How to make fabric covered binders: Wrap It In Fabric: Customizing Your Binder Cover

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Wrap It In Fabric: Customizing Your Binder Cover

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When I married my husband in 1995, I received a beautifully personalized gift from my father’s wife. She customized a wedding album with fabric, which happened to be a popular DIY project at the time. Though I believed that album was the coolest thing since sliced bread and I wanted to learn how to make those albums myself, I never asked my step-mom to show me how she made those stunning creations. And even though 10 and 15 years later I still wished I knew the process of making those fabric covered albums, I never took the time to find out how.

Now, it’s 2017. I became a huge list maker, notetaker, prayer journaler and other such things. I had invested a pretty penny into spiral notebooks, journals, and 3-ring binders. None of the things I purchased ever really felt “right” to me. I’d use the cutest Lisa Frank spiral for a month, realize it wasn’t working for me, and I’d go out to buy something else. I bought so many different items to house my lists and notes, I really should’ve bought stock in companies like 5-Star.

Shortly after watching the newest faith-based movie (War Room), I spent a few weeks trying to figure out where I could create my own war room. I didn’t have any extra rooms and I didn’t have enough closet space for our clothes, so using a closet was out of the question.

It was then that my sweet little fabric covered wedding album popped back into my head. I wanted to create a space where I could keep my prayers, sermon notes, and scriptures I wanted to memorize. It was at that very moment when I heard the words “war binder.”

I decided I would find a way to cover a 3-ring binder with fabric and make it my own, private, personal book that held everything related to my walk with the Lord.

I discovered a way that works for me. Please feel free to use my process in your own project.

What You Need

  1. fabric you love
  2. 3-ring binder or photo album (or similar)
  3. spray adhesive and other glue (I used quick-drying tacky glue)
  4. scissors
  5. popsicle stick or other similar item
  6. clothespins (optional)

Instructions

First things first, I am using a 3-ring photo album to create this specific war binder. I often find them to be a bit sturdier than a school binder, but I use both depending on what I have on hand.

  • Lay your binder/album open and flat, on top of the material you’ll be using for the cover.

 

  • When you cut the excess fabric, leave an inch and a half or so of fabric all the way around the edges of your binder.

 

  • Spray the outside cover with spray adhesive and carefully position your binder onto your material. Be sure your fabric is laying flat and the back side of the fabric is facing up, like in the photograph to the right.

 

  • At this point, quickly flip over the binder so you can smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles between the binder and fabric.
    • TIP: I used a light adhesive, so I could lift it, flatten out any of the aforementioned issues and reapply if needed. I don’t believe I would’ve been able to do this with a strong adhesive.

 

  • Once you’re satisfied with the look of the outside cover, flip the binder back over and began to pull each corner of my material toward the center and attached it with some tacky glue. If it doesn’t stick to the binder within a minute or two, I use clothespins to hold the material down till it dries a bit.
  • The next step can be seen in the photo collage below and involves wrapping each side of fabric around the edges of your binder and attaching them with glue.
    • NOTE: When wrapping the fabric around the edges, do not pull too tightly. You do not want the fabric so snug that it effects your ability to close the binder once everything dries.

To cover the inside of your binder, you have two options. One is done with a heavy-ish cardstock and the other is done with fabric (and cardstock). The measuring and cutting for this step should be done more precisely, since this piece will not have anything hiding it’s blemishes.

  • FOR PAPER

    Each inside cover should still have a small amount of fabric framing the front, back, and sometimes the spine (as you can see I’m using one of those wonky trifold-like albums). Measure each area you want to cover, remembering to leave some of the fabric visible. Cut your cardstock to your desired size and carefully glue each piece to the appropriate side. Be sure the paper is large enough to cover the cut edges of fabric already glued to the binder. BAM! You just made a cover for your binder.

 

  • FOR FABRIC

    There are a few more steps to cover the inside with fabric, but I found a great complimentary pattern to this material and I love how it turned out. Even though we are covering the inside with fabric, you still need to measure and cut your piece of cardstock to fit inside the front and inside the back (and possibly the spine too). Remember to leave some of the wrapped-around-fabric visible. Now STOP! Do NOT cut the fabric the same as your measurements or cardstock. If you do, your rough (and possibly crooked-like-mine) edges will easily be seen when you open your war binder. What we do here is wrap the fabric OVER the cardstock, to hide the defects of the cut fabric. So just like we did on the outside cover, spray a little adhesive onto your cardstock and carefully smooth out any blemishes. Once again, gently wrap all four edges of fabric around the cardstock and attach with glue. That’s pretty much it! Take your fabric wrapped paper, paper side down, and and gingerly glue each piece to the appropriate side. Ta-Da!

Finishing Touch…

Ecclesiastes 7:20 NASB

Indeed, there is not a righteous man on earth who continually does good and who never sins.

I am currently working against my desire for perfection, so though the fabric is crooked and not everything lines up, I am completely okay with those imperfect things. Just as my Father accepts me as I am and does not expect me to be perfect. I pray you too are willing to be happy with your best effort and are not pushing toward perfection.

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3 Ring Binder Cover Tutorial- Quilt as You Go Technique

Use the quilt as you go method for sewing up a 3 ring binder cover. Great for back to school, or just keeping organized.

I had this ratty old binder cover from a few years back that had seen it’s last day.  It was time for a new one.

Falling in love with the quilt as you go method, and using colored thread for echo quilting- they go together great for this easy sewing project.

