Fountain pen nib adjustment: Smoothing Scratchy Nibs | Nibs

Smoothing Scratchy Nibs | Nibs

If a person enjoys writing with a fountain pen, it is probably for several reasons. High on the list is the feel of pen on paper, as it glides effortlessly across the surface. Writing with a scratchy nib, on the other hand, is a less than pleasing activity. Anyone who uses fountain pens regularly has had this other experience. Though we offer our own repair services, as well as complimentary nib tuning on any pen or nib unit purchased from us, I have often been asked if there is anything that can be done at home to cure a scratchy nib. The answer is potentially yes, but I am concerned that the cure sometimes creates more problems than it solves. The following discussion is based on the steps that I take to troubleshoot a scratchy writing pen.


This nib is sprung up on the
left tine.

If a nib that previously wrote smoothly has suddenly turned scratchy, it has probably suffered some sort of trauma. The most common being misalignment.

If bumped or dropped one of the tines can move in relation with the other. This is the first thing to look for. Misalignment puts one tip ahead of the other on the paper, exposing a sharp inner margin of the tipping to the paper. It also can play havoc with consistent ink flow. In order to see the out-of-alignment tipping, a ten-power loupe is necessary for those of us with mortal eyes. The following procedure is only for the brave, who realize that the pen might end up in other hands for the problem to be solved.

Or it is for a pen that is a “trainer pen” not necessarily a “writer”.


By pushing up on the right tine

and the left in succession, we see
if the tipping is balanced.

Hold the loupe close to your eye while pointing the tip of the pen toward the loupe. This all occurs within a few inches of your face. Look for a close symmetrical arrangement of the tipping, with both tips at the same level and little or no space between the “iridium” shapes. (A very firm nib will have a very small gap, where a flexible nib will be touching.) If you see one side more than 5% above the other, test the tips by gently moving the low side up with your fingernail. If it moves up an equal 5% amount above the first side, try the other side to see if it moves up again to its original position. If this is what occurs and the tines are of the firm kind, you have a well-balanced nib.

If one side is well above of the other and always averages there, you have isolated the likely reason for scratchiness. 


This is a well balanced nib

OK, if this is the case, look to see if the nib is centered on the feed. If it is pushed off to one side, the cure could be simple. Gently push the nib back to center on the feed. Push from the middle of the curve of the tine, not from the shoulder and not from the tip. If you have gone too far, gently push again from the other side, this time taking care to move the nib only a small amount. Repeat this process until the slit lines up with the center of the feed.

(There are some nibs and feeds that write best when they are not lined up, but that discussion is for another time.)

Always, the test of a well-adjusted nib is on paper and with ink. The ink acts as a lubricant and the paper offers resistance.

If the nib still feels scratch, it may have sharp corners or edges that are catching on paper. At this point, I like to draw big circles and ask myself where on the circle the scratch is the most pronounced. I put an arrow to show the direction of the circle and, using pencil, mark the part of the arc where the scratch occurs. Then, returning to the loupe or to a microscope if you have one, look for that leading edge. It is most likely on the inner margin, where the slit meets the writing surface.

Now comes the tricky part. You will need some Micromesh 10,000. It comes as 3″ by 6″ sheets of abrasive on a rubberized fabric backing. I like it, rather than a hard surface abrasive, such as an Arkansas stone or Mylar disks, because it gives, sinking under the weight of the tipping. I like to put the Micromesh on a small stack of newspaper, to add to the cushion and the sinking effect. With ink in the pen, move it on the Micromesh two or three times in the direction of the scratch. Return the nib to the paper and draw that circle again. If you have caught the sharp edge or corner against the abrasive, it should have gone away. Repeat the process taking care to observe the effect of the smoothing with your ten-power loupe.

Warning: Micromesh, even though it leaves a polished surface, is extremely aggressive. Overusing it can remove the tipping material from the end of the nib. This smoothing process can yield the exact opposite from the intended result. It can create a flat foot on the tip, making sharp edges in all directions.

Because another person does often not like one person’s tastes in the tip of a pen, the process of smoothing is more art than science. Below is a list of attributes that various tips may contain which will appear positive in one light and negative in another. Understanding these parameters will help the writer in choosing their own compromises.

1. Extra-fine point. Because it is capable of very small marks it is capable of making notes in margins. Currently there are several kinds of throwaway pens that make extremely fine marks and they are not difficult to use. These pens operate in a different way from fountain pens and may be the best solution for some writing situations. But we all know our own reasons for choosing to write with these instruments. Preferred by most of our grandparents, the extra-fine point can be very legible. But, if used with all but the lightest touch, the extra-fine point will have excessive “tooth” and be experienced as scratchy.


This factory Pelikan M800 BB nib
suffers from a couple problems.
First, the tipping is not perfectly
aligned and second, notice that

the place where the ink would
touch the paper is concave and
would not touch.

2. Round inner-margins. Many pens tips today are sold with rounded inner margins. This is roundness at the place where the slit meets the paper. Manufacturers do this to insure smoothness. However, skipping can result. If ink does not reach the paper when the tip touches, the writing can be frustrated with skipping, especially on the initial stroke. Some work with Micromesh can “break in” the tip so that it does not skip. By removing some material from the tip, the slit is brought closer to the writing surface, making the intimate contact between ink and paper possible. (But, see warning above.)


A scratchy flat-footed tip

3. Creating a foot. The foot will act as a plane under which the ink will flow. When working with a light pressure, on the right paper and at the right angle, the nib will hydroplane. This effect can happen for one person and not for another. It also can be elusive. The “flat” necessary for this effect, if it has sharp edges can catch and drag. A tip with a foot can be heaven or hell.


Side view of a flat-footed nib

4. High-angle foot or low-angle foot. Nibs are created and pens are sold with the average writer in mind. Because the smoothest point will have a rounded but flat “foot” at the angle where the writer tip touches the paper, each person’s foot is slightly different. Most people write holding the pen at about 55 degrees above the paper. Those who prefer a higher angle or lower angle may find that the way the tip is cut is not good for them. Again, using smoothing cloth, a new foot can be customized at home, which feels right for the writer. (See warning above.)

5. Wet nibs write smoothly. All things being equal, a wet writing nib will feel smoother than a dry one because the ink acts as a lubricant and the more ink under the tip the smoother the pen will feel. A pen that delivers too much ink can be a nuisance, leaving a wet mark that takes a long time to dry and bleeding into the paper.

The bleeding reduces legibility and can be less than attractive. A simple adjustment can be used to increase the ink flow of a nib. Decreasing is more difficult, so beware of overdoing this adjustment. This adjustment is not for the faint of heart, as the nib can easily be made to write more scratchily if the tines do not balance. (See paragraph 2 at the top of this article.)


Increasing ink flow

Increase the ink flow: Holding the pen on a large open desk with the nib pointed upright, and looking at the underside of the nib (the feed), catch each shoulder of the nib with your thumbnails. Pull gently apart while pressing down gently on the top of the nib. It is best to have light coming through from the back so that one can see the slit gap open. Proceed with caution, testing the pen after each effort. Because the nib will need to be tested after each try, you will want to have paper towels at the ready and not be headed for a dinner engagement, as you will most likely get ink on your fingers.

Decreasing the ink flow is more difficult, as the nib may have to be removed from the pen. Some minor decrease of the ink flow can be accomplished by pinching the shoulders together evenly.

As may be noted from the above, a smooth nib is the result of several dynamics. The process of balancing a nib requires skill and patience. The rewards are great, but pitfalls abound.

A version of this article was first published in the PENnant magazine in February, 2006.
The PENnant is the magazine of Pen Collectors of America.

Basic Fountain Pen Nib Adjustment 101

When you buy a custom fountain pen, you can usually expect that the nib has been tested and adjusted to work reasonably well right out of the box.  However, this is certainly not the case with many, if not most brand name pens (unless you buy from a proprietor that offers such service).  It is not uncommon to find oneself a bit disappointed with a nib on a brand new pen, as it is a bit ‘scratchy’ or perhaps too dry or too wet.   To make matters worse, even a nib that is working beautifully can change – get clogged up, go out of alignment from poor use or twisting a nib unit, etc.

For this reason I believe it is a very useful thing for all fountain pen aficionados to make themselves familiar with the basics of cleaning, adjusting/tuning and smoothing of nibs.  With a basic skill set, you can fairly easily turn most ‘lemons’ that you avoid using into star pens that are always in your rotation.

NB:  As you read this (assuming of course, that you do), bear in mind that I am writing on what I have found works very well for me, and that as there are many fountain pen users, there are many, many opinions on how things ‘ought’ to be done, and many of these opinions are as strong as they are utterly unfounded (and beware of those who tell you that a technique is terrible and will only destroy your nibs, and then proceed to offer to fix your nib for profit using a ‘special technique’ that they will not reveal :-)).  In any case, others may disagree on technique, and that’s absolutely OK.  If you hear of, or find a better way to do things, then by all means do them that way – but please share your tips with your fellow pen lovers rather than just profiting from them!

Tools you will need:


-cheap loupe/magnification system (essential!  You must be able to see the tines and tipping very well)  You can pick up a cheap loupe many places.  I got this one for under $30 at Lee Valley
 -Micromesh paper – very, very fine polishing cloth.  I use almost entirely 12,000 grit, only rarely (and only with steel nibs) will I use 8,000.  You can also get that many places, but I got these MM discs again, at LV.  I cut them into strips (like the ink stained one above)
-brown bag paper – well, that’s pretty much anywhere. The pic shows envelope paper cuz my wife threw out my brown bag paper.  See also my comment in ‘Fourth’ below about brown bag paper.
-paper to test the nib on!  Cheapo paper, good paper (useful to see how it performs on both)

First – cleaning:  I guess it’s kind of a no-brainer that old, used FPs may need some cleaning to work well, but the reality is that even brand new, high end expensive FPs may also need some cleaning in order to work well (may have debris from production or oils etc in the nib/feed assembly).

Most of the time, using a simple weak solution of room-temp water with a bit of dishsoap will do the trick.  running this solution through the nib is optimal, using either the converter, or piston, depending on the fill system.  In cartridge-only  fillers, I often use an empty old cartridge to fill with the soapy water and squeeze it through the nib assembly.  In the case of piston fillers, you will need to rinse very well with soapless water afterward to ensure all soap is out of the ink chambre (except Pelikans, whose nib units can easily be unscrewed to facilitate rinsing the ink chambre).   Regardless of the fill system, if you fill and empty the pen several times with the soapy water, then with clean water until the soap is gone, you will come out with a clean nib and feed.  In the case of old nibs in vintage pens, if this doesn’t work, you may need ultrasonic cleaning.

Second – adjusting the flow:  This is a little more delicate, and for this, you will need to use the loupe I mentioned above, or whatever other magnification system you can get your hands on.   Have a look at the tips of the tines using the loupe, make sure they are more or less reasonably aligned first (Fig.3 shows end-on view of the tipping, while Fig.4 and 5 show the ‘writing surface’ view (see below)).  We’ll detail them later.  If they are, and the pen is clean, ink it up!  Use some kleenex or TP to wick as much ink as possible out of the nib and feed, to make sure that the ink you are working with is flowing from the reservoir (cart/converter/chambre/sac, whatever), and not just residual ink in the feed from filling the nib.  This will allow you to assess the flow of ink to the nib and tipping.

Now, try writing with a medium-flow ink (any ink not known to be super-watery or super-dry) on both the cheap and the good paper.  If the flow is OK, this part is done.  If the flow is too dry, see below.  If too wet, see below.

Too dry? (see Fig.1)  Carefully use the edge of your thumbnail to gently pry one tine back, away from the feed (though not actually off the feed, only move it a mm or so) then relax.   It is important that the point of contact with your nail be a at least a couple of mm back from the tipping itself, so that you are bending the whole tine, not just the tip).  Then, do the same with the other tine.  Write a few inches of line on paper (see Fig 2 – starting at ‘1’ in the figure) to allow the tines to settle into their new positions, and have a look with the loupe (see Fig.6) .  If the tines are grossly out of alignment, adjust them as below.  If still too dry, do it gain.  If now too wet, see below.

Too wet?  (see Fig.1)  Carefully use the edge of your thumbnail to gently push one of the tines downward (against the feed by a mm or so), and relax.  As above, the point of contact with your nail is at least 2-3mm from the tip.  Then, same with the other tine.  write an inch or two of ink line to settle the tines (Fig.2 – starting at ‘1’ in the figure), then check with the loupe for approximate alignment (Fig.6).  If badly out of alignment, see below.  If OK, write a few lines of writing.   If too wet, repeat the above.  If too dry, see above. 

