Eraser soft: General Pencil Magic White Extra Soft Vinyl Eraser

Choosing a Rubber: Comparing Erasers

Most people assume they know all there is to know about erasers. But there are different types for different jobs and you are more likely to get the result you want if you use the right tool. After testing different types of erasers, different brands and different methods I have discovered a few things that might help you get the most from this small but important drawing implement.

After thinking about the following questions I set out to see if testing would help me sort out the differences between erasers.

  • What eraser removes coloured pencil?
  • Do all rubbers work equally well when ‘drawing’ into charcoal with a rubber?
  • What’s the best rubber to remove the graphite sketch from a finished watercolour painting?
  • Why do some rubbers smear and make a mess?
  • Why do some rubbers damage paper?
  • Is there a rubber that will remove a graphite line in a drawing without lightening the ink line on top?

Table of Contents

How will you be using your eraser?

An eraser removes dry medium from a surface (usually paper) but how you will be using it determines which type you will need. There are a number of things to consider when choosing an eraser.
Will you be using your eraser for:

  • creating highlights in subtractive drawing techniques, often with charcoal
  • removing mistakes as you start seeing your subject more clearly and your proportions start being more correct
  • removing your pencil sketch from underneath your finished watercolour or ink drawing
  • tidying up small areas and edges
  • removing some layers of colour to fade an area or so you can apply more on top
  • cleaning up a whole sheet of dirty paper
  • Also – what kind of paper and media will you be erasing?

Kinds of Erasers

All erasers work by being sticky. All types leave some sort of residue of the material it is made from- powder from the genuine rubber, vinyl from the plastic or oil from the putty. The residue usually isn’t a problem but occasionally you might find that it interferes with a drawing or painting process, so just be aware of it.

The two basic types:

1. Putty Rubbers

Kneadable putty erasers work by absorbing colour, they do not wear away. They can be very soft or quite stiff, but are not abrasive.

  • This type of rubber is the best choice for erasing highlights in charcoal or pastel because plastic and rubber erasers leave pieces that can smear the drawing when you rub them away, but a putty rubber collects the charcoal or pastel inside itself without leaving any crumbs to brush away.
  • As the graphite, charcoal or colour lifts off the paper and sticks to your eraser, you’ll need to fold the eraser in on itself (the ‘kneading’ part of kneaded eraser) to move the dirty bits away from the surface of your rubber so the eraser won’t add marks to your drawing. You may need to tear it apart and put it back together to clean it if it is a stiff one.
  • The usual method for using a putty rubber is to press and lift. The colour sticks to the putty and is removed without rubbing. They can be moulded to any size and shape you need for removing large areas or small details.
  • The makes of putty rubber vary a lot in softness- from very soft and melty to super stiff almost like a hard rubber eraser.
  • One source said a kneaded eraser is made from carbonated rubber and vegetable oil. So that might mean that the ones that feel particularly oily or soft might just have more oil. If you knead them thoroughly the oil seems to become distributed better throughout the rubber and they work much better. A bit of oil is left on the paper when you use these rubbers. You can see this if you brush charcoal over an area that you have pressed with a putty rubber, the charcoal will stick in that area (see the eraser shield photo of dark dots). I also tried rubbing the putty rubber on an area and painting a watercolour wash over the top. The stiffer putty rubbers left marks that accepted more watercolour, so there was a dark patch in the centre of the wash. I expected the opposite, that if it is oil it would leave a greasy mark that would repel water, so that was a surprise.
    And the ones that were softer (seemed oilier) didn’t do this with the watercolour, another surprise.
  • Some makes come in little boxes to keep them clean and to prevent their oil from transferring to other things.
  • Kneaded erasers are not very good for completely erasing an area. If you need to completely erase an area – first use a kneaded eraser to lift as much graphite as possible to prevent inadvertently pushing dark graphite farther into the paper, then use a firmer eraser to finish erasing completely.

2. Erasers That Make Crumbs

This group includes rubber erasers, gum erasers and vinyl/plastic erasers that all remove colour from the paper by picking up the colour and shedding parts of themselves. Each has a different hardness.

a. Rubber erasers (they used to be made of natural rubber and now some are synthetic rubber)- middle in the scale of firmness. A few contain abrasives like pumice – but those are usually just the rhomboid-shaped school erasers. The abrasives are designed to erase biro ink. Rubber erasers feel a bit powdery to the touch and this bothers some people a great deal. It’s not always easy to tell some synthetic rubber erasers from plastic erasers if they don’t say anywhere, in that case, I go by the powdery feel.

b. Gum erasers (also called art gum erasers) – Designed to crumble very easily as they collect up the graphite so they do less damage to the paper. But since they crumble away they don’t last as long. Very soft.
c. Plastic/vinyl erasers – the firmest eraser. The most popular eraser, these modern erasers usually give the most complete removal of graphite. If you are like me the word ‘plastic’ might make you think they wouldn’t work well, I mean you can’t erase with any of the other plastic items on your table, right. But you need to remember two things: plastics come in a huge variety of formulas and also ‘plastic’ can means ‘pliable’ as in ‘the plastic arts’ meaning sculpture.
Many plastic erasers come with paper sleeves that you can use to hold the rubber. ‘Dustless’ means that the eraser residue particles clump together for more complete removal, leaving fewer tiny particles that are actually still on the paper but you don’t see… until you take a close-up photo. They can be heat-moulded into many shapes, both for finger grips and for sharp edges that allow the erasure of fine lines.

In addition to the ‘block’ shape of most erasers there are speciality shapes as well as a few special tools:
  • Pencil and pen erasers for fine points (also called click erasers, detail erasers, barrel erasers) this style allows you to precisely pinpoint even the tiniest mark and remove it completely. They usually contain plastic erasers.
  • Electric erasers- These battery-powered tools spin the eraser on your paper and crumble away fairly quickly so the refills come in multiples. The advantage is that that you can erase precisely where you want and it is very gentle on the paper.
    They usually contain plastic erasers.
  • Specialty – fibreglass pen, cleaning cushion with eraser dust for cleaning up a whole sheet of dirty paper, erasing knife or razor blade and more


Why do so many erasers state they are ‘phthalate-free’?
Phthalates are a chemical additive that makes plastic pliable (like a squeeze bottle) instead of hard (like the keys on your keyboard). There is more and more evidence that this chemical group affects the human body in negative ways as phthalates interrupt the hormonal system. Many brands of erasers have stopped using them. These plasticisers are in many plastics we use every day, I think they are of particular concern in rubbers because rubbers crumble and this must help expose more of the chemical to the air and skin.