Use your fabric on hand –different widths are perfect for this project….or if there is a fabric line that all matches- this would work too!  Either way, you can’t go wrong.

This project takes under 2 hours to make from start to finish.  The echo quilting actually took longer then sewing the pieces together!  I love how it turned out though and the colors really pop + the accent thread color is great.

Materials Needed:

33″ X 12 1/2″ fabric- background. Won’t be seen, can use any kind of fabric you have hanging around

3 ring binder 1″  The size above reflects this size of binder. If you are using a larger binder, make sure you adjust your size- you will need to increase the 33″ length.

Scraps of fabric that are 13″ or so long X 2″ – 6″ wide | these are used for the quilt as you go method, so scrappy is just fine.  The width can be different with each piece.

1)  Lay the first fabric in the center of the background fabric.  WRONG sides will be touching.  Pin in place.

2)  Lay the next piece- right side facing- on top of the first piece.  Match the edge and pin in place.

3)  Sew along the edge.  Continue this sew and flip or quilt as you go method until both sides are filled with your cute fabric.  If you need more direction with sewing this method-

Here’s the video to show the process:

Clickety click here for the quilt as you go tutorial.

If you’d like to add some interest – place one piece at an angle and then pin and sew.  Make sure you keep the strip just a little bit above the top or bottom so when it is turned to the right side, it will still cover the whole background piece.

4)  Trim all the way around the outside edge.

5)  Sew with a zig zag stitch along the outside edge of the whole piece.

6)  With fun colored thread, stitch 1/4″ from the seams.

7)  Fold each end 5 1/2″ in and pin in place- right sides facing

8)  Measure 3/4″ from the edge on the top and bottom.  Use a pencil to mark this line.

9)  Sew along the drawn line.

10)  Turn right sides out and iron.  The large seam allowance will pull the fabric down in the center of the binder cover.  Iron this well.  If you’d like to stitch to keep it down, you can.  I find that the binder buts up against it and keeps it in place.

11)  Place binder inside the edge pockets and enjoy!

WANT TO REMEMBER THIS? SAVE THE QUILT AS YOU GO BINDER COVER TUTORIAL TO YOUR FAVORITE DIY PINTEREST BOARD!

Love this fabric?  I do too!! It is the Pop Rox Collection by Carol for Andover Fabrics.

What projects have you used this technique on? 

How to make a Fabric Binder Cover

Published: · Modified: by Melissa Mortenson · This post may contain affiliate links · This blog generates income via ads · Leave a Comment

There are only 3 more projects still to come in our Summer Sewing series and I must say that I will be sad to see it end.  Everyone has shared such unique and creative projects. Today we have Monica from It’s Just Sewing sharing a free tutorial to create a  Fabric Binder Cover (you can also use it as a book cover).   It’s the perfect project to transition from summer to back to school.

 

First I have to say that I adore the fabric that she’s used for this binder.  It’s from Heather Ross’ latest collection and I’ve got a healty supply of it in my fabric stash.  In the tutorial Monica walks you step by step through the process of creating the binder cover, she even shows you how to make your own pattern so that you can adapt the size to any book or binder that you like.

She also uses a very clever construction process. It’s kinda like quilt as you go, but with a twist. Make sure that you stop by her blog and check it out!!

To see all of the other posts shared in our Summer Sewing series CLICK HERE

Also, I just wanted to thank everyone for the advice and good wishes on the vertigo last week. I’m happy to report that it’s nearly gone, I’m just completely wiped out from being sick. I’m sure you all can relate to that feeling… the one where you walk up the stairs then feel like you need to take a nap?

 

I’ll be sharing photos and stories from our trip as a part of my Saturday Snapshots series.  It will start this weekend and run a few weeks. For those of you that are new, I usually share more personal stories on Saturdays, so I can post more crafty/DIY stuff during the week.

Labor Day is next weekend, and with it is the official “end” of summer. For those of you that are regular readers, I’ll be transitioning from my usual twice weekly posting to three times a week. I’ve got TONS of fun stuff to share with you for the upcoming Holidays, so don’t be surprised when you start hearing from me a little bit more than you’re used to.

I was able to get “some” sewing done this summer, but not too much. We were in the throws of a home restoration project due to our flood in the spring. I’m curious, did you guys get much accomplished this summer? What was your favorite project?

 

 

More Projects You’ll Love!

DIY fabric covered folders – By Hand London

Remember at school when you would cover all your folders and exercise books in wrapping paper to keep them protected (and looking super cool and reflective of your personality, obviously)? Well, this stash-busting DIY is kind of like that, only way better. 

These sweet little fabric covered folders make the perfect gift or scrapbooking project, or simply a pretty vessel to store all those boring receipts!

You will need:

  • A ringbinder folder – we’ve used A5 sized folders
  • Enough fabric to cover your folder
  • Fabric glue (optional)
  • Your usual tools and sewing supplies 

Lay out your folder flat onto your fabric. In order to cut a piece of fabric big enough to cover your folder, mark the fabric 1 1/2″ all around the perimeter of the folder.

Cut out your fabric.

We’re now going to mitre the corners of the fabric in order to create a perfectly slick finish to your folder cover, allowing you to slip it on and off securely and easily (that is, if you don’t stick it down with glue!).

Fold and press each raw edged length of your fabric in by 1/2″. Then fold and press in again, this time by 1″.

