Saint Laurent Men’s: Spring Summer 22 Review
Saint Laurent / Spring/Summer 2022 / La Certosa, Venice, Italy
Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello pitched up in Venice for his latest rock and roll roadshow, dodging the main tourist area’s bustling crowds for a small island (complete with Doug Aitken installation) in the lagoon. When showing at such picturesque locations, I sometimes think the grandeur can make the clothing feel like a footnote. But that’s not something you need to worry about with Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent, where the sheer sex appeal of what’s coming down the runway will inevitably draw in the eye. How low should one go when it comes to leaving shirt buttons undone? Going by this effort, there is no such thing as having too much flesh exposed.
Let’s get it straight: these models don’t really exist in real life. At least not for most of us. They’re the guitar heroes that used to live inside the NME, the red-blooded frontman who swaggers onto the main stage at Glastonbury before tearing into a big fuck off solo. The whole gesamtkunstwerk is pure fantasy, which is why Saint Laurent has proved to be one of the most successful brands in the Kering stable over the years. It’s hard to think of another luxury brand that operates with the same comforting consistency. For devotees, I imagine it’s like going to the same restaurant over and over because the food is solid and you know what you’re going to get.
This time around, there was a discernible smattering of Victorian-era gothic flair. Vaccarello is only too aware that when using antiquated affectations such as pussy bows and ruffles, there’s always a risk of falling into deep cheese territory. Yet this mostly worked (admittedly, one or two looks felt more “circus master” than Lenny Kravitz). There was plenty of gauze and shiny suits that hit just the right note of game show host chic, while die-hard followers will be satisfied with the by-now expected haul of winkle pickers, leather pants, and jackets.
Black and white contrasts are created by pleated trousers worn high waisted with chunky belts and blousy tank tops and shirts.
The idea of the [Doug Aitken structure] is about the desire to look at the future without forgetting the past and the history and same is for the collection which is mixing past and present projecting it into the future. The process is a mutual understanding of each other and that’s where the communication becomes very easy and spontaneous.
Highsnobiety’s Shopping List
Big, crazy cape
The year is 2030, and a Van Helsing reboot has somehow been green-lit. In this spiffy installment, the costumes are made by Saint Laurent and the man himself is played by Brandon Flowers.
Lettuce hem shirt
Manic Pixie Dream Boyism is a thing, and it lives inside this delicious Peter Pan collar.
(Deep) purple two-piece
The Joker gave up torturing innocent folk and now hustles as an undeniably well-dressed pool shark down the local. He’s looking well these days.
Suit and ruffled shirt
BRB, going on a Huel diet in a desperate bid to fit into this suit by next year.
YSL Tote Bag Honest Review
This YSL Tote Bag is absolutely one of my most used bags in the full closet of bags. As a twin mom, I used this bag as a diaper bag when my twins got old enough not to carry around a full diaper bag. It’s chic but at the same time so versatile for so many occasions. But is it worth buying a YSL tote bag? Since you’re going to pay $950 to $1150 for this bag, It’s your right to make a thorough search and review
YSL Tote Bag Review
Saint Laurent Tote Bag Review – The Conclusion
I absolutely love my YSL tote bag. Highly recommend city girls, moms and professionals who need to carry their devices around.
Disclaimer: If you decided to buy the bag with one of my links, I might earn a commission via my affiliate links. I appreciate it a lot if you can support me this way to create more reviews like this.
The bag is quite big and comes with adjustable straps that can be easily worn over your shoulders. The metals on adjust buckles are bronze-toned and There is an old school YSL logo and also attached coin purse that you can put your keys or phone to this separated part.
Is YSL Tote Bag good quality?
I think this Saint Laurent Tote bag is one of the most quality bags I have ever owned. I haven’t had any problems so far. It has been a year since I purchased this bag. And I carried two worlds on top of mine. As I mentioned earlier, I used to use this bag as a stylish diaper bag for my twins. The bag is definitely worn after my harsh use, yet still no visible signs of that harsh use. I think The Italian quality shows it. (Even though YSL is a French fashion house, this bag was made in Italy.)
Do YSL Tote Bags Hold Their Value?
I think It is. YSL Bags are in general have a higher resale value. But for this bag particularly, you should probably buy for you to use it regularly but not really for to sell later on.
When I purchased this bag, the price was $950. I see now. It’s $1050. That’s why I gave it 4 stars. But In fact, so many luxury brands raised their prices last year due to Corona Pandemic. They stayed unopened for so long; They might think this is the way to cover their unexpected close store time
But I love the bag so much even with this rise in the price, I still can buy this bag blink of an eye. I remember I wanted to buy this bag 3-4 years ago for the first time. But I changed my mind last minute because yeah, It’s a lot of money. Instead, I go with a Mango bag which cost me $60 but was unusable in 3 months. The shoulder straps started to split from the stitches. So sometimes It’s better to splurge on things that are quality and last long.
Is Saint Laurent Tote Bag Stylish?
I have to admit, I don’t find tote bags stylish in general. But this YSL bag has such a significant and sharp black colour, It always looks so sleek and chic. You won’t regret buying this bag because It looks really really quality, and minimalist and always a chic addition to your casual looks.
You can always style this bag with white button-downs and jeans and sneakers. Perfect for running errands, for young and stylish moms.
Does YSL Tote Bag Have a Good Size?
This bag is huge. If you are looking for a roomy bag but also a chicness, this must be your first choice. I carry diapers, wipes, extra clothes for twins etc., and my own purse, make up bag, keys, iPad at the same time.
