Borrowing designer dresses: Store Location Listing

Содержание

The 10 Best Clothing Rental Services Money Can Buy

Every once in a while, the iconic picture of Cher Horowitz standing ankle-deep in a sea of clothing on her bedroom floor circulates on social media and I’m reminded of exactly what my bedroom looks like…anytime I get dressed. After about two-to-three outfit try-ons, I usually admit defeat and settle on something either super comfy—tracksuits are my aesthetic—or something super basic. But then, my co-workers introduced me to the world of clothing rental services (Rent the Runway is an ELLE.com editor favorite).

As someone who loves to own their own clothes, I asked the tough questions: Is renting clothing actually better then committing to a purchase? Which ones are actually worth the monthly fee?

I did what most clothing rental skeptics would do—research. Ahead, the ten best clothing rental services that’ll completely transform your closet.

Rent the Runway Unlimited

          Why you’ll want it: Looking to standout of the crowd as you catch the bouquet at your friend’s upcoming wedding? Maybe you have a job interview at a known cool company and want to impress your potential employer. Or maybe your closet is in dire need of a tune-up. Rent the Runway has excellent occasion-wear and fashiony work-wear, including designer pieces from brands like Tibi, Rejina Pyo, Club Monaco, Tory Burch, Reformation, Jason Wu and more

          How it works: Choose from two plans: Unlimited or Update. Unlimited offers members over 650 designers with items valuing up to $3,000; there’s also the unlimited option to swap items. For those who chose Update, you choose from 400 designers items valueing up to $300, but you can only swap once a month. Still, both memberships allow members to rent four items at a time.

          The cost: RTR Unlimited, $159/month; RTR Update, $89/month

          RENT NOW

          Nuuly

          Nuuly

          Why you’ll want it: You already spend your paycheck on cult-favorite retailers like Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, and Free People, so why not rent from the good folks at parent company URBN each month hassle free?

          How it works: First, fill out a short quiz about your sizing and shape. Once your personal edit is complete, you can browse the clothing, which include new season items; choose up to six rentals a month. Laundry and clothing repairs are also included in the price. Buy can any item you love and Nuuly will give it to you at a discount which varies from brand to brand. Return the ones you don’t need to own.

          The cost: $88/month

          RENT NOW

          Infinitely Loft

          Why you’ll want it: Who wouldn’t want an endless closet of comfy basics and no-fuss work clothes? Infinitely Loft offers everything you love about Ann Taylor Loft —floral prints, warm knits, wrap dresses, etc.—in all the sizes, including maternity and plus.

          The details: After signing up, members browse the website to build their own dream closet—the more you add, the more intuitive the suggested picks become. Then click “prioritize” so Infinitely Loft knows you want first dibs on those items. Once the three pieces arrive, keep the best treasures for a discounted price (the website doesn’t specify the percentage). When you’re ready to return, just notify Infinitely Loft, slap on a pre-paid shipping label, and get ready to receive your next box.

          The cost: $64.95/month

          RENT NOW

          Banana Republic Style Passport

          Why you’ll want it: Banana Republic Style Passport is another clothing rental service that makes dressing for work quick and seamless process so you have more time for things that matter (lattes, sleep, podcasts).

          The details: After curating your own closet, you can rent three items at a time and wear them for as long as you want, or return them using your pre-paid label. You also have the option to get more items any time during the month (some services just do a single bulk shipment).

          The cost: $85/month

          RENT NOW

          Fashion to Figure

          Fashion to Figure

          Why you’ll want it: “Fashion is a state of mind, not a size range,” Fashion to Figure Closet’s site reads. The Fashion to Figure Closet rental service is made for women sizes 12–24 and XL–3XL who want a slew of clothing options to choose from.

          The details: Fashion to Figure Closet members can rent three styles from the proprietary brand, and can return and repeat as much as you want. If there’s an item you absolutely can’t part with, FTFC will knock a few dollars off the retail price just for you.

