Coloured felt sheets: Craft Felt Sheets for sale


Coloured Felt Ice Creams | Learning 4 Kids

Making your own Felt Ice Creams while learning your colours!!

This is such a fun hands on activity for kids to promote the learning of colours while playing creatively and making felt ice creams.

This activity involves kids to creatively stack coloured felt ice cream on top of felt cones and then label the colours with Velcro cards.  Read on to find out more and print your own!

What you will need?

You will need an assortment of coloured felt sheets, sharp scissors, a felt board (or carpet) and the Printable Ice Cream Template and Colour Labels (available below).  The ice cream and cone shape printable can be used as a guide for tracing and cutting the shapes out in the felt.  I printed the colour labels, cut them out, laminated them and then placed Velcro dots onto the back (rough Velcro side only) which allows them to stick onto the felt board.

Tip: The colour labels are able to be printed in colour as the font is written in the colour of the word to match.  If you can only print in black and white then you can write over the letters in the colour that matches the word.  This will help with matching the word to the coloured ice cream.

Click here to download and print your own: Printable Felt Ice Creams and Colour Labels Template

Useful Links:  Simple DIY Felt Boards at Home

Let’s Play

The fun with this activity is that kids get to play and pretend to make their own ice creams, layering the ice cream cones with how ever many or little coloured felt ice creams as they like.  Miss four made two felt ice creams but there were 4 cones available if she wanted to make more.  She played with and changed the order of her coloured felt ice creams before matching the colour labels.

This activity promotes reading even though the labels are written in the colour that it is, kids are seeing the written word and connecting the word to the colour.

Let’s Learn 

Learning Opportunities 

  • Literacy: Reading the written word with the colour.
  • Language skills: naming, labelling and discussions about what objects are made of certain colours.
  • Reinforce and extend learning about colours.
  • A sensory toy that involves touching, feeling and manipulating
  • Great for the imagination, make believe and role playing
  • Hands on learning
  • Fine motor development and hand – eye coordination
  • Spatial perception and exploration

Other Ice Cream Activities on Learning4kidsImaginative Play Ice Cream Shop

Available in our Online Shop 

Bulk 100 Pack of Coloured Felt

Mixed Felt Sheets Coloured Themes Pastel 10 Sheets Per Pack Toys & Games Craft Kits


Mixed Felt Sheets Coloured Themes Pastel 10 Sheets Per Pack

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Fabric Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets Crafts

Fabric Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets Crafts
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for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets Felt Squares, toy making and crafting,These felt squares are perfect for sewing, cutting,Shopping with Unbeatable Price,Browse From huge selection Here,all at the lowest prices, guaranteed! Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets Felt Squares for Felt Craft &, Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets.

cutting, unopened and undamaged item, See the seller’s listing for full details, Condition:: New: A brand-new, Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets, MPN: : Does Not Apply: Length/Amount: : Squares, unused, toy making and crafting, Suitable For: : Crafts: Material: : Felt, Unit of Sale: : Sheet, See all condition definitions : Colour: : Assorted Colours, These felt squares are perfect for sewing.

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Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets

Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets

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Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets
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Felt Squares for Felt Craft & Felting Large Assortment of Coloured Felt Sheets

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toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt Jewelry & Beauty Hat Making & Hair Crafts

toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt Jewelry & Beauty Hat Making & Hair Crafts

toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt,Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt toy making felt 100% Wool Felt,Top quality 100% pure merino wool felt in our best flesh tones, which would be great for toy making, Each piece measures 20x30cm (8×12) and is approximately 1-1,5mm thick, The colours included in this Nude pack are: Walnut Whip Creme Caramel Barbie Cheek Nougat This felt meets the European toy,Get the product you want,Fashion products,Satisfied shopping,Find your favorite product,High-end modern fashion,Best design and best workmanship. in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets

toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt

100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’. Top quality 100% pure merino wool felt in our best flesh tones, which would be great for toy making. Each piece measures 20x30cm (8×12) and is approximately 1-1.5mm thick. The colours included in this Nude pack are: Walnut Whip Creme Caramel Barbie Cheek Nougat This felt meets the European toy. Top quality 100% pure merino wool felt in our best flesh tones, which would be great for toy making. Each piece measures 20x30cm (8×12″) and is approximately 1-1.5mm thick. 。The colours included in this ‘Nude’ pack are:。Walnut Whip。Creme Caramel。Barbie。Cheek。Nougat。This felt meets the European toy standards and carries the Oeko-Tex ‘confidence in textiles’ mark, so it contains no nasty chemicals. 。Our 100% wool felt is made in Europe. It is super soft but is much stronger than the synthetic felts, which means your creations will last and last, without going bobbly and shiny. This felt cuts beautifully and works well in die cutting machines. It’s great to sew with, either by hand or with a machine. Cath Kidston recommends using 100% wool felt for the appliqué projects in her book ‘Make!’ and who are we to argue!。I try to show the felt colours as accurately as possible but because of different computer settings the colours may vary on different screens. Also, all pieces are cut by hand so are approximate (though I try my very best!).。If you’d rather have a different selection of colours please see my other listing where you can pick your own combo from a choice of 35 lovely colours.。Please note that I ship from the UK.。

toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt

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toy making felt 100% Wool Felt Sheets in skin tones ‘Nude’ collection flesh coloured felt

Top quality 100% pure merino wool felt in our best flesh tones, which would be great for toy making, Each piece measures 20x30cm (8×12) and is approximately 1-1,5mm thick, The colours included in this Nude pack are: Walnut Whip Creme Caramel Barbie Cheek Nougat This felt meets the European toy,Get the product you want,Fashion products,Satisfied shopping,Find your favorite product,High-end modern fashion,Best design and best workmanship. 90,000 Japanese Felt Doll Animals – Tame Animals. Animals with their own hands. – LiveJournal Suzuki (Yoo Moo) is a Japanese felt master. She often creates dolls out of wool and adds felt animals as accessories. Or she finds the plots of her works in Japanese fairy tales, cartoons, songs. She often conducts master classes of various difficulty levels for adults and children. She is amazingly good at showing characters through movement and gaze.

She also carefully chooses the background for photographing her work.Sometimes it’s just colored sheets or cloth, sometimes it’s a spread of a book.

The composition “Girl with a goat” was made for the winter issue of the “Kimono Tama” magazine.

Blog –

Flower bird. Felt toucan.
Artwork made for an exhibition dedicated to garden birds and flowers. Inspired by memories of Thailand, when flowers bloomed and birds were flying around.

Job for a traveler on camel safari in India.Most of all he was fascinated by their eyes, eyelashes.

Felt Penguin. Created under the impression of visiting an amusement park.

Felt reindeer.

Felt ram with colored horns.

Clothes for felt dolls are always sewn according to individual patterns.

A goat gentleman sits in a chair.

Lion in a chair.

Invitation to the next personal exhibition of felt works.

Blue felt horses. Made for the beginning of the Year of the Horse.

Work done at the start of the Year of the Sheep.

Felt bunny boys. The clothes are made of alpaca wool.

Felt Easter bunny.

Cute little rabbit with black shining eyes.

Felt Puss in Boots.

Bear, sofa and girl.

Japanese cat.

Big sister:

Younger sister:

Felted black bird from the manga “Nausicaa of the Valley of the Wind”. In this comic, people ride birds instead of horses.

A dream that has finally come true. For a long time I had to think about how to perform it better technically. Plus, it was scary to do something that could never be sold.

Felt peacock. Made in memory of the school peacock that Suzuki looked after as a child.

Felt red bird based on Japanese poetry. She eats red dried berries (made from coral beads). For the bird, cotton, woolen fabric and felt were used.

Felt owl brooch.

A woman walking on a warm summer night with a cricket.

Felt courageous wolf. The hat is made by wet felting.

Kittenko felt dog.

Felt works based on drawings by artist Higuchi Koko.

Cat-hero of the cartoon “GENJI Light” 1988

Felt fish made for the exhibition of talismans.These little creatures live deep in the ocean, sometimes surfing for fun.

Indian created for an exhibition dedicated to children’s songs.
The horse was difficult to do.

Felt bear from a nursery rhyme about a harmful bear cub. He is waiting for a fish near a puddle.

Felt tapir.

Materials prepared as a gift for the participants of the master class: wire, 8 types of colored wool, 10 types of A4 woolen fabric.

Some of the easiest works to study in master classes:

– Dalecarlian horse. You can make any color and size, the main thing is to observe the proportions.

– “Run, panda” felt brooch. Very, very simple. Besides, everyone loves pandas. There is not a single person who would be indifferent to them.