I also use this separator to see everything more organized. Even if you don’t use this organizer, the bag still holds its shape, won’t gone weird.
I hope you enjoy my YSL Tote Bag Honest Review. Please take a look some of my other favourite Saint Laurent bags. You can also my Gucci Soho Disco Bag Review.
Recommend These Saint Laurent Bags with Best Reviews
SOLFERINO MEDIUM SATCHEL IN BOX SAINT LAURENT LEATHER – $2800
SHOP NOWKATE 99 WITH TASSEL IN SUEDE AND SMOOTH LEATHER – $1750
KAIA MEDIUM SATCHEL IN CROCODILE-EMBOSSED NUBUCK – $1950
MANHATTAN MEDIUM SHOPPING BAG IN BOX SAINT LAURENT LEATHER – $2990
CASSANDRA MONOGRAM CLASP BAG IN CANVAS AND SMOOTH LEATHER – $2350
UPTOWN MEDIUM TOTE IN GRAIN DE POUDRE EMBOSSED LEATHER – $2450
15 Incredibly Chic Items To Monogram And Make Your Own
Monograms have been in style since ancient times—first appearing on early Greek and Roman coins, which often featured the initials of rulers or the first two letters of a city or town. In the Victorian era, monograms became status symbols and an expensive way to mark one’s personal belongings, such as dress shirts, family linens and even underwear. To add some flair to luggage, French leather makers Louis Vuitton and Goyard started stamping their steamer trunks with their branded monograms in the mid-1800s, giving rise to the monogram-as-fashion-logo mania that countless design houses have adopted over the years, from Chanel to Tory Burch.
Mix and match from eight designs and colors to create your own unique set, each customizable with … [+] shadow-printed letters.
Mark & Graham
Today, the craze for monogramming hasn’t faded a bit. With the pandemic boom in virtual shopping, personalizing your goods is a way to make something ordinary more one-of-a-kind. Valerie Macaulay, co-founder and chief creative officer of the fashion label La Ligne, has noticed a considerable uptick in demand for personalization recently—the brand’s monogram sales shot up 300 percent last month when it offered limited-edition monogramming for its Marin stripped sweater range. “Monogramming anything naturally makes the item more special and thoughtful,” says Macaulay. “Putting your initials on something makes it stand out and elevates its status in your wardrobe. You have added your own personal brand to it, as if this item was made just for you.”
Traditionally, a monogram consists of three letters: Your first, middle and last initial. If you’re married or coupled up, old-school etiquette suggests that the woman’s initial comes first, followed by the initial of the couple’s last name in the middle, and then the husband’s initial last. Clearly, though, we’re no longer living in the 19th century and anything goes—you can do any combination of letters, a hashtag or social media tag. The point is to get creative and have fun. Similarly, the options for what you can monogram—for yourself or others as gifts—have expanded beyond starched shirts and dinner napkins into more unexpected, quirkier goods. Depending on whether you want to play it discrete or make a statement, you can personalize everything from lipstick cases to athleisure sneakers to cheerful picnic plates in tiny or supersized letters, script or shadow fonts—and even make your letters (stylishly) glow in the dark, if you’re into that kind of thing. Still, you probably don’t want to monogram everything you own—or else nothing feels special—so focus on items of good quality that will last and that you won’t tire of.
Here, 15 well-made and creatively-inspired goods you can put your personal mark on.
Not Your Average Striped Tee
In addition to sweaters, La Ligne offers monogramming on lighter tees, including this updated version of the classic French striped Breton shirt. Your choice of up to three letters will be finished with a slash mark—a modern take on the old-school tradition of crossing out your name on stationery as a sign of familiarity.
The Lasts-Forever Toiletry Bags
Handmade in Argentina with responsibly tanned, pebbled leather, this set includes a small and larger-size toiletry case—both which can be monogrammed in gold foil with either up to three or eight letters, depending on your type size.
The Bespoke It Bag
Edie Parker’s boxy acrylic clutches are sized to fit any iPhone and can be personalized in four to five weeks with 16 characters in a variety of fun font styles (from block to cursive to slanted race car) and an array of 19 different text colors, including an intriguing glow-in-the-dark option—perfect for when socializing after dark picks up again.
The Statement-Making Lipstick
Make the act of slicking on your YSL lipstick even chicer with an engraved case that bears your initials, a 14-character message or motif (lips, star, heart). You can also pick your cap design (chose from gold, leopard, floral and more prints), all complementary.
Eighteenth-century Italian porcelain maker Ginori has a long history of making plates, dishes and tableware for stylish tastemakers (Gucci recently acquired the brand and Alessandro Michele now oversees the artistic direction). This set of mugs can be decorated with any two letters and makes drinking your morning coffee feel super fancy.
The French Fragrance With Your Name On It
In a nod to the fashion house’s legacy of monogramming, you can now customize any of Louis Vuitton 100 or 200 milliliter women’s and men’s fragrances—gratis—from the dewy floral Rose des Vents to the smoky patchouli leaf Orage. Choose up to three letters or numbers to be etched in gold or plain type on the bottle, which is refillable in stores.
The Ballet Flats That Inspire Shoe Gazing
If rounded ballet flats are a little predictable and seen-everywhere, consider this graphic, square-toe option, crafted from breathable leather and customizable with a hand-painted monogram. Pick your letters, font, size and color, and your flats will arrive in two to three weeks.
