|Pen Name||Nib Removable?||Feed Removable?|
|A.G. Spalding & Bros BRFT180 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Art Alternatives Pen & Ink Sketch Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Aurora Ipsilon Lacquer Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Aurora Style Gemstone Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Aurora Style Rose Gold Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Aurora TU Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|BENU Briolette Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|BENU Minima Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|BIGiDESIGN Ti Ultra Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Caran d’Ache 849 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Conklin Duraflex Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Conklin Herringbone Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
Copic Comic Drawing Pen
|Diplomat Optimist Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Eboya Ricchiku Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Faber-Castell Design Ambition Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Faber-Castell Design Ondoro Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Faber-Castell E-Motion Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Faber-Castell Essentio Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Faber-Castell Loom Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Faber-Castell NEO Slim Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Fine Writing International Bronze Age Brass Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|J. Herbin Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Karas Kustoms Fountain K Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Karas Kustoms Ink Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco AC Sport Carbon Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco AL Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Brass Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Calligraphy Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Chess Print Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Classic Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Dia2 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Elegance Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Elite Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Frosted Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Ice Sport Glow Highlighter Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Liliput Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Perkeo Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Skyline Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Kaweco Special AL Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Steel Sport Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Student Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kaweco Supra Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Kuretake Yumeginga Dream Galaxy Antler Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|LAMY 2000 Fountain Pen||Yes, inserted||No|
|LAMY ABC Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Aion Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY AL-Star Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY CP1 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Dialog 3 Fountain Pen||Yes, inserted||No|
|LAMY Joy Calligraphy Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Logo Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Lx Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Nexx Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Safari Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Scala Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Studio Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|LAMY Vista Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Monami Olika Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Monteverde Jewelria Executive Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Moonman 80 Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Moonman C1 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Moonman M2 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Moonman Wancai Mini Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Nagasawa Original Pro Gear Slim Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Nagasawa Original Profit Jr. Skeleton Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Nagasawa Profit Skeleton Proske Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Nagasawa Pro Color Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Nakabayashi Artnavi Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Noodler’s Ahab Flex Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Noodler’s Konrad Flex Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Noodler’s Triple Tail Flex Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ohto Dude Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ohto Giza Fountain Pen||
Yes, friction fit
|Ohto Jazz Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ohto Proud Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ohto Tasche Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Onishi Seisakusho Cellulose Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|ONLINE Slope Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|ONLINE Switch Plus Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Opus 88 Demo Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Opus 88 Koloro Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Opus 88 Omar Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Parker IM Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Parker Sonnet Fountain Pen||Yes, twist fit||Yes|
|Parker Vector Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pelikan Classic M120 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Classic M200 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Classic M205 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Classic P200 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Pelikano Junior Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pelikan Souveran M600 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Souveran M800 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Souveran M805 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Souveran M815 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Souveran Stresemann M405 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||No|
|Pelikan Twist Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Pentel Tradio Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Capless Fermo Fountain Pen||Yes, inserted||No|
|Pilot Cavalier Fountain Pen||No||Yes|
|Pilot Custom 74 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Custom 823 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Custom 912 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Custom Heritage 92 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Custom Maple Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Custom NS Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Elabo Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Elite 95S Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Pilot Falcon Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Grance Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Justus 95 Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Pilot Kakuno Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Lady White Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Pilot Lucina Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Maki-e Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Parallel Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Pilot Penmanship Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Petit1 Mini Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Plumix Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Prera Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot Vanishing Point Fountain Pen||Yes, inserted||No|
|Pilot Varsity Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Pilot VPen Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Platinum 3776 Century Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Platinum Kanazawa Leaf Fountain Pen||Yes, inserted||Yes|
|Platinum Plaisir Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Platinum Prefounte Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Platinum Preppy Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
|Platinum Procyon Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||No|
Regal 117 Alice Fountain Pen
|Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Regal 286 Author Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Regal 503 Hadrian Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Regal 82 William Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Retro 51 Tornado Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Rotring ArtPenCalligraphy Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Sailor 1911 Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Sailor Pro Gear Slim Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Schmidt Intrinsic Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Tachikawa Comic Nib Fountain Pen||No||No|
|Tactile Turn Gist Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Tombow Zoom 101 Carbon Fiber Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|TWSBI Classic Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Diamond 580 Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Diamond 580AL Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Diamond 580ALR Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Diamond Mini AL Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Diamond Mini Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI ECO Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|TWSBI ECO-T Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|TWSBI GO Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|TWSBI Precision Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Vac Mini Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|TWSBI Vac700R Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Visconti Van Gogh Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|VivaPen Space Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Waldmann Edelfeder Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Pocket Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Solon Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Tango Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Tuscany Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Two-In-One Fountain and Ballpoint Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waldmann Xetra Vienna Fountain Pen||Yes, nib collar||Yes|
|Waterman Expert Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Waterman Hemisphere Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Waterman Perspective Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ystudio Desk Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Ystudio Portable Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Zebra Zensations Fountain Pen||Yes, friction fit||Yes|
|Zebra V301 Fountain Pens||No||No|
How To Swap Lamy Fountain Pen Nibs
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In case you didn’t know it, one of the best features of Lamy fountain pens (aside from the Lamy 2000) is that they use a modular nib system. That’s right — you can pull the nib off your Lamy Al-Star and put it on your Safari. Or you can take the gold nib from your Scala and put it on your Vista.
Swapping your Lamy nib is an incredibly easy process once you get the hang of it. Here are a few ways to change those nibs…
The Basics of Changing a Lamy Nib
First of all, you should know that you can change the nib on a pen that is fully inked. Removing the nib from an ink-filled pen is a bit of a gamble since it could drip if you touch the feed, but simply removing the nib won’t cause any sort of ink explosion or flood.
All you really need to know is this Lamy nibs slide off the pen. If you pull the nib forward, it will come off. In this case forward means down, away from the pen body. In other words, towards the paper if you were writing.
The Best Way to Safely Remove the Nib
Your impulse might be to just grab the nib and yank it off your pen. Sure what would probably work, but it would make a mess. That little slit on the top of the nib can let out a lot of ink, so you want to keep your hands away from it, unless if the pen is recently cleaned or has never been used.
You could also try to pull from the nib’s sides but you are going to have to really pinch the nib, possibly bending it. Keep in mind that the nib is relatively tough when moved up-and-down but not pinched inwards.
Some people like to use their nails to pinch the ball at the end of the nib and pull that. This is hard to do, relatively messy, and it requires grabbing the most sensitive part of the pen. Does it work? Yes. Is it recommended? Definitely not.
The best two to remove a Lamy fountain pen nib is to get a piece of low-to-medium adhesion tape (like scotch tape) and put it over the top of the nib. Use this to as a clean surface to pull while you hold the body of the pen steady, or even pull it way from the nib. Later just discard the tape, clean the nib, and you are good to go.
Another way to do this is by using a small patch of grippy shelf liner to hold the nib and pull it off. This stuff is incredibly useful and super cheap so even if you get a little ink on it, it’s no big deal to throw it out.
How To Put a Nib on a Lamy
This is the easy part. Simply hold the clean nib by its sides and push the nib on the plastic feed. Any pressure should be on applied on the vertical pieces and the flat horizontal folds, not on the angled piece at the top and never on the writing tip.
Which Lamy Nibs are Interchangeable?
The nibs from the following fountain pens will work on the rest of the pens on the list.
- Dialog 3
Pro tip: These are the same pens that use the Lamy T10 cartridge!
It doesn’t matter whether the nib is gold or steel, black or silver, or old (completely unmarked) or new (it will say “Lamy” and the size on it). You’ll just want to be more careful with any gold nibs as they are more flexible, more expensive, more prone to bending, and less likely to spring back into shape after being pushed too far or too hard.
What that you should be all set. Best of luck, and proceed slowly.
Fountain Pen Nib Size & Replacement Guide
Every fountain pen uses a nib to write with and it is made up of three parts which are the nib, ink feed, and the nib housing. When these three parts are assembled, they are fitted to the bottom end of the pen in what’s known as the nib section.
Many fountain pen nib units are manufacturer specific and cannot be interchanged with other manufacturers fountain pens. However, there are some nib manufacturers whose nibs are interchangeable with different makes of fountain pens. In this guide, we will cover all the main manufacturer’s nibs and nib sizes as well as how to replace the nibs.
1. Nib Manufacturers
In the early days, a lot of the fountain pen brands made their own nibs in house but today that is not the case. The two powerhouses in nib manufacturing are Japan and Germany. Other countries do make nibs such as France and India and it could be argued that China could be considered a powerhouse purely from a volume of manufactured nibs’ point of view.
1.1. Japanese Nib Manufacturers
The three main Japanese companies that manufacture nibs are Pilot, Platinum, and Sailor. Although there may are some smaller independent companies such as Nakaya whose craftsmen all previously worked for Platinum.
The Japanese nibs are made in house by each brand which makes them have different characteristics than other brands. It is worth noting that a Japanese medium & broad nib line width is roughly equivalent to a western nib. However, a fine and extra-fine are narrower by about one size. So, a Japanese fine nib line width is more closely related to a western extra fine and their extra-fine nib is a size down from that.
1.2. German Nib Manufacturers
This is where nib manufacturing starts to get interesting like Japan there are German pen brands that make their own fountain pen nibs in house such as Lamy and Pelikan. However, there are two main specialist nib manufacturers who produce nibs that are a standardized size that is used by many different pen brands. Although they also produce custom sizes as well.
