Bumph lining: Using Bumph as Interlining


Using Bumph as Interlining

Interlining is a layer of fabric that is sewn between the face fabric and the lining of window treatments.

Interlining is hidden by the outer layers of the curtain – even though you can’t see it, adding an interlining could mean the difference between your drapes being plush, full and beautiful – and being limp and listless, wilting and without substance.



Volume and drape

A layer of interlining gives your soft furnishings extra volume and body.  This is particularly desirable when using a light face fabric such as silk or taffeta, as it improves the drape and hang of the curtains for a luxurious and upmarket look.

Adding an interlining will add significant weight to your curtains.  Always ensure that your curtain rail is strong enough to take the burden of the curtains, and that it is strongly fixed to the wall.

Insulation and noise suppression

Each layer of fabric creates an insulating air pocket, reducing heat transfer between indoors and outdoors.

 See article: Insulating Your Home for information on how adding lining to your curtains helps to keep your home warm!

Sunlight protection

Interlining provides an extra layer of sun protection, protecting your soft furnishings from damaging UV rays.  Adding an interlining is essential when using a face fabric with a high silk content.  See article: Sun Damage and Fading for more infomation on how linings will help protect your fabrics from fading.


What is Bumph?

Bumph (also sometimes referred to as Bump) is one of the most common fabric used as an interlining.  It is bulky and flannel-like, with a brushed surface that gives it a lofty and substantial feel.

Charles Parsons Interiors offer a range of Bumph options to suit your needs!


European Bumph

Our European Bumph is a soft, fluffy fabric available in clean, crisp offwhite.  Composed of 100% polyester, this is an easy care interlining option.


Bumph Standard & Bumph Deluxe

Bumph Standard and Bumph Deluxe are 100% cotton linings with a organic, calico-like fleck, available in natural or white shades.


Bumph Micro

For extra body and texture, Bumph Micro is a polyester microfiber, with a volumous layer of loosely matted polyester fibre adhered to one side.  This interlining is perfect to add depth to a silk or taffeta curtain, or to add luxury and sumptuousness to upmarket designer projects. 


Charles Parsons Interiors are proud to offer high quality linings that will stand the test of time.  Contact your nearest stockist to request a sample today!

Paint and Bumph – questions answered on both topics

What is Bumph?

Also the Difference between Enamel and Latex Paint
Question: First I want to thank you for your advice today. I have 2 questions. I am an interior design student and was watching an American television show when the aired an apartment in the UK. They mentioned the drapery was lined with a “bumph cloth.” What is a bumph cloth, what is it made of, and what is it purpose? Somehow I think it acts as added insulation against the cold weather. I am working on a class project and learned that oil-based paint is better than Latex. I now have to come up with a budget and was surfing the internet and noticed that retailers in the US sell only acrylic and latex paint, so my question is: Does the painter use powdered pigments and linseed oil to create an oil-based paint for interior painting? I also read on the internet that oil based paint yellows and cracks over time. How long does it take before this occurs? Once again thanks for any help!
From: Audrey, US

Answer: In reply to your queries. Bumph is a cotton waste interlining which is used to add body and insulation to curtains. It is a heavy blanket like cloth that is available bleached or unbleached.

As an interlining it is sewn in between the curtain fabric and the lining.
The paint question is tricky. I don’t feel that what you have been told is correct. Oil based and latex/acrylic based paints all have different uses, therefore one is better at some tasks than the other and vice versa. For example oil based paint is better for woodwork and doors, frames, skirtings etc, things that take a lot of wear and tear. Acrylic is better for general walls and ceilings as it is easier to apply and dries quickly. If you visit the paint section on our site we have extensive information on how these paints are put together, their advantages and disadvantages. (there are about 8 pages on paint so you have to read through, I am sure you will find it interesting.) I hope this will give you a better understanding. But to throw you right off, we are in New Zealand and here we now have acrylic paint that has all the properties of enamel (oil based) without the disadvantages! Technology is always working to make our life easier.

Written by Lee Brown

Difference Between Lining And Interlining Curtains

Difference Between Lining And Interlining Curtains

What is the difference between lined curtains and drop curtains?

Standard and blackout curtains are also available with canvas. Extended curtains have an additional layer of fabric between the upholstery and the outer fabric. The elongated curtains form rounder, fuller folds and appear plump and plump.

Also, what is the stabilizer on the curtains?

Stabilizer is a thick, soft, carpet-like fabric sandwiched between the outer fabric (the front fabric is a curtain or roller blind) and the lining. Lined and woven curtains absorb more noise and provide better insulation from cold and drafts than single film curtains.

Do you also know what is the difference between feed and stabilizer?

The lining is designed separately from the garment and attached by hand or machine to the front or hem. Lining is a fabric that is added to a garment when more warmth is needed, such as a winter coat. The fleece can be separated from the garment itself (it can sometimes be removed) or used as a garment.

People also ask: Should we make curtains?

Not all types of curtains require lining. Thinner cotton or polyester curtains should be lined so they don’t look faded. Even the best treatments can be worth feeding, as they will lengthen lifespan and prevent fading. It is relatively easy to cover the back of the curtains.

What is the best curtain insert?

Bonded cotton lining (cotton with interliner) Bonded cotton lining is a heavier lining (270g / m2) than blackout, regular or thermal cotton lining. This cover offers all the benefits of a cotton cover and is ideal for heat insulating curtains. Ideal for curtains and venetian blinds to add drape and appearance.

Do the unlined curtains come on?

While unlined curtains aren’t as heavy or protective as curtains, they have some advantages: Iconic: Insulated lined curtains aren’t always useful. In the summer, unlined curtains provide an easy way to create privacy in the home by allowing air to circulate through them.

Do the curtains block the light?

Window treatments can be much more than just a decorative touch in your home if you pay attention to curtain linings. For example, the insulation coating can be used to control the temperature of the house and keep it soundproof. Heavy fabrics and double curtains can act as a protection from light.

What is the tent made of?

Types of food

What does thermal power look like?

The thermal lining is a fraction of a millimeter thicker than the cotton lining and holds up well. If you choose a stabilizer, your curtains will fall very well. The extra weight and body of the canvas make it easier to hang and give your curtains or blinds a more luxurious look.

What does 3-step curtain film mean?

What is the bumph liner?

Fleece is a layer of fabric sewn between the outer fabric and the curtain lining. Bump (also called bump) is one of the most commonly used substances as a stabilizer. It’s lumpy and flannel-like, with a brushed finish that gives it a tall, meaningful look.

Do velvet curtains need lining?

We also recommend that you wear your velvet curtain (see our LINING book) as this will prevent the hair from shedding and the fabric from fading in the sun. It also offers a better case. Always use a lining, even if the hair is lined. We recommend a synthetic or cotton filling.

How to make unlined curtains

Making curtains without lining: what types of interlinings are there? In general, stabilizers are soft, thick and flexible fabrics of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose or their blends, which can be coated with resin. There are two types of intermediate lines used in clothing production: thermo-adhesive and non-thermo-adhesive.

How many types of stabilizers are there?

What substance is used for animal feed?

The lining usually has a silky surface and consists mainly of silk, polyester, viscose, acetate or viscose.