Open out the corners and fold and press in at a diagonal, keeping the initial 1/2″ fold intact and aligning the 1″ fold lines as shown below. If you’re struggling with this part, please see our perfect mitred corner tutorial.

Now fold the corner back on itself and stitch along the press line that runs at a right angle from the fold.

Snip away the excess close to your stitching, and turn your corner back to the right side. It should be looking a little something like this:

Repeat this process for all four corners.

Now you can slip your cover onto your folder! Insert one side of the folder into the cover, then fold the other side of the folder back on itself in order to get the other side of the cover on without breaking both folder and cover! It should fit nice and snug, but you could always use a little fabric glue to secure it into place some more.

Pssst… The fabric we used to cover these folders was printed by us! You can find the foxes here, the owls here, and the love-heart lady here.

 

Cloth Covered Heavy Duty 3-Ring Binder

Office Supplies > Binders
>
Cloth Covered Heavy Duty Three Ring Binders

Cloth_Covered_Heavy_Duty_Three_Ring_Binders is rated
5.0 out of
5 by
2.

Rated 5 out of
5
by
Jim O from
Cloth-Covered Binders!
This is a great product. I have ordered several.
A suggestion; could you make them available in a set of liturgical colors for churches? We would be very grateful. Red, White, Purple, Green, (Blue, Black, Rose) Would be wonderful.

Date published: 2021-01-13

Rated 5 out of
5
by
JenniferS411 from
Nice look, as advertised
I bought 20 of these for a new library shelf unit, to update some very old and stinky vinyl binders (inherited contents from a smoker). They were pricey but they look great and work well. The linen isn’t soft, it looks like it’s hard-bound on there, maybe immersed in glue, if it’s actually linen and not a pressed texture. But the look is very clean, and will be durable and dirt resistant.

Date published: 2016-07-25

Do you carry this binder in 2" in gray?

Asked by: Classics

We do not. Here is our collection of 2 inch binders: http://www.jampaper.com/OfficeHelpers/Binders/2InchBinders.

Hope this helps!

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2017-03-21

Hello, will y’all be getting more of these in stock?

Asked by: lindsayguidry

In a few months we will have these back in stock. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2018-05-02

Hi, Can you tell me if the brown cloth is temporarily out of stock?

Asked by: Sarah Cepeda

Yes it is currently out of stock. Should come back in a few months.

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2017-12-06

Is this big enough for textured card stock paper? 

Asked by: Amber94

Hello! These binders are big enough to accommodate standard letter size 8.5 x 11 paper. Thanks for the question!

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2019-08-01

Do you have half page binders ?

Asked by: Barbie13

Hello There,

I am sorry, we do not offer half page binders, but we do have mini binders. You can take a look here: https://www.jampaper.com/OfficeHelpers/Binders/MiniThreeRingBinders

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2021-02-04

Do you offer customization for this binder? We are looking to put a logo in the center and spine.

Potentially a screen print or deboss like finish

Asked by: Rachel1

Hello! Unfortunately we do not offer customization for this specific product. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2018-10-31

1. is the cloth made of archival materials–i.e., acid-free, lignin-free–so the binder materials will not cause the binder contents to discolor?

2. are the front and back covers AND the spine 1 continuous piece of material or separate?

Asked by: jackson

Hi,

For specific inquiries, please call our customer service line: 1-800-8010-JAM.

Thank you!

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2020-08-10

Do you know how "eco friendly" these binders are? I ask only because it’s our company policy to use materials that are as eco friendly as possible.

Asked by: KariP

Hello,

Unfortunately, our Linen Binders are not recyclable or made of recycled materials. If you’re looking for something more eco-friendly, check out our Kraft Binders here: https://www.jampaper.com/OfficeHelpers/Binders/1InchBinders/RecycledKraft1InchBinders-NaturalBlack.

Thank you for your question!

Answered by: CustomerService

Date published: 2019-12-12

Details

Once you have one of these binders, your CEO and you will basically be cut from the same cloth. Our linen texture brings a unique alternative to the regular plastic, making you stand out from the rest of your coworkers (CEO’s stand out don’t they?). The cloth-like feel will give you that extra confidence you need to impress. And having a stylish binder will cause a domino effect. Once you feel stylish, you’ll feel confident and your work ethic will increase. This great organizer will have you prepared for any type of presentation and your CEO might eventually even be nervous about the competition you’re bringing to the table. So be ready for some big responsibility coming your way!

Our Cloth Binders are available in 3/4 inch and 1 inch.

The 1 Inch Cloth Binder is available in 6 colors including Black, Brown, Grey, Orange, Red, and White. The outer dimension of the 1 inch Cloth Binder measures 10 x 11 1/2.

The 3/4 Inch Cloth Binder is currently available in Red. 

>

  • Once you have one of these binders, your CEO and you will basically be cut from the same cloth. Our linen texture brings a unique alternative to the regular plastic, making you stand out from the rest of your coworkers (CEO’s stand out don’t they?). The cloth-like feel will give you that extra confidence you need to impress. And having a stylish binder will cause a domino effect. Once you feel stylish, you’ll feel confident and your work ethic will increase. This great organizer will have you prepared for any type of presentation and your CEO might eventually even be nervous about the competition you’re bringing to the table. So be ready for some big responsibility coming your way!

    Our Cloth Binders are available in 3/4 inch and 1 inch.

    The 1 Inch Cloth Binder is available in 6 colors including Black, Brown, Grey, Orange, Red, and White. The outer dimension of the 1 inch Cloth Binder measures 10 x 11 1/2.