These are Bock and Jowo and are usually known as #5 and #6 nibs. Bock uses a three-digit code to denote size. 250 is their standard size which is equivalent to a Jowo #6 and 180 is their standard size which is equivalent to a Jowo #5. Generally speaking, it is possible if the fountain pen has a friction fit nib then you can swap #5 nibs with other #5 nibs and #6 nibs with other #6 nibs. However, you cannot swap a #5 nib with a #6 nib or vice versa as a #5 nib and feed is a lot slimmer and shorter than a #6 nib.
There is one caveat here “generally speaking” there are some nibs that cannot be swapped even if they are both a #5 or a #6. You can permanently damage your fountain pen if you get it wrong our advice would be to do an internet search for how to swap the nib on your brand and model of pen. Then search a forum such as The Fountain Pen Network. If you cannot find the answer, then ask a question on the Fountain Pen Network and somebody will be able to help you. Alternatively, you can ask a question on the fountain pen sub edit r/fountainpens.
Speaking of Reddit there is a very good subreddit on swapping Jowo #6 nibs that is well worth taking a look at.
2. Chinese Nibs
The fun really starts when it comes to Chinese fountain pen nibs it is a minefield trying to determine who the manufacturer of a nib on most Chinese fountain pens really is. When you throw into the mix that when some German nib manufacturers went out of business their equipment was bought up by Asian companies. So, you will find some Chinese nibs stamped with Iridium point Germany as they have not changed the dies and lets face it it’s not bad from a marketing point of view even though the nib has never seen Germany in its life.
On the plus side #5 nibs are quite common on Chinese pens and usually can be swapped out for a different no 5 nib. However, you will need to do some research first before trying to swap a nib as not every #5 nib will work in every #5 nib pen.
An example of this is a Delike fountain pen nib uses a number 5 nib but the nib is shorter and slimmer so the feed would not work properly if you swapped out the nib. Another example is the Wing Sung 659 & 698 can take a number 5 nib but it is Pilot style nib and feed, so it is not compatible with Bock & Jowo #5 Nibs.
There are also some Chinese pens that take a #6 nib The Jinaho X750 is a very popular inexpensive Chinese fountain pen with a #6 nib. This is often swapped for a German Bock or Jowo replacement nib. Also, a lot of people swap the nib for a Japanese Zebra G Super Flex steel nib which is also a #6 nib and only costs a few dollars.
3. Replacing a Fountain Pen Nib
So how do you replace a fountain pen nib and fit something different to it. Before you go diving in a quick disclaimer removing a fountain pen nib can permanently damage your nib and pen. If you choose to do so it as at your own risk and I cannot be held responsible.
My advice would be to practice on cheaper Chinese fountain pens first and if in any doubt don’t try it out on more expensive pens. Now that’s out of the way nearly all fountain pen nibs can be removed and replaced.
It may be a few years old but Kevin over at Fountain Pen Revolution does a good job of showing how to replace a nib and feed in this video.
3.1. Friction Nibs
You may have already seen people on YouTube simply pulling the nib and feed out of the end of the pen. These are what’s known as friction fit and the best type for swapping your own nib but there are other types that we will go into more detail.
Things to bear in mind is when replacing friction fit nib and feed is that the nib housing may have a small locating groove cut into it so you will need to make sure that the feed is sat in the center of the nib and orientated correctly so that its locating lug will fit in the locating groove of the feed.
It sounds complicated but isn’t too bad when you have the nib and feed out of the nib housing. Hold the nib housing up to the light and you will see if there is a locating groove cut into the wall of the housing.
3.2. Threaded Nibs
Some fountain pens such as Kaweco have a nib and feed that it is pre-assembled in a housing with a threaded end that screws into the barrel. With these types of pens, it is best to swap the complete nib unit as you may not be able to take it further apart without damaging it.
Changing Screw-in Nib Units
(This page revised October 15, 2015)
While this is a wonderful feature on several models of pens such as (but not exclusive to) Gate City, Bexley, and Pelikan, it is not without hazards. Being able to change a nib unit from an extra fine point accountant nib to a 0.8mm cursive italic will make your fountain pen very versatile. However, some of the problems that you can encounter can cause irreparable damage. It is very easy to misalign or bend the nib or even break the feed, so please proceed with caution and only attempt once you are fully familiar with the procedure.
Your first step it to prepare your pen. It is easiest to do this with an empty pen but not impossible with a full one. If you have a cartridge or a cartridge converter in your pen, you will need to remove it first. If it is a piston filler, then you will just need to insure the nib is pointed up if it is full of ink. The nib units screw in clockwise and screw out counter clockwise.
To remove the nib unit from your pen, hold the pen in your “weaker” hand. (If you are right handed, this is your left hand.) Place the ball of your “stronger” hand’s thumb on the top surface of the nib and wrap that hand’s index finger around underneath the feed to cradle it in the joint closest to the fingertip. If you are up too high on the nib, you stand a bigger chance of damaging the nib. The closer to the section you can get, the better. (Cradling the nib unit in this way provides better support for some nibs’ fragile feed fins than holding it with your thumb on the feed and your finger on the nib.) Squeeze firmly, applying pressure to hold the nib and feed together, and then “unscrew” the pen, not the nib, with your other hand until the nib assembly comes loose. If it seems really stuck, stop! Soak the nib end of the pen in cool water or J.B.’s PERFECT PEN FLUSH for a few minutes, and try again. Once the nib assembly is loose, unscrew the pen the rest of the way.
To install a nib into the pen, reverse the above procedure. Screw the pen onto the nib until it stops, and then “tweak” it just a little further so that it turns against resistance. The ideal installation has the nib firmly finger tight, neither loose enough to work its way free nor forced until the pen “cries out in pain.”
You can even change nibs while your pen is filled — but when you do this with a self-filling pen, you should be careful to hold the pen with its nib end upward, not downward as shown in the illustrations on this page. If you forget to do this, you might find yourself wearing a penful of ink. (With a cartridge/converter pen, of course, you remove the cartridge or converter first, so there’s no risk of ink spillage so long as you remember to hold the cartridge or converter so that its open end does not point downward.)
This information is © RichardsPens.com. Used with permission.
Maintaining a Fountain Pen – Levenger
Cleaning your fountain pen
- Unscrew the barrel from the nib section.
- Rinse the nib by filling and emptying it with water (repeat this until the water is clear).
Caution: Ink residue will flow out.
- If the pen uses a cartridge/converter,
place the nib section into a beaker or other container of clean water and let it soak overnight.
- The water level should completely cover the nib.
- Be sure to use room temperature water. Distilled water will work best (tap water sometimes
contains particles which may clog the feed). Never use warm or hot water (heat will expand the
inner works of the pen) or alcohol, as these will damage the feed or other parts of the pen.
- Let the nib soak for 10 to 15 minutes, then blot dry with a paper towel. Soak the nib overnight
- Wash your pen every few weeks or whenever changing ink colors.
Using your fountain pen
- Do not press hard when writing, as this can damage the nib.
A good fountain pen should glide effortlessly across paper.
- Use fresh ink. Do not use bottled ink that is more than a year or two old. If you do use older ink,
you should first examine it for any mold that may be growing on the surface. Then stir the old ink to make
sure that there are no lumps or sediment on the bottom (a sign that the ink is solidifying). Thinner inks,
like Waterman, Sheaffer or Pelikan, are less likely to solidify than thicker inks. And if the ink has not been
used for several weeks, shake the bottle before filling the pen, as the ink particles may have settled a bit
- Black ink contains gum arabic. If you allow black ink to dry inside of the nib, it may cause permanent damage.
If you do not plan to use your fountain pen for more than a couple of days, clean your fountain pen before the ink
- Store your ink bottles away from direct sunlight to avoid fading.
- Avoid using chemically treated paper, which usually has a slick feel, because it does not absorb ink well.
Ink will collect in the nib and ultimately clog the feed. If your pen skips after using treated paper, wipe the
nib with a lint-free cloth. If this does not work, wash the pen out with water.
- When traveling by plane, we recommend that you either fill your converter completely or leave it empty to reduce
the risk of leakage. Always keep the nib upright during takeoff. When opening your fountain pen in flight, you should
hold the pen upright and remove the cap slowly. Always keep your pen capped when not in use.
- Do not loan your pen to anyone, as the nib will adapt to your writing style (i.e., pressure, angle).
- If your pen doesn’t “start” right away (i.e., after not being used for a couple of weeks), ink has probably
dried and clogged the nib and/or the feed. To start the ink flowing again, resist the urge to press down hard on
the pen. Instead, wet the point of the nib with water or ink of the same color. If that doesn’t work, wash the pen out.
Storing your fountain pen
- If you do not plan on using your pen for a prolonged period of time, wash and empty it out before storing it away.
- When not using the pen, keep it stored vertically (i.e., in a cup) with the nib pointing up to prevent ink from
settling in and clogging the feed.
If, after following these instructions, you still experience a problem with the flow of ink through
the nib, please call our Customer Care Department at 800-544-0880 and one of our care representatives will help you resolve
How to Fix Dried Up Fountain Pen in 5 Easy Steps
My Fountain Pen Dried Up – What Should I Do?