What kind of fabric should I use for highlighting?

The most typical fabrics for accents are percale, silk organza and light cottons, but a variety of other fabrics can be used for this sewing technique. Simple or inexpensive fabrics such as muslin or even light ironing surfaces can be used as an underlining.

Why is an interface called backup?

Apparently, woven interfaces are like regular fabrics in that they have one warp and one partition. Boundaries where heat and radiation reactive adhesive is applied to one side are called fusible boundary surfaces because they are fused to the fabric with a steam iron and a damp print blanket.

What is the lining of the clothes?

In tailoring and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of cloth, fur, or other material that is used in clothing, hats, suitcases, curtains, bags, and the like. A smooth lining allows a jacket or coat to slide easily over other clothing, and the lining provides warmth in cold weather.

Can I use muslin with food?

What is domette?

John Lewis Domette Fleece is designed to be used between the face and lining material for curtains and blinds. Adds body to the curtains. Useful for finer fabrics such as light silk and cotton to add drape. Adds a feeling of luxury.

How wide is the curtain insert?

Difference Between Lining And Interlining Curtains

Linings | McKenzie & Willis

Linings | McKenzie & Willis Toggle navigation

When selecting your fabric, your interior designer will recommend an appropriate lining for your curtains or blinds from our range. Lining is essential to improve the fullness of a curtain and compliment the finished look. Quality linings will protect your fabric from fading and deteriorating, improve the lifespan of your curtains and blinds and efficiently insulate your home.

Sateen lining

The lightest weight of our linings, sateen is a poly cotton blend with a soft handle. Perfect for living areas where you’d like a light airy look with filtered light coming through the curtains.

Thermal one pass coated lining

Thermal lining is also known as one pass lining and has a layer of compound coating on top of a base cloth. Excellent for insulation as it traps a pocket of air between the layers.

Blackout three pass coated lining

Three pass lining is known as blackout and is comprised of three layers of coated compound on top of a base cloth. Perfect for bedrooms or other areas where you require a very dark room. Blackout is a heavy lining and provides superior insulation.

Dimout woven lining

A dimout lining is a triple weave construction with a black layer in the middle that allows a very minimal amount of light to show through the curtains. It has a soft weighty feel and looks lovely behind sheer fabrics or thin fabrics that require some fullness in the lining. Dimout linings come in various colours so are a great solution when you want to enhance a colour behind a sheer fabric. Ideal for living areas and bedrooms when complete blackout is not essential.

Bumph interlining

Bumph interlining is a cosy blanket like thick cotton or polyester lining that helps to give thin fabrics a lovely fullness. Bumf interlining is used in homes where a thick luxurious curtain is desired and where sound insulation is needed. Can be used on most fabrics.

Detachable linings

Should you want to be able to easily remove your linings for cleaning we can make detachable linings that hook onto the back of your curtains. Detachable linings are sewn on a small discreet gathered tape.

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Rest easy with our 30 Day Sleep Guarantee

Beds are as individual as the people who sleep on them which is why it is so important to find the right one for you. That’s where our bed experts come in.

We believe so much in our ability to find the right bed for the right person that we offer a 30 Day Sleep Guarantee. Our 30 Day Sleep Guarantee will allow you to rest easy in the knowledge that if you are not completely satisfied, we will exchange your mattress for another one.

What we will do

If after 21 days but before 30 days of trying your new mattress you are not completely satisfied, we will exchange your mattress with another mattress from our range. Plus we will cover all shipping costs by road within NZ!

Why do I need to sleep on it for 21 days?

We require you to sleep on your new mattress for it at least 21 days. This is because it can take a couple of weeks for the comfort layers and support system of a new mattress to settle. We also know your new mattress may feel different to your old mattress and it can take time to adjust.

To take advantage of our Sleep Guarantee:

  • A Cumfysafe mattress protector must be purchased and used on your new mattress.
  • Our Sleep Guarantee applies to all standard mattress sizes which includes Single, King Single, Double, Queen, King and Super King- only California King mattresses and mattresses that are custom made to size are excluded.
  • You are able to exchange your mattress once under out Sleep Guarantee.
  • Slat bed frames and beds marked as clearance beds are excluded from the Sleep Guarantee.
  • The Sleep Guarantee is void if the mattress shows any visible sign of abnormal wear, stains or rips.
  • You are able to exchange your mattress for any other mattress within our range however, the new mattress will be at the price on the day of exchange and the returned mattress will stay at the price on the day of purchase.
  • If your new mattress is a lower price we will refund the difference but if it is higher you will need to pay the difference. If your original purchase was part of a gift voucher promotion the voucher amount will be taken into consideration. The Sleep Guarantee is for an exchange not a full refund.

Free Delivery NZ Wide

We make it easy to buy with free delivery NZ wide by road on our entire bed range. There is no minimum order and it doesn’t matter if you are at the top of the North Island or in the south of south. Did you know you can also purchase our entire range of beds online with free delivery as well- it couldn’t be any more convenient to buy a new bed!

We organise a delivery time convenient for you

As our beds are made to order, a team member will be in contact with you to organise delivery following receipt of payment. This means we can organise a time convenient to you within usual business hours – we will work around you so you can ensure you will be home with no guesswork involved.

Delivery time is usually 2-3 weeks but can vary depending on delivery location or manufacturing lead times. For current lead times or if you need your new bed sooner than that, please contact one of our bed consultants for more information.


Buy with confidence with our Best Price Guarantee

When you buy your new bed at McKenzie & Willis you can be sure that you’re getting the absolute best price possible – we even guarantee it for 60 days!

What we will do

If you see a better price advertised for the same bed by us or anyone else in New Zealand within 60 days of purchase, simply email or bring in proof of the advertisement and we will refund the difference. *

We work hard to always give you the best deal

We work hard to ensure our prices are always the lowest available. Our policy is to always give you the best deal, both online and instore, no matter which showroom you visit. We do our research and pay close attention to the market to ensure we are always giving our customers the very best price available on their new bed.

*Best Price Guarantee excludes used, damaged, returned, ex display beds and promotions including a Gift Voucher.


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What is interlining for curtains?

Interlining is a thick, soft blanket-like fabric which is sandwiched between the face fabric (the front fabric a curtain or blind) and the lining. Lined and interlined

curtains absorb more sound, and provide greater insulation from cold and draughts, than curtains with just lining.

Click to see full answer

Similarly, what is the difference between lined and interlined curtains?

Both standard and blackout lined curtains are also available with interlining. Interlined curtains have an additional layer of fabric in between the lining and face fabric. Interlined curtains form more rounded, fuller pleats and have an opulent, sumptuous appearance.

Beside above, what is interlining fabric used for?

Interlining is a fabric added to a garment when more warmth is needed, like in a winter coat. It may be a heavy fabric with batting added, or a lighter weight one like flannel or fleece. Interlining can be constructed separately from the actual garment (it’s sometimes removable), or used as an underlining.

Secondly, what is the best lining for curtains?

Bonded Cotton Lining (Cotton with interlining) Bonded Cotton lining is a thicker lining (270g/m2) than normal Blackout, Cotton or Thermal lining. This lining offers all the benefits of a Cotton lining and is excellent for thermal insulated curtains

. Ideal for Curtains and Roman blinds to improve drape and appearance.