A Notebook For Your Personal Brand
There are lots of traditional (boring) notebooks you can monogram, but few are as stylish and upbeat as this pick. Choose from six different color ways, three types of paper (lined, plain, dotted), a soft or hardbound cover, and your preferred phrase or initials, which can be printed on the front and the back, too.
Guest Soaps You’ll Want to Use Every Day
In a year marked by a lot of hand-washing, this set of six, triple-milled, vegetable-based soaps adds some joy into the daily chore, and moisturizes your skin while you’re at it.
Very Entertaining Plates
Stylishly plate your hot dogs, hamburgers, and coleslaw at your next picnic or summer barbeque with these chip-free, sturdy melamine options, which also make a thoughtful hostess gift. Mix and match from eight designs and colors to create your own unique set, each customizable with shadow-printed letters.
The Bracelet With a Personalized Twist
A more artistic take on the traditional monogram bracelet, this 14-karat yellow gold-filled twisted wire can be sculpted with up to five letters, and is delicate enough to wear every day.
Covetable Beach Cabana Towels
Keep everyone’s towels separate poolside and at beach hangs with these cheerful, Turkish cotton towels, which are woven with a spinning technique that allows air to pass through the fibers for a highly absorbent and soft result.
These aren’t the first personalized sneakers, but they might be the most unique. Super comfy and lightweight, this tie-dyed pair offers a variety of options for customization—you can choose three letters, your name or a single letter, in 17 different font styles.
The Lip Balm You’ll Never Lose
This Paris-based apothecary brand specializes in modern formulations of old-world beauty products. Inside, the emollient but non-greasy lip balm is packed with healing botanical oils and, outside, the case can be customized in 14 different finishes and embossed with up to three letters, including a heart character if you like.
A Stylish Upgrade to the Ordinary iPod Case
Wrapped in grainy leather and available in both standard and limited-edition colors, this airpod case holder keeps your buds safe and secure for travel and charging. You can have two letters or symbols—choose from a half-moon or heart—complimentary embossed on the front in either silver or gold.
The Perfect Overnight Bag
This briefcase doubles as a chic weekend bag, made from durable canvas with stylish contrast-leather trim. Conveniently, there’s a shoulder strap and handles for easy transport, and you can personalize the front with your initials, free of charge. Other bespoke touches involve a fee and include embossing your name on the top and putting a handwritten message on the key cover.
Shop ‘Sex and the City’ reboot outfits on curated Instagram page
We couldn’t help but wonder … Would the fashions from the “Sex and the City” reboot fill the stilettos of the original?
Just a week after some of the first photos from “And Just Like That…” dropped, fashionistas flocked to the internet to find dupes of the designer looks. Since the show is a reboot of the timeless and fashion-filled “Sex and the City,” the photos from the HBO Max revival series did not disappoint.
One of those fashion-driven fans was a 23-year-old fashion student from Ukraine named Victoria Bazalinchuk, or better known on Instagram as @justlikethatcloset. Only a few days after the promotional photos came out, her brand-new account already has more than 17,500 followers — and the cast’s attention.
“Creating this account, I wouldn’t even have imagined it to grow so fast and get lots of recognition, even by the actors,” Bazalinchuk told The Post. “The first to notice my account was Sarah Jessica Parker. She watched my stories and replied to one of them. Then Willie Garson reposted my post, as well as Nicole Ari Parker, who also followed me. All of them, including Kristin Davis, occasionally watch my stories.”
The show follows writer Carrie Bradshaw, played by Parker, as well as attorney Miranda Hobbes (Cynthia Nixon) and prim Charlotte York (played by Davis). But one of the other main stars of the new series is costume designer Molly Rogers, who is credited as the mastermind behind all of the looks.
Rogers, who took over for long-time “SATC” costume designer Patricia Field, is no stranger to the “SATC” set, having won an Emmy for Outstanding Costumes for Season 3 of the “Sex and the City” television show. She has also worked on “Sex and the City: The Movie” and “Sex and the City 2,” in addition to other iconic fashion flicks like 2009’s “Confessions of a Shopaholic” and 2006’s “The Devil Wears Prada. ”
‘Creating this account, I wouldn’t even have imagined it to grow so fast and get lots of recognition, even by the actors.’
While you will just have to wait until later to watch the 10-part series on HBO Max — the premiere date is not yet announced — you can still start shopping right now, thanks to some amazing sleuthing by Bazalinchuk and her followers, with items found at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and other designer stores found below.
“I knew there is a rush around ‘SATC’ fashion, and this time I didn’t want to make people wait because by the time the show airs, most of the clothes will be sold out and I know how upsetting that might be,” explained Bazalinchuk. “Knowing brand’s DNA and having basic knowledge in fashion helps a lot, and some brands have reached out to me with the products they sent to the costume design team. My followers themselves are also willing to help me out when I can’t find a particular item, and I once got a message from a person with an exact piece which I had gotten wrong. ”
Send Bazalinchuk a direct message on Instagram if you want to join her fashion detective department or browse the ever-growing look-book. But for those just wanting to shop, keep scrolling for some of the exact pieces from the upcoming show.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
Reboot or original, Sarah Jessica Parker knows how to accessorize.
Get her two-toned turquoise necklace while it’s still in stock, found at Matches Fashion’s site. The Fry Powers necklace is made of turquoise and malachite, the latter of the two said to promote mood-lifting feelings. That can also be accomplished by a good shopping trip.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
After spending a night with Mr. Big, throw on one of his oversized dress shirts and call in an outfit.
