Hook fasteners clothing: 20 types of Fabric Fasteners for your cloth openings


20 types of Fabric Fasteners for your cloth openings

I like the concept of bone buttons of the early humans but definitely, things have improved since they were used. The variety of fasteners now available to us when we sew is marvelous. The ease and efficiency of the fasteners are also greatly improved. 

Choice is always a good thing, though it sometimes confuses us. I am always in a dilemma about choosing between buttons and hooks; though buttons are definitely my favourite, the buttonhole bit always makes me hesitate. (Checkout the 8 different types of buttonholes you could sew on your clothes and  the tutorial to make a handsewn buttonhole or sew the buttonholes with a machine )

Fasteners have a very functional role in a garment. They help the opening of fabrics to close exactly and correctly.

They also serve as a decorative element. The Chinese frog fasteners are one such decorative fastener that is functional as well as decorative. An exposed zipper serves as a fashionable touch in many a garment. The lacing through eyelets that serve as fastenings for corsets adds to the beauty of the clothing. The decorative effect should be congruous with the style of the rest of the garment or it will look odd.

Related post: Different types of openings in clothes.  

Somethings to keep in mind when sewing fasteners

The fasteners should match correctly on both sides of the garment for it to hang correctly. 

Buttons are always placed on the left side for girls and on the right side for boys

Girls clothing have the right hand side opening over ( on top of) the left hand side.

Boys’ clothing has the left hand side opening over the right hand side.

Never forget to measure and mark the positions of the fasteners before sewing.

Buttonholes should be equally spaced, measured and marked with a gauge.

Different types of Fasteners you can sew on your clothes


This fastener is mostly seen in shoes, belts and bags. They are not so much used nowadays as a fastener in clothing. 

2.Snaps /Press Studs

Snaps are the easiest of all fasteners and are hence seen frequently in baby clothes. I cannot imagine a baby onesie without a snap on button. They are basically interlocking discs, easy to take on and off.
There are different types of snaps. Some can be hand sewn on to clothes, while others need a snap plier to put on. They are also available as snap tape, with several snaps arranged in a row along the length of the tape.

These black or silver metal studs are made of two parts, a ball half and a socket half which snap together. They are useful as a close invisible finish to fairly fine materials, but will not stand a great deal of strain.

Magnetic snaps are usually used as fasteners in bags. Learn more about attaching snap fasteners here.

3.Velcro tapes ( Hook and loop)

Velcro has two parts – one side with harder hooks and one side with softer loops. They are pressed together overlapping to close the opening. Hook and loop tapes are available in different sizes and colours. Velcro was invented only after the world war 2 but now it is very much used in apparel/accessory designing. They are mostly seen on outerwear garments and active sportswear.

100% nylon, hook and loop is produced in several standard colors and the following sizes: 3/8″(10mm), 1/2 (12.5mm) “, 5/8 (16mm) “, 3/4″ (19mm), 1″ (25mm), 1-1/2″ (39mm) , 2″(50mm), 3″,(76mm) 4″ (100mm) and 6” (150mm).

Hook side of the tape is attached to the under lap and the loop part of the tape is attached to the overlap part. 

4.Safety pins

You must have used safety pins as fasteners. Just remember the safety pin that held the cloth diaper of the baby with a duck head. I had a dozen of them when kids were young and lost them frequently. The safety pins come in many sizes but they are mostly silver or golden. 

5.Cuff links

These are fasteners for the cuffs of shirts. The cuffs have buttonholes on both the sides. Cuff links have a flat squarish surface with a loop which fits in both the button holes and locks below.


The brooch is a decorative item with a catch and a pin, which is fastened to the cloth. Brooch serves as a functional as well as decorative fastener though the decorative element is more. They are usually embellished with gems, and decorated heavily with pictures and are made of metal. Check out the tutorial to make easy brooches with fabric.


Zipper I think is the most popular fastener, for kids and adults alike. I like the sound it makes (zip).

Checkout the post on 11 types of zippers and their different parts .

Related posts 

8. Metal Hooks and eye

There are two types of closures for hooks – Eyes which are made with threads and those which are metallic. Thread eyes and small metal eyes are usually stitched on ladies’ garments and the metallic fasteners are seen on men’s trousers.  

They are used on overlapping or edge to edge fastening where there is a lot of strain. These small closures are arranged in rows and they mostly help in distributing the stress on seams like in the back of bras.

On overlapping spaces, the hook is on the upper, overlapping edge. You should space and mark the position of the hooks and eyes with a gauge, for accuracy. 

5 ways to fasten a Hook on to your clothes

9.Frog fasteners

A frog fastener is an ornamental braided loop fastening usually seen in the front of garments. They are made by shaping fabric tubes into a special design. It is a highly decorative fastening which also serves the function of properly closing a garment. It is also called a Chinese frog loop and goes very well with mandarin collar seen in Chinese garments. You can make your own frog fasteners with fabric tubes. Follow this tutorial to make frog closure

10.Toggle fasteners

Toggle is a button like fastener made of wood metal or plastic. Unlike the round shaped buttons, toggles are long and narrow, with big holes for cord to pass through. They are closed with loops of rope or cord, or even leather, to fasten.


These are D shaped rings and these fasteners are usually seen in belts. 2 D rings are used on a belt and one end of the belt is looped through the D rings to fasten it.

 12. Snap hooks/Clasps 

13.Grommets / eyelets

Grommets are metal or plastic rings that reinforce holes in fabrics. Laces or ribbons or cords are threaded through the grommets. The hole is called the eye. Most usually they are seen in shoes, corsets, belts.

Checkout this tutorial to make eyelets on clothes by hand sewing. You can also attach metal grommets using some tools. You need a grommet press which is a grommet setting tool to apply the grommets on fabric. Check out this post on the tools used to attach metal grommets here.

Learn different ways to do the lacing on these eyelets here.

14. Glass studs

These fasteners are mainly for decorative purposes. They are pierced with holes on the fabric. They have metallic base and the upper part is made of glass in different shapes and colours.


Buttons are inarguably the oldest and most used of all fasteners. They are mostly made of plastic but you also get buttons in metal, wood and seashell.

The two kinds of buttons classified as per how they are applied to the fabric are 1. Sew through buttons and 2. Shank buttons. The sew-through-buttons have two or more holes in it through which a thread is inserted to secure it to the fabric by hand sewing or machine sewing.

There are different types of buttons available – Wooden Buttons, Metallic Buttons, Leather buttons, Fancy buttons, Shirt Buttons, Cardigan Buttons, Coat Buttons, Press buttons, Cloth Buttons, Printed buttons, Lac Buttons, Pearl Buttons, Wax Buttons.

Learn more in detail on different types of buttons here.

Checkout the tutorial on how to sew the buttons on to fabrics with a machine as well as by hand.  & the best way to sew an easy hand made buttonhole ; Also 8 types of buttonholes you can make. Checkout the post on sewing buttonholes with your sewing machine as well.

Shank buttons have a plastic or metal shank which raises the button slightly off the fabric and gives room for the button to get under without straining the fabric.

Checkout the 6 ways to make fabric covered / cloth buttons.

Converting beads into buttons is easy and fun. Checkout these posts on turning a bead into a button as well as making bead covered buttons.

16.Cords and ropes 

This is mostly used as tie openings. Usually used in drawstrings in waistbands of pants, skirts. You can learn more about the different types of cords you can use here.

You can DIY cords with fabric scraps – checkout the tutorial for making fabric tubes.  

Checkout the post on waistbands to know how to add drawstring waistband to your clothes. 

17. Sliders

18. Clasps 

These fasteners join together with a twin or corresponding fastener on the other side of the material and serve as a closure.

19. Squeeze buckle

This fastener is used in bag straps and belts.

20. G-hooks.

This is a hook usually used in lingerie as a strap hook or as a clasp for front open bras.

Related posts : Different types of materials used to make bags ; 20 different types of tapes used in sewing; How to sew a waistband in a skirt; Sitemap of sewguide.

 Interesting reading : Ladies’ clothing always buttons right over left, men’s clothing left over right. How has this come about?

  Related posts



Clothes Fastenings – Best for Clothes & Sewing

Clothes fastenings serve a functional purpose in doing up clothing and helping it shape the body, but they can also be decorative and add some creativity to designs. While buttons and zippers come to mind first when thinking of clothes fastenings, they are not the only options for sewers. Beginner sewers can choose easy options such as snaps and Velcro which are quick and simple for all levels and can be adapted to most sewing patterns.

Clothes Fastenings

Types of Clothes Fastenings

There are 13 main clothes fastenings types from buttons to Velcro.


Buttons are one of the first things I think of as a solution to clothes fastenings. They are popular and cheap and relatively easy to sew especially if you have a sewing machine.

Buttons can be plastic, shell, metal, ceramic or even glass and come in a dizzying array of shapes and sizes. The biggest downside of using buttons for clothes fastenings is that you need to sew a buttonhole for it to insert into. This can be done with a machine, by hand or using tiny loops.

2 Hole and 4 Hole Buttons

These are the most common type of buttons and have holes going right through the top to the bottom of the button. They are easy to sew and are quite secure and long-lasting. Hole buttons are used on shirts, jackets, skirts, top – just about all clothing types.

Shank Buttons

Shank buttons have a loop that sticks out from the back of the button. Instead of sewing through the top of the button, the thread passes through this shank to attach to the clothing item. Due to the shank, these buttons stick out on the garment making them best suited to thicker fabrics such as those used for coats and jackets.

How to Sew a Button Video

Here is a video I made to show you how to sew shank and hole buttons by hand. There are weekly sewing and craft videos if you subscribe to the Treasurie YouTube channel.