Do you need interlining in curtains?

Lined and interlined curtains absorb more sound, and provide greater insulation from cold and draughts, than curtains with just lining. Interlining is not just for curtains – Roman blinds also look great with added interlining. Interlined curtains can’t be washed, and have to be dry cleaned by a specialist.

Definition and synonyms of bumph in the English dictionary


is a noun. A noun is a type of word the meaning of which determines reality. Nouns provide the names for all things: people, objects, sensations, feelings, etc.



Find out the translation of bumph to 25 languages with our English multilingual translator. The
translations of bumph
from English to other languages presented in this section have been obtained through automatic statistical translation; where the essential translation unit is the word «bumph» in English.
Translator English –
Chinese bumph

1,325 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Spanish bumph

570 millions of speakers

English bumph

510 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Hindi bumph

380 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Arabic bumph

280 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Russian bumph

278 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Portuguese bumph

270 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Bengali পায়খানার কাগজ

260 millions of speakers

Translator English –
French bumph

220 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Malay Bumph

190 millions of speakers

Translator English –
German Klopapier

180 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Japanese bumph

130 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Korean bumph

85 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Javanese Bumph

85 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Vietnamese bumph

80 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Tamil bumph

75 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Marathi बम्फ

75 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Turkish bumph

70 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Italian bumph

65 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Polish bumph

50 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Ukrainian bumph

40 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Romanian bumph

30 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Greek bumph

15 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Afrikaans toiletpapier

14 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Swedish bumph

10 millions of speakers

Translator English –
Norwegian bumph

5 millions of speakers


The term «bumph» is used very little and occupies the 157. 500 position in our list of most widely used terms in the English dictionary. The map shown above gives the frequency of use of the term «bumph» in the different countries. Principal search tendencies and common uses of bumph List of principal searches undertaken by users to access our English online dictionary and most widely used expressions with the word «bumph».


The graph expresses the annual evolution of the frequency of use of the word «bumph» during the past 500 years. Its implementation is based on analysing how often the term «bumph» appears in digitalised printed sources in English between the year 1500 and the present day.



Discover the use of bumph in the following bibliographical selection. Books relating to bumph and brief extracts from same to provide context of its use in English literature.


Pass your exams: Study skills for success

To get through this stage of the study cycle and not just give up, you must beat the bumph. The first step to cutting through the bumph is to understand the difference between bumph and information. Bumph is all the information you may collect …


The British Drama: A Collection of the Most Esteemed …

Bumph. I don’t know but ’tis, so we walk in the west of England. Sir Har. Ay, right, Numps, and so we do — Ha, ha, ha! Pray, brother, observe his make, none of your lath-backed wishy-washy breed — come hither, Numps. Can’t you stand still ?


Rambles in Upper Wharfedale

Almost immediately after the members of the family had retired to rest, they were startled by a noise which proceeded from the kitchen : something went “bumph, bumph, bumph,” — three times, — and then there was a rattling of crockery, …

As the history of Xerox shows, if it gets easier to generate bumph, all that happens is that the same people generate more bumph, and a higher bumph– density becomes accepted as necessary for business efficiency. The word- processor will …


Transgender Identities: Towards a Social Analysis of Gender …

As long as you had all the bumph, there was a lot of bumph. A lot of the bumph was easy enough to deal with. ‘ (Tasha, Age 42). Tasha fulfilled the criteria for gender recognition and was able to provide the Gender Recognition Panel with the …

Sally Hines, Tam Sanger, 2010


Easter Edition. For The Love Of Parsley – A Guide To Your …

Bumph– If Bunny seems to be expressing aggressive behaviour but you really haven’t done anything yet then Bunny could quite simply just be having a moody day, hour or just a little temper tantrum session. Our Bunny throws her toys about,  …


An English-French Dictionary of Clipped Words

1919 (OED) bumpf, bumph [b.vmi ] n = bumfodder •* (papier hygtenique) papier- cul, P.Q., faf-a-train; (papiers divers) paperasses, papelards, papier-cul O They will go into the waste-paper basket with all the other bumph that idiotic fools . ..


The Kindly Ones: Book 6 of A Dance to the Music of Time

I’m up to my arse in bumph and don’t expect I shall be able to spare you more than a minute or two for waffling.’ I was annoyed by the phrase ‘bring your own beer’, also by being addressed as ‘my boy’ by Widmerpool. They were terms he had …


Actaeon and Diana; with a Pastoral Story of the Nymph Oenone …

5 Robert Cox. 12 ACTAEONandDI/INJ. Bumph. Yes, marry, did she. [Gm to her1/ 1 Coll/ends. But I was she that won him at the May-pole. 2d Co. Wench. Was that the cause you [trove so for the garland ? Bump/c. What’s that to you ? [GM to her.


Between Silk and Cyanide: A Code Maker’s War 1941-45

… withsilk one time pads. I then began describing how we handled our other dummy traffic, but Templarturned impatiently to Gubbins. ‘Colin,I thinkthe best thingwould be if Marks brought this dummy traffic and therestof his bumph tomyoffice at …


Find out what the national and international press are talking about and how the term bumph is used in the context of the following news items.

How to Get a Toddler to Sleep in a Heatwave

Attempt the usual bed time bumph even though your toddler knows that you know that he is not going down without a fight. 17. After the novelty … «Huffington Post UK, Jul 15»

SUV Review: 2016 Mazda CX-3 GT

Mazda’s claim that the CX-3 is capable of handling many of life’s adventures is perfectly acceptable marketing bumph (it falls within the . .. «Driving, Jun 15»

Elder Scrolls Online: A tourist’s guide to the ‘seven wonders’ of this …

According to the marketing bumph sent to Mirror Online, “madness lurks within” this misty dungeon. Shrouded in mist and featuring ominous … «Mirror.co.uk, Jun 15»

Big Brother 2015: Third time lucky for Sam Kay? Scots housemate …

In the bumph about her arrival in Big Brother it says Sam’s attitude is “flirt with the world and get stuff for free”. But she claims nothing will … «Scottish Daily Record, May 15»

J Cole set to play The O2 arena as Forest Hills Drive tour rolls into …

Named after his childhood home in Fayetteville, North Carolina the bumph surrounding his show on Monday, May 18, describes the record as . .. «The Wharf, May 15»

Letters to The National, May 15

During the election campaign the LibDems didn’t seem to be short of cash, with all the various leaflets and assorted bumph they posted to all … «The National, May 15»

Activist investors take aim at chief of Bank of New York Mellon

The efficiency drive has extended into the post room where BNY Mellon is mailing out less bumph, at a saving of $17m. Chart: Stock price: … «Financial Times, May 15»

Puzzle & Dragons Z + Super Mario Bros. Edition Review

The plot revolves around some further supernatural bumph, with the improbably named Dogma The Charismatic Destroyer breaking the world … «TheSixthAxis, May 15»

The power of visibility: why need to keep asking ‘where are all the …

I’ve looked at dozens of companies, at the blurb and bumph that gets produced, and it’s still all male, pale and stale. It’s the unwitting testimony … «The Guardian, May 15»

Spare a thought for the world’s editors

A part of this revolution involved a plethora of new bumph, forms and documentation circulating around departments. As a joke, I drafted a form, … «WA today, May 15»

Insulated and Thermal Curtains that save you money

When thinking about winter curtains, insulated and thermal curtains soon come to mind. Let’s investigate these, clarify some terms and expand your options. Some homes lose 25% of their energy through their windows, so this is a topic worthy of our attention.