Brands that do not contain phthalates:
Factis (all styles)
Faber-Castell (most styles)
A few others, we have tried to make a note of it on all the product descriptions on the website. Some don’t say.

Tips For Using an Eraser

  • Most erasers have more tack, are more pliable and less likely to tear the paper if they are a bit warm, so it can help to hold your eraser in your hand for a few minutes before using it.
  • For clean, smudge-free results, resist the urge to brush the eraser crumbs off with your hand as this can cause unwanted smudging and blowing the crumbs off can add dampness to the paper. Instead, a good habit to get into is to lift the paper and shake the crumbs off. A drawing broom/drafting brush can be really useful.
  • With all erasers remain aware of how hard you are pressing. Accidentally rubbing too vigorously can cause your paper to buckle and crease.
  • Erasers aren’t only for removing mistakes they can be used as tools for creating art. For one of the most common subtractive drawing techniques, you cover a piece of drawing paper completely using a graphite pencil or block; charcoal or charcoal powder; or graphite powder. Then with an eraser, you create the highlights of the image. You can always re-fill any areas where you’ve over-erased.
  • Using a craft knife you can cut a rubber into the size or shape you require for your drawing. Some artists prefer a sharp edge to their eraser.
  • Erasing Hard or Soft Pastels – Most erasers work to remove pastels (hard and soft) but many people have had mixed results. If your surface is very textured you may have trouble and if your paper is very soft you will need to be careful. Many people find that a putty rubber works best, again using a press and lift action.
  • If you intend to erase small exact areas you might wish to try an eraser shield. A great little device, that is a good value in the drawing companion set.
  • You can carve into firm erasers to create a printing stamp similar to lino cutting but with the carved eraser you can print just by pressing down, like a rubber stamp.
  • Putty rubbers need to be kneaded before the first use to expose the porous inner surface which is able to pick the graphite up rather than just smear and to distribute the oil evenly, don’t skip this step if you wish it to work properly.

Interesting fact no. 1: the original eraser was a squashed up piece of soft bread. You can still use bread if you don’t have a rubber, just pinch out the centre of a slice.
Interesting fact no. 2: the rubber plant is named after the eraser, not the other way round. Joseph Priestley, in England in 1770, noticed that a piece of the latex material harvested from a tree worked extremely well for rubbing off pencil marks on paper, hence the name “rubber” was given to the material, the plant and in the UK to erasers.

Subtractive Drawing with a Rubber

Some beautiful drawings have been done using the subtractive method. For this you coat your paper with a layer of charcoal or graphite by rubbing a stick of charcoal or graphite all over or by brushing on charcoal or graphite powder. Then you create your drawing by removing the grey to expose the white of the paper.
In my tests with both rubbed-on charcoal stick and brushed-on charcoal powder the putty rubbers and rubber erasers performed equally well – the putty rubbers could be moulded into shapes to press on and the rubber erasers had sharp corners for fine control. A plastic eraser performed poorly, however. The charcoal acted as a lubricant, the plastic eraser slipped all over the surface and could not crumble away so after a stroke or two was slick with black and could not remove any more.

Erasing Coloured Pencils

This shows a heavy application of coloured pencil.
The best method for removal of coloured pencil or a large amount of dark graphite is using a 2-step process.
Step 1: press and lift (do not rub) with a putty rubber until no more comes off, folding the collected colour inside the rubber.
Step 2: finish erasing with a plastic eraser or rubber eraser in a rubbing manner.

Many people find coloured pencils hard to erase and usually impossible to erase completely. They think the best you can do is lighten an area enough that you can colour over it. Most of the time plastic or rubber erasers smear it so it enlarges the problem.
But I found that if you use a two-step method you can erase coloured pencil quite thoroughly. I used Faber-Castell Polychromos Crimson thinking it would be a tough one to erase because it is oil and wax as well as red which is often a staining colour.
First- using a putty rubber, press and lift to remove as much colour as you can. All nine brands that I tested work well at this. Secondly- use a plastic eraser to finish erasing the coloured pencil. This includes the electric erasers, their tips are plastic erasers. All brands worked equally well. This two-part method worked well for light and medium applications of coloured pencil; very dark applications didn’t erase completely, though were better than expected.

Find out which eraser is right for you

Because erasers are inexpensive you can try a few to find out what is best for you, or have a selection of erasers in your tool box for different purposes.
I made test sheets that included hard (6H), medium (HB) and soft (6B) graphite pencils in two degrees of pressing down – light and heavy. I also included HB graphite with Faber Castell Ecco pigment liner . 8 pen line to see if I could erase the graphite without damaging the ink. I also included light and heavy lines of Faber-Castell Polychromos Crimson coloured pencil. And finally, some lightly applied HB lines with a blue watercolour wash over the top to see if the graphite could be erased without the watercolour being disturbed.

Jackson’s have a wide choice of erasers:

Kneaded Putty Rubbers

Putty rubbers left to right:
Jakar, Koh-i-noor, Factis, Faber-Castell, Jackson’s, JAS, Winsor & Newton, Derwent, Daler-Rowney

Putty rubbers need to be kneaded thoroughly before the first use.
My testing showed that the softer ones – Jakar and Faber-Castell – are easier on the hands and perform best by pressing and lifting, but overall they fail at some tasks such as removing graphite lines from underneath a watercolour wash. The stiffer ones hurt the fingers if you do a lot of kneading (every press or every few strokes you need to squish the colour that you’ve picked up to the inside of the rubber) and they perform best in a combination of press/lift and rubbing. A few performed better than others at press/lift to lighten coloured pencil (which can then be more easily erased with a plastic eraser or drawn over). All performed equally well at subtractive drawing in charcoal. The stiffer they got the better they performed on graphite lines though about half of the putty rubbers could not remove graphite under watercolour at all. Because they contain oil I also checked if they left greasy marks on watercolour paper that would act as a resist and cause watercolour to bead up on top. None of them did, they did the opposite – the stiffest ones felt like they abraded the paper and when washed over with watercolour the area that had been rubbed was a bit darker with watercolour.

The darker rectangle in the watercolour wash were areas where these putty rubbers were rubbed before the watercolour was washed over the top. Not sure if it abrasion or greasiness that caused this. Left to right: Jackson’s, JAS, Winsor& Newton, Derwent, Daler-Rowney.

