Cats bottle: Bottle Feeding Kittens | Best Friends Animal Society


Bottle Feeding Kittens | Best Friends Animal Society

This resource provides instructions for caring for bottle-feeding kittens (“bottle babies”) – very young kittens who have been abandoned or orphaned. It includes information on feeding, weaning, medical care, developmental milestones and more.

Table of Contents
1.) Warmth and bedding
2.) Feeding
3.) Weaning
4.) Weight and hydration
5.) Elimination and litter box training
6.) A clean kitten is a happy kitten
7.) Medical care
8.) Kittens’ developmental milestones
9.) Loving care

Warmth and bedding

For their safety, bottle babies should be kept in a cat carrier when you are not feeding or caring for them. The kittens must be kept warm. Use a heating pad designed and approved for pets (such as a K&H or Snugglesafe pet bed warmer), wrapped in two or three layers of towels. The top layer of bedding can also be a soft fleece blanket instead of a towel. Make sure the carrier is large enough for the kittens to have an area to move away from the heating pad if they are too warm. Kittens will need the heating pad until they are 3 to 4 weeks old.

Cover the carrier with a towel or blanket and keep it in a warm, draft-free room, securely away from other pets. Check the bedding several times a day for messes. Bedding should be changed at least once a day, more often if the kittens soil the bedding.

A kitten’s ideal body temperature is 100 to 102 degrees. A kitten who feels cold and is unresponsive should be warmed immediately. Never attempt to feed a cold kitten. Place the kitten on an approved heating pad safely wrapped in two or three layers of towels. Turn the kitten side to side every 5 minutes. To stimulate blood flow, you may, ever so gently, massage the kitten with hand-rubbing. If the kitten does not respond within 20 to 30 minutes, contact your medical staff immediately.

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Do not feed cow’s milk to kittens, as it does not have the proper nutrition for them. Cow’s milk will also cause diarrhea, a possibly life-threatening condition for young kittens. Only feed your kittens an approved kitten formula. Hoskins, a homemade formula, is ideal. You may also use KMR, a powdered commercial formula. The recipe for Hoskins and instructions for mixing KMR are below.

Hoskins formula

3 oz. goat’s milk
3 oz. water
4 oz. plain full-fat yogurt
3 egg yolks
The formula will be good for about 48 hours if refrigerated. If the formula has been left out of the refrigerator for more than 2 hours, it must be discarded.


KMR powdered formula

Use 1 part formula to 2 parts water. A part is whatever you are using to measure with. For example, if you’re using a tablespoon for measuring, this would mean 1 tablespoon of powdered KMR and 2 tablespoons of water.

Formula that has been in the refrigerator must be warmed to just above room temperature. Place the bottle in a bowl of shallow water, then heat in the microwave for 10 seconds. Or you may place the bottle in a bowl of hot water for a few minutes. If mixing up fresh KMR powder formula, use warm water. Before feeding the kittens, always test the temperature of the formula by placing a few drops on your inner wrist to be sure it is not too hot. Always wash your hands well with soap and water before and after feeding the kittens. Bottles should be cleaned thoroughly before each use.

When bottle nipples are brand new, you will need to cut a hole in the top. Cut an X in the tip of the nipple using small, sharp scissors. Or you can burn a hole in the nipple using a large needle. Heat the needle with a match, then poke it through the nipple tip. It may take a few attempts to make the hole the correct size. Once the hole is made, test it by placing the nipple on a bottle of formula and turning the bottle upside down. The formula should drip slowly out of the hole. If the hole is too big, the kittens will ingest too much formula too fast; if it is too small, they will have to work harder to eat and won’t eat as much as they should.

To prevent the possibility of spreading viruses between the kittens and other pets in your house, keep a “kitten gown” (a robe, sweatshirt, etc.) in the kittens’ room to wear during feeding and handling of the kittens. You may also wear gloves if you wish, and remember to always wash your hands well before and after feeding your bottle babies.

Never feed a kitten on his back. The kitten should be on his stomach in a position similar to how he would lay next to his mother to nurse. You may try holding the kitten upright swaddled in a warm towel or have the kitten lay on a towel in your lap. Experiment with what position works best for you and the kitten.

Turn the bottle upside down and allow a drop of formula to come out. Place the bottle nipple in the kitten’s mouth and gently move it back and forth, holding the bottle at a 45-degree angle to keep air from getting into the kitten’s stomach. This movement should encourage the kitten to start eating. If at first you don’t succeed, wait a few minutes and try again. Usually the kitten will latch on and begin to suckle. If the bottle appears to be collapsing, gently remove the nipple from the kitten’s mouth and let more air return to the bottle.

Allow the kitten to suckle at his own pace. If a kitten refuses to suckle, try stroking the kitten’s back or gently rubbing her on her forehead. This stroking is similar to momma cat’s cleaning and it may stimulate the kitten to nurse. If this doesn’t work, try rubbing some Karo Syrup on the kitten’s lips. If the kitten still doesn’t want to nurse, contact your medical staff immediately.

Do not attempt to feed a kitten who is chilled because it can have serious health consequences. Try warming the kitten as described above. If you are unable to warm the kitten, contact your medical staff immediately.

A kitten should eat about 8 milliliters (mls) of formula per ounce of body weight per day. For example, a kitten who weighs 4 ounces should eat about 32 mls of formula per day. To determine how much to give at each feeding, divide the total amount of formula per day by the number of feedings. For example, if you’re going to feed 32 mls per day and do 7 feedings per day (approximately every three hours), that would mean giving 4.5 mls per feeding.

Nursing bottles are marked with measurements, so it’s easy to know how much you’re feeding the kittens. Please note that some bottles use ml for measurement, some use cubic centimeters (cc). They are the same: 1 cc = 1 ml.

Using a kitchen or small postal scale, weigh the kittens daily to calculate the amount of formula they need. Keep a log listing daily weights and amount of formula consumed at each feeding.

Newborn kittens, up to 1 week old, should be fed every 2-3 hours; by 2 weeks old, every 4-6 hours. Once they are 3 weeks old, they can be fed every 4 to 6 hours. Continue to follow the rule of 8 mls of formula per ounce of body weight per day, as described above, to determine the amount of food the kitten should be eating.

If you are feeding multiple kittens, feed the first kitten until he stops nursing, then begin feeding the next kitten, and so on. Once you have fed all the kittens, feed the first kitten again and repeat with all the kittens. Usually one to three nursing turns will suffice. When a kitten stops nursing, he/she has had enough. Do not overfeed the kittens because it can cause loose stools and diarrhea. A well-fed kitten’s belly should be round, but not hard and distended. Smaller or weaker kittens may eat less per feeding and will need to be fed more often.

Kittens need to be burped, just like human babies. Lay the kitten on his stomach, on your shoulder or in your lap, and very gently pat his back until you hear a little burp. You may need to burp a couple times per feeding.

Young kittens may suckle on each other. This is a normal thing, but make sure they aren’t damaging the fur or skin of the littermate they are suckling on. If the suckling is causing problems, you should separate the kittens.