We’ll consider:

  1. The option of changing curtains with the seasons,
  2. The more common choice of a year-round solution,
  3. Why lined curtains are better than their bonding-backed cousins, and
  4. The ultimate comfort of curtain insulation.

Do I Want Winter Curtains or Curtains That Also Work in Winter?

It’s nice to change your curtains with the seasons, but most don’t. Perhaps 95% of our clients install curtains that work all-year round. They don’t want winter curtains; they want curtains that also work in winter.

In response, our focus is on year-round solutions. This is more challenging than providing seasonal options; but with great staff and after years of experience, we’ve gotten very good at this! We bring a wealth of expertise and experience to our curtain-creation consultations.

We should also mention the ‘middle’ option, where you don’t change all the curtains in your home; you just change a room or two. In other words, create an all-year solution for most of your windows, with seasonal options for your priority living areas.

If you’re able to do this, it’s a very comfortable compromise.

Thermal Curtains That Work in Winter and Summer

When you are seeking a year-round curtaining solution, there are a number of factors we’ll need to unpack with you. Our focus will be on the elements and features we appreciate in colder months.

As a starting point, those who seek an all-year solution should keep in mind:

  1. Colours,
  2. Fabric, and
  3. Styles.

Neutral colours are a better choice when curtains are staying up year-round. Beige, ivory, warm whites, creams or cool stony greys are all relatively safe neutral choices. The goal is to use colours that don’t feel too warm in summer months, nor too cool during an uncomfortable winter.

Your fabrics should also strike a balance between the ideals of sheer and breezy lightness in summer and warming highly textured layers during winter. A medium weight fabric is best; something with substance but not bulk, preferably with thermal lining or backing and ideally, with insulation (see below).

When it comes to style, you need to tread a line between conservative restraint and adventurous extravagance. You don’t want to be too daring, but you also don’t want to be bland.

Striking the right balance can be quite a mission, especially after taking into account your furniture, lighting and other surroundings.

The goal is to have curtains that look good, facilitate comfort AND do that all year round. Creating that solution is exactly what we are renowned for! Call us on 0411 557 622 and we’ll explain the journey.

For Those Seeking a Winter Curtains Solution

Changing with the seasons delivers vibrancy and variety to your home. You have the luxury of embracing both warm and cool colours, adjusting as the seasons dictate. You can enjoy the breezy fall of a summer curtain and also delight in the luxurious comfort of multi-layered thermal winter curtains.

It is a richly appealing option for those who can pursue it.

When considering hues, shades and tones, we’ll offer you a broad colour palette, rich with opportunity. We’ll also provide an extensive range of sheer as well as voluminous fabric choices. Identifying both issues and opportunities, we’ll lay before you a smorgasbord of options to consider.

When it comes to selecting your winter option, pay special attention to the thermal curtain considerations that follow – especially interlining (bumph) and insulation options.

Thermal Curtains Perform Seasonally and Year-Round

If you can manage it and your climate justifies it, there is an ultimate winter solution. It includes five elements:

  1. Pelmets above and enclosing the full length of the curtain.
  2. Corner returns (so the curtain is hugging the wall)
  3. A substantive textured curtain,
  4. Thermal lining, and
  5. Insulation (or bumph).

Nowadays, pelmets are rarely installed, but some homes can have them cleverly and stylishly installed. The other four elements are attainable for most residences.

Some Thermal Curtain Lining Options

First, let’s explain the difference between thermal curtain lining and thermal curtain backing. Thermal lining is sewn into a curtain whereas thermal backing is glued. To remember the difference, visualise two methods. In the first, the curtain and thermal-backing are laid on top of each other, lined up and then sewn. In the second method, glue is used to attach the lining as a backing to the curtain.

Stitching is used to line a curtain. Glue (or bonding) is used to back a curtain.

But which is best?

Thermal backing is cheaper, but there’s a functional and aesthetic cost. A curtain that is bonded or thermal backed:

  • Does not fall as nicely.
  • Is vulnerable to degradation over time, as the sun, temperatures as well as wear and tear cause the backing to break up or peel.
  • Is easily damaged when bonded surfaces stick to each other, then tear when affixed curtain sections are separated.
  • We say thermal lined is better because a thermal lined curtain is essentially double-layered:
  • The curtain’s layers fold and fall as one.
  • There is no glue used, so the curtain is not vulnerable to glue degradation over time.
  • The curtains can be stored or left open without fear of the bonding surfaces sticking to each other.
  • There is higher heat retention.

We can offer you a significant range of lined and backed solutions. Phone 0411 557 622 or complete the form and we’ll explain how the process works and the outcomes it can achieve.
Before we can finish, there’s one more solution to consider: insulated curtains.

Insulated Curtains are the Ultimate Cozy Winter Warmer

To reach the peak of winter-warmth solutions, we also need to consider the benefits of insulated curtains.

Insulated curtains have an extra interlined layer. This extra wrap of warmth is known as bumph. Sewn between the face fabric and the lining, it’s the curtain equivalent of throwing on a thermal singlet.

You don’t see bumph, but you certainly feel its impact. Bumph is the curtaining ‘secret sauce’ for visual appeal and heat retention. Bumph is integral to both visual appeal and enduring warmth.

To Begin Your Insulated Curtain or Thermal Curtain Journey

Typically, within four to five weeks of ordering, your curtains will be keeping you warm and giving you pleasure. We can almost guarantee an impressive four-week create-and-hang schedule. When things get busy for us, we make the adjustment – we don’t ask you to!

When it comes to winter warmth and curtaining, a well-considered decision will extraordinarily increase your comfort level. Your decision transforms into a big bear-hug of comfort on a cold and biting day – if you get it right.

We’re in the business of ensuring that happens!

We’ve helped hundreds through the journey: phone 0411 557 622 or complete the form to have us walk alongside you. We’ll explain the process, help you prioritise your goals and then we’ll help you achieve them. You too can enjoy that satisfying warm bear-hug of curtain comfort!

Which laminate backing to choose?

Laminate is one of the most popular flooring today. Practicality, ease of installation and affordability allowed him to quickly conquer the flooring market. It is very easy to operate and maintain. But few people know that the service life of the laminate and its appearance by 80% depend on how competently the installation is made. And the success of the installation is largely due to the correctly selected substrate.

Some manufacturers even have the right not to consider claims for deterioration in the quality of the flooring, if the wrong substrate was used when laying the boards.In order not to be mistaken with the material, you need to know the answers to the following questions:

  • on which base the laminate will be mounted;
  • are there any floor differences;
  • what type of laminate will be installed;
  • what is the humidity and temperature in the room.

Why does a laminate need a backing?

Soundproofing. The underlayment suppresses footsteps when walking on the laminate.

Surface leveling. The underlay compensates for small differences in the floor. This is very important when installing laminate flooring, because the durability of the locks depends on the evenness of the base. Floor drops should not be more than 2 mm per 1 m.