One of the beauties of fountain pens is the pleasure of writing with them. Therefore, a dry fountain pen is every writer’s worst nightmare. Over time, fountain pens can dry out if they are old or not used. When you’re expecting your nib to smoothly glide over the page only to find your fountain pen dried out, you might be wondering if your pen can be salvaged. Thankfully, there are a few easy steps to follow that can fix your dry fountain pen. You may not require all of the steps to fix your dry fountain pen, as the fix depends on the cause of the dryness. Additionally, if you are new to fountain pens, you may wish to explore our selection of the best budget fountain pens for beginners.
Fixing Your Dry Fountain Pen
Step 1 – Prepare
Before you begin trying to fix your pen, prepare your space by laying down some newspaper or paper towels. You might also wish to protect your clothes and wear some latex gloves to protect your skin from spilt ink.
Step 2 – Flush the dry fountain pen
Regardless of the pen’s age, a clogged fountain pen can lead to the nib drying out. This is why it is essential to clean the pen if it isn’t being used. If you think your fountain pen dried out because of clogging, the first step is to try flushing it with warm water. The best way to do this is by unscrewing the pen, removing the cartridge and pouring warm water into the feed and through the nib to flush out any hardened ink or sediment.
Step 3 – Check the cartridge
If you are using a cartridge converter style fountain pen, you can try to resume the flow of ink by unscrewing the body of the pen and gently squeezing the ink cartridge to see if you can force ink through the nib and solve any blockage issues.
Step 4 – Clean the nib of the dry fountain pen
Sometimes, ink can harden in the reservoir of the nib, making it difficult for wet ink to flow through the feed. To remedy this, give the nib of the dried fountain pen a thorough clean. Dip a stiff paintbrush into warm water mixed with washing up liquid and use the bristles to scrub residue off the nib. Be careful not to bend or distort the nib as this can cause irreparable damage. When the nib is clean, rinse with warm water and dry it with a lint-free rag or cloth. Try inserting a new ink cartridge and check if the ink is flowing. If this doesn’t work, remove the nib and soak it in the soapy water overnight.
Step 5 – Have the pen repaired
If none of the above steps is enough to solve the issue of your dry fountain pen, we have a repair service at The Pen Shop that can be of assistance for pens crafted by the brands we stock. Please visit our repairs page for more information.
For more helpful tips when it comes to caring for your fountain pen, please read our previous blog post.
How to clean a fountain pen – A guide
If you use and collect vintage fountain pens, you’ve probably tried to clean one at some stage, or at least wondered how to do it.
Cleaning old fountain pens can be a very messy affair, but if like us you love old pens, then it is something of a necessary evil, especially if you want to prolong the life and preserve the usage of the pen.
In short, here’s how to clean old fountain pens:
- Remove old ink cartridges if possible
- Remove nib and feed if possible
- Soak nib and assembly in cold, clean water for anywhere between 20 mins and two days, depending on the scale of the problem
- Rinse under cold running water
- Dry as thoroughly as possible with a lint-free cloth or towel
- You’re done!
Why do fountain pens need cleaning?
Pen manufacturers generally recommend cleaning fountain pens between each ink refill as best practice. Fountain pens are susceptible to picking up flecks of dust and dirt, which can clog the nib and lead to ink spills, blockages, and malfunctioning pens. Mould and oxidisation of the nib can also occur in older vintage fountain pens.
Ink can dry out in the nib if the pen is not stored correctly between uses. We advise that fountain pens should be stored with the cap on and the writing point up, to avoid it drying out. If you are not using your pen for a longer period, then ideally you should store your fountain pen in the original case or covering. This can help to avoid scratches and damage to the barrel of the pen. For more info about common fountain pen mistakes, check out this great video.
How to clean an old fountain pen
Cleaning a vintage fountain pen can often be a complicated and tricky procedure. It all depends on the type of fountain pen that you own, what kind of mechanism the pen has, the condition of the pen and how long it has been since it was last cleaned.
First things first, you’ll need to get ready and prepare an area in which to clean your pen.
Top tip: Wear old clothes or something that you don’t mind getting some ink on. We’ll be honest, this could get messy!
You’ll need some water, so the kitchen or utility room is often the best place to clean out your fountain pen. Putting down some old newspaper on your surfaces can help absorb any spillages.
How to clean a fountain pen with a removable nib
Cleaning fountain pen nibs that can be fully removed from the pen are probably the easiest type of pen to clean, as you can simply detach the nib section and place it in cool water to soak. After about 20 minutes, flush the nib through under lightly running water. This should remove any old or clogged ink.
You could also buy a bulb syringe to help you flush water through the mechanism – but be sure that you have a good seal, otherwise water (and ink) will squirt back at you! If you get it right, the water will flow through the nib and force the old ink out.
Be sure to dry the nib thoroughly using a soft cloth or old towel. Then reassemble the pen and add new ink as necessary.
Cleaning cartridge and converter fountain pens
Some of the more modern fountain pens have removable sections that can be cleaned. If you have one of these types of fountain pen, then remove the cartridge or converter and flush the nib and grip section under gently running water.
Converter fountain pens can be flushed out by drawing water up through the nib and forcing the water out.
If you’re unable to draw any water through, you might need to give the assembly a good long soak first.
You will need to keep flushing the pen out until all of the ink has gone and the water runs clear.
Once the pen is clean, lightly blow air through the nib section to remove any water, then dry the nib and grip section thoroughly with a cloth or towel.
We recommend leaving the pen to dry overnight before putting it back together and refilling with ink.
Cleaning dip pen nibs and older fountain pens
If your fountain pen has a fixed nib that is not easily removed from the body of the pen, then soaking it upright is really the only way to clean it. Most vintage fountain pen filling systems, including piston fillers, will need to be cleaned this way.
As you can’t soak the nib properly, it will often take considerable time to get a pen clean. You can leave the pen propped upright with just the nib part submerged overnight or even over the course of a few days, if necessary.
At the very least, you’ll probably have to fill and flush your pen out multiple times with clean water before you get all of the ink out of the nib and feed.
WARNING – if your pen has a joint between the nib section and the body, then keep the water level below the joint so that water does not seep into the body of the pen.
Can all fountain pens be cleaned with water?
The answer is no. Some modern pens will be fine if rinsed with cool water, however, the same cannot be said for vintage fountain pens. Our advice is that if you’re not sure then please don’t try this at home as you can end up damaging the pen instead of cleaning it.
Fountain pens that have metal parts such as caps and clips should only have limited water exposure. While it may be safe to quickly rinse them, you’ll need to ensure that they are completely dry so that rust does not occur. Do not use warm or hot water as this can discolour your pen.
WARNING – Some materials should have strictly no exposure to water. For example, hard rubber, casein, and any natural lacquers – materials which are typically found on vintage fountain pens – should NOT be cleaned with water.
Cleaning a fountain pen with dried ink
Cleaning a fountain pen nib with stubborn dried ink can be particularly troublesome. If you have some cash to splash, you could fork out for an ultrasonic cleaner. These work by vibrating water at a very high frequency. This circulates the water much faster through the nib than just soaking. However, this machine can only be used for pens that can safely be submerged in water.
In fact, we don’t recommend placing antique or valuable pens parts and nibs inside an ultrasonic cleaner or indeed using it for whole pens that cannot be taken apart. To be completely honest, we suggest leaving this apparatus to the professionals.
Cleaning pen nibs using fountain pen cleaning solution
If water alone won’t get your fountain pen clean, then there are various pen cleaning solutions available to buy. Each has varying degrees of success, depending on which reviews you read.
If you’re feeling adventurous, then you can make your own fountain pen cleaning solution recipe. Ammonia is one of the most popular chemicals used. The recommended ammonia dilution for creating your own nib cleaning solution is a ratio of 10:1 parts water to ammonia. i.e. 10 ml of water to every 1 ml of ammonia.
WARNING – If you are unsure of the material of your fountain pen, or if it might be damaged by ammonia, then DO NOT use an ammonia-based solution to clean your pen!
Cleaning your fountain pen with vinegar is an alternative to using ammonia. Add one teaspoon of vinegar in one cup of cool, clean water. Once again, we advise against using any substance on your vintage fountain pen unless you are completely sure that there will be no ill effects.
Alternative solution one: Sell your old fountain pen
Here at Vintage Cash Cow, we LOVE vintage fountain pens. We’ll happily buy any old pens in any old condition. We buy all types of fountain pens whether they’re dirty, dried up, not working or even if they have bent nibs.
Selling your fountain pen to us is so simple. Just request an info pack from us – it has all the information that you need to know, including some Freepost stickers.
Collect up your vintage fountain pens plus anything else that you fancy turning into cash and send it to us.
Our in house experts will value your items and send you a quote. Accept the offer and be paid the same day. You could even put the money towards a brand new fountain pen!
If you don’t like our offer, then we’ll send your stuff back free of charge, no questions asked.
Alternative solution two: Spend money
Believe it or not, there are a few specialist fountain pen cleaners and repair centres out there!