Third – Aligning the tips:  This of course, will require the use of magnification.  Here, you must realize that the tipping is not usually just a round ball.  It most often has a writing surface at an angle to the axis of the pen (see Fig.7).  You can see this under magnification looking at the tip of the nib when held sideways.  This is the surface that is in contact with the paper when you are writing, and is really the most important surface to assess for alignment.  The way to do this is, holding the loupe to your eye, look at the tip of the nib with the nib pointing toward your forehead, feed side up (see Fig.6).  This should allow you to see across the writing surface of the tipping, with one tine on the left, the other on the right (see Fig.4 and 5).  If they are perfectly aligned here (Fig 5), you are done.  If one surface sits higher than the other (Fig.4), you need to adjust the nib.  This you can do as described above (adjusting the flow), but with more gentle adjustments, settling the tines each time with a few inches of line on paper (Fig. 2 – but start at ‘3’ in the Figure), rechecking with the loupe each time until the two surfaces are utterly flush, making one writing surface (as in Fig.5).



Fourth – smoothing the tip:  Here’s where the micromesh comes in.  If you have found any scratchiness when writing, it is often because the tips are out of alignment.  You may be able to fix this without any smoothing at all – just follow the instructions above.  If the tips are aligned, yet the pen is still scratchy (bearing in mind that the finer the pen, the scratchier it will feel, even at its best), then you need to smooth.  This is done simply by gently writing (circles, figure eights etc) on a piece of 8,000 or 12,000 micromesh.  It should not take long (especially with gold nibs!) – a few seconds at it is usually all it takes.  Very poor steel nibs may take longer.  Try not to overdo it, as this will then leave sharp edges where the tips meet, potentially making it scratchy again (sorry, but true).  The most important surface to work on is the writing surface of the tipping, so hold the nib as though you are writing when you smooth.  However, the tipping may benefit from gentle polishing over the surfaces beyond the writing surface too.   If the nib is a special nib eg oblique, stub, etc, well… easy enough to figure out where the ‘writing surface’ is, and smooth that as described above.

* I have revised this post to remove a note about using envelope or brown paper to help smooth the nib, mostly because I just don’t bother with that – I haven’t found it to be particularly helpful, and the nib will be plenty smooth after using the micro mesh, which is much better material.  There are some who have made the rather silly claim that doing circles or figure-eights on brown paper can ‘destroy a nib’.  This is of course, ludicrous.  The worst that it could do it maybe catch some fibre in the nib tip, which is quite easy to remove.   Actually, the ones who have made such claims also say such things as “you should never do your own nib work, as you will destroy the nib.  Send it to me instead, and I will fix it for a price, but I won’t tell you how to do it”.  Not particularly helpful, to be sure…

NOW – do some writing!  – That covers the very basics.  Maybe I will go into some of the special situations later (eg ‘baby bum’ on the tip, causing poor starting…)

I hope that this has been useful to some!

Ken

PS Figures done using my 1945 Parker vacumatic filled with Pilot Blue :-))

Tuning a Fountain Pen

Tuning a Fountain Pen

Peter Twydle

Tuning a Fountain Pen

by Arthur Twydle

If a pen has been laid away for a number of years, the ink will have dried out in the nib and feed. The repair of such a pen MUST involve removing the nib and thoroughly cleaning the feed and section, and then reassembling it.

Manuals show you how to do this, but most have terrifying diagrams of methylated spirit heaters and potential flaming sacrifices of your recently repaired fountain pen. However, it really is quite simple to tune a fountain pen.

Testing

The first thing you must do to tune a pen is check that the pen fills properly, and that the ink actually goes in and comes out as it should. If you have an instruction leaflet do use it, because there are variations. For example, a Vacumatic requires 7 to 12 pumps; a lever or button fill requires 10 seconds immersion in the ink; an Onoto requires a firm, brisk down stroke, as does a Sheaffer Touchdown; a Parker 61 capillary is filled upside down and so on. After filling, the capacity of the pen can be measured by counting the number of drops of ink coming out of the pen. Normally this is between 15 and 30 for an average sized lever pen, but it can be up to 50 for pens like Vacumatics or piston fillers that use the barrel as the ink reservoir.

The next step is putting pen to paper by writing with the pen. If it is OK, you needn’t go any further. A pen should write under its own weight, so you can also try the ‘free weight test’ in which you rest the pen in the crook of your thumb and first finger. As you move your hand, the pen should write under its own weight without any other pressure being exerted. If the lines are irregular and the ink doesn’t flow continuously, or is too wet with a tendency to ‘blob’, then the flow will have to be adjusted.

Adjustment

Irregular ink flow can be caused by sac problems, dirt, pressure build up, leaks or cracks in the barrel or nib and so on. However, in 95% of cases the problem is bad nib/feed adjustment, and curing the problem is simply a matter of getting this right.

Firstly – the position of the nib to the feed must be correct and this is normally attended to during reassembly of the pen. If the feed is too far into the section, the ink will not reach the nib evenly. If the feed extends too far, the ink will flow too freely and the pen will blot. the correct position is for the shoulders of the feed to be in line with the shoulders of the nib. In other words, when looking at the nib from the front, the feed should not be visible – but only just.

Secondly – for even flow of ink it is essential that the feed should lie snugly against the nib. Check this by sliding a piece of paper between the nib and the feed. If the paper cannot be inserted, the adjustment is probably correct. But if there is a gap and the paper slides behind the feed, then the gap must be reduced by resetting the feed.

Most feeds are made of hard rubber or vulcanite, which becomes very flexible in hot water and can be easily adjusted towards the nib. I normally demonstrate this to repair students by taking an old feed and dropping it in boiling water for about 15 seconds. I then take it out and bend it at right angles to show how this flexible hard rubber feed then sets quickly in its new bent form…. and that is exactly what one does when adjusting the feed to the nib.

Simply immerse the nib and feed ONLY in very hot water (just off the boil) for about 10 seconds and then gently press the feed towards the nib and hold the pressure for about 10 seconds. The gap will have been reduced and the paper test should now show the feed is snugly against the nib. If not, repeat the warming and adjustment procedure until the paper cannot be inserted. You only need a gentle pressure on the feed. You will get the hang of it very quickly.

I usually complete the student demonstration by putting the bent feed back into boiling water and let the student observe how, with heat reapplied, the feed then reverts back to its original, unbent form. This is a significant demonstration because it shows that you can adjust and readjust again and again simply by heating. The methylated spirits heater is just another way of applying heat to hard rubber feeds. The feed is moved in and out of the flames until sufficient heat has been absorbed by the feed to soften it.

TAKE CARE. Not all feeds are hard rubber. Some are plastic and distort when exposed to open flame. Hot water or steam are recommended for these.

Thirdly – having adjusted the feed to the nib, any further adjustment necessary must be made to the nib itself.

Ink flow can be regulated by adjusting the prongs of the nib. A wider gap between the prongs increases the flow, Adjustment is simply by inserting a nib spacer ( a heavy razor blade or fine penknife) in the pierce hole and moving it gently towards the tip. This will increase the gap and consequently the ink flow.

New nibs are strong, and the iridium tip welded firmly in place. But older nibs are often brittle, and care must be taken not to break of the iridium. Have a good look at the tip with an eyeglass first and, if there is any risk, start from the pierce hole but stop short of the tip.

If the pen writes too wet, you will need to adjust the spacing in the slit, and the best, permanent way of doing this is to remove the nib and adjust the gap by flexing the prongs over each other (like crossing your legs) until the gap is narrowed all the way along the slit.

To carry out a slight adjustment without removing the nib – hold the pen in your right hand. Rest the side of one prong on a sharp, firm edge of your work bench. With your left thumb catch the upper prong and press over and down. This will cross the upper prong over the lower, and when you examine the pen point you will find the slit spacing has been partially decreased. Move the pen to your left hand and rotate the pen so that the other prong is laid on the bench edge, and repeat with your right thumb to cross the opposite prong.

Once the nib has been properly spaced this should correct the ink flow, but inspect the prongs to ensure they are perfectly in line at the writing surface. If they are not, the pen will not write smoothly so further adjustment may be required.

Fourthly – further roughness or scratchiness on old pens is normally attributed to the iridium pellet being worn flat. This can be improved by the use of rouge paper 0000 grade. Smooth the nib by drawing some figure eights on the dry paper with light pressure, rolling the pen between the thumb and finger at the same time taking off the hard edges of the flat. Heavy, or any adjustment to NEW nibs is not recommended.

If there is any roughness or scratching or the owner has a peculiar way of holding/twisting his pen at an angle or exerting pressure, then the nib may have to be smoothed. This is best done by the owner himself, holding the pen in his writing position and simply drawing figure eights on abrasive paper (grade 1000) followed by rouge paper. The improvement by such a simple process amazes most students.

Finally, you must appreciate that there is a difference between the more rigid modern nibs and the older flexible nibs.

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Why Fountain Pens Skip & How To Fix

A:

Skipping is when a fountain pen writes with missing or partial stokes. This occurs when the feed cannot supply enough ink to the tip of the nib or if the tines on the nib are misaligned. The first problem is an easier fix while a misaligned nib is best left to an experienced pen tech to repair.
  1. First try cleaning the fountain pen by soaking it and then flushing it with water. Most often a good cleaning of the fountain pen will remedy the problem. A fountain pen can skip if there is debris in the feed channel or the ink has dried. Some new pens may have left over debris from manufacturing and it never hurts to flush the pen before its first use. For pens with dried fountain pen ink you may try using a pen flush to clean it well.

    If you have cleaned the pen and it continues to skip you may try a thinner ink such as the Sheaffer Skrip ink or Sailor Jentle ink that is self lubricating to see if that helps.

    Remember, fountain pen ink dries when it comes in contact with air. Make sure you cap your pen when it is not in use. When a pen is left uncapped ink can dry within the feed and create clogging, skipping and other writing issues.


  2. Another trick is to add just a touch of pen flush to the ink in your pen. This may alter the color slightly but it creates a thinner solution that flows easier through your pen. It can also help clean the pen as you use it.

  3. If you have cleaned the pen and tried different inks and you continue to have problems it may be the nib alignment. Before making adjustments to the nib beware that it may void the warranty and we do not recommend these adjustments for everyone especially for expensive pens.

  4. The first nib alignment to check is whether the tines are too close. You can either run a brass shim between the tines or even some paper. This will help spread the tines. Another option is to press the nib against your thumbnail or paper with light force to spread the tines. You must be very careful not to spring the nib using too much force.
  5. Next, check that the tines are not separated from the feed at the front. You can easily look at the nib from the side and see if there is any light gap. Gently bend the nib back into place. It may be easiest to run the back of the nib along the edge of a desk being careful not to put too much force on the front tip of the nib as you may bend it too far.

  6. Check that the tines are aligned correctly. A quick test is to draw angled or diagonal lines in four different directions to see if there is more drag one direction than another. Remember upward strokes are not typically as smooth as downward. You may feel more drag from left to right for example. If this is the case then one tine is lower than the other. You can try to align them by bending the tines into place.

  7. The last cause of dry fountain pens can be baby’s bottom. This happens when there is too much tipping on the nib creating rounded tines that separate. The can be fixed by lightly sanding the nib using very fine mylar paper or micromesh.

Hope this helps answer your questions on how to fix a fountain pen that skips.

Feed Adjustment for a Fountain Pen

(img:10150320566275951)Irregular ink flow can be caused by sac problems, dirt, pressure build up, leaks or cracks in the barrel or nib and so on. However, in 95% of cases the problem is bad nib/feed adjustment, and curing the problem is simply a matter of getting this right.

Firstly – the position of the nib to the feed must be correct and this is normally attended to during reassembly of the pen. If the feed is too far into the section, the ink will not reach the nib evenly. If the feed extends too far, the ink will flow too freely and the pen will blot. the correct position is for the shoulders of the feed to be in line with the shoulders of the nib. In other words, when looking at the nib from the front, the feed should not be visible – but only just. 

Secondly – for even flow of ink it is essential that the feed should lie snugly against the nib. Check this by sliding a piece of paper between the nib and the feed. If the paper cannot be inserted, the adjustment is probably correct. But if there is a gap and the paper slides behind the feed, then the gap must be reduced by resetting the feed.

Most feeds are made of hard rubber or vulcanite, which becomes very flexible in hot water and can be easily adjusted towards the nib. I normally demonstrate this to repair students by taking an old feed and dropping it in boiling water for about 15 seconds. I then take it out and bend it at right angles to show how this flexible hard rubber feed then sets quickly in its new bent form…. and that is exactly what one does when adjusting the feed to the nib.

Simply immerse the nib and feed ONLY in very hot water (just off the boil) for about 10 seconds and then gently press the feed towards the nib and hold the pressure for about 10 seconds. The gap will have been reduced and the paper test should now show the feed is snugly against the nib. If not, repeat the warming and adjustment procedure until the paper cannot be inserted. You only need a gentle pressure on the feed. You will get the hang of it very quickly.