Moisture insulation. Laminate is made from pressed paper, so even coatings with increased moisture resistance can swell when in constant contact with water Laying the underlayment under the laminate provide protection from moisture on the side of the concrete floor.

Thermal conductivity. A conventional underfloor installed under a warm floor reduces the efficiency of its operation, since the laminate itself and the underlay material have good thermal insulation properties. There are special underlays for underfloor heating.

So which substrate is the best? Let’s take a look at its varieties.

Substrate types:

Cork backing

This eco-friendly material is usually chosen as a substrate for a laminate in a bedroom or nursery. It is not subject to decay and mold. It lasts a long time, perfectly absorbs stride and protects against noise.

Cork backing is made from natural raw materials – crushed and pressed into granules of cork bark. Various substances can be used as a binder. Because of this, the following combined substrates are distinguished:

  • Bituminous cork
  • From cork chips
  • Cork sheet
  • Rubber cork

Please note that the plug has a high stiffness and coefficient of friction.Therefore, only very flat surfaces are suitable for it.

Expanded polypropylene

The substrate is not afraid of moisture and hides any unevenness in the floor. The air in it is well ventilated. The material is not recommended for use in rooms where it is planned to place large and heavy interior items. There is a high probability that air bubbles will burst at the substrate. This will lead to the fact that it will become different in thickness. The disadvantages include poor sound insulation.

Expanded polystyrene

Both Russia and China are actively producing a substrate made of extruded polystyrene under a variety of brands. Each manufacturer has its own characteristics. Expanded polystyrene is durable and can withstand serious loads. It does not allow moisture to pass through and is able to provide good thermal insulation.

Coniferous substrate

Coniferous laminate backing is a popular trend in recent years. The material is environmentally friendly and breathable, there is no greenhouse effect under the floor.But the needles are inferior to cork in elasticity. In addition, the minimum thickness of coniferous tiles is 4-5 mm. This is contrary to the requirements of many laminate manufacturers. The tiles are laid diagonally.

Rubber backing

Designed for rooms with high requirements for sound insulation and moisture resistance. Significantly reduces walking noise. Replaces unpleasant high-frequency sounds with low-frequency sounds (sound insulation> 29 dB).

Foil backing or reflective insulation

Such a base for a laminate is used quite often today. This is due to the ability of the substrate to retain heat as much as possible. The material is suitable for rooms with high humidity: the floor acquires an additional layer of waterproofing. When using such a substrate, the appearance of fungus and mold is excluded. The main drawback of the material is that it cannot be restored when deformed.

EVA foam backing

Such a substrate is not afraid of moisture and easily regains its shape after prolonged stress.Effectively reflects sound waves, dampens shock noises and vibrations up to a level of no more than 26 dB. The material is environmentally friendly and lasts an average of 25 years.

errors when processing splines with a lining

Before you start the master class “Processing splines in products with a lining”, read about the main mistakes when working with them. This will help you know what to look for and what might be causing it.

Slots are found in coats, trench coats, jackets, skirts, dresses.Their implementation requires certain skills and abilities. Otherwise, the following may turn out:

  1. The height of the spline does not correspond to the height of a person – it is short and breaks when walking.

Solved with a mock-up or at the first fitting. But keep in mind: if additional allowances are not left on the parts, then the height of the splines can only be reduced. It’s better to sew a layout after all.

On average, the minimum spline height is 1/3 the length of the skirt. If the product is free, then it can be a little shorter.

Another reason for rupture is a too sharp angle of inclination of the spline. Aim 20-30 degrees from the horizontal.

  1. The spline appears to be stretched.

It may have been stretched when overlapping or stitching the lining. The product needs to be ripped open, the details ironed out, checked against the templates, if necessary, equip and reassemble.

  1. The spline looks tight and uneven.

Most likely, the lining tightens, because on it above the slot there is no overlap for freedom ~ 1.5-2 cm long.Or there is no overlap at the bottom in the corners of the slots. Or, when working with the lining during the WTO, shrinkage occurred and it disappeared. Only overlapping the lining will help here.

  1. The lining is turned onto the front side of the product and twists the sides of the slots.

The configuration of the lining parts is violated here – the lining is larger than necessary. It must be reduced.

  1. The slot looks tight or, conversely, is falling apart due to an imbalance in the product.

Cause: Long or short back.The slot will become even after the balance is corrected.

  1. The sides of the splines are reversed.

If the slot is made correctly, then with the right hand we fall into it. If it doesn’t come out, you’ve got the sides mixed up. It is impossible to fix it, and a blockage is required. But in fact, few people know how the slot should be correctly positioned in the product, so we wear it as it is. 🙂

And now it’s time to start: “Processing splines in products with a lining.” And you may also be interested in the master class “Processing splines in products without lining.”Go for it!

June 10, 2021, 3:14 p.m.

Using the custom shim

First create a custom shim.

  1. On , Design tab , select Shims Under > Shims .

  2. Select Drawing Inline and select a picture or text and enter your watermark text in in the Text box.

  3. Click OK .

Then save the watermark for use in other documents.

  1. Double-click at the top of the page to open the top sheet.

  2. While hovering over a watermark, click until it displays a four-pointed arrow, and then click on the watermark to select it.

  3. On the Design tab , in the Page Background group , click Watermark .

  4. Select Save Selection to Underlay Gallery .

  5. Specify the name of the watermark and click the button OK.

To insert a custom underlay in another document, select it in the General underlays gallery.

First create a custom shim.

  1. On , Layout tab of page , select Shim under> Custom Shim > .

  2. Select Drawing Inline and select a picture or text and enter your watermark text in in the Text box.

  3. Click OK .

Then save the watermark for use in other documents.

  1. Double-click at the top of the page to open the top sheet.

  2. While hovering over a watermark, click until it displays a four-pointed arrow, and then click on the watermark to select it.

  3. On the Page Layout tab, under Page Background , click Underlay .

  4. Select Save Selection to Underlay Gallery .

  5. Specify the name of the watermark and click the button OK.

To insert a custom underlay in another document, select it in the General underlays gallery.

All about the lining

I am going to sew a dress from the cutest knitwear according to Burda.They offer to put a lining made of natural knitwear up to the chest line. But I think, is it necessary? What, the seams can go ?! Tell me please!

I think this is in order to tighten the bodice, it is better to keep its shape.

depending on which dress. If the fabric is thin, then the knitwear should be lined with the main one. If the knitted fabric is dense, then you can put the silk-stretch lining. And in general it is difficult to advise without seeing the model.

Osinochki, enlighten, pliii from
is it necessary to somehow adjust the lining when cutting it out of fabric along the shoulder line? the fact is that I do not correct anything, but on the jacket then the lining hangers are all sorts and it turns out that the armhole of the lining turns out to be superfluous in the area of ​​the armhole of the main product, and if you fasten the allowances on the reliefs (this so that the lining does not twist), then in the area of ​​the armhole you get an unsightly bubble (from the side of the lining).
I have suspicions that it is necessary to mow the shoulder more and cut a little ridge at the sleeve, but these are only suspicions. Maybe someone knows how to do it all right?

