Drawing ink pen nibs: drawing pen nibs at Jerry’s Artarama

Fountain Pen Sketching Part 7: Pens with variable lines 2


Welcome to the final part of my current series of Fountain Pen Sketching where I will be sharing about my second favourite pen and much more!

If you missed it, in Part 6, I introduced the types of pens which give some good line variation and looked specifically at flex nibs and brush tip pens. Now I want to look at calligraphy nibs – stub, parallel and fude.  I will also be referring to these terms – pen angle, nib angle, nib tilt and pressure – which were explained in Part 6.

These three types of calligraphy nibs have different designs which result in different methods of sketching. The more you understand about each pen the more you can get out of it.

Calligraphy Stub Nibs – Lamy Joy

Current List Price* ~$28-36
Full Range at Goulet Pens here
Special ‘Liz Steel Packaged Set’  including a calligraphy nib and a standard nib here

Well, you all know by now that I am completely addicted to using my White Joy for drawing, but that is with a standard style nib, not the calligraphy stub nib that the pen comes with.

There are many other brands of calligraphy pens/nibs and Goulet make their own which can fit into a number of different pens including the Noodlers Konrad or Ahab (video explaining that here). So although I have photographed my Joys (the Black Joy and the AL Joy) my comments are relevant to any brand of stub nib.

Stub nibs are designed to be used so that the full edge of the nib is on the paper. If you tilt the nib  the slit (where the ink comes out) will not touch the page resulting in no line! But if you vary the angle of the nib in relation to the direction of the stroke you are drawing, the thickness of the line with vary.

Understanding the relationship between the nib angle and the direction of stroke is the key to using a stub nib. And the really exciting part happens when you draw a curved line – you will get beautiful ‘calligraphic’ variation without doing anything! I know this is fairly obvious to a lot of people, but sometimes being reminded of basic principles can really open your mind up to new possibilities.

So you can pick up a calligraphy nib and just draw normally and you will get some lovely varied lines. However if you want to control which lines are thick and which are thin you need to be more deliberate  about your nib angles eg. change to a sideways grip and pull the nib across the page horizontally to get a broad horizontal.

I like using either the 1.1 or 1.5 size. but 1.1 is my preference as I can write normally with it as well. But which nib size will suit you depends on how thick you want your lines. Here is a quick comparison I did the other morning while waiting for my coffee.

The major limitation with using a stub nib is getting a consistent thin line for anything other than a straight line… and this is where the parallel pen comes in handy.

Calligraphy Parallel Nib – Pilot Parallel Pen

Current List Price* ~$10
Full Range at Goulet Pens here

The Pilot Parallel is a very cool pen in which the nib is delivered in between two parallel plates. The great advantage for sketching is that you can draw on the corner of the nib and get a consistent crisp line as the ink comes out of the corner of the nib exactly the same as it does from the centre.

Now, I could have done an example with a 1.5mm parallel pen so that you would have a useful comparison with the stub… but instead I have done my pen test with the 3.8mm which gives me very crisp fine lines and crazy broad strokes. For some reason this is the size of Parallel Pen that just does it for me – not a complicated reason but it just feels right.

If I am are not careful with the position/tilt of the nib I can end up with some crazy lines – hey, why be careful – these lines are wonderful! So this size parallel pen gives me great thin lines, great broad strokes, crazy random lines and not much in between.

UPDATE: How could I have missed mentioning this initially… one of the VERY cool things about the Pilot Parallel pen is the hack to convert it to a ‘folded pen’.

Check out this video by Parkablogs – maybe something for me to do over the Xmas break

I first bought this pen after to seeing the great work of my friend Josu Maroto a number of years ago but it has been neglected of late. I think I will get back to using it as I love the dramatic effects it creates. Here is a comparison with some other nibs (click to enlarge).

Fude (Bent Calligraphy) Nibs

These are my favourite variable line pens and if I could only have 2 pens it would be my White Joy and my Green Sailor – but I will discuss the fude nib design in general before looking at the various pen options.

The fude nib is bent upwards to create a wedge shape tip (as per diagram above) and the basic principle is that changing the pen angle will change the thickness. Fine lines can be achieved by holding the pen vertically and using the tip. As you lower the angle of the pen the line will get thicker because more of the wedge is on the page.

The thickest stroke is achieved by dragging the nib sideways. Like a standard nib you can get even finer lines by drawing with the nib upside down.

There is not as much calligraphic variation (thick to thin) within a single curved stroke as you get from a stub or parallel nib but this means that it is easy to get a fairly uniform thickness which is handy for sketching. I am interested in exploring whether I can achieve calligraphic variation by changing my pen angle in a single stroke – at the moment this pen movement is a little challenging!

Fude nibs have a tendency to leave a nice bead of ink at the end of the stroke and this is particularly the case with the Sailor pens due to a lesser ink flow.

Using a fude nib involves mastering a completely different hand movement to the other nibs – one of changing the pen angle depending on the thickness of line you want to achieve. Surprisingly. I find that this is more intuitive for me than increasing the pressure as with a flex nib.

However, one interesting feature of my own use of fude nibs is that because my natural pen angle is 45 degrees, I end up with sketches with thicker lines than normal. This doesn’t bother me as I love ink drawings but they are a lot heavier! Drawing with a more vertical pen angle is just not instinctive to my loose drawing style – more about this at the end.

So how does fude compare with flex?
What I have discovered is that a fude pen with the expressive marks (caused by the shading and beads at the end of the strokes) and the greater variation in width suits my strong rapid architectural lines better than a flex pen. When I use a flex pen I feel the need to slow down and this really doesn’t suit my lines – particularly when I am sketching architecture. Possibly other subject matter with more curved lines would be different. The best way for me to use flex at the moment is to sketch with a continuous line which seems to allow me to respond with pressure better.

Ok, now onto the different pen options…

Hero and Duke Pens

Approx price: from $5 on ebay or Amazon.

Search for ‘Bent nib’

Using a fude nib for sketching was something that came to my attention thanks to the Urban Sketchers in Singapore – they mainly use Hero or Duke pens. These pens are made in China, are very affordable but the quality can be patchy- but I haven’t had any problems with any of mine. They are readily available on ebay or Amazon. All these pens have nibs with an upturn of 55 degrees – the greater the upturn the thicker the line.

The two most popular models are the M86 and the 578 models. The M86 is one of the more lightweight Hero pens (it is still a solid pen) and even though I am very sensitive to pen weight, I find that the tapered design sits comfortably in my hand.

The Hero 578 (not 576 as per my handwriting!) pen has a bigger nib (more variation!) but is a much heavier pen. I really like the nib in this pen!

The Duke 209 is a much lighter pen and most popular is a stainless steel model which I found was very slippery to hold. I managed to find this black version on eBay, and as I often hold my pen in the barrel section, it is much better to use. The word on the street is that the quality of the Duke pens is better than the Hero pens – but please let me know if you have a different experience.

I haven’t used this pen a great deal  but the flow is great and the nib very smooth.

There is also the Duke 551 Confucius Compound Art Pen with a huge upturn to the nib (oh ah!) but the pen body is massive and very heavy so just not an option for me – if I could find a lightweight pen to put this nib into I would!

The main issue with the Hero pens for me is simply pen weight so I have gravitated to the Sailor version.
However, Cathy Johnson recently reminded me that she puts a Hero nib inside a Noodler’s Nib Creaper (details and step by step here, here and here) so I just did that yesterday and am excited about giving it a go!

For more about the different Fude Pens see Parka’s comparison
A short video by Cathy Johnson showing some marks

Sailor Fude Pens

Approximate price: from $10 on Amazon  here or here

Sailor have a number of different pens with fude nibs:

  • My First Fountain Pen – link to Parkablog review
  • Sailor Profit Fude De Mannen fountain pen – link to Tina Koyama’s review. This was the first Sailor Pen I bought but haven’t included it as it has the same nib as the Green Sailor.
  • Sailor Fude de Mannen 45 degrees – Blue
  • Sailor Fude de Mannen 55 degrees – Green
  • There is also a gold nib version… sigh! I am not going to make any further statement about that but will wait till Tina adds something about it in the comment section!

The Sailor pen is much lighter in weight and has a lovely long barrel. Not only for the reasons of comfort, but I feel that a lighter pen makes my strokes looser! This is the main reason why I use Sailor over Hero or Duke.

The Sailor pens don’t seem to be as smooth or have as good a flow of ink as the Hero/Duke pens. Parka in the above review demonstrates this, and honestly I had real trouble getting my Green Sailor to work initially. I was using Noodlers Bulletproof Ink at the time and decided to just bite the bullet and start using the pen even though it was not giving me consistent lines. I ended up liking these expressive hit and miss lines a lot as you can see in the above Penang sketch (click on image to enlarge). However once I replaced the Noodlers with De Atramentis Document ink the pen just started flowing beautifully – it was amazing what a difference the ink made! I have subsequently acquired a few more sailor pens and they have worked perfectly for day one filled with De Atramentis.

There is a controlled flow of ink through the feed resulting in lines with a lot of shading and dark beading at the end of every stroke- ie. black ink is more translucent –  the lines dry quickly! This is not a big deal for me – in fact I LOVE variation in ink as it makes the lines alive and more expressive.

The nib is more sharply bent than the Hero and Duke pens – does this affect the flow and the quality of the line?

Sailor has the option of a 45 degree nib which produces finer lines. To date I have prefer working with the 55 degree – but I am going to revisit the 45 degrees in the next month or so to see investigate further how the different angle affects my options. My initial thought is that it will help to make the ‘normal’ line in fude sketches less heavy… but more about that later!

The feed is positioned close to the bend in the nib which means if you use the pen at a shallow angle you might get an extra line from the feed. This is very annoying, but I rarely notice it when I am sketching with the 55 degree nib – it seems to be more of an issue with the 45 degree and mainly only when I am doing test drawings or writing. Yesterday I decided to pull the nib and feed out and adjust the position of the feed so that this doesn’t happen but there might be an impact on the flow- so I will keep you posted.

So in summary, on paper the Sailor pens don’t look as good as the Hero or Dukes… but honestly they work great for me and I just love my Green Sailor! The Duke 209 is probably the best option – but I am very keen to hear other people’s recommendations! I know that a lot of my Asian USK friend know a lot more on this topic than I do… but I hope what I know from my own personal experience has been of some use.

As well there are a lot of other fancy nibs that I could explore (including the $3600AUD King of Pens that I played with earlier in the year – no, only joking!) but the ones I have included are the most popular amongst my sketching friends. Of course I have a list of a few more pens to test next year!