          The cost: $54.95/month

          RENT NOW

          Gwynnie Bee

          Why you’ll want it: Gwynnie Bee’s website has stylist-curated categories like work and weekend so members can easily browse clothing for every occasion. The service caters specifically to women sizes 10 to 32 from brands like Calvin Klein, ModCloth, and Addition ELLE Eshakti.

          The details: Before you even decide to commit to Gwynnie Bee, the company offers a free trial that allows customers to rent two items at a time for one month. After your trial period is over, the pricing increases based on how many items you want to take out at a time. The priciest box allows you to rent up to 10 items and costs $199.

          The cost: starting at $69.95/month for two items

          RENT NOW

          Vince Unfold

          Why you’ll want it: The rich-girl closet you’ve been pining for is suddenly within reach. Vince Unfold is a good way to try out the brand’s offerings, from breezy linens for an upcoming vacation to leather and velvet suits that’ll make you look and feel one hundred percent that bitch.

          The details: Vince Unfold members are encouraged to maintain at least 10 items in their virtual closet; the company sends four at a time. You can wear them for as long as you wish within the month and exchange them whenever you want all month long. Vince Unfold also offers members a discounted price on all its offerings so you can keep the ones you want or return your items for a new batch.

          The cost: $160/month

          RENT NOW

          New York and Company Closet

          Why you’ll want it: You can beat the mall crowd and get New York and Company’s latest arrivals delivered to your door.

          The details: New York and Company Closet gives members the opportunity to add up to 25 items to their virtual closet so there’s a better chance of getting pieces you truly love. Three of those items will be shipped monthly; return and replace your selects as often as you want.

          The cost: $49.95/month

          RENT NOW

          Style Lend

          Why you’ll want it: Think Real Real meets Rent the Runway. Style Lend allows members to rent designer items from other people’s closets. Hear me out: You get to rent designer bags, dresses, outerwear, anything from brands like Zimmerman, Self Portrait, Emilio Pucci, Chanel, Christian Dior instead of paying full retail price.

          The details: If you’ve ever wanted to take Chanel’s signature tweed suit for a test drive or haven’t yet decided if you want to add a Louis Vuitton handbag to your collection, Style Lend has all the brands you could ever dream of in its inventory. You can rent a designer piece for seven days, return it, then rent again. The super affordable monthly fee might come as a shock, but unlike other rental services, the inventory isn’t as expansive, you’re only renting items for a week, and can’t purchase the items you love (unless you speak directly to the seller and they’re okay with giving up that fur-trimmed Emilio Pucci jacket).

          The cost: $7.95/month

          RENT NOW

          My List at Bloomingdale’s

          Bloomingdales

          Why you’ll want it: Do the brands Frame, Zadig & Voltaire, Mackage, and Ba&sh set your heart aflutter? My List at Bloomingdale’s has over 75 brands and exclusive pieces for members to choose from each month.

          The details: Members start off by building their closet, then My List at Bloomingdale’s will ship out four of items. You can keep them until you’re ready for new items or buy them so they’re yours forever.

          The cost: $149/month ($99 for the first month)

          RENT NOW

          Nerisha Penrose
          Assistant Editor
          Nerisha is the assistant editor at ELLE.com, covering all things beauty and fashion.

          This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

          Best Clothes Rental Websites Online

        1. Marie Claire is supported by its audience. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn commission on some of the items you choose to buy.

        2. Dress rental sites have never been more popular. Why? Because they’re a great way to practice sustainable fashion, as well as saving money – especially if you tend to buy a dress for a special occasion without wearing it again.

          You’d be surprised how much we spend on clothes every month – which contributes to the estimated £140 million of clothing that ends up in landfill in the UK. This is especially relevant at the moment when there are fewer occasions for us to go out and therefore dress up.

          Shika, founder of luxury rental site FRONT ROW, says, ‘The pandemic has further polarised views around materialism, over-consumption and sustainability. The fashion industry is the second largest polluter in the world after the oil industry, it is one of the most resource-intensive industries in the world. Fashion has always been about the new, but that needs to change and the industry has a major role to play in creating a circular economy. As consumers we have power, increased demand and support for circular fashion models, has already directly resulted in more brands offering take-back programs, using sustainable materials. It’s important for us to ask ourselves some hard questions before shopping, am I going to wear this again? If not, then would it be better to rent it or can I resell it? The future is no longer in front of us. It’s circular.’