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Weaning may begin at 3 ½ to 4 weeks of age. Start by offering the kittens formula on a spoon. Once they are lapping off the spoon, try putting some formula in a saucer. As they master lapping up the formula out of the saucer, you can gradually add a small amount of canned food to the formula in the saucer, making a gruel. Increase the amount of canned food slowly, adding more food and less formula. Some kittens catch on right away, others may take a few days. To be sure the kittens are getting enough food, you may need to continue bottle feeding them a few times a day, until they are eating well on their own. Be sure to feed them what they need to be full, but don’t overfeed them.

Monitor the kittens’ stools to make sure they are tolerating and digesting the gruel mix well. If the kittens have loose stools, reduce the amount of canned food and increase the formula until their systems have adjusted. As the kittens adjust to the gruel mix and you are adding more canned food to their diet, you can also add more water to the formula mix. If you are using KMR formula, add an extra measure of water when preparing the formula. Instead of 1 part formula to 2 parts water, mix 1 part formula to 3 or 4 parts water. For the Hoskins formula, you may add an extra ounce of water to the recipe.

As the kittens eat more food and less formula, you will need to have a bowl of fresh water available to them at all times to keep them well hydrated. At this time, you may also add dry food to their diet. Add some of the watered-down formula mix to the dry food to entice the kittens to eat it. Gradually reduce the formula and let them eat the food dry. Again, keep watch on the kittens’ stools to make sure they are tolerating the food well. If diarrhea or constipation persists with the change in diet, contact your medical staff.

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Weight and hydration

Weigh your kittens daily, preferably at the same time each day, using a kitchen or postal scale. Kittens should gain about ½ ounce every day or 3 to 4 ounces per week. By 8 weeks, most kittens weigh about 2 pounds. Enter their daily weights in the logbook. If the kittens are not gaining weight or are losing weight, contact your medical staff right away.

A well-fed kitten should be properly hydrated. To test a kitten’s hydration, pull up on the skin at the scruff of the neck. The skin should bounce back easily. If it doesn’t bounce back, or goes back down slowly, the kitten may be dehydrated. If the kitten appears dehydrated, contact your medical staff.

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Elimination and litter box training

Young kittens cannot eliminate on their own. A momma cat will clean her kittens, stimulating them to urinate and have a bowel movement. As their human caregiver, you now have the honor of performing this duty. After each feeding, use a warm, moist cotton ball, tissue or soft cloth to gently rub and clean the kitten’s lower belly, genital and anal area. The kitten should begin eliminating within a minute. Kittens should urinate after each feeding and have a bowel movement one to four times a day. Do not continue to rub the kitten for more than a minute or so, since this could irritate their delicate skin. Gently wash the kitten after she is done eliminating using a clean, damp, soft cloth. Record the kittens’ elimination type and frequency in the logbook.

When they are between 3 and 4 weeks of age, kittens can be introduced to the litter box. Use a small cardboard box or plastic litter box with just enough clay litter to cover the bottom. Don’t use clumping litter. Adding a used cotton ball (from when you helped them urinate) to the box will help them get the idea of what to do next. Put the kittens in the box, allowing them to get the feel for the litter. Natural instinct will generally prevail and the kittens will begin investigating, scratching, and, within a few days, using the box.

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A clean kitten is a happy kitten

After feeding, clean any formula, urine, feces or other messes off the kitten using a clean, soft, warm, damp cloth. This action simulates how the momma cat would clean the kittens. If more cleaning is required, you may use a wetter washcloth dipped in warm water to loosen up caked-on messes in the kitten’s fur. Do not use soap or pet shampoo directly on the kitten. If you must use a shampoo to clean the kitten, add one or two drops of shampoo to a cup of warm water, then use the cloth dipped in this mixture to clean the kitten. Rinse the cleaned area with another cloth dipped in clear, warm water. Gently dry the kitten with a soft towel. Do not allow the kitten to become chilled. Once the kitten is clean and dry, place her back in the carrier on the covered heating pad, which should be covered in clean layers of bedding.

Kittens’ ears should be clean and dirt-free. If the ears are dirty, gently clean the area with a Q-tip; you may need to dampen it in warm water. Do not use ear-cleaning solution because it could be harmful to the kitten. Only clean the outer area of the inside ear, just the part that you can see; do not push the Q-tip down into the ear. If the ears are extremely dirty or you see signs of ear mites (specks that look like coffee grounds), contact your medical staff about treatment options.

Kittens may have some discharge in or around their eyes. To cleanse the area, gently wipe around the eye with a warm, damp, soft cloth. If the discharge continues, is cloudy, or the eyes are gooped shut, clean the eyes as directed above, then contact your medical staff for treatment options.

All kitten bedding should be washed separately from other household laundry using detergent and ¾ cup of bleach per load. To clean carriers and litter boxes used for the kittens, use a mixture of ¼ cup of bleach per gallon of water. You may add a tablespoon of laundry soap to the wash water. Do not use any cleaning agents that contain ammonia or are not approved to mix with bleach, since it could cause hazardous fumes. Be sure the carrier and/or litter boxes are completely dry and free of bleach fumes before putting them back with the kittens.

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Medical care

A veterinarian should be consulted for kittens showing any of the following symptoms.
Do not medicate kittens without consulting a vet first.

  • Diarrhea
  • Constipation
  • Straining to urinate, or not urinating
  • Vomiting
  • Upper respiratory symptoms: goopy/watery eyes, runny nose, constant sneezing, coughing, wheezing or labored breathing
  • Not eating
  • Lethargy
  • Change in attitude or behavior
  • Hair loss
  • Anything you are worried or concerned about

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Kittens’ developmental milestones

Kittens weigh about 2 to 4 ounces at birth. They are blind, deaf and totally dependent on the mother cat for survival. Some developmental milestones:

  • At 7 to 10 days, their eyes start to open. Kittens’ eyes are fully open by 20 days. Their eyes stay blue until they are 6 to 7 weeks old.
  • They begin crawling at 16 to 20 days.
  • They will begin to play with each other at 3 to 4 weeks.
  • By 3 to 4 weeks, solid food can be introduced, their first juvenile teeth are cut, and litter box training begins.
  • At 6 weeks, kittens are well-coordinated, running and climbing and full of mischief.
  • Kittens are ready for their first vaccinations and spay/neuter surgery at 8 weeks old.

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Loving care

Physical and emotional contact with you is extremely important for the growing, developing kitten. Early cuddling and gentle petting of kittens helps them to bond well with humans, allowing them to grow up feeling safe and secure with their human family. Playing with the kittens with a variety of toys will stimulate their minds and help them develop good motor skills.

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It’s Time to Stop Spraying Cats with Water! – Feline Behavior Solutions

Why, oh why, is spraying cats with water still a thing?  In looking around online and talking with people, I find that – over and over again – people are drawn to using a squirt bottle to either discipline or punish cats for unwanted behavior.  Even shelters and those who should know better are still recommending the use of spray bottles or squirt guns.  With everything we now know about cats, learning, and behavior, we need to update this antiquated mode of trying to teach cats to stop one behavior and do something different!