You can organise to send your fountain pen to them and they’ll do their best to recondition your old pen. The results will depend on its history and condition, but it could save you some time and a lot of mess.
Specialist services such as this don’t come cheap though, and there are a very limited number of options currently available in the UK. The cost of having such maintenance done on your pen can often outweigh the benefits and, at the end of the day, it is unlikely to add any significant overall value to the pen.
Remember, there is always the risk of causing damage when cleaning delicate vintage pens. You could end up doing more harm than good if you’re not careful – but don’t worry if the worst happens, because we buy vintage pens in any condition.
If you’ve got any questions, why not contact one of our friendly team today? They’re always on hand to answer any questions that you might have.
If you have any tips or experiences with cleaning fountain pens, let us know in the comments!
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How to properly clean and wash a fountain pen
Fountain pens are like vintage cars today – they don’t need to be used often, but they need to be cared for properly. It doesn’t matter if your fountain pen is expensive or not, any model should be cleaned regularly and correctly.
“Why clean a fountain pen?” You ask. Because the fountain pen uses the principle of a capillary, and if it is not cleaned, the pen will write poorly, scratch the paper or ink will not flow uniformly. It is worth cleaning the pen every 4-8 weeks. if you write to it regularly, without waiting for it to clog. If you are switching to a different type of ink, the pen should be rinsed as well.
We have identified several types of cleaning for fountain pens: basic, thorough, advanced – using special means. Let’s consider each of them in detail.
1. Disassembly of the handle. Unscrew the handle and remove the nib. If your pen uses a cartridge, you can tape the exposed portion of the pen while you clean the pen to keep the ink from drying out.
2. Flushing. Hold the nib under running water for a few seconds to rinse off the first layer of ink. Use only cold water or water at room temperature, as hot water can deform some components.
3. Soaking. Submerge the feather in a glass of clean water for a few minutes. Change the water when it is the color of the ink. This process will take at least an hour. Some waterproof and heavy inks may take longer to clean. Tap water is usually fine for this purpose, but if you know it has a high mineral content, it is better to use distilled water.
4. Drying. After removing the feather from the water, let it dry for 12-24 hours. It is best to put it in a glass with a napkin at the bottom so that all the water is absorbed faster into the paper.
5. Assembly. When the nib is dry, if necessary, insert the cartridge back into the pen and screw on both parts.
1. Follow the first two steps of basic cleaning.
2. Place the open part of the converter or housing in a glass of water.Fill and empty the ink reservoir until it is empty.
3. Attach the body or converter to the pen and place it in a glass of water.
4. Use a converter or built-in filling system to draw water into the handle. Repeat until the ink is washed off.
5. Leave the pen in clean water to clean it completely.
6. Dry and assemble the handle as described in the last basic cleaning step.
Cleaning the pen with a syringe
A conventional syringe without a needle and an empty ink cartridge can be used to effectively clean the fountain pen.Cut off the end of the cartridge and attach it to the syringe. Insert the structure into the nib of the pen and use it to flush by pumping water with a syringe. The only difficulty in this method is to choose a syringe with the desired hole diameter, since it must tightly connect to the cartridge.
Cleaning the handle with special cleaning agents
Several manufacturers produce special fluids for cleaning fountain pens. They are not cheap, and they are not always available here.But you can make a special tool yourself. Remember that plain water is still the safest tool for cleaning fountain pens, and it is best to use special cleaners every few months.
Dishwashing Liquid is an excellent safe fountain pen cleaner and can be added to water for greater effect.
Ammonia is suitable for stubborn ink residues. To do this, you need to mix ammonia with water in proportions of 1:10.Do not use ammonia to clean aluminum, copper or brass handle components as they can corrode.
Bleach is the right remedy if all else fails. Make a dilute 1:20 mixture of bleach and water and rinse the pen. Be careful, as the bleach can damage some parts of the handle. Never use bleach with ammonia, as mixing them produces harmful fumes.
Some fountain pens can be completely disassembled for easy cleaning.But if you do not know if full disassembly is provided, do not make sudden movements so as not to tear off the pen or damage other components. If the handle is completely disassembled, rinse all parts and dry thoroughly before reassembling.
90,000 Seven Fountain Pen Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The worst fountain pen mistakes by writing experts – The Goulet Pen Company
# 1.Write with a fountain pen with strong pressure. Perhaps the most remarkable quality of a fountain pen is that it does not require pressure when writing – it can write literally under its own weight. Still, people who are accustomed to using ballpoint pens often continue to press on the nibbler when switching to fountain pens. Excessive pressure can cause the nib to come apart and deteriorate. Do not try to paint a dry fountain pen by pressing or tapping on a hard surface, as you risk ruining it.Better hold it under running water – the handle will “come to life”.
Tip: Just relax and enjoy writing without pressure and without the effects of tired fingers.
No. 2. Quite a common mistake: carry the pen together with other metal objects: keys, key chains, a folding knife, etc. The body of your pen can be scratched, be it plastic, lacquered or anodized metal.
Tip: Always carry your pen separately from these items: in another pocket, in a pencil case, or place your pen in a pouch or case.
No. 3. Use special calligraphic ink in your fountain pen with markings such as: India Ink, Lawyer’s Ink, Pigmented Ink, etc. This ink is designed for nib pens. Some of these inks are formulated specifically for use in fountain pens, but most are not. Calligraphy ink contains shellac, a resin that, when dried, completely blocks the ink passages in your pen. This ink will only dissolve with alcohol, which can also ruin your writing instrument.
When a fountain pen needs to be refilled with waterproof ink, such as for ink + watercolor sketching, pigmented inks — special for fountain pens, such as Platinum Carbon Ink, are commonly used. Remember that when using this ink, the pen should be rinsed more often.
Tip: When buying ink, make sure it is the type that fits with fountain pens.
No. 4. This mistake is often made by more experienced users: do not take care of the fountain pen.Caring for the pen is quite simple: the pen must be periodically rinsed with water at room temperature. Sometimes it is enough to hold the nibble under running water. If a pen filled with ink has been left unused for a long time, and the ink has dried in it, place the nib for a while in a glass of water. If you are using a converter, then it is enough to draw water into the handle and empty it, repeating this several times until the water becomes light. By the way, with constant use of the converter, the pen requires less maintenance – the piston ink intake system automatically flushes the pen.
* Blog The Goulet Pen Company also recommends a syringe as a handy tool for flushing the pen nib. As they say, everyone has their own rituals, choose the one that you like best.
If you are using ink of the same color, the pen can be rinsed once a month. If you are changing ink, rinse it out before every new refill.
No. 5. This is not a mistake, but rather a death sentence for your fountain pen: rinse it with alcohol or acetone.Acetone dissolves plastic, and alcohol is quite aggressive to both the external and internal parts of the handle.
Tip: Use water to rinse the fountain pen – there is enough water for this task.
No. 6. This error can be fatal to your pen: drop the fountain pen when it has no cap on it. According to the law of a sandwich, she will fall down with a feather. If the surface is hard, it will bend and usually the feather cannot be repaired after that.In premium pens, nib replacement repairs can cost an entire pen. You will be more fortunate if you own a Lamy pen or a couple of other brands in which you can change the nibs yourself.
Tip: When you have finished writing, put the cap on the pen immediately.
No. 7. The biggest mistake is not writing with a fountain pen! This is a wonderful writing instrument, and not writing with it is depriving yourself. Sometimes people who have fountain pens, donated by someone or bought “to be,” often do not know where to write with them.A fountain pen can be a real hobby if you take inspiration from the experiences of people like fountain pens like Liz Steel (lizsteel.com) or our artist Ksenia Rein https://www.instagram.com/septembrenell/. Kara from www.bohoberry.com masterfully owns the system of keeping diaries and gliders, and does it very contagiously, and on the blogs http://www.penmania.ru/ and http://www.leighreyes.com/ they publish interesting reviews of fountain pens … And if you do not plan to start any new hobbies, then just write letters and postcards to your friends and family (it is not necessary to wait for the New Year, the reason may be a desire to thank for something, share thoughts or confess your love!), Start a diary, write shopping and to-do lists, writing reminders, practicing your handwriting by rewriting (or writing yourself) poetry or stories – there are many ways to make your daily life more enjoyable and interesting by adding pleasant writing habits.
Hope this information was helpful. If we have forgotten something, write to us and we will add to our list to help future generations of fountain pen users.
Parker’s fountain pen is dry – what to do?
For a fountain pen to last long and trouble-free, you need to take proper care of it. Especially when it comes to Parker products. These products are of high quality, but they are also susceptible to malfunctions. What to do if Parker’s fountain pen is dry?
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Caring for your Parker Fountain Pen
By following the simple rules of using the product, you can keep it working for years to come.The first step is to refill your Parker fountain pen with native ink only. If you use any other writing liquid for these purposes, then the consequences can be the most sad. Indeed, in addition to the fact that the ink will write poorly, dry quickly in the body itself, but also damage to the capillary system, as well as the pen itself, is likely. This is due to the oxidation process.
It is imperative to close the handle with the protective cap every time after use.Thus, an air cushion will form inside the cap, which prevents the ink from drying out.