    The 3/4 Inch Cloth Binder is currently available in Red. 

DIY covered binders

Here’s a super easy tutorial on how you can make those ugly white 3-ring binders – or a folder or even an old book – look a little prettier.

I have 3 of these white binders in my office that hold all my important papers. They contain the things I use almost everyday for my freelance design business and my blog – artwork, stationery, forms, notes. I used to have these binders shoved in my desk drawers because they were, well, ugly white binders. The creative side of me didn’t want to put them out because they didn’t look nice but the practical side of me knew that I needed them to be easily accessible. I don’t usually like my practical side. But the practical side won out and I’ve had these binders sitting on my file cabinet. So I decided to give those ugly ducklings a makeover.

I grabbed my watercolor set {$4.99 at Michael’s} and some copy paper and asked my willing assistant {my 9 year old daughter} to help me paint some designs on the papers.

Here are the super easy steps to create your own binder, folder or old book covers. 

1. Gather your materials: 8-1/2 x 11″ copy paper, watercolor or regular acrylic paints, paint brush, Super Adhesive 77 Spray Mount, scissors, tape and newspaper.

2. Figure out how many pieces of paper you’ll need to cover your binder/folder/book. I used 2-1/2 sheets per binder. Lay out the newspaper as your “drop cloth” and put the copy paper on top and paint away! Be sure to paint all the way to the edges of the the paper and even onto the newspaper if needed. And have fun with the designs!

As you can see, the copy paper wrinkles with the watercolor but that’s ok. I knew if I used heavier paper, it would be hard to adhere it to the binders. Plus, most of the wrinkles will get smoothed out when they are glued to the binder.

3. Once the papers are fully dry, tape them together {on the back sides} to make one long sheet. Again, I taped 3 sheets together so I was working with a final piece that was 25-1/2 x 11″.

4. In a well ventilated area, lay out more newspaper and put your long painted sheet on top. Spray the back of that sheet with the spray mount. This stuff is very sticky but it is the best adhesive around!! Starting at one edge, adhere the paper to the binder and wrap it around the spine and onto the other side. With scissors, trim the excess paper where it ends at the other binder edge. Smooth out any wrinkles and edges with your hand.

5. You can add binder titles with a sharpie. I really loved the way the paintings of the binders looked when stacked next to each other so I didn’t write anything on the spine of the binders. And I used a fun, freehand font to match the designs.

So now I no longer look over from my desk to see those ugly white ducklings and instead I see fun, colorful swans that make me smile. We had no guidelines for our designs, we just used lots of colors and had fun painting. And I loved the results! These binders look so funky and fun on my file cabinet. And they add such a nice touch to the wall of kids’ artwork that’s hung above them. I know these binder covers won’t last forever but I’ve had mine for a few months now and they’ve held up really well, especially with everyday use. And they’re easy enough – and fun to do – that you can make new covers as you need them.

Enjoy your weekend and happy Mother’s Day!!

If you’re still in need of a gift for Mother’s Day, check out my DIY tray that you can personalize for your Mom and then serve her breakfast in bed on it! It’s also being featured over at DianaRambles.com.

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How to make ring binder scrapbook album at home

Have you ever wanted to make a custom scrapbook album from your own favorite fabric or patterned paper? Maybe you’re using an unusual scrapbook page size that doesn’t fit in store bought albums or maybe you cannot find albums at your local craft supply store. Whatever the case is, if you’re landed here, it means you want to make your own scrapbook album with ring binders and everything!

In a previous article, Cristina shared how to make a hardcover album. She used elastic strings to attach smaller notebooks inside the album. In this article, I’ll show you a similar album but this one will use binder mechanism so that you can insert pages as you go whether these are pocket pages or traveler’s notebook spreads.

Here’s the list of supplies you’ll  need

  • Chipboard sheet
  • A piece of fabric
  • A thin cardboard for lining
  • Patterned paper for decoration
  • Binder mechanism
  • Double sided tape
  • Awl tool or one punch tool (if your punch tool can punch through a chipboard)
  • Screwdriver
  • Bone folder
  • Pencil & ruler

How to measure the album size

Depending on the insert page size you’ll use, you need to add at least 2 inches to the width of the album cover and 1 inch to the height so that your insert pages doesn’t stick out of the album and got ruined.

In my case, I’ll use 3×8 inch traveler’s notebook size inserts with this album. So, my measures for the album cover and back are 5 inch by 9 inch. And the spine size is 2 inch by 9 inch.

Where to buy ring binders

Before going through with this tutorial, you might wonder where you can find ring binder mechanisms. I bought mine from Aliexpress. They are way cheaper than what you would’ve bought from Amazon. But there is a little catch, they might come without screws. One of mine was without it so, now it’s useless unless I order again. The shipment process from Aliexpress might take 45 days or so internationally. So, keep that in mind.

Making the album

Cut out two pieces of chipboard in the size of 5×9 inch and one piece in the size of 2×9 inch (if you want to change your album size, see above for finding the measures.)

For one of the 5×9 inch pieces, measure 1/4 (0.25) inch from the long edge, and draw across a line with pencil. Align your binder mechanism with this line and mark where the screw holes are.

With awl tool, punch through these marks. Make sure the binder mechanism’s screws are able to go through these holes.

Lay the cut pieces on the ground. From left to right, they should be aligned as, front cover, spine, back cover. And separate them from each other by 1/8 (0.125) inch. This space will allow album cover to be folded nicely.