Secrets of making felt slippers with your own hands

Felt shoes are striking in their resistance to mechanical stress.In addition, it is very comfortable and warms your feet even in the most severe frost. Therefore, under the Soviet Union, felt boots were so highly valued. But why not create a more comfortable analogue for wearing at home with your own hands? “TapkiVip” will reveal to you the secret of making real home felt slippers. Our craftsmen carefully work on each of the models. That is why they are of the highest quality. Technologies for the production of home shoes from felt 2: wet and dry felting. Today we will talk about the dry felting technique, as the most optimal and simple version of needlework.

The first step is to carefully beat off the future workpiece, since the felt is obtained by adhesion of woolen fibers under the influence of the press and moisture. Felt sheets are available in overseas stores in a wide variety of colors. You are given the choice to create ordinary slippers or with an original design.

After preparation, you need to know the size of the feet of the future owner of the slippers.To do this, you should have data on the anatomy of the foot and the height of the heel counter. These measurements are taken on a sheet of A4 paper.

Start pattern
The received data can already be used for creation. Using scissors, cut out the details for the slippers according to the sketches and measurements obtained. You need to carve out the sole, heel and the tops of the slippers. We recommend that you leave some space for seam allowances.

The first step is to sew the heel and upper.This can be done with a needle and thread or a sewing machine to make it easier. And then we connect our workpiece tightly with the sole. Slippers can also be sewn in with colored threads in accordance with the author’s design idea.

Decorating handmade felt slippers

Decor elements can be very diverse. It all depends on the color preferences of the creator, as well as his creativity. TapkiVip offers a wide range of products that will satisfy the tastes of any person: from funny Angry Birds slippers to military-style slippers or with general’s stars.Inscriptions, patterns and other decorative elements are applied by hand, having previously created them from felt. This is your flight of fantasy. And if you plan to give them to a loved one, you should know about his tastes so as not to miscalculate with the style.

After decorating the slippers, they are ready. Have a nice cast-off!


  • Slippers made of felt are not too small, they are taken in size!

  • Valenki and felted slippers are selected along the length of the foot in cm!

Boots size = foot length (standing) + toe thickness.

1) Place your foot on a blank sheet of paper.

2) Mark the outer edges of the foot and measure the distance between the outermost points of the foot.

3) Your boots size in centimeters turned out.

4) If you wear felt boots on thick hand-knitted socks, then you need to add + 0.5 cm.

9028 9028 9028 9028 9028 9028 9028 9028 26cm 9028 2 9028 9028 9028
Foot size \ Size of boots 21 22.5 24 25.5 27 28.5 30 31.5 33 34 35 36 37 38 39-40 41-42 44 43 45 46 47 48
Stop in CM 13cm 9028 CM 14cm
Stop in CM
Stop in CM 17 cm 9028 18cm
Stop in CM
Stop in CM 20cm 9028 SM 21cm
Stop in SM 22cm
Stop in CM 902 83 24cm 25cm
Stop in CM
Stop in CM 27cm 9028 SM 28cm
Stop in CM 29cm
Stop in CM 31cm 9028 Cm 9028 32cm
Stop in CM 33cm
Stop in CM 34cm

  • How to choose the right size cap for your child?

The size of the cap corresponds to the circumference of the child’s head.

  • Mittens and gloves are selected according to the girth of the hand.

what are the types of plasters, types of work

General information about plastering works

Plastering – this is work on the application of leveling and protective coatings. These coatings can be based on a binder of hydraulic and air hardening. They are applied to the external and internal surfaces of building structural elements.First of all, plaster is needed to hide the inaccuracies of the masonry, to close the seams. That is, it’s just decoration. The second task of plastering is more practical. It serves as insulation against moisture penetration, improves the sound and heat insulation properties of the wall. If the surface is wooden, then plaster also serves as fire protection.

Decorative plaster in our catalog:

distinguish two types of plastering works – external and internal.

Walls made of bricks, of small-sized other materials, of large-porous sandless stone are finished with plaster, if without plaster the air permeability of these walls does not meet the standards that are currently defined by SNiP. Plaster is also used in the repair of buildings, the walls of which were previously plastered; plaster is used if different areas are made of different materials; for finishing window and door slopes, plinths; plaster can be used as a fire protection, replacing it with a cladding made of non-combustible materials, if it is impossible or simply impractical to apply them.Walls near ventilation or smoke holes are also finished with plaster.