Ksyusha, I can share with you how I make the lining myself.
I usually cut off the sleeves by 2-3 cm (from the top point), or measure the armhole and cut it off so that there is a small fit, or I do without it at all. I shorten the shoulder seam by 1 cm, I do not mow the shoulder, although I think you are right, you can mow it a little.

* and if you fasten the allowances on the reliefs (this is so that the lining does not twist), then an unsightly bubble is obtained in the area of ​​the armhole (from the side of the lining).*
but where, excuse me, is he spinning ?? And why fasten the lining on the reliefs ??? The lining is attached only along the shoulder / rim and along the armhole / side. with a strip of lining, and the lining itself is cut even more than the base.
Ksyusha, I’ll throw off the zipped file for cutting and attaching the lining to the product for you, okay?

the file is not sent (
this is how the lining is cut (sorry for the quality)

Hello, I’m new! It seems to me that the question is extremely stupid, but I have not yet found an answer to it.

When can a product (skirt or dress) get around without padding? What role does he play? It is clear that if the product is transparent, you cannot do without it: 0)

And if it is dense enough? Why the question arose – I found a strange, very elastic, completely non-flowing and very beautiful fabric, I want to sew a narrowed skirt. In “Burda” all skirts are always lined, so I think – to be self-willed or to wait for an explanation.

Thank you!

The lining is needed for:
– to avoid deformation of the fabric
– “anti-prickleness” of the fabric (usually wool)
– the opacity of the fabric
– to insulate things
– etc.

Kaerlynn, judging by your descriptions, you do not need a lining.
Good luck

If there is a large percentage of synthetics in the fabric, then it is better to do it with a lining so that the skirt does not stick to the tights and fits better.

I would like to add to the above.With a lining, the skirt will wrinkle less, it will wear longer because the fabric does not deform, it seems it has already happened. And if the fabric sticks, then Lenore helps out well.

Ladies, thank you very much!
Is there any information anywhere on such a “theory”, what and why?

I, for example, only reached it by experience. And so it turned out all the “experimental” to formulate

Yes, I am just terribly embarrassed to ask seemingly stupid questions, to which, nevertheless, I do not know the answer.

And I will sew the skirt according to all the rules, with a lining)

I try to sew all narrow skirts with lining, recently with thin knitted ones.

Do you need a linoleum underlay?

Linoleum can be laid in two ways – on or without a substrate, both technologies are correct, and the choice in favor of either of them is made taking into account the circumstances.Substrate is the material placed on the sub-surface prior to installing the floor covering. This material prevents the outer coating from contacting the subfloor and performs the following primary functions:

  1. Smoothes out unevenness in the subfloor. If the rough surface has defects (pits, bumps, etc.), the insulating layer will not allow them to appear on the coating and cause its accelerated wear in the future.
  2. Provides sound insulation. To protect yourself from sounds heard from the lower floors, it is recommended to lay linoleum with a backing.
  3. Reduces heat loss. If there is earth or a cold basement under the base of the floor, or if the selected flooring does not have an insulating layer in its structure, you can and should put a substrate under the linoleum. If there is no need for additional insulation, an insulating layer is also not needed.

The substrate is laid on a leveled and cleaned work surface and fixed to it with an adhesive on polyurethane or artificial resins.The individual strips of this roll material are connected to each other with an assembly tape.

Arguments against the underlay

According to the generally accepted technology of linoleum flooring, the subfloor must be:

  • strong, without peeling parts, rotten areas, etc .;
  • smooth – with smooth horizontal changes up to 2–7 mm, depending on the characteristics of the selected coating;
  • clean – free of paint stains, debris, dust, greasy and oily traces;
  • solid;
  • dry.

Therefore, most experts are of the opinion that it is not necessary to lay the substrate under the linoleum, but it is better to pay more attention to the preparation of the subfloor. In addition, linoleum on a substrate is widely available for sale. This material already has a fabric, jute and polyvinyl chloride base in its structure, i.e. it is insulated and does not need an additional layer of thermal insulation. It is necessary to lay the substrate only under the linoleum, which has no basis, in order to provide the floor covering with the required insulation.Moreover, a substrate for linoleum is needed with high strength and stiffness.

Varieties of substrates for linoleum

When evaluating which substrate is better suited for linoleum, the following can be chosen:

  • Cork – an insulating layer of fine tree bark without the inclusion of synthetic additives. It has excellent sound and heat insulation performance, an original cellular structure and excellent performance characteristics. Walking on this floor is very comfortable and pleasant.Each of the cells contains air bubbles, thanks to which the weight is evenly distributed over the entire floor covering. In addition, the cork material is not afraid of high humidity, does not deform and provides effective protection to linoleum. As for the shortcomings, the price of cork material is quite high, and due to its low rigidity, it does not withstand too much loads and bends (for example, under massive furniture).
  • Jute – a natural insulating layer made from plant fibers containing a flame retardant to resist rotting and burning.It has the ability to absorb and wick moisture away without becoming wet. Jute linen has excellent thermal insulation properties and allows you to effectively solve the problem of a cold floor, and also contributes to the creation of a favorable microclimate in the room. When buying jute linen, remember that the denser it is, the better its performance characteristics.

  • Linen is a natural layer that maintains natural ventilation between the subfloor and the top covering.Due to this, the occurrence of moisture and fungus is not allowed, and a favorable microclimate is maintained in the room. During manufacture, this material is processed with fire retardants to protect it from rotting and the appearance of insects.
  • Combined layer of jute, linen and wool – it has excellent thermal insulation properties and is resistant to wear, high density, good strength characteristics and moderate rigidity. It is enough to lay such a substrate under the linoleum, and you will not have to walk on a cold floor.Another plus of this material is the treatment with antifungal drugs and fire retardants.

Important! It is not necessary to lay the foamed substrate under the linoleum – although it attracts with an affordable price and has excellent qualities of a heat insulator, during operation such material quickly crumples, loses its shape and does not solve the tasks assigned to it.

Do you need a linoleum underlay on a concrete floor?

If you plan to lay linoleum on a concrete base, it is not necessary to lay a substrate under such a coating.Simply level the sub-floor using a self-leveling compound or traditional screed and let it dry completely. A classic screed dries and hardens for at least a month, and at low temperatures, high levels of humidity and poor ventilation – much longer.

Tip: To check if the screed is dry, you need to tape a piece of plastic wrap to it and leave it overnight. If the film is dry in the morning, the base is ready (just do not forget to thoroughly clean it from dust).

Answering the question of which substrate to choose for linoleum on a concrete floor, experts recommend that you simply prepare the base well. Self-leveling mixtures are best suited for these purposes. If you are installing a sub-base flooring on a perfectly flat subfloor that is free from visual defects, it does not need any insulation layer. The need for it may arise if you plan to lay a baseless coating or have not prepared the base with sufficient quality (minor irregularities remain).

Important: Do not use plywood or other wood material to level the concrete floor, as it absorbs moisture and deforms. As a result, the performance of the coating deteriorates rapidly.

Do you need a linoleum underlay on a wooden floor?

Another common question – is it necessary to put a substrate under the linoleum when installing it on a wooden floor? As a rule, if there are all kinds of defects on a wooden base (pits, bumps, cracks, etc.)) plywood is laid on it with a layer of 8–12 mm, which plays the role of a substrate.