I usually complete the student demonstration by putting the bent feed back into boiling water and let the student observe how, with heat reapplied, the feed then reverts back to its original, unbent form. This is a significant demonstration because it shows that you can adjust and readjust again and again simply by heating. The methylated spirits heater is just another way of applying heat to hard rubber feeds. The feed is moved in and out of the flames until sufficient heat has been absorbed by the feed to soften it.

TAKE CARE. Not all feeds are hard rubber. Some are plastic and distort when exposed to open flame. Hot water or steam are recommended for these.

Thirdly – having adjusted the feed to the nib, any further adjustment necessary must be made to the nib itself.

Ink flow can be regulated by adjusting the prongs of the nib. A wider gap between the prongs increases the flow, Adjustment is simply by inserting a nib spacer ( a heavy razor blade or fine penknife) in the pierce hole and moving it gently towards the tip. This will increase the gap and consequently the ink flow.

New nibs are strong, and the iridium tip welded firmly in place. But older nibs are often brittle, and care must be taken not to break of the iridium. Have a good look at the tip with an eyeglass first and, if there is any risk, start from the pierce hole but stop short of the tip.

If the pen writes too wet, you will need to adjust the spacing in the slit, and the best, permanent way of doing this is to remove the nib and adjust the gap by flexing the prongs over each other (like crossing your legs) until the gap is narrowed all the way along the slit.

To carry out a slight adjustment without removing the nib – hold the pen in your right hand. Rest the side of one prong on a sharp, firm edge of your work bench. With your left thumb catch the upper prong and press over and down. This will cross the upper prong over the lower, and when you examine the pen point you will find the slit spacing has been partially decreased. Move the pen to your left hand and rotate the pen so that the other prong is laid on the bench edge, and repeat with your right thumb to cross the opposite prong.

Once the nib has been properly spaced this should correct the ink flow, but inspect the prongs to ensure they are perfectly in line at the writing surface. If they are not, the pen will not write smoothly so further adjustment may be required.

Fourthly – further roughness or scratchiness on old pens is normally attributed to the iridium pellet being worn flat. This can be improved by the use of rouge paper 0000 grade. Smooth the nib by drawing some figure eights on the dry paper with light pressure, rolling the pen between the thumb and finger at the same time taking off the hard edges of the flat. Heavy, or any adjustment to NEW nibs is not recommended.

If there is any roughness or scratching or the owner has a peculiar way of holding/twisting his pen at an angle or exerting pressure, then the nib may have to be smoothed. This is best done by the owner himself, holding the pen in his writing position and simply drawing figure eights on abrasive paper (grade 1000) followed by rouge paper. The improvement by such a simple process amazes most students.

Finally, you must appreciate that there is a difference between the more rigid modern nibs and the older flexible nibs.

http://www.penmuseum.co.uk/master%202.htm

Nib Tuning, Smoothing, and Customizing – The Nibsmith

Tune & Smooth: Whether your pen won’t write at all or just needs a little adjustment, you’ll want the tune & smooth. This basic services includes reshaping the tip and aligning the tines to get the smoothest feel and adjusting the ink flow to your preference. The tune & smooth is included with all custom grinds and is not an additional charge.

Round nib: This is the most common nib type where the tip of the nib is shaped like a sphere to provide a consistent line in all directions. An extra fine nib will generally measure 0.20-0.25mm. An extra extra fine nib will generally measure 0. 10-0.15mm.

Stub: This nib is created by grinding a small bit of material away from the point transforming it from a sphere into a rectangular shape. The edges are then rounded to bring back the smoothness you get from a traditional round nib.

A stub grind provides line variation by creating a thick vertical stroke and a thin horizontal stroke. Stub nibs are recommended if you want to add a little pizazz to your everyday writing while keeping that smooth, round nib feel. Stubs can easily be ground as narrow as 0.5mm in width. Any narrower and their line variation starts to become less noticeable.

Cursive Italic: This nib is created in the same fashion as the stub nib, but the edges are slightly sharper. Cursive italic (CI) nibs provide excellent line variation by creating a thinner horizontal stroke than a stub nib at the cost of smoothness. Cursive italic nibs can be ground as narrow as 0.3mm while maintaining noticeable line variation.

Sharp Italic: Sharp italics, or just italics, are created just like stub or CI nibs but the edges are extremely sharp. They provide the maximum line variation by creating the thinnest horizontal stroke. Because of the sharp edges of an italic nib it will lay down a line with well defined edges, but also feel quite scratchy when compared to a stub or even a CI. These nibs are recommended for calligraphy.

Oblique: A nib can be ground into an oblique to compensate for a writer who rotates the pen in their grip. There are two types of oblique nibs, the left foot oblique (commonly referred to as just “oblique”) and the right foot oblique (commonly referred to as a “reverse oblique”). If you look at a left foot oblique with the nib imprint facing you, the tip would resemble the shape of a left foot. The left foot oblique compensates for a right handed writer who rotates their pen counter-clockwise. Oblique nibs can also be ground into stubs, CIs, and sharp italics.

Depending on how you hold the pen in relation to the paper, oblique grinds can also be used to achieve Hebrew-like or stub-like results.

Hebrew/Arabic/Architect: You can think of this nib as a stub rotated 90 degrees. It creates a thin vertical stoke and a thick horizontal stroke. Because of the nature of this grind it is important to hold the pen at the correct angle. Please let me know if you hold your pen at a shallow or upright angle so I can adjust the grind as necessary.

How to Write with a Fountain Pen

In the U.S., writing with a fountain pen is not something that you learn in school (unlike in other countries, especially in Europe), but many people find that they enjoy writing with a fountain pen much more than with a ballpoint pen or any other kind of pen because it’s more deliberate and intentional. Here’s our guide on how to do it!

Using A Fountain Pen Is A Special Writing Experience

These days with technology and innovation, we don’t even need to write by hand anymore, but we can just send messages or emails through our cell phones or laptops. However, a handwritten note can really convey that you really care about the recipient and they feel much more valued, than if you sent them a digital communication.

Even though you can use a ballpoint pen or a roller-ball, using a fountain pen gives you that unique character to your handwriting that can’t be replicated by anyone else. Why is that? A fountain pen has a metal nib with two tines, and you can control the thickness of the line by applying more or less pressure. Forging a nib is an art of its own, and the higher-end ones are made out of 18-karat or even higher karat degrees of gold. For example,  all Mont Blanc Meisterstück pens come with a solid gold nib (contributing to their price tag).

Personal notes are more meaningful when written by hand with a nice fountain pen

In general, prices for fountain pens can range from very few dollars to thousands of dollars. To learn more about inexpensive fountain pens and mid-range fountain pens check out our guides! Now, if a fountain pen is more expensive than a ballpoint pen or a rollerball, why would you want to invest in one? Well, the connoisseur appreciates the personality added to his penmanship, and it’s just a very different writing experience.

The look of the pen may underline your personality; the way it feels and writes are also potential attributes that you won’t find in other writing instruments. So, if you’re ready to give writing with a fountain pen a try, read on to find out how to choose a fountain pen that’s best for you, how to use it, and how to write with it so it brings you joy.

A Montblanc Meisterstuck 149 aka The Diplomat

Choosing Your Fountain Pen

1. Size

A fountain pen is a very personal instrument and it’s supposed to be perfect for your hand; if you have a big hand, get a bigger fountain pen. If you have a smaller hand, get a smaller one. When in doubt, it should never be too short and rather be a little longer, but you also want to pay attention to the width. When you hold it and if the pen is too wide,  it may be uncomfortable to write with it. Frankly, there’s no clear-cut answer for it, you simply have to try different ones, and different widths and lengths to figure out what feels comfortable in your hand.

Choose the size according to what best suits your hand

2. Weight

The second thing to pay attention to is the weight. In general, we often associate weight with something luxurious that is really full of craftsmanship. For fountain pens, that may be really nice if you just want one to sign something, but if you want it to write into letters that are pages long, you want something that is not too heavy, otherwise, your hand will tire out more quickly.

Again, figuring out whether something is too light or too heavy, also depends a bit on your personal preference; so I urge you to try different fountain pens at a store or something that is sent to you but always get a selection, so you can make sure you find something that really works for you. And don’t just settle for the first fountain pen you come across. Likewise, just because it’s expensive and a recognizable brand name doesn’t mean it’s best for you and your hand and your needs.

Choose the weight according to your preference

3.

Filling Mechanism

To write with the fountain pen, you need ink and it is typically found in a little cartridge inside the fountain pen. They’re basically small, disposable plastic tubes that hold the ink and they’re widely available. Yet, finding different colors can be a bit more tricky. Some brands also design their cartridges so you can only buy proprietary ones, which limits you in the choices of ink and it’s also more expensive, the longer you have the fountain pen.

Because of that, many people switch to a converter which is basically another plastic tube with a little mechanism so you can manually add ink to it and therefore, you open up the whole range of inks on the market. It’s also much less expensive, less harsh on the environment, and overall the more sensible choice.

Refilling ink with a converter mechanism

A more old-school way to re-ink a fountain pen is a piston mechanism. Typically, you just turn the spindle of the fountain pen which pushes a piston back and forth. It creates a low-pressure environment that sucks in the ink inside the fountain pen. When you do that, always make sure there’s a little bit of air left inside the piston, otherwise the ink flow may not be as smooth and nice as you want it to be.

In my opinion, it’s much more elegant than using cartridges or a converter and it’s my fountain pen mechanism of choice. In the early days of fountain pens, you could also find models with a lever and an ink-sac inside or some push-button mechanisms, but none of them have stood the test of time. And today the piston, the converter, and the cartridges are basically the options you have.

Piston mechanism for a fountain pen

4. Nib

Material

First of all, the material can be important and of course, the workmanship of the nib and how refined it is. Generally, the softer and more flexible the nib is, the better. While steel nibs are rather smooth and very economical, higher-end fountain pens typically come with gold or palladium nibs. Whatever the case, they’ll almost always have an Iridium-tipped point which hardens it because that’s where the nib touches the paper. Of course, gold and palladium tips are also much more expensive than more economical steel or other metal nibs.

Various fountain pen nibs

Size & Tip

On top of that, the size of the nib itself is also important; the larger the nib, typically, the nicer it is to write with it. Because of that, the most expensive fountain pens typically have larger nibs than less expensive fountain pens. Again, if you need twice as much gold for a nib for a big one, it gets even more expensive. The one thing even more important than the nib size is the tip of the nib, because that’s what you write with. These days you find extra-fine, fine, medium, broad, and very broad nibs; they’re often abbreviated as F, EF, M, B, and BB. 

One hundred years ago, fountain pen manufacturers would offer 50 different kinds of nibs including extra, extra fine, and extra broad. They also had stub nibs and oblique nibs that were slightly cut and angled just to get a different look. If you’re just starting out or if you’re a lefty, I suggest going with a fine nib or maybe a medium nib; this will give you greater flexibility and make it easier to write with it. Of course, you should always nibs in various widths if you’re able, so you can better understand how they look and feel differently.

Nib-comparison across the surface of paper. (Photo: The Goulet Pen Company)

In general, if you have a big hand and big handwriting, a slightly broader nib may look more appealing. On the flip side, if you like an elegant look and you have small handwriting, an extra-fine tip may be the right one for you. In calligraphy, stub or italic nibs are very popular.  Personally, I like really wide nibs for signatures because they give it a unique look that is very hard to fake. So, for signatures, I typically use an oblique 3B nib, which is a triple width and it’s very wide. I wouldn’t want to write letters with it though, because it’s uncomfortable.

Medium-sized nibs are the most common standard sizes and I like my handwriting to look a little different, so when I write longer letters, I typically go with something extra fine. That being said, I’m a big fan of flexible nibs that allow me to create a very fine, thin line if I apply less pressure and a much wider line if I apply more pressure. Oftentimes, vintage fountain pens have much more flexible nibs than modern fountain pens; so if you like the variation in your stroke, maybe you have to look into vintage fountain pens first.

Fountain pen nib samples

Writing With A Fountain Pen

1. Use A High-Quality Paper

Many regular printer papers are not really suited for fountain pen ink because as soon as you write on them, the ink bleeds and looks very bad. Instead, buy a paper that is made for fountain pens and when you write on it, it will look beautiful. The same is true for stationary if you want to write greeting cards — make sure it works with a fountain pen. A good paper doesn’t feather or run and it is often made out of cotton; so before you buy a paper, ask specifically if it’s meant to be written on with fountain pens or buy from a source that supplies them and advertises them as fountain pen paper.

Fountain pen paper

The broader your nib, the more ink will transport onto the paper and the longer it takes to dry. So if you write with a fountain pen and you touch it with your hand, you may smudge it and it will look terrible. To prevent that you have to either let it dry or use an ink blotter. If you want to get ahead quickly, and of course, always be aware that you can smudge the ink.