This series has become somewhat more involved that I initially planned – like any Liz-project! In fact, preparing these posts  has become akin to what I do for my online SketchingNow courses. I have spent a lot of time thinking about pens and lines and trying to dig deeper to really understand line variations a better. It has been so much fun!

A few personal ‘takeaways’

So to finish up I just want to share a few thoughts that have really crystallized for me while preparing this series, and a few things that I want to explore further in my own work in 2016.

  • Oh! A new appreciation of how much I love the flow of ink on the paper (I haven’t mentioned this since Part 2)
  • Related to the liquid nature of the ink, I have been reminded of how little pressure I have to apply to get a line – just touch the page and let the ink flow!
  • Clarification of two kinds of line variation (variation of one stroke in relation to the next vs variation within the stroke itself) has made me realise that I have been focusing more on the first kind, so now want to become more serious about the second. This ties in with the wonderful ideas I gleaned from Melanie Reim’s workshop in Singapore. I really want to explore calligraphy strokes more.
  • I have reminded myself of how much variation you can get in a standard ‘basic’ pen nib – am I really getting the most of out my White Joy?
  • I want to continue using my flex nibs and add the ability to adjust pressure as I draw each stroke into my repertoire.
  • Fude nibs are still my favourite ‘expressive’ nibs but I want to adjust the pen angle more when I draw, to get more variation within each stroke and give the 45 degree nib a serious workout!
  • And finally, I seriously want to look after my pens better. I have realised how much better they work after a clean (what a surprise) so I want to work on a realistic clean strategy.

Anyway, I feel as if I have just laid the foundation for more future explorations into the wonderful world of fountain pen sketching! Thank you all so much for following along with me and I would love to hear what next you would like to know!

And my final word of advice for you all:

Don’t worry about buying the ‘perfect’ pen – just pick up one you have (give it a good clean if it needs it) and start using it! 

Let the ink start flowing and start building a relationship with it.   Learn to love your pen because when your pen becomes an extension of you, your work can start to flow out of you more freely.

Once you have a fountain pen you will have to start drawing with it!
If you would like to learn the fundamentals and the start urban sketching please check out my Foundations online course.

Subscribe to my mailing list for my monthly newsletters for first news of new courses and face to face workshops in Australia (and overseas!)

10 Best Calligraphy Nibs Reviewed & Rated in 2021

The difference between the best calligraphy nibs and the bad ones is the nib. Try doing calligraphy with a lousy nib, and you will realize how tricky it is. Good nibs are essential because they hold and dispense the ink for smooth and even writing. You can create clean lines and strokes if you are using good-quality nibs.

Now there are a lot of different calligraphy nibs for beginners and experts out there. With the various options sold in the market, you might find yourself overwhelmed. Don’t worry, though, because this article will help you narrow down your choices to the ones that will provide you with the results that you are looking for.

Top 10 Calligraphy Nib Reviews

1. Trustela Calligraphy Nibs

If you are looking for inexpensive dip pen nibs for writing, this Trustela calligraphy nib set should be a good choice. It comes complete with 18 different dip pen nibs with different styles and sizes that offer more flexibility and variety. There are calligraphy pens, quill pens, fountain pen nibs and many more. If you plan on using the nibs not only for calligraphy but also for other purposes such as drawing, this would be a good choice.

One gripe I have about these calligraphy dip pen nibs is that there aren’t a lot of options for calligraphy. Many are more suitable for drawing, which can be a big letdown if you are only buying it for calligraphy purposes. It’s hard to use the others for calligraphy because they are stiff and aren’t that forgiving.

I do like how well-made these nibs are. They are beautifully crafted and even come with nice sturdy packaging. The nibs are placed in individual slots, so you can still stay organized. It’s very easy to lug around. The packaging is quite portable. I can just stash it in my bag for future purposes.

These nibs are easy to install in calligraphy pens. They can be attached to pens without using a lot of force. You can also take them out without having a hard time.

When you first have these nibs, make sure you wash them with soapy water first. They have a protective coating to prevent them from being damaged, so if you use them right away, they will not hold a lot of ink. But once you wash the protective coating away, they should pick up ink easily.

The nibs do hold a lot of ink. I could write an entire sentence without having to dip in ink again. I also did not experience any kind of clogging. That is one great thing about these dip style pens. You can use different kinds of ink.

They are quite comfortable to write with. I experienced very little snag on paper. You do have to try it on different kinds of papers though just to see which one is the best fit.


  • Can hold just enough ink
  • Can last for a long time
  • A lot of nibs options
  • Good packaging
  • Beautifully made


  • Many of the nibs are better for drawing
  • Need to wash the nibs first so they can hold more ink
I would recommend this to beginners. It seems to be more of a beginner set. Additionally, if you are an artist looking for calligraphy pen nibs that also work for drawing, this set is also a good option for you.

2. Nikko Mange Pen Nib N-Gpen

The Nikko G Nibs are some of the best nibs today. They won’t disappoint you because of their overall quality. This set comes with three different types of nibs, which are great not only for calligraphy but also for drawings. You can use them with oblique pens or straight pens and still get consistent results. The nibs worked well with my oblique and straight pens andI was able to install them with ease.

These pen nibs do come with some manufacturer’s grease though. I would suggest sticking them in a potato first and leaving them there for a few minutes to remove the grease. After that, wipe them clean. They will work wonderfully.

I would say these are some of the top-rated calligraphy dip pen nibs because of how well they hold ink. They hold a large ink volume unlike others I have tried. I didn’t have to keep on dipping because these nibs worked fine. They dispensed uniform levels of ink, so I didn’t have issues with the ink fading while completing a sentence. I also like that the ink came off easily when I wiped one nib with tissue paper. I have tried using different kinds of ink and so far, all of them worked with this nib.

The nibs are more on the stiff side. As a beginner, I still think these nibs are easy to use. It does need to take some time to get used to them, so make sure you manage your expectations. Once you get the hang of these, you will find them the best nibs for calligraphy. They write smoothly. I can also see this set being very useful for artists. It can be a good drawing or sketching nib set as well.

It is not without downsides, though. Although it’s easy to use, I usually need to put more pressure on my strokes to get a better control of the nib. To me, it’s not a big deal. However, it might cause hand fatigue if you keep using pressure on your hands.

The fact that these nibs hold up well against a lot of damage compensates largely for this flaw though. I would rather get nibs that will not turn rusty or will not dull out easily. These nibs are not disappointing in that area.


  • Great for beginners
  • Works well with different inks
  • Doesn’t dull out or get rusty easily
  • Ink comes off easily after cleaning the nibs
  • Holds a good amount of ink


  • Needs to put more pressure to get the strokes you want

These nibs are a must-have for beginner to intermediate calligraphy artists. Although you aren’t getting a wide selection of nibs, these are basic nibs that can get you started in doing calligraphy. Consider getting them if you prefer that your nibs are durable and are able to hold a lot of ink.

3. Speedball 30710 10 Pen Nib Assorted

Much has been said about this company when it comes to making the right nibs for modern calligraphy. They are known for their high-quality nibs and this one isn’t an exception. This affordable set comes with 10 different types of nibs. It comes with 2 A-style, 5 B-style and 3 C-style pen nibs.

One of the A-style pen nibs included in this feature a square tip and flat tip. This is perfect for making poster letterings. If you do gothic calligraphy, this will be a good option as well. It can also be used to create borders and would be a perfect fit for making nice flourishes on your calligraphy design.

Use the B-style pen nibs to create straight lines. These nibs have fine tips so they are perfect for making Roman gothic letterings. Get the C-style pen nibs if you want to add more accents to your drawings and write italic letters.

With such a good selection of nibs, you probably don’t need anything else. If you are just starting out, these nibs would be a good training ground.

They are made from high-grade stainless-steel materials that you know will last for a long time. However, I do find some of the nibs slightly scratchy. I would suggest getting thick paper when using these nibs because they may scratch the surface of the paper and scrape off bits and pieces, which can get annoying. I didn’t have such problems with thick paper.

The nibs have engravings that will be easier for users to identify each nib. It’s easier to stay organized.

Besides, the nibs hold just the right amount of ink. I found out that if you heat up the tips with fire from a lighter for a few seconds, they glide better on the surface of the paper.

Last but not least, these nibs hold up well against frequent usage. They don’t dull out easily.


  • Assorted nibs
  • Nibs come with labels
  • Great for drawing and calligraphy
  • Easy to carry anywhere
  • Inexpensive


  • Might not work well on thinner paper
  • Some of the nibs tend to be scratchy

I like these nibs because of the variety they bring to the table. While this set is not without issues, it’s easy to overlook them because of how good the quality is. These nibs are not only great for beginners but also for intermediate and expert calligraphy artists who are looking for reliable nibs that will not turn rusty easily.

4. Brause Rose 76 Nib

These Brause nibs are classic style nibs. This set will give you 3 nibs. I think that’s very affordable. If you plan on building up your nibs and calligraphy collection, you can add these to your arsenal.

I like the color of the nibs. These are silver elastic nibs, so I did not have to worry about them looking too dirty and grimy easily. These nibs are of only one style though. If you damage or lose one, you still have the other two to use.

What I really like about these nibs is their flexibility. Some people claim these nibs are challenging to work with because they are stiff, but I think these are among the softest ones. They don’t scratch the surface of the paper, which is great if you are not using thick paper. I find that they work best on cardstock and other stiff paper though, just like all other calligraphy nibs.

Because the nibs are softer, they tend to be easier to control. If you are a beginner, you will like how easy these are to use. I did have issues getting the ink to flow at first. It seems to work better with thin ink. If you use thick ink, it won’t flow that easily.

What I did was to stick the nibs in a potato for a few minutes just to get rid of the grease that is still on them. When using them for the first time, press the tines and hold them together to activate the ink and get it flowing. That did the trick for me.

Get this flex dip pen nib set if you prefer making thicker strokes. The size of the nibs is perfect for thicker letterings such as when making posters or cards. However, these nibs can still do thin strokes perfectly.

I like how long-lasting these nibs are. Even after frequent use, the nibs do not dull out and turn rusty. They don’t bend easily as well even if you accidentally drop them or they get squished in your bag. I also like the clear case they came with, where I can safely store the nibs.


  • Flexible nibs
  • Easy to use for beginners
  • Ideal for large strokes and letterings
  • Holds a lot of ink
  • Allows more control


  • Not very compatible with thick ink
  • Might be a little bit difficult to get the ink flowing

It’s hard not to like these nibs. They are compatible with flexible calligraphy pens because the nibs are also flexible and forgiving. It’s hard to find any softer nibs, so if you are looking for a suitable one, take a look at these nibs.