Jakar Blue Putty Rubber, very large
First kneading: very smoothly, a bit like chewing gum, was easy to start, easy to knead, held together very well. Very soft. Second kneading of small piece next day: gooey, very soft.
How it performed: Not well. It lifted some graphite and charcoal by pressing on and pulling off rather than rubbing but didn’t lift loads. Except it was as good at lightening coloured pencil as other makes. It didn’t damage the watercolour paint but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was pointless. This was easiest to use but only performed well at subtractive drawing with charcoal and at the two-step coloured pencil erasing – if you are just doing that this might be a good choice. Be careful with storing it, it can become very sticky and adhere to other items in your pencil box and can be very difficult to remove.

Koh-I-Noor Kneaded Eraser in Plastic Case
First kneading: very difficult to start, hard, had to tear into pieces and put them back together again, eventually got smooth after a lot of twisting and tearing. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.
How it performed: Was better when rubbed than when pressed and lifted. Best on the light lines of graphite, not so well on the dark. Fine on press and lift for coloured pencil lightening. Great on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens without lightening the ink. Removed the graphite under the watercolour with only slight lightening of the paint, might be the winner for that task.

Factis Putty Rubber
First kneading: very difficult to start, almost impossible like trying to tear a plastic eraser apart, eventually tore into pieces and put them back together again, never got smooth or held together, was a lot of work, I made a usable piece by kneading a small portion at a time. Second kneading of small piece next day: very hard still like hard rubber.
How it performed: Worked moderately well when rubbed or when pressed and lifted. Best on the light lines of graphite, not so well on the dark. Fine on press and lift for coloured pencil lightening. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. Removed the graphite under the watercolour with a bit more damage to the paint than the one above. Felt abrasive.

Faber Castell Putty Rubber
Great reviews: not crumbly, not oily, comes in a plastic box to stay clean.
First kneading: very smoothly, was easy to start, easy to knead, held together well, got fuzzy at the edges. Soft. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.
How it performed: Fine on light graphite lines and same as the others on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. It didn’t damage the watercolour paint but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was pointless at that task. This was one of the easiest to use and performed well at subtractive drawing with charcoal and at the two-step coloured pencil erasing as well as some graphite erasing – if you are just doing those things then this might be a good choice.

Jackson’s Putty Rubber White
First kneading: a bit stiff, had to twist it to get it to move, held together like gum except when I stretched it more than 2cm then it would form fine threads that had little bits caught in it that fell out like snow, so I felt I was losing bits of the rubber. This was prevented by only using a twisting motion or pressing motion, not a stretching motion. Then it was fine. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.
How it performed: Fine on light graphite lines and same as the others on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. It lifted a bit more watercolour paint than the others but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was bad at that task.

JAS Grey Economy Putty Rubber
First kneading: a bit stiff, had to twist it to get it to move, held together like gum except when I stretched it more than 2cm then would form fine threads that had little bits caught in it that fell out like snow, so I felt I was losing bits of the rubber. This was prevented by only using a twisting or pressing motion, not a stretching motion. Then it was fine. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.
How it performed: Fine on light graphite lines and worst on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. It didn’t remove too much watercolour paint but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was bad at that task.

Winsor & Newton Putty Rubber, Medium (customer reviews are variable)
First kneading: the hardest one, almost impossible like trying to tear a plastic eraser apart, never even tore into pieces, never got smooth or held together, was a lot of work, I made a usable piece by twisting a small portion at a time. Second kneading of small piece next day: hard.
How it performed: Best one on graphite lines and same as the others on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. It didn’t remove too much watercolour paint but didn’t erase the graphite at all so was bad at that task. Was very hard to knead between dabs and rubs.

Derwent Kneadable Eraser
First kneading: very difficult to start, hard, had to tear into pieces and put them back together again, never got smooth or held together, was a lot of work, I made a usable piece by kneading a small portion at a time. Second kneading of small piece next day: fine.
How it performed: Fine on light graphite lines, not good at dark graphite lines and not great on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. Removed the graphite under the watercolour with a bit of damage to the paint.

Daler-Rowney Putty Rubber
First kneading: very difficult to start, hard, had to tear into pieces and put them back together again, never got smooth or held together, was a lot of work. Second kneading of small piece next day: hard.
How it performed: Fine on graphite, ok on coloured pencil. Fine on removing the graphite under pigment liner pens and didn’t lighten the ink. Removed the graphite under the watercolour with not too much damage to the paint.

Plastic Erasers

Plastic erasers test showing variety of crumbs produced.

Plastic erasers test results.
Click for larger view.

Steadtler Rasoplast White Eraser (phthalate and latex free)

Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser

Staedtler PVC Free Eraser

Staedtler Combi Mars Plastic Eraser White & Blue – (two sides – one for graphite and coloured pencils and the other for ink) (phthalate and latex free)

Koh-I-Noor Thermoplastic Eraser, Polygonal, 3-pack (This product has now been discontinued)

Koh-I-Noor White Oblong Plastic Eraser 4770, 30mm small

Koh-I-Noor White Oblong Plastic Eraser 4770, 60mm large

Faber Castell White Eraser with Black Swivel Sleeve, Small (phthalate free)

Faber Castell White Eraser with Green Swivel Sleeve – large (phthalate free)

Faber Castell Eraser KOSMO mini, White (PVC-free)

Three ‘dustless’ erasers
‘Dust-free’ means that crumbs clump together which can be good if you are having trouble removing all the eraser dust from your drawing, the teeny tiny particles can be hard to get rid of. But I found the trade-off not great – the rubber is very wobbly and the build-up of the clinging piece acts like a lump of rubber wobbling under the rubber that I had to ‘thump’ over.

Dustless (dust-free) eraser crumbs are larger but can build up under the eraser in an interfering clump.

Faber Castell Green Dust-Free Eraser (‘dust-free’ means that crumbs clump together) (phthalate free)

Faber Castell Dust-Free Eraser, Black. Black and coloured erasers do not leave any colour from the eraser on the paper. They are dark so that when erasing on dark paper a white ghosting effect is not left as can happern with white erasers. They also look less grubby when they are dirty.

