás bien suelta, yo de safari
Tú mueve ‘el c * lo fenomenal
Pa’ yo devorarte como animal
Si no te ha ‘venío’, yo te vo’a esperar
En mi cama y lo vo’a celebrar

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DAKITI lyrics Translation russian

Baby, I already found out, it shows when you see me “
Where you didn’t come” or you know “that I’ll take you
and tell me what you want ”to drink, this is what you are“ my child ”
And who’s going to talk about us? If we do not see “
and sometimes“ e ”Dolce, sometimes Bulgari
When I take it after“ I Part ”
Glass of wine , pound “Mari
You are very free, I am
” m on safari you move ‘Phenomenal c * lo
Pa’ I devour you like an animal
If you didn’t come, I’ll wait for you
In my bed and I’ll celebrate it
Baby, I’m not against you
And I I always put this on you
And if you He leaves me, let’s go swimming in the depths
yes f ‘
I have no balls “to the fact that your” friend “says that
I already found out, it shows when he sees me”
Where he has not “arrived” or knows that I will take you
And tell me what he wants “to drink, and what are you” “my child
Who will talk about us”? LET US if we will not “see (will you me?)
WE, I have” juquea’o, yes
was “Hooray” I was “parquea ‘ o
Turning “county, you always arrebata’o
You are not ERE” Milady, but
take five thousand, spend in Sephora
Louis Vuitton, you won’t buy on Pandora anymore.
Like piercing, male piercing, ah-ah.
Some time ago they broke his heart (Heart)
Put it down diligently
But (But) he likes the ‘wheeliando motora’ puppets
I’m here for you 24 hours’
Baby, I’m not against you
And I always put it on you (I’ll put it on you)
And if you leave me ‘let’s go’ swim deep (swim deep)
If this is for me, I’ll put it on you
September to August
And I have no ball ‘what your’ friend ‘says
I already found out, it shows when you see me’
Where he has not “arrived” or does not know that I will take you
And tell me that you want to “drink” and that you are “my child”
And who will speak about us? If we do not let us see
And sometimes Dolce, sometimes Bulgari,
When I take it off after I have parted
You very free, i’m on safari
you move “phenomenal s * s
Ra” I devour you like an animal
If you do not “come”, I will wait you
in my bed and I will celebrate

Teaser: Collection of varnishes from SEPHORA by OPI

Today, clearing the debris of photos that are reducing my free disk space with a catastrophic speed and the same amount, I came across a photo of a pile of varnishes from different SEPHORA by OPI collections, bought in early autumn.And, it suddenly became so sorry to delete them, already knowing that Sephora stopped producing varnishes under this brand, that she decided to publish a teaser post – let there be a dozen more mentions and photos of the wonderful S: OPI varnishes on the network.))

Here they are – my first and most likely the last S: OPI varnishes, in the exact amount of 21 bottles.

Glitter tops in green (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Light, Glammer A, Action!
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Spark-tacular! Top Coat

Glitter tops in red-violet-lilac palette (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Be-Claus I Said So
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats G-listen To Your Heart
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Sugar Plum Fairies Gone Wild
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Mauve-ie Star In The Making

Glitter tops in copper and gold (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Traffic Stopper Copper
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats I Found a Pot of Gold!
SEPHORA by OPI Jewelry Top Coats Come To Paparazzi

Creamy varnishes (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Happy Earth Day To Me,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Screen Test,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Let’s Plié,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Just a Little Dangerous ,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color In The Shadows

Three distinct metallic colors (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color I’m With Brad,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Go My Own Way,
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Leaf Him At The Altar

Three beautiful glitter-shimmer varnishes (from left to right):
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Looks Like Rain, Dear
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color I Only Shop Vintage
SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color 212-Sephora (also with mica)

One and only pearlescent varnish SEPHORA by OPI Nail Color Wardrobe Change

And 2 sets of minilacs.

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