5. Speedball Calligraphy Pen Nibs

These nibs are very versatile. You can use them to make Roman letterings, italics, black letters and many more. These are a part of the C-series from the brand, so you know that they can go a long way in creating different styles of letterings. You can use these nibs for B-type pen holders.

Made from stainless steel, these are some of the most durable nibs I have ever used. I have used a lot of nibs but these ones really hold up well against damage. I use them a lot but they still look like new.

They have a lot of that manufacturer’s grease when I first got my hands on them and they were quite tricky to remove. Use the potato trick a few times to completely remove the grease.

I like that it holds ink well. Sometimes, despite getting globs of ink, I was able to control that quickly. After a while, there weren’t any ink dispensing issues. I don’t have to keep on dipping when writing, which saves me a lot of time and trouble.

Because these are more flexible, I find that they can work on different paper surfaces. I also like that I can use these nibs for a long time and won’t have to suffer from hand fatigue because they are more flexible and don’t require a lot of pressure.

On the other hand, these are a little difficult to use if you are writing thin lines. I don’t recommend these nibs when adding more details to drawings because they can be tricky to use. However, they do create good thick strokes, and they are great for letterings and similar projects.


  • Can withstand wear and tear
  • Holds and dispenses ink well
  • Great price
  • Works on different surfaces
  • Doesn’t require a lot of hand pressure


  • Not that great in writing thin lines

You won’t regret getting these nibs. They are not very picky when it comes to what kind of paper you can use, so even if you are using regular paper, they will still work. I believe these are beginner-friendly nibs because of how flexible they are. You will enjoy learning how to do calligraphy with these nibs. And because they are made from high-quality materials, they will last for a long time, thereby offering you more money savings.

6. Zebra Comic G Model Chrome Pen Nib

If you are looking for some great nibs for copperplate, have a look at these ones. This set comes with 10 different types of nibs. It’s a product of Japanese technology, so you can be assured that these nibs are really among the most well-made out there.

What I love about these nibs is their flexibility. They are not very rigid. I would say they have a medium flexibility, which is why they are great for beginners. They are great for a variety of purposes, not just calligraphy. Try using them for drawing and they will blow your mind. You might never want to go back to traditional means again.

These nibs feature ebonite feeds. I find that they are easier to set because of this material. They did require a bit of breaking in because some of the nibs can be rough. However, once you break them in, they can glide smoothly. They are not very scratchy and I did not have any issues about the tips collecting fibers.

You do need to get used to dipping the nibs in ink if you are a beginner. Anyway, they can dispense ink evenly. If you are making thin strokes, a light pressure will do. If you want a wider line or thicker strokes, press them down more. They also have chrome platings, which make it easier to use these nibs confidently.

These nibs seem to be long-lasting. They have been with me for a long time but they haven’t shown signs of wear and tear yet. They are also easy to clean. You can wash or wipe them, whatever works better for you. They don’t turn rusty easily even with frequent use.

I also like the clear case. It’s compact and it makes keeping the nibs in place easier. Other products don’t come with a case, so it’s good that I didn’t have to buy one for these nibs.


  • Highly flexible nibs
  • Not difficult to get used to
  • Dispenses ink evenly
  • Ebonite feeds for easier setting
  • Does not scratch the paper
  • Easier to use due to chrome plating

These are value-for-your-money nibs. They are not very expensive considering you are getting 10 types of nibs in one set. Beginners aren’t the only ones who will find these nibs a great choice. Even professionals looking for nibs that can last for a long time will love them. If you want more variety and you want to expand your nib collection, you can try getting these. They are great training nibs that will help you master calligraphy.

7. LAMY Joy Calligraphy Nib 1.5

At first, this calligraphy nib seems off-putting because of its industrial look. Others might mistake it for a tool or something. However, it serves its function well, so I was able to overlook my initial dislike for its design.

This is a 1.5 calligraphy nib. Get this only if you are looking for nibs that will help you get thicker letterings and better control over your penmanship. It’s really not for everyday writing, so if you are looking for a nib that will help you do just that, this isn’t the right choice for you. I think this is great for making posters or for doing big letterings on cards. You can also use this to write beautiful calligraphy on welcome placards.

Don’t attempt making thin strokes with this nib. It just won’t work for that purpose. I have gone through so many frustrations trying to control it to give me thin strokes. It’s very similar to using chisel tips with markers.

What really drew me to this nib is how smoothly it writes on paper. It’s not scratchy at all. It doesn’t chafe the surface of the paper and collects fibers. It’s not very flexible though. If you are a beginner, you might find this too stiff for your needs. It also requires some breaking in. You need to remove the grease on it using the potato trick as well.

I had a hard time getting the ink to flow at first. You need to press the nibs down hard to make the ink flow. If you are using it for the first time, this is what you should do to break it in.

It’s compatible with most of the pens that I have used. You shouldn’t have problems using it with the pens that you have. Additionally, the nibs are sturdy and can withstand a lot of usage. The stainless-steel material is quite impervious to damage.

These are value-for-your-money nibs. They are not very expensive considering you are getting 10 types of nibs in one set. Beginners aren’t the only ones who will find these nibs a great choice. Even professionals looking for nibs that can last for a long time will love them. If you want more variety and you want to expand your nib collection, you can try getting these. They are great training nibs that will help you master calligraphy.


  • Writes smoothly
  • Can make thick strokes
  • Fits with standard calligraphy pens
  • Crisp and beautiful penmanship


  • A little stiff
  • Industrial look

Although this nib doesn’t look as good as the other nibs, it functions well and that is what really matters. If you are looking for a nib that you can use for making thick letterings and strokes, you should consider getting this one. It’s really meant for thicker lines and strokes. It’s an inexpensive option for those who are on a budget.

8. MyLifeUnit Tachikawa Comic G Nib

You can’t go wrong with Japanese nibs. They are just some of the most durable ones out there. This set has gained a cult following because of how well-designed the nibs are. It comes with three beautiful nibs. They are made from good quality stainless steel that doesn’t get grimy and dull out easily.

These nibs are very pointed. I find them so easy to control. I can easily make thin and thick strokes because of the pointed nibs.

I would suggest heating up the tips for a few seconds with a lighter first. This will allow the nibs to hold more ink. Ever since doing this trick, there haven’t been any issues with the ink. I could write long sentences without pausing to dip the nibs again.

I like how smoothly these nibs write. I can barely feel the nibs scratching the paper. They are not very picky as well when it comes to what kind of paper you can use. I still prefer using thick paper but if you are using low-quality thin paper, they can still work.

Aside from calligraphy, these nibs also work great for drawing and sketching. They can make fine lines and small details because of their pointed tips.

Even without using a lot of pressure, these nibs still write fairly well. They dispense ink evenly and I did not have problems with lines breaking off.

Like most calligraphy nibs, these ones have a small learning curve. You can use these nibs as a beginner but you also need to figure out how to use them. My only gripe is that for three nibs, they are a bit more expensive than other brands with the same kind and number of nibs. I think the price is justified though. These are durable nibs anyway, so even if they are pricey, they are still worth buying.


  • Writes smoothly
  • Holds ink well
  • Can write thin lines
  • No annoying scratching sound
  • Has flexible and pointy tips
  • Fits pens well


  • Slightly more pricey than others

These are some of the best nibs I have ever tried. I would recommend them for all sorts of calligraphists and artists. They are great for lettering and drawing. These are the kinds of nibs that you can’t go wrong with because they do their jobs well and they last for a long time.

This is one beautiful nib. If you are looking for extra fine nibs with especially sharp tips, this is a perfect option. It’s not the cheapest single nib out there though. I was initially put off with the price because of how expensive it is but after giving it a go, I can say that it is well worth it.

What I like about this nib is that it doesn’t need any kind of preparation. With other nibs, you still need to stick them in a potato and heat up the tips to ensure it can hold ink. I didn’t do any of that with this nib and it still worked well. It can hold a lot of ink and dispense it evenly, too. I can write continuously and without dealing with big globs of ink coming out of it. It just seems to know how much ink to dispense.

I like this nib because of the flexibility of the tip as well. It’s very beginner-friendly but experts will appreciate the slight softness of the tip as well. It offers me flexibility when it comes to the kinds of strokes I can do. I can easily do thin strokes by just putting a light pressure on it and thick strokes by applying more pressure.

The tips glide so smoothly on paper. It doesn’t have the annoying scratchiness of cheaper nibs, which I appreciate. I think that more than makes up for the price of this nib.

The material is resistant to rust and corrosion as well. I’ve had this nib for some time but it’s still in its original condition. I just wipe the excess ink down and it comes right off. I’m sure this will last for many more years. Even when you put more pressure on it, I know it will still resist wear and tear.


  • Flexible nibs
  • Can write thick and thin strokes
  • Easy to use
  • Glides smoothly
  • Doesn’t need preparation

This nib is worth the money you spend on it, if you ask me. Get this if you are looking for a nib that does its job well and more. I wasn’t disappointed with how well it writes on paper – as smooth as butter. It’s hard to find that quality in other nibs. Others are just too scratchy. And the fact that it holds a lot of ink even without doing any major preparation makes it a winner in my book.

10. LAMY Joy Calligraphy Nib 1.1

I also initially shied away from this nib because of the price. This metal nib can set you back by a few dollars more than the other nibs in this list. Furthermore, it only comes with one nib instead of a set. If you lose it or damage it, you will have to buy another one.

On the other hand, it delivers a lot of benefits. First, this nib has a utilitarian look. It’s a very versatile nib that can do various strokes. There are different types you can get. It comes with extra fine, fine, medium, broad, left-handed and oblique medium nibs, to name a few. Just choose the one that you think would be a great fit for your needs.

It fits the pens I am using seamlessly. It has a snug fit, so there are no worries that it will come off when using it. Another reason I like this one is because of how conveniently I can switch nibs. When you need to change it with another nib, you can easily do so.

The ink just flows so well. I also didn’t do anything to this nib. It just stocks up on ink a lot and then dispenses the ink evenly without the ink gushing out. It controls the ink flow so well. I also like how durable it is even when you put some pressure on it.


  • Fits well and easy to change
  • Ink flows smoothly
  • Can do different strokes
  • Sturdy and withstands damage

This might be a pricey nib but you will get back what you paid for with how well it writes.