The shirt seen on SJP is actually a men’s polo, sold on the Ralph Lauren site. You can add the classic white one to your cart first, but then check out the other colors as well for an effortless look that Carrie would be proud of.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
No outfit is complete without a pair of amazing shoes.
Sarah Jessica Parker was spotted on set in these YSL sandals, currently still available in limited quantities on the Saks Fifth Avenue site. The rainbow straps are perfect for summer, and the black heel helps to blend the shoe into any outfit.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
Combine all the class of Charlotte with just a bit of added sass and you have this top.
The polka-dot blouse was tracked down and found to be a Carolina Herrera number, sold at Saks Fifth Avenue with an array of sizes still in stock. Even better news for fans — the top is now on sale for over 50% off, sold for $436, down from the original $1,090.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
There’s nothing better than a little black dress. Well, except for maybe a little black bag to go with it.
Get Charlotte’s Dior handbag, seen on actress Kristin Davis as she steps out of a car in style on the set. The mini purse is made of patent leather and is still currently sold on the Dior site while supplies last.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
Don’t you just adore Dior?
Charlotte does, as the brand evokes class and poise and, of course, a whole lot of fashion. Paired with the blouse and purse above, these shoes are a must-have — and, lucky for us, they are still in stock on the Dior site.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
Miranda is practical, direct and fashion-forward, in both the original show and the reboot.
Get her tailored look with these amazing white slacks from Vince. which also happen to be on sale. Available in limited sizing, the belted pants are now just $138, down from the original $345.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
A nude heel is a wardrobe staple, so why not base yours off of the iconic Miranda?
Actress Cynthia Nixon was spotted on set in these amazing shoes, which were then found to be Manolos, of course. They can still be found at Neiman Marcus, sold in the nude shade, as well as in black.
@justlikethatcloset via Instagram
Complete Miranda’s full outfit with the plaid top seen on the set of the new show — but with a slight twist.
While the Instagram account found the orange version, we think we got a bit closer to the original seen on Cynthia Nixon. Sold at Saks Fifth Avenue, we tracked down a nude version of the plaid blouse, complete with the arm button detailing and cuffs. Better yet, the top is now on sale for $398, down from the original price of $995.
Saint Laurent Spring 2022 Menswear Collection
Venice in a world of reemergence is, if possible, even more miraculous than ever, with dolphins sighted gamboling in the laguna and very few tourists around to admire them. Triumphantly, that fragile lagoon was recently declared a national monument, and at the same time the Italian government finally announced a ban on the controversial cruise ships that overpowered the city while seeming to bring it little financial benefit.
With the city’s winding lanes and piazzas relatively empty, and even the pavilions in the Giardini, (hosting national offerings for the Venice Architecture Biennale uniting under the theme How Will We Live Together?) not exactly overwhelmed with visitors, an army of very slender wraiths, confettied with tattoos, bristling with attitude, and wafting around the city’s fabled landscape, seemed even more conspicuous. These proved to be the models and brand icons of Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent, in town to walk, stomp, twirl, and glide the runway in the designer’s persuasively eclectic collection (although body diversity, it seems, is not yet a part of the dialogue in the menswear realm).
In keeping with the city’s current focus on the possibilities of architecture, Vaccarello collaborated with the genre defying artist and filmmaker Doug Aitken (who won the International Prize at the 1999 Venice Biennale) on an environment to showcase his collection. Aitken created Green Lens, an amazing mirror-faceted structure that was assembled in a month on the Isola della Certosa, and planted with hot house jungle greenery. It serves as a response to the question posed by the Biennale, harmoniously blending futurism with the natural landscape.
“All the sets of Saint Laurent I’ve always done myself in a way,” Vaccarello explained, at the magical post-show dinner set in the roofless ruin of an old brick structure on the island, “so it was nice to share a concept for the first time with an artist who I truly admire, and it was fun. That concept was supposed to be for the women’s show last year,” Vaccarello added, “and because of the pandemic we pushed it to now. In the end it made more sense to have it in Venice than in Paris, especially with the Architecture Biennale—and with that collection, which is a mix of a lot of influence of Saint Laurent and a lot of Venetian ‘New Romanticism.’ Not putting them into the historical, classical Venetian way, but in a futuristic environment. I think after COVID you want to look more into the future than the past—and I like that mix of the past in the references in the clothes, and the future in the setting. ” During the fast-paced show the structure reflected the blue skies, dusk light, and dappled lagoon waters while Aitken’s lighting transformed the mood from moment to moment, suggesting by turns a flaming sunset or a glacial blue Scandinavian dawn. Refracted in those mirrors, Vaccarello’s tribe strode forth in lean jackets or billowing piratical blouses (think Adam Ant and Britain’s early 1980s New Romantics), and cigarette-leg pants with winkle picker ankle boots extending the slender silhouette further still.
Every Look From Saint Laurent Men’s Spring/Summer 2022
Anthony Vaccarello has unleashed Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2022 Menswear collection. The show, which was set on the island of Isola Della Certosa in Venice Italy, is a celebration of nature and creativity.
Vaccarello commissioned artist, Doug Aitken for the Green Lens experimental installation that provided the show’s backdrop. The large-scale installation faceted with large mirrors and various forms of plant life is a gateway between us and the environment in a world where nature is empowered, creativity is championed, and our pst weight lifts off and encourages us to be inspiring.