Faber Castell Dust-Free Eraser, White

Faber Castell PVC Free Eraser, White with Red Sleeve (phthalate free)

Faber Castell White Vinyl Eraser, small

Faber Castell Vinyl Eraser White and Blue (This product has now been discontinued)

Faber Castell White Vinyl Eraser (PVC-free)

Faber Castell Triangular GRIP

Faber Castell Eraser Cap, Twin Pack

Faber Castell UFO Eraser in a gift package

Derwent Shaped Eraser, Twin Pack

Derwent Dual Eraser, Twin Pack (pvc and latex free)

Caran D’ache Technik Eraser for Graphite (phthalate free) – non-abrasive, not for ink

Caran D’ache Design Eraser for Graphite and Coloured Pencils (phthalate free) – non-abrasive, not for ink

Caran D’ache Artist Soft Eraser – Recommended for Drawing Paper (phthalate free) – extra soft, non-abrasive, not for ink

Caran D’ache Triangular Eraser (phthalate free) – non-abrasive, not for ink

Jakar Plastic Eraser

Maped Softy Eraser, Pack of 2 (phthalate free)

JAS Soft Sketching Eraser

Kokuyo Kadokeshi 28 Angle Eraser (This product has now been discontinued)

Kokuyo Miri 5 Function Eraser (This product has now been discontinued)

Rubber (natural and synthetic) Erasers

These are the ones that feel dusty to the touch. Some people find this annoys them very much and they will not use rubber erasers. It doesn’t bother me at all and I have found over the years my go-to erasers are rubber ones. My favourite after this test is the Jackson’s because it erased well, is easy to grip and has a good edge.
The tests showed that the dust from a rubber eraser is finer than from a plastic eraser, so it really helps to have a dusting brush to carefully remove it if you are worried about smudging your drawing.

Rubber erasers test results.
Click for larger view.

Koh-I-Noor Combined Eraser – natural rubber – soft red side for erasing pencil marks and a hard blue side for erasing pen lines.

Koh-I-Noor Big Soft Elephant Eraser – natural rubber – oversized giant eraser, can be cut into many smaller erasers in the shapes you desire or makes a fun gift. (This product has now been discontinued)

Faber Castell Natural White Rubber Eraser

Faber Castell Latex Free Eraser, Red and Blue (two sides: one for graphite and colour pencils and the other for ink. )

Faber Castell Latex Free Eraser, Cream and Grey, natural rubber (two sides: one for graphite and colour pencils and the other for ink.)

Factis Softer Eraser, synthetic rubber

Factis Triangular Eraser, synthetic rubber

Jackson’s Round Soft Eraser

Daler Rowney Mystic Eraser, Medium, India rubber (This product has now been discontinued)

Cretacolor Monolith Eraser, Small, natural rubber, soft

Cretacolor Monolith Eraser, Large, natural rubber, soft

Winsor & Newton Griffin Eraser

Gum Eraser

Factis Soft Rub Gum Eraser

Milan Master Gum

Click Erasers and Eraser Pencils

Click erasers test results.
Click for larger view.

Wooden pencils with erasers inside them instead of lead inside – that you sharpen like a pencil
I like these but found the brushes on the ends weren’t very good, for a small area a soft paintbrush works better and for a large one a dusting brush is better.

Staedtler Mars Rasor Eraser Pencil (phthalate and latex free)

Koh-I-Noor Soft Eraser Pencil

Faber Castell Perfection Pencils
Great reviews, pinpoint detail. Available in single or two-pack, double ended with hard and soft rubber or with a brush on one end.

Faber Castell Perfection Pencil, Single Ended Eraser (soft for graphite, coloured pencils and charcoal)

Faber Castell Perfection Eraser Pencil, Single Ended Eraser, Set of 2 (soft for graphite, coloured pencils and charcoal) Great reviews, pinpoint detail.

Faber Castell Perfection Pencil Eraser with Brush

Faber Castell Perfection Pencil, Double Ended Eraser, two hardnesses of rubber

Precision click erasers
These Tombow erasers have great reviews and give you pinpoint detail.

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen : Round Tip, White Barrel (plastic eraser)

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen, Round Tip, Black Barrel (plastic eraser)

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen, Square Tip, White Barrel (plastic eraser)

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen, Square Tip : Black Barrel (plastic eraser)

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen REFILL, Square Tip

Tombow Mono Zero Eraser Pen REFILL, Round Tip

Eraser holders

Derwent Eraser Pen (PVC & Latex free) (This product has now been discontinued)
Derwent Eraser Pen Refills

Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser Holder

Koh-I-Noor Plastic Eraser In Holder
Koh-I-Noor Refill for Plastic Eraser Holder
Koh-I-Noor Refill for Plastic Eraser Holder 9736 : Pack of 5

Electric Erasers (battery operated)

Both of these require 2 x AAA batteries and both have great reviews.
These are great tools. The provide gentle yet complete erasing. It might seem silly, like how lazy can you be to need an electric eraser, but it is a better tool. It actually erases more precisely and with less chance of damaging the paper, you can hold it just barely touching the paper. The brands are quite similar in their results. Both of these use plastic eraser tips of a similar diameter. Both need to be refilled often during use as the soft plastic wears away fairly quickly. The Derwent has longer eraser refills but you need to stop and remove the carrier and pull the eraser forward to extend it, so it’s about the same amount of effort as replacing the jakar refill.

Jakar Mini Electric Eraser Pen
Jakar Mini Electric Eraser Pen 30 Refills

Derwent Battery Operated Eraser
Derwent Battery Operated Eraser 30 Refills

After completing the erasing task both brands seem to have used a similar amount of eraser – see the two compared before and after side by side.
Also note that the Jakar refills are shorter and are inserted directly while the Derwent refills are longer but use a carrier that you need to remove each time you need to extend the eraser forward.

Specialty Erasing Tools and accessories

Factis Cleaning Cushion

Image 1: drawing has been dirtied with charcoal smudges.
Image 2: the Factis cleaning cushion eraser dust was sprinkled on and rubbed with a finger and it instantly turned black everywhere it has picked up the dirt.
Image 3: the right side is now cleaned of smudges everywhere the crumbs were rubbed.
Click for larger image.

Faber Castell Round Eraser, Platinum-plated (comes in a gift box, for the artist who has everything)

Pentel 4 Eraser Refills for XP205 mechanical pencil end

Faber Castell Glass Fibre Eraser Pen. Erase ink from transparencies and rust from metal.
Faber Castell Glass Fibre Eraser Pen Refill

Faber Castell Erasing and Sharpening Knife
Not suitable for erasing large areas where a rubber works better. But tiny little areas that are resistant to a rubber, perhaps it is a splatter of paint, a lump of some sort or a stain on the paper – a very gentle scraping will remove the lump or scrape away a very thin layer of paper so the stain goes. Also sharpens pencils like a knife.