An example of an ink blotter for use with fountain pens

2. Post The Cap (Or Don’t)

Typically fountain pens come with a cap, and some people like to “post” the cap on the back part of the fountain pen because that creates a different balance. Personally, I have larger hands, and like larger fountain pens and posting a cap on top is not really necessary, and it creates a weird balance for me. So, I typically don’t do it with my fountain pens.

Some fountain pens, however, especially smaller ones are designed to have a cap posted in the back for the perfect balance. Again, this is something you have to try out yourself and see what kind of feel you like. On vintage fountain pens, I’ve often seen a cap crack, probably because it was posted too often and too aggressively. So, personally, that’s another reason why I don’t do it. The fountain pen I use for signatures is actually in a stand on my desk and the cap is mounted to the stand so I couldn’t even have the opportunity to post a cap on it.

Some people would post the cap at the back of the pen to create a different balance.

3. Hold The Pen at The Correct Angle

When you write with a fountain pen, it’s essential that you keep it at the right angle, and that you’re not flexible with your fingers. So, what exactly does it mean? If the tip of your nib is facing down on the paper and the slit is facing up, it should have a net angle of about 45 to 55 degrees. Once with that angle, write a few words to find that “sweet spot” for you that feels comfortable writing.

If you angle your nib above 55 degrees or below 45 degrees, it won’t write as nicely, it won’t be as smooth, and the ink won’t be transported as well onto the paper, and it’s just weird, it also sounds strange and scratchy. You also want to avoid twisting the pen because the tines should be in touch with a paper at times, otherwise, the ink won’t flow. 

Your nib should have a net angle of about 45 to 55 degrees. [Pocket Square: Straw Yellow Silk in Egyptian Scarab Pattern from Fort Belvedere]

4. Keep Your Hand Rigid

A really important distinction of writing with a fountain pen from writing with a roller-ball or ballpoint pen is that you have to keep your hand rather rigid. What do we mean by that? Well, some people are finger writers and they move their hand and their fingers as they write. With a round ballpoint pen that is okay because it works in every angle but with a fountain pen with a straight nib, that is not the case.

So, once you have the right angle with your fingers, you shouldn’t really adjust your wrist; it should just stay rigid, so you just keep on writing. Yes, there can be a little bit of movement, but you’ll figure out at what point in time it’s too much movement and the pen won’t write anymore. As a general rule, your arm and your shoulder will do more of the work than your wrist. Honestly, it sounds more difficult than it is, if you just try it a few times you’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly.

Keep your hands rigid when writing with a fountain pen; moving your hands and fingers as you write only works well with ballpoint pens

5. Apply The Right Pressure

Last but not least, you have to learn how to apply the right amount of pressure onto your nib. As the tip of the nib touches the paper, just apply gentle pressure and you’ll feel how the ink flows out. Please don’t press hard on it because it may damage your nib as well as the paper. Also, it means that you’ll get a lot more ink out of the nib and just not a good look, you’ll likely smudge it.

Pushing too hard may damage the nib

Can Lefties Write with A Fountain Pen?

Back in the old days, people who were lefties had to actually learn how to write with their right hand because it was the “proper” way to do it. In this day and age, children learn how to write with their left hand; it just requires a different positioning for their hand, so they don’t smudge the writing because it goes from left to right.

Personally, I’m right-handed, so I can’t speak from experience, but I know that lefties have found a way to hold it in a proper way so you don’t smudge your writing. If you are a lefty, I suggest you get a fine, medium nib because it allows for greater angle variation. Then, of course, you have to practice and I suggest you Google for a video for a lefty who shows you how to do it because my left-hand writing would not be a good example!

People who were lefties (like US President Harry Truman) had to actually learn how to write with their right hand back in the old days

Fountain Pen Care Tips

So, now that you know how you choose the right fountain pen for your hand and how you write with it, what else do you need to keep in mind?

1. Keep The Cap On

You should always keep the cap on top of the nib when you don’t write with the fountain pen. Why? Well, if you don’t, it dries out and you’ll have a hard time actually starting to write the next time around. Also, your nib may get damaged, so unlike with a ballpoint pen, you always want to put the cap and cover your nib. 

Always keep the cap on when not in use

2. Clean Your Fountain Pen Regularly

A fountain pen needs a bit more maintenance which means it has to be cleaned regularly. While some people suggest cleaning your fountain pen every two months, I personally do it once every couple of years. Ultimately, it depends on how often and frequently you use it and if it looks dirty and it doesn’t write properly, it’s time for a clean.

To do it, I suggest you hold your fountain pen under running water, you can also put it in a glass of water, let it soak and you can exchange the water until you don’t see any more ink color. A much faster way to clean your fountain pen is to use an ultrasonic cleaner, but that may be too costly if you just have one fountain pen. Ideally, you take all the parts apart, wash them individually, and let them dry gently on a cloth towel, for example, so you make sure there’s no water in the ink reservoir, otherwise, when you write and there’s higher water content, your ink won’t look as strong and it’s also more likely to bleed.

Clean your pen regularly

3. Keep It Away From Extreme Temperatures

Avoid exposing your pen with the ink to extremely cold temperatures because it may freeze or you shouldn’t just let it sit in the attic where it gets really hot because the ink can also dry in and then cleaning it may take a much longer time.

That being said, there are certain things that have a certain stabilizer added that is supposed to keep them from drying in but that goes only so far. If you expose the ink to extreme temperatures, it will dry out. If you live in an extremely cold environment, you can also try Noodlers Polar Ink which is freeze-resistant. Personally, I like the inks from Montblanc because they have nice colors and it doesn’t dry and even if I don’t use the fountain pen for a while. So what are the ideal conditions for ink storage? I’d say, I’d rather have the cool room temperature, darkest spot.

Keep your pens away from extreme temperatures

Should You (or Should You Not) Lend Your Fountain Pen?

One hotly debated item is if you should lend your fountain pen to someone else. Some people argue that giving your fountain pen to someone else means the whole dynamic of your fountain pen that took several weeks to achieve will disappear because someone else holds the fountain pen slightly different than you do. Others think that it doesn’t matter if someone else takes a quick note with it. At the end of the day, it’s something for you to decide, and you can see and feel how long it takes to write in your fountain pen until it feels like it is your fountain pen.

Conclusion

While writing well with a fountain pen is a skill that will take time and practice to master, the results are second to none. If you’ve decided to take the plunge but are wary of potential difficulties, take a look at our guide on common fountain pen mistakes and how to avoid them, and you’ll be writing confidently in no time!

Do you write with a fountain pen? How are you liking the experience? Let us know in the comments!

Pen Function Setting

Customize pen functions by assigning different functions to the pen buttons, adjusting pen tip sensitivity and pressure, and right-clicking.

Note. Some pens do not have buttons or an eraser.

Assign button and pen tip functions

  1. Open Wacom Tablet Properties.
  2. Note. The options available in the Wacom Tablet Properties window vary by device model.

  3. If you see line Tool , select your pen.
  4. Select tab Pen .
  5. For each of the pen buttons, choose an option from the drop-down menu next to the pen image.
  6. For a pen tip, double-click the pen tip image to display the drop-down menu. Then select the options to be performed when the pen touches the tablet surface.
  7. Warning. To draw in most graphics applications, the pen tip must be set to function Click .


    The screenshot above is for illustrative purposes only. It may not match the actual screen image.

Customize other pen settings

  • Pen Double-Click Radius : You can use the slider to change the distance from the pen to the tablet surface when you double-click.
  • Current pressure : To determine the pressure required when using the pen, check the current pressure by tapping in an empty area of ​​the Wacom Tablet Properties window with the pen tip or eraser.
    • Use the sliders Pen Sensitivity and Eraser Pressure to change the pressure for using the pen tip or eraser.
  • Options : To select how you click the mouse button with the pen, click Options and select a different pen button mode .
  • Tilt Sensitivity : Use the slider to change the effect of tilting the pen on pen strokes. Open an app that supports the tilt function to check the effect of your changes.
  • Pen Sensitivity Information : To change the pen tip sensitivity, press the Customize button and customize the advanced pen and eraser settings.

Tips.

  • Select Click as the pen tip action and Double Click as the action for one of the pen buttons.
  • If you need a narrower pressure range for a pressure-sensitive application, set Pen Sensitivity to Soft.
  • If pressing lightly causes the pen to react excessively, try setting Pen Sensitivity to Hard.
  • If you experience a delay in strokes, strokes, and drag-and-drop operations, try setting a lower value for Pen Double-Click Radius , or assign the double-click function to a pen button rather than a nib.
  • Pen defaults can be restored. To do this, go to the Pen tab in the Wacom Tablet Properties window and click Default .

Proper Use and Care How the fountain pen is assembled.

Several decades ago, almost everyone knew how to use a pen. But today more convenient devices – pens – have come to replace him. They are used by schoolchildren and students, employees and managers.Not surprisingly, ballpoint and gel pens are easy to use and inexpensive. But this does not mean that everyone has forgotten about fountain pens. Some people prefer to use them exclusively. What for? It’s so intelligent and beautiful! In addition, such an accessory will definitely impress others. And in any case, the skill will be useful for your general development, why not?

Despite the fact that the accessory looks intimidating, do not panic and be afraid to take it in your hands.After practicing a few times, you can start writing with a pen, and each time you get better at it. At first, you will put a lot of blots, but thanks to our simple recommendations, you can master the technique as quickly as possible.

Benefits of writing with a fountain pen:

  • Good for arm joints
  • General Skills Improvement
  • No pressure like ballpoint pens
  • Impressing others – you must admit that not many people know how to use a pen!
  • Handwriting beauty

As you can see, the accessory has a lot of advantages.Therefore, if you were presented with a pen, you do not need to throw away this useful item – improve your skills and learn how to write beautifully with them.

But the accessory also has disadvantages – You will need to refill the ink frequently and occasionally need to be flushed. There are cartridges on sale with which you can easily refill ink without getting dirty.

How to write with a fountain pen correctly:

  • Forget about how you hold a ballpoint pen – it has nothing to do with a nib, so don’t even try to use the same technique.
  • In this case, you do not need to apply pressure, as the pen glides perfectly on the paper.
  • You need to tilt this pen model more, it should form the most acute angle with the surface on which the sheet of paper is located.
  • The brush is on the paper, not in the air.
  • You need to hold the pen in the hand that is your working one. If you are left-handed, you can find left-handed fountain pens for sale. The accessory should be placed between the 1st and 2nd phalanges of the middle finger.Then press it with your index and thumb, and tilt it at the desired angle towards you. The hand and part of the palm rest on the table surface. The optimum tilt angle is 45 degrees.
  • Start with thin lines and are easier to follow. After a few lessons, you can start making bolder lines.
  • If you want to draw a thin line, use the tip of the pen to touch the paper as lightly as possible, do not apply pressure. If you need a thicker line, apply a little pressure.


When will the results be?

Learning to use the pen is not so easy, as the accessory is heavier and has a completely different design.If in the first workouts you have a lot of blots and your wrist will ache, do not stop there and continue to train. You will see the first positive results after 4-5 workouts.

So that the fountain pen does not give you inconvenience and discomfort, buy a quality accessory. A cheap model will only discourage learning and you will end up without even starting. In any case, it all depends on your abilities and on your desire. Someone manages to master the pen in 5-6 lessons, someone in 15 or more.

How to write with a fountain pen: video

Many people cannot start practicing with the pen without demonstration lessons. That is why we have presented below an interesting and informative video on this topic.

Men’s online magazine website

There are already a lot of posts about various pens, including fountain pens, on ySkrepka. How do they work? What is the principle of writing with a fountain pen? I learned the answer to this interesting question in the pen-ru LJ community “Pens and pencils, calligraphy”.It turns out that the nib assembly of an ink pen can be divided into three parts:

  1. Feeder-Pen Block
  2. ink reservoir (disposable or refillable)
  3. handles with cap.

For a classic open nib fountain pen, this block looks like this:

The diagram requires a little explanation. We all know a can of condensed milk. And probably everyone knows the scheme for drinking condensed milk from a can – you need to punch 2 holes, through one of which you need to drink.What is the second hole for? If it is not done, a reduced pressure is created in the can without air flow and the liquid (condensed milk) stops flowing out of the can.

The ink pen is usually done a little differently. To simplify the design, the air supply channel and the ink supply channel were combined into one. And the speed of ink supply (and for different types of pens – for example, F and B need a different amount of ink when writing) is regulated by the width or, more correctly, by the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel.Ink goes to the bottom of the channel and is fed to the nib. Air through the air hole in the nib enters through the channel into the ink container and compensates for the pressure difference. Therefore, the combination of the air inlet, pen type and ink / air passage affects the normal ink supply.

In addition, two more elements of the pen play a significant role in this – a collector in the feeder and … ink. The collector is commonly used in open nib pens. Its function is interesting – it is a buffer, a microreservoir between the pen and the ink tank.These slots hold a small amount of ink for the pen to compensate for the writing speed.