Put your fabric on top of the chipboard pieces, and cut the fabric around the edges of album. Make sure the fabric is slightly larger than the chipboard by at least half an inch.

With awl tool, mark where the binder screw holes are on the fabric. And widen these holes with scissors just a little bit so that screws can go through.

Take out the fabric, and put some adhesive on the chipboard. And stick your fabric onto them. Make sure that the holes align. I am using a double sided tape. If you’re using a liquid adhesive, leave it to dry.

Flip the album from bottom to the top so that the order of the chipboard pieces is still as follows; front cover-spine-back cover.

Cut the corner of the fabric at an angle and fold the excess fabric in using a piece of tape or with the adhesive you have in hand.

Align a piece of thin cardboard paper with the inner side of the album. I left 1/4 (0.25) inch on each side of the corners. Therefore, my liner paper size is 8.5 inch by 11.5 inch. Once you align one side, secure it with a clip. Then start applying your adhesive under the paper. Go from one side to the other to make sure it’s aligned properly.

Once you’re done, with the help of a bone folder, score through both sides of the spine. Rather than using the tip of the bone folder, use the side of it so that you don’t tear the paper like I did here.

Fold the album back and forth to let the spine takes it shape.

Once again, with awl tool, punch through the liner paper from the back of the album.

This step is optional if you want to use a custom pattern inside the album. Cut a piece of patterned paper to the size of liner and stick it like we did with the liner paper. I printed a floral pattern from Photographer collection and used it only on back and cover sides because the photo paper I used to print cracks when folded. So I intentionally left the spine open. You might use your pattern full, covering front, back and spine, if your paper can handle folding.

Punch through the patterned paper as well so that you can see the screw holes for next step.

Place the screws from the back of the album.

Put the binder mechanism in place. And secure it with the other piece of screw.

And that sums up how you can make a custom binder ring album at home. I hope you enjoyed it!

Did you like this tutorial? If so, comment below to let me know your takeaways from this article.

As always, keep documenting because life’s worth recording.

90,000 Hardcover book printing / shipping free / cheap / price

It’s no secret that hardcover books last longer. A well and high-quality binding increases the service life of the book, gives the publication a more presentable look, and increases practicality if the book is supposed to be used often. Let us recall the school textbooks of the past. They were made in hardcover and served more than one generation of students.

Hardcover is a complex of post-printing operations aimed at connecting the outer part of the book (cover) with the inner block by means of a flyleaf and a nakhzat (back flyleaf).They connect the bound book sheets.

So, let’s look at the types of hardcover. When placing an order in a printing house, you need to clearly understand which type of binding you need. In addition, they vary significantly in cost.

Binding of the indoor book block

First, consider the options for binding the block (pages) of your publication. Of the main types of fastening, two are distinguished:

PUR glue (PUR glue)

– This is a polyurethane adhesive.In bookbinding it is used relatively recently.

– Super strong adhesive with a number of advantages:

– High strength. Allows you to refuse the additional operation of flashing the book block. At the same time, the loss of sheets is excluded even with regular and prolonged use.

– Elasticity. The book opens to an almost horizontal position.

– Versatility. Excellent adhesion (adhesion, adhesion) without damaging paint and varnish. You can glue coated and designer papers with UV varnish or lamination.Used when the spine thickness is even more than 2 cm.

– Economy. It is applied in a fairly thin layer and reduces the time and cost of binding pages.

Sewing the book block with thread

Classics are immortal. With a well-made binding, such books are stored and used for a very, very long time. The technology is simple: the printed sheets are folded (bent), collected in notebooks and sewn together with threads with a certain number of stitches.Then the stitched notebooks are cut to the required format (size) and inserted into the binding cover (cover).

Advantages of sewing a block with threads:

– Classic type of block fastening. It was also used in the manufacture of handwritten books.

– Strength and durability. It is difficult to deform and damage stitched notebooks. There is no complete bending of the sheets of the book.

– Good book opening. Opens on any page and remains open.

– Ability to use butt illustrations. Since the radicular field is practically not deformed, it can be used in the design of illustrations or photos, passing from one page to another (on the spread of the book).

Hardcover books is not just a cover, it is a guarantee of the publication’s durability. A beautiful hardcover book always makes a good first impression on the person who picks it up.

Hardcover types

After deciding on the type of block binding, go to the binding cover.Let’s talk about the most common types of hardcover.
A binding cover is a sheet of cardboard of a certain thickness (usually 2 mm), pasted over with laminated paper, fabric material, leather, imitation leather, etc.

When making hardcover books, a book block is first printed and stitched with threads. Then a binding cover (cover) is made, which is connected to the book block. Unlike softcover, this type of binding allows the book to open 180 degrees for more comfortable reading.

Binding No. 7

For covering the cardboard roof , materials stylized as leather are used: bumvinyl, balacron, leatherine, leatherette or leather.

Manufacturers of binding materials provide us with a huge selection of these materials, both in terms of the range and price. It is not difficult to figure this out, after spending a little time.

Different types of foil stamping are used for the cover design, blind (or blind) stamping without foil, combination of stamping types. Embossing is carried out on a press using special dies (cliches) made of magnesium or brass. At cost, brass clichés are stronger and more expensive than magnesium.

Nowadays, a material is widely used, which, when embossed, changes its shade or even color. If there is a small circulation, then you can decorate the book with corners or metal nameplates, inlay, applique, colored sticker, make the edges (cuts) of pages colored, gold or silver, add screen printing or thermal rise.7B bound books look very presentable, are suitable as an expensive gift and have durability and strength.