History of the composition of plaster and dry building mixtures

At the beginning of the 20th century, dry building mixtures (abbreviated – CCC) were called mixtures of a binder (it could be lime, cement or gypsum) and sand. They were called “gartsovka” These mixtures could only be applied in a thick layer – 10-20 mm – because if the layer was thinner, then the material sucked out water and the mixtures became non-plastic, it was impossible to work with them further, the plaster simply fell off.Also, their disadvantage was that the cement-sand mixtures were good in compression, but they did not work well in bending, stretching. They also adhered poorly to low-absorbent substrates.

The situation changed dramatically in 1912 due to the fact that in Germany the chemical concern “Hoechst” found a way to obtain cellulose, which absorbed and retained water very well.

And already in the 20s of the last century, mass production of cellulose ethers began, which at the moment are the main components of the SS.

Plastering tools

Let’s take a look at the tools that come in handy when plastering at home. First of all, you will need a trowel (fig. 1) to level and compact the plasterboard. It consists of a canvas and a pen. For its production, polyurethane foam is most often used. You rub the surface of the plaster layer with a grater. Sometimes, for this purpose, a half-trowel is again used, but already metal or rubber.Or a trowel (Fig. 2) To transfer the plaster from the container in which we mixed it, we use a falcon (Fig. 3). We use it to level the plaster layer.

To apply the solution to the surface to be plastered, the master can use a plastering trowel, a plastering trowel or a trowel. They can be different in form:

  1. Trapezoidal (Fig. 4). This is the finisher’s trowel
  2. Triangular (Fig. 5). This is a concrete worker’s trowel.
  3. Teardrop (Fig. 6) This is a plaster trowel.
  4. Corner trowel. (fig. 7) This trowel is used for finishing inside and outside corners.
  5. The technician uses a suture trowel to close fine seams. (Fig. 8)
  6. If the surface is too large and a lot of mortar needs to be applied at once, a plastering bucket can be used. (Fig. 9)
  7. The tool, which resembles a bay leaf in shape, has several names – cut, plaster knife, small plaster spatula.(fig. 10) This is a canvas that is used to embroider the seams, to correct them. They also clean shells and cracks.
  8. Tools such as a scraper and a putty knife (fig. 11) are used by the craftsman to free the surface of the coating that was previously applied to it. In addition, a spatula is used to apply the filler.

If you need to apply a primer or other solution, the technician can use rollers, brushes and many other tools.Also, in work, you cannot do without a box for mortar, a cord, a plumb line, a reinforcing front corner, a building hydraulic level, a fiberglass mesh and much more.

Plasters on various binders

To be considered good, mineral plaster must necessarily meet a number of requirements:

  1. It should adhere well to the substrate.
  2. Poorly absorbing and repelling water.
  3. It must have a high degree of vapor permeability.
  4. It must be resistant to mechanical and weather influences.

Depending on which binders are used, different types of plasters can be distinguished: lime, cement, gypsum-lime and gopes. In DIN 1850 there is the following definition of plaster “plaster is a coating applied in the form of a mortar to walls and ceilings in one or more layers of a certain thickness, which reaches its final properties only after curing on the substrate”.

Plastering layers

Monolithic plaster consists of several layers. Their technological sequence depends on the type of plaster. The first layer is called the spray layer. It must be applied with a plastering bucket and is approximately 8-9 mm. It is not necessary to apply this layer with a plastering trowel, because in this case the desired adhesion to the base is not achieved. In terms of thickness, this layer should be approximately like thick sour cream. It is applied by abruptly throwing the mortar out of the plaster bucket from the same distance.The second layer is applied after the spray has set. This layer is called soil. It is applied in the same way as spray spray from a plastering bucket. But this layer should be more thick, pasty. Its thickness should not exceed 20 mm, as if the layer is thicker, it will not adhere well. After applying the solution, the excess must be removed. The excess solution is removed by the rule. Movements are made from bottom to top in a zigzag manner. Usually, alignment alone is not enough. The excess solution that is collected on the rule is dumped back into the box and the alignment continues.Leveling is done with a scraper until the surface is almost smooth. Not perfectly smooth, because the cover layer will still have to adhere to it. If the primer layer should not be thick, 5-6 mm, then it is not thrown over with a bucket, but applied with a trowel. Keep in mind that if the surface of the base is smooth and hard, then it is not worth applying with a trowel, because the applied layer adheres to the base worse than the thrown one. The last layer is cover. Its thickness is no more than 2 mm and it is applied to a rough primer layer after the latter has set.Then it is carefully rubbed and smoothed. The master applies the solution with a trowel on a wooden scraper and already applies it to the surface of the primer layer. The solution is applied in zigzag movements, trying to apply evenly over the entire surface, rubbing as much as possible with a trowel, and then smoothing it with steel or plastic floats. Rub the cover layer while it is still wet. To do this, the grater is pressed tightly to the surface and the grout is done in a circular motion.The excess is cut off and falls into the recesses in which there was not enough solution. The top coat is the finish, so grouting must be done carefully. Can be carried out at the end with a wet brush. There is also a so-called decorative covering layer. Its thickness is no more than 7 mm. It is applied with a wide spatula or, as an option, with a Swiss float (Fig. 12).