How to Sew a Button VIDEO

Fabric Buttons

Fabric buttons can be made using a kit and template or you can make your own quite easily. These buttons are perfect when you are looking to match your button perfectly to the fabric of your clothing. Fabric buttons will not wear as well as plastic or metal buttons so are best suited to items that will not be washed quite as often.

Stud Buttons

Stud buttons are the style you find on jeans. They are made from metal and rather than sewing, they are attached to the fabric by way of a stud setting at the back. These are mostly professionally attached but you can purchase small kits at most haberdasheries that include a setting tool.

Stud buttons on jeans and denim jackets are often patterned and branded with logos and letters.


Buckles can be used to fasten belts, shoes, and even clothing. They come in metal, plastic and wood and can be plain or decorative. Some buckles simply thread through and others have a tongue that will need to go into a hole or eyelet.

Buckle Clothes Fastenings


Eyelets will need to be used in conjunction with either a buckle or used to thread a cord through. Eyelets are extremely common on leather and denim garments and are durable and able to take a lot of pressure. Thin articles of clothing are not suitable for eyelets as they tend to tear the fabric.

Eyelet Clothes Fastenings

Fabric Ties

Fabric ties can be used in conjunction with eyelets or fabric loops or can be sewn into the seam of an opening. Fabric ties are usually thin so they will tie easily without coming undone. These clothes fastenings are often found at the neck or back openings and can be matching or a decorative contrast color. You will find fabric ties at the back of many wedding dresses enabling them to fit between a few sizes and adding a corsetry look.

Further Reading: How to Make Spaghetti Straps

Ties Clothes Fastenings

Frog Fasteners

Frog closures are braided clothes fastenings often found on Eastern clothing. They consist of 2 sides, one with a knot and the other a loop. These clothes fastenings can also be called frogging and were initially found on military uniforms from the 17th Century. The frog closures were often excessive and decorative.

Frog Closures

Hook and Eyes

Hook and eyes are often used at the top of a zipper rather than as a stand-alone clothes fastener. They can also be used at the neck where a small slit is used to enable a top to be put over the head. While they come in different sizes and compositions, most clothing uses small silver metal hook and eyes. Hooks and eyes are found at the back of bras and can be used in lingerie.

Further Reading: How to Sew Hook and Eyes

Hook and Eye Clothes Fastenings

Kam Snaps

Kam snaps are a plastic brand of snaps that are particularly popular on baby nappies and clothing. They are hand set with a pliers style of tool and are great for home sewers. Kams come with different sized posts that you will need to match to the thickness of the fabric you are using. Kam snaps are readily available on eBay and Amazon and are an inexpensive clothes fastener.

Further Reading: How to Set Kam Snaps

Clothes Fasteners – Kam Snaps

Ribbons and Cords

Ribbons and cords can be used in a similar way to fabric ties. They can be sewn into a seam and tied or laced through holes or loops. Ribbon is commonly used in wedding dresses and corsets.

Further Reading: Types of Ribbons

Sew in Snaps (Press Studs)

Sew in snaps have 4 holes around their perimeter through which you hand sew. They are easy for beginners to sew and come in various sizes from small to really big. They are mainly composed of black or silver metal but you can also purchase plastic ones.

Further Reading: How to Sew Snaps

Sew in Snaps

Snaps (Press Studs)

Press studs or snaps are easy clothes fastening options that are set with pliers or a special tool. They normally come in kits which include the tool.

Further Reading: How to Insert Snaps


Do you love Paddington Bear? Well, his little coat has wooden toggles. Toggles are a long bar-shaped button that is secured with a loop and can be found on coats. The term toggles is also used for the metal or plastic stopper found on the cords of hats and activewear and drawstring bags.


Velcro (Hook and Loop Tape)

Velcro is the brand name for hook and loop tape and is one of the wonders of modern sewing. It is easy for even beginners to sew and is great for bags and children’s clothing.

Velcro Clothes Fastenings

Velcro comes in various widths but most common is ¾ inch (2cm). You cut it to length and sew half on either side of your closure. Also available is baby Velcro which is narrower and softer.

Velcro is usually purchased on rolls and you will pay by the yard or metre. It can also be purchased in pre-glued dots.

However you purchase it, make sure it is designed for sewing. Non-sewing types will gum up your needle if they have glue or may be too thick or stiff to even sew through. Skipped stitches are common when sewing Velcro, so use a sharp thick needle and a good quality thread.

Further Reading: How to Sew Velcro


Zippers have long been used as a neat and almost invisible way to secure clothing. Zippers can be metal or plastic and come in various lengths. They also come in various teeth sizes so you can match the style and durability to the item you are sewing.

When reading sewing patterns, keep in mind that zippers are measured from metal stopper to stopper and not along the tape which is often a couple of inches longer. Most common as a clothes fastener is the invisible zipper which can be used in skirts, pants and dresses. Zippers can be shortened, often saving you a trip to the shop.

Clothes Fasteners – In Conclusion

Clothes fasteners are a necessary part of sewing so learn how to attach some of the easiest types and slowly build your skills. There are many alternatives to buttons and zippers for beginners so don’t let a fastener stop you from making something beautiful.

Fabric Fasteners – Clips, Snaps, Buckles and More

Snaps are also popular in children’s clothing and clothing for the disabled, making garments more comfortable to put on and remove. Costumes and stage clothes also use various types of snaps for quick changes and “pull-off” parts during concerts and other performances.

Their simple design makes snap fastener useful for all kinds of applications, including:

  • Purses
  • Coats
  • Tote bags
  • Luggage
  • Footwear (decorative and functional)
  • Saddles
  • Other leather goods
  • Animal leashes
  • Canvas, including sails
  • Attaching the fabric to a non-fabric object, such as wood

Snaps can be used in place of buttons on many garments and craft applications as long as there is enough space to add them. They’re useful in all kinds of different craft projects, from curtain tie-backs that snap together to bespoke ad-hoc additions like a snap-in sweatband for hard hats. You can find a wide range of more unique and useful snap projects on blogs and websites like Pinterest.

Snap Fastener Anatomy

These closures consist of four pieces, two for each side of the snap:

  • The socket, or “female” part of the snap
  • The snap cap, or the top that attaches to the socket, seen on the outside of the garment or project
  • The stud, the ball, or “male” part of the snap, which snaps into the socket, holding two pieces together
  • The open prong, which attaches the stud part to the fabric from the underside. The prongs are slid into the back side of the stud and connected by use of setting pliers, a press, or a hammer with an anvil tool.

Once assembled, they work together to create a secure closure that keeps fabrics or other items together.

Our heavy-duty Nickel-To-Cloth Nickel Cloth-to-Surface Snap Fastener (sometimes known as a “gypsy snap”) is the exception. It’s slightly different, consisting of three pieces, not four. The top of the snap is a two-part cover, but the third piece consists of a Phillips screw that’s fastened into wood or other surfaces to allow the fabric to be snapped on and attached.

Types of Snaps

Snaps that are used on shirts and in other decorative fashions come in four parts, which look similar to a button, but. The “cover” is usually a metal or a decorative “cap,” such as the pearl-look versions found on Western shirts.

Our open-ring snaps have a pronged ring for both the socket and the stud part of the snap. We also carry them with button caps, both metal and enameled colors for a more finished look. These metal snaps come in gold, silver, bronze, and gunmetal.

We also carry plastic snaps, including plastic snap buttons, commonly used for home sewing, on baby items, and in other household craft projects.   We also offer a plastic a snap fastener kit with 100 snaps in multiple colors, plus pliers and tools to make installation easy. 

Magnetic snaps are a more modern version using simple magnetic force to keep something closed. Commonly used on purses and bags, they’re great for many applications. These snaps consist of two backing washers, along with pronged snap and socket (“male” and “female”) parts.

Want a more concealed snap closure to keep your purse or bag safer? Our round and square hidden snaps can be added nearly anywhere to ensure a tight, hidden closure without any special equipment. You’ll need to construct a small pouch to stitch them to the inside of your bag so they don’t move around. Bags close and stay closed until you open them and snap back closed when you want. 

Snap Fastener Installation

 Sewists can be intimidated by snaps, but once you learn installation and practice it, they become easier.

Just like buttonholes, you need to decide where you want your snap fasteners on your finished project. Measure and mark your snap spots with disappearing ink to prevent staining.

Start with the bottom, or stud part of the snap. This is the part of the prong that goes inside of a garment or other project. Insert the prong ring on the underside of the fabric and push it through the fabric so that the prongs appear on the top. Add the stud part on top. The snap cap is centered over the socket in the same manner.

If you’re using eyelet and snap fastener pliers, you’ll center the parts in the work area and squeeze them firmly until the snap is set in place. However, you’ll need one for each size of snap you want to use.

If you’re using a hammer and anvil setter, you’ll need a firm surface like a cutting board, and a towel to prevent damage to the snap. Use enough pressure to set the snap, but not so much that you flatten it!

Maybe you have more than just a few snaps,  or need to add them more often. The fastest, easiest and most accurate way to install snaps is with our Press Machines. Made for snaps, grommets, eyelets and other embellishments, you can install any number of snaps accurately and quickly. Set up the snap with the prong ring on the bottom die, and the stud or socket in the top, then put your fabric in place. An easy push of the handle sets the snap in place fast, and correctly every time. 

You’ll need a die for each size of snap you want to install. We have over 1,500 dies for our press machines, so getting the right one is easy. Watch us demonstrate how easy it is in this video.

Magnetic snaps are more straightforward, with wide prongs on the back of the snap and socket parts that slip into washers. You’ll need to cut holes in your for the prongs, slide the prongs through the fabric and the slots on the washer. Once you’ve joined the two parts, bend the prongs inward. You can also use our press to install the 4-part magnetic snaps, as demonstrated in our video.