“Green Lens is a living artwork. It is both an artwork, installation, and stage. It’s like a lighthouse, that one can journey to and have a very personal experience, while it also transmits light, ideas, and questions. A focal point that allows all of us to share our ideas and visions for the future post-Covid…a celebration and inquiry into the future,” Aitken said in a statement.
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Vaccarello’s inspiration for Saint Laurent’s latest collection was the collaboration of fashion and art. “Saint Laurent’s cult iconography always combined creative disciplines across art and fashion. Through those collaborations, I want to merge different fields’ artistic visions in unique artwork,” Vaccarello said in a statement.
The collection prides a ’70s aesthetic that is signature for Saint Laurent. Consisting of ruffled collars, billowing shirts unbuttoned all the way down (all the way), and dainty bow ties, the looks play into a Rock ‘n’ Roll-ready gothic Victorian-era style. Elsewhere, Vaccarello looks into the fabrics that conjure an image of Venetian decor: rich velvet, jacquards, and delicate lace sticking to a palette of jewel-tones like royal purple and goldenrod. Though the city of Venice is over 1,200 years old, Vaccarello envisions the primeval city through a modern lens in his most recent collection.
View every look from Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection for Saint Laurent below.
Best Budget-Friendly Men’s T-Shirts For 2019
That’s right, it’s t-shirt time again! As we’ve discussed in the past, t-shirts are a critical essential wardrobe item, no matter what time of year it is. You can wear them on their own, layer them and wear them casually or dressed up. Now that it has warmed up it’s the perfect time for us to share all of our favorite picks for The Best Budget-Friendly T-Shirts For 2019!
For more t-shirt basics, don’t forget to check out our Essential T-Shirt Guide and our T-Shirt Fit Guide.
Uniqlo – $9.90 or 2 for $17.90
Great fit overall and, like all things Uniqlo, we loved the quality for the price.
J. Crew Mercantile – $14.99
We didn’t really love the overall fit as it was quite roomy in the body and sleeves but for those of you broader guys or those who carry a little bit more room around the middle, this would probably a great option for you.
Topman – $10 or 2 for $16
We weren’t big fans of the roomy fit, which almost fits a size up from what’s listed, and material quality which was quite thin.
H&M – $6.99
An ultra-budget option, the H&M t-shirt was quite thin and had some fit issues in weird places, like a tight armpit and billowy sleeves as well as a very long body.
Zara – $17.90
At almost $18 we weren’t fans of the expensive price and firmly believe that t-shirts aren’t really something men should spend a lot on. The fit was quite tight around the middle and almost tapered in the body, so not the best fit, even for tall, slim guys. Fabric-wise, it had a weird stretch composition that we didn’t like and, overall, this was our least favorite of the bunch.
Banana Republic – $18
Another fairly expensive option, we did think that this option had a pretty good fit, despite a few issues with the sleeve width. If you’re a more athletic guy with bigger arms this would probably be a great option for you.
Express – $22.90
While on the trim side, the overall fit was pretty good. Our biggest problem with this option was the price, at $23, it was just too expensive.
The Winner: Uniqlo
By far our favorite of the bunch, the combination of fit, price, and quality made it tops in our book.
Dorian’s Outfit Details & Sizing
Shirt Size: Medium
Jean Size: 32×32
Height/Weight: 6’3” 185lbs
Watch – Rolex Submariner Date
Check your email to verify!
Shirts – Brandcollector
90,000 Buro 24/7 Review: Saint Laurent Spring / Summer 2016
Judging by the tiaras that Hedi Slimane this time picked up to his invariably grungy looks, Courtney Love has again become his main muse. And the main character of the show turned out to be Agness Dein, who unexpectedly for everyone made a model comeback on the Saint Laurent show
Although it’s time to get used to it, the very idea that at the Saint Laurent show (that same great house! That same great Willow!) We see scanty combinations, large panties shining through them and, for example, camouflage shirts, can still be sickening to many. But in this case, it is better to immediately look not at full-length photographs, but close-ups: it is on close-ups that all the beauty of what Edi Slimane does for the brand from season to season becomes obvious.Simple and cheap things that can be found in Topshop and at any flea market (and this, according to many, for inspiration, is exactly what Slimane himself trades in), he reproduces with a skill worthy of luxurious couture outfits. He collects shirts from fine threads of tiny sequins, incredible shimmering fringes, amazing delicacy of lace. High rubber and leather boots that look like simple “hunters” are decorated with embroidery and shiny studs. From as if randomly collected scraps, jeans sew stunning capes, in which every line and every corner are verified.Even a tattered T-shirt, strewn with small holes and clues, if you look closely, it turns out to be almost a work of art. What can we say about long dresses made of leather and lace, even if they fit even crookedly and crookedly on the models: there are panties that immediately lower the level of splendor by a hundred points, here the straps are twisted and the fabric slides out, as if accidentally exposing the chest. In order to artistically recreate this flashy cheapness, the illusion that all these are just some things that you can go to any mass market, the masters of the Saint Laurent house throw all their energy – and this is a wonderful move that works.
Eternal negligence and bruising, deliberate inconsistency, an abundance of naked bodies and tiaras remind us not only of the former grunge princess Courtney Love. Again, a second picture is drawn in my head, more touching. It seems that all this is an illustration of that very walk of no shame, which has been talked about recently, especially thanks to not Love, but to the heroine of absolutely no Sliman – Amber Rose. Along with jeans and denim skirts, brutal sweatshirts with tigers and wrinkled shirts, those very combinations and long “sliding” dresses with jackets on top are especially striking.What else is this, if not a typical outfit in the morning after the ball, when the streets are filled with yesterday’s beauty queens, graduates and birthday girls, who still have crowns on their disheveled heads, but their beautiful dresses are pretty worn out?