Preparation of surfaces for plastering

In order for the plaster to be strong and last for a long time, first of all, it is necessary to ideally prepare the surface of the base.All work is aimed at increasing adhesion. This can be done in different ways:

  1. You can use the mechanical method (chop the surface).
  2. Can be physico-chemical (primed)
  3. It is possible to create a supporting frame (rake packing)

But first, you should evaluate the quality of the already existing foundation.

New stone, brick and concrete surfaces

If the masonry is rough and you can see that there is dust on it, it needs to be cleaned.To do this, you can sweep with a hard broom, rinse with water. Seams, if they are filled with mortar, must be cleaned of at least 1 cm of it. When the surface is dry from water, you can apply a penetrating primer to it. If you have to deal with concrete elements, then it is enough to clean them from dust and rinse with water. After that, it is worth either applying a primer or scoring the surface. In the event that the concrete was made in planed wooden or metal formwork, then it is necessary to incise it.Particularly dirty places will have to be cleaned with steel brushes, if possible, you can simply cut them down and apply a special primer for concrete “Concrete-contact” This primer has a very high adhesion ability, so the plaster can be applied directly to it. The surfaces that have been unplastered for more than a year and are heavily soiled must also be mechanically treated. After cutting, they should also be primed. Particular attention should be paid to areas contaminated with clay or painted with oil paint.If the surface has already been plastered before, then it should be carefully inspected. If, when tapping, you hear a “bubbling” sound, it means that the plaster in this place has peeled off. Be sure to remove it. On the contrary, simple scratches on the surface should be left. They will increase the adhesion of the surface. If you notice that microorganisms have developed in any area, treat this area with special care. If the damage is minor, simply clean the area with a wire brush and rinse with water.If they are too strong, remove this area of ​​the plaster completely. In any case, you must treat the affected area with a special fungipid preparation.

Wood preparation

If you have to plaster a wooden surface, prepare the shit for it first. Shing is a base made of 3 -5 mm thick wooden slats. The shit is divided into simple (lower) and exit (upper). The thicker and even shit will go for the weekend, for the bottom one is also suitable for thin, curved or narrow.The chisel width should be 15-20 mm. No more and no less. Because if the shit is thinner than 15, it will split when nails are driven, if it is wider than 20mm, then it can get wet, deform and ruin the plaster. The thickness of the forgiven tear should not be less than 3 mm, so that when an exit tear is applied to it, voids are formed between them. These voids will subsequently be filled with a solution that adheres well to the exit shingles. You should not use especially thick shit, because the thicker the shit, the thicker the layer of plaster should be.At an angle of 45 degrees. firstly, prostrate rows are nailed to the floor, the exit shit is nailed onto them. The tilt angle remains the same. The shingles additionally hold the individual planks of wooden surfaces together, thereby increasing the rigidity of the wall. It is recommended to make the distance between the simple rows of shingles on the walls 45 x 45 mm, on the ceilings 40 x 40 mm. On top of the chipping at the protruding corners of the wooden structure, reinforce the strips of steel mesh, the width of which should be 15-20 cm, to strengthen the corners. If the surfaces to be plastered were made of different materials, then the places of their conjugation with a metal mesh should be upholstered.The mesh should extend on both sides by 4-5 cm.

Surface marking

Naturally, the plastered surface must be flat. To achieve this, so-called beacons are used. These are guides made of gypsum mortar that are applied to the surface. Beacons are made as follows. At the corners of the wall from below and from above, nails are hammered, which recede from the surface of the wall by 3 cm.Then, between these nails, the cords are pulled horizontally, vertically and diagonally.The cord should retreat from the surface by 18 mm, but in no place should it approach the wall closer than 8 mm. Plaster marks with a height of 15 mm and above are made under the cord. When hanging the wall, the first nail is driven in at a distance of 30-40 cm from the corner and the ceiling. Above the surface of the wall, the nail should protrude to a height equal to the thickness of the future plaster. A plumb line is applied and suspended to the head of the nail. In the lower part of the wall, at a height of 250 mm from the floor, a second nail is driven in so that its head touches the cord.Depending on how high the room is, intermediate nails are driven along the cord. Do the same on the opposite side of the wall.