          Luckily, as dress rental has increased in popularity, so has the clothing selection. Sites like HURR, where I actually rent out my own wardrobe, are editor-curated for the best dress edit, with of-the-moment brands such as RIXO, Ganni, STAUD and more. You can for example borrow a Rixo dress for a week for around £50 instead of buying it new for £200+.

          Other sites allow you to borrow that designer handbag you’ve always wanted but can’t quite justify buying. Whichever item you’re after, here are the best dress rental sites.

          1. HURR

          About: This peer-to-peer dress rental service (you can also hire accessories and bags) has its finger on the fashion pulse, ensuring you get the latest trends delivered to your doorstep, but where it really hits the mark is the technology it uses. Founders Victoria and Matthew recognise the urgency of a dressing crisis, so they’ve served up a real-time ID verification, geo-tagging and AI-powered fashion stylists to ensure HURR is the most secure and trusted way to share your wardrobe.

          Brands: Rixo, Sleeper, Ganni, Victoria Beckham, STAUD, Dior, Rejina Pyo and more.

          How it works: This is a peer to peer service, so lenders are responsible for posting their own clothes, unless you choose to use HURR’s concierge service, which does it all for you, but you’ll get a lower commission. Plus you need to get approved before you start lending or renting, ensuring a legit service for everyone.

          If you’re renting, you can search by category (dresses, accessories etc), occasion (brunch, out out etc) or designer. Then narrow down your search by date, size

          How much? It depends on the item, but usually around 20% of the RRP, and the shortest rental is for 7 days. For both renters and lenders, HURR takes a 15% commission. Try it now at the HURR Collective.

          2. FRONT ROW

          About: The platform launched in 2016 and now stocks hundreds of items from over 50 international luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton, Dior and Chanel, many of which are not available from other rental platforms in the U.K. They also provide access to new season and cult fashion pieces hot off the runway.

          Brands: As well as global high end designers like Jacquemus, Chanel, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Burberry, they also have a great collection of Indian evening wear from some of the best Indian designers such as Manish Arora.

          How it works: Choose a style, book an appointment at the Mayfair showroom or online to ‘try it on’ and rent it out for 5 or 5 days. Once you’re done wearing it, use the prepaid label to return it via UPS collection or drop-off.

          How much? The rental price is between 10 – 25% of the retail price. The site charges a flat rate of £15 for delivery and also take a £50 block until the item is returned. The £50 is a requirement from insurers and will be released when the item is returned back in its original condition.

          Onloan

          About: The dress rental subscription platform works directly with brands on a wholesale basis with current and past season stock, they are not peer to peer. They positioned their subscription model purposefully because they want to support the industry and its designers, allowing them to gain value from the ongoing longevity of a garments life cycle.

          Brands: Sustainable leaders like Mother of Pearl, Maggie Marilyn, Stine Goya, Shrimps etc.

          How it works: This is a monthly rental service, so you can get the most wear out of your chosen items as you’d like. You return them at the end of the month and choose something for the following one.

          How much? £69 per month for two items (total items worth on average £500), £99 per month for four items (total items worth on average £1000).

          3. ROTARO

          About: Backed by a team of industry insiders and co-founded by former WGSN trend forecaster, Georgie Hyatt and partner Charlie Knowles created ROTARO from the belief that the future of fashion is to buy good basics and rent good fun. ROTARO renters can find their favourite styles from contemporary luxury designers to refresh their wardrobe or as a platform to discover new brands.

          Brands: Rixo, Ganni, Reformation, Cult Gaia, Vampires Wife, Zimmerman, Jacquemus, Cecilie Bahnsen and Stine Goya, offering a variety of sizes (UK6 – UK16) and styles that strive to be body inclusive and positive.

          How it works: Find your style, then select how long you want to rent it out for, Rotaro offers next day delivery.

          How much? You can rent dresses from as little as £15 on Rotaro.