Well, folks who encourage the use of the spray bottle do have one thing right – using a spray bottle may indeed change your cat’s behavior, although not in the way you want it to.  You know all of those stories where a fairy or genie or leprechaun grants three wishes, but the way those wishes are granted usually means something awful happens to the wisher?  You can get similar results when you use a squirt bottle with your cat.  Your cat might stop scratching the couch…only to start scratching on another piece of furniture when you’re not around.  Or, your cat might stop chewing the plants…until you’re not around.  Or, your cat might stop hopping up on the kitchen counters…until you’re not around.  See what I’m getting at?  Your cat won’t necessarily make the connection between his behavior and the squirt bottle, other than he gets squirted when he does those things AND you’re around.  But when you’re not around, there’s no consequence.  So the behavior continues…when you’re not around.

And frankly, squirt or spray bottles may not even be that effective.  I’ll be honest with you.  Many years ago, before I knew what I know now, I used a squirt bottle on a cat I had who was constantly jumping up on our kitchen counters.  It worked the first few times I squirted her – she got down immediately and ran away.  But the behavior continued, and pretty soon, she simply stared me down while I was squirting her and her tiny little face was just like “BRING IT” (she was a tortie and had tortitude, so this was totally in line with her purrsonality).  The spray bottle was completely useless at that point, and all I was doing was 1) showing her that I was mean, and 2) soaking her.  I didn’t have the intention of being mean, of course – my intention was simply to keep her from getting on the counter!  But she didn’t know that, she was just getting squirted down by a big old meanie.  Ahhh, I’m so sorry, Zoe!!!

I’ve also talked with many people who have had similar experiences, where the squirt bottle didn’t do anything to correct the behavior.  And, I’ve even talked with a couple of people who said their cats thought the squirted bottle was a GAME, so they would do things just to get sprayed! (So much for the myth that cats hate water, eh?)

To correct (or change) a cat’s behavior, either punishment (like using a spray bottle) or reinforcement (to reward good behavior) needs to happen consistently – that’s when cats start to put two and two together, linking their behavior with the consequence.  With positive reinforcement, this is fun for everyone – kitty does something good, and you get to be the hero by providing a reward (e.g., a treat) in hopes of encouraging the kitty to repeat that behavior.  The more often you are able to reinforce a desirable behavior, the more likely the cat will repeat it (think consistency).  However, the same is NOT true of using punishment such as a spray bottle.  You will not always be around to punish your cat for doing something undesirable, thus, the punishment will not be consistent.  And the more consistent you are with punishment, the more frequently your cat is receiving bad juju from you.  So, if you are able to be consistent enough with punishment, it comes with a price – fear and distrust.  If you are constantly doling out punishment in the form of spray bottles or even yelling (and I certainly hope not hitting or making physical contact), your cat is more likely to start fearing you.  The end result is more stress for everyone, and when cats get too stressed, that results in…yup, you guessed it…more behavior issues (which can even include aggression towards you).

So what happens when you use a spray bottle, or other method of punishment that comes from you?

  • Your cat starts to associate the unpleasant experience with you, and not necessarily his actions with the punishment (as you intended).
  • Your cat will begin to do the undesired “thing” when you’re not around.
  • Your cat will begin to fear and distrust you.
  • Your cat’s stress levels may increase, which can result in more of the behavior you are trying to correct, or result in a new undesirable behavior.

Ok, so now that we’ve got that cleared up, what CAN you do to correct your cat’s behavior?  Please understand that most cats do things because to meet a biological need.  Cats need to scratch, so you must provide them with an adequate scratcher – if they don’t like the one they’ve been given, they will find something more suitable (i.e., your couch).  Your cat jumps up on the kitchen counter because he’s hungry or has been rewarded by finding food up there before.  Your cat tries to get out the door when you open it because he’s maybe not getting enough enrichment inside and is bored with his environment.  Or, perhaps your cat sprays your bedding because he’s feeling insecure about his place in the household and needs to put his scent down as a self-soothing measure.  Maybe you have even been unknowingly rewarding or reinforcing an undesirable behavior, or just not have given your cat an appropriate outlet for what he is biologically driven to do.  So, when it comes to correcting any undesirable behavior, please consider:

  • What is the need your cat is trying to meet? (Scratching, viewing his territory, getting exercise, eliminating in a place where he feels safe?)
  • How can you meet your cat’s need in a way that would be acceptable to you? (Can you purchase a scratcher he would like, or try a different location for the litterbox?)
  • Can you reinforce a better, alternative way to express the behavior? (Does your cat like treats for using his scratcher, or praise for using the litterbox?)
  • In conjunction with providing an acceptable outlet for the behavior, is there a humane way to discourage the old behavior even when you’re not around ? (Can you put Sticky Paws on the couch where he was previously scratching, or put a food bowl in a spot where your cat had previously urinated to change the purpose of the area?)

Spraying cats with water from a squirt bottle is not a reinforcement; it’s a punishment.  Giving your cat a choice of ways to express his behavioral needs and then rewarding his use of the choice you prefer is the best way to encourage your cat’s “good” behavior.  The inappropriate behavior will fade away, the bond between you will be strengthened because you’re giving rewards based on something your cat does (i.e., operant conditioning), and your cat won’t fear or distrust you.  In my book, that’s called a win-win!

If you would like to learn more about positive and negative reinforcement or punishment, check out my article “How to Use Positive Reinforcement for Good Cat Behavior“.

6 Tips for Safely Bottle Feeding Kittens

By Hannah Shaw

So you’re caring for a bottle-fed kitten. Maybe you’ve signed up to foster orphans for your local shelter, or you’ve found a baby outside and the mother has not returned for her. No matter the case, you’ll want to exercise caution and follow these six tips for safely bottle feeding kittens.

Choose the Right Kitten Formula and Bottle

Motherless neonatal kittens have sensitive systems that require a special kitten formula—not just any dairy product you have in the fridge. Kitten formula is formulated to provide a proper balance of vitamins, minerals, probiotics, and a caloric pattern that mimics the content of a mother cat’s milk. This product comes as a liquid or powder mix, which you can pick up at the nearest pet supply store, feed store, or online retailer. Never feed a kitten cow’s milk, human baby formula, milk alternatives, or at-home recipes, as these can cause illness and death.

While picking up your kitten formula, you will also want to pick up a kitten bottle and perhaps an extra set of rubber nipples for feeding. If the nipple on your bottle does not come pre-cut, cut a small hole in the nipple on a diagonal angle, being mindful that the hole is not too big or too small. This is important because it will determine the flow of the formula while the kitten is nursing. To ensure proper flow, test the hole by turning the bottle upside down. The formula should slowly drip one drop at a time if the hole is the correct size. If it flowing too slowly, enlarge the hole… too quickly and you’ll have to try again with a new nipple.

Prepare Your Kitten’s Bottle Properly


Preparing the bottle properly will take the fuss out of feeding and give the kitten just what she needs. Make the formula so that it is fresh, clump-free, and comfortably warm. If using a powder formula, mix powder thoroughly with warm water according to the instructions until it is completely smooth (a smoothie shaker may come in handy for this) to avoid clumps that can clog up the bottle. If using a liquid formula, gently warm it by placing the bottle in a cup with hot water for 30 to 60 seconds, and shaking the bottle to gently and evenly warm the contents.

Before feeding, test the temperature on the inside of your wrist and ensure that it is comfortably warm. Refrigerate unused powder and mix a new batch at each feeding to keep everything fresh.


Feed Kittens Using a Safe Posture

Always bottle feed in a natural, belly-down posture—the kitten should be comfortably lying or seated with her belly toward the floor. Never feed a kitten on her back, like a human baby would eat, as this can cause the kitten to inhale fluid into the lungs.