Binding No. 7B

For this type of binding materials on cotton, paper and fabric are used: calico, leaderin, efalin, design papers with the texture “linen”, “laid”.

The main distinguishing feature of the binding # 7B is that this technology made it possible to apply color images, to carry out large editions at the expense of a lower cost. The design can be very diverse, as in the first version: foil stamping, blind stamping, image printing, metal and colored inserts, etc.

This type of binding practically combines quality, appearance, circulation and a relatively inexpensive price.

7B hardcover we use a variety of materials to decorate the book cover. The simplest option would be to make a cover using bumvinyl, balacron or baladek binding material.Such materials have different colors and textures. For example, embossed with leather or linen, two-tone marbled, metallic, and others.

A more presentable option would be to make a cover made of leatherette. Book cover decoration is done in a variety of ways. Typically, gold, silver or colored foil embossing or blind embossing is used to add dimension to the image or text on the cover.

Binding No. 7BC

This is a classic version for the mass sale of various literature: children’s books, serial art publications, specialized books (textbooks, manuals, scientific literature).

The binding is based on a full-color colorful or monochrome, printed on coated paper cover, pasted on cardboard . For durability, it is cellophane (laminated) with a matte or glossy polymer film.

For decoration, foil stamping of different colors, relief and blind embossing, UV varnishing, glitter varnish, printing with metallized and stencil paints, thermal rise, 3D varnish and 3D foil are used.

If we minimize the additional processing of the cover, the price of the book turns out to be small.This binding is suitable for medium to large print runs designed to reduce unit prices while increasing total print runs.

Cover is digitally or offset printed and laminated with matte, glossy or textured film. For a more spectacular look, foil stamping is done over the lamination.

Integral binding

A relatively new type of binding. There is a demand for this type of binding because it imitates the classic genre of hardcover, but with a minimization of the price.

Externally, intergal binding is difficult to distinguish from the classic one, but the internal structure is greatly simplified. Without going into technology, the cover consists of a sheet of cardboard, sealed and laminated with . The choice of this thickness gives the required stiffness, from semi-hard to hard. As a decoration, it is exposed to any popular types of finishes.

Widespread in those industries where it is necessary to reduce the weight of the book and its cost: educational literature, reference books, instructions, guidebooks.

In terms of wear resistance, integral binding takes the middle place between hard and soft binding.

As an epilogue, the production of a hardcover book goes through many stages. But if you want to get a high-quality book that will serve for a long time and faithfully, which is pleasant to pick up, open, pleasant to read or give to friends, then it is better to choose a classic hardcover book.

Book endpaper

Flyleaf is a structural element of a hardcover book, which is a sheet of thick paper glued to the cover on one side and to the book block on the other. The flyleaf can also be part of the decoration of a book. For example, you can use an endpaper made of tinted colored paper to match the cover, or make a flyleaf with a printed ornamental or subject image.

Captal

Kaptal is a thin cotton strip of fabric with thickened edges, which is used to increase the strength of the binding of sheets in the block. But this small strip is also a decorative element of your book.

The color of the capital is chosen according to the main color of the book cover or, on the contrary, it can contrast with the general color scheme. Captal can be one- or two-color.

Strap strap

Lyasse (ribbon bookmark) is used to quickly and easily find the desired page. One end of the tape is glued to the top of the spine of the book block, and the other (free) is inserted between the sheets of the book.

Price for printing hardcover book>

You can calculate the price for the production of a hardcover book in our online calculator by the link: print the book cost >>

90,000 Do-it-yourself album binding – step-by-step master class and PHOTOS | DIY

It so happens that over the years, a huge number of old photographs, documents and newspaper clippings accumulate in the drawers of dressers and nightstands.All this is a family archive, which requires proper registration

A good large-format album is not cheap now, and you may need several such albums. What if you assemble them yourself, and at the same time master the basics of bookbinding? You can go even further – to sew a whole book in which it will be convenient not only to store photographs, but also to make signatures to them commenting on what is depicted on them. Better yet, express on the pages of the book your attitude to certain events that happened in the life of your family.

As a result, you will get not just an album, but a kind of family (or your personal) diary, which can later be considered as a historical document or a fascinating novel – everything will depend on its content. And it is very possible that in the future it will be read not only by you, but also by your children and grandchildren.

WE SELECT TOOLS AND MATERIALS FOR BINDING

The first step is to acquire the necessary tools. Of course, they are simple and can be found in any home.First of all, these are scissors, needles, threads. awl and PVA glue. You will also definitely need leather or cardboard for the cover, a piece of braid and twine. Two boards, a glue brush, a pair of clamps. gauze for the spine, too, will not be superfluous. It is advisable to purchase metal or leather caps for the corners, as well as material for decorating the cover – cotton. linen fabric or tapestry for upholstery. A small hacksaw (or jigsaw) will also come in handy, it is possible for metal, and, of course, a sharp boot knife (photo 1-3).

Fig. 1. Elements of the cover of the book.

But the most important thing is paper. For a book block, large-format Whatman sheets are best suited, which can be cut as you like. It all depends on what size the book you want to sew. Thick paper will also be needed for the endpapers (sheets connecting the book block with the cover) and the backlog – a book element that is glued on the inside of the spine (Fig. 1, 3). Thin cardboard will also work for the flyleaf, as long as it is white and smooth.