          4. ENDLESS WARDROBE

          About: Endless Wardrobe works differently to peer-to-peer sites so rather than anyone being able to list their wardrobe, they buy the garments direct from partner brands, like De La Vali and Alexa Chung. There’s also a new feature that lets customers shop each style in three ways; rent, buy new and buy good as new.

          Brands: Alexa Chung, De La Vali, Free People, Whistles and more. This is great for premium high-street rentals.

          How it works: As the range is curated by the brand, there are multiple sizes in almost all items, and as they own the stock, they control all the logistics. Customers can book their rental up to three months in advance right up until the day before. They can choose from a 4, 10 or 16-day rental period, with a slight price increase for longer rental periods – holidays for example. Price includes delivery and dry-cleaning. Customers can order an extra size or style and return this unworn for a refund.

          How much? Around 10-20% of the retail price. See more at Endless Wardrobe.

          5. BY ROTATION

          About: Founded by expat investment banker Eshita Kabra-Davies, By Rotation is a dress rental platform based on inclusivity, with the aim to democratise quality fashion and make it accessible to all. It’s all controlled by the community rather than the other way round making it truly peer-to-peer. It also does not buy any inventory – so it is entirely sustainable.

          Brands: Dior, Jacquemus, Vetements, Chanel, Zimmermann and more.

          How it works:Download the free app and start browsing, there is no waiting list. The item can either be exchanged in person, via Royal Mail Tracked or via delivery partner Peyk. The lender is in charge of cleaning and cleaning solutions are offered by partner Clothes Doctor.

          How much? Around 5% of the retail price. The minimum rental period for any clothing or item can be as low as 1 day, and the app charges a 15% commission.Download the ByRotation app.

          6. MY WARDROBE HQ

          About: My Wardrobe HQ is a member’s only dress rental online platform, with a focus on sustainable fashion and making it possible for anyone to achieve an a-list wardrobe. Some items have been supplied by celebrities such as Poppy Delevingne, Arizona Muse, Roxie Nafousi and Olivia Buckingham.

          Brands: Henry Holland, Alice Temperley, Vilshenko, Vivienne Westwood, Chinti & Parker, Gucci and more.

          How it works: Customers sign up to a subscription service for just £9.99 a month and in return are given a bespoke service to fulfill all their high-end dressing requirements. Subscription also includes a home visit from a MWHQ stylist to discuss plans for what they want to achieve being a member of this exclusive fashion club. You choose an item to rent and it’s with you from our wardrobe warehouse within two hours in London.

          How much? £9.99 a month subscription, plus rental fees. As a rule of thumb, past-season items are listed at 10% of their RRP, while current season items are priced at between 10-30%. Sale prices are set by the owner and will vary. Rent at My Wardrobe HQ.

          7. GIRL MEETS DRESS

          About: One of the original dress rental services, Girl Meets Dress stocks over 200 designers and 4,000 dresses, so you’re pretty much sorted for any occasion.

          Brands: A mix of high street and designer brands such as Ghost, Needle & Thread, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu and more.

          How it works: You can rent up to three months in advance and as little as three days before your event, though the earlier you search, the more choice you’ll have. Anyone can rent on the site, and you simply need to return the dress via the post office once you’re done.

          How much? Rent at Girl Meets DressYou can hire dresses for 2 or 7 nights at a time, with prices starting from £19. If you’re a frequent renter, there is a £99 per month membership which lets you borrow three dresses at a time, free delivery and dry cleaning and extra discounts.

          Designer bag rental

          8. COCOON

          About: Launched in 2019, COCOON is a London-based monthly subscription service for lovers of designer handbags.

          Brands: From vintage to new season, there are style from all the biggest designers, from Fendi to Vuitton, Chanel to Bottega.

          How it works: For a £99 monthly membership you can choose a bag from the collection of the most sought-after new season, pre-owned and limited-edition styles.

          How much? £99 a month. Try it now on COCOON.

          How To Start An Online Dress Rental Business – Understanding The Business Model And Website Features

          Web-based dress rental platforms like Rent the Runway, Bag Borrow or Steal, Le Tote, etc. let the style-conscious people rent designer dresses, clothes for special occasions and accessories and have become the topic of discussion in the fashion industry.