Sit the kitten in your lap or on a table, holding the head steady with your non-dominant hand, and introduce the nipple to her mouth with your dominant hand. Invert the bottle so that the formula can slowly flow into the kitten’s mouth. Ideally, the kitten will make a u-shape with her tongue and latch to the bottle, suckling to drink the formula. Place a finger on her throat to ensure that she is swallowing as she eats. Never forcefully squeeze a bottle into a kitten’s mouth. Instead, let the kitten suckle at her own pace.

Feed Your Kitten the Right Amount, With the Right Frequency

Young kittens require frequent feeding, so be prepared to care for them around-the-clock until they are 5 to 6 weeks of age and weaning onto wet food. For the first few weeks of life, this will mean waking up in the middle of the night to feed. Small amounts of food every few hours will keep the kitten hydrated and provide the nutrients and fat needed for rapid development and weight gain.

Use the following chart as a kitten feeding guide:



Amount per feeding

Feeding schedule

0-1 week

50-150 grams

2-6 ml

Every 2 hours

1-2 weeks

150-250 grams

6-10 ml

Every 2-3 hours

2-3 weeks

250-350 grams

10-14 ml

Every 3-4 hours

3-4 weeks

350-450 grams

14-18 ml

Every 4-5 hours

4-5 weeks

450-550 grams

18-22 ml

Every 5-6 hours

5-8 weeks

550-850 grams

(weaning; offer ample wet food)

Every 6 hours

This chart is simply a guide—not a rule book. Some kittens will vary in weight and development, so use your best judgment, or speak with a veterinarian, while keeping this guide in mind as a helpful baseline.


Monitor the Kitten’s Progress

Keeping track of a kitten’s weight is a great way to monitor her progress and ensure that she is making the necessary gains. A small digital food scale is perfect for weighing kittens, as it can display their weight in grams and give you a precise measurement. At least once a day, place the kitten on the scale and write down her weight in grams. She should gain at least 10 grams per day. If the kitten is not gaining weight or if she loses weight, seek immediate veterinary support.

Care After Kitten Feeding

Caring for orphan kittens requires more than just bottle feeding. You will also be tasked with stimulating the kitten to go to the bathroom, tending to her medical needs, keeping her warm and clean, and otherwise providing her with a safe and secure environment until she is old enough for adoption.


After feeding, wipe down the kitten’s face so that no formula is sticking to her fur. Gently rub the kitten’s genitals with a soft tissue to stimulate her to urinate and defecate. Do this at each feeding, being mindful to wipe up afterward so that she stays clean and comfortable. Once the kitten has been fed, stimulated, and cleaned up, it’s time for her to go back into her warm, safe space until the next feeding. Repeat until the kitten is 5 to 6 weeks old and weaning onto wet kitten food.

To learn more about how to provide well-rounded care for an orphan kitten, download a PDF on kitten care here.

Hannah Shaw is an expert on neonatal kittens and is founder of the rescue and advocacy project Kitten Lady. You can find more kitten-care resources on the Kitten Lady website.

Bottle Babies | Community Concern For Cats

As a volunteer fostering unweaned orphan kittens, you have taken on a difficult but very rewarding project. Your efforts will give the orphans in your care the chance to live a full and happy life. Without you, they might have died or been euthanized. Community Concern for Cats is truly grateful to you for your commitment to saving these little lives.

This effort is a lot of work, but you are not alone! CC4C members are here to provide support and to answer the questions that will undoubtedly arise. Please don’t hesitate to ask for help by calling us at 925-938-CATS.

The guidelines below will give you the basic information you need to raise unweaned kittens.

The first three topics below are the most important:

2 week old kittens, kept warm on a heating pad (on low).


  • Keeping the kittens warm is crucial. Those under about 3 weeks old are unable to generate much body heat on their own. They depend on their mother and litter mates for heat. Without her, they chill easily and can die.
  • A chilled kitten should be warmed up before feeding. Your body warmth is a good substitute for the mother while you prepare a heating pad. Tuck the kitten against your skin under your clothing, holding it in place with your bra or arm.
  • Keep the kittens in a place in your home that is warm, draft-free, and isolated from small children and your own pets, particularly cats. Place the kittens on a heating pad on the low setting under a heavy towel. Be VERY careful to place adequate padding between the kittens and the heating pad to avoid burns. Be sure to tuck the towel under the pad so the kittens cannot crawl between the towel and the pad.
  • Place kittens and pad in a box, cat carrier, or other confinement that is large enough for the kittens to move off the pad if they become too warm.



Mixing the formula
  • Supplies for bottle feeding (bottles, nipples, formula, etc.) are available at pet stores.
  • Under 4 weeks of age, feed only KMR (Kitten Milk Replacement), available at pet stores, either premixed in a can (expensive but fast in an emergency) or powdered in a can. Mix the powdered KMR as directed on the container, based on the kitten’s weight.
  • Weigh the kitten using a kitchen scale or pet stores usually have a digital scale they’ll let you use.) A kitten needs approximately 8 cc’s of formula per ounce of body weight per day.
Age (weeks) Weight (oz.) Feedings
(cc of formula)
(# feedings per day)
1 4 32 6
2 7 56 4
3 10 80 3
4 13 104 3
5 16 128 3
Note: 15 cc = 1 Tbsp
  • A plastic water bottle (such as the 16 oz size) is perfect for shaking/mixing the formula, storing the day’s supply in the fridge, and also for ease of pouring into the small nursing bottle.
  • Both powdered KMR mixed with water and an opened can of premixed KMR is to be stored in the refrigerator.
  • The opened can of powdered KMR should be refrigerated as well; it is good for 3 months if kept cold. If kept in the freezer, an opened can of powder lasts 6 months.
  • To save time, make up a 24-hour supply and keep it refrigerated. Any formula left over after 24 hours should be thrown out.
  • Formula should always be fed warm (approx. 101 degrees F). Warm the formula in the bottle in a pan of water.
  • Do not microwave the formula; although you may microwave the water in a glass cup before placing the bottle in the water. Test a few drops on the back of your hand to make sure it is warm but not hot.
  • DO NOT ALLOW THE FORMULA TO BOIL. Any formula that boils must be thrown out, as the protein has been destroyed.
  • Only heat as much formula as you think the kittens will drink. ANY HEATED FORMULA REMAINING SHOULD BE DISCARDED. Reheated formula can cause a bacterial infection.
Feeding the kittens
  • Kittens under 4 weeks old should be fed every 3-1/2 to 4 hours during the day. Nighttime feeding is not necessary as long as the kittens are fed at least 4 to 5 times during the day. However, feed as late in the evening as is convenient and as early in the morning as possible.
  • Nipples come without holes. Take care in creating a nipple hole. Use the smallest cuticle scissors you have and start small; once the hole is cut too big, it cannot be corrected. The hole is perfect when you hold the bottle upside down and it goes drip – drip – drip. Gushing out might cause the kitten to aspirate the formula; a hole too small will keep the kitten from getting any formula at all.
  • If the kittens are asleep at feeding time, wake them gently by holding and stroking them. Aside from feeding time, allow them to sleep at will.
  • To feed your kitten, place it stomach down on a towel or other textured surface to which it can cling. This is similar to the position when nursing on the mother.
  • Grasp the kitten gently under its armpits. Gently open its mouth with the tip of your finger, then slip the nipple between its jaws. You may have to wiggle it, and squeeze out a bit of milk so the kitten gets the idea. NEVER TURN THE KITTEN ON ITS BACK TO FEED. KEEP BOTH THE KITTEN AND THE BOTTLE IN AS UPRIGHT A POSITION AS POSSIBLE. Hold the bottle at 45-degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle to encourage vigorous sucking.