If you plan to store the product for a long time, then it must be freed from ink, washed thoroughly and dried thoroughly. In this case, all parts will remain in perfect condition. If you leave the ink in the pen, then damage to the internal filling of the device is likely due to oxidative processes.
Do not expose the handle to harsh mechanical stress, because for all its strength, the body is still not designed to be “driven by a tank”.Too frequent falls on a hard surface can damage the entire mechanism. Even putting the handle aside for a while while working, care must be taken to keep the cap on it. And no matter which side of the case – the clip will prevent it from rolling off the table surface, which will prevent it from falling.
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What to do with a dry fountain pen?
Occasionally, after a long storage period, the Parker pen may become dry.This may be due to the fact that it was not emptied before storage. As a result, not only the ink has dried, but also the pen. What to do in this case? It is necessary to carefully disassemble the tool and rinse it under cold water, getting rid of traces of ink.
Particular attention should be paid to the pen – it must be rinsed under running water until the water flow becomes completely transparent. You can also soak the pen in a glass of water for a while if the dirt is too dry.
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Then thoroughly dry the entire structure on a napkin for several hours. And only then can the handle be refilled. If the mechanism is cartridge, then you just need to replace the old cartridge with a new one.
The filling process of the piston fountain pen:
- First, you need to squeeze the air out of the container using the piston.
- Then lower the nib into the ink container and start moving the plunger up.
- Make sure the container is full by dropping a few drops of ink onto the paper by gently flicking the plunger.
- Return the piston to its original position.
Refilling the fountain pen the first time can be a little difficult. But over time, the necessary skills will appear, and this process will not take more than a few minutes.
Do not rush to throw away the dried fountain pen – try to reanimate it using the above method.
It is best to take proper care of the product initially to prevent further problems.
Fountain pen nib grinding and polishing
Few writers will give up their quest for the perfect pen for their Holy Grail. So I, despite the fact that I am an enthusiast, have not yet come across the very one – an ideal pen that is perfect in appearance, writes flawlessly, sits in the hand like a glove and transforms handwriting for the better, because an ideal pen is an extension of your hand , not an obstacle between it and a sheet of paper.
Perhaps appearance is not the most important parameter for authors who write most of their time, preferring high performance pens. Recently, polishing nibs to match my writing style, I’ve come to understand more and more which pen is ideal for me. I first became acquainted with the art of nib grinding about three years ago, when Leong Hoon Keen, a Singaporean pen collector and experienced writer, gave me a Sheaffer fountain pen, a Triumph Imperial model, with a nib that he expertly polished to suit my style of writing.After years of struggling with pens that capitulated to my demands and couldn’t handle my fast writing pace, this pen was a revelation. After doing some of my own experiments and consulting with Mr. Leong, I began to gain a deeper understanding of the feather grinding process.
In this article, we will take a closer look at the technique of grinding the nib of italic and calligraphy pen (Italic nib), thereby overcoming some of the limitations imposed by the manufacturer.I will try to show what an average user without professional pen experience like me can achieve by following a simple procedure and using the tools available.
Why grind the nib of a pen?
Pen Grinding allows you to adapt it to your personal writing habits, making use of the maximum possibilities a pen can provide. Fountain pens with the ability to write in italics are few and far between, and there are many reasons to believe that the situation will not improve in the future.Rumor has it that future products will have fewer pen options for the sake of unification. It can be assumed that Italic nibs are expensive and laborious to manufacture, but manufacturers are in no hurry to release calligraphy models at higher prices. If that’s any consolation, fountain pens will almost certainly not disappear from the face of the earth, but many of them will only be available with pointed, classic nibs.
Therefore, the main purpose of this article is to demonstrate an increasingly relevant survival skill for calligraphic writing enthusiasts: creating an Italic italic pen from a regular one, by following a procedure of six simple steps.By following these steps, we will learn how to grind a wide nib to a smaller size, create an angled nib from a straight cursive, or change its angle of inclination, or sharpen a blunt nib. Each of the six steps is assigned a separate title.
Fountain pen selection – what’s available?
There are two main types of pen nibs: those that do not have a nib and those that are tipped with a durable metal (usually iridium). The most inexpensive fountain pens fall into the first category.Without an iridium nib, they are short-lived and may need to be sharpened frequently, especially if the wearer is applying strong pressure while writing. Cursive nib pens and calligraphy models are made by the brands Manuscript, Pilot, Parker, Sheaffer, Rotring (literally ‘red ring’) and Lamy.
Italic nib pens are more expensive. These nibs are made of steel, gilded steel or pure gold (14 or 18 carats). Whether the nib is made of steel or gold, it has little effect on writing performance.The difference lies in the feel of writing: steel nibs are generally stiff, while gold nibs can be flexible (eg Parker Sonnet, “75”) or stiff (Parker Duofold, “51”). Flexible nibs are preferred by many authors; I prefer stiffer nibs as they tend to produce a cleaner, sharper writing line. Two manufacturers that cater to the needs of calligraphic aficionados are Sheaffer and Parker. Schiffer has a flat nib (Stub) in most of his models, but in my experience they are often inaccurate.Previously, Parker’s Italic nibs were found in pens of various collections, but now such nibs can only be found on their flagship Duofold collection, while Sonnet has a nib – Stub. (Technically, a flat nib is similar to an Italic nib, but with a less sharp cut for smoother, faster writing.)
When buying a pen, it is always advisable to first clarify the possible nib options for the model and, if possible, purchase the option with the factory Italic nib. Large authorized dealers usually have the option to purchase additional nib options, and this opportunity is definitely worth taking advantage of.Since nibs are often hand-tweaked, you will not find two completely identical specimens: one “average” size may be wider than the other. Most manufacturers have a nib replacement service, so if the dealer doesn’t have the nib you want, you can return the nib and get the same model in return, complete with the nib you want.
The pen should only be used as a last resort, especially if you find a pen that writes great but does not have italics. Please also be aware that altering the pen shape may void the manufacturer’s warranty.I recommend two high quality, durable, yet affordable pens – the Parker Frontier and the Sheaffer Triumph Imperial. The Parker handle is available in a variety of finishes. The gilding on the feathers and clips from this manufacturer is of exceptionally high quality. The Sheaffer is only available in the UK in one design – stainless steel cap and barrel, no gold plating – and is more expensive than Parker. Both pens write excellently, but Parker tends to dry out after two weeks or so of non-use (even with the recommended Quink brand ink!), Especially if stored upright, while Sheaffer invariably continues to write like the first time, even after a few months.
Both Parker and Sheaffer are sold with standard medium sharp nibs, although Parker has a wider version. Parker has a cursive nib option, but it’s too wide for everyday writing and better suited for calligraphy. The Sheaffer is available with stub nibs and should be tried first, as some of them can do great work. Feathers are not sorted, but range from medium to broad.
If you decide to buy any pen to customize the nib by hand, imagine a line going through the widest point of the nib and judge for yourself if italics are enough.If not, ask for a model with a wider nib. If you usually use fine or extra-fine italic nibs, the standard medium is sufficient; but if you prefer medium or wide italics, try a broad or extra-broad nib. Remember that when you grind a pointed nib to Italic format, you end up with a nib one size smaller. However, left-handers will find that grinding slanted nibs is at least the same width as sharpened nibs – a rare occasion when reworking a nib allows a left-hander to enjoy all the benefits of fountain pens! Parker’s iridium nib is longer and wider than Schiffer’s, and will actually produce medium (or wide) italics – which is why Parker is preferred for writers who prefer a wider writing line, especially when you consider that a wide nib is not possible for every pen.
You can only try grinding premium brand pens after you have gained experience and confidence. For starters, practice with an inexpensive pen. When choosing inexpensive training pens, make sure they have real nibs and not ones that are formed from the same sheet of metal as the pen itself.
Grinding your pen
Now we can proceed to the very procedure of polishing the pen. Here’s what we need for this:
- Matching handle
- Grindstone (For example, the popular natural stone of Arkansas)
- Polishing paper (or finest sandpaper)
- Good magnifying glass (preferably jewelry with 10 or 20x magnification)
- Razor blade (optional)
- Ink bottle
- A glass of clean water (cold or room temperature)
- Cutting mat or other non-slip work surface
- Writing paper you normally use
- Napkins or other smooth, lint-free tissue paper
- Confident hand 🙂
Arkansas whetstone is used for initial, coarser sanding, while buffing paper (or sandpaper) is used for smoothing and polishing.They can be found in hobby stores. The cutting mat will help hold the sharpening stone in place while sanding and raise it to the correct height as you straighten the bottom of the pen. The razor blade will help clear chips stuck in the pen slot during sanding and can also be used to widen the slot to improve ink flow. It would be helpful to have a piece of paper to track the progress of the writing line at each stage of sanding. This should be the paper you write on most so that you can more meaningfully compare the performance of your new pen with others you previously used.It is best to work in good light rather than dim, as you will need to check your progress frequently.
Before using a pen full of ink, remove the ink, moisten the pen to remove excess ink and ink deposits (which fill the internal passages of the supply system), and allow the pen to dry. It is advisable to leave the nib attached to the handle, but with the cap removed, in order to have better control when sanding.