What to Look for When Buying Calligraphy Nibs

Looking for the right nibs involve taking the following things into consideration:

Style and Type of Pen

Before anything else, you should first consider what type of calligraphy pen you would want to work with because they don’t all use the same nibs. You have three basic pens to choose from. The first one is the dip style calligraphy pens. These typically make use of removable nibs. You just dip the nib in a bottle of ink and then start writing.

The second option is a cartridge calligraphy pen. This kind of pen has a small cartridge filled with ink. It goes inside the pen. It’s not as messy as the dip style pens but it has a limited use. You can only use the cartridges and the ink produced by the same manufacturer of the pen. Additionally, the ink cartridge might not hold a lot of ink, so you do need to refill a lot.

The last is the marker type pens. They can come with replaceable nibs brush or fine-tip nibs. The whole barrel is filled with ink, so you can use the pen for a long time without having to refill. Some of these pens come with refillable ink and replaceable nibs but most of them are disposable. This means you will have to buy the entire set again if you run out of ink.

When buying nibs, make sure you know what will work for the type of pen that you are using. Start from here and it will be easier to find the right one.

Your Skill Level

You should first assess your skill level. Are you just starting out? It makes sense to buy a calligraphy pen nib that is more suitable for your skill level. If you are a beginner and you choose a nib that is more suitable for experts, you might have a hard time controlling it. Pick a nib that is intended for your skill level.

Beginners should look for nibs with a medium flex. As a beginner, you will still have to figure out how much pressure you will put on the nibs. One with a medium flex can accommodate different kinds of pressure, which can prevent you from breaking and damaging different nibs. Additionally, nibs with a medium flex also have more flexible tines. They won’t snag on paper.

Size of the Nib

The size of the nib will determine how much ink it is going to hold. I don’t know about you but I would hate to have to dip in ink all the time or replace cartridges too often. Consider getting a nib that can hold a large ink volume so you can write consistently.

Easy to Use

Some nibs are tricky to use. They might require more pressure and more difficult angles to use. Go for those that are easy to set up and easy to use. Also, you should opt for those that can withstand a good amount of pressure and still be able to provide clean lines and strokes.

Your Font Preference

What font style do you prefer writing with? Different nibs can create different font styles. If you have a preference, go for those nibs that will make it easier for you to create the font you prefer.


What are the nibs made of? See to it that they are made of a strong and durable material that can resist damage. If you expect to use your nibs for a long time, it should be made from high-quality materials. It should be resistant to corrosion if it is made from metal. For instance, nibs that have been coated with titanium or gold tend to be more durable and resistant to corrosion than those that are just made from stainless steel. The kind of material used for the nib will also determine how much flexibility it has. Also check the nib holder insert to see if it’s durable and can hold up well against wear and tear.

Other Important Factors to Consider

What are the Top-Rated Calligraphy Nibs?

There is no right or wrong answer to this. What one might consider the most favorite modern calligraphy nibs might not be the best choice for another person. It really boils down to personal preferences.

There are good calligraphy nibs from Nikko G. Many people like them because of how easy they are to use for beginners. They create smooth stroke contrasts. The nibs are quite durable, too. You can also look for reputable nibs from Brause and Leonardt nibs.

How Does a Calligraphy Nib Work?

This depends on the nibs and the type of pen you are using. You typically attach your preferred nib to the pen. If it is a dip-style nib, you need to dip it in ink. The nib will collect the ink and then you can start writing with it. The bigger the nib is, the more ink it can hold. If you are using a small nib, you might need to dip it in ink a lot of times.

Those that use cartridges don’t have to do this. The cartridge will deliver ink to the nibs. Once you start writing on paper, the ink will flow out.

The same happens when using calligraphy markers. It already comes with ink inside, so you just wait for the ink to flow to the nibs.

Nibs are also replaceable. Take them out and replace them with the nibs that you prefer.

Who Is This For?

These are for calligraphy enthusiasts. If you love doing calligraphy for everyday writing or journaling, go ahead and invest in a good set of nibs because they will provide you with beautiful handwriting.

These nibs are also for professionals who get commissioned work on their calligraphy writings. If you do calligraphy for writing invitations or for making signages, you should get yourself a set of trusty nibs.

It can also be for artists. You can also use calligraphy pens for drawing and sketching.

What are the Different Types of Calligraphy Nibs?

Choosing the right calligraphy nibs starts with knowing what types of nibs are out there. They can be categorized into different shapes. There are two basic nib shapes today and they are the italic nib and the point nib.

The italic nibs can come in different sizes but what sets them apart from the point nibs are their blunt edge. These nibs are typically used in creating italic scripts. They are quite difficult to use if you are a beginner because they are not that flexible.

Point nibs, on the other hand, are characterized by their rounded tips. These nibs have two tines that meet at the end to create a point. Because of the split tines, you can create different variations of lines. When they separate, they can create wider lines.

These nibs can also be separated based on their mount sizes. The regular nib has a 9mm diameter while the Maru nib has a 3mm diameter. Take this into consideration to determine whether it will fit the pens that you are using.

Why Do You Need Calligraphy Nibs?

You need calligraphy nibs for doing calligraphy. You can go with calligraphy markers but there’s no equal to using a real calligraphy pen with nibs. You need good quality calligraphy nibs to create clean lines and strokes.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the Most Trusted Calligraphy Nib Brands?

Nikko and Brause are two recognizable names in the calligraphy nib industry. You can’t go wrong with their nibs. You can also go for other brands such as Trustela and Speedball. There are a lot of good brands that will not break the bank.

How to Prepare Calligraphy Nibs?

New nibs need to be prepared. If you have a new nib, I suggest sticking it in a potato first. Push the nib down in the potato until half of it is covered. Use a gentle pressure to push the nib in. Let it sit there for about 15 minutes. After that, remove it and then wipe it clean. This will also work when trying to remove oily residues from the nibs.

If your nibs don’t hold a lot of ink and you need to constantly dip them in ink, you would want to heat up the tips first with fire. Do this for just a few seconds and it will set the tips.

Are Speedball Nibs Good?

Speedball nibs are good. What is great about them is that they come in sets that will give you more flexibility when it comes to what kind of calligraphy work you can do. Many are great for first-time users, so if you are a beginner and you want to invest in a good nib set, you can set your eyes on the ones from Speedball.

How Long Does a Calligraphy Nib Last?

A good set of calligraphy nibs can last you for up to 40 applications. If you are using a cheap one, you should be able to get up to 20 uses from it. It depends on a lot of things though such as how you use it. If you take good care of your nibs and you store them properly, you can get more use out of them. Most nibs can last for a long time as long as you take care of them. If you remove the excess ink after using them, your nibs shouldn’t become rusty.

How Do You Use Different Calligraphy Nibs?

Choose the nib that you want to work with. Thin and sharp nibs will make thin lines while nibs with flat tips will create thick lines. Once you have chosen the nib you want to work with, attach it to your pen. Usually, it will fit seamlessly but there are instances when the nibs will not fit, so make sure you check the specifications on the nibs first before using them. They might not be compatible with the pens you are using.

Some nibs might require preparation. You might need to stick them in a potato first and leave them there for a few minutes to remove the grease. Wipe them clean. You might also need to use a lighter to heat up the tips. This trick makes it easier for the nibs to hold ink. If you do this, they will hold more ink and you won’t have to keep on dipping them in the ink.


Start building your calligraphy arsenal. Look for the best calligraphy nibs that you will be able to use regularly. Pick the style of nibs that suits your lettering style. Experiment with different kinds of nibs so you can figure out what your style is.

To Burn or Not to Burn? by tenebris-miles on DeviantArt

Dip pen nibs are usually protected with oils or coatings to prevent them from rusting. The problem with leaving the oil on the nib is that it prevents the ink from adhering to the reservoir and the tip, which causes the ink to blotch or skip. In order to prevent this problem, people will prepare their nibs to improve the flow of ink.

A lot of advice on the internet says that you should burn the nib under a candle or cigarette lighter in order to remove this protective coating. Some people will even say that they like to make the nib glow red hot. Do NOT do this. Burning is a terrible idea, and people should stop spreading this very bad advice. Dip pen nibs are thin pieces of metal that are heat-tempered during manufacturing in order have the right degree of springiness that allows the nib’s tines to spread apart (to make thicker lines) and to retract together again (for thin lines). When you burn your nib, you’re essentially re-tempering the nib by heating it and cooling it again. What happens is that the nib loses some or all of its springiness because the metal is now more brittle. Burning reduces the useful lifetime of the nib, and if you burn it long enough, it will ruin it outright.

So what are the alternatives? The first step is to remember the original problem: ink flow. Preparing the nib properly (without damaging it) is important, but there are also other things to take into consideration. Here are several ways to approach the problem:

1. You can use chemicals such as nail polish remover (acetone) to prepare the nib. Some people say lime juice also works. You don’t have to remove all the protective oils or coating, just use a cotton swab and the chosen chemical and remove stuff from the reservoir to the tip. Leave the rest protected so it prevents rust.

2.  Light abrasives like Brasso can remove stubborn coatings. Rub the reservoir to the tip with a cotton swab soaked in Brasso. Since Brasso will dry to a crusty paste, the idea is that you then take a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol or glass cleaner and then remove the Brasso. This strategy removes the protective coating but will also polish the metal. This usually isn’t a problem, but if the metal is too smooth from the polishing, you can use fine grain sandpaper to rough the area a little. Brasso is also useful if you intentionally want to polish the metal to remove rust or build-up of too much dry ink.

3. Whether the nib is prepared or not, it’s best to use inks that are viscous and specifically designed for dip pen use. Fountain pen inks are too runny and will often have problems with blotching. (The reverse is often true. Dip pen ink often will clog fountain pens.) There are many examples of inks appropriate for dip pens: Pilot drafting ink, Dr PH Martin’s Black Star, Kaimei ink, etc. I see this on fountain pen forums a lot: people who try out dip pens complain about them performing badly because they are using their favorite fountain pen inks instead of using dip pen ink.

4. The size of the reservoir will affect how well the ink will adhere. The effects of surface tension that holds the ink in the reservoir is weaker the wider and larger the reservoir. You might notice that mapping pens like crow quills will be able to accept runny inks better than larger nibs, and in general the smaller nibs will have fewer instances of blotching. Of course, different nibs allow different effects, so the point is not to avoid big nibs, but to ensure you use compatible ink.