2 week old kitten, eating KMR from a bottle held at 45 degrees.


  • If the kitten is sucking effectively, the ears move in rhythm to the sucking.
  • Take your time; some kittens nurse slowly.
  • The kitten will let you know when it has had enough simply by refusing more. Or bubbles will form around its mouth. Burp the kitten on your shoulder (like a baby), tapping with your finger on its back. Try the bottle twice more to see if the kitten will take more after burping.
  • Sometimes the kitten will get a grip on the nipple and the nipple will collapse in its mouth. Then gently twist the nipple to release the kitten’s grasp, which will then allow air to enter and the nipple to expand again.
  • If the kittens are not eating, they may have become dehydrated. They will need fluids under the skin (lactated ringer’s solution). Call a CC4C member to get help.
  • Before and/or after each meal, place a cotton ball, facial tissue or soft towel over the kitten’s genitals and jiggle gently to stimulate urination and a bowel movement. DO NOT RUB; this will cause the area to become raw and sore. (The mother typically cleans this area herself before they’re litter trained.)

Helping a 2 week old kitten to eliminate using a warm damp washcloth.

  • By about 3 weeks of age, a kitten should be able to eliminate without help. (See LITTER TRAINING below.)
  • Weigh the kittens daily to be sure they’re gaining weight, and keep a record. Weight gain may skip a day or two, then jump a bit. They should gain about 4 oz. per week.
  • A kitten’s instinctive need to suckle (frustrated by the lack of a mother’s nipple) may cause the kitten to suckle its littermate’s ears, tail or genitals, causing irritation. Try to satisfy this oral need by caressing each kitten’s mouth with your finger or a soft cloth.
  • When kittens reach 12 ounces (about 3-1/2 to 4 weeks of age), feed every 6 hours. It is now about time to wean the kittens off the bottle and onto solid food. (See WEANING below.)


As with all newborns, hygiene is extremely important. The spread of germs is an ongoing threat to kittens. To keep this spread to a minimum, make cleanliness a high priority:

  • If you’re feeding more than one litter, keep the litters separate from each other – preferably in different rooms. Feed each litter with separate bottles and nipples. Use different lap towels for each litter. Wash your hands before you handle each litter. You might also want to change shoes when you enter each room, and use a separate apron or other garment for each.
  • KEEP ALL FEEDING EQUIPMENT EXTREMELY CLEAN! Sterilize all utensils before each feeding.
  • Wash bottles, nipples, storage bottle and bottle brushes, etc., in hot soapy water and rinse well. Bottles and nipples can also be placed in a pan of boiling water to sterilize them.
  • BE SURE TO CLEAN THE PLASTIC MIXING/STORAGE BOTTLE THOROUGHLY EACH 24 HOURS. If a film appears inside the bottle, use either a bottle brush made specifically for kitten bottles, or put 10-15 grains of dry rice in the bottle, with a drop of dishwashing liquid and a small bit of water; shake vigorously. The rice against the bottle will remove the film.
  • Keep the kittens clean and dry. The mother cat keeps them scrupulously clean. THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR A KITTEN THAT HAS FECES ON IT. Do not be afraid to give a kitten a bath or wipe with a warm damp washcloth. Use a sinkful of warm water, or run warm water from a faucet. Use a mild soap (Dawn is especially good). Clean the kittens gently but thoroughly. Rinse and IMMEDIATELY DRY THE KITTEN COMPLETELY with a towel and a blow dryer on low. Be sure to keep your hand between the kitten and the dryer to avoid burning. A kitten must be completely dry before putting it back in the box. Chilling is a major cause of death in kittens.
  • The towels in the kittens’ box should also be kept clean. You might not notice soiling on the towels, but the kittens will urinate and they should not lie in urine-soaked beds. Sometimes you will need to change the towel with each feeding. You might find you will be doing more laundry for the kittens than your own family, but cleanliness is important to the health of these babies, so KEEP THE TOWELS CLEAN!


At about 3 weeks of age, a kitten should be able to eliminate without help, and you can start litter training.

  • Set up a shallow litter tray that the kittens can climb in and out of easily – like an aluminum one-use baking rimmed cookie sheet.
  • Clay litter is best; but clumping litter is OK if it is the wheat or corn versions. When kittens climb in and out of the litter tray with feet wet from water or food, the clumps get between their toes and can be ingested. The corn or wheat won’t hurt them; the minerals can.
  • If the kittens poop outside the box, pick it up and put it in the box for training.
  • After feeding, place kittens in a clean, shallow litter tray. Encourage them to scratch in the litter.
  • Leave a litter pan available to them at all times at this age.


Start weaning the kittens off the bottle at 4 or 5 weeks of age. Individual kittens in the same litter may wean at different times, so don’t be discouraged if one or two refuses to leave the bottle at first. Some take up to 8 weeks – often those kittens who crave the one-on-one attention they get from the bottle.

  • Offer food in a shallow bowl or saucer with a big towel underneath to catch the inevitable mess.
  • Start offering a good quality canned kitten food (your pet store can recommend one) mixed to a thin paste with KMR and/or Gerbers or Beechnut baby food (chicken or turkey).
  • To get them started, use your finger to put some of the mixture directly into their mouths.
  • When they respond to the taste of the food on your finger, lead their faces down to the food saucer with your food-laden finger.
  • The kittens will climb in the food at first, and will end up with food all over their faces – and you, so be prepared. KMR left on the skin can cause irritation. Clean their feet and faces with soft damp cloth, being careful to completely dry them well.
  • You’ll need to continue KMR feedings as the kittens get used to the saucer. As they eat more often from the bowl, reduce the bottle feedings. You can also offer KMR in a saucer.
  • When the kittens are eating only solid food, eliminate the KMR.
  • Plain fresh water should be available at all times to the kittens, starting at 4 weeks.


Sick kittens can go downhill very quickly. If you see any of the following symptoms, call a CC4C member or your vet IMMEDIATELY:

  • Diarrhea (very dangerous in tiny kittens)
  • Constipation (no stool for 2 or 3 days)
  • Breathing difficulty
  • Refusal to eat; missed more than one feeding
  • Eye discharge or runny nose
  • Lethargic

Somewhere between 2 and 5 weeks, the kitten might develop bloody diarrhea. This is usually coccidian, very common in kittens. This is a treatable parasite (not a worm) and it must be treated quickly to avoid dehydration.

  • Take both a stool sample and each kitten in the litter to the vet for a medication called Albon (dosage by weight, once a day for 7-10 days).
  • It is imperative during this time to keep the kittens extremely clean, because the diarrhea can cause their rear ends to become sore and raw.
  • You will probably need to bathe them at each feeding. Then treat their rears with Bag Balm or Desitin (for diaper rash).
  • Helping them to urinate and defecate under running water using a mild soap will alleviate the pain for them.