COLLECTING NOTEBOOKS

After the paper has been purchased in the required quantity, we cut it in such a way as to collect several notebooks for the book block. Each notebook should have 16 pages, one sheet of a notebook is four pages. Accordingly, four sheets are needed for each notebook. We cut whatman paper to the desired format and bend each sheet in half. If desired, the sheets can not be folded, but simply cut them in the center and stack them so that you get eight sheets. This assembly method is also possible, although it is not a classic one. If everything is done according to the rules, then we put the folded sheets into each other. As a result, we will have several notebooks that will need to be sewn into a book block.

Their number is at your discretion: maybe 9. or maybe 18, but the more there are, the more difficult it is to assemble the book.

BOARD

If you want to put together an album not only for photographs, but also for notes, do not forget to line the pages before you start making notebooks!

READY BLOCK

So, the notebooks are ready (photo 4).You can form a book block out of them in different ways. First, let’s take a look at the most difficult one – the one used by professional book binders.

Binding method 1. PROFESSIONAL

We put all the notebooks together and clamp them in a wooden vice (Fig. 2A). Next, using a hacksaw or a jigsaw on the protruding roots, we make several cuts with a depth of 1. 5-2 mm. The number of cuts can be different depending on the format of the book, usually from three to seven (Fig.2B). Each cut is intended for a twine cord around which notebooks will be sewn.

Fig. 2. Book binding with cords.

For the convenience of work, you can use a special bookbinding machine (photo 5). However, if you did not manage to get it, you should not despair: put the cords under the sheets folded in a pile and start sewing. How it is carried out is shown in Fig. 2B.


See also: DIY binding


We pierce the spine of the lowest notebook, we put the needle inside and, after making a couple of stitches, we bring it out from the back side near the cord.Then we go around the cord with a thread, again we put the needle inside the spine and after one or two stitches we bring it out again near the next cord. We go around it and then proceed according to the same scheme (photo 6). After the last cord and a couple of stitches, we pull the thread out, pull it and put the needle inside the spine of the next notebook. Thus, we flash them all. Of course, the thicker the book, the longer it will take to stitch it, but in the end we end up with a sturdy, reliably stitched book block.

Next, we glue the roots with glue and again hold them clamped in a vice until then.until they dry.

Method 2. AMATEUR BINDING

This technique is much simpler and faster to implement. First, we sew the collected notebooks in any way. This can be done as shown, for example, in photo 7 or in photo 8 and 9. If it is problematic to pierce a Whatman paper with a sewing tool, use an awl, and only then a needle.

The rest is simple. We collect notebooks in an even pile, glue the roots and put them under the press. As the latter, in the absence of a vice, you can use plywood sheets with a bend laid on top.

To increase the rigidity of the block, it makes sense to saw the spine and insert the cords into the cuts, but now do not sew them, but simply glue them. Although this is not necessary: ​​as a result of prolonged squeezing, book notebooks will stick tightly to each other.

When the glue is dry, the block is ready for the next operation.

WE WORK WITH BLOCK

Now is the time to arrange the endpapers. To do this, cut out two sheets of paper or white cardboard (the latter is preferable).We bend them in half and glue them: the first one to the upper notebook of the block, and the second one to the lower one. If the spine was fastened with cords, coat their ends with glue and place them on the loose part of the upper endpaper.

Next, we cut out a strip of gauze and, as a reinforcing element, glue it with the help of PVA on the block with the endpapers (photo 10). It is clear that it should be slightly shorter in length than the spine of a book, and three times more in width.

Another detail that also needs to be fixed now is the captal (Fig.3). It is needed rather for aesthetic purposes, although a well-glued captal, like gauze, keeps the book block from collapsing. We cut off the braid prepared in advance and fasten it along the edges on both sides on the spine. Of course, if there is no material for the captal, you can do without it, but with this protruding piece of tape at the end the album will look much better.

Making the cover

The final stage is making the cover and assembling all parts of the book.

Cut out two sheets of thick cardboard, which will later serve as the basis for the cover. In professional language, they are called cardboard sides (Fig. 1). In terms of size, they should correspond to the format of the future book, but the height of the sides should be 6 mm more than the height of the block (Fig. 4.1).


Reference by topic: Bedside table made of cardboard and do-it-yourself binding cardboard


Now, from a strip of leather or from furniture fabric, you need to cut out the spine of the binding cover, which will need to be glued to the cardboard sides.When making markings, it should be borne in mind that the width of the spine should be 60 mm greater than the thickness of the book block. In this case, along the length, it should have a 40 mm allowance on each side, so that the material can be bent inside the covers (Fig.4.2). We cut out the part according to the markings, put glue on it and put cardboard covers on both sides, onto which we bend the ends of the spine. We turn the covers over to the other side and smooth them with effort by hand.

Fig. 4. Cover making and final assembly.

We also glue a gap between them – a strip of the same cardboard as the cover, equal in width to the spine of the book (Fig. 1).

We lay out the almost finished cover on a previously prepared piece of fabric, which we will use as a cover material (Fig. 1). We mark the fabric in such a way that it can be pasted over both parts of the binding cover (Fig.4.2). We glue the book block, upper and lower endpapers to the cover, and on top of them. using the same PVA, we fix the allowances of the cut fabric blank (Fig.4.3-4.5). You can, of course, do it in a different way: first, glue the cover, and already on it – sheets of endpapers, but this is as you like.

We put the finished album under a press and wait for the glue to dry.