5. Some people prepare their nibs by dipping the nib in ink and let the ink dry on the nib. The dried ink allows fresh ink to adhere better, and the strategy is to avoid cleaning the nib too often. I don’t do it this way, so I don’t know how well this works. The reason I don’t do it this way is that I often use the same nib for inks of different colors or with other media such as gouache. I always clean my nibs with rubbing alcohol (which doesn’t cause rusting) after each use so I don’t contaminate colors. Leaving the nib covered with dry ink seems to be a strategy that works best if you only use black ink (or the same colored ink over and over again).

6. You can also change how you charge the reservoir with ink. Personally, instead of dipping the nib, I use an eye dropper to run a bead of ink from the reservoir to the tip, leaving the back clean. Many ink brands will provide a dropper with the bottle. Using the dropper is a personal preference, as it prevents too much dry ink from building up too quickly, and it allows me to do things like turning the nib upside down to draw super-thin lines. (If the back were covered with too much ink, the lines wouldn’t be as thin.)

7. It’s not that burning the nib doesn’t improve ink adhesion. It does. It’s that it also damages the nib. However, if the nib is meant to be a stiff nib, and if it is thicker metal than the thin flexible nibs, a few seconds under a flame works well enough for some people. It still damages the nib, but not badly enough to where some people will care. It’s up to you whether or not this is good enough. Personally, I never burn nibs since chemical means are just as effective and don’t cause damage.

8. You can opt to not prepare the nib at all. If your favorite combination of nib and ink works fine out-of-the-box (or after one or two uses of breaking-in), then there’s not much reason to prepare the nib. Preparing the nib is meant to alleviate problems with ink flow, but if there is no problem, then if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. Unprepared/unaltered nibs will typically last the longest.

Dip pen nibs, holders, and ink for manga? : fountainpens

This is a fountain pen subreddit, so not really the right place. Note that you absolutely cannot put all those inks into an actual fountain pen, and you cannot handle a fountain pen nib like a flexible G nib. I’ll still answer your question, but you need to search the other subreddits for answers. Your question actually has been answered multiple times, because believe it or not, how to draw manga is a really popular question.

For dip nibs, you’ll be interested in not just the G nib and school nib, but also the Saji or Tama nib, and the Maru nib. Don’t restrict yourself to just those, although eventually you’ll probably find yourself settling on one of those depending on the linework that is most prominent in what you want to draw.

For holders, look at the Tachikawa holder to start with. Because the shape of some of the nibs are a bit different, western holders can’t fit some of the nibs (particularly maru nibs, I believe). There’s a Jetpens guide to nibs and holder compatibility you can Google, but in general, since Tachikawa is a major brand, their holders are good to use. Or Japanese made ones in any case.

For inks, there are a few in use depending on the properties you need, so there’s no right answer. Deleter, Kuretake, Kaimei, etc. all have various inks. Pilot has a drawing ink. Also, keep in mind that aside from dip nibs, brushes are used too, which in turn affects what ink you would prefer to use.

I’ll just finally say that if you’re trying to create manga, be careful of chasing the tools, as it’s a moving target. Modern manga is often handled with computer tools either in full or part.

Be prepared to go through a hassle for many of these items, assuming you want to replicate some of the favored tools of major mangaka. They are not in direct retail internationally. Most of them don’t get favored by import exporters, and the rest are inflated in price.

You can try to get a setup going from Jetpens, at about $35 for free shipping or less. It’s enough to cover a holder, some nibs, a brush pen or two, and an ink. That’s probably enough for now.

In the future, if you’re really serious, you’ll want to consider importing them from Japan in bulk.

Nibs: a comparison

When I got into regularly drawing with dip pens, nibs were easy to find at the local art store and I could get them for thirty cents a piece. So it wasn’t too hard to try out different kinds. These days, not all art stores carry nibs and they tend to be around one to three dollars each. They’re still pretty cheap for an art supply, but you have to actively seek them out, usually from on-line retailers (I’ve listed some at the bottom). Since trying out different models takes a bit more effort, it helps to narrow your search a bit. One way to do that is to find out what nibs your favorite pen-and-ink artists use. The other way is to look at guides like this one.

Finding a nib you like is a matter of taste. But there are certain qualities to look for in any nib (in each category a spectrum is possible):


Thin line – Thick line
What is the size of the line produced when standard pressure is applied to the nib?

Smooth – Scratchy
How does the nib feel on the page?

Stable – Flexible
How does the nib feel as you increase pressure on it?

Steady – Elastic
How quickly does the nib return to its original shape?

High modulation – Low modulation
How much variation can you get out of the line created?

The following is a brief overview of a few pointed pen nibs. This is by no means an exhaustive list; it’s just a few of the more common nibs I’ve used and enjoyed. This list moves roughly from thick line nibs to thin line ones (or right to left in the image above).


Brause 76
I hadn’t heard about Brause nibs when I started out. What I have discovered is that the Brause nibs are consistently the best made nibs I have ever tried. The 76 is also called the “Rose” due to the little rose embossed on the shaft. It’s a fairly large nib and so creates wider lines, but it is incredibly flexible. The 76 is the closest thing to inking with a brush of any nib I’ve tried. It’s a lot of fun.

Hunt 512
This is a stiff, not very flexible nib with a smooth feel. It has a “bowl tip”: meaning that the point is rounded slightly. This makes drawing curves easier. I used to use this nib for all my lettering, but have stopped because it seemed like the 512s were getting scratchier and more frequently defective. I feel that the Hunt nibs have really gone down in quality over the years.

Leonardt 30
This is the nib I use for lettering now. Leonardt nibs have recently made a comeback. The 30 is solid and stiff, which works well for consistent lettering. It’s a lot like the Hunt 512, but with a bit more modulation possibility and a smoother feel.

Zebra G
Comics artists inspired by manga are often turned on to the fabled “G” nib. In my limited experience, the Zebra G nib is better than the Nikko G nib. It’s not very flexible, but delivers very controlled lines. For a larger nib, the line it creates is actually fairly fine. The nib feels strong and it lasts a long time. Personally, I find the nib a bit too scratchy and inflexible for my tastes. The Tachikawa G is slightly more flexible (maybe I’ll post a comparison at a later date).

Gillott 303
This is a reliable nib with a bit of flexibility. While there are smaller Gillott nibs, I’ve found that the 303 actually can produce a thinner line than many of them. So this is a good nib to start with if you want to try a nib from Gillott. Overall though, I find the 303 a bit too scratchy for my taste, and this is true of all the Gillott nibs I’ve used.

Esterbrook 356
I got this nib on eBay. Esterbrook was a standard line of nibs once upon a time. From what I’ve tried, all their nibs are solidly built. The 356 is a bit stiff and doesn’t offer a lot of line variation.

Brause 66ef
I used this nib when I drew Carnivale. It produces a fairly fine line, but has a very springy feel. Even so, it is easy to create a stable line with the 66ef. When you vary the pressure on the nib, the line fluctuates evenly. It doesn’t suddenly swell or drop off. I think this is due to the quality of the metal used to make the nib. While the point of the nib is fine, it is also slightly rounded, like the Hunt 512. That means that you can almost draw a circle with one stroke, versus composing a circle from two strokes as you have to do with most nibs. It also has a good ink capacity, so you can create long, flowing lines. Overall, it’s a nice nib and would be a good nib to start with if you wanted a fine line.

Brause 511
This is my favorite nib and the one I draw with most often now. When I first used this nib I liked how smooth it was, but I thought it was a bit too unyielding. Yet this was due to the fact that I was coming off using the Hunt 100, which is the most elastic nib out there. The Brause 511 is not very elastic, but capable of a nice bit of variation if you apply the pressure. Don’t be shy with it; bear down and see what it can do. Since it is more stable and steady, when you apply pressure, the nib smoothly comes back to a thinner line. You might be able to see the contrast with the Hunt 100. With the 100, the line drops back quickly to a thin line, making for a little cliff after the large swell. The 511 modulates at a more consistent rate. So this nib offers a lot of variability while not sacrificing control. And it feels like a dream on the page. This is why I love this nib so much.

Hunt 100
At one time, the Hunt 100 was my main drawing nib. What I love about it is it’s incredible springiness. The nib is very elastic and flexible. Because of this, it takes a steady hand to control it, but it is capable of making some very expressive marks. Yet the flexibility of the nib also means that it’s not very good for hatching, at least if you want a consistent size to your hatch marks. There are two main reasons that I no longer use this nib. One, it wears out fast. The elasticity of the nib is due to the lightness its metal and this light metal wears out quickly. Second, this nib has made me want to scream one too many times. There is nothing more frustrating than wanting to draw but having no ink flow from your pen. I’ve had this problem more often with the Hunt 100 than with any other nib I’ve ever tried. When I was more inexperienced, I thought the problem was me (and sometimes it was). But I’ve since realized that it’s mostly the nib. So, this is an expressive nib, but not one that you want to rely on. Honestly, this nib has caused me more frustration than any other.

Hunt 102
This is a small tubular nib, which, unsurprisingly, creates a very fine line. So if you want small marks, this is a nib to try. I’ve found though that at a certain point, lines can get so small that they don’t reproduce well. Since I create comics, this is a concern for me. So I find the 102 too small. The Brause 515 is a similar nib, though not quite as thin, yet with a much smoother feel.


On-line nib retailers:
Pen-and-Ink Arts

Other on-line nib guides:

(written December 23, 2016)


Zest-it Technical Pen Cleaner for removing Drawing Ink A, Indian Ink, Acrylic and Permanent inks

Zest-it Dip Pen Nib Cleaner



Dip Pen Nib Cleaner pot with nibs being cleaned.



Dirty dip pen nibs



Just 10 minutes in the cleaner


Product Safety Information
for Zest-it Dip Pen Nib Cleaner PDF


Our Dip Pen Nib Cleaner will remove fresh, stubborn and old dried-on Indian and Permanent Inks from the dip pen nibs, steel tubular nibs of Technical and other Drawing Pens.

We have tested it with Pelikan Drawing Ink A, Indian Ink, Permanent Pigmented Ink and others, it removed them all.
Our cleaner has a pleasant smell, contains no CFC’s or Aromatics, is biodegradable, re-usable, water miscible with a minimum usable life of 5 years.

There are a few ways to use the Dip Pen Nib Cleaner. Removing Ink video
Pour a small amount into a suitable container that has a lid and drop the nibs into the solution. Leaver to soak for 10 to 20 minutes, remove after this time and wash with water, dry on kitchen towel, your nibs will be clean, refreshed and ready for use.
Keep this container lidded and labelled for cleaning your nibs because it is reusable with a long active life.