Different writing speeds require different ink flow rates. You can “set” a certain average speed, but then when writing slowly, the pen will write boldly, at medium speed – optimally, and at high speed – there will be gaps in the letters. The collector in this case, at a slow speed, draws off excess ink into its system of ribs, and at a high writing speed, using the capillary effect, it gives up the accumulated ink.

Ink also greatly influences the character of writing. The thick ink in an EF nib pen simply won’t let you write, and too thin ink and a B nib can cause blots and very thick lines.

In addition to density, a significant role is played by the wettability coefficient, which is regulated by the addition of certain surfactants to the ink recipe.

The feather body is made of alloy steel, gold, titanium, and sometimes platinum. In very cheap pens, the nib and the nib (ball) are made of steel; in more expensive nibs, the ball is made of iridium or other hard-to-wear materials.

By the way, the creator of the pen-ru community “Pens and pencils, calligraphy”, Alexey Stakhnov, professionally makes pens. About one of his pen I have already – it turned out very worthy.

No. 1. Write with a fountain pen with strong pressure. Perhaps the most remarkable quality of a fountain pen is that it does not require pressure when writing – it can write literally under its own weight. Still, people who are accustomed to using ballpoint pens often continue to press on the nibbler when switching to fountain pens.Excessive pressure can cause the nibs to come apart and deteriorate. Do not try to paint a dry fountain pen by pressing or tapping on a hard surface, as you risk ruining it. Better hold it under running water – the handle will “come to life”.

Tip: Just relax and enjoy writing without pressure and without the effects of tired fingers.

No. 2. Quite a common mistake: carry a pen together with other metal objects: keys, key chains, a folding knife, etc.n. The body of your pen can be scratched, whether it is made of plastic, metal with a lacquered or anodized surface.

Tip: Always carry your pen separately from these items: in another pocket, in a pencil case, or place your pen in a pouch or case.

No. 3. Use in your fountain pen special calligraphic ink marked with the type: India Ink, Lawer’s Ink, Pigmented Ink, etc. This ink is designed for nib pens. Some of these inks are formulated specifically for use in fountain pens, but most are not.Calligraphy ink contains shellac, a resin that, when dried, completely blocks the ink passages in your pen. This ink only dissolves with alcohol, which can also ruin your writing instrument.

When a fountain pen needs to be refilled with waterproof ink, such as ink + watercolor sketching, pigmented inks — special for fountain pens, such as Platinum Carbon Ink, are commonly used. Remember that when using this ink, the pen should be rinsed more often.

Tip: When buying ink, make sure it is the type that fits with fountain pens.

No. 4. This mistake is often made by more experienced users: do not take care of the fountain pen. Caring for the pen is quite simple: the pen must be periodically rinsed with water at room temperature. Sometimes it is enough to hold the pen under running water. If a pen filled with ink has been left unused for a long time, and the ink has dried in it, place the nib for a while in a glass of water.If you are using a converter, then it is enough to fill the handle with water and empty it, repeating this several times until the water becomes light. By the way, with constant use of the converter, the pen requires less maintenance – the piston ink intake system automatically flushes the pen.

* Blog The Goulet Pen Company also recommends a syringe as a handy tool for flushing the pen nib. As they say, everyone has their own rituals, choose the one that you like best.

If you are using ink of the same color, the pen can be washed once a month.If you are changing ink, rinse it out before every new refill.

No. 5. This is not a mistake, but rather a death sentence for your fountain pen: rinse it with alcohol or acetone. Acetone dissolves plastic, and alcohol is quite aggressive to both the external and internal parts of the handle.

Tip: Use water to rinse the fountain pen – there is enough water for this task.

No. 6. This error can be fatal to your pen: drop the fountain pen when it has no cap on it.According to the law of a sandwich, she will fall down with a feather. If the surface is hard, it will bend and usually the feather cannot be repaired after that. In premium pens, nib replacement repairs can cost an entire pen. You will be more fortunate if you own a Lamy pen or a couple of other brands in which you can change the nibs yourself.

Tip: When you have finished writing, put the cap on the pen immediately.

Despite the fact that ballpoint and gel pens are used more and more in everyday life, true connoisseurs of writing instruments prefer to work with fountain pens so that they can write in beautiful handwriting.Parker ink pens are especially popular, as the stationery of this company is an attribute of prestige. To truly enjoy working with such writing instruments, you need to know not only how to fill the fountain pen with ink, but also how to insert and use it correctly. You will learn about all this from this article.

Types of cartridges for pens

Let’s dwell on the description of the cartridge to make it easier for you to pick it up in the office supply store.The cartridge is a straight or rounded plastic cylinder. At the factory, the reservoir is filled with fountain pen ink.

Important! Special calligraphy ink cartridges are also available, but these capsules are not recommended for use with pen pens.

The main differences between all cartridges (except for color, of course) are:

  1. Physical dimensions.
  2. Working flange shape.On one side, the capsule has a blind end, and on the other, a flange that fits over the pen feeder needle or simply slides into the handle. There is a simple device inside the flange that locks the ink inside the capsule. Constipation is of two types:
    • Thin membrane.
    • A small ball made of plastic (sometimes metal). After the ink enters the barrel, the ball moves freely inside the capsule and mixes the ink, preventing them from sticking to the walls.

Important! Many stationery manufacturers make money not only from the sale of fountain pens, but also from the sale of cartridges for them.Therefore, some companies develop writing accessories for their own standard of cartridges.

Most common cartridge standards:

  • International This name is unofficial, since many manufacturers from Europe, America, China and India produce pens specifically for this standard.

Important! The most popular short capsules are “International”, they are the ones most often bought at the office supply store.

  • Parker.Cartridges of this standard are available in two types – short and regular. The Parker standard is used in Lamy pens, but only in a short look, as the shape of the back of some pen models does not allow the use of conventional capsules.
  • Schaeffer Standard. Although many Schaeffer pens can also use International (short) cartridges.
  • The American company Cross has its own standard of cartridges. The stepped shape of the working flange successfully counteracts all attempts to use capsules from other manufacturers in Cross handles.
  • Japanese Pilot cartridges are distinguished by their corporate standard. In addition, the company produces special shortened cartridge for mini-pens of its own production.
  • Platinum (Japan) is also distinguished by its standard. In addition, only in the cartridges of this company metal balls are used, which, during the emptying of the tank, begin to knock and notify the owner of the need for an early replacement of the capsule.

Important! In addition to the above, at least a couple of types of cartridges from various companies are known, which are designed specifically for their own fountain pens, these are Sailor and Waterman.

How to refill and paint a fountain pen?

How to insert and change the core? In office supply stores, there are several types of different inks that differ in consistency, shade and quality. To refill the fountain pen with ink, use products labeled “fountain pens”. The filling method depends on the filling mechanism.

Important! When buying a new cartridge for your pen, be sure to only use the correct ink tank shape and size for easy and quick replacement.

Method 1

If the handle is piston-filled, proceed as follows:

  1. Disassemble the pen body.
  2. Rotate the ink plunger inside the housing counterclockwise.
  3. Immerse the nib completely in the ink bottle.
  4. Rotate the clamp in the opposite direction as far as it will go.
  5. Unscrew the clip slightly (until the first drop appears) to remove air from the container.
  6. Remove the nib from the vial and wipe it with a cloth.
  7. Assemble the handle in reverse order.

Method 2

If the fountain pen has a refill converter, proceed as follows:

  1. Remove the protective cap and free access to the converter.
  2. Dip the nib into the inkwell.
  3. Turn the converter head to the right.
  4. Purge the air from the reservoir by releasing a couple of drops of ink.
  5. Clean the nib with a paper towel.
  6. Assemble the handle.

Important! This instruction will be relevant if you need to refill the Parker pen with ink. And if you did not manage to do everything neatly, see a separate publication on our website, which sets out effective methods to.

Method 3

The replacement cartridge is easy to insert into the writing accessory:

  1. Remove the upper part of the housing.
  2. Remove the used cartridge.
  3. Insert new capsule until you hear a click.
  4. Wipe the pen dry.
  5. Tighten all parts of the fountain pen.

Important! Such models are also found at the eminent Parker brand.

Fountain Pen Usage Rules

To prolong the life of the writing accessory, follow these guidelines:

  • Be sure to clean the pen. This procedure involves flushing the pen through a converter. The reservoir must be filled with water and rinsed until the water is clear.

Important! Use room temperature distilled or filtered water to rinse the pen. After rinsing, blot the nib with a paper towel.

  • If a cartridge is used in the pen, remove it before flushing the pen. In this case, place the base of the feather in a glass of clean water for 30-60 minutes (depending on how dirty it is). The water level must necessarily cover the feather. After rinsing, blot the pen dry with a paper towel.If necessary, you can soak the feather overnight.

Important! Never use hot water, solvents, or alcohol-based solutions to rinse the pen, as this can damage the quality of the pen. Also, do not use tap water, as it can clog the nozzles of the pen.

  • Flush the pen every two weeks or when changing ink colors.

If we talk about how to properly use a Parker fountain pen or other model of an “ink pen”, experts and manufacturers recommend the following:

  • Do not press hard when writing to avoid damaging the pen.A good quality pen should slide easily on the paper.
  • It is not recommended to use ink that is one year old. Use only fresh food. If the ink has been idle for a while and is free of build-up, stir it first and make sure there is no lump or sediment on the bottom of the bottle, then apply.
  • Do not allow black ink to dry inside the pen as this can cause irreparable damage. Black ink contains gum arabic, which has adhesive properties.If such filler dries inside the handpiece, the damage will be irreversible.
  • If you do not plan to use the writing accessory for more than a couple of days, rinse the nib to prevent the ink from drying out.
  • Store ink away from sunlight to prevent drying and fading.
  • Do not write on chemically treated paper that has a glossy finish. This paper does not absorb ink.
  • If you are traveling by plane, do not fill the converter completely, it is better to leave it empty to reduce the risk of ink leakage.Hold the pen upright while the aircraft is taking off. If you decide to use the pen while flying, hold the pen upright when opening it and slowly remove the protective cap.

Important! To keep your clothes tidy and easy to clean in the most unforeseen situations, use our selection of tools and methods to help

Most of the literary masterpieces are written with a pen. It is only in the last hundred years or a little more that other, simpler and more convenient office supplies have come into use.And before that, both geniuses and scholars had to write with a fountain pen, experiencing all the attendant difficulties, from blots to spilled ink. Why should a modern person, who has at his disposal not only ball-point liners, felt-tip pens and markers, but also computer text editors, bother to write with a fountain pen? For example, to pay tribute to the literary talents of the past.

But even if you do not have writing ambitions, learning to write with a fountain pen is worth at least in order to develop beautiful handwriting and practice self-discipline, not to mention the special aesthetics of writing with a fountain pen.Obviously, using a fountain pen is much more difficult than popular writing instruments, you will have to come to terms with blots, stains and other inconveniences until you learn how to write beautifully and delicately with a fountain pen. In addition, a good ink pen is not cheap, but all the financial costs, time and effort spent will fully pay off with the pleasure that you get by learning how to write correctly with a fountain pen.

How to choose a fountain pen? Why write with a fountain pen?
Modern stereotypes about fountain pens define them as gifts – beautiful, status and very specific.Why? Because not every hero of the day, birthday and other hero of the occasion, knows how to write with a fountain pen, and will use it. So, he will thank for the present and put it in a beautiful case among the souvenirs, while he will continue to use his usual ballpoint pen. Such a reaction is easy to understand, and who in his place would not have done the same. But know that you are depriving yourself of the great advantages of a fountain pen:
And don’t think that only an old-fashioned professor or a smug dandy can write with a fountain pen – stylish stationery manufacturers produce ink liners so varied and effective that it will not be difficult to choose an option to your taste. , from noble classics to avant-garde originality.It will be more difficult to be limited to one copy than to learn how to write with a fountain pen.

How exactly does a fountain pen work? Features of the nib pen
It’s better to get used to using a fountain pen and learn to write on high-quality copies right away in order to appreciate all their advantages. Before buying a fountain pen, consult with more experienced acquaintances in such things, take an interest in the brands available in your city and pay attention to the following nuances: present.For yourself, especially at first, you can get by with high-quality, but more democratic brands, including those of domestic production.