Constipation can be helped by adding a few drops of Karo syrup to the KMR, or by thinning the KMR a bit.

Never hesitate to call a CC4C member if you have any concerns about the kittens in your care. No question is too stupid or inconsequential. Please ask for help!

When a kitten dies: Sadly, however hard we all try, some kittens inevitably die, or become so ill the veterinarian will recommend euthanasia. Sometimes no specific reason can be known – what is called “fading kitten syndrome.” (NOTE: One experienced cat breeder has had success in overcoming this syndrome. When a kitten stops eating and shows no upper respiratory symptoms, give an antibiotic such as amoxicillin. It’s worth a try.) Whatever the reason, it is extremely difficult emotionally to lose a kitten you have nursed with loving care. We understand this and sympathize with you.


(a) Vaccinations and Tests:

The kittens should receive a series of 3 vaccinations (called FVRCP or distemper) beginning at 8 weeks of age. Shots 2 and 3 of the series should be given 3 – 4 weeks apart. This vaccine protects them from distemper (airborne, contagious and can be a killer) and upper respiratory. This is especially important for bottle babies, who don’t have the advantage of antibodies from mother’s milk. Kittens should also have a feline leukemia test at 8 weeks.

(b) Fleas

You need to check your kittens for fleas soon after you receive them. Flea anemia can be severely detrimental to their heath, and in extreme cases, cause death.

  • Fleas may be obvious on the body or may be hiding under legs or armpits. Or you may see the evidence as little black specks on the kitten’s body. If the kitten’s fur is too dark to see this, place it on a white sheet of paper and rub the fur backwards; black specks will show up on the paper.
  • It is not safe to use commercial insecticides or topical flea treatments on kittens under 6 weeks.
  • Comb the kittens gently with a fine-toothed flea comb. Have next to you a small bowl of warm with a few drops of Dawn dish-washing liquid. Any fleas caught in the comb can be flicked into the soapy water where they will drown.
  • If the infestation is severe, bathe them very gently in warm water with Dawn dish-washing liquid. Start by gently lathering the head and work downward. (If you start by placing the rear in the water first, the fleas will run to the head, making it harder to get at them.)
  • Wet fur also makes the adult fleas easier to spot and remove with the comb.
  • As with bathing instructions above, rinse and IMMEDIATELY DRY THE KITTEN THOROUGHLY in a soft towel and with a hair dryer on a low setting (making sure to keep your hand between the hot air and the kitten).
  • If you’re concerned about bathing the kittens, call a CC4C member for instructions or help.
  • Even after the bath, comb the kittens daily because some fleas will inevitably escape the bath.
(c) Worms

Most kittens have tapeworms (intestines) and/or roundworms (stomach) from their mothers. Worming medication can be given at about 1-1/2 pounds of weight. A gentle wormer (Pyrantel) be given to younger kittens; a veterinarian or a CC4C member can give you the dosage.

(d) Raising a Single Kitten

CC4C encourages volunteers to take at least 2 kittens at a time, since almost all kittens have siblings. If a kitten must be raised alone, use the following tips:

  • Provide the kitten with a surrogate mother or sibling, such as a stuffed toy to snuggle up to or artificial fur to sleep on. You will find that the kitten will knead this like it does its mother.
  • Kittens need emotional closeness. Hold the kitten after feeding for a while until it drops off to sleep.
    Let the kitten snuggle against your warm skin.
  • Rub and pet the kitten with short strokes, as its mother would with her tongue. Talk to it for several minutes.
  • Mothers and siblings help a kitten learn discipline and socialization. Introduce the lone kitten to other kittens as soon as possible so they learn to interact and play.
  • Most bottle fed kittens are very affectionate toward people. But if a kitten starts to become a biter at about 8 weeks, hold it in your hand and firmly tell it “NO!” Then put it down and withdraw your attention for some minutes.
(e) Adoption

Kittens can be adopted when they are 8 weeks old and weigh at least 2 pounds.

  • They will be independent enough to feed from a dish, will be thoroughly box trained, and will have had their first vaccination and leukemia test.
  • At this time, CC4C will accept them into the adoption program at one of our pet store sites. Your CC4C contact can arrange for cage space. You will bring the kittens to the store as the adoption period starts.
  • It’s best if you can stay with the kittens, at least at first, to be sure they’re comfortable and to answer the questions of potential adopters. If you cannot stay, leave pertinent information about personality and socialization. Then pick them up at the end of that day’s adoption period.
  • Or CC4C may have been able to arrange another foster for the kittens.
We Couldn’t Do It Without You! All of us at CC4C extend a warm and grateful thank you for the time and love you give to these orphans. Thank you for saving their special little lives!

How to Bottle Feed Your Newborn Kittens

To ensure the survival of a newborn kitten, ample nutrition must be provided. Sometimes, however, the mother cat grows ill and cannot nurse her young or she alienates a kitten from the litter due to an injury or disability. In these situations, you will need to step in and take on the role of the mother cat. This often requires bottle feeding a newborn kitten until the kitten is strong enough to eat regular cat food.

Preparing to Bottle Feed Your Kitten

Depending on its size and condition, your newborn kitten will need approximately nine to 12 daily feedings. For the first two weeks of life, you will need to count on feeding the kitten every two hours during the day and every four hours overnight.

In order to bottle feed the kitten, you will need to gather a few supplies. Regular human baby bottles will likely be too big, but most pet stores have newborn kitten bottles and nipples, as well as a commercial formula specifically designed for kittens. If your kitten is a preemie, you will need to dropper-feed it until it’s strong enough to suck on the bottle. Make sure to check with your veterinarian if this is the case.

What You Need

  • Newborn kitten bottles and nipples
  • Dropper (if needed)
  • Kitten formula
  • Soft towels and washcloths
  • Kitchen scale

Prepare the Formula

Just as with human babies, it’s important that you feed your kitten with sterilized bottles and warm the formula before offering it to the kitten. Taking a few minutes to prepare everything properly will make each meal go a little smoother.

  1. Sterilize the baby bottles and nipples in a boiling water bath for about five minutes. Allow them to drain on a clean towel before using.
  2. If you are using a new nipple, you will need to make a small hole in the tip. Make sure to keep the opening small so the formula does not come out too fast. You can use a pair of cuticle scissors to cut the tip off the nipple. When held upside down, the formula should drip out.
  3. Place a large towel, a washcloth, and a bowl of warm water on a table next to a comfortable chair.
  4. Mix and fill one bottle with kitten formula according to the directions on the package.
  5. Warm the formula by placing the bottle in the bowl of hot water.
  6. Test the temperature by dripping a few drops on your forearm. If it burns, it’s too hot; body temperature is just right.

Bottle Feed the Kitten

Sit in the chair with a towel folded in your lap. Place the kitten face down on your lap. You can wrap it in the towel to make sure the kitten stays warm while it eats.

Without raising the kitten’s head, place the nipple in its mouth. The kitten should instinctively start sucking right away. Continue to feed the kitten until it pulls away.

Burp the Kitten

Much like human babies, kittens need to be burped after nursing. The best way to accomplish this is to hold one hand under the kitten’s abdomen and gently pat its upper back. But do so gently—you don’t want the kitten to vomit. If it doesn’t burp right away, don’t worry, just move onto the next step.