Derwent Eraser Shields (This product has now been discontinued)

Drawing Companion Set. A set of drawing tools for sharpening, blending and erasing. Includes a putty rubber and an erasing shield. (This product has now been discontinued – this is a close alternative Jakar Drawing Companion Set)
Very good value.

Faber Castell Perfect Pencil with Eraser + Sharpener (2B pencil with pencil extender, sharpener and eraser all in one)

A dusting brush
Removes crumbs more thoroughly with less chance of smearing.

The 3 rows of white dots in the charcoal are left to right: rubber, plastic and putty. They all work equally well. You can also create dark dots with all three types because they all leave some sort of residue that charcoal will stick to. See the black dots – an area was erased and then when charcoal was rubbed over the area it was darker there.

2019 Update:

We are constantly updating our ranges to meet the needs and requirements of the artists who shop with us. We have a selection of new erasers which are all suitable for different styles; some are great for precision erasing and adding highlights to pencil drawings, while some are great for erasing large sections of graphite.

Milan Gigante

As the name suggests, this is the ‘giant’ of the Milan family – the largest eraser of the collection. The eraser is made of soft synthetic rubber and it is suitable for removing strokes from graphite pencils on all kinds of surfaces. Because of its size (6.8 x 5.1 x 2.8 cm) we don’t recommend it for precision erasing.

Milan Master Gum

This eraser has a strong absorption capacity for charcoal and graphite. It erases easily with no need to press hard on the paper, forming smooth eraser dust. It can also be used to erase or smudge marks made in charcoal drawings, adding a useful dimension to your artwork. Made from synthetic rubber.

Milan Jet

This pen-shaped eraser holder fits comfortably in your hand and feels sturdy. A simple click mechanism brings out more of the eraser, which is replaceable. The plastic eraser is suitable for erasing all graphite pencils. It measures 7 mm in diameter and 120 mm in length.

Jakar Eraser Pen

This Eraser Pen from Jakar is perfect if you require precision erasing. With a retractable eraser which measures 0.4mm across, the pen also features a handy pocket clip and has a comfortable grip. The eraser is PVC/Phthalathe free. Simply push down the end of the pen to push the eraser up and to retract, push down the end of the pen while pushing down the tip of the eraser.

Milan Stick

This innovative Milan Sharpener and Eraser stick will save space and is simple and convenient. It features a slide-out stick shape eraser made from soft synthetic rubber which is suitable for a wide range of graphite pencils. It has a concealed sharpener at the other end, complete with a safety blade which prevents the blade from separating from the sharpener. The carbon steel blade is sharp and perfect for standard size graphite and colour pencils.

Jakar Two in One Combination Sharpener/Eraser

This innovative and portable Jakar sharpener combines a reservoir sharpener with an eraser, which has a plastic cap to keep it clean. It is suitable for use with standard diameter pencils.

The sharpener revolves: it can be turned inwards so that it does not leak graphite dust through the blade aperture. To empty the pencil shavings from the (very small) reservoir, simply swing the sharpener outwards and pull it off the main unit.

Milan Capsule

This simple Milan Capsule eraser and sharpener is a useful, clutter-free solution. Hidden under the cap at the one end is a soft synthetic rubber eraser, suitable for erasing a wide range of graphite marks. Flip one end to reveal the sharpener with a carbon steel blade, ideal for standard size graphite pencils and colour pencil. It also has a safety blade system which prevents the blade from becoming detached from the body of the pencil sharpener.


I expected a few things:

  • On rough or soft paper the graphite will tend to sink into the surface and be harder to lift.
  • Softer pencils will deposit more graphite or colour, which means more to erase.- In fact I found the opposite to be true; if the mark is more likely to smudge – a softer (darker) pencil – then it is easier to erase.
  • Harder pencils can make grooves in the paper which cannot be erased.- It turns out that the hardness makes it hard to erase even when lightly applied.

I learned a few things about erasers overall:

  • The more easily a graphite mark will smudge – the more easily it will erase. So no matter how lightly you draw with a hard pencil (6H) it will be harder to erase than a soft pencil (HB or 2B). From now on I will use a lightly applied softer pencil for any sketching that I wish to erase after watercolour or ink have been added.
  • Dark graphite and coloured pencil can best be removed by using two steps: press/lift with a putty rubber until no more will come off and then finish with a plastic or rubber eraser.
  • In general plastic erasers are similar. Except the dustless ones that I find difficult to use because of the lump of crumbs that builds up underneath the eraser.
  • Plastic erasers seem cleaner than rubber erasers because their crumbs are not as fine, the rubber eraser crumbs are so fine it is a bit harder to get rid of them all.
  • An electric eraser is a great tool for gentle erasing but you go through tips really fast.
  • I like the Mono Zero pin-point click erasers best of all the plastic erasers.
  • It is hard to erase graphite under a watercolour without damaging it. The best advice is to draw very faint lines you can barely see and when painted over they won’t show. Or let the graphite lines show a bit as part of the painting.
  • The firmest, but still usable (not hard as rubber so that you couldn’t ‘knead’ it) putty rubber was the Koh-i-noor. The softest but still usable (not gooey, so it won’t hold a shape) was the Faber-Castell. For most purposes of a putty rubber I would use one of these two. The Jackson’s and Derwent were also good putty rubbers.

My other conclusions are within each section of the article.

Video of the making of a plastic eraser

Click on the underlined link to go to the Erasers section of the Drawing Department on the Jackson’s Art Supplies website. Postage on orders shipped standard to mainland UK addresses is free for orders of £45.

Different Types of Erasers

Part of drawing is making mistakes.

(I’d probably argue with myself on that opening sentence.) Part of drawing is subtracting. (That’s probably more accurate.) Erasers are an inevitable part of the process of subtraction in drawing. I’m not going to discuss the many ways that erasers can be used to actually create the drawing in this article. Instead, I want to give you a run down of the different types of erasers and what they are generally used for.

A Rubber Eraser

A rubber eraser is the most common type of eraser out there. It can be found at the end of every #2 pencil. Rubber erasers are generally colored pink, although I have seen them available in all different types of colors. The Pink Pearl brand eraser is a standard for most artists.