90,000 Sheep with dressing People have worn cheap sheepskin coats for centuries. Why did they become fashionable ?: Phenomena: Values: Lenta.ru
Lenta.ru continues a series of publications about the history of different types of clothing and the manner of wearing it. In the previous articles of the cycle, it was about stilettos, a mini-skirt, a man’s dress, a suit, a tie, tights and a down jacket. This time – the story of the transformation of a practical sheepskin coat into a fashionable sheepskin coat.
Sheepskin coat – clothing closest to what our primitive ancestors wore: clothes made of coarse skins. However, the clothing made of tanned sheepskin is far removed from the primitive clothing of the people of the Stone Age.There are several differences, and they are all fundamental.
First of all, the sheepskin appeared in wide use when people domesticated the sheep. This marks a shift from hunting and gathering to livestock and farming. Among the tribes of pastoralists, for example, the inhabitants of Ancient Palestine, sheep herds were the main wealth. But farmers, whose main source of food were cultivated grains, kept cows and sheep, if there was enough forage. Sheep were a source of food and hides for clothing.
Secondly, the development of material culture has led to the development of technology for processing skins and fur.The word “sheepskin coat” itself indicates the type of this treatment – tanning. The skin removed from the animal and cleaned from the remnants of muscle and fat was treated with a tanning compound. The most ancient of them were substances of plant origin, obtained from the leaves of some trees – in our latitudes of the oak, hence the name. The hide was then mechanically processed to make it softer. Further processing of the hide increased its price.
One of the confirmations of the early spread of clothing with sheepskin sleeves with fur inside is its discovery by Soviet archaeologists in a burial near Minusinsk in the Krasnoyarsk Territory.The study of the find led experts to the conclusion that the item was sewn about two thousand years ago. Since then, the technology, cut and appearance of the sheepskin coat have not changed much.
In the old days, the cheapest version of sheepskin clothing was a peasant sheepskin coat, or “bare fur coat”, sewn from unpainted skins with the “bare” side up, and the fur inside. They were also often called “shrouds” – “skin out”. Clothes made from dyed sheepskin, such as natural dirty yellow to brown or black, were more expensive.Even more costly were clothes made of elaborate sheepskin covered with colored cloth, satin, or even brocade. The final price depended on the cost of the fabric and decoration (embroidery and the like). The richest peasants embroidered a festive sheepskin coat with metal plaques, colored threads and wore them on special occasions even in summer.
Even well-tanned sheepskin skins were thick and rather coarse. Therefore, a sheepskin coat (in modern terms, a long-skinned sheepskin coat) remained mainly the clothing of men who worked a lot in the open air in the cold season, for example, coachmen. They spent on the road all daylight hours, and sometimes part of the night. They needed very warm clothes, almost a “spacesuit”.
Naked sheepskin coats were such “spacesuits”. Few clothes could compete with them for keeping warm. “Sheepskin coats” of the coachmen were sewn with long, voluminous, with very wide collars, which could be raised at the back and tightly wrapped in the front, protecting themselves from the wind in the field or steppe. The longest, floor-length, sheepskin coats were sewn and given out to the watchmen and soldiers of the guard service, so that they would not freeze at the post.
Women were less likely to leave the house for a long time in winter, so their sheepskin coats or jackets were shorter. For example, in the southern regions of Ukraine, fitted casings were widespread just below the waist or to the middle of the thighs. They were tied with a colored belt and worn with several skirts: a woolen top (in some localities it was called “ponevoy”) and a linen bottom. An expensive women’s sheepskin coat could be brightly embroidered with colored woolen threads and trimmed along the collar and edge with more valuable fur, for example, squirrel.Moldovans and Moldovans in their even warmer climates wore sheepskin sleeveless jackets, also often decorated with embroidery.
Emperor Peter I, who ruled in the first quarter of the 18th century, actively fought against many manifestations of “non-Europeanism” among his subjects, but did not object to sheepskin coats. In the conditions of severe Russian and especially Siberian frosts, this would be madness. However, Peter decided to improve them and standardized the sewing of military sheepskin coats. In the city of Romanov, a special breed of sheep was specially bred, “on the skin”, which was called “Romanov”.The wool of this breed of sheep is very thick, dense and not wavy, therefore it retains heat perfectly.
Romanov became the center for the production of high-quality sheepskin coats and gave the name to the expensive “Romanov sheepskin coat”, or “Romanov fur coat” from the local sheepskin. The Romanov short fur coat was distinguished by a rather complex cut with a detachable waist, a three-piece back and gathers below the waist. It was not covered with cloth. Zippered shelf for protection from the wind was fastened with hooks. The collar could be stand-up or turn-down.A short fur coat was often trimmed with more expensive fur: astrakhan fur, squirrel – along the collar, edges of sleeves, sides, hem and pockets, decorated with embossing and embroidery with woolen thread in one or two colors.
The Romanov sheepskin coat, despite the name consonant with the royal surname, was the clothing of a wealthy common people: merchants, clerks, rich peasants. The nobles wore them in their country estates and estates for winter riding or sledding or hunting.