Now immerse the dry nib in the ink bottle for about two seconds, then remove the nib and wipe off excess ink from the nib.Now you can write with a pen as if it were filled with ink. Write a few words on your checklist. Let it be a sentence that involves most of the different hand movements, as well as a few crosses and zigzags. This is how the pen writes in originally. (Leave some space next to it so you can compare the final result with the original). Now rinse the ink in a glass of water and wipe the nib dry with a tissue.
Before you start polishing your nib, keep in mind an important point: always sand the nib little by little, constantly monitoring each change, because you can’t go back in time.In the very last stages of sanding, you will have to check the nib every time you run it over the sanding paper.
What is the correct form of an Italic italic pen
The goal of grinding your feather is the chisel shape. When viewed from the side, your pen should look like the one shown in fig. 1A (not strictly a chisel) or 1B:
Pen in fig. 1B is harder to sand but will give a thinner line and will continue to write thinly for much longer. Calligraphers often sharpen the underside of the pen before use to achieve the sharpest possible transition between thick and thin lines; this is also true for fountain pens when their tips become blunt.We will look at this process later (as step 5). A chiselled feather, as shown in fig. 1B writes more sharply because the beveled edge means that a smaller area of the tip is in contact with the paper. Conversely, it would be inappropriate to sand the nib as shown below, because too much of the edge will touch the paper, resulting in an unsatisfactory line:
When viewed from below, your nib should have a flat (non-rounded) writing edge that can be straight or oblique to the left or right:
The left-handed pen is used by left-handers who write with their hand in front of the writing line.The straight tip is used by right-handers, as well as by left-handers who place their hand behind the writing line. Authors who find that a straight tip does not fit their hand may prefer an angled tip to the right; many antique pens and some old calligraphy nibs had a slight bevel to the right.
STEP 1: ALIGNING THE PEN BASE
The first step, as you already understood, is to align the base of the tip. We want to remove the shaded area below:
The base should be sanded as horizontally as possible, not at an angle, because the horizontal base minimizes contact with the paper, providing a sharper writing line:
Place the whetstone on a non-slip surface and align to one edge.Hold the pen with your palm down and the base of the nib tip rests on the whetstone. Press down on the top of the pen with your index finger to apply pressure while sanding. Start sanding the base with short strokes from left to right, with only your elbow resting on the table and acting as support. The following image illustrates this step in first person:
Sanding in short strokes makes it easier to keep the handle at a constant angle. In the beginning, you can use moderate to strong pressure to level the base, but when you reach the key sanding stage, when the nib takes its final shape, you should reduce the pressure to light to moderate to avoid regrinding the nib.A drop of water applied to the whetstone as a lubricant will help at this stage (or simply dip the pen in water).
When you reach the end of the sharpening process (as your naked eye tells you), rinse the pen in water to remove metal shavings and wipe it dry with a tissue. Place the pen on a light background and light the tip of the pen with a table lamp and use a magnifying glass to make sure the base is completely flat and free of waves. If the nib is flawed, repeat the sanding process as above.
There are two good reasons to avoid excessive pressure. One of these is the danger of the iridium tip coming off the nib, and this risk is quite serious if you are working on an old pen. Another reason is that the teeth of the tip will bend when pressed firmly, resulting in a wavy, uneven base. Very flexible gold nibs are most severely affected, but Parker and Sheaffer’s hard steel nibs are less susceptible. However, lighter pressure is always recommended as the changes in your handpiece will be gentle and controlled, thus avoiding costly mistakes.
STEP 2: LINE UP
This is done in exactly the same way as in step 1 above, except that the nib is now pointing down onto the sanding surface. As the top gets flatter, continue sanding at a slight angle to the edge of the letter. Your pen tip should look like this:
STEP 3: ALIGN THE WRITING EDGE (OR CHANGE THE TILT)
The purpose of this step is to seam the rounded ridge shown as the shaded area in Fig.8a below, to achieve a square tip or writing edge, as in 8B:
This is the most difficult grinding step due to the difficulty of keeping the handle upright and at a constant angle to the grindstone. Hold the pen upright with your thumb, forefinger, and middle finger resting your wrist on the table with your elbow again. Stitch in one direction only – wide downstroke, using light to control pressure. Apply a drop of water to a whetstone to smooth out the movement.If the top of the nib is facing you, the nib will move away from you when sanding. The nib must be fully vertical to achieve straight italics, but at the appropriate angle to achieve a bent angle:
As in steps 1 and 2, decrease the pressure when you find that you are close to the desired result. The time to stop will come when both prongs are perfectly straight and aligned. Check the result with a magnifying glass, rinsing and wiping the pen. Make sure the corners are square and not rounded:
You have now finally made your own straight edge and your nib now follows the shape of the Italic nib.After you fill your pen with ink, try writing on the checklist, starting with crosses and zigzags, then whole words. Your tip will scratch the paper, especially when hitting, and you need to use light pressure to write to avoid pulling the fibers out of the paper and jamming the tip. Make sure the writing line is clean and consistent (not jagged at the sides) and that the nib is writing at an angle that suits your hand (that is, straight or oblique). You now have a good idea of how the pen will write as a result.However, if you think the nib has become too wide, you can make it narrower by following the recommendation from step 4 below.
STEP 4 (OPTIONAL): GRIND THE SIDE OF THE TIP
The nib can be made thinner by grinding off both sides of the nib a little. The pen should hold as in Steps 1 and 2, but with the nib now facing the edge of the tip to the grindstone:
As in step 3, sand the nib in the down stroke direction. Use approximately the same pressure and number of passes for each side of the pen.After every few passes, fill the nib with ink and write a few words to check the resulting width.
Now that your nib is sharpened to the ideal width, you will probably want to sharpen it even more to get longer writing sharpness by following step 5 below. However, this step is not necessary, and you should be able to do it when your tip becomes blunt or when you become more experienced with feathers.
STEP 5 (OPTIONAL): SHARPENING OF THE CONTACT AREA (OR SHARPENING OF A BLUNTING PEN)
This can be done by holding the stylus at a constant angle of about 30 degrees from the horizontal position and with the stylus pointing downward, tracing it over the grindstone in long strokes.You should start sanding with moderate pressure. However, when sanding is close to completion, use a little pressure.
This is a very delicate process as it is extremely difficult to grind both teeth equally, applying the necessary light pressure when sharpening the nib. Check your results with a magnifying glass after every two or three strokes of the stone. You should end up with a pointed chisel shape as shown below:
Your pen is now almost ready for writing.But first, its rough edges need to be buffed before it becomes smooth enough for everyday use.
STEP 6: POLISH / SMOOTH YOUR PEN
After you align each side of the pen and sharpen the contact area, your pen will have many sharp edges that will cut into the paper and pull fibers out of it. Pen polishing is a very delicate and sensitive process that requires a gentle touch and the use of polishing or fine grit sandpaper.You should use as light pressure as possible: the weight of the pen itself when your hand is pushing it forward and applying that lightest pressure. The purpose of anti-aliasing is not to make significant changes to the visual part of the letter: harsh and excessive anti-aliasing will lead to the fact that all previously done work will be wasted. Some of the sharpness in writing will inevitably be lost due to anti-aliasing, but using very light pressure can minimize this moment.The writer must find a compromise between strong contrast and fluidity – some authors prefer a sharper line, while others (especially those who write intensely or quickly) prefer a pen that slides easily over the paper.
The first task is to smooth both corners of the pen. This is done by moving each side of the nib across the polishing paper, starting at an almost horizontal position of the pen and gradually pulling it up to a vertical position, applying light pressure while rounding the corner.The left and right teeth must be equally ground. Beware of over-sanding, which will result in your nib becoming thinner than you intended.
The next task is to smooth the contact edge. Keeping the pen as horizontal as possible to the polishing paper, with the nib pointing up and resting on the polishing paper, gradually pull the nib to a vertical position. Light pressure can be useful when the handle is closer to the vertical position:
Then repeat the above, but now the pen should be pointing down:
You should now round off each corner of the bottom edge of the letter by placing a pen at each corner (two on one side and two on the other) on the polishing paper and making some very light strokes, moving in opposite directions each time.This is difficult to illustrate accurately, but the following figures will show the difference between an unwanted sharp angle (Figure 17a) and a desired smooth (Figure 17b):
Your pen is now almost ready to write, having gone through a preliminary anti-aliasing stage to remove the most annoying jagged edges. Using a razor blade, remove any metal shavings that may have gotten caught in the slot between the teeth. (It is highly recommended to skip this step if you think it is too risky).Carefully insert the razor blade at an angle into the slot on top of the tip of the nib (not the bottom edge of the letter, as this will roughen up), slowly slide it down, then up and gently pull it out:
Rinse the nib in water and dry on a tissue paper, then refill the nib with ink, taking care to remove excess ink. Now write a few words on the checklist with a pen. You will notice that the nib is much smoother than before.