GoldStar Tools Is Your Snap Headquarters

From baby clothes to heavy canvas and sailcloth, snaps are as popular to use as buttons and hold even better. We have snaps for nearly any kind of project, from home sewing and crafting to professional factories and shops, and all the tools necessary to help you install them. Our snaps come in a range of metals and colors, and available in any size you need.

Are you thinking about buying a press instead of a snap fastener tool to speed up your snap installs? Check out our selection of presses first, and the dies you need for your snaps. You can also purchase new dies in the correct size to go with other sizes and types of snaps you need.

Want to see more? Our YouTube channel has over 200 videos of our products in action. Learn how to install snaps and other fasteners using our exclusive presses and see what works best—before you buy. If you have questions about snaps, presses, or any other of our unique tools and machines, feel free to call us at 1-800-868-4419, email us at [email protected] or contact us online.

Types of Clothing Closures | AllFreeSewing.


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Types of Fasteners – Sewing


Fasteners are the items which are used to close a garment opening. They are deco-rative as well as functional. Care should be taken while selecting a fastener as they must be rust free and withstand laun-dering. They can be selected to match the colour, design and texture of the gar-ment. Decorative fasteners are sewen to add beauty to the garment. Example: car-toon shaped button on the centre front line of baby’s frock with back opening. Functional buttons sewen as closure to the garment, it helps in fitting the garment very close to the body. Example: Shirt buttons sewen in the centre front line of a men’s shirt. Fasteners should be always sewen on two layers of fabric to ensure strength. Fasteners can be conspicuous or inconspicuous. Example: Shirt buttons on the shirt centre front line and hook in women’s blouses respectively. Generally, fasteners are sewen in garments to create a left lap overlap the right for women and vice-verse for men’s garment.


Types of Fasteners


Press Button

Press buttons are available in different sizes and weights and are used to hold edges that will not have much strain when the garment is worn. It has two sections: a stud and a socket. The stud is attached on the wrong side of the overlap and the socket comes over its impression on the underside of the placket. The press but-tons have four holes into which button-hole stitches are made to hold them firmly to the garment. This is best suited for kids garments (Figure 12.28).


Hook and Eyes/Loops

Hook and Eye / loops are generally used in plackets. The hook is placed about 0.5 cm inside the finished edge on the wrong side of the overlap and the eye or loop comes on the underside of the placket. Hooks and eyes are used mostly in close fitting gar-ments like blouse. They also available in dif-ferent size, but circular in shape and is made out of metals. Hooks are metals with curved structure at the top with two parallel lines and finished with two circles at the bottom. Button hole stitches are made at the circles placing the hook on the garment to fix the hook onto the garment (Figure 12.29).

There are two types of eyes, namely metal and thread loops. The metal loops are sub divided as straight and “U” shaped. Both have circles at the end which is used as a mode to sew the eye to the garment with button hole stitches.

The loop eyes are also of two types, namely thread loops and fabric loops. Thread loops are made by sewing four to five straight stitches across the under lap to match the hook, using same colour thread as the garment. Button hole stitch is made on these strands. Fabric loops are made of strips of fabric matching the gar-ment. These strips are made into tube like structure, turned to push the seams inside, to give a neat loop. This strip is cut and placed on the required area and machined.

They form a loop on the placket open to extend outside to hold the but-ton on the opposite side of the garment. The size and width of the placket varies depending upon the garment and size of the button. These loops can be used for decoration also (Figure 12.30).


Buttons and Button Holes :

Buttons are both functional as well as decorative. They should be selected with care to suit the colour, design and tex-ture of the fabric and style of the garment. Decorative buttons vary in the form of glass, metal and plastic. Buttons have two or four holes. Mark the area where the button has to be sewen. Place the button and make a crosswise or vertical stitch connecting the four holes in the buttons. If the button is with a single hole in the wrong side of the button, place this on the right side of the garment, insert the nee-dle from back side, through the garment and then pass the thread into the hole in the back side of the button and then pick the needle back into the garment. This is repeated 3 to 4 times to fix the button. Buttonholes are slits cut in the garment to hold the buttons in place. It can be made vertically or horizontally with the button sitting exactly at the centre of the front line. The raw edges of the slit are finished with buttonhole stitch (Figure 12.31).



Zippers come in a wide variety of colours, length and types. All zippers consists either a chain of metal or plastic teeth or a synthetic coil joined to a fabric tape made of cotton or cotton polyester blend.

It has stoppers at the top or bottom which keep the sliders from running off the zip-per. There are three basic types of zip-pers available in the market. They are (Figure 12.32).

(i)       Conventional Zipper: These are zippers with exposed teeth or chain and open at the top but are held together at the bottom.

(ii)    Separating Zipper: They are open at both the top and the bottom and permit the zipper opening to sepa-rate completely as in jackets with opened fronts.

(iii)  Invisible Zipper: They are the newest zippers and as the name implies they are not visible in the front as they disappear into the seam. They are mostly used in skirts and in dresses.

Other types of zippers include two way zipper, trouser zipper and decorative zipper.


Elastics are used in areas where stretching is desired. There are different types of elas-tics available in the market and should be selected carefully according to the end use of the garment. It can be used as a casing or can be stitched directly on the garment. Some of the common types of elastic are-

(i)       Braided Elastic: This elastic nar-rows when stretched and so used for casing.

(ii)    Woven Elastic: The width of the elastic remains same even when stretched and so can be stitched directly to the garment or for casing.

(iii)  Elastic Thread: It is also called Bobbin Elastic. It is very thin elastic covered with thread all around and is mostly used in bobbins for giving shirring effect.

(iv)  Special Purpose Elastic: Special elastics are available for pajamas, lungies and swim-wear.


Tapes and Cords

Different types of tapes and cords are available which are both functional as well as decorative. They come in a variety of types, widths and colours and its selec-tion should depend mainly on its end use. Some of the common tapes available are-

(i)       Seam Tape: Seam tapes are woven or lace tapes. They are used to finish hem and facing edges.

(ii)    Binding Tape: Binding tapes are used for binding curved or straight edges and for casings.

(iii)  Twill Tape: Twill tapes are mostly used for reinforcing seams.

(iv)  Piping: Piping tapes are narrow bias strip of fabrics that can be inserted into a seam for decorative purpose.

(v)    Hem Facing: Hem facing tapes are wide bias tape or lace which is used on facing hems and binding edges.

(vi)  Ribbon Tape: Ribbon tapes are knit-ted bands which are stretchable and can be used to finish necklines, arm holes, sleeve, leg or waistline.



Velcro is the commercial name for loop and hook fasteners. Velcro is a set of two tapes one with a looped napped surface and other with a hooked napped sur-face. When both the surfaces are pressed together they grip and remain locked until pulled apart. They are usually made of nylon and are available in meters. They are used on cuffs, plackets, mosquito nets and other such items. Velcro is popular in infant garments.



Buckles are one of the most interesting types of fasteners. Buckles are available in plastic, iron, brass, steel and other such materials. The market is filled with a wide variety of shapes and sizes. There are two types of buckles – one with prongs which need eyelets to be attached with it and the other without prongs which do not need any eyelets. Eyelets can be ready- made,          made out of metals or stitched made out of fabrics (Figure 12.33).

Hook and Eye Closure  – clothing terms presented by Apparel Search

Term Definition

A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts, each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the “eye” or “eyelet”) protruding. To fasten the garment, the hook is slotted into the loop. Simply constructed of bent wire, hook-and-eye closures are typically used in groups to provide sufficient strength to bear the forces involved in normal wear. For this reason, hooks and eyes are commonly available in the form of hook-and-eye tape, consisting of two tapes, one equipped with hooks and the other equipped with eyelets in such a way that the two tapes can be “zipped” together side-by-side. To construct the garment, sections of hook-and-eye tape are sewn into either side of the garment closure.

Hook-and-eye closures are commonly used in corsetry and brassiere, see figure 2 and figure 3.

Many zippers on skirts or dresses, particularly those on garments with back or side zippers, are accompanied by a hook-and-eye closure at the top.


In a Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods, under the name of crochet and loop, this form of fastening was in use in England as early as the fourteenth century. Usually they appear on the corset in this country .All the hooks and eyes are made in New England. Size ranged from No. 1 small, to No. 10 large.

In 1830s, corsets became more popular. In 1847, Front fastening stays with patent clipswas found, which believed that the patent clips is the former form of busk. Start from then, most corsets were made with front fastening stays, which were quicker to put on and take off. See the Figure 5.

By 1850s, the split busk was invented. Busk is the rigid element of a corset placed at the center front. It was made of 2 long pieces of steel, one side has a series of studs that locked into specially shaped corresponding eyelet holes.

Later on, different shape of busks appeared to serve different needs due to the rise in concern of women’s health. See Figure 6. During 1880s, the ‘spoon busk was developed which supposedly put less pressure on the abdomen.

In 1893, Marie Tucek patented the Breast Supporter

the first garment similar to the modern-day bra that used shoulder straps with a hook-and-eye closure to support the breasts in pockets of fabric. See Figure 7. The shoulder strap was rigidly secure to the center front by using the hook and eyes at straps. A numbers of hook and eye employed on the strap respectively to hook the latter after they are drawn tight over the shoulder and back of the person. It made the center part to fit snugly upon the wearers
body directly under the breast.

In 19th century, people started to patent this form of fasteners in USA. In 1900 June, E.C Beecher patented his form of hook and eye to US government, which propose to be sewn on the 2 sides of the garment and use as a fastener. See Figure 8.

A more similar hook and eye which use in brassieres nowadays was patented during nineteenth century in 1902, invented by M.E. Company. See Figure 9. It was considered as an improvement of hook and eye. Besides, it provides a hook and eye that can be readily attached without necessity of stitching or sewing.

Nowadays, hook and eye is still the most common form of fastening on brassieres.