Stimulate Elimination

The mother cat stimulates her kittens’ elimination by licking their anuses and genital area with her rough tongue. You can imitate this process by placing a warm, damp washcloth in the same general region, wiping softly. Be careful not to wipe too vigorously as this can cause irritation to the sensitive skin in that area. It may take a couple of feedings to see results, so don’t despair. Urination may take even longer.

Let the Kitten Sleep

After nursing, your kitten will most likely fall asleep. Place it in a warm cat bed and let the kitten sleep undisturbed.

The Spruce / Elnora Turner


  • When feeding your kitten, either by bottle or dropper, proper positioning is critical. Raising the kitten’s head or dropping too much formula into its mouth may cause aspiration of the formula into its lungs, which could be fatal. Pay attention and let the kitten’s actions be your guide. 
  • If your kitten fails to suck or is having trouble getting milk, check the nipple again. You can also try stroking its head or gently patting it on the back to start the nursing reflex. 
  • Weigh your kitten every day on a kitchen scale covered with a clean cloth so you can chart its growth. It should gain 1/2 ounce every day for the first two weeks. If your kitten fails to progress, call your vet immediately and ask for advice. It is possible that your kitten may need IV supplementation. 

If you suspect your pet is sick, call your vet immediately. For health-related questions, always consult your veterinarian, as they have examined your pet, know the pet’s health history, and can make the best recommendations for your pet.

Are ‘Bonsai Kittens’ Real? |

[Collected on the Internet, 2001]

To anyone with love and respect for life: In New York there is a Japanese who sells bonsai-kittens”. Sounds like fun huh? NOT! These animals are squeezed into a bottle. Their urine and feces are removed through probes. They feed them with a kind of tube. They feed them chemicals to keep their bones soft and flexible so the kittens grow into the shape of the bottle. The animals will stay their as long as they live. They can’t walk or move or wash themselves. Bonsai-kittens are becoming a fashion in New York and Asia.

See this horror at:

Please sign this email in protest against these tortures. If you receive an email with over 500 names, please send a copy to: [email protected] From there this protest will be sent to USA and Mexican animal protection organizations.

[Collected on the Internet, 2002]


A site that we were able to shut last year has returned. We have to try to shut it down again! A Japanese man in New York breeds and sells kittens that are called BONSAI CATS.

That would sound cute, if it weren’t kittens that were put in to little bottles after being given a muscle relaxant and then locked up for the rest of their lives!! The cats are fed through a straw and have a small tube for their faeces. The skeleton of the cat will take on the form of the bottle as the kitten grows. The cats never get the opportunity to move.

They are used as original and exclusive souvenirs. These are the latest trends in New York, China, Indonesia and New Zealand.

If you think you can handle it, view and have a look at the methods being used to put these little kittens into bottles. This petition needs 500 names, so please put your one name on it!!! Copy the text into a new email and put your name on the bottom, then send it to everyone you know. If you notice that there are 500 names on the list, please send it to: [email protected]

Bonsai kittens are not real. Nobody is making bonsai kittens. Nobody is selling equipment to help people make bonsai kittens. Nobody is instructing people in the “lost Eastern art of sealing kittens inside rectilinear jars.”

When it was running (the site is no longer active), the Bonsai Kitten web site was a joke, not an actual promotion for the making of bonsai kittens. Investigations by law enforcement agencies, including the FBI, determined no real cats were harmed in the creation of the pictures used on the Bonsai Kitten web site. Signing a petition to shut down the Bonsai Kitten web site will not prevent any kittens from being harmed, because no kittens were harmed in the first place.

It was all a joke, one which some say was in terribly poor taste. If that was your reaction, take comfort in the knowledge that many others thought the same.

How could you have known the Bonsai Kitten site was a satire despite its lack of “This is a joke!” banners emblazoned across it? Satire doesn’t always announce itself as such (some feel that would ruin its humor), so in cases like this, one dusts off the common sense and aims it at the problem:

  • The process described is impossible: animals so treated would die long before they could be “molded.”
  • The web site offers no way to purchase the materials advertised. A real commercial enterprise wouldn’t build consumer interest through a flashy web site then fail to offer anything for sale. (The site does include a page of “Helpful Tools & Supplies” but provides no form through which they can be ordered.)
  • The “Bonsai Kitten” site displays no actual pictures of the finished product. There are plenty of pictures of kittens in jars which can comfortably accommodate them (cats are quite elastic and can fit into very small spaces without discomfort), but there are no photographs of molded kittens on display.

The web site offers an article entitled “Happiness is a Rectilinear Kitten,” its comprehensive history of the furor and media coverage generated by the Bonsai Kitten web site throughout its first year of existence.

How to Make a Puzzle Cat Feeder

The active pursuit of food is instinctive for cats. A great way to appeal to your cat’s desire for physical and mental stimulation during feeding is through the use of a puzzle feeder.

Some puzzle feeders are ball- or tube-shaped and release bits of kibble when rolled just the right way. Some have sliders that move to reveal hidden compartments where you stash the food. Others have silos of different heights to add complexity to the hunt.

While these feeders come in all shapes and sizes, they operate on a similar premise: each challenges your cat to work for her food.

Our experts explore ideas

Cat behaviorists from our expert team, along Purina’s industrial design team, got together to see what they could build. They did this with a collection of common household items.

The criteria: the feeders had to be made from low-cost items, and easily adaptable in order to increase the level of challenge for your cat.

Here’s how you can make the team’s favorites.

Wheel Puzzle Cat Feeder

What You Need

  • A round food container, like for margarine or sour cream or cream cheese, or a similar sized plastic storage container—preferably with a screw-on lid. To be safe, don’t use PVC-based containers.
  • Strong, non-toxic glue
  • An X-ACTO® or utility knife (Please use under adult supervision.)

How to Make It

  1. Clean and sanitize your container.
  2. Use an X-ACTO® or utility knife to cut a few small holes in the sides of the container that are large enough for a piece of kibble to pass through.
  3. Next, glue an additional lid to the bottom of the container that’s slightly larger in diameter. This alters the way that the feeder rolls and adds variety to the experience for your cat.

Bottle Puzzle Cat Feeder

What You Need

  • A plastic water or soda bottle (8 to 24 ounces)
  • An X-ACTO® or utility knife (Please use under adult supervision.)

How to Make It

  1. Clean and sanitize the bottle.
  2. Use an X-ACTO® or utility knife to cut a few small holes in the sides of the container that are large enough for kibble to pass through.
  3. Place some kibble in the bottle, screw on the cap and let your cat get to work.

Egg Puzzle Cat Feeder

What You Need

  • A small- to medium-sized plastic holiday egg
  • An X-ACTO® or utility knife (Please use under adult supervision.)

How to Make It

  1. Clean and sanitize the egg.
  2. Cut a couple holes in the top and bottom section of the holiday egg using the X-ACTO® or utility knife.
  3. Next, trim away any remnant plastic so the opening is as free as can be.
  4. Place some kibble inside the holiday egg, reassemble it and give it a test before rolling it out for play. Widen the holes as needed to ensure kibble can pass through.