It comes as a wedge shape and is colored pink. Rubber erasers are best suited for erasing pencil (graphite) on paper. It works by shedding itself as it lifts the pigment from the surface. Rubber erasers will not tear the paper unless they are used over-aggressively. Rubber erasers are also quite economical averaging from $.25 to $.50 a wedge.

Gum Erasers

Gum erasers are sometimes called art gum erasers. These erasers are also made of rubber, but are a softer version than rubber erasers. Gum erasers are very soft and tend to crumble as they erase.

If the integrity of the paper is a concern, then a gum eraser may be your best bet because they will not tear the paper even with aggressive rubbing. Gum erasers are best for erasing graphite on paper.

These erasers are usually brown in color and some are even semi-transparent. One negative aspect of gum erasers is that they don’t last very long. Because they crumble so easily, the life of the gum eraser is a short one. Gum erasers range in price from $.50 to $.75.

Kneaded Erasers

Kneaded erasers are very soft, pliable erasers that be formed and sculpted. They are a unique breed of eraser because of this feature. They work by lifting the pigment off of the surface. Because of this, kneaded erasers will not harm the surface. Because they are easy to form, kneaded erasers are particularly popular with artists.

Kneaded erasers become dirty as they erase but can be pulled and manipulated to clean them. They can even be washed. The standard color for kneaded erasers is gray, although I have seen them in all sorts of colors. Kneaded erasers are mostly used for graphite and charcoal. Kneaded erasers are best suited for charcoal.

These erasers are a bit more expensive than rubber erasers averaging in price from $1.00 to $2.50.

Vinyl or Plastic Erasers

Vinyl erasers are made of soft vinyl and are sometimes called plastic erasers. These erasers are the toughest of the bunch. If not used properly, they can easily tear paper. Vinyl erasers can erase almost anything including ink. Vinyl erasers are usually white and come in a variety of shapes.

Many draftsmen prefer vinyl erasers because of their ability to erase cleanly and completely. Vinyl erasers are fairly expensive, ranging in price from $2.00 – $5.00 depending on the brand.

Eraser Pencils or “Erasils”

Although the material used to create erasils is vinyl, I still think it necessary to mention them. Erasils are just erasers in a pencil form. They can sharpened just like a pencil for super precise erasing.

Because the eraser material is vinyl, they can damage the paper if not used gently. Erasils are becoming increasingly hard to find, but with a little search on the internet, you’re sure to find a place where they can be ordered.

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History of Eraser – Facts, Types and Invention

An eraser is an object used to remove pencil markings. It is known as “eraser” in the United States and Canada and as “rubber” in the UK, India, Ireland, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Erasers are made in different shapes, sizes and colors and from various materials. Cheaper ones are made of synthetic soy-based gum or synthetic rubber while those of higher quality can be made from vinyl, plastic, or gum-like materials.

People tried to correct mistakes they made while writing even before eraser was invented. To erase marks from the paper, they used tablets of rubber or wax. To remove ink from parchment or papyrus they used bits of rough stone like sandstone or pumice. In Japan, they used soft bread. It was not until 1770 that we found out that a natural rubber made from plants can be used as an eraser. That year, Edward Nairne, an English engineer, picked up a piece of rubber instead of breadcrumbs and discovered that rubber can erase pencil markings. He started selling rubber (until then known as “gum elastic” or “caoutchouc”). Name rubber came from “rubbing” and it was given to the object somewhere between 1770 and 1778. But this kind of eraser didn’t work too well: it crumbled when used and in time perished, it was too sensitive to weather conditions and, it smelled bad.

Solution to that problem came in 1839 when inventor Charles Goodyear invented the method of curing the rubber – vulcanization. This process made rubber more durable and allowed for the eraser to become a household item. Hymen Lipman patented an attaching of an eraser to the end of a pencil, but he later lost the license. Most common erasers are in block form or are placed at the end of the pencil for a quick and easy use. There are barrel or click erasers which are built like mechanical pens that have an eraser as a core instead of lead. Novelty erasers, which are modeled as other objects or figurines are often made from hard vinyl which does not erase too well.

Today we have erasers of different types, not just shapes. “Art gum erasers” are made of soft, coarse rubber and are excellent for erasing larger areas because they don’t damage the paper. The only problem is (as with old erasers) that they crumble why doing so and their residue has to be removed. This is often done with a broad brush. “Kneaded eraser”, or “putty rubber”, is used to remove graphite or charcoal from a surface by absorbing it. It does not leave behind eraser residue like art gum eraser, and because of the lasts longer, but it loses its efficacy and resilience because particles that it erases stay inside it. Kneaded eraser can be shaped into a fine point to erase small details; it can be shaped into a larger surface and work as a stamp, and it can work as a blotter to lighten a darker area covered with graphite. They cannot erase larger areas because they deform while rubbing. “Poster putty” looks like kneading eraser but it has much stronger lifting strength, and it erases the surface by lifting graphite from it. Because of the way it works it does not smudge or damage work in progress. In other regards, it works very similarly to kneaded eraser. Electric eraser is basically an eraser fastened to a rotor of a small electric motor. The motor rotates the eraser at a uniform speed which erases the surface with much less damage than with hand. Soft vinyl erasers are used for precision erasing because they can smear large areas. They are used on technical drawings where they clean better than standard erasers do.

Factis Extra Soft Eraser Review

I seem to have absent-mindedly purchased quite a few erasers from General Pencil’s Factis brand, so this week you’re getting another one from this manufacturer, the Factis Extra Soft Eraser! It has been a few weeks since I last posted a review on an eraser, let alone a review at all. I’ve been oddly busy getting ready to move, cleaning up the house to prepare to sell it, and just spending time with family. But I always come back to the blog because I love writing! So, let’s dive into the next eraser in my lineup!

Factis Extra Soft Eraser

The Factis Extra Soft Eraser has been floating around my dresser–yes, I’m using a dresser as a desk during the pandemic–for a few weeks now. I’ve always had it ready to go whenever I needed an eraser but I just recently put it up against my test of a wide range of graphite hardnesses for this review. I found that the Factis Extra Soft Eraser worked decently well when I used it for smaller jobs such as taking an appointment off my planner, cleaning up a stray pencil mark, or even clearing out a whole sentence. As usual, though, I wanted to see how it worked across a wide range of pencil hardnesses!