Timeline of Hook and Eye tape Events
14th Crochet and Loop appeared in New England
19th (in 1847s) Front fastening with patent clips in corset
19th (in 1850s) Split busks appeared in corset
19th (in 1880s) Spoon busks
19th (in 1893s)
Breast Supporter
was patented by Marie Tucek which the 1st hook and eye appeared in brassier
20th (in 1900- 1902s) Similar hook and eyes in brassier being patented
21st Nowadays hook and eye tape in Bra

Manufacturing Process

In the production of hook and eye, they can be divided into 2 parts, according to different stages with respect to different component parts of the hook and eye.

Part 1. The pre-production

1.Prepare tricot fabric for hook and eye tape. The hook and eye tape are made by several layers of fabric, one of the layer is brushed tricot, which gives better comfort to the users.See figure 10 for a tricot knitting machine. 2.The fabric roll is put on the automatic cutting machine. By using computer system, the fabric roll is cut into a specific width according to the size of hook and eye tape.See figure 11 for an automatic cut tape machine. 3.Prepare hook and eye buckles. The coiled wire, which can be in white, black, gold or silver, is fed into a bending machine,see figure 12, by setting the automatic computer system, the wire can be bended to different hook or eye shape. 4.The hook and eye buckles are sent to dye, the process is depended on the raw material of the buckles. White colored buckles will be sent to dye into different color or keep it as white. Black buckle will only use to make black hook and eye. For silver or gold color, the color is usually made by electroplating.

Part 2. The Production

Hook and eye tapes are sewn by different machines, one is the eye sewing machine and the other is the hook sewing machine.

1. For the hook sewing machines, see figure 13, the hook buckles were put into a container and it will place the buckle one by one on the cut tape and sew it onto the fabric and form a tape automatically, see figure 14 The distance between each hook can be pre-set into the computer program.

2. For the eye tape sewing machines, the working process is similar to the hook sewing machine. However, the machines are place in a row according to the number of column for the eyelets. In figure 15, it is a 3 column eyelets tape which is sewn by 3 sewing machines, each responsible for on row of eyelets. In figure 16, it is a 2 column eyelets tape sewing set.

3. The hook and eye tapes were made in a row form. It was then sent to cut or undergo other finishing according to customers
need. For example, overprinting or use ultra-sonic to make a logo on the tape, pre-cut to a specific row etc. Figure 18 is an ultrasonic hook and eye tape sealing and cutting machine.

What Actually is A Clothing Fastener?

What actually is a “clothing fastener”?

Simply put, it’s a device used to hold two pieces of fabric together. In practice, we use a clothing fastener like a button or zipper so we can easily take off and put on the garment.

Besides its functional purpose, however, the fastener can play a significant part in dictating the garment’s style or aesthetics. For example, a leather jacket featuring a zipper will be significantly different—style-wise—when compared to a similarly designed leather jacket utilizing buttons.

Below are several common types of clothing fasteners and how you can be creative with them.


Often called zip fastener or slide fastener, a zipper involves two flexible strips of fabric that are glued to a row plastic or metal “teeth” (also called elements) and joined together with a slider. Zippers are the usual fastener choice for jackets, dresses, skirts, and pants. Zippers can come in various different materials offering different levels of strength and flexibility. “Stronger” zippers, for example, are commonly used for denim, while thinner, zippers might be used for dresses. There are also various sub-types like the invisible zipper—where the elements are hidden behind the fabric or nylon strips—, commonly used for skirts.


A fastener system that involves a long ribbon or cord. Quite similar to a zipper, the system utilizes two pieces of fabrics with many holes lining the edges, and the long ribbon is intertwined in a zig-zag pattern into these holes to cinch the two fabrics together. Back in the Victorian Era (17th century) until the early 20th century, this fastening system is very common in female clothing, especially in Western societies. Nowadays, lacing is mostly used in shoes and boots. Modern corsets, for example, no longer utilized lacing as the fastening system but replaced with hooks and eyes system or grommets—metal rings that are pressed flat— to create an easier to use lacing system.


Arguably the most common clothing fastener today, and commonly used in coats, shirts, and pants. A button is a small, round thing made of mainly plastic (but also metal and other materials) that is sewn to a piece of fabric. The other side of the fabric has small holes to allow the button to be inserted into it, fastening the two fabrics in place. A button typically has two to four small holes to allow us to sew them, permanently securing the button on one piece of the fabric.

Hooks and Eyes

Involving two different parts: the “hook” and the “eyes” that are interlocked together. The hook part involves a curved shape, in which the ends are connected to two small circles. The eyes part involves a flat, U-shaped metal loop at each end. Each of these parts is sewn onto the different pieces of the fabric, and to fasten the garment, we can simply insert the hook into the loop.

OKPD2 code 25.99.25 – Fasteners, frames with fasteners, buckles, buckles-fasteners, hooks, rings, loops and similar articles of base metals used for clothing, footwear, awnings, handbags, travel accessories or other finished products; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; beads and sparkles of base metals

Classifier OKPD2

Code 25. 99.25

Explanation: Clasps, frames with clasps, buckles, buckles-clasps, hooks, rings, loops and similar items used for non-precious metals clothing, shoes, awnings, handbags, travel accessories, or other finished goods; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; beads and sparkles from base metals

Comments: the classifier does not contain comments to this code

Old code: the transition key is not specified

Record in the OKPD2 classifier with code 25.99.25 contains 1 specifying (child) code:

Supply of equipment for the needs of the “Vladivostok” branch of the Federal State Unitary Enterprise “Moscow PrOP” Ministry of Labor of Russia

Found in documents | Clasps, clasp frames, buckles, clasp clasps, hooks, rings, eyelets and similar articles of base metal of a kind used for clothing, footwear, awnings, handbags, travel accessories or other finished articles; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; beads and sparkles from base metals – 6 pcs.

EIS purchases | Purchase from a single supplier, tender completed 16 October 2018

Purchase completed

Purchase of insignia and medals for employees of Atom-protection JSC

Found in documents | Clasps, clasp frames, buckles, clasp clasps, hooks, rings, eyelets and similar articles of base metal of a kind used for clothing, footwear, awnings, handbags, travel accessories or other finished articles; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; beads and sparkles from base metals – 820 units

EIS purchases | Purchase tender completed August 29, 2019

Purchase completed

Supply of household goods and a safe for the needs of Frolovskaya secondary school Navigator

Found in documents | Clasps, clasp frames, buckles, clasp clasps, hooks, rings, eyelets and similar articles of base metal of a kind used for clothing, footwear, awnings, handbags, travel accessories or other finished articles; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; beads and sparkles from base metals – 1 piece

EIS purchases | Purchase from a single supplier tender completed 22 October 2019

purchase completed

Supply of office supplies

Found in documents | Clasps, clasp frames, buckles, clasp clasps, hooks, rings, eyelets and similar articles of base metal of a kind used for clothing, footwear, awnings, handbags, travel accessories or other finished articles; tubular e or forked rivets of base metal; base metal beads and sequins – 8 pack

Rs tender | Electronic auction tender completed on November 6, 2019

purchase completed

Sew-on hooks – what are they, how to choose and sew correctly – Lessons

Hooks are a very old type of hardware. Our great-grandmothers also used a hook fastener in their clothes.

This clasp is very reliable, it holds the details firmly. But, there is one problem – surprisingly, but not everyone knows how to sew a hook neatly. Often the result is a very unsightly and sloppy sight.

Therefore, I propose to consider the technology of this process in detail.

Sew-on hooks are used to make a secret fastener, which should not be visible on the front side of the product.

They are sewn slightly above the zipper (on skirts and trousers without a belt) or practically along the waistline, at the belt.

T. o. the hook secures the zipper from opening. Sometimes hooks are generally used to replace zippers or buttons.

Modern hooks are made from a wide variety of materials – steel, brass, nickel. When deciding on the choice, keep in mind that the hook should not rust when washing, otherwise it will ruin the thing.

The shape, color of the hook can also be very different – large, small, white, black, gold-like, standard shape or fancifully curved.

The size of the hook is measured by the total length of its connected parts and can be 1; 1.4; 1.8; 3; 3.5 cm, etc.

Sew on the hook only horizontally, and so that it is guaranteed to be hidden by the details of the garment.

We choose the threads for sewing to match the color of the fabric. We do not tie a knot at the end of the thread, we insert the needle from the wrong side, putting the end of the thread between the layers of fabric. Then we sew a few stitches back with the needle to secure the thread.

Sewing options depend on the shape of the hook – see.drawing. In the first case, it is enough to fasten in three places with three stitches. In the second case, we sew the hook in four places, also making three stitches.

Then, to secure, we again make a few stitches back the needle, remove the needle and thread from the fabric, pull it a little and cut it close to the surface. As a result, the tail of the thread will hide in the layers of the fabric.

How to position the hooks on the clasp butt-on

The top of the hook should not reach the edge of the fabric by 3 mm.The counterpart – the loop – should protrude beyond the edge of the fabric by the same 3 mm – see the picture.

When the crochet hooks come together, the edges of the fabric will come together.

How to position the hooks on the overlapping clasp

The hook should be in the middle of the part, for example, the belt.

First we sew the hook itself onto the inner side of the belt. In this case, we retreat from the end of the belt a distance equal to the length of the loop.

Then we hook up the loop on the sewn hook, stretch the grip to the maximum, align the edges of the belt in working position and mark the place for sewing on the loop at the second end of the belt.It is best to secure the loop with pins. Then we sew on the loop.

The number of hooks, the place of their sewing – depends on the specific model. There are several options – see the pictures below.

And now – another very useful video from Keep Dream
– how to sew bra hooks!
Thanks to the author!

How to sew on hooks

How to sew on the hooks correctly?

Hello everyone!