Next, pull the cord diagonally. If you see that the cord touches the wall in some place or the thickness of the plaster is too small, then the top nail should be hammered in taking into account the minimum thickness of the plaster. If there are small irregularities somewhere, you can simply cut them down. Then the fixing is repeated and new nails are hammered.Following the same, we determine the level and drive intermediate nails horizontally. Thus, the nails, protruding, show us the thickness of the plaster in one place or another. Plaster marks are arranged around the nails. We coat the nails with plaster mortar and level the top mark at the level of the nail head, after which we give it the shape of tetrahedral pyramid marks. Ceilings are also hung, only instead of a plumb line, you can use a building level. If it is impossible to hammer nails into the ceiling, plaster stamps can be made instead.The sequence is the same as when driving nails.

By stamps, beacons are installed from plaster mortar. To do this, a rule or another flat rail is vertically applied to the stamps and fixed with plaster mortar. The space between the wall and the rule is filled with mortar. After the mortar has set, a strip remains on the wall surface equal to the width of the rule. In some cases, with small areas of the wall, two vertically installed wooden or metal slats are used as beacons.In this case, the length of the slats is selected so that they do not reach the ceiling and floor at a distance of 50 mm, and their thickness corresponds to the thickness of the plaster layer. In places where the rail does not adhere to the wall, the space between the rail and the wall is filled with mortar to avoid bending of the rail. As you may have noticed, installing brand lighthouses is unimaginably difficult and troublesome, so in our time it has practically been abandoned. Instead, another idea became widespread – the installation of beacon profiles.(fig. 15) On the contrary, this work is very fast, simple and convenient. On the surface that you are going to plaster, every 30 cm, a solution is dotted into which the beacon profiles are pressed. After that, according to the level rule (Fig. 16), they are aligned in one plane: vertical and horizontal. Please note that there must be at least three beacon rails on the width of the rule.

Plastering edges and corners is also a very difficult issue, since it is on them that all errors in work are especially noticeable.This can be done in two ways.

  1. You can simply attach a flat plank to the edge of the wall so that it protrudes above the wall onto the plaster layer. Then we plaster the wall so that the finishing layer of the plaster is in the same plane with the protruding edge of the board. After the plaster has hardened, the board must be carefully removed. It is better to reinforce the corners with a mesh or steel strip.
  2. You can do it even easier by applying the solution to the inside of the corner profiles in 20 cm increments.The profile is installed at the corners. We start from the center and move to the edges, making sure that the profile is in the same plane with the beacon profiles.
There are several types of corner profiles:
  1. Protective corner profile for plastering. In it, the edges of the corner are made with a special perforation, which forms a mesh. This allows thicker layers of plaster to be applied. (fig. 17)
  2. There is also a special corner profile for filler. It is also called a painting corner (Fig.18) There is the usual perforation. The arched corner also belongs to the same type (Fig. 19). Its difference is that it can bend, repeating spherical edges (both convex and concave).
  3. Another type of corner profile is a profile for the facade. It is distinguished by the presence of fiberglass mesh and is usually used for outdoor work.

Preparation of plaster mortar

Naturally, in order to plaster something, we need a solution. Let’s consider its preparation.First, fill the tank with water. It should be borne in mind that for 30 kg of dry mix, we need about 18 liters of clean water. We put 5-7 plaster trowels into a tank with water and mix thoroughly. Next, pour out all the plaster and mix with a construction mixer. As a result, you should get a completely homogeneous mass that does not contain any lumps. You can try stirring by hand, but you are unlikely to get a really good solution.

You need to know the following about the mixer.

  1. Plaster and paint mixers are available. For plastering solutions, the mixer blades are made of a rod (Fig. 20), and for painting mortars, the blades are planes (Fig. 21) These mixers should not be confused and try to replace one with another.
  2. The power of the mixing drill must be at least 650-700 V.
  3. Do not remove the mixer from the solution until it has come to a complete stop. You can add water or mixture while stirring, do it in several passes, maintaining intervals of five minutes.But you cannot add water or dry mixture to the solution that you are already applying to the surface. Also, do not add foreign components to the solution.