  • Fountain pens from different manufacturers differ in length, weight and even the shape of the nib, but they have the same principle of operation and set of parts. The visible portion is the nib itself (nib) and the barrel, or barrel, and the protective cap that is worn over the nib when the pen is not in use.
  • The ink container is hidden inside the body of the fountain pen.This can be called a cartridge, that is, a replaceable bottle, or a converter, that is, a container for refilling ink. You need to consider how your fountain pen is refilled, especially since the shape and volume of containers may differ.
  • The nibs of ink pens differ in the width of the nib and, accordingly, in the thickness of the line on the paper. The width standard is defined and denoted by Latin letters: F – fine feather, M – medium width feather, B – wide feather. In addition, the style is influenced by the tilt of the nib and the shape of the ball at its nib.
  • A gold fountain pen is a beautiful but almost useless stereotype. The material of the body, core, and even the nib itself determines the level of prestige and possibly durability of the pen, but the material of the nib is much more important. The most durable is iridium, it is he, and not gold, that will last a long time without wear.
  • Some fountain pen models are adapted for left-handers, allowing for complex calligraphy or other specific tasks. But the general mechanism of work still consists in the supply of liquid ink from the body of the pen to the nib, the passage of paint between its teeth and hitting the surface of the paper.Well-tuned technology regulates the amount of ink and returns the excess back to the cartridge – the so-called capillary principle of fountain pens.

    How to write with a fountain pen correctly and beautifully?
    To start learning to write with a fountain pen, try to forget, or at least temporarily give up, the skills that you use with a ballpoint pen. Because the use of a fountain pen with ink, if not drastically, is very different. Regular training will quickly teach you the new rules, but for now, read and remember them:

    1. Those who are used to pushing the handle will have the hardest part.With a pen, a lot of effort is inappropriate and unnecessary: ​​the ink flows gently to the nib, and strong pressure can break through the paper. Although in art schools and classical calligraphy, it is the degree of pressure on the pen that determines the width of the ink trail and the typeface.
    2. The habit of holding a pen or pencil vertically or nearly perpendicular to the paper is not appropriate when using a fountain pen. Here, the tilt of the device is much stronger, the pen forms an acute angle with the horizontal, and the hand glides over the paper.
    3. Correctly hold the fountain pen with your working hand, placing it between the first and second phalanx of the middle finger, pressing slightly with the index finger and tilting the pen body towards you. The outer side (“rib”) of the palm from the wrist itself and the little finger should rest on the table.
    4. At first attempts at writing, the fountain pen may feel heavier than a regular ballpoint pen, which is not surprising given its material and complex design. In addition, the weight of the fountain pen provides momentum while training the wrist joint to hold and rotate the pen while writing.
    5. The fountain pen tip is very sensitive to pressure. Thanks to this property, it is easy to adjust the thickness of the line: with a light touch, it will be thin, with pressure – thickened. These delights are worth testing only after you learn how to write finely with a fountain pen and want to make it harder for yourself.
    The main difficulties that sometimes prevent you from writing beautifully with a fountain pen are related to the supply of ink to the tip of the pen. But they do not arise and / or are easily eliminated if the pen is of high quality and serviceable, and you need to learn to write with ink with just such a pen.A sincere desire to learn and the first successes will serve as the best motivation for further practice. Continue to use the fountain pen even despite the first difficulties. You will not even notice how writing with a fountain pen will become for you, if not commonplace, then at least not difficult and even enjoyable. 90,000 Fountain pen repair. Seven Fountain Pen Mistakes and How to Avoid Them Handstand

    In fountain pens, ink is prevented from pouring out of atmospheric pressure.If you draw water into a cocktail straw and clamp one end, then the water will be securely locked in it. But this technology works as long as the pressure is stable. If you board the plane with such a straw, then some time after take-off some of the water will still pour out, since at altitude in the cabin the pressure drops by about 25%. In the case of a fountain pen, an ink stain would form in the pocket.

    The most important part of a leak-proof fountain pen, the feeder, is partially or completely hidden under the nib.Above are one or, as in Monblanc pens, two capillary channels through which ink flows to the nib. Feeder ribs act as a kind of buffer on which excess ink accumulates and from which, in case of increased ink consumption, reserves are taken. Ink is retained on the edges by capillary action. Despite the seeming simplicity, the solution is very nontrivial, requiring outstanding knowledge of mechanics and physics.

    However, it is not necessary to take off for a catastrophe with an inkblot – a normal fluctuation in atmospheric pressure or a small shock is sufficient.To prevent this from happening, a rather ingenious solution was invented – a feeder with a ribbed collector. All excess ink was retained on the ribs due to the capillary effect. The feeder also performed other functions – the ink was supplied to the pen through a channel, the cross-section of which determined the rate of their receipt. Since the ink consumption was variable when using the pen, the collector also served as a kind of buffer.


    There are a wide variety of nibs available to suit a wide variety of writing styles.Classic, with a spherical tip, differ in its diameter – from EF (Extra Fine – 0.3 mm) to BB (Extra Bold – over 0.8 mm). Nibs with a flat tip, which can also be beveled for the left or right hand, are used for calligraphic writing.

    An equally important part of the pen is the nib, its quality determines the comfort of using the tool and the beauty of writing. The finest Montblanc nibs are made from sheet gold alloy with varying thickness – from 0.18 mm at the base of the nib to 0.52 mm at the nib.This provides a light springy moment, well known to Montblanc wearers, and enhances writing comfort. The body of the feather is stamped, bent, polished, engraved, and the tip of a harder metal is welded on. From the traditional sphere to the beveled flat nib for calligraphy, it is then shaped to suit the style of writing. Some Montblanc boutiques have computerized systems that allow, after a test task, to give out unique parameters of your writing style, according to which you can choose the right nib for you, and if you want to and on a budget, make a unique nib just for you.


    One of the final operations is performed with the finest diamond saw. It is this almost invisible cut that, due to the capillary effect, delivers ink to the tip and paper. All that remains is to manually polish it and insert it into the handle.

    To make it, you will need a sheet of paper of approximately A4 size and a ball rod. You can take not only regular writing paper, but also brown or newsprint (it will take a little more). A trapezoid-shaped blank with a base length of 14 – 15 cm is cut out of paper.Glue is applied along the base of the workpiece, a rod is pressed against it. After the glue dries, the rod is tightly twisted into the paper, and the edges of the paper are additionally coated with glue. Cones are formed along the edges of the product. In the lower part, the cone is needed for easy grip when writing, and the upper part can be trimmed with a clerical knife.

    The finished pen can be painted with acrylic paint, which does not dissolve in water after drying. Also, the pen can be pasted over with colored gift paper or scrapbooking paper, as well as a page from a glossy magazine or foil tape.To prevent the paper from rubbing off from constant use, homemade pens are additionally pasted over with transparent tape or varnished.

    Wood handle

    If you have access to a lathe, you can make an unusual wooden handle body. You will need pieces of wood, metal tubes, a rod, a pen mechanism, glue, and sandpaper.

    Do not forget that finishing materials can affect the color of the wood.Therefore, first test them on waste – this will help insure against unforeseen results.

    A saw, a machine, vapors of varnishes and adhesives, if used carelessly, can harm your health, so it is important to remember the safety requirements when working with them.

    Pen from a syringe

    A beautiful stationery can be made from an ordinary disposable syringe. The nozzle of the syringe is reamed to the size of the writing unit of the rod. The body is filled with colored gel, rhinestones, sequins.A rod is inserted inside, cut to the size of the syringe body. The piston is poured with glue to fix the rod.

    Handle made of threads

    A tourniquet is woven from thick threads, a rod is inserted into the middle. The threads can be taken different in color and structure, the main thing is that they are of the same thickness. The plait is braided very simply: one thread is superimposed on the other from the middle to make a square. You can fix the rod in the bundle with a drop of glue.

    Fountain pen

    To make a pen in the old style, you need to take a large goose or turkey quill.If desired, paint it in any color or several at once. The fluff at the base must be cut off and slightly sanded with a soft sandpaper so that the future handle is comfortable to hold. The tip of the pen should be cut off at an angle – it is very hard, and you can write with the resulting nib.

    You can also insert a steel feather into the bird’s feather, and mask the joint with decorative material. A feather made in this way will be more durable. And of course, you can insert an ordinary ballpoint into the nib.

    Gel pen

    It differs from the usual ballpoint pen in that a gel rod is inserted into the prepared flask. The gel pen-aquarium looks original. To create it, you will need a transparent tube with a wooden stopper, sealed at one end (something suitable can be found in a pharmacy or chemical store).

    A hole is made in the cork along the diameter of the rod, and the cork can also be painted with acrylic paint. A mixture of water and glycerin is poured into the flask – the more glycerin, the thicker the filler, and the slower the decor will float in the body.We put sparkles, stars, foil fish into the flask, insert the rod into the cork and close the flask tightly (for reliability, you can fix the cork with waterproof glue).

    2-in-1 pen

    To create it, you need to take a pen and a simple pencil. Disassemble the pen, cut off a part from the pencil, based on the length of the pen, and insert it into the body of the pen. To adjust the pencil to the diameter of the handle, it must be cut off with a sharp knife and sanded with sandpaper.

    Insert the pencil into the body and secure with adhesive tape.Next, we cut the rod and assemble the handle. Now the pencil will always be at hand – on the back of the pen with which you write.

    By the way, do not throw away the rest of the pencil, it may still come in handy.

    And finally – a pen for spy game lovers

    A fountain pen – regular or made yourself – can be filled with invisible ink. It is quite easy to make such ink. The only thing is that you will not be able to pour them into the rod, because they are very liquid.

    The most common are three types of invisible ink and three ways to read what is written:

    • diluted solution of copper sulfate – hold the paper over ammonia
    • lemon juice – heat the paper with an iron or a lamp
    • milk – iron the letter with a hot iron.

    Nice handle can be bought at any store. But if you are a fan of exclusives and a lover of handicrafts, you can make a one-of-a-kind pen.Self-made stationery will become a unique author’s souvenir for you and your friends.

    do it yourself.

    “Nowadays very few people write by hand. The age of computers, mobile phones and other gadgets seems to have completely atrophied the ability to write with a pen. All the more beautiful. Even more so – with a pen. This is why calligraphy skills are becoming a valuable skill.

    Imagine how pleasant it is for your loved one to receive a postcard written in a special font, and even by hand.You can purchase a fountain pen from an art store. But the above product is rare. It’s not just about firms and types of metal nibs.

    We would like to bring to your attention the most ancient natural writing instrument – kalam (or kalam). It was used by the ancient Persians and Indians. You will get it absolutely free if there is a reed growing in your area.
    Interesting? Well, then be patient and go after the reeds.

    Late autumn is about time.At this time, he fully matures. Green doesn’t suit us.

    Leaves must be removed from the quarry. Dry for a couple of days.


    Ready? Take a sharp knife. A penny’s enough. Cut one segment first.

    Measure a thumb-length from the edge.

    Very carefully, without showing strength, we cut off one layer of the stem by half the diameter.

    Cut again at an angle of about 30 degrees, backing off a little.

    Then we make the cut angle even sharper.

    Gives the appearance of a wide, flat feather.

    Cut off its tip so that it is even. Like this.

    We clean up all the irregularities. Then turn the pen over and cut off the layer, stepping back 1.5 mm at an angle of about 45 degrees.

    It is best to do this on a table or any other convenient flat support. The finishing touch. Be careful. You need to make an incision right in the middle of the feather.

    But first, so that the crack does not go along the entire reed, it is necessary to make a small hole. Ideally, a thin drill is used. But you can pierce with an awl.

    Kalam is ready. Now you need mascara or ink. If you succeed, you can try to repeat the well-known fonts of the Middle Ages. But this is optional. Try to write a few letters and you might get your own font.

    With the help of kalam and ink, you can beautifully sign a postcard, a note for a gift, the packaging itself.And what are the possibilities in the decor … Good luck! ”

    Thanks to Dmitry! I’d like to add that I saw a scribe with a calligraphic pen at the Medieval Festival in Spain. It cost him 3 euros to write a name beautifully on a prepared sheet …

    In order not to forget the page address and share with your friends, add to yourself on social networks:

    Fountain pens were used in the 19th century because they are very comfortable. But the old pens had one drawback: they wrote with ink that got dirty.But if you insert a ballpoint into the nib, the pen will be both comfortable and stylish.

    To make a ballpoint pen from a bird’s feather, you need an old pen, a nib and a little patience.

    What the pen is made of

    Old ballpoint pen (better than Bic, since they have a thin core),
    – bird feather (goose, swan, peacock, stork or any other),
    – scissors,
    – yarn.

    How to make a pen

    Find a bird’s feather. It can be any pen that you feel comfortable in your hand.But keep in mind that long tail feathers are the best. The larger the nib, the better. This will make the handle bar easier to fit inside.

    Always wash feathers found outside. You can wash the pen under running water, carefully removing bugs and dirt from it. It should be beautiful, flawless.

    Disassemble the ballpoint pen. Take the rod out of it. Cut off the tip of the feather with scissors. Try to insert the rod inside. If it is too long, cut off the tip with scissors and try again to insert it into the nib.It is good if there is a little ink in the rod, since then you will not get dirty with it.

    Take yarn and cut about 50 cm. Place the end of the yarn on top of the end of the feather where the shaft is inserted and leave a piece about 7 cm long. Start wrapping the second, longer end of the yarn around the feather and short end.