Once upon a time, when “trees were big” for me, I often met such aunts on whose skirts hooks played the role of a fastener.Then, not understanding anything, I thought that the hook fastener was because of laziness and poverty.

In general, this is not true. So, because during the times of the total Soviet deficit, there was nothing else, and even in sufficient quantity and variety, and there was nothing. Buttons cannot be bought, buttons are generally something from the world of fantasy.

Not so, because as I got older I realized that it is not so easy to sew the hooks correctly and neatly.

Many years have passed since then, and the hooks are still alive! And they will live for a very, very long time! Because the hook closure is very strong and reliable.

Now, in our time, I have radically changed my attitude to hooks. And I consider them to be full members of the furniture society.

Now sewing lovers have another problem, no less difficult, the problem of choice. The problem is to choose the right thing that is needed, then what is right. Well, it’s time to get to know the hooks better.

There are simple sewing, trouser and fur coat hooks.

Simple sew-on hooks.

Common traditional sew-on hooks are the fighters of the “invisible front”, they are never displayed.

They are intended for making a secret fastener, which in no case should be visible from the front side of the product.

As a rule, sew-on hooks are placed on the garment just above the zipper or at the waist line, on the belt. The location of the hook just above the zipper is made for insurance that the hook will not allow the zipper slider to fall down under pressure and will not allow the sides of the zipper to spill out during movement.

On the waist line, on the belt, sew-on hooks play the role of an additional, safety part to the zipper.But sew-on hooks can do the job of a full-fledged fastener if they completely replace the traditional row of buttons or zippers.

The most common traditional sewing hooks are also not ignored by technical progress. Sew-on hooks are produced by different manufacturers, from different metals. For example, brass, nickel, mild steel, all kinds of metal compounds (alloys), etc.

On sale you can find a variety of hooks in shape, color and size.Black, white, gray, silver, gold, blackened, nickel-plated, large and small, the usual shape and curved in a new, modern way.

The size of the sewing hook is determined by the length of both (interlocked) parts of the hook, directly by the hook and loop itself. For example, sew-on hooks can be 1, 1.4, 1.8, 3, 3.5 cm long, etc.

Hooks are available in several sizes. But when choosing hooks, I think it is hardly very important what size is written on the package.I suppose you shouldn’t dwell on this. It will be enough to visually compare the appearance and dimensions of the hook with the part on which it will be “placed”.

But the material from which the hook is made, it is very important to choose the right one. After all, the finished thing will need to be washed. So that the hooks with rust do not spoil the life of either the finished product or its owner, you need to choose hooks from materials that do not corrode, do not rust. It can be nickel, brass, or some other corrosion-resistant coated metal.

In general, choose hooks from trusted manufacturers, whose products you are already familiar with, have worked with. Or those unfamiliar, but who do not hide any information about their products (hooks), but, on the contrary, convey it to the consumer in every possible way. For example, on packages.

Large sew-on hooks are sold in one pair, smaller ones in packs, in blisters or sewn onto cardboard strips. From which, customers, cut off the required number of hooks with loops.

How to properly sew on sew-on hooks with loops?

Despite the fact that the sew-on hooks sometimes look quite different from each other, the technology of their sewing to the product is very similar.

1. Both the hook and the loop, these two parts of the sewing hook, are always placed horizontally on the garment and only on the wrong side or under the “cover” of other parts.

As everyone knows, on women’s clothing, the right edge of the fastener is always on the left. Therefore, one part of the sewing hook, the hook itself, should be located on the product (when looking at the finished product from the front side) on the left, on the inside of the belt, and the other part, the loop, on the right. Then the hook, with a natural movement of the hand, along the course of the fastener, will easily catch on the loop.

2. The threads for sewing on such a hook must match the color of the main fabric. For the thickness of the thread, a needle of the appropriate size is selected so that the punctures from the needle are small. You cannot tie a knot at the end of the thread.

3. So that there are no traces of the presence of sewing hooks on the front side of the product, you need to use the point of a needle, with a threaded, doubled thread, to penetrate into the material and make one stitch, so that the end of the thread is lost in the material. And then, you need to gain a foothold in this place, “trampled”, making a few stitches back the needle.

4. Both hook and loop are sewn to the garment in two versions. Which one to choose depends on the shape of the hook. After all, as you could see by looking at the picture in the article above, hooks and loops come with closely spaced sides of the base and widely spaced.

1st option. We sew in three places. In both holes, on both parts, 3 – 4 securing stitches are made and 3 – 4 stitches across, sewn together, the two sides of the base of the hook and loop.

2nd option.We sew in four places. As in the previous version, 3 – 4 securing stitches are made into both holes, on both parts, and then 3 – 4 stitches across, the bases of the hooks and loops are sewn, but each side is separate.

5. Once again, after making a few stitches, back the needle to secure the thread, pull it out of the material far to the side and carefully cut it close to the surface of the material.

6. Sometimes, in order to make the fastener on sew-on hooks even less noticeable or more plastic, flexible, then instead of a metal loop, in pair with the hook, you can make a loop of threads.You can read how it is done here. But, the clasp on the model can be butt-fastened or overlapped. And the sewing hook is then located, on such models, in different ways.

How to position sew-on hooks and eyes on butt-fastener models?

On models with a butt closure, the hook itself is positioned so that its tip is up to 3 mm from the edge of the fabric. And the other part of the sewing hook, the loop, should protrude from the edge of the fabric by the same distance.

This is done so that when the loop and hook are connected (interlocked with each other), the edges of the fastener come together butt to each other.

How to position sew-on hooks and eyes on overlapped models?

If the sewing-on hooks perform the tasks of a full-fledged fastener on the model, then, like other ordinary fasteners (buttons, zippers), the sewing hooks should also be located on the product along the middle line.

If the sew-on hooks will be located on the waist line, on the belt, the edges of which are overlapped, then the first thing to start with is to sew one part of the sew-on hook, the hook itself, on the left, inner side of the belt (if you look at the fastener from the front side).It must be sewn from the edge of the belt, at a distance that is equal to the length of the loop.

On the sewn-on hook, hook the second part of the sewn-on hook and loop. And keeping them as stretched as possible, in different directions, as if they were already working,

close the zipper and look at the end of the belt, on the right side, where is the place where the loop should be located.

And use pins to attach the loop to this place.

And then sew with stitches.

How many sew-on hooks to place, one, two, three, etc., on models where the edges of the belt are fastened with butt and overlap, depends on the width of the belt, on the shape of its ends and on the size of the hooks. But the main thing is, as they say, “the suit was sitting.” That is, the edges of the belt did not protrude, did not bend back and reliably insured the lightning from moving around its sides, while driving.

And you can read about how to sew on trouser hooks in the next article.And that’s all for today!

Good luck to everyone! Best regards, Milla Sidelnikova!


How to sew on a trouser hook?

Friends, hello everyone!

Let’s continue …

Although they say trouser hooks, you can use them as a fastener on a wide variety of skirts, shorts, raincoats, jackets, etc. These hooks are already significantly stronger, if I may say so, heavier than simple sew-on hooks and can hold the edges of the fastener on products made of very strong and thick fabrics.

Like simple, sew-on hooks with loops, trouser hooks are made by different manufacturers, from different metals, of various shapes and sizes.

But trouser hooks have evolved much more than simple sew-on hooks, and are already more diverse in the composition of components and methods of attachment to the product.

Today there are the following types of trouser hooks:

  • sewn trouser hook with eyes;
  • Sew-on trouser hook with adjustable loops;
  • hook – button;
  • punching trouser hook on thorns.

Sew-on trouser hook with eyes.

All those trouser hooks, sewn on, with eyes, which can be purchased in various specialized stores selling accessories for sewing, are very different from each other in appearance. And the eyes, for which such a hook is attached to the product, may be of a different number. And 5, and 6, and 7 pieces.

But they consist, all sew-on trouser hooks, with eyes, always of only two parts. The first detail, the hook itself.It is usually a differently curved metal plate. The second detail is the loop. A narrow metal plate is a frame that is much smaller in size than the first part.

And any pair of such trouser hooks is sewn to the product like this. Small, round eyes are sewn with 3-4 stitches, and large oblong eyes, in rows of parallel stitches, which are laid close to each other.

Pant hooks, sew-on, with eyes, intended for making only secret fasteners and only overlapping fasteners.And they are always sewn so that they cannot be seen from the front side.

These hooks act as a complement to the zipper at the waist, at the belt. They protect the lightning from breakage and divergence of its sides during operation.

Now let’s see how such a pair is located directly on the product.

How to sew on trouser hooks correctly?

1. First, a needle and thread, matched to each other and to the main color tone of the product, are passed through the upper layers of the material, in the place where the hook will be located.With this first stitch, you need to bring the end of the thread into the material, and then a few stitches back the needle to fasten the thread to the product.

First, on the left, inner side of the belt, a hook is sewn (when viewed from the front side).

2. Then, the loop must be hooked onto the hook. As if they were already working.

3. While holding the loop with your fingers, close the zipper all the way.

Or vice versa, first close and then insert the loop into the hook.Does not matter.

4. “Terrain”, at the other end of the belt, where the loop is, “reprinted” and there is a place to which it must be attached. First, with pins, so that the loop does not move,

and then with a needle and thread, stitches, it is attached to this place.

This is how a sew-on trouser hook with eyes is sewn, in addition to the zipper, which is located on the model of clothes in the seam, in the center.

On trousers and other types of clothing, where the zipper is slightly shifted to the left side of the center (when viewed from the front side), such a hook is performed in the same way.Only, due to the fact that the zipper in such fasteners is moved, then the loop is shifted slightly to the side of it.

If such hooks completely replace the usual fastener (buttons, zipper), then the line of engagement of the hook and loop should be located on the product along the line of the middle of the fastener.