But if the floorboards are well preserved, there is no need to use plywood. Small cracks and irregularities are removed using a special putty. If the sub-base is well prepared and the floor covering is used on the sub-base, there is no need to install an insulating layer. It is necessary only for linoleum without an underlay and for masking minor imperfections in the subfloor.

If linoleum is placed on ceramic tiles, it becomes both an excellent base and a substrate.In the presence of deformed tile joints, cracks and other defects, they must be eliminated using a self-leveling mixture. After drying, the surface is cleaned with sandpaper and cleaned of dust. Do you need a linoleum underlay in this case? The answer is no, you just need to prepare the foundation well.

In some cases, it is allowed to lay linoleum on the old linoleum, but only if it holds firmly, is perfectly flat and whole, without holes and deformations. Before applying a new floor covering, the old linoleum, which plays the role of a substrate, is degreased and covered with an adhesive.In other cases, the old floor covering is dismantled.

When should a backing be laid under linoleum?

Many buyers have a question, is it possible to put a substrate under the linoleum? It is possible, and in some cases even necessary. A linoleum substrate is really needed if:

  • You are dealing with a cold substrate, for example, in a private house, in a country house, or in an apartment on the ground floor – jute canvas or a mixed substrate made of jute, flax, etc. wool.

  • Despite all the measures for leveling the subfloor, minor irregularities remain on it – the insulating layer will smooth them out and provide the coating with a flawless appearance.
  • You are using a coating without a base – its heat-shielding properties are often not enough to achieve a comfortable floor temperature, therefore it is recommended to lay base sheets on an insulating layer.
  • If you want to get the maximum noise insulation from the neighbors below – this problem of apartment buildings will help to solve the additional use of an insulation layer.

As a rule, the linoleum substrate is placed only in the cases listed above, and in the rest, the floor covering is laid directly on the base.


  1. The linoleum substrate will not mask significant imperfections of the subfloor, therefore, proper attention should always be paid to leveling and tidying up the base.
  2. To determine whether a linoleum substrate is needed in a particular case, weigh the pros and cons.
  3. If you bought baseless linoleum, or you need to get maximum heat and sound insulation of the floor, or you want to hide minor flaws in the base, the underlay will be useful.
  4. A coating on a backing made of jute, PVC or fabric perfectly copes with the tasks of noise and heat insulation alone, without adding any layers of insulation

3 ways how to lay the laminate on an uneven floor

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For a long and high-quality operation of the laminate, the equality of the rough screed and the quality of the substrate, which is mandatory, are very important. The presence of unevenness in the base, pits and bumps, as well as cracks, negatively affects the locks of laminated panels and leads to additional loads on them.

Stepping on irregularities, the laminated board will bend, and the lock connection will be under even greater pressure. Such a constant load leads to loosening of the material and the appearance of cracks, which will significantly reduce the service life of the flooring.

How to level the floor under the laminate? Today we will look at three different ways of leveling the base, so that you can choose the right one and complete the flooring according to all the rules.

Method number 1: application aligns the substrates

There is a misconception that the thickest underlay is the thickest one.But, this is not at all the case. The standard adopted was a permissible variation in the height of the base of 2 mm. It is these parameters that manufacturers rely on when they give a guarantee for their product. With such minor defects, the internal stress of the coating does not lead to loosening of the tool joints.

If the defects and irregularities of the screed are more significant, you can try to take a thicker substrate, but NOT from polyethylene foam or polystyrene, or, you will still have to level the screed.

So, since even the highest quality screed leveling work cannot be done perfectly, we advise you to pay attention to the leveling pads.are:

  • polyethylene foam
  • polystyrene
  • from extruded polystyrene foam
  • polyurethane
  • cork (including crust-bitumen and crust-rubber)
  • fiberboard

Leveling properties are determined by the thickness and strength of the substrate. The optimal thickness is considered to be 2 mm for standard types of flooring. The last, fiberboard, among which sheets, 4 mm thick, have proven themselves well.If the base has irregularities of more than 5 mm, then it is better to choose 12 mm “ISOPLAAT”.

It is also worth trying cork, which has sufficient strength and thermal insulation.

Method number 2: leveling the screed

If the house is new, there are much more chances for a flat foundation. In old houses, the rough screed was done carelessly, since it was all covered with either a board or parquet. By the current state of parquet in many old apartments, it is quite possible to judge the condition of the subfloor.

Concrete screeds (slabs) are leveled as follows:

  • after removing the old coating, clean the concrete from dust and debris
  • in the presence of cracks, obvious pits or chips, you need to lay them with a cement mortar; with large irregularities, it is easier to fill everything with cement mortar, but in this case, further work can be carried out no earlier than after 2 weeks
  • treat the surface with a primer, you can waterproof (this will improve further adhesion of concrete with the final screed)

If it is not possible to mess with cement, there is another way: more modern and expensive – Self-leveling mixtures.

  1. Just dilute the content in water (detailed instructions are attached to the product), stir well and pour onto the concrete.
  2. Smooth with a trowel, and use a roller with rubber spikes to avoid solidified bubbles. Such a screed hardens much faster: you can start the next stage in a few hours.

What if the base is wooden?

It is not news that this kind of surface will be completely uneven. Using a sling machine can help and align the joints.To check the base, take a level Device for checking the horizontal …

  • If the board squeaks, inspect the logs and re-fasten the board.
  • Putty will help get rid of cracks and cracks.

If irregularities are visible with the naked eye, there are two options:

– immediately cover the base with plywood sheets and attach with self-tapping screws

– use self-leveling mixture

Method number 3: vinyl laminate and its advantages

Replacing the laminate from chipboard or fiberboard with vinyl (flexible) eliminates problems with an uneven floor, since it can be laid on a surface with defects.

Vinyl laminate is produced in the form of strips, as usual, BUT the composition is different: the upper layer is a mixture of aluminum oxide with polyurethane, and the lower one is vinyl.

The vinyl layer is offset a few centimeters and covered with smart adhesive tape.

When closed, the strips are firmly glued to each other in the end part. In this way, a “floating” coating is obtained, not attached to the base. He is not afraid of irregularities even 5 mm. Product class 42-43, which means increased strength.Additional advantages of vinyl laminate flooring include its good moisture resistance properties.

We hope our article was useful to you. Choose the most suitable method for money and effort. We wish you a successful result!

Substrate for linoleum on concrete and wood floors

Linoleum flooring is quite popular. Its attractiveness is due to its affordable price, variety of choice, durability.But before laying the material, it turns out that linoleum can be laid in different ways. In the first version, a linoleum substrate is used, and in the second, without it.

There is no consensus on how best. Some argue that this is a waste of money, and you can safely do without a backing. Others argue that without it, you cannot lay the coating. Let’s figure out how much it is needed, what its functions and what materials are used for the substrate.

What is an underlay?

Linoleum underlay is a special material that serves as an interlayer between the floor covering (in our case, linoleum) and the floor.

Laying linoleum

The functions performed by the substrate are as follows:

  • Leveling uneven floors;
  • Thermal insulation;
  • Noise isolation.


Depending on the type of material from which it is made, the substrates are quite diverse. Each of them has its own pros and cons, which will help you decide which linoleum substrate is better.