Reach Box Feeder

What You Need

  • A sturdy shoebox
  • Three or more plastic water or soda bottles (8 to 24 ounces)
  • An X-ACTO or utility knife (Please use under adult supervision.)
  • Duct tape or a non-toxic glue, just in case

How to Make It

  1. Clean and sanitize all bottles.
  2. Use your X-ACTO or utility knife to cleanly cut the tops off each of the bottles. Vary the height at which you make the cuts to make things more challenging for your cat—easy, medium or difficult.
  3. Next, trace around one of the water bottles on the top of the box. Repeat it in different locations on the box top—one for each bottle.
  4. Use the X-ACTO or utility knife to cut holes in the box top. If you cut the hole slightly smaller than the border you traced, the narrow bands in the plastic bottle will help hold it in place without having to glue or tape it.
  5. Set the box so the bottles open from the top and place some kibble inside each bottle.
    This way, your cat has to reach down and scoop the food out. Or, you can set it on its side so your cat has to reach in to pull the food toward her. Each provides a different experience.

Turtle Puzzle Cat Feeder

Try this one created by our friend Alexandre Tremblay at Aikiou, maker of the Stimulo feeding station and other smart interactive feeders for cats and dogs.

What You Need

  • An empty egg carton
  • Non-toxic white glue
  • Scissors
  • Pencil
  • Crayons or non-toxic, water-based paint
  • Four binder clips

How to Make It

  1. Cut one egg cup from the bottom of the egg carton. This will form the shell of your turtle feeder.
  2. Place the egg cup adjacent to the spacer bump on the reverse side of the top of the egg carton. Trace around the perimeter and outline the contour of the spacer. This will form the head of the turtle as well as a base to keep the kibble inside the “shell.”
  3. Cut the lid following the outline you’ve made.
  4. Apply glue around the edge of the egg cup.
  5. Clamp the two pieces together using the four binder clips. Allow adequate time for the glue to set.
  6. Use the crayons or non-toxic water-based paint to decorate your turtle.
  7. Fill the turtle feeder with kibble and let your cat bat it about to get her reward.

Get Creative for Your Cat

A couple things to note before you get to building. First, puzzle feeders are meant to be supervised activities. You shouldn’t leave your cat unattended.

Second, it’s okay if your invention doesn’t hold up forever. Cats prefer variety, so it’s a success even if your cat uses the feeder for a week. If that’s the case, give it a break, try to devise a new iteration and add to the variety.

We challenge you to give these a try or put your own spin on a feeder for your cat. For more DIY and other enrichment ideas, check out articles from our experts on our Pet Expertise page.

Travel bottle for watering dogs and cats COMFY 500 ml

Travel bottle Comfy – a practical and convenient combination of a water bottle and a bowl. Ideal for walking, traveling and any situation where our pet needs easy access to fresh water. The bowl fits perfectly with a 500 ml reusable plastic bottle. This saves space and makes transport more convenient. It is a convenient and economical solution (the bottle is refilled), in line with the environmental trend.

You can get the goods in one of the following ways:
  • Self-pickup Every day from 11 to 19 from the salon “Aquariums” at nab. R. Fontanka house 99
  • Delivery to points of issue of orders in St. Petersburg, Moscow and regions.
  • Check with the manager for a complete list of pick-up points.
    Delivery of orders up to 9kg is possible to pick-up points.
  • Delivery by courier in St. Petersburg from Monday to Friday from 12-00 to 18-00
  • Small orders can be delivered any day of the week.
  • To any city by the transport company Aquariums and any other goods to your city
  • We can send you unbreakable goods by Russian Post

You can pay for the goods with a bank card or with electronic money when placing an order immediately or later through your Personal Account

You can also pay in cash to the Courier upon receipt of the order.

In addition, we accept payment by bank transfer, the manager will send it to you after placing an order

All goods in our store are certified in accordance with Russian legislation and are provided with an official manufacturer’s warranty, so we guarantee you the quality of goods and provide technical support in accordance with the warranty obligations of the respective manufacturers.

The warranty period is established by the manufacturer and is indicated in the branded Product Warranty Card. We are confident in the quality of the products we sell.

Balvi Cat Water Bottle Gold, glass

Delivery and Payment

Delivery time in Moscow and the region: when ordering from a warehouse, delivery the next day (when placing an order before 15:00) or every other day, in other cases, the exact information is indicated in the product card

Delivery time to other cities: several working days.The exact information is indicated in the product card

Payment methods: cash upon receipt or on the website by credit card upon ordering

Payment for goods on order: 100% prepayment by credit card

In case of complete cancellation of the order by courier, the cost of delivery is paid.

Moscow + within a radius of 10 km

Courier delivery:

Physical weight, kg
Sum of sides, cm
0-5 5-15 15-30 30-200 > 200
80 299 399 499 999 1499
110 399 399 499 999 1499
140 499 499 499 999 1499
270 999 999 999 999 1499
> 270 1499 1499 1499 1499 1499

Delivery to pickup locations:

Physical weight, kg
Sum of sides, cm
0-5 5-15 15-30 30-200 > 200
80 199 299 399 799 1299
110 299 299 399 799 1299
140 399 399 399 799 1299
270 799 799 799 799 1299
> 270 1299 1299 1299 1299 1299

Courier delivery 10 – 30 km from Moscow
Physical weight, kg
Sum of sides, cm
0-5 5-15 15-30 30-200 > 200
80 399 499 599 1199 1699
110 499 499 599 1199 1699
140 599 599 599 1199 1699
1199 1199 1199 1199 1699
> 270 1699 1699 1699 1699 1699

Courier delivery 30 – 100 km from Moscow
Physical weight, kg
Sum of sides, cm
0-5 5-15 15-30 30-200 > 200
80 499 599 699 1399 1899
110 599 599 699 1399 1899
140 699 699 699 1399 1899
1399 1399 1399 1399 1899
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Delivery within Russia

We also deliver orders throughout Russia .

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DYL Animal Drinker | Price: 9.99 €

Water is essential for the survival of all organisms. A dog or cat can survive without food for some time, but losing only 10 percent. water, the pet can become seriously ill, and having lost 15 percent. – even die. It is very important to ensure that your pet always has drinking water.This neck adapter fits together with various plastic bottles. This is actually convenient, because after installing it, such a drinker can be attached to a cage, fence or transport box.

  • Made from acrylonitrile, butadiene, styrene (ABS plastic), stainless steel, polypropylene (PP), rubber and brass.
  • Easily attached to any cage, fencing, where the distance between the lattices is not more than 15 mm, as well as to the transport box.
  • Can be attached to the booth (there are no bolts in the package).
  • Various types of plastic bottles are suitable. You just need to install the neck of the bottle into the adapter and screw it on.
  • As an animal grows, its need for water increases. Therefore, it is necessary to change the volume of the drinker. When needed, simply replace with a larger plastic bottle.
  • Convenient to take on a trip, as it takes up little space.
  • Designed for both cats and dogs.
  • Pink or blue.

Made in Taiwan.


Pour drinking water into a plastic bottle and close the tip. After attaching the drinker, make sure the holder is securely and upright to the cage. First, press the steel ball at the end of the tube several times so that air bubbles enter the bottle and the water flows through easily.
Flush the tube only with room temperature water and sometimes neutral cleaners.

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