The another way is to use the pre-filled sponge that comes in a lidded container – with this, just push the nibs into the sponge and leave for the required time, wash under the tap as before and wipe dry.
The advantage of the sponge is, it’s easy and ready for use, you don’t have to fish the nibs out of the fluid; it is economical in use and is long lasting.
In the image on the left you can see the ink is being removed from the nibs into the sponge.

If you have pens where the nib is permanently attached or you don’t want to remove the nib from its holder, then you can swish the nib in a small amount of liquid or dampen a cloth and clean the nib. A dampened cloth works well in many situations.

Tip: someone told us they use a ‘tea ball infuser’ to put the nibs in before placing in the cleaner, this saves ‘fishing them out’ after soaking!
Thank you D for the tip. We tried it and it works very well.

*We have a caution to note; this product works so well that – if the nibs are left in the liquid too long, it may discolour the nibs by taking the coloured lacquer off the surface. The nib will not be harmed but it could be just a ‘grey’ colour when it comes out, whereas they may have been bronze when you put them in!

There are many nibs and many different finishes on nibs, not all are affected.

Sizes available – 125 ml and 250 ml also Sponge in a Pot which is pre-impregnated with 15ml of Zest-it Dip Pen Nib Cleaner.

Please note: If you have used oil paint, liquid wax or masking fluid on the nibs then use one of the Zest-it Solvent’s on the products page to clean them.

Copyright Jacqui Blackman 2010

If you wish to Subscribe please visit our Zest-it Channel


Drawing manga with Japanese Pen Nibs- Review from a Pen Nib Lover

For many artist is hard to leave old ways to learn a new one. And some people are just not tech savvy.

I have hard time to put pencil and paper away and replace them with the computer too. When I was going to the Art School back in Italy, Photoshop was quite new and only big graphic designer agencies used it. We learnt to draw everything by hand, even lettering. I remember this big Letraset fonts book making copies of the selected font and draw it free hand.
Now, it’s enough go on Dafont.com and download as much fonts as you like. Thanks God!

Everything changed completely in the last decades. Digital art made enormous steps and its related products are getting more affordable and friendly user. That made it easier for younger artists quickly adapt and learn new techniques with technology.

Youtube changed the game too. There are plenty of tutorials for every subject. And most of them are really good. Back in my days, you had to take a course or go to the library.

A Generation thing might be one of the reason why older Japanese artist still use pen nibs. Maybe, but it’s not completely true. Some young Japanese artists use pen nibs to draw their manga too.

Some may say that mangaka have assistants that help them while American and European comic book artists work by themselves so mangaka have more time to apply in drawings with traditional art materials than western artists.
I would say no. This is not a good reason. It is true that mangaka have assistants but that’s because in Japan publishing deadlines are insane.

Manga are published weekly in magazines. When a manga gets popularity, the publisher publishes the story in volumes for selling all over Japan and other countries.

In Japan, every mangaka assistant has a specific role. Some assistants may draw just the backgrounds for a page another one may just ink the page and so on. It is practically impossible to finish a chapter ready for publishing by yourself in a week. I can’t even finish a page in a week!

So, why some Japanese artists still use pen nibs?

The true is that drawing with a pencil and inking with a pen nib creates unique lines different from one to another that only your hand with a pen nib can create and cannot be duplicate over and over like in a computer so the image that you just created is unique. For this reason, your drawing has personality and has your style which is your signature.

Now, I know some of you may disagree. But If you really pay attention to most of the manga and western comic style out there you will notice that are almost alike. Drawing on the computer is nice and faster but sometimes I see these beautiful artworks look too much similar to one another. Their are great drawings but with no personality.

I follow several artists on Instagram. They creates amazing drawings with the computer, no doubt. But honestly, if I don’t read the name of who posted the artwork I can’t recognize who draw it because they all look the same.

I don’t blame the using of computer. Art schools teach to the students to draw manga in a certain style because it sells. So they learn to draw in that way from school, and these young artists won’t find their own style. DC and Marvel comics are not exception. There is a mass production of anime and manga, and comics in general. Stories are shorter and pretty much similar to each other.

I might be wrong, but I grew up watching anime. They were different styles and you could recognized who drew it. Miyazaki, Takahashi, Monkey Punch are great Japanese cartoonist and you can tell the difference in their style and stories. You don’t need to figure out. Their drawing style is their signature. Unfortunately, it’s getting lost.

90,000 13 professional tips for beginners – Sei-Hai

The technique of drawing with ink is unforgiving, and if you do make a mistake, it will be very difficult to correct it. The eraser will no longer help you, and you will have to look for another way to eliminate it. Ink also requires special skills and abilities. Especially when it comes to creating texture and conveying light or shadow.

But don’t be afraid to experiment. Drawing with ink can be incredibly creative and fun.And your work can be as delicate or bold as your temperament dictates.

We asked professional artists to share their tips for getting started. In this article, you will learn about everything from the choice of tools and materials to various ink painting techniques.

1. Pen selection

First thing you need to do is get an ink pen. Different artists have different preferences, and it will probably take a little trial and error to figure out which one is right for you.

“I recommend trying out everything that is available, from fountain pens to Japanese calligraphy brushes,” says comic book artist and illustrator Tessa Fowler. “You need to find a tool that will allow you to achieve the desired effect, be it feathering, splattering or streak-free.”

2. How to hold the pen correctly

Practice your hatching technique
(Image credit: Theresa Nielsen)

There are several ways to help you better control the movement of the pen.Teresa Nielsen advises keeping the pen close to the tip and drawing at a 45-degree angle from the paper.

“The lines depend on the movement of your body. To draw with ink, you need to use your hand and shoulder, not just your wrist, ”she says.

There are also some exercises you can use to develop your skills. “Practice making broad strokes, bold lines, crisp strokes, fine dots, curves and straight lines,” explains Nielsen.”Make sure you can make each of these lines perfect.”

3. Start with pencil sketches

If you make a mistake with ink, it is very difficult to hide it. For this reason, many artists start to draw their drawings with a pencil. And after the ink is dry, the pencil drawing can be erased.

You can use several classic HB or B pencils. Nielsen also suggests making light sketches with the light warm gray PITT pen.You can also lightly rinse off or thin the ink.

4. Emphasize the eyes

Eyes can be made wider with a gel pen
(Image courtesy of Tessa Fowler)

There is a danger that the live pencil drawing will look a little flat when ink is added, Fowler warns. This is because you are much more precise and improve on existing lines. To avoid this, you will need to work a lot more on the drawing. This is the only way you can conserve this energy.

“Drawing with ink is more than just tracing lines, and drawing eyes is something to keep in mind as never before,” she explains. “Is the flesh under your eyes wrinkled with tears? Desperate brow furrowed? Are your eyes glassy and shiny? Don’t forget that you can use a gel pen. With its help, you can make the look heavier by darkening the eyelashes and also draw the desired emotions. ”

5. Explore different textures

The line can dictate the tone and texture of the drawing.
(Image credit: Theresa Nielsen)

The tone and texture of ink drawings are created using the strokes used.“Each line has its own specific qualities. Therefore, changing the thickness, direction and density can have a big impact on the appearance of the pattern, ”says Nielsen.

Exploring different textures – stones, thatched roofs, trees – is a great way to enrich creative work and increase its professional value. “The contrasting textures are visually interesting,” says Fowler. “Have you ever touched the bark of a tree? Cold, heavy stone? Fill your work with a kind of library of sensations.Various tools and materials will help you with this. Dip the tip of your finger in ink and press it against the walls of the building you painted. Voila! Here’s how to create a new texture. ”

6. How to create an abstract drawing with natural shapes

Keileta’s headdress offers many possibilities
(Image courtesy of Tessa Fowler)

Plants and flowers can be a great element of ink drawing. They can also help make the drawing abstract. “Look in the garden outside your window.What forms do flowers and leaves take? Triangles? Wavy ovals? Diamonds? Let the natural world inspire you to create new shapes! ” Says Fowler with delight.

She especially likes to draw the half-elf Kailita, whose drawing is shown above. “Her floral wreaths give me the ability to paint an incredible amount of flowers and leaves. Just bundles of distorted shapes that cling to each other. They grow and hang down like the rays of the sun suddenly emerging from the clouds, ”she says.

7. Part hair into strands

“Hair is the hardest thing for humans to draw,” says Fowler. She suggests separating them into “strands”, as highlighting individual hairs can be confusing to the eyes. It is also important that your wrist moves freely and the lines are playful to convey the energy of the hair.

“Have you ever seen someone outside on a slightly windy day? Have you seen the hair rise, move and dance? ” She says.- “This is how they need to be captured.”

8. Experiment with silhouettes

No meticulous details are needed to tell a story
(Image courtesy of Tessa Fowler)

Simplicity is incredible power. “Black ink formed into recognizable shapes and objects can tell a story as easily as a highly detailed drawing,” says Fowler.

Fowler suggests trying to tell the story with only silhouettes. “It’s a great way to test if your story is clear in comics,” she adds.”If the body language of your figures matches the silhouette, you are on the right track.”

9. Everything about fur

Fur and hair can be very expressive
(Image courtesy of Tessa Fowler)

Fur in any form, even as part of a character’s costume, can be a great way to bring energy and expression to your drawings. As with the hair, you want to merge the strands of fur together, rather than sketching out each individual hair.

“I love painting fur because I can use a paintbrush to create playful shapes,” says Fowler.- “Find some pictures of different animals. How do hairs look closer to the skin? In which direction do they grow? Maybe the fur got wet before? ”

10. Try bird feathers

If you want to try something new – you can use bird feathers. They are great for creating a variety of lines, both very small and fairly thick. However, they need to be used with a tall ink tank and cleaned more often. These factors make them a little less user-friendly.“If you choose this option, you need to fill the inkwell so that when the tip touches the bottom, three quarters of the nib is covered in ink,” advises Nielsen. – “Wipe the pen every 10 minutes to keep ink flowing.”

11. Make the lines on the face clear

(Image courtesy of Tessa Fowler)

When drawing characters, one of the most important elements is the face. “I made clear lines on the faces so that the emotions were clear,” explains Tessa.- “Changing the thickness of the line gives a special energy to the expression.” She also suggests adding details like beard, scars, tattoos and wrinkles to hint at the character’s story.

12. Choosing between brush and liner

Brushes make lines stand out

Many artists prefer to use brushes. They are great for soft, curved, expressive lines and can be used to create lines of varying width depending on how hard you press on them.

Liners, on the other hand, produce hard, solid lines. They are easy to operate and good for accurate drawing. But at the same time, they can be less expressive than a regular brush, due to the uniformity of the lines.