Jute backing

This backing consists of jute fibers.Previously, only burlap and ropes were produced from plant fibers. Now jute fibers are used in the manufacture of building materials.

A jute substrate, in addition to being natural and environmentally friendly, has the ability to absorb moisture and remove it, while not letting it go further and not getting wet. To prevent the appearance of mold and parasites, it is treated with special means. The main disadvantage of such a substrate is its high price. Therefore, it is rarely used.


Synthetic underlay for flooring

In contrast to natural materials, underlays made of various synthetic materials stand out. Among them, foil is especially popular. It consists of two layers, connected with a special glue. The first layer is aluminum foil and the second layer is polyethylene foam or polystyrene.

The foil substrate is safe for health, has not only thermal insulation, but also waterproofing properties.Suitable for use in premises of any purpose.


Coniferous substrate

For those who prefer natural materials, there is a new product on the market – coniferous substrate. The manufacturing process is similar to the production of laminated flooring, but the wood fiber is not compressed tightly. For its manufacture, coniferous wood is used.

The material has sound and heat insulating properties, but is fragile in use. A plastic wrap must be used under the substrate on the concrete floor to prevent moisture absorption.


Another type of natural interlayer is a cork backing made from crushed bark of a cork tree by pressing.

Cork interlayer

Cork is an excellent material that is non-toxic, does not burn, has anti-static properties.

Among the disadvantages of such a material are its high cost and soft structure, which is subject to being pushed through by heavy objects.

It is important to know that the cork backing for linoleum should be of the maximum degree of rigidity.

Linen pad

Linen fabric

This backing is made from flax fibers by double needle punching. To prevent the growth of mold and mildew, the fibers are treated with flame retardants. The material is highly breathable, safe, and at a price much cheaper than a cork layer.


This type of material is quite common in production. The foamed substrate has good thermal insulation and sound-absorbing properties, an affordable price, but it is not recommended to use it under linoleum.Under it, the substrate is crumpled and loses its properties.

Good heat insulator

Linoleum base

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor covering, the subfloor must be carefully prepared. Linoleum is elastic in its structure, and over time it repeats all the forms of the base on which it is laid.

Therefore, any substrate must meet the following requirements before installation:

  • Strong and level surface;
  • Solid subfloor;
  • Absence of paint traces;
  • Lack of moisture and greasy stains.
Plywood base

Meeting these conditions will help extend the life of the coating.

On a concrete base

Remember that linoleum is laid on a concrete floor at a temperature not lower than 18C and humidity not higher than 68%. Before laying, the floor covering is spread, leveled, and time is given for the material to “lay down”. Then they start cutting the material.

The cover is laid out taking into account the location of the pattern, and a margin of 10 cm is left at the edges.After gluing the cover, the remnants can be carefully trimmed off. All formed seams should be located from the window in the direction of the light so that they are invisible. For styling, you will need the following tools: roller, knife, ruler.

Preparation of the concrete base

There are several options for laying linoleum on a concrete floor, which, if desired, can be combined:

  • Without glue – fast method, used in small rooms;
  • On scotch tape – while the linoleum is fixed with adhesive tape, which prolongs the service life;
  • Using mastic or glue is the most effective way of laying, and for rooms with a large area it is necessary.
Installation with glue

The choice of installation option depends on the area of ​​the room and the loads. But in order to avoid the formation of folds and waves, it is better to glue it. Also, in each case, it is determined whether a substrate is needed for laying under linoleum on a concrete floor.

On wooden floor

A wooden floor can be used as a base for flooring. A linoleum underlay on a wooden floor is not required, since floor boards keep heat well. Only the floor needs to be prepared before the flooring.Replace unfit boards, clean up, hammer in all protruding nails and repair all cracks and crevices.

Base wooden floor

After leveling, a primer is applied to the wooden floor, which creates a protective layer against moisture, insects and mold. After the boards are completely dry, you can start laying the flooring material.

Sometimes plywood is lined on a wooden floor as a backing for linoleum. In addition, plywood can thus hide all the unevenness of the wooden floor. Plywood is stacked with an offset, cleaned, and the seams are sealed with putty.

Laying without backing

Laying linoleum is the same as on a concrete floor. In the process, the question arises: do you need a linoleum substrate on plywood additionally, as a heater? Of course, it can be used as an additional measure to extend the life of the floor material.

See what kind of insulation for linoleum on a wooden floor is better to use. These are usually soft and loose materials that easily take shape.

Linoleum for linoleum

It is possible to line a new coating on the old linoleum if there are no defects on it and it is impossible to remove it from the floor surface.In this case, the old coating will serve as an insulating layer.

Restoration of defects on the old linoleum

If there are defects or breaks on the old coating, restoration is required beforehand. Then the surface is sanded with sandpaper, and a primer is applied. Only after such preparatory work can new flooring material be laid.

For ceramic tiles

When laying linoleum on ceramic tiles, first, the tiles are cleaned of all contaminants, the seams are covered up flush with the tiles.After the leveling mortar has dried, the surface must be well polished, after which the final screed is made. After the screed has dried, the floor covering can be laid. It is recommended to lay linoleum on a substrate in order to avoid subsidence of it at the seams.

Screed on top of ceramic tiles

It is difficult to lay linoleum on glossy tiles. This will require significant financial and physical costs. Therefore, such a flooring should be removed, and not lined with a covering.

When substrate is needed

There are situations when you cannot do without the use of a linoleum underlay. Below are the installation options in which the underlay is a necessary component.

Cold floor

We insulate the floor

In the presence of a cold floor, laying the underlay is obligatory. This will help keep the floor from drafts and make the floor warmer. For such purposes, it is better to use a combined linen, wool and jute backing. Walking on such a floor will be warm and pleasant.

Uneven floor

Floor surfaces are often not perfectly smooth. Even after the concrete screed, there may be minor imperfections on the surface, which will be noticeable after the covering is laid. A special underlay for linoleum on a concrete floor will help to eliminate these shortcomings, as well as additionally make it more comfortable for walking on it.

Elimination of deficiencies

Baseless linoleum

There is linoleum on sale, which has only one layer.When laying such linoleum, in addition to the lack of heat on its surface, over time, all the flaws in the base of the floor will appear. It is imperative to lay the substrate under this look.

When the substrate is negligible

Except for the cases listed above, linoleum is laid without a substrate. These include laying the flooring on an old covering or when using multi-layer linoleum. When laying on an old coating, it is pre-checked for irregularities, flaws, which can shorten the service life of the new coating.

Without backing

In multilayer linoleum, the bottom layer acts as a substrate. The most common bottom layer in a multi-layer coating is polyvinyl chloride.

Its expansion coefficient is the same as that of the floor covering, which means that when heated, the linoleum will not warp.

Conclusions – what to do in the end

In the end, I would like to summarize and answer the question: do I need a substrate for linoleum?

With high-quality preparation of the subfloor, when all irregularities and imperfections are eliminated, linoleum can be laid without the use of a substrate.In addition, there are types that are already produced with an insulating layer, they do not need an additional layer.

In the absence of a flat surface, the presence of a cold floor and the use of baseless linoleum, laying the underlay is mandatory.

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