On men’s clothing, where the edges of the fastener meet each other from left to right, the trouser hooks are made in the same way, but only in a mirror image. How much to place sewn on trouser hooks with eyes on the product depends on the width of the belt, the shape and length of both its ends.

Pant hook with adjustable loops or hook-adjuster.

A trouser hook with adjustable loops or a hook-regulator is used when there is a need to somehow influence the volume of the body that changes several times during the day.

Still slim in the morning. And then, someone had a hearty lunch or dinner, and by the evening the figure also hunched over under the weight of problems and stresses, and the body was swollen, in addition to everything.Here’s a volume-adjusting hook that will come in handy.

This is also a sewing hook. The hook itself, from a pair, a hook-regulator, is sewn in the same way as a sewn-on hook with eyes (see above in the article). But his partner, a loop, is attached to the product, by sewing, in rows of parallel stitches, oblong eyes along its edges.

But before you sew on a loop from this pair, you need to correctly determine the place of its “registration”. This is done in the same way as with the loop described above, but you need to focus on the first loop from the hook.Its location must be adjusted to fit the hook. After all, if you place it more to the left than necessary, then it will not be able to hold the lightning, and it will be subjected to increased loads.

And if you need to tighten the waist, then another loop is “hooked on” to the hook. And a few centimeters of loosening the tightness of the clothing will not affect the zipper in any way.

Hook – button.

The installed hook-button, from the front side looks exactly like a button, and works like a full-fledged hook.

They are sold in specialized stores in packs – blisters, a set designed for about one product and with a special tool for their installation. Or separately, individually and without tools.

Even without a special tool, you can try to install this type of hook yourself, using a simple set of tools that are sure to be in every home.

And you can not risk it and give such a hook-button to the installation, to a specialized atelier-workshop.

Punching punch hook on thorns.

Very often sewing enthusiasts ask themselves the question: “How to sew a trouser hook on the thorns correctly?” I have a short and comprehensive answer to this question. No way !!! To sew it just n-e-o-o-o-o-o-o-o!

Unlike all previous types of trouser hooks, this type is attached to the product in a completely different way, in a fundamentally different way. Holes are nailed in the material with the tips of the thorns, and then the thorns are bent onto decorative overlays.

Punch hooks on thorns may differ from each other in design, number of thorns. There can be 2, 3, or 4.

But all sets, punching trouser hooks on thorns, consist of four parts.

  1. hook;
  2. hinge;
  3. Crochet hook;
  4. decorative strip for the hinge.

Actually, if “in the right way”, then the trouser hook on the thorns is installed on the trousers, until the end of the execution of the belt on them.The location of the hook and loop is determined, and overlays are installed inside the belt.

so that later, on the finished product, the hook and loop are inside and they are not visible from the front side.

But setting a hook with thorns like this is such a tedious business that requires calculations, accuracy. And if there is a mistake? And the holes have already been punctured!

Look at the decorative trims for the hook and loop.After all, they are so neat and very pretty. So why not install the hook on the thorns so that the hook cover is visible from the front side of the product. This hook-on-tenon setup does not require difficult calculations.

Of course, it will be best if the hook with spikes starts to be installed by a specialist in this business, from an atelier or a sewing workshop, and who is also the proud owner of a press with a set of special attachments – punches, for this business.

But even at home, you can try to install such a hook.It is very easy to install. The most difficult thing is to neatly bend the thorns with household tools.

And a pant hook is placed on the thorns, on the product, as well as all other types of hooks described above. First, the hook itself is placed on one side of the fastener, and then, on the other side, the loop is “adjusted” to it.

As you can see, on the front side of the product, these hooks look quite presentable.And if you are not afraid to break established traditions and experiment, then punching hooks on thorns, like hook-buttons, can already be put on public display.

You can get acquainted with fur coat hooks and learn how to sew them correctly in the next article.

All the best! Best regards, Milla Sidelnikova!


How to sew a hook to a fur coat?

Hello, dear readers of the blog milla-sidelnikova.com!

In the previous articles we got acquainted with hooks, ordinary sewing and trouser. But there are also fur coat hooks. And today we will talk about them.

Sew-on hooks, with loops, covered with thread or braided.

Sew-on hooks, with loops, covered with thread or braided, just like the most common metal sew-on hooks with loops, familiar, traditional for all shapes, but only very large and covered or, if you want, beautifully and neatly braided, synthetic thread.Brown, black, gray, beige, white.

Use such hooks as a fastener for outerwear, from heavy and dense fabrics. These can be coats, jackets, low-pile furs, etc. Such hooks are not hidden, but, on the contrary, are put on public display, sewn in prominent places. They “serve” as a fastener and decoration.

For both overlapping and butt fasteners, sewn on, looped, covered with thread or braided, always placed horizontally.

And just like all the previous hooks with which we have already met, braided fur coat hooks, on women’s clothing there is a hook on the right, and a loop, respectively, on the left.

On products with a butt closure, the braided hooks look like this,

and on products with an overlap fastener, so.

As you can see, braided fur hooks must be sewn onto the product so that the line of engagement of the hook with the loop coincides, in either case, with the middle front line.

And the sewing technique, braided fur coat hooks, is exactly the same as for ordinary sewing hooks (see here). But they need to be sewn on extremely carefully and from the front side of the product!

Sew-on hook or clip with leather loop.

Sew-on hook or clip with a leather loop are not quite ordinary hooks. It is a connection of a metal hook-and-loop with a leather loop. And the loop, moreover, consists of two parts, a ring, which is actually a loop and a leather strip-flag, with the help of which, the loop is attached to the product.

But, despite all the external differences from other hooks familiar to us, the hook-clamp works like a normal, full-fledged hook.

These hooks-clips are produced in a fairly wide range of colors. White, cream, red, black, light and dark beige, gray, brown, etc. In general, there is plenty to choose from.

All sewn-on hooks-clips with a leather loop, from different manufacturers, look almost the same. They can differ only in the composition of the metal from which they are made and the leather strip can be made of natural or artificial leather.

And one more small but significant difference. Some clip-on hooks are sold with holes already punched in the leather strip, while others do not. If there are no holes, you need to make them yourself, for example, with an awl or a very thick needle. It will be easier to sew reinforcement stitches through them when sewing on the buttonhole.

Sew-on hook-clip with a leather loop, it is performed only on products where the edges of the fastener overlap each other, that is, with an overlapping fastener.It carries only a functional load and is not put on public display. And best of all, it “feels” on products with long pile.

There is one very significant difference in the execution of such a hook. A sew-on hook-clip with a leather loop is always placed vertically on the selection of the product!

It would seem natural to place it horizontally, like all the previous hooks. But no! Why is that?


  1. This is no ordinary hook, where the loop simply snaps onto the hook.This is a hook-and-loop clip. And place it, we, it horizontally, it will be very difficult to unbutton it.
  2. The range of movement of the hitch, between the latch and the loop, is very large. And the horizontal placement of the hook-and-latch would cause constant, distortion-displacement of the edges of the fastener down, up.
  3. Positioned vertically, the snap hook takes up more floor space, which means it stays tighter, safer and longer.

And now in great detail, consider how such a hook is sewn to the product.

I deliberately sewed on a fur coat hook in a contrasting white color so that it was better to see how this is done.

1. The snap hook must be sewn to the garment before the lining is sewn on.

2. So. As with any overlap fastener, first you need to find or determine where the middle lines are, in this case, the left and right shelves.

This line and lines of the middle of the clasp too. Exactly along these lines, vertically, on the pick-up of the right shelf there is a hook, on the left shelf there is a loop (for women’s products), we will place hooks-latches, hooks-clips.

1st, this is the line of the middle of the shelf and fastener. And the hook-clip must be sewn onto the product so that this line runs exactly in the middle of the hook (vertically).

2nd line is the line of the hook-and-loop connection. And on the left and right shelves, the hook and loop must be sewn so that the hitch line runs exactly along these places. Then, and the entire fastener will not be, neither skewed, nor crumpled the edges of the fastener. How many such fur coat hooks to place on the product depends on the model.But it must be remembered that fur coat hooks are still not buttons and there is no need to place a lot of them.

But one of them must be placed so that it is on the chest line. Held back the most prominent place.

3. Having decided on the line on which the hook will be located and with its future permanent location, now we proceed directly to sewing on the hook.

From the seamy side of the collar, the place where the fur coat hook will be placed sometimes needs to be duplicated.Look at the material. If the skin (natural or artificial) is thin, duplicate this place for reliability with a rectangular piece of calico or any other non-woven material. It can be attached to the main product with textile glue or neatly, with stitches grabbed around the perimeter.

Now we outline the places where we will make the cuts. These are two points. One, we already have it. This is the point of intersection, the vertical line, the middle line of the right shelf with the horizontal line, the line of the hook-and-loop connection.And another point must be applied at a distance of 1.3 cm from the first. This is the distance between the pieces of the hook-and-latch.

Now, at the marked places, we make two small cuts, 3-5 mm long,

and through them we “release”, on the front side of the collar, both parts of the hook-latch.

The hook, with the spout, must be directed downwards, so the nose of the hook is threaded into the upper hole.

Snap the latch hook on the front side of the collar, and from the seamy side, through all the special holes, at the base of the hook, sew it with stitches to the product.

The hook is ready!

Go to the loop.

4. Having hooked the loop-loop on the latch-hook,

we combine the previously outlined middle lines of the right and left shelves.

And on the front side of the left shelf we determine the place where the loop should stand.

Then, on the seamy side of the left shelf, we duplicate the place (if necessary) where the loop will be sewn.

Now, at the intended “intersection” we make a cut, wide so that a leather strip fits tightly into it, and we fix it in this place with stitches, in a place with the edges of the cut

and through the holes made on this strip, to the main part.

The buttonhole is sewn with the flag strip facing up.