    Try to wrap as tightly as possible. When the handle is tight enough, tie both ends of the yarn. Five knots should be enough. To keep the tips from sticking out, you can glue them to the feather.

    Handle ready.

    Other nib ballpoint pen variants

    Adhesive can be used instead of tape. Glue should be applied to the inside of the pen. If the nib is too narrow, it can be cut from the side. Then add super glue, insert the core inside the nib and let the nib dry. Instead of glue, you can use scotch tape wrapped around the bottom of the nib, but then the pen will not look so pretty.

    For a more comfortable grip, the feather can be shaved a little from the down, which is usually attached to the bottom of the feather.To do this, you can use an ordinary clerical knife. Peru, if desired, can be given a different shape using the same tool. Gently run the knife along the feather, from bottom to top, taking care not to break it.

    It all depends on personal preference and the look of the pen. Peacock feathers are so beautiful that they are best left as they are; for a softer feather, you can leave them in water overnight.

    The feather can be colored with hair dye. Dissolve the paint in a plastic bowl and dip the nib in it several times.Then rinse the pen with water.

    No. 1. Write with a fountain pen with strong pressure. Perhaps the most remarkable quality of a fountain pen is that it does not require pressure when writing – it can write literally under its own weight. Still, people who are accustomed to using ballpoint pens often continue to press on the nibbler when switching to fountain pens. Excessive pressure can cause the nibs to come apart and deteriorate. Do not try to paint a dry fountain pen by pressing or tapping on a hard surface, as you risk ruining it.Better hold it under running water – the handle will “come to life”.

    Tip: Just relax and enjoy writing without pressure and without the effects of tired fingers.

    No. 2. Quite a common mistake: carry the pen together with other metal objects: keys, key chains, a folding knife, etc. The body of your pen can be scratched, be it plastic, lacquered or anodized metal.

    Tip: Always carry your pen separately from these items: in another pocket, in a pencil case, or place your pen in a pouch or case.

    No. 3. Use in your fountain pen special calligraphic ink marked with the type: India Ink, Lawer’s Ink, Pigmented Ink, etc. This ink is designed for nib pens. Some of these inks are formulated specifically for use in fountain pens, but most are not. Calligraphy ink contains shellac, a resin that, when dried, completely blocks the ink passages in your pen. This ink only dissolves with alcohol, which can also ruin your writing instrument.

    When a fountain pen needs to be refilled with waterproof ink, such as ink + watercolor sketching, pigmented inks — special for fountain pens, such as Platinum Carbon Ink, are commonly used. Remember that when using this ink, the pen should be rinsed more often.

    Tip: When buying ink, make sure it is the type that fits with fountain pens.

    No. 4. This mistake is often made by more experienced users: do not take care of the fountain pen.Caring for the pen is quite simple: the pen must be periodically rinsed with water at room temperature. Sometimes it is enough to hold the pen under running water. If a pen filled with ink has been left unused for a long time, and the ink has dried in it, place the nib for a while in a glass of water. If you are using a converter, then it is enough to fill the handle with water and empty it, repeating this several times until the water becomes light. By the way, with constant use of the converter, the pen requires less maintenance – the piston ink intake system automatically flushes the pen.

    * Blog The Goulet Pen Company also recommends a syringe as a handy tool for flushing the pen nib. As they say, everyone has their own rituals, choose the one that you like best.

    If you are using ink of the same color, the pen can be washed once a month. If you are changing ink, rinse it out before every new refill.

    No. 5. This is not a mistake, but rather a death sentence for your fountain pen: rinse it with alcohol or acetone.Acetone dissolves plastic, and alcohol is quite aggressive to both the external and internal parts of the handle.

    Tip: Use water to rinse the fountain pen – there is enough water for this task.

    No. 6. This error can be fatal to your pen: drop the fountain pen when it has no cap on it. According to the law of a sandwich, she will fall down with a feather. If the surface is hard, it will bend and usually the feather cannot be repaired after that.In premium pens, nib replacement repairs can cost an entire pen. You will be more fortunate if you own a Lamy pen or a couple of other brands in which you can change the nibs yourself.

    Tip: When you have finished writing, put the cap on the pen immediately.

    90,000 Montegrappa Mule Handle – Buro Choice 24/7

    Fountain pens have been made in the Montegrappa workshops since 1912.The product is special, so it couldn’t do without eminent writers in the lists of clients. Montegrappa fans include writers John Dos Passos, Paulo Coelho and Ernest Hemingway. And also a couple of dozen living and deceased politicians and celebrities: Pope John Paul II, Silvio Berlusconi, Sylvester Stallone, Michael Jackson, Quincy Jones, Zinedine Zidane and Naomi Campbell.

    Italians also love all sorts of collaborations: for example, recently released pens in the style of “Game of Thrones”.And some time ago – a limited edition Grappa in honor of the famous Italian grape vodka.

    What is the connection between spirits and the oldest fountain pen manufacturer from Italy? First of all, geographic. Montegrappa pens and a strong grape drink originate from the same locality – Bassano del Grappa, which lies in the Brenta Valley. This is how the alcoholic story received a well-deserved continuation: Montegrappa releases the Mule model.

    In the copper case of the new handle, the connoisseur of strong cocktails can easily guess the reference to the copper mugs in which the correct “Moscow mule” is supposed to be served.

    Montegrappa has clearly gotten carried away with the theme and, in addition to the limited edition pens, have come up with their own Mula recipe. The new cocktail is called Montegrappa Mule. It is prepared, as the name implies, on the basis of forty-degree grappa with the addition of bergamot and habanero pepper.

    Montegrappa Mule Pen will be available not only in fountain pen, but also in ink and ballpoint versions. However, it seems to us that if you are going to buy a thing so rare and unique, then it is better to stop at the classic with a feather tip.Moreover, the thickness of the stroke can be adjusted from thin to wide, and you can choose a cartridge or a convector as a refill. The ability to assemble the handle actually for yourself is a separate nice bonus.

    A solid purchase can be immediately celebrated: a copper mug and an exact Montegrappa Mule recipe are included with the new handle. Unless you have to buy grappa separately.

    90,000 All about fountain pens and more – LiveJournal It seems that today fountain pens are very rarely used as utilitarian writing instruments and are practically not used for developing calligraphic handwriting.The further, the more they become an element of the image of the owner, a person who wants to stand out in his environment, and “retrain” into a pleasant, sweet, prestigious and still useful gift. “Can they still be classified as stationery?” – the question is more than relevant, because everything that happens today with fountain pens, from production to promotion on the market, is an attempt by manufacturers and sellers to enhance the emotional benefits of this product and “keep it alive.”Is it true or not? Let’s take a closer look at fountain pens (we did not include consideration of exclusive samples related to the VIP segment in the review) and their position in the range of companies selling stationery.

    It is known that people began to write with pens a very long time ago, and the history of a fountain pen is the history of the search for new technologies, materials, designs. The prototype of modern fountain pens appeared at the end of the 19th century. According to legend, the idea to take on the creation of a normal writing instrument came to the mind of insurance broker Lewis Edson Waterman after the signing of an important contract was disrupted due to a greasy blot.Subsequently, fountain pens have been repeatedly improved, and their modern designs will never leave an ink stain on business papers, will not leak in a pocket, or scratch the paper.

    Materials and production
    “From a technical point of view, the most important structural elements of fountain pens are the nib and the ink supply system,” says Aleksey Levitsky, Deputy Head of Marketing Development at Baltic-STM. – Although purely visually, the buyer first of all pays attention to the pen and the body of the product.However, one is unthinkable without the other. ” So what are the feather and body made of?

    Pen
    The pen is not only the heart of the pen, but also its face, and the main acting one. The nibs of modern fountain pens are made of metals. But pure metals, due to their mechanical properties, are unsuitable for production, therefore, in most cases, alloys based on brass, steel, nickel, silver and gold are used. If the nibs are made from non-precious metals such as stainless steel or brass, plating with gold or silver helps improve their corrosion resistance and appearance.

    If we are talking about executive writing instruments, then, as a rule, their nibs are made of silver or gold. “The nib fulfills one of the main image functions of a gift fountain pen,” believes Aleksey Levitsky, “therefore, sometimes nibs are deliberately made larger, and artistic engraving and gilding are applied to them. A gold or silver nib especially increases the prestige of the item. ”

    However, according to a number of experts, the choice of material does not have a decisive influence on the elasticity and flexibility of the pen.More significant factors are the size of the feather, its shape and design, the thoroughness of the grinding, and the processing of the point. If a nib is made of stainless steel rather than gold, it can be as strong and flexible and resilient as gold. Since both steel and gold wear out quickly enough when writing, the nib is made of a more expensive and harder metal, usually of the platinum group – iridium or rhodium.

    Silver alloys usually use 925 sterling silver and hardening elements – copper, nickel or zinc.Pure silver is used only for silvering. The softness of pure gold makes this metal completely unsuitable for making feathers, so copper, nickel, silver or zinc are also added to the alloy to give it hardness. Variations in the concentration of individual metals in an alloy affect the appearance and characteristics of gold. For example, the color of 18K gold ranges from light yellow to pink and red depending on the additives. All gold alloys have extremely high resistance to atmospheric and water corrosion, which is why they hardly tarnish.

    There are three main types of industrial gold alloys used in the manufacture of fountain pens:

    Gold 9K (375 parts of pure gold per 1000 parts of alloy). The hardest and cheapest gold alloy.

    14K gold (585 parts of pure gold per 1000). Medium in value, the alloy that most gold nibs are made from.

    Gold 18K (750 parts per 1000). Softer than previous alloys, but hard enough to be used in feathers.

    White gold – an alloy of gold with silver and palladium. White gold is usually produced in the 18K version, but it is used in industry very economically.

    Also used for the production of feathers are metals of the group, which includes platinum, rhodium, iridium, osmium and palladium, which have the same physical, mechanical and chemical properties. They are all white and extremely resistant to corrosion. Platinum is a soft metal, but with the addition of a small amount of other metals, it quickly hardens, and for the production of products it is used in the form of an alloy with a content of 950 parts per 1000.Osmium and palladium are used primarily for nibs, and the strength of these metals makes nibs extremely strong and durable.

    As ancient as the fountain pen was, it remains a very high-tech product today. Many operations in the manufacture of pens are still performed by hand. So, the production of just a pen can include up to thirty sequential operations.

    It is known that the metals used in the production of feathers, over time, “fit” under the arm of the owner, once and for all memorizing the features of his handwriting and inclination.However, this does not mean at all that the pen cannot be chosen in accordance with your style of writing. Manufacturers, as a rule, offer several degrees of pen thickness, which are denoted by the Latin letters F, M, B, their combinations with U and E determine the intermediate thicknesses.

    The following designations are traditionally accepted:

    UF – ultra-thin nib designed for artistic work, but not for writing;
    EF – Extra Fine – for writing thin lines with light pressure;
    F – Thin – Ideal for normal writing with thin lines with medium pressure;
    M – medium – for medium pressure and medium line width, universal nib;
    B – wide – with a massive rounded point for thick lines;
    EB – Extra Wide – with a large, rounded tip for thick lines and expressive signatures;
    EEB – Extra Extra Wide – for people who write quickly in thick lines and want their signature to look distinctive.
    First and last degree nibs are extremely rare on the mass market. Nibs are also available for oblique thin (OF) and thick (OB), straight and oblique italic writing styles. The effect of italics and calligraphic handwriting is achieved by placing a specially flattened small ball of wear-resistant iridium on the nib tip, which changes the thickness of the line when moving in different directions. In addition, some manufacturers make special angled feathers for left-handers.

    Companies that produce prestigious writing instruments often not only give a lifetime warranty on their products, but can also replace the nib at the request of the buyer. “For classic Pelikan pens, the nib is usually made of yellow gold and decorated with rhodium,” says Marina Borisova, Director of Avantre. – The nib is always made with great care and you can choose your own for each type of handwriting, because the nib must be chosen according to the hand. If the pen in the pen you purchased does not fit the owner, Pelikan will replace it with a different one.The markings on the nib always denote the thickness of the nib, the fineness of gold and the logo of the manufacturing company. ”

    Ink Supply
    Modern fountain pens have several ink supply systems. These systems can be designed like a converter or cartridge. Ink is pumped into the converter using a pump or piston system, while cartridges are analogous to conventional rods that cannot be refilled, they are usually supplied to less prestigious models. Throw away the cartridges after use.

    The modern ink supply system for fountain pens is quite complex. The intensity with which ink is applied to the pen depends on several factors: air temperature, atmospheric pressure, and the pressure with which the pen is pressed against the paper. That is why the ink supply system in modern pens, in addition to capillaries that equalize internal and external pressure and prevent ink from spilling out, is complemented by a manifold and a special pen pressure control chamber. All this is done in order to provide the pen with exactly the amount of ink that is required at the moment.