Before I dive into its performance, however, let’s talk about the eraser itself. The Factis Extra Soft Eraser is advertised as being one of the softest vinyl erasers on the market! I’m not sure how this is supposed to impact performance, but with how it’s performed so far, it seems to do so positively; at least on small jobs. It only costs about $1 for one eraser making it competitive with the ever-popular Pink Pearl. General Pencil advertises that the pencil is dust-free and achieves this by making the eraser clump its dust into a larger string of detritus rather than the tiny shavings you’re probably used to. It comes in a cardboard sleeve that helps you grip the eraser while it’s in use. Lastly, General Pencils states this eraser will be great at erasing pastels or charcoal making it a great addition to any artist’s array of erasers. 

To test the Factis Extra Soft Eraser, I threw it up against a range of lead hardnesses from 6B to 5H. I also tested it against colored pencils, crayons, and a variety of types of pens. Given its performance on standard smaller jobs in my day-to-day use, I was surprised to see how poorly the eraser performed across the range of pencil hardnesses. Each hardness had some residue left that was easily visible despite my attempts at getting it completely erased. Colored pencils and crayons also survived the onslaught with the crayon being slightly erased and the colored pencil being hardly removed. Lastly, pens were not touched at all, but this eraser is not advertised as working against pens. 

In terms of being dust-free, the Factis Extra Soft Eraser performed adequately in this regard. You can see from the picture that a few larger clumps were formed making for easy cleanup without having to deal with a dusty mess! Unfortunately, I don’t have any charcoal or pastels with which to test this eraser, so that test will have to wait for another day. 

Here is how the Factis Extra Soft Eraser stacks up against the others I’ve tested so far

Overall, the Factis Extra Soft Eraser performed adequately on smaller jobs but did not stand up to my full test with a range of pencil hardnesses. I have to say I was fairly disappointed by this result as it worked so well in my planner and notebooks on a sentence or a few words. I am glad that it clumped together while erasing as I find the dust annoying, but this is not a factor that will deter me from some erasers in the first place. I think for the cost, this eraser is worth it, but erasers such as the Sakura Sumo Grip and Factis Black 18 were similar in cost and performed much better. 

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links meaning I will get a small commission from your purchase if you do so using my link. I would greatly appreciate the support!

Eraser for drawing, how to choose and how to use

How to choose the right tool in the assortment of erasers, rubber bands and nags: First of all, we pay attention to the degree of hardness of the rubber. Here are the main types of painting correction tools I use myself:

Soft eraser – what you need for everyday work with any graphic materials (pencil, charcoal, pastel). Among other Chinese and European brands, I prefer the Milan-403 eraser.Such a giant eraser the size of a soap dish. From a large piece, cut into pieces. And the advantage of four hundred and three is soft rubber – it crumbles slightly on paper, but almost does not spoil the paper and almost does not smudge the drawing, in contrast to harder erasers.

Choose a hard eraser when you need to carefully erase or scratch the top layer of paper. For example, you will need a hard eraser to grout a drawing with colored pencils when soft erasers fail. You can also smear the drawing on the paper with a hard eraser for a painterly effect.

Hard eraser interspersed with sand Take to scratch off a layer of paper. With such an eraser, you can even scratch off the inscription with a ballpoint pen in a notebook or wipe the paper to the holes. With these erasers, one half usually comes with sand, the other half is just hard rubber.

Klyachka – is a special rubber, soft, like plasticine, which has the ability to remove a drawing by lightly touching the paper. Unlike an eraser, a gag is less likely to traumatize the paper. In my opinion, a nag is needed only when working with coal.

Eraser pencil is a pencil with an eraser in a wood shell instead of a lead. Designed for spot grouting, when you need to carefully erase a point in one square millimeter so as not to hurt the rest of the drawing. Of all the brands, I use a Faber-Castell pencil eraser that has red rubber on one side and white rubber on the other. The white half scratches slightly, so I use the red half.

* * *

Notes on the theory and technique of painting and drawing

Erasers – Five monkeys

All categories Markers – – Permanent markers – – Lacquer and decorative markers – – Industrial and special markers – – Markers for whiteboards – – Markers for glass and smooth surfaces (chalk markers) – – Fabric markers – – Markers for highlighting text – – Markers for writing on paper (for flipcharts) – – Markers for CD – – Markers for films (projectors) – – Water-based pigment markers – – Refill ink markers – – Markers for graphics and painting sets – – Markers for graphics and painting by the piece Pens – – Ballpoint pens – – Gel pens – – Capillary pens, liners – – Rollerball pens – – Write-and-erase pens – – Fountain pens – – Rapidographs, isographs and drawing pens – – Marker pens Paper and paper products – – Paper in sheets and rolls for drawing and sketching – – Albums, gluing and sketchbooks for drawing and sketching – – Notebooks, notebooks and diaries – – Millimeter paper – – Tracing paper – – Copy paper linen – – Self-adhesive labels – – Paper for office equipment – – Colored paper for office equipment and drawing – – Colored and crepe paper, cardboard for creativity – – Paper for notes – – Alphabet books, business card holders and card indexes – – Painting by numbers, coloring and applications – – Canvas and cardboard for painting – – STICKERS AND STICKERS Materials for modeling and modeling – – Plasticine – – Mass and dough for modeling and modeling – – Clay (paste) for modeling and modeling – – Plastic – – Tools for modeling, boards, stacks – – Sculptural plasticine Paints for painting, brushes – – Watercolors – – Gouache – – Acrylic art paints – – Oil paints – – Tempera paints – – Paints on glass and ceramics (stained glass) – – Paints on fabric – – Gel – – Finger paints – – Face painting, face and body paints, tattoos – – Acrylic spray paints – – Brushes, palette knives and organizers for brushes – – Auxiliaries for paints and brushes – – Palettes, containers for water, tr Scribbles and crayons – – Easels, sketchbooks, tablets and paint boxes Writing supplies for drawing and sketching – – Colored pencils – – Colored watercolor pencils and crayons – – Colored pastel pencils – – Special pencils, crayons and leads for fine arts – – Markers – – Air markers and stencils for them – – Special markers – – Wax crayons – – Oil pastels – – Dry pastels – – Charcoal, charcoal pencils – – Chalk – – Ink – – Gel crayons – – Black lead pencils – – Mechanical pencils, Collet pencils – – Leads for pencils – – Aids and tools for drawing and graphics – – Pencils by the piece Stationery – – Drawing supplies – – School haberdashery – – Calculators – – Paper trays and hoppers – – Glue – – Stationery and decorative adhesive tapes – – Proofreaders for text, erasers and sharpeners – – Stationery knives and scissors – – Stationery trivia – – Punchers, shapes hole punches – – Table stands, stands for books and papers – – Staplers, anti-staplers and staples – – Table coverings, rugs – – Boxes for keys, cash boxes and first aid kits – – Stamp products – – Counting material and teaching aids – – A KIT OF THE ACCESSORIES Demonstration equipment, whiteboards – – Magnetic whiteboards – – Flipcharts – – Chalk boards – – Cork and textile boards – – Planning boards – – Showcase boards – – Mobile boards – – Combined boards – – Mobile presentation stands (office partitions) – – Whiteboard accessories – – Projection screens – – Information stands – – Coasters, plaques and badges – – Glass marker boards – – Demonstration systems Lamination, binding – – Binder covers – – Laminated films – – Roll laminated films – – Self-adhesive film – – Plastic springs for binding – – Metal springs for binding Folders and archiving systems – – Files and file folders – – Folders with ar internal mechanism – – Binders and mechanisms for binder – – Folders-corners – – Folders-envelopes with a button and a zipper – – Covers for diaries, notebooks and textbooks – – Folders with a clip – – Folders-briefcases – – Folders with elastic bands – – Folders on rings – – Dividers – – Tablets Products for the holiday – – Candles for serving – – Balloons – – Products for table setting – – Carnival and festive products – – Packaging for gifts Household goods