That’s it!

And if you came to my site in search of information “How to sew, repair a fur coat hook?” recipe “how it’s done. The only thing that you will have to do additionally is the lining, in the places where the new hook will be repaired or placed, first fasten it, and then, replacing the hook, sew it up again.

Goodbye to everyone! See you in the next articles! Best regards, Milla Sidelnikova!


The hooks on the fur coat are unfastened – what to do?

Many owners of warm fur products believe that any work on the repair of a fur coat should be carried out only by professional craftsmen. However, it also happens: the hooks on the fur coat are unfastened – what to do? The task is not the most difficult, and you can cope with it on your own. In order to fix a hook on a fur coat, it is not at all necessary to spend time on a trip to the workshop – it is enough to perform a few simple manipulations.Today we will tell you how to carefully and efficiently put everything in order so as not to spoil an expensive item.

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Preparing for repair

In the event of a broken hook on a fur garment, repair or complete replacement of the part will have to be done. Replacing the hook does not require special knowledge and skills, however, you need to be able to sew at least a little in order to do the job accurately and accurately.


For work you need the following tools:

  • Furrier or sharp office knife.Small scissors with pointed ends (for example, manicure scissors) can also be used, but they require experience and dexterity to work with them.
  • Needle and thread (as strong as possible). For manual sewing, it is best to use a special triangular needle designed for sewing leather.
  • Medium hooks. A piece that is too massive will be inappropriate, and very small hooks can easily break or undo.
  • Stretch fabric flap.
  • When sewing, select a thin, strong and long needle to prevent damage to the flesh during piercing.
  • If you do not have too thick threads, use regular thread, folding it several times.
  • Choose the most suitable color for threads and crochet hooks, even if they are almost invisible. The clasp shouldn’t stand out too much.
  • When buying new hooks, pay attention to how they fasten. Keep in mind that in frosty weather the fingers sometimes do not obey, and it will be quite difficult to cope with the hook, which is fastened too hard and tight.
  • After completing the repair, it is necessary to restore the position of the pile.To do this, use a natural bristle brush (not very hard) or, as a last resort, a pet brush.

Important! Before repairing tangled areas of fur, soak it in warm water and glycerin.

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Which fasteners are better for a fur coat?

For fastening fur products use:

  • Hook with a special ring. The fastening system can be of two types: with fastening and movable element.There is also the simplest type of hook – fixed. Products are made of metal and plastic.

Important! Plastic fasteners are inferior in strength to metal counterparts, therefore, if possible, use metal fittings, especially if you are the owner of a heavy fur coat on the floor. Plastic crochet hooks may work well for a fur vest or a short, light coat.

  • Decorative fasteners in the form of clips and decorative hooks. Decorative elements are an additional decoration for a fur product.Most often, such accessories are used for short-nap fur coats so that decorative elements are visible.

Important! Buttons can also be used.

  • If you have to use public transport very often, use the fastening hooks so that the fur coat does not unfasten under the onslaught of the crowd. Most often, such incidents happen with models that are flared to the bottom.
  • The most common option is a simple metal hook with a movable tongue.These hooks are suitable for both short and long fur coat models, regardless of the length of the pile. This type of fastener is considered reliable and looks original.
  • If you want to use a decorative hook on your outerwear, don’t overdo it. There should only be one such accessory. It is best to sew it on the collar so that the accessory acts as a brooch and at the same time secures the hood.

Important! Shiny accessories with stones look most impressive on plain clothes.A large size of decorative jewelry is allowed, the main thing is that the accessory matches the model of the fur product.

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How to fix a hook on a fur coat without replacing it?

If hooks are not held on the fur garment, this may be due to the following reasons:

  • The fittings are loose during operation. If the mechanism is broken, try to slightly clamp it using ordinary small pliers. Do this as carefully as possible so as not to break the part.
  • The threads are partially broken. Re-sew the crochet hook, replacing old threads with new ones, or sew additional stitches to secure the fastener.
  • Incorrect fitting size. Hooks that are too small cannot hold the material well. Replace incorrectly fitted fittings.
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How to sew a hook to a fur coat?

To sew accessories and solve the problem, the hooks on the fur coat are unfastened – what to do, you must first of all determine its location.If you want to fasten a hood or collar with a hook, then you need to clearly understand that a scarf is usually put under the collar, and the hood must be fastened so that it does not fly off. Therefore, very carefully determine the location of the future hook – it is best to take measurements, after putting on a scarf.

Important! One more point must be remembered before sewing on the accessories: all fasteners are made on the lining without touching the main skin. For example, the inside of the hook should be hidden under the lining.


When replacing an old broken part with a new one, you must first remove the old fastener by doing some operations:

  • rip up the seam on the lining to get to the hook;
  • If the lining is not sewn on, then turn the fur coat inside out and find the desired element.

Important! Some craftsmen unpick the seam on the lining from the sleeve to remove the old fastener hidden behind the flesh.

We repair the hooks

In order to install the hook yourself, strictly observe the following recommendations and follow this process step by step:

  • If there was no other hardware in place of the fastener, then make a small incision in order to remove the required part of the hook.If you are replacing old accessories with a new one, then sew up the place of the old fastener (except for the slot for the new hook) and strengthen with glue cloth or a piece of leather. First, on the leather material, make a slot for a new fastener.
  • Sew a hook on the inside of the lining. Typically, the base of the hook has several holes. So that the fastener “sits” firmly on the flesh and does not tear it, sew all the holes to evenly distribute the load.
  • Sew up all puffed areas of the backing, layer by layer.Make new seams as carefully as possible. Try to keep most of the threads on the inside. Sew the last lining to the fur rim with a blind stitch.

Important! Do not pull on the thread too much while sewing, as the flesh may break.

  • If you need to sew on a ring for a hook, first take careful measurements so that the fittings are flush. The ring can be sewn to the lining by securing it in two places with strong threads. A more reliable option is to rip up the lining in the right place, thread the ring through the two holes made and sew it on the inside of the lining, just as in the case of the crochet hook.
  • To avoid stretching or tearing the flesh, reinforce the fastener with a thick piece of cloth, leather material, or an adhesive cloth. Sew on the patch by hand, leaving a hole for the hook.
  • If the fur is thin, then secure the ring with a strip of leather.
  • Buy only high-quality hooks so as not to change them often, since a fur coat is a very expensive item and you should not regularly rip the lining.
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Replacing hooks with buttons

Many owners of fur products believe that hooks often fail, and replacing them requires painstaking work, so it is better to replace them with buttons. We hasten to dissuade you, making such a replacement is not at all easy. The main difficulty lies in the design of the loop. In order to make a loop, it is necessary to have the appropriate technique that will help to process the edges so that the pile does not crumble at the cuts.

If you nevertheless decide to change the hooks to buttons, then listen to the following recommendations:

  • Make the loops inside. They are easier to arrange. Proceed as follows: in the place where the ring for the hook was sewn, form a loop of thick threads. You can also use a tight elastic band, but you will have to change it periodically, as it will stretch over time.
  • To replace the crochet with a button, first remove the old hardware and sew up the holes left by the removed hardware with light stitches.From the inside, place adhesive tape over the place where the hook was and install the desired part.

As you can see, it is not difficult to sew on the ring and hook. Follow our advice and recommendations, do the work carefully so as not to damage the fur product. If you doubt your abilities or you feel sorry for repairing a very expensive thing yourself, then contact a specialized workshop, where the masters will carefully solve all the problems. Wear your fur coat with pleasure!


How to choose wall hooks for clothes in the hallway

Everyone who is thinking about arranging a hallway should think about how to arrange a space for storing outerwear and accessories. For this purpose, wall hooks for clothes in the hallway, which have become popular and have a lot of advantages, are perfect. It is important to choose the right shape, size and style of hooks so that they are the perfect complement to your interior.

Wall hooks for clothes in a stylized image of the city.

Benefits of using hooks

Wall hanger with hooks and clothes holders.

Clothes hooks become an irreplaceable element of the interior. The popularity of these accessories is associated with its undoubted advantages:

  • Low price. Even the most stylish and sophisticated set of hallway hooks costs less than a wardrobe;
  • Compactness. Not every hallway can accommodate a lot of bulky furniture. Hooks are a suitable solution for miniature rooms;
  • Functionality.Strong hooks, combined with high-quality installation on the wall, can easily withstand even heavy outerwear, and many miniature elements will serve to store umbrellas and keys;
  • Quick installation. There are no difficulties with fastening. This advantage is used if there is a need to expand the space for clothes: you do not need to buy an additional wardrobe, it is enough to place a couple of new hooks;
  • Large selection. On the shelves there is a huge variety of hooks for clothes of all possible sizes and shapes.Each person will find the ideal products that will optimally fit into the design of the corridor and will meet all the requirements.

Colored vertical clothes hangers.

Which hooks are better to choose

Wooden hanger for hats.

It is important to choose the right furniture hooks for your specific needs. Then they will last a long time, will be convenient to use and will not cause trouble.

Wooden wall-mounted clothes rack in the hallway.

As mentioned above, hooks are very diverse and differ:

  • By size;
  • According to the material from which they are made;
  • By type of attachment;
  • By style.

An elegant forged hanger for things and clothes in the hallway.

Bright hallway interior with clothes hanger.

It’s easy to figure out the size. Choose large, sturdy items for outerwear and bags. And for various small things, such as umbrellas, keys, shovels, hats – miniature items are suitable.We will get to know the rest of the parameters in more detail later.

What hooks are made of

Hanger with hooks in the form of lizards.

The material depends on how strong, reliable, comfortable, budget-friendly they will be, and, of course, the appearance of the fittings depends.

Most often plastic, wood and metal hooks are produced. Of course, the choice is not limited to these three materials, because there are still a variety of design elements from glass, wire and many others.But let us dwell in detail only on the named three, since they are the most optimal and popular.