13. Be careful with the color

The ink outlines should act as a frame for color
(Image courtesy of Tess Fowler)

Some ink drawings should be in black and white. And some can be colored. And once you’ve made that decision, there are a few rules to follow, Fowler says.Firstly, you need to avoid the predominance of color in the picture, for this you can make the background black. Second, make sure you don’t smudge the ink when adding color. The outline of the ink should act as a frame for the color.

Read also:

Mistakes of Beginning Artists: How to Draw Believably

TOP-10 drawing applications for iOS and Android

The girl just tried to draw her dog, but viral masterpieces turned out


90,000 👩🏻‍🎨 Learning to Choose Tools – Ink and Pen

One of the most ancient and forgotten tools for artistic drawing – ink and pen.They can also be made from all kinds of materials and substances. The master can serve as a pointed reed, the tip of a feather, bamboo, and part of a stick made of ordinary wood. Artists to this day prefer to make materials for their work with their own hands, but they can also be purchased in various stores in this direction. Their range is very wide and they are quite affordable in our market.

You will only find the type of pen you need after you try it out. There are also many practical recommendations, they are all related to your subject of drawing and various effects, with their help you can achieve the desired result.The thin nibs, which are made of fiberglass, and the ink flows into them very evenly, will help you to draw quickly. If you do not have the opportunity to carry ink with you, this is the most suitable option for you, since their usefulness lies in the fact that they can be used outdoors. They can also be used purely mechanically to draw a line, although this does not really matter when drawing sketches, as well as for the crosshatch or regular hatching method.

For line drawing, the most ideal option is traditional regular nibs with the simplest wooden holder, in which nibs are interchanged, although you need to draw with them very slowly, since you constantly need to dip the nib into the ink.A wide nib uses a lot more ink than a thin nib, and therefore the line thickness is quite thicker, and the length of the line is limited at one stroke.
Indian drawing ink is the most common polymer ink, although you can use a wide variety of ink that can be purchased for this type of pen, and you can also use acrylic ink. They are based on water, so they can be diluted to the desired consistency for your drawing.

Now I will show you how you can depict movement
1. This theme requires a high degree of precision, for this the artist first began to draw with a pencil, and only then trace the outlines with the necessary ink with a thin fountain pen.

2. And now she proceeds to the very implementation of our drawing with dashed lines, which, moreover, simulate the shapes, and also give the horse that moves, an impulse.

3.The shadow, located slightly below the horse’s leg, which is galloping from behind, was made by the artist as a tiny surface of very black color. And it helps to “throw” the leg forward, while increasing physical tension and a sense of speed.

4. On the body and on the neck of the horse walking behind, additional auxiliary “speed lines” are depicted, but they were kept very light, so they do not particularly interfere with modeling the horse’s neck.

5.This drawing is finished and conveys a feeling of real excitement, and we have the opportunity to feel how the animal, jumping from behind, strains any muscle of its body and seeks to catch up with the leader.

For this drawing, which was drawn within ten minutes, a well-known ballpoint pen was used, and the lines were drawn over each other, in order to make any changes, convey the shape and correct all the contours. For quick sketches and sketches, the most affordable and ideal option is the most ordinary ballpoint pen, i.e.because it is more accessible than all other drawing tools.

Consider the pictures from left to right: Cross hatching with a fountain pen, hatching with a bird pen and drawing with an ordinary ballpoint pen.

90,000 👩🏻‍🎨 Draw tone and lines with pen and ink

Gradation can only be created with drawn lines, although a pen drawing works well with a shade of gray watercolors or diluted ink.Ink that can be used for drawing or writing can be easily diluted with water, so you can achieve the color or shade you want. Chinese ink is another type of ink that is often used in mixed drawing.
You can start with tone or line – that’s your choice, but you need to avoid tight mechanical contours and then fill them with tone. You need to strive for an expressive, sensual line, change its thickness in such a way that some edges are lost, and other edges are found.Bamboo or bird feathers are the most ideal choice for this kind of work. However, you can still use a fiberglass nib and pen that is filled with diluted ink. When you add some water, they blur rather easily and quickly. It is possible to strengthen the lines in the place and at the time when the wash is dry.
You can do the work on the most ordinary drawing paper, but the best option would be to use watercolor paper: such paper does not rub off for a long time, and therefore it will seem that the texture breaks the feather lines, while giving them the softest beautiful sound.

Left to right:

  • Lines made with water-soluble ink and pen, and above with brush washes;
  • Lines made with pen and water-soluble ink with fiberglass nib, wash;
  • Mixed Chinese ink.

Drawn lines with hillshade made on top.
For this we will use a regular fountain pen for drawing and Indian ink.We will work on watercolor paper. You need to start with the outline, and you need to draw it very carefully in order to place as many of the most basic elements as possible. We will use a slightly dashed light line, since working with the pen should not be more important in the drawing than the hillshade.

The very first tone will be applied with ink slightly diluted with water on a part of the trees and the building, then we move on to the tone on the roof, it will be much darker.

Important Hint:
Stretch the paper first if you want to do a very damp wash.
Hillshade should be applied as long as you paint. At the same time, the ink will give a slightly granular texture, and at the same time it will give texture to the foliage.

Small, dark surfaces were used to paint windows in order to focus the viewer’s attention on buildings. A darker, heavier hillshade has been applied to bushes and trees, and some areas of the white paper are associated with highlights. With the help of light, we make the right side of the tree lighter, please draw your attention to this.

In some places, feather lines remain visible, although hillshade has left most of these lines covered. This lends clarity and appeal to the finished work.

Draw a sketch with pen and ink

Flowing lines drawn with a pen and brightly colored ink lend a special charm and originality to this still life of dry plants and corn on the cob.

To draw with a pen, an artist only needs a pen, ink and a sheet of paper.However, despite the apparent lightness and laconicism of pen drawings, this technique cannot be called simple – first of all, because the artist should only put a stroke, for sure. Ink is an indelible material , and amendments to the pen drawing are practically excluded.

If you love to draw in a lively, spontaneous manner, then you will undoubtedly enjoy working with a pen and colored ink. Many generations of artists have worked with this technique, creating meticulously detailed drawings and wonderful sketches for their paintings.

How to use the pen
The metal nib is elastic. This allows, by changing the pressure, to vary the thickness of the line. Texture effects and tone artists. create primarily using simple or cross-hatching. In addition, they use other techniques in this technique – for example, they apply dots, specks or smooth blurred lines.
It is best to draw with a pen on smooth, thick paper, but with which the pen will slide without clinging to the hairs of the fibers.In addition, on glossy paper, you can correct minor mistakes by gently scraping off any incorrect lines with a scalpel or razor blade.

Mixing paints

When drawing with colored ink, remember to wipe the nib thoroughly, moving from one color to the next.
In order to obtain the desired color shade, color inks are mixed in the same way as other paints. The best way to mix ink is to use a small container, such as a plastic water bottle cap.

For a lesson in ink drawing you will need:
A sheet of smooth paper
Fountain pen with a regular steel nib
8 bubbles of colored ink: sepia, orange, walnut brown, burnt sienna, brick red, yellow, olive green, gray
Paper napkins

1 Sketch with ink

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Lesson – Step 1

Sketch out the outlines of the objects in sepia ink. At this stage, the dry tease buds look like simple ovals.Draw a few sunflower petals and major veins on the large maple leaf. Draw parallel lines on the cob, and then draw individual grains along them.

2 Continue to paint in sepia

Ink and Pen Drawing Tutorial – Step 2

Shape the corncob with short, rounded pen strokes. Draw needles on the oval bumps of the teat, drawing frequent thin lines along the border of the ovals. Add a few more petals to the sunflower.

3 Start drawing with green ink

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Lesson – Step 3

Before moving on to the colored ink, blot the nib with a paper towel. Use olive green ink to shade the leaves and sepals of the sunflower. Make sure that the hatching lines follow the contours of these parts of the drawing.

4 Coloring sheet

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Tutorial – Step 4

Mix some orange and hazel brown ink and use dense hatching to paint the maple leaf.Apply straight, oblique, or cross hatching to different areas. For a lighter color with a rusty tint, mix burnt sienna and brick red ink. Shade the corresponding areas of the sheet in the same way. Then deepen the tone in some areas of the sheet, where with sepia, and where with nut brown ink. Layers of multi-colored shading superimposed on one another will help you simultaneously create not only the desired tone, but also the texture of a dry autumn leaf.

5 Add yellow color

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Tutorial – Step 5

Move on to the yellow ink.Cover the corncob with oblique hatching, painting several kernels at a time. Apply dense shading to the sunflower petals.

6 Deepening tones

Step by step lesson in drawing with ink and pen – step 6

Take sepia ink. Fill the center of the sunflower with thick shading. Add new needles to the dry tease buds and deepen the tone in the center of each oval. Draw the details of the texture on the stems of the flowers. Use sparse shading to tone down the corncob with burnt sienna.

At this stage, the sketch can be considered complete, but you can continue to work to add light shadows and clarify individual tones.

7 Draw shadows

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Tutorial – Step 7

Take the gray ink and draw with short light strokes the shadows cast by the corncob, tease cones and sunflower. Draw shadows with long lines that cast the stems of the flowers.

8 Final touches

Step by Step Ink and Pen Drawing Tutorial – Step 8

Continue to work with the gray ink.Deepen the tone at the base of the corncob. Apply hatching directly over the lines drawn in yellow ink and sepia. Add shadows where the tip of the leaf on the cob folds upward.

Step-by-step Ink and Pen Drawing Lesson – Online Learning Results

Step-by-step ink and pen drawing lesson – the result of the online lesson

A Sepia outlines
The initial drawing was not done in black ink, but in sepia, so the outlines of objects look soft and not striking.

B Mixed Colors
In order to reproduce the rusty and orange tones of an autumn leaf as accurately as possible, inks of different colors were mixed.

B Cross-hatching
Differing tonal depths are achieved with cross-hatching, in which the lines are closer or further apart.

90,000 About materials. Part 4. Ink and feathers Today I will show my feathers and various mascaras.
And I will also compare how three different black mascaras differ from each other and show how they draw which feathers.