What we should end up with is shown in photo 11. A few more books collected using the described technology are in photo 12.

What’s Next

As already mentioned, you can use such albums in different ways: make records of the history of your family in them (as in photo 13), place personal photos and documents in them (photo 14) or collections from newspapers and magazines on topics of interest to you ( photo 15).As a result, sooner or later you will have a whole library of books that you have created yourself. This will be your family archive.

OWN BINDING OF THE ALBUM – VIDEO

© Author: V.Strashnov

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2021 New A5 / A4 Cloth Cover Notebook Diary Planner Time Planner Books

1) Question: When can I receive an offer for inquiry?

Answer: usually an offer will be sent to you within one working day after all the details of the product are clear, if something urgent we can bring to you within 2 hours, taking into account all the details.

2) Q: How can I get the exact price?

A: some basic specifications we need to know in order to negotiate the prices to calculate, namely: quantity, size, specializing in the production of panels from the mold (photo), material and color in the die cutting machine for printing and surface finishing (you can refer to explain photos on our website) and then the best price will be sent to you in time.

3) Q: How long does it take for mass production?

About: Normal 10-15 days. An urgent order is possible.

4) Q: Can I get a free sample?

A: of course! We can send you samples that we made before for our other clients or make a new blank sample for you, an offer based on your demand, if you need such a service side rack sample shipping cost.

5) Q: How long can I get a new sample based on my request?

Answer: After receiving the sample payment and confirming all materials and design. It needs 5-7 days to produce it and express delivery time usually takes about 3-5day.

6) Q: Can the sample cost be refunded?

Answer: Yes, in this case, as a rule, the cost of the sample can be refunded in cases where you have confirmed the production time of wholesale lots of goods, but for a specific situation, please contact the people who follow your order.

7) Q: What paper can you print on?

A: We have several kinds of paper in stock, which depends on the products you need, such as woodfree paper, paper, kraft paper, paperboard. Thus, if you are not sure which material you need just, please contact us, who are experienced and we will give you the best recommendation.

8) Q: what size and how many sheets can be made in one book?

Answer: any size can be custom made (as usually the most commonly used A4 or A5 or A6 or A7) size, besides, any sheet can be custom made just please note, it should be in quantity 4 and 1 sheet is 2 pages.

Welcome to your inquiry about PU / paper pad anytime. Thanks in advance!

90,000 leather, paper, leatherette and fabric bindings of books

To create an exclusive design for a status publication, it is customary to decorate the covers and endpapers of books, as well as, if necessary, cases for them, with binding materials.
As you will see further, the budget plays a significant role in the choice of materials, therefore, in the case of a large budget, we usually offer to produce a certificate or even an accompanying brochure describing the use of exclusive techniques and materials and thus confirming the status and investment.Let’s dwell on the main materials and methods of their application.

Types of binding materials

Natural and artificial leather

Binding leather (as a rule, it is goat leather or, more budgetary, clothing leather) is the most expensive, durable and elastic material. It is used in status publications.

Leather binding looks and feels a little different from genuine leather, but much cheaper.

Design paper binding

Design paper differs from the usual texture and a huge selection of shades and patterns, up to unique ones (hand ornamentation or marbled) and is used as endpapers, as well as for decorating book cases.We use 3 main types of paper: kepera (industrial and relatively inexpensive design paper), expensive marbled paper of our own hand-made and semi-automatic marbled paper (it is somewhat cheaper).

Cork

Cork is a very “warm” and beloved material, but not always suitable in style. Of course, the choice falls on her when designing books about wine and spirits, but also for ecological, general culinary publications and for books about nature.This material is cheaper than leather.

Cloth binding

Silk and velvet are mainly used as binding fabrics. The first one is for everything: for covers, endpapers and interior decoration of cases. Velvet – for the complete finishing of cases (not only as a lodgment). The choice of silk for binding is always determined by the theme of the publication. As a rule, this is poetry, esotericism, a gift for women. The use of silk for endpapers is a sign of status and high cost of the publication; for endpapers, as a rule, moire silk is chosen – in style it is analogous to marble paper, but in a fabric and more expensive version.

Material combination

Full leather, inlaid or composite leather binding

The binding material for the cover can be either a single piece of leather or several. The use of several pieces of the same type of leather may have a utilitarian reason: one skin is not enough for large-format editions. But a design idea can also serve as a motive; then they combine one type of leather of different colors, or different textures.Leather dressing may already “include” a certain texture, but manual techniques are often used, obtaining crinkled, or perforated, or other specially decorated leather.

Composite semi-leather binding

This is a combination of bound leather and marbled paper (or any other design paper). Most often, the choice of semi-leather design is made for scientific works and old editions of classics, since such a design can be defined as austere, academic.

When choosing a composite binding, it should be remembered that embossing (book titles, etc.) is not done on marble paper (difficult to see) or highly textured leather – as a rule, with composite binding, all embossing is performed only on the spine, or smooth and monochrome materials (leather or designer non-marble paper).

Combination of Draws

In the case when more than 10 copies are required, the circulation is divided into VIP copies (5-10% of the circulation) and more budget bindings.Depending on the wishes, the visual difference may be subtle and is achieved in this case just by using leather and paper of different price levels.

But it is also possible to significantly “spread” the price of the VIP-edition from the premium, but more budgetary one. This is accomplished, for example, by French binding instead of typographic binding; more sophisticated decoration of the cover and cutoffs, the addition of brass or silver fittings and a gift case.

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