Longitudinal wooden hanger with metal hooks for clothes.

  • Plastic. This is the cheapest option. Easily attached to the surface, usually a simple double-sided tape is enough. However, plastic hooks are not suitable for heavy outerwear, but they will be an excellent solution for storing household items;
  • Metal. Strong, reliable and durable material.Metal hooks are capable of withstanding significant loads. However, the disadvantage of metal fittings is its fastening. Metal products are attached to self-tapping screws, for which you will have to drill the wall, and this is no longer so convenient;
  • Wood. Wooden hooks, like metal ones, are capable of withstanding heavy objects, but are much easier to install. Such products look stylish, but not suitable for every interior.

Minimalist wall hanger.

Types of fasteners

Hanger with shoe rack in the same style.

The choice of mounting depends on three factors:

  • Material from which the element is made;
  • Weight of hook and intended load;
  • Surface to which the hook will be attached. Most often they are placed either directly on the wall or a panel with hooks is hung.

Wall hanger for outerwear in the hallway.

Small hooks are the easiest to attach. They come with suction cups that are attached to a flat glass, ceramic or plastic surface in one motion and can be removed just as easily without leaving any marks.Hooks are also made, on the back surface of which double-sided tape has already been applied. It is enough to peel off the protective film and attach the hook to the wall. In addition to the listed options, it is also possible to attach it to a special glue. However, being content with such fasteners, it is worth understanding that the hooks will only withstand a very small weight, and during operation, you may have to glue, fix the products, because such fasteners are not strong enough.

Vertical wooden clothes hanger with hooks.

For a more reliable result, use fasteners with nails or screws. The latter method is considered the most durable and durable.

Hooks for hallways of different styles

Metal hanger with a shelf for hats.

For a home to be truly cozy and pleasant to be, it is necessary that all interior details are in harmony with each other. And don’t forget about little things like hooks. These elements must necessarily fit into the style in which the hallway is made.Therefore, we will further analyze the most popular design styles and tell you which hooks are suitable for each of them.

Art Deco

Art Deco style in details, wall hooks for clothes.

The Art Deco style in the interior is distinguished by luxury and high aesthetics. Suitable hooks for this style are available in chrome, pearl, gold, silver, black and white. Shiny and sleek options with a strict geometric shape are ideal.


High-tech decorative wall hangers.

Hi-tech style reminds us that we live in the age of high technologies. For this style, fittings are suitable for soft, cold shades, in the minimum required amount, with the correct geometric features, metal is most often used.


Wall hooks in the hallway under the loft style.

Simple products made of wood or aged metal, as well as unusual hooks in the form of water pipes, old nails, wrenches, are well suited for this industrial-urban style.


Ideas for the design of crochet hooks for the interior in the style of minimalism.

The name of this style speaks for itself: a minimum of elements, a minimum of details, a minimum of decor, small dimensions.

Site Selection

Wall hanger with additional mirror and shelf for small items.

Hooks are placed on the wall, on the door or on a special strip. In order to correctly choose the height at which the products will be located, it is necessary to analyze the growth of all family members so that everyone can use them comfortably.For children, hooks are attached below, and various small things are also broadcast on them. Hooks can be arranged in a single row, staggered, diagonally and in various other variations.

A small metal hanger for the hallway.

Thus, wall hooks for clothes in the hallway, with their budget and ease of fastening, help to significantly save space, being an indispensable element for storing outerwear, accessories, keys and various other things.

Video: Wall hooks for clothes in the hallway

Photo gallery: Types and examples of wall hooks

Modeling a bustier.How to manually sew on hooks on a clasp in a woman’s bustier.

Modeling a bustier. How to manually sew on hooks on a clasp in a woman’s bustier.
admin 2013-11-07 at 6:33 pm

Greetings, dear reader, and today we will talk a little about how easy it is to simulate several bustier models based on a basic jumpsuit pattern.

And at the end of the article in the video tutorial, see how neatly and without such a jamb as the protruding ends of the rubber bands, process the front fastener and sew the hooks by hand. You can also use ready-made hook-and-loop tape. But after all, as always, in our stores there are no matching colors, and the distance between the hooks in the finished braid is too large and not suitable for all models.

I have a scheme for constructing combidres in this article. Before you delve into the process, I will tell you a few words about why a linen product is easily modeled in this way.

Firstly, the base of the combedres is built without any additions to the freedom of fit. And in this pattern, all that remains is to simulate the location of the cups, transfer the darts, and determine the length. As, for example, in the bustier, the image of which you see below.

Such a bustier can be sewn both from elastic lace and from simple lace.

So, modeling a bustier up to the waist line.

The cups are modeled with a horizontal seam.

In the photo there is a strapless bustier, but there will be no good support for sizes over 46 in such a bustier.For better support, it is better to sew on straps or insert metal bones into the reliefs.

Pay attention to the bottom of the bustier – it is finished with a wide elastic band. The upper cut of the back of the bustier is also processed with the same elastic band, the line of this cut goes obliquely from the cup down to the waist elastic band on the back. If you are on the site for the first time, you can download my free book “We Sew Lingerie”.

The side insert is cut out as one piece, without a side seam and can be cut out of an elastic mesh.Such a mesh can be used to duplicate lace details if the lace is thin or does not hold its shape well.

Modeling a bandage bustier.

Another simple bustier can also be modeled on the basis of the bodysuit pattern. This bustier can be worn with different bras and the purpose of such a thing is to provide additional support for ladies with curvaceous forms or when playing sports.

It is very simple to sew. It is cut out as one piece, without seams and trimmed along all the cuts with a linen elastic band.

Attention! You can learn all the subtleties of processing elastic bands, stitching in different types of cups, simple and very effective techniques for modeling soft and dense cups, decorating them with drapery, lace, as well as the secrets of processing linen seams by ordering my course “All this should be sewn. Corset underwear of a bra group “. By the way, 7 different models of bras are sewn there. You received the coupon in the letter. You don’t have to go back to your mail, here is the coupon: <1KHL2>.The discount is valid only until 11/12/13.

For modeling, carry out a few simple manipulations with the pattern of the same combedres:

  • 1 Draw a line at the base of the bust and step down 3-4 cm. This will be the bottom line of the bustier.
  • 2 On the backrest, move the center of the backrest towards the side by an amount equal to the gap of the dart. Thus, we eliminate the waist dart of the back – we do not need it in the bustier.
  • 3 From the side-height, from the armhole, draw a curved line that extends to where the strap is attached to the back. Backrest width at the narrowest point is from 6 to 9 cm.
  • 4 Sprout – arrange the neck of the back in accordance with the picture below
  • 5 on the shelf is even easier – you don’t need to model the cups. Simply draw a curved line that runs from the top of the straps to the most prominent point of the chest around at a distance from the center of the chest, approximately half the distance from the center of the chest to the base of the chest.
  • 6 in the center of the front, make out a straight bustier belt with a buckle.

Another bustier with closure on the front details:

And another gorgeous bustier:

Girls, for those who have already purchased a disc for sewing underwear, it will not be difficult to sew such a bustier. You can sew in the cups in the same way as in the bustier lesson. The processing of the wings is exactly the same. The top and bottom of the bustier are processed in our way, the same lesson on the bustier. The only difference is that trimming lace is additionally sewn onto the back and side details of the bustier belt.The belt itself is modeled according to the drawing below.

And for those who are on the site for the first time, take a look at the lesson on processing a bra with a bridge between the cups.

At the end there are two videos on fastening and on processing a bra with lace ruffles.

Materials for sewing such a bustier will require the following:

  • 1 Elastic lace with a figured scalloped edge for decoration of the upper side part and for inserts on the bottom of the front part of the bustier 13-15 cm wide – about 85-90 cm.
  • 2 Lace for the front central part of the bustier belt 14-15 cm wide – about 120 cm. Decorative embroidery runs along the edge of this lace. Such lace may not be elastic – in order for the front piece to keep its shape better. It can even be lace based on organza
  • 3 Cup lace – about 30 cm.
  • 4 elastic mesh for side panels, for backrest and for front center panel.
  • 5 Elastic band for straps and for processing the bottom and top of the bustier – about 260 cm.
  • 6 Adjusters, strap rings, matched to size and color.
  • 7 Plastic bones for the side seams of the bustier – pair. Metal bones for front curved reliefs are perfect because they bend in two planes and will fit well and keep their shape. But the bones do not need to be inserted at all. It all depends on the purpose of the bustier. The bones are sewn in just for decorative purposes. Such a bustier will not give a tightening – this is not a corset.
  • 8 Last but not least, a pair of solid, pre-made cups in your size with underwire.

A few tips for finishing the center piece of the bustier:

This detail is double – under the lace there is an elastic mesh, on which our beautiful lace is sewn with embroidered edges, which are superimposed end-to-end to each other. On the lace, lay stitches that go straight along the embroidery close to the edge and sew our lace to the base. As close as the embroidery allows.

I do not recommend trimming this part around the perimeter, as the stitching can pull and deform the edges.Better to pin or sew. And then you already process the central part as a whole.

Now take a break from reading and see a good example of processing a bustier fastener: if you don’t want to miss the new video tutorials on sewing lingerie and other clothes, subscribe to blog updates.

And one more video from the video course

“All this should be sewn. Corset underwear for bra group “

for decorating a bra with ruffles:

And that’s all for today.Take action and submit your work.

Ask questions in the comments, to questions sent to the mail,

there is no way to answer personally to everyone, I hope for your understanding. Bye Bye. Elena Fomenkova.

All blog articles.

How to sew a bustier. We process the drawstrings for the bones.

How to sew a bra with a long belt.

How to sew women’s maxi panties with a tightening effect in the abdomen

How to sew a bra master class

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