    The collector is responsible for the portioned supply of ink to the pen. If a wide nib is used or the pen is writing very quickly, the manifold increases the amount of ink supplied to the nib, and vice versa. The control chamber is designed to compensate for both high atmospheric pressure and disproportionate pressure on the pen. It acts as a kind of pressure compensator so that ink does not spill out when pressed firmly.

    Cartridges are convenient and easy to use, but require sufficient care from the supplier.“The main challenge lies in the transportation of the cartridges,” says Maria Volkova, Marketing Manager at Petropen Plus. In low temperatures, ink may freeze and the cartridge may burst. Therefore, cartridges and pens have to be packed separately, in addition, from September to March shipments of cartridges to the regions are limited. ”

    Body
    The first handles in the 19th century were made of hard rubber. To improve their appearance, various ornaments were applied to the walls of the cases or plates of gold or silver were rolled.Now collectors from all over the world are hunting for these first examples of pen jewelry art. Today, the development of technology allows the use of a wide variety of materials in the production of pen casings, including titanium, which was considered extremely difficult to process and almost unusable in the 1970s due to its hardness. “For the manufacture of gift pens, metals are mainly used – brass, aluminum, steel, which are subsequently finished with varnish, paints, wood, and in rare cases, stone,” says Alexei Levitsky.- Sometimes gilding or silvering is done. Fountain pen bodies can be made entirely of precious metals or wood, as well as various types of plastics such as acrylic. ”

    In any case, the body material always affects both the price and the scope of the handle. To develop the writing skills of schoolchildren, European manufacturers offer simple but high-quality materials. For example, the body of Centropen fountain pens is made of strong, highly viscous plastic that is resistant to breakage, and even if it breaks, it does not form sharp edges.The body of Herlitz fountain pens, designed for children, is made of bright colored plastic, often with a pattern, a grip zone designed for a child’s hand, a sticker for the name of the child. “The quality of the main element – the pen – remains ‘adult’ even in children’s models,” notes Maria Volkova. “The nibs are made of stainless steel and have an iridium nib for clean and comfortable writing.”

    Stainless steel is often used for the production of the case, which is then additionally decorated.So, in Index pens, the stainless steel case is covered with varnish or colored acrylic on top, which gives the pens strength and elegance at the same time.

    Pure aluminum is a very soft metal that deforms easily. But in alloys, it acquires the necessary hardness, while maintaining lightness and pliability in processing. Therefore, aluminum alloys are often used in the manufacture of pens, for example, the Senator and OHTO brands. In addition to aluminum, the Senator also uses carbon and high-grade steel – polished or brushed.But the body of the most expensive writing instrument of this brand is covered with polished black Plexiglass, which makes the pen massive and gives it impressiveness.

    In some models of OHTO tools, the aluminum alloy is supplemented with a rubberized grip zone. But in the Asechi model, the body is made of cellulose acetate, which, thanks to the old Japanese Rokuro technology, completely recreates all the nuances of the texture of the tortoise shell.

    The use of natural materials in handles is very popular.For example, Expert Complete gift pens are made of wood – maple, walnut or oak, sometimes two types of wood are combined, which is complemented by a metal finish in gold, silver or platinum. But in the finishing of the case of some models of the Protege brand, genuine leather is used.

    If we turn to writing instruments of the high price segment, then we will talk about precious metals, unusual and rare materials, expensive processing. For example, the case of “Pens of the Year – 2005” from the Graf von Faber-Castell collection is made of the skin of a stingray that lives in the Pacific Ocean.The processed leather resembles small pearls, and since each stingray has an individual mosaic of scales, this material makes any piece exclusive. It was with the skin of the stingrays that the samurai traditionally trimmed the hilts of their swords. Faber-Castell Classic collection pens are made from precious woods – reddish-brown pernambuc, matte ebony or dark brown grenadillo wood combined with platinum.

    Aurora pen bodies combine silver, gold, chrome, precious and semi-precious stones, resin, avrolide.And the Italian company Marlen loves to use modern materials in the production of expensive models, for example, fiberglass, for which the company’s specialists have developed an exclusive technology for silvering. Ferrari da Varese’s writing instruments in the Konia collection are made from horn, while limited editions from the same manufacturer are encrusted with diamonds and coral.

    Speaking of materials, one cannot fail to mention that the bodies of the pens are always coated with varnish, which can be of two types – synthetic and vegetable origin (it is called Chinese or oriental).Chinese varnish is very expensive, requires compliance with the most complex centuries-old application technologies and therefore is used only for the production of exclusive writing instruments. Fountain pens coated with oriental lacquer have a perfectly glossy surface and exceptional resistance to environmental influences and even fire.

    Segmentation
    Fountain pens on the Russian market can be divided into two groups: pens for every day and tools of the gift assortment.It is not worth dwelling on the first ones in detail, since they are made of ordinary materials, have a traditional design and are presented in approximately the same price category. Alexey Levitsky suggests classifying the gift assortment pens as follows: by price offer and by the prestige of the product: “There are very expensive exclusive models of pens from renowned manufacturers. The price of such products is more than 1000 USD. e. These pens are large, richly decorated and have luxurious packaging.

    Pens less than $ 1,000 That is, also supplied by well-known manufacturers, these are products with a more strict, classic design. Their prestige is ensured by their trademark, sometimes a gold nib, and a case, which can be gilded or silver.

    Pens from little-known brands costing less than $ 100 That is, they usually have bright, lurid designs, large sizes and, accordingly, large packages. Often this fountain pen is sold with a rollerball or ballpoint pen, sometimes even with a watch or key ring. “

    However, it is worth noting that, democratizing the lines of prestigious writing instruments, many reputable brands are increasingly launching a series of inexpensive fountain pens on the market. Which consumer to focus on, of course, each supplier chooses for himself.

    “Pens are in stable demand, the price of which ranges from $ 50 to $ 200,” says Oksana Shlamovskaya, Foreign Economic Activity Manager of the Procurement Department of Ekort Group. “Among the Aurora writing instruments, there are inexpensive pens for young people starting at € 20.”

    “Our company offers three price segments for fountain pens,” says Mikhail Tyurkin, Deputy Director of Tovarischey Group. – The lower one is represented by handles of the Index and Centropen brands, the wholesale price of which is from 0.42 USD. e. up to 1.67 usd. e. per piece. The products of these brands do not compete with each other, as they are addressed to different target audiences. Centropen users are elementary school students just starting to shape their handwriting. Index fountain pens are intended for adult buyers, as a rule, middle managers: they write with these metal instruments at work and at home, and use them as a gift.

    The middle and upper price segments in the Tovarishchey Group are represented by Senator fountain pens. The price of pens in the middle price segment is from 4.1 to 25 USD. e. They are successfully sold in the stationery market, as well as in the advertising and souvenir markets, since almost all models can be used for applying logos and inscriptions. The top segment is the Senator President series. The wholesale price of a pen with a gold nib is 165 USD. e., with an iridium tip – 75 usd. e. “

    Not all stationery companies consider it necessary to present fountain pens in several price segments in their assortment.

    “There are very few individual fountain pens items in the assortment of the Protege brand by ProBuro,” notes Tatiana Churkina, Product Manager of Proburo. “Most often, this fountain pen comes with a rollerball or ballpoint pen.”

    In general, experts note that the demand for fountain pens, although not massive, is quite stable.“Fountain pens occupy their niche in parallel with ballpoint, capillary, gel pens and rollerballs,” says Roman Shiryaev, brand manager at Smistar. – There is a demand for fountain pens, so we can say that they are relevant both for buyers and, accordingly, for sellers. The benefit of working with a product like fountain pens is predictable demand and a predictable target audience. ”

    Target Audience and Distribution Channels
    Since the vast majority of fountain pens are gift items, there is some difficulty in defining the target audience.It is clear that the simplest fountain pens of a low price segment are in demand by schoolchildren and rare lovers of writing with a pen every day. But as far as the buyer of fountain pens is concerned, he is by no means their consumer. After all, pens are purchased as a gift, as noted by most experts, mainly for middle-aged men with above-average income. Although the recipient of such a gift can also be a woman over 25 years old, most likely, she is a business woman.

    “Fountain pens are bought as a gift and mainly for people over 20 years old.The main age segment is people from 25 to 55 years old, – says Alexey Levitsky. – 55% of buyers are women, 45% are men, 90% are people with higher education. Marketing research of the expensive fountain pen market claims that more than half of their consumers do not play sports, do not go to casinos, bars or restaurants, but at the same time lead an active cultural life – attending cinemas, theaters and concerts. The most interesting was the fact that when people buy an accessory as a gift, most of them choose a pen! “

    For a long time, in the hunt for a buyer, many manufacturers have been trying to individualize their products, addressing them to persons of one or the other sex, different occupations, interests. “Manufacturers are striving to bring“ female ”and“ male ”pens to the market, – says Tatiana Churkina. “There are both exclusively“ feminine ”pens – graceful, elegant, decorated with precious stones, and quite“ masculine ”- strict, solid, restrained tones, such as the Expert series by Waterman.”

    Gift pens are sold through retail and corporate channels. “Most of it is distributed through retail chains, because it is important to present this product successfully,” says Alexei Levitsky. “In addition, gift fountain pens are very expensive items that do not take up much space in the warehouse. Therefore, on a small amount you can earn ten times more than on the same number of cheap “logo” pens.

    Such a product as gift fountain pens must be able to offer the consumer, and for this he must be provided with comprehensive information support from managers and sellers, as well as the appropriate trade equipment at the points of sale.They may not sell by themselves. Although, in fact, the expensive pens of the world’s leading brands such as Parker, Waterman, Rotring are unique products distinguished by their reliability and durability. Gift fountain pens should always be in perfect condition and have an excellent presentation, hence the complexity of their storage. If we talk about promotion, then it is mainly aimed at the end points of sales. For shops “Baltic STM” offers trade equipment and various POS-materials: catalogs, posters, CDs.We are the official distributor of TM Rotring, therefore we conduct training for the staff of retail stores and make sure that the sellers know the assortment well. Also, Baltik STM organizes sales promotion campaigns both among its managers and among the sellers and managers of its clients’ retail networks ”.

    Demand, as experts say, is quite stable throughout the year, but, like any other gift products, it increases during the holiday period. Another surge in demand, according to Alexei Levitsky, occurs at the time of final exams, when educational institutions give graduates pens with engraved commemorative inscriptions.

    Packaging and accessories
    Since fountain pens, as has already been noted many times, are often bought as a gift, it is obvious that every gift, let alone expensive, must be properly wrapped. Packaging is almost half the success in the case of fountain pens, so many suppliers place particular emphasis on packaging, often asking the client to choose the right case for himself. In addition, fountain pens are often purchased as a gift with ballpoint pens or rollerballs.

    “The most popular positions are inexpensive fountain pens from the proven brands Parker, Rotring, Waterman, etc.,” says Alexey Levitsky. – Baltik STM does not supply these products in sets, since we are talking about piece goods. But in the assortment of wooden handles Expert Complete sets are present. Most in demand are wooden fountain pens complete with rollerballs. And the more expensive the sets, the higher the demand for them. Some wooden fountain pen cases are utilitarian and transform into an original stand that locks upright and sits comfortably on your desk.Thanks to the original packaging, you can also effectively decorate the showcase.

    Packing of Rotring fountain pens can be cardboard, leather cases, boxes and tubes are also in use. When purchasing a Rotring fountain pen, excessive presentability of the packaging is not a determinant. The end consumer of this product buys the pen. However, the most expensive pens from the Parker, Waterman and Rotring collections certainly have exclusive packaging. ”

    “The most in demand are sets that include a fountain pen and a ballpoint pen,” says Mikhail Tyurkin.- You can also make a rollerball and fountain pen set, or three items at once. We offer the customer to independently decide what his gift will consist of. There are about nine types of classic design pens for Senator pens, which use artificial and more expensive natural materials. For Index sets, you can choose cases from 11 original models of modern design made of wood or plastic. Almost all Index fountain pen models are specially made in the same style with rollerballs and ballpoint pens and are recommended in the company’s catalog for gift sets. “

    Companies supplying fountain pens, especially of prestigious brands, must necessarily have in their assortment accessories – refill inks and cartridges. It is worth noting that many serious manufacturers give a guarantee for their products and, as already noted, if the client wishes, they can replace the pen, but repair and replacement of components is carried out at the manufacturer’s service centers.

    Anastasia Efimova (Stationery Review)

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    Product characteristics

    Body material ABS plastic
    Bar code 4893925603281

    Packaging information

    Packaging width 8 cm
    Packing length 18 cm
    Package height 3.5 cm
    Weight 0.07 kg

    Manufacturer

    Manufacturer Grinda
    Homeland of the brand Germany
    Country of origin China