Once you’ve mixed the solution, start using it. You should use it in 20-25 minutes. If you are plastering the ceiling, then the solution should be applied with a plaster falcon “on yourself”. On the wall, you can throw the mortar with a trowel or spread it with a scraper from bottom to top.Then do not forget to level the solution with a trapezoidal rule or just a flat rail. Movements should be in a zigzag pattern. If the layer is to be thick, apply the first layer, while it is still soft, with a notched metal trowel or trowel (fig. 12). The second layer can be applied no earlier than in a day. If the size of the area to be plastered is small, then you can apply the solution with a trowel, then leveling it with a trowel. The bases made of DSP, expanded polystyrene must be plastered with reinforcement over the entire surface with a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 x 5 mm, which is sealed inside the plaster layer by a third of the thickness (Fig.28). The overlap of the mesh layers should be at least 10 cm (fig. 29).

Surface leveling

In 45-60 minutes after mixing the solution, it will begin to set. At this time, you should level the surface. This can be done with a wide metal spatula or simply with a metal strip, cutting off the excess and filling in the indentations. On corners and slopes, you should work using corner trowels (fig. 30)


If you are preparing the surface for wallpapering or for painting, then soak the plaster for about 15 minutes, and then moisten it abundantly with water and rub in a circular motion.You can use a tough felt or tough sponge trowel for grouting. This is done to remove marks after leveling the surface with a strip or rule.

Surface smoothing

Smoothing the surface is the final touch before wallpapering. It is worth smoothing the surface some time after grouting, when the surface has already become dull. This can be done with broad strokes using a wide spatula or a stainless steel float.After the surface is dry, you can safely glue wallpaper on it. They will hold up well. If you need a glossy surface for painting, then after 2.5 – 3 hours after mixing the solution, the plaster must be moistened again with water and thoroughly smoothed with a metal float.

Surface structuring

Depending on your desires, you can structure the surface. It can be made with drawing or texture. To do this, you must roll the surface that has not yet hardened with a relief roller or give it the desired structure using a forming tool (Fig.31) or a trowel, stiff brush.

If you are working on a façade surface, you can give it the desired texture with the air gun for plastering (fig. 32)

Types of decorative plaster

Decorative (structural) plaster

If you want the plastered surface to be decorated in an original way, you can use not only special floats, rollers and other devices, but also the structural plaster itself.Structural plaster for walls contains various structural additives – “grains”. They are different in size, so they are called coarse or fine-grained. The surface treated with such plasters also looks different. If the plaster was fine-grained, then the surface is almost even. Coarse grains create a more voluminous pattern. It can look like transverse or longitudinal circular grooves. Such a pattern is different, because plaster can also be applied in different ways: with a roller, a spatula and even a spray.Structural plaster is always white on the market, but you can easily fix it. First, you can simply buy the pigment of the color you want and add it at home. Just be very careful not to add too much of it. And secondly, you can make a professional tinting in stores that sell plaster and pigment.

Structural plasters have many advantages:

  • They can be used to plaster any surface, be it brick, wood, drywall, etc.d.
  • They are good at hiding surface imperfections if the latter, for example, has any cracks or bulges.
  • Structural plasters are waterproof. This means they can be washed.
  • They can withstand a very large temperature range – from -50 to + 50C.
  • Since they are porous, the walls can “breathe”.
  • They are resistant to mechanical stress.
  • Considerable plus their price. Of all the decorative ones, they are the most affordable.
  • They are durable.
  • They are highly flexible and allow you to create a variety of reliefs.
Decorative plaster application

Preparing the wall. As with any plaster, the surface must be dry and clean, but it does not have to be perfectly flat, because the plaster itself will level the surface due to its relief. Of course, there should not be large indentations, like protrusions. Priming can be done with absolutely any primer solutions.Plastering. It is necessary to apply the plaster only after the primer has dried. It can be applied in different ways and with tools, it all depends on what surface you need. To see the scratched grooves on the wall, you must take a fine-grained plaster with the addition of natural stone granules or just coarse grains. It is better to apply with a textured roller. If you want the wall to look like natural stone, apply coarse plaster in a circular motion with a trowel.

“Venetian” plaster

One of the types of decorative plaster is Venetian plaster, it is fundamentally different from all that we described here earlier. To get the desired effect, it is not enough just to apply the solution to the surface, it is imperative to do it correctly. This plaster contains marble flour, slaked lime and water emulsion. When you look at the coating, treated with “Venetian” plaster, it seems that it is made of transparent marble.Columns and cornices are decorated with “Venetian” plaster. But in order to create such a miracle, you really have to be a master of your craft. You can find “Venetian” plaster on sale in a ready-made liquid form. It is sold in cans or buckets. It should be applied on a perfectly flat, clean surface. Do not forget that this material is transparent, so all surface errors will be visible at a glance. This plaster can also be tinted with any color, but professionals advise mixing several shades of the same color.This will make the surface even better and will look more like marble.