Practical and very warm clothing was appreciated by the military.The short fur coat did not immediately become uniform, but was widely used in the Russian army even during the First World War. It was worn by front-line officers, civilians from among the zemstvo and city employees, military medical personnel: doctors and nurses. Uniform sheepskin coats were often called bekesh. This name was retained after the revolution. For the red commanders, the Hungarian word “bekesha” sounded more politically correct than the “Romanov sheepskin coat” associated with the ousted royal family. Later, a short “pilot’s” sheepskin coat became part of the uniform of pilots of all armies: in winter it was impossible to fly in an unheated unheated cockpit without warm clothing.
European winters were not as severe as Russian ones, so in the 19th and first half of the 20th centuries, sheepskin coats were worn there only by the mountaineers. However, by the middle of the last century, the situation had changed. Rapidly changing fashion demanded creativity from designers. They looked for inspiration in exotic countries.
At the end of the 1960s, urban clothing in Europe and North America was finally and very clearly divided into formal classic and informal casual. In the latter, thanks to the hippie movement, the boho style was gaining more and more strength: free, uninhibited, with catchy ethnic motives. Tanned sheepskin coats trimmed with goat fur and embroidery became a real find for this style. In the USSR they called them “Afghani sheepskin coats”.
Even famous pop stars have not passed the hobby for “hippie” outerwear. Thus, the entire Beatles took part in the photo shoot in Afghan sheepskin coats, and John Lennon starred in it in The Magical Mystery Tour. On the contrary, those who were attracted not by the hippie-pacifist, but by the militarist aesthetics wore short pilot’s sheepskin coats. This is one of the most popular things of the 20th century, still in trend: now they are produced by fashion houses.In such a sheepskin coat, you can see, for example, a fashionable instagram blogger or rapper.
Actress Anouk Eme became the real brand ambassador of the sheepskin coat in the cinema. In Claude Lelouch’s cult film “Man and Woman”, her character wears a thin, dark, tight-fitting sheepskin coat with a small collar and characteristic trefoil-shaped toggle closures, like the Dolomanes of the Hungarian hussars.
Another cut of the sheepskin coat fashionable in the early 1970s was called the “princess” (in English – Heepskin Princess Coat).These were long, fitted models with fluffy fur trimming along the hem, sides, collar and sleeve edges, sometimes tied with a belt. Most often they were beige or sandy in color.
In the Soviet Union, all fashionable girls dreamed of having such a sheepskin coat. All the representatives of the Soviet establishment had them. The main fashion designer of the USSR, Slava Zaitsev, created various variations of sheepskin coats for his collections, which were taken to shows abroad (mainly to the countries of the socialist camp), which only increased their popularity in not the coldest European countries.In 1984, at the opening parade of the Sarajevo Olympics, the Soviet team entered the stadium in gray sheepskin coats and sheepskin hats, which looked quite elegant.
The struggle of the “greens” from the organization for the protection of animal rights PETA with the producers and consumers of natural fur began at the end of the last century, but reached particular strength and intensity in the 2000-2010s. The reason for this is the common fascination of Europeans and Americans with ethical consumption and production, conservation of nature, and similar socially important things.
The popularity of sheepskin coats, which significantly decreased in the 1980s – a “glamorous” decade when wealthy women wore expensive furs even in summer – began to win back positions back in the 1990s, when they were released on the catwalk by Calvin Klein (by the way, taking pilot’s sheepskin coat). In the 2010s, the sheepskin coat is again in favor. Now, for appearing at a gala event in New York or Los Angeles in sables or mink, you can be doused from head to toe with red paint and branded with shame in the media and the Internet.
Sheepskin coats do not cause such a violent reaction among animal rights activists. While lamb is an important part of the diet of many millions of the world’s inhabitants, sheep will be raised and slaughtered. And from the point of view of both ecological consumption and simple practicality, there is no reason to destroy the skins. Unlike minks, arctic foxes and sables, which are bred solely for the sake of fur, sheep will still be kept regardless of whether women of fashion buy sheepskin coats or not. However, for the most environmentally friendly there are synthetic sheepskin coats: they can be found in almost all mass-market brands, for example, H&M or Mango.
In the 2010s, Mongolian sheepskin coats made of thin, plastic short-piled sheepskin of local production became especially popular. They are light and warm at the same time. This material allows you to work with sheepskin as with some kind of innovative material. “The big plus of sheepskin coats is that it opens up the possibility for stylistic experiments,” explains Russian fashion designer Svetlana Tegin, who regularly produces sheepskin coats in her collections under the Tegin brand. “This season sheepskin coats are very popular: everyone is tired of exaggerated volumes, hypertrophied silhouettes and ugly fashion.”
Fashionable sheepskin coats are also produced by Western fashion houses, for example, they were in the assortment of Chloé, Marni, Saint Laurent, Off-White, Emporio Armani, The Row, Tod’s and others. They are worn by supermodels and Instagram stars: Kendall Jenner, Kim Kardashian and others. Thus, all fashionable girls who are tired of eco-friendly down jackets, and the fur of “poor animals” is unacceptable for ethical reasons, can dress fashionably and warmly even in the cold Russian winter.
The brand’s designer, Estelle Oryland, has previously worked at fashion houses such as Chloe, Yves Saint Laurent, Marni and Stella McCartney.The models of bags are named after Estelle’s daughter and friends, and the source of inspiration is the times of travel and pleasant meetings.