However, you will want to remove every slight roughness that remains.This second round of smoothing is essentially a minor problem-solving phase where you write in different directions and angles with the pen, alternating between writing paper and polishing paper. Since polishing paper is best kept dry, rinse the nib and wipe it dry with a tissue. Now “write” a few words on the paper without using ink – this will allow you to identify areas that are still scratching the paper, reflecting them in subtle strokes. Moving on to the polishing paper, write the same words with very light pressure, tracing the same strokes to polish the remaining jagged edges.Write as many word variations as possible – this will help identify any problem areas.
In the test pattern for finding flaws, it is worth including everyone’s favorite straight eight and other symbols that have proven themselves well in the debugging process:
The above test characters should be written on paper several times and with normal writing pressure to help you identify problematic, awkward strokes. Switching to polishing paper, write the same strokes and drawings, but with much less pressure, to sand away any roughness.You should perform these steps while holding the pen at its usual tilt to the paper, but occasionally switching to a more vertical pen-hold than usual: this will ensure that the pen is smooth at all times within the slight fluctuations in pen-holding angle that occur in routine writing. Any roughness that remains during this step will come primarily from the tip crevice, the edges of the contact area, or tip protrusions. The test characters shown in the figure above will smooth out any roughness in the notch or edge of the letter.
The sanding process is complete when you feel your nib is smooth enough to write comfortably while giving you a satisfying, tight line. The very last, not described, polishing step is the regular use of the pen, where the nib is gradually sanded down on the paper in a natural way – like a new car that needs a run-in. Once you are satisfied with your work, rinse the nib with water, wipe dry and start filling the pen with ink.
FINALLY, you can now start writing with the new Italic italic pen! Write the first words at the beginning of the checklist, next to where you wrote the control words before starting the grinding process. The difference between how the pen writes now and before should be obvious to the naked eye. I hope that you will make great strides in your endeavors and that your pens will keep you writing pleasure for years to come.
Note: After each step 3-5, you must polish the nib as described in step 6.
90,000 how to fix problems with them. Instruction
Simple Remedies for “Hard” Fountain Pen Problems
When the fountain pen is in good working order, it glides easily over the paper. The feel of writing with a fountain pen is one of the reasons why people prefer this type of nibbler. But as soon as problems arise with the tool, their owners begin to experience difficulties in eliminating them. For example, pens may start to scratch paper with a pen, ink may go badly, or stop going altogether.Conversely, the pen may eject too much ink, leaving blots on your documents or even clothing, such as when carrying a pen in the pocket of your favorite jacket.
These problems are not common to all fountain pens, but they can occur in designs whose owners have forgotten about basic maintenance to keep the writing instrument in good working order. Fortunately, all maintenance comes down to the simplest steps that you just need to keep in mind.
Step 1: Clean the pen if it gets clogged
Many craftsmen claim that the pen and ink supply system must be soaked in cold water for one day to remove old dried ink from all channels.In fact, a good flushing of the capillary system should be done at least once a month, without waiting for clogging of the channels. Another good practice is to add a small amount of water to the ink held in the nib and feeder, which may partially evaporate after several days of non-use. To do this, put one drop of water on the tip of your finger and touch the gap between the teeth of the pen. If the pen has not been used for more than a few days, add two or three drops of water and let it soak.If you do not plan to use your pen further for some time, then simply perform this procedure at intervals of once a week.
For more serious cases, such as when ink has remained in the pen for several weeks of non-use, put water in the palm of your hand. Quickly dip the entire area of the nib of the pen into the water in your hand and also quickly remove it. Place the cap on the handle and let it sit for about an hour before use.If the ink on the paper is too light after the procedure, simply wipe the nib with an absorbent cloth to remove excess water or watery ink.
Fountain pens do not like long periods of disuse. If you are not going to use the pen for a long time, free it from ink and rinse the pen with water until it stops staining.
Do not mix ink from different manufacturers. They are often of different composition and can react with each other to form a dense gelatinous substance that clogs the channels in the handle.Use only fresh ink that has been tightly sealed or fresh ink cartridges. Manufacturers fill the airspace in the ink bottle with an inert gas, such as nitrogen, before closing it. They do this to prevent oxidation of the ink.
Step 2: Fix the scratching pen
A magnifying glass with good magnification is very helpful in correcting pen nib imperfections. The drawings below are a bit disproportionate, but they illustrate well the problem in question.They show the nib of the pen as if we were looking at it from the bottom up. The left side shows a handle with properly aligned teeth. The two halves of the iridium ball are aligned with each other and the pen will write smoothly. The handle on the right may have fallen or been misused. For some reason, the halves of the iridium ball at the end of the nib are misaligned. The pen will scratch the paper with its sharp inner edges. Press gently with your fingernail on both sides (alternately) aligning them. Check your progress with a magnifying glass as often as possible.If the nib is made of steel, it should respond well to your manipulation. Other materials may be more difficult to shape.
Any fountain pen will write smoother over time, because when you use it, the nib becomes more polished by contact with the paper, adjusting to your writing style. Exceptions are attempts to write on bad paper that is not suitable for a fountain pen and the use of cheap pens with poorly designed nibs.
If the nib has difficulty writing, requiring extra pressure, but then writes fairly well at moderate pressure, the problem may be that the gap between the teeth remains even up to the area of the iridium ball.If the nib is bent so that the teeth are too far apart, the ink will simply not be able to get onto the paper. And here the magnifying glass comes to the rescue. Gently, without scratching, squeeze the two halves of the ball with fine pliers until the gap between the teeth is moderate again.
Step 3: Space between teeth
This Waterman is not drawing enough ink. I solved this problem as follows: By placing my finger on the top of the nib and pressing lightly against a hard surface, the gap between the teeth and the ink increased slightly.However, be careful not to increase the space between the pen and the feeder too much. See step 8.
Wahl Eversharp once made a handle with an adjustable serration. This solution made it possible to control the amount of ink applied to the paper. Essentially, it allowed for the writing thickness to be adjusted between medium and thin. See also step 6 to bring the teeth closer together.
Step 4: Tine spacing
The correct spacing of the teeth depends somewhat on the viscosity of the ink you are using.Different pen manufacturers define different ink formulations because they design their pens for a specific ink viscosity. Some ink may be too thick to work properly with some pen models. Sometimes I add a little water to thin this ink so that it flows better in a particular pen. The correct spacing between the teeth is roughly the thickness of the carbon paper. If you are using a thickness gauge, 0.003 inches is about the same.
Step 5: Another way to spread the teeth
The teeth on this Parker were too close together. Spring steel nib. The tip assembly is unscrewed from the section. The nib does not slide off the feeder like most pens do, but it attaches to it with tabs. You can use a jeweler’s screwdriver to push away the tabs so that you can use the thickness gauge to set the teeth slightly. Yes, in this case, I decided to use a thickness gauge rather than just pushing down on the front of the pen.But trying to move the teeth apart by turning the dipstick into the slots can result in a “V” at the end between the halves of the iridium ball. See step 2.
Handles have their own personality. A friend gave me another pen, just like this one, but for color. This pen needs a little adjustment so that the pen does not skip when writing the letter “T”. The other pen does not skip under the same conditions.
Step 6: When the teeth are too far apart
In the past, a Namiki Vanishing Point fountain pen was available at an office supply store.One day, someone unfamiliar with fountain pens pressed the paper so hard that when the ink dried, the teeth were widely spread. Later this pen fell into my hands. I put one of the prongs on a hard surface. Place the screwdriver over the other prong at the same length as the slot of the nib and gently press down. Then I turned the handle over and repeated the procedure on the other side. This way I brought the teeth back to their proper clearance.
Step 7: Clean the ink supply system
Fountain pens operate on a controlled ink flow basis.The key to this is the correct contact and gap ratio between the nib and the ink supply system. With the right layout, you should be able to stretch a sheet of paper between the pen and the feeder with enough resistance. When the pen and feeder do not match, there are several problems: the ink is not flowing, or vice versa, the pen is leaking.
Step 8: Restore the correct gap between the pen and the ink supply system
Delivery systems are usually made of plastic.In vintage fountain pens from the 1920s and earlier, they were often made from hard rubber. The good news is that both of them can change shape with heat. Some use alcohol burners. I find it much safer to use very hot water.
Fill the measuring cup with a couple of inches of water. Place the glass in the microwave and heat the water until it boils. Remove the cup and place the pen and ink system in water for 15 seconds.Remove the handle from the water and press the dispenser against the tip. Use moderate pressure and do not release until you are sure the plastic is cool. It’s also about 15 seconds. If you don’t get the results you want the first time, you can repeat this process.
Step 9: Scratches or tears on the ink supply system
It is important that there are no grooves at the top of the feed system where it rests on the bottom of the pen, otherwise air will enter the system. You can paint any unwanted grooves with clean nail polish.When it is almost solid, place a sheet of paper on top of a smooth, hard surface. Turn the feeder over and slide it over the paper while pressing the feeder against the paper. Turn the knob while moving the feeder over the paper. The top of the feeder becomes smooth.
My wife got this Diplomat pen on very favorable terms. I suffered with her for a long time and could not force her to write in any way. I thought there was too little air getting back into the reservoir and I made a big mistake by cutting a small groove from the channel in the feeder to the outside.Later I had to seal up a small groove with nail polish and use the paper on a smooth surface trick to correct this mistake. Then I had to face a real problem, which was poor contact of the pen with the ink supply system (see the previous step). Now this is one of my favorite pens and a pleasure to use.