First, I’ll tell you about the ink jars I have.
Let’s start with the cheapest ink (and ink) – these are the products of Gamma and Koch-i-nor, here they are:
I only have purple ink, by the way, the expiration date was still out in May 2009, i.e. 4.5 years ago, then I just started trying ink painting and buying the first jars. To my surprise, it is still in good condition, I have not tried to draw with it before.
I have also had green ink for a long time, already 4 years ago, I accidentally poured the first such vial on a notebook right on top of a pair, which ruined the notebook on analytical chemistry (by the way, the text was not damaged).Unfortunately, KiN green ink is now of a different color (as far as I can tell in the store, transparent and more like the color that Winsor & Newton has, but at first glance, I didn’t buy it, so I don’t know how it looks on paper. I like this particular color better, the one that was before
Black, brown and white mascara. As far as I remember this is acrylic mascara, and I was always confused by the inscription about the fact that this mascara is highly resistant to water, but at the same time is not indelible.I didn’t try to paint over this mascara with watercolors, who have tried – share the result. Brown is pleasant, and black is black, while white quickly settles and shakes worse and worse over time, and it is also slightly transparent when applied, so I prefer a white gel pen more – it is more convenient and faster.

Here you can see how these mascaras look on paper, brush, and below the blur with water. On top of the colored ones, I painted with white (you can see the transparency for yourself)

I will also talk about a special type of ink, about which, for some reason, most of whose painters I know have no idea at all.
This is a latex mascara. She is the only one that is EXACTLY not washable. It has several drawbacks: you rarely find it anywhere, where I find the expiration date is already half (the last one had to be thrown out, and this one, though it ended, I bought it only in the spring and she writes), it is only black (I only I saw), well, it sticks obsessively to the pen, you need to immediately wash it off, wipe it off, then you have to scrape it off with a knife.
The way it looks on paper I have, but it is black and water resistant (when dry), perfect for contouring in watercolor.

Next, I’ll talk about expensive cans of mascara from Winsor & Newton
I have these, the emerald one has been with me for a long time and when I bought it I could not see how it looks on paper, the color turned out to be not at all what I expected. And in general, this is always the case with all ink except black.
That ink that in small glass jars is considered ink for artwork and is perfectly diluted with water (so they said in the store) and that ink that is in large jars is for calligraphy, but not finding the red and brown I needed among the artistic ones, I took these without looking, T.to the color in the jar was as it should, I did not try on paper and regretted it a lot.
Emerald mascara is not emerald at all, but something closer to turquoise, I like blue (I have no complaints about it, a very nice color).
But brown and red, what are they? Brown is pleasantly red, and red with a raspberry hue!
By the way, I liked the way calligraphy ink is diluted more.

Always try what ink looks like on paper before using it!

Well, the third type is Chinese ink for calligraphy.I have two. I bought the first one (in plastic packaging) at the beginning of summer, but didn’t try it, and I bought the second one in St. Petersburg. at Miroedova School we used it and I found it comfortable. I found this only somewhere in one place and I have already forgotten where, in Leonardo, or something. And the one in a plastic jar comes in a box and is sold with us everywhere. I cannot compare in cost and ml.

But doing this review I came across an amazing one:
1) The one that is more convenient to use in glass, the one in plastic has a spout for drops and you cannot dip a brush or a pen there.
2) But the ink that was praised in school was not at all black. I don’t know if it is visible in the photo, but it is dark-dark gray and is inferior in brightness to that in plastic (as well as ink from Koch-i-nor)

And now the second part: what I write and draw with.
Here it is my wealth (though there are three joke-holders, not one)

To begin with, the most authentic and ancient invention: bamboo sticks. For some reason I draw with them a little, but they are very interesting, the line can be of different thickness and you can make different effects).True, one of the three was defective. Such, if desired, you can make yourself from bamboo and, probably, from reeds (it grows often in our latitudes. You will have to try.

The leftmost is very thin, it is not often found, but it scratches the paper and holds very I once bought it for biological and entomological purposes, it is convenient for them to sign a very small label. piece for more mascara.

These are LEONARDT nibs and their numbers. The pen -400- has already deteriorated and does not draw, most of all I like the blue Lieno -40-

This is all together:
I don’t know how it turned out, but I have two stars, and number 23 already three.
The brushes that I paint were in the previous roundup.

I also have a real, larger, quill pen, but I didn’t use it for writing or drawing, sorry.

Soon there will be markers and maybe someday pencils, previous entries are here:
Ch1.Watercolor: http://anaill.livejournal.com/32791.html
Ch2. Paints: http://anaill.livejournal.com/34266.html
Ch3. Brushes http://anaill.livejournal.com/34536.html

Taking notes and drawing in OneNote for Windows 10

In OneNote Notebook for Windows 10, you can write notes by hand, draw and sketch. These functions are most convenient for use with touchscreen devices, but you can also draw with a mouse. The new set of pens is customizable and portable.You can define the pens, pencils, and markers you want, and they become available in OneNote, Word, Excel, and PowerPoint.

To get started, in the menu Draw , tap Draw with the mouse or finger .

Pen selection

  1. To change the pen width, from the Draw menu select a thin or medium pen shape.

  2. To change the pen color, tap Ink Color and select one of the available colors.

Deleting ink

  1. To erase what you have drawn, tap Eraser and select one of the following:

    • Medium eraser – allows you to manually erase parts of the drawing.

    • Stroke Eraser – Erases all drawn strokes with one touch.

      Note: If you deleted something by accident, tap the “Cancel” button in the upper right corner of the application window, or press CTRL + Z on an external keyboard.

Ink selection

  • To work with multiple ink strokes at the same time, tap Freehand and circle the strokes you want to group.

Convert ink to text

OneNote includes a handy tool for converting handwritten text to print. The resulting text will retain the size and color of the ink, as well as the selection and effects.

  1. On the Draw tab , tap Free selection .

  2. Circle the handwritten text you want to convert on the page.

  3. On the Draw tab , tap Ink to Text .

Draw precise shapes

  1. To draw a shape that OneNote automatically clears of unwanted elements, on the Draw menu, tap Convert to Shapes.

  2. Draw a shape, such as a circle, triangle, or rectangle.

    The hand-drawn shape is converted to a shape with clean lines and sharp corners.

Switch to input mode

Pan and zoom while drawing

  • Tap Select objects or enter text to exit drawing mode and use the pan and zoom functions.

    Select one of the options below.

    • To zoom in or out, pinch or stretch your fingers on the desired area.

    • To scroll, slide your finger up or down.

    • To use panoramic view, swipe left or right.

    • When finished, tap Draw to return to drawing.

Ink Drawing – HiSoUR Cultural History

A drawing pen or pen is a painting technique used by 17th century artists from the Dutch Republic. The artist first creates a canvas with white oil paint before painting it in blue ink in India.

Pen and Ink Drawing describes the process of using pens to apply ink to a surface. There is an endless supply of pens and ink. Fundamentals of painting techniques, painting tools and materials, and ink. Some of the materials you may need to create your ink drawing include ink, drawing pens, assorted nibs, lead pencil, eraser, paper towel, paintbrush, and drawing surface.

Drawing with pen and ink allows the artist to create strong areas of contrast.Most ink drawings are completed with black ink on white surfaces, resulting in a lot of contrast in cost. Many artists prefer to use this contrast. Others, however, find it difficult to create gradations in value for this reason.

Several layer methods are used to create the necessary shading transitions. These techniques include hatching, cross-hatching, random lines, and cross-hatching.

One eye-catching feature with pen and ink is a clean, ready-made look that can be created.Preliminary drawings can be completed using graphite and then drawn in ink. Once the ink is dry, the graphite can be wiped off, leaving a “controlled” image with high contrast.

The drawing techniques used with ink can be as varied as the artists who use them. There are, of course, a few that are used with some frequency.

Pen drawing technique:

Hatching is a technique used to add value in a linear fashion.The lines used for hatching generally run in the same direction for a specific area. When using hatching, the lines do not intersect with each other. (Although cross-hatching can be used in combination with hatching) Hatch lines can be parallel, or they can be used as cross-contour lines to define the shape of an object. The closer the lines are to each other, the darker the value. The more gaps between the lines, the lighter the value.

Cross-hatching is similar to hatching, except that the lines intersect with each other.The more lines cross, the darker the value. Cross-hatching can be used with hard straight lines or cross-hatch lines to define the shape of an object.

Random Lines
Lines going in different directions can also be used to create pen and ink drawings. By changing the frequency of the line crossing, you can control the range of the produced value. Using this method can create different textures as well.

Stippling adds countless points to create drawing value.The higher the concentration of dots, the darker the value. The more space between the dots, the lighter the value. Mashing can be time-consuming, but it allows the artist complete control over the application of value, which can lead to highly realistic results.

Ink cleaning
Ink wash is the application of ink with a brush. Cleaning ink is very similar to painting with watercolor paint. The more water, the more intensive the use of ink. Therefore, the value is controlled by the amount of water added to the ink before it is applied to the surface.


There are various types of ink and ink drawing pens. Traditional ink pens consist of a shaft with a replaceable nib. These nibs serve as a temporary reservoir for ink. These pens are sometimes called dip pens because the user will dip them into the pads to extract the ink. Different feathers make different line widths. When using dip pens, it is recommended that you pull the pen to make marks as pressing the pen may cause splashing.Be sure to clean your nib after each session as dried Indian ink is difficult to remove.

Another type of ink and ink drawing pen is called a technical pen. Technical handles, unlike dip handles, allow you to move in different directions without fear of splashing. Some technical pens have a reservoir built into the pen that can be refilled with ink, while other technical pens are disposable. Reusable pens are more expensive, while disposable pens are logically cheaper.

Some pens used for drawing ink and ink have a brush. A variety of marks can be made with nibs that cannot be done with pens that have a specific nib or nib.

Pens and ink drawings are primarily created on different types of paper. The tooth or texture of the paper can affect the marks you make with the pen. Most artists prefer to work on smoother surfaces in order to create detailed ink drawings.Read more about drawing articles here.

Bristol Paper is a smooth, lettering paper that is heavier than regular drawing paper. Due to its characteristics, Bristol paper is a popular choice for pens and ink drawings. Another popular choice for ink drawings is a cold press board. Although cold press dental board is generally rougher than Bristol paper, the thickness of the board increases stability. Some artists combine ink and ink painting with other media such as watercolor.In these cases, the second environment can affect the selected surface.

Drawing pens are markers that come in all sizes of nibs that contain permanent pigment inks. The pigment makes them opaque when applied, making them suitable for projects for which regular ink pens won’t work. Coloring pens can paint over paint and photographs, on dark surfaces, and even on non-paper surfaces such as glass.

Coloring pens can be applied to a wide range of art styles in fine arts, prefer to paint or mainly work in paper crafts, drawing pens can be a powerful tool for creating your art.

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