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90,000 “Where to eat?”: The most unusual restaurants in the world
Many travelers not only visit interesting places, get acquainted with the culture and traditions of other countries, but also do not mind eating national dishes.The pleasure of this process is no less than the pleasure of the trip itself. For those who do not want to be satisfied with only cuisine, but love something exotic, we have collected several truly unusual restaurants, which will offer you not only delicious food, but also surprise you with an original interior. And somewhere and additional services.
Ithaa Undersea Restaurant, Maldives
What could be more unusual than a dinner under water, and even in the company of fish? It’s hard to beat. Ithaa Undersea Restaurant, located on Rangali Island at a depth of five meters in the Indian Ocean, attracts thousands of tourists to its “underwater world” who book tables a month in advance. In total, there are 7 small tables for two in the institution, that is, only 14 people can eat here at the same time. The restaurant is part of the tourist complex Hilton Maldives Resort and Spa – one of the most expensive in the Maldives. For entrance to Ithaa Undersea Restaurant you will have to pay $ 120 per person, and for a standard three-course dinner for two – $ 300-400.The restaurant’s menu is quite varied, there are seafood, fish, vegetables. For safety reasons, Ithaa Undersea Restaurant is only 20 years old and will be closed in 2025, so don’t hesitate to visit.
Rising Sun, China
An unusual institution is located in the Chinese town of Nanjing. At first glance, everything here is like in standard restaurants. The interior is quite ordinary, the menu is also standard, but . .. It is allowed to beat the waiters here.The Rising Sun was discovered by a certain Gong Wu. After a trip to Japan, the man was shocked by the behavior of local residents towards service personnel. Returning to his homeland in China, Gong decided to earn extra money from angry visitors. In the Rising Sun restaurant, it is allowed to hit the waiter, get nasty at him, yell at him, throw cutlery at him. Services, of course, are paid and vary from $ 8 to $ 50, depending on the wishes of the clients for torture. The waiters in the restaurant are exclusively men aged 20 to 30 years old with excellent physical and psychological preparation.Most of the visitors are women. Apparently, they come here to take out their anger at the moment when some man has offended them.
The Labassin Waterfall, Philippines
A unique restaurant located in the picturesque Philippine jungle. Here, every visitor can enjoy the national cuisine, clean air, birdsong and the murmur of a waterfall. By the way, The Labassin Waterfall is located just under the waterfall. Visitors to the establishment can not only eat, but also go rafting, lie on the tributaries of the waterfall, enjoying the scenery, feel calm, serenity and solitude with nature.There is no dress code in The Labassin Waterfall, you can come here either in a T-shirt or without it. And the main feature is that you need to sit at the tables without shoes, because instead of an ordinary floor, there is cool waterfall water that will wash your feet. The atmosphere in the restaurant is so peaceful that visitors don’t even notice they get soaked through. They are so imbued with the atmosphere of the establishment that they cannot even charge the owners for their wet clothes.
Dinner In The Sky Brussels
If you are tired of earthly vanity and want something unusual, welcome to heaven.In the literal sense of the word. Dinner In The Sky is located on a platform 50 meters from the ground. The platform is raised by a special crane. All restaurant guests wear four seat belts – this is the main condition. There is only one table in the restaurant and it is designed for 22 people. Dinner In The Sky can be translated anywhere on earth. By the way, the restaurant is not just hanging in the air, but spinning. Not much, but visitors are already horrified by the fact that they are eating “between heaven and earth.”According to the staff, visitors drink more than they eat in an effort to relieve fear. So if you like extreme sports and are not afraid of heights, go to Brussels.
Dick’s Last Resort, USA
This is not one restaurant, but an American chain of unusual establishments. The interior is very awkward, sloppy and cheap. Instead of chairs, benches, there are no tablecloths on the tables, the menu is written in clumsy handwriting. Well, and most importantly, the staff here is not required to be polite to visitors, on the contrary, they can call you the very last words, make a joke in a not very pleasant way, sprinkle sugar or salt, throw a napkin. Also, each guest is assigned an offensive white cap, on which some obscenity is written. The cuisine in the restaurant is American, here you will find sandwiches, burgers, steaks, pork ribs, salads.
Caution, the entrance is exclusively for children. Yes, you will say that there are a lot of restaurants for children in Russia, why go to Amsterdam? Children also work only in Kinderkookkafe. How do you like that? The waiters here are children under 12 years old, children also prepare food, of course, under the supervision of an adult chef, at the entrance you will be met by a friendly child-administrator who will lead you to the table.Parents of young employees are not against their work and are confident that it will prepare them for adulthood, teach them to value money and become more responsible. Children are not offended here, and visitors are generous with tips, because how can you not leave a tip to such a nice, helpful and kind staff?
Vampire Cafe, Japan
Ready for a true vampire horror movie? With the Japanese restaurant Vampire Cafe, this is quite possible. The institution is stylized as the castle of the legendary Count Dracula: crimson tones, coffins instead of tables, darkness, an abundance of candles, cold, an abundance of skulls and crosses, a talking skeleton, fluttering bats, mirrors, an alarming environment.Even the dishes here are stylized as “death”, so don’t be surprised if you find an eyeball, nail, bone or something else interesting in your dessert. Baroque music adds color and creepiness. And only the waiters are as calm as possible, doing their job, not paying attention to alarmed visitors. Why alarmed? The Japanese have created a very believable legend that the Vampire Cafe employs real vampires. Getting here is tantamount to death. Nobody knows if you will come out as an ordinary person.But this is just a legend. Or is it not?
Photo source: Gettyimages; Shutterstock; Press service archives
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