To achieve the desired transparency and depth of coverage, it is necessary to apply from 4 to 10 layers of plaster. It is applied using a special technique, with small strokes with a triangular spatula or with special trowels. (fig. 33) After the wall is dry, it should be covered with natural beeswax. This is done in order to protect the coating. The wax is completely transparent and does not affect the color. True, there is also such a “Venetian” plaster on sale, which does not need to be covered with anything.Everything is already included in its composition.

Venetian plaster has its advantages:

  • There is a wide range of colors;
  • It has a marbled effect
  • It can be used to create “marble” Mosaic effect
  • It is waterproof. It can be washed and cleaned without fear that it will dissolve.
Application steps

Surface preparation. The surface must be perfect in every way. There should be no irregularities, no dirt and dust on it. It must be dry. After this condition is met, you apply several coats of a special primer. You can apply one coat of vinyl (acrylic) paint instead of a primer.

Application of “Venetian” plaster. You can start working as soon as you see that the primer is dry. This work is very meticulous.The coating is applied very carefully with a spatula. Large strokes can be applied with trowels. So that there are no irregularities, each layer is allowed to dry and after that it is cleaned. The first layers can be applied with a wide one, while the last ones are best applied with a narrow trowel. About 20 minutes after you have applied the last coat, you can start sanding the surface. This is best done with fine sandpaper in a circular motion. You should not use varnishes when working with “Venetian” plaster, as the surface can become cloudy from them and the plaster will lose its main advantage – beautiful transparency.

Colored plaster “stone chips”

Stone chips are real small stones that are mixed with adhesives and bonding materials. Stone chips can be multi-colored, but in any case, each color consists of several shades. Stone chips are applied with a spatula to the surface and leveled evenly over it. If you are going to finish the facade, then you better take large stone chips, especially for finishing the basement. If you have internal work ahead, it is better to take small crumbs.There are quartz, marble and granite chips. Stone chips perfectly tolerate any weather conditions.

Although this coating is considered heavy, since it includes interspersed natural stones, it still has a number of advantages:

  • It is particularly resistant to mechanical stress.
  • Hydro-, heat- and frost-resistant.
  • Very durable.
  • It can be applied to concrete and aerated concrete.
  • Perfectly hides any surface irregularities.
  • Due to its porosity, it allows the surface to be applied to “breathe”.
Application steps

Surface preparation … As always, the wall should be clean and dry.

Priming … Any paint can be used for priming.

Application of colored stone chips … To make the mass less thick and easier to apply, you can add a little water to it.Then mix the mixture very well. It is better to apply the crumb by throwing it on the wall and spreading it with movements from top to bottom. Remove excess material with a spatula. Keep in mind that the crumb can wear off, so do not run the spatula over it more than 2 times. The plastered surface dries for at least 6 hours.

Varnish application … After two weeks, you can varnish the surface. This will keep the crumb brighter over time.

Plaster for the oven.Compositions of solutions

Despite the fact that most houses now have centralized heating, there is still a demand for masonry stoves. Firstly, they are still often found in villages, and secondly, houses are often decorated with fireplaces. Since the surface of the stoves is special, the plastering of the stoves is associated with a special technology. This plaster must be able to withstand high enough temperatures. Below we list compounds that can be used when plastering a oven. …

  1. One part of gypsum, two parts of lime paste, one part of sand, 0.2 part of asbestos No. 6-7.
  2. One part of clay, one part of lime paste, two parts of sand, 0.1 part of asbestos No. 6-7.
  3. One part of clay, two parts of sand, 0.1 part of asbestos No. 6-7.
  4. One part of clay, one part of cement, two parts of sand, 0.1 part of asbestos No. 6-7.

All dry ingredients must be mixed together and then added water.The mixture should be thick enough. Asbestos is added to give the plaster its strength.

See also on this topic:
Article “Decorative plaster: creating masterpieces”.

The World of Paints is a trading network that unites more than 60 retail outlets for the sale of paints and varnishes and related products, as well as an online store with the possibility of delivery in Moscow and the Moscow region. You can always buy decorative plaster from us.


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