Search 90,000 what kind of fabric, composition, types and properties, benefits, care

Author Oksana Nikitina Reading 5 min.Views 225

When trying to describe the eraser fabric, many people confuse it with knitwear because of its supposed high elasticity and stretch ability. In fact, this material does not stretch and has nothing to do with knitted fabrics. Today we will tell you about it in detail so that no one else has a similar error. An eraser is called a cotton cloth woven with a satin weave of threads, which looks very similar to satin. However, there are differences, and they are significant.

Cloth eraser what is it. Photo

What kind of fabric

To understand what an eraser is and why it is so good, imagine a dense, silky-to-the-touch fabric, consisting almost entirely of natural plant (cotton) raw materials. Traditionally, the material is used to make clothes for children or adults, bed linen, and other types of textiles for the home and interior.

A little historical information

The name of the fabric is consonant with the name of the school eraser – “eraser” and with other textile material elastic.It is according to such associations that the consumer presents a stretching, elastic canvas. However, in fact, the matter received this name not at all because of the eraser rubber bands and not because of the property of rubber or rubber fibers to stretch strongly (which are not in the composition at all).

In English the word is spelled lasting, translation into Russian is “lasting”, and this is the main characteristic quality of the described material. In contrast, for example, from the same ribana, with which the eraser is often confused, and which, like any jersey, really stretches well.


In order to accurately imagine what kind of fabric such an eraser, we offer a detailed description. It is a smooth, durable, pleasant to the touch textile with an even surface. According to its characteristics, it corresponds to any 100% cotton fabric: hygroscopic, environmentally friendly, hypoallergenic and safe for health.


Another name for the eraser is semi-satin, and all because it is based on a satin weave of threads, and outwardly the material resembles satin. But, unlike him, the described fabric is woven in a slightly different way.Eraser weave – smooth covering the front surface along the warp. Satin is filled with weft fibers.

The classic composition of the eraser fabric is 100% cotton, but today artificial or synthetic fibers can be added (a small amount). Manufacturing technology of high-quality linen requires compulsory mercerization. For this, the finished fabric is treated with a solution of a caustic substance – sodium, and then repeatedly washed in water of different temperatures.This procedure makes the fabric more durable, denser, but soft and silky. In addition, mercerization increases the color fastness of the canvases.

Now that you know how to make and what the eraser is made of, it’s time to get acquainted with the types of fabric.

Types and their properties

In general, the types of erasers are distinguished only on the basis of the design of the finished textile. Since the fabric is almost always made only from natural cotton, there is no division by composition. The way of weaving the threads is also the same.So, a cotton eraser is:

  • Plain dyed . As a rule, canvases of the same color are produced more often and therefore are more common.
  • Padded . Models of fabrics with drawings or fashionable photo printing are not so in demand and are less common on the shelves.

There is also a division into shaped eraser and jacquard eraser. The first differs in that it has a pattern of pronounced longitudinal satin stripes. The second is a large-scale characteristic drawing, again against a satin background.


The advantages of the described textiles are directly related to the raw materials from which they are produced. Let’s list the main advantages:

  • during production, practically no synthetic fibers are added to the fabric and do not use aggressive chemicals, therefore it is safe for health;
  • 100% cotton (or, in rare cases, a small amount of synthetics) provide good breathability, lightness, hypoallergenic products;
  • Despite its high strength, the fabric itself is thin, almost imperceptible when worn, soft;
  • is distinguished by a high degree of hygroscopicity: it can absorb up to 30% of sweat, but it will not get wet;
  • retains heat well and regulates the temperature, in summer it is not hot in things made from an eraser, and in winter it is not cold;
  • retains its shape for a long time, is strong and resistant to tears, mechanical damage, withstands repeated washing.


There are not so many disadvantages of the eraser, but they are. Clothing details made of such fabric are rather difficult to sew: the material crumbles heavily. In addition, it is important to choose the correct thickness of the needles used so as not to disrupt the fiber structure.

Scope of application

As mentioned above, the main application of the eraser fabric is sewing a variety of women’s, men’s and children’s clothing. For example, shirts, tops, shirts, dresses, skirts, blouses, tracksuits, sundresses and other lightweight items.

In addition, home textiles are often sewn from the eraser: sets and individual items of bedding, napkins, thin curtains, tablecloths, capes.


The described canvases are no more demanding in care than any cotton fabrics. If the manufacturer’s instructions do not suggest anything else, then the basic rules are as follows.

Washing can be done either by hand or in a typewriter at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C. Bleach only with special gentle substances, without chlorine.You can squeeze out both in a typewriter and manually. Dry under natural conditions, in an upright position, having carefully straightened beforehand. Drying inside the machine is permissible with the appropriate mode.

Ironing is preferable from the inside out, slightly moistened beforehand. Suitable for cotton fabrics. Store folded, preferably in special bags (paper) with good ventilation.

Eraser – durable, comfortable fabric, suitable for sewing a variety of clothes.It retains its shape for a long time, tolerates numerous washings and, with proper care, will last for years.

Dear readers of the Tkan.Club website, if you have any questions on this topic, we will be happy to answer them.

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