Step 10: what a lefty might face
This is a Namiki Vanishing Point fountain pen. When the nib is extended for writing, the pocket clip is between the thumb and forefinger.Lefties tilt the handle slightly, and this makes it difficult to use a particular model due to its peculiarity. In the days when fountain pens were very popular, special models were made for left-handers. Today, you can also find models for left-handers, but you still have to look for such a handle. I used a very fine-grained knife sharpening block to sand the point of contact with the paper so that I can write normally with my left hand. I held the pen tilted as if the surface of the whetstone were a piece of paper and moved the pen as if I was writing.Use a magnifying glass to see your progress. The disadvantage of sanding is that the surface will not be perfectly smooth, but it will smoothen over time from using the handle.
Pay attention to the second photo. Namiki has released an update to this handle with a thicker body. It is easier to hold, but I have not had the opportunity to purchase it. I went to my local hardware store and bought a short piece of 1/2-inch ID clear vinyl tubing and wrapped it around the handle in the grip area.All in all this solved the problem, I might have to take it off if I want to use the pocket clip.
Step 11: Other problems for lefties
I have a Schaeffer handle with two flat finger grip sections. This greatly improves grip for right-handers, but makes using the handle a pain for left-handers. I covered these areas with nail polish and let them dry. After adding a few more layers, I enlarged these sections, making the barrel handle almost round.Now I can use the handle comfortably.
“Reviving” Reform 1745 – on penmania.ru
So, as previously described, the Reform 1745 fountain pen from Germany has performed well both in terms of writing quality and reliability, as well as construction. And all this for an insignificant price.
But! The pens that are being sold now, although they are new from the point of view of unused, have been lying in some warehouse for decades. These warehouses (or the only one) are of very decent quality, since the cardboard packaging in which the pens are supplied (24 pcs per box) looks completely new.But a box-box, but no one touched or serviced the pens all these years. They lay to themselves and waited in the wings. And this expectation did not pass without consequences. However, the consequences are overwhelming. We overcome them.
So, the pen is received. With a high degree of probability, the pen has two areas that are problematic and affecting the performance of the pen: a pen (with a feeder) and a piston.
Feather. Part 1
Unscrew the cap. And put it aside. We begin to unscrew the back of the case counterclockwise (the black tip that moves the piston inside the handle).The piston starts to move, but it moves a little stiffly. So? We end the violence.
Unscrew (counterclockwise) the pen along with the feeder: the body of the pen – in the left hand (if you are right-handed), put the thumb of the right hand on the pen, the index finger of the same hand – on the feeder (from the bottom of the pen) and unscrew it with a confident and unhurried movement pen together with a feeder.
Next, rinse the pen under running tap water (you can warm it) and put the pen with a feeder in a glass of water.This is necessary to dissolve possible deposits inside the feeder and under the pen – dust, preservative residues, grease that could be there after many years of inactivity of the pen. Experienced comrades recommend pouring water into this glass not simple, but deionized, for a better effect. It seemed to me that making or buying deionized water was surplus, and the pen was put into plain water filtered through a regular drinking water filter.
OK! The feather is in the glass. And it lies for a day.It gets wet. You can, probably, and less, but where to hurry?
Lubricate the piston
So, as we found out earlier, the piston goes a little tightly along the handle. It just needs to be lubricated! But as?
First you need a lubricant. And silicone grease is needed. Pure, no impurities. The closest available silicone grease came from an auto parts store – a small can with a ball tip. I use it.
We take a toothpick (or other thin non-metallic stick), we collect a tiny drop of this silicone grease on it.
And then carefully, without touching the inner walls of the pen (the pen has already been removed, have you forgotten?), Insert a toothpick with a drop of grease inside the pen until about to a transparent window in the body.
Now touch the inside of the handle with the tip of a toothpick and spread this grease over the surface of the handle in a circular motion (as far as it will go).
And continue to push the piston of the handle, until it stops. Then push the piston back and forth within this window several times to distribute the grease more evenly over the piston.And then (have you already felt the difference in the ease of movement of the piston?) Move the piston already at full stroke, along the entire length of the handle, several times. If the piston moves with pleasant ease after this procedure, the lubrication procedure can be completed. If you want a little more smoothness, then the lubrication procedure should be repeated once more.
At the end of the lubrication procedure, we rinse the handle with running water to remove excess silicone, if they suddenly remain on the walls – we do not need them.
Pen, part 2.Tuning
So a day passed. The feather, hopefully, is soaked from old deposits. It is not possible to check the necessity of this operation and its effectiveness (I have not tested it), but since it was recommended, I did it as recommended.
We take out the pen from the glass, rinse it under running water, dry it and the pen after rinsing and collect it all.
We fill the pen with ink from a bottle. (How nice and easy the piston moves! 🙂 Trying to write. And not right away.Allow the pen to sit tucked in for a few minutes – let the feeder absorb some ink. We write. If you like the way the pen writes, you can complete the animating process.
I didn’t like the result. The ink supply has remained at the minimum level and the pen must be pressed to write. This is wrong.
Drain the ink, rinse the pen, unscrew the nib.
Increase the ink supply to the pen feeder. Since it is very difficult to remove the pen from the feeder, and putting it back on will be even more intricate, it would be necessary to cope without removing the pen.
We take the removed feather with two hands: the index fingers press on the feather from the outside, and two thumbs cling to the wings of the feather with their nails. And bend these wings outward with our thumbs. Little. Do not overdo it.
That’s all. This is all about increasing the feed.
Screw the nib into the handle. We do not refill ink. We take a pen in hand and try to write (without ink) on paper. Better on smooth paper. Do not press down hard on the pen. If it slides acceptable with such “dry” writing, you can fill the pen with ink and try it.
My pen was scratching. Disorder, however. Therefore, at first, armed with a strong magnifying glass, I made sure that the prongs were aligned acceptable. OK! I need to sharpen my pen.
The procedure is simple and delicate at the same time. A good magnifying glass (15-30x) is desirable.
We take a dry (without ink) pen and yellow-brown wrapping paper, so rough, you can find it in the post office, for example. And we begin to write out horizontal “eights” with a pen on paper.First in one direction, then in the other. Make some “eights”, try again on plain, smooth paper. As soon as you feel it. that the pen writes smoothly enough, the process can be stopped.
I myself do not use wrapping paper, but use a very soft and almost smooth nail file. One that is soft on the basis and very, very smooth, it should not be rough in any case, but rather looks like good skin in feeling. The good thing about the file is that the result is achieved faster.But you can also miss quickly. And a magnifying glass is simply necessary with this method of processing the pen, so that you often look at the pen through the magnified and not miss the “no return” moment. In general, if you decide to use the file option, practice first on the unnecessary pen. You never know …
The piston moves smoothly, the ink is supplied sufficiently, the nib glides with a pleasant smoothness and velvety feel. Reform 1745 is ready for battle. To the letter, that is. Reliable and pleasant.
The piston at the piston handle must be lubricated periodically. You can determine the frequency yourself – how you began to move with effort, it’s time for lubrication. This recommendation applies not only to the Reform 1745, but also to Pelikan piston grips and other piston grip models where the nib can be easily removed to gain access to the piston from the nib side. And in the same way, piston converters in converter / cartridge handles can sometimes be lubricated. By the way, in some cases, a simple silicone lubrication can restore the tightness of the piston at the handle or converter, if the piston “poison” the ink.
That’s all, and so the whole instruction turned out. In fact, the whole process described above is not very complicated. Especially after the 8th or 9th handle 🙂
90,000 How do I care for a fountain pen? Tips from PILOT
Tips for those who have purchased or are about to purchase a PILOT fountain pen. Despite the high quality and reliable factory or manual assembly (depending on the model), any fountain pen requires careful handling.
1. Use only quality paper.
Poor quality paper has poor sizing, so during writing, small particles and fibers will fall into the pen and clog the capillary ink supply mechanism.
2. Rinse the pen frequently.
And the more often the better. Here are the main steps in which a full cleaning (flushing) is shown to your pen: changing the cartridge, refilling ink, refilling with new ink or ink of a different color, sending the pen for long-term storage / disuse.
If the pen is not used for a long time, the ink inside can dry out and damage the capillary feed mechanism, so if you do not plan to use your pen for 2-3 weeks, be sure to disassemble and thoroughly rinse the ink feed mechanism.
3. Use only original ink.
As a rule, manufacturers primarily produce ink based on the characteristics of their writing instruments. Plus, original inks are the most fade-resistant and quick-drying.
4. Caring for the body.
It is recommended to remove dirt from the pen body with a soft, slightly damp cloth. Do not use aggressive detergents containing acids and solvents.
It is not recommended to carry out work on the elimination of small scratches on the parts and body of the pen at home and without proper knowledge and experience. Contact the professionals.
6. Avoid extreme temperatures.
Do not expose your pen to low or high temperatures.Avoid storing the pen in direct sunlight and near heat sources.