          The idea of renting out dresses may seem odd at first, but the success of all the aforementioned platforms have proven the potential that this emerging marketplace.

          In this post, FATbit Technologies would like to educate aspiring entrepreneurs who want to launch a similar business by explaining the process they need to follow to build a dress rental marketplace.

          Read on and learn what online dress rental features you need to consider to make a superior website and app to rent out designer, weddings, prom or other dress collections.

          Business Model of Online Dress Rental Business

          An online dress rental portal is more than just a fashion company. It is also a technology company that is reinventing the fashion industry. The business model is based on strategic partnerships with multiple designers and agencies to give their audience access to their newest outfits and accessories.

          As a dress rental website owner, you will rent out items for up to one week and charge a certain percentage of the rental price as the fee. The fee covers the service charges, dry cleaning, and other minor expenditures.

          When an order is placed, the product will be dispatched from the vendor’s inventory with pre-addressed packaging. There should also be a provision for holding an insurance amount during the rental period to cover any sort of accidental damage.

          Online Dress Rental Business Revenue Model

          Besides making money from renting clothes, your online dress rental platform can generate revenue from the following channels:

          • Commissions: Get a small commission from every dress rental transaction on your website.
          • Advertising: Make advertising on website or app a part of your long-term monetization plan
          • Featured or Sponsored Listing: Allow dress owners to feature their offerings on homepage & other highlighted sections of the website in exchange for a small fee.
          • Subscriptions: Create an annual subscription model where users purchase a subscription in exchange for perks like relaxation in delivery fees, cashbacks or even a free dress rental on successfully registering themselves.

          In addition, you can also upgrade your online designer dress rental platform by adding a selling feature to it. Allow fashion brands to sell their products on your website, and it will serve as another source of revenue in the form of commissions from those sales.

          Top Online Dress Rental Marketplaces

          • letote.com
          • renttherunway.com
          • rentez-vous.com
          • bagborroworsteal.com

          Most of these dress rental websites cater to a specific geographical area. So, it would be wrong to consider them as a competitor to your dress rental portal, unless they operate in the same market that you are targeting.

          Now that we have understood the business model and have an idea about the top online dress rental marketplaces, let’s find out more about the required website features.

          Note: If you are planning to build a multi-vendor dress rental website powered by Yo!Rent, then make sure it has the most – if not all – features listed in this post. Let’s begin!

          Dress Rental Website Features

          As mentioned earlier in this post, your online clothing rental platform is more of a technology business, thus, its website should be loaded with interesting features.

          Let’s start with the homepage and highlight the elements that can make it highly conversion-focused and engaging.

          Homepage

          The homepage should focus on two important things that customers care about i.e. discovering and renting dresses. The homepage should also have a neat design and use the white space carefully. It should not be lengthy and only consist of the most important sections. Here are the most prominent ones:

          Banner: You need to add a pinch of innovation on the homepage banner by adding two conversion elements. One should take visitors to How It Works page while the other should start the dress booking process instantly. Don’t forget to use an image and a website message for the banner area to make it more attractive.

          Most popular styles: Some designers and dresses would be popular amongst customers. These should be displayed on the homepage in a slider to get visitor’s attention. The ideal place for this section would be below-the-fold area. In addition to dress images, the section should also display:

          • Dress name
          • Designer name
          • Rental price
          • Add to favorites option

          Seasonal Styles: The homepage should feature another eye-catching section that introduces the visitor to different seasons. This should be in the form of a dedicated page and display lists of seasonal collections. You may also add filters in a side panel to generate tailor-made results.

          In addition to that, you can offer a discount on the first purchase to encourage users to buy from your website or app and boost conversions..

          Make sure that they get to know about it by displaying a pop-up that highlights the discount & registration link when a user lands on the homepage of your dress rental website.

          A large number of e-commerce stores are following this strategy to increase user registrations and establish communication through email even if the visitor doesn’t place an order.

          Now, let’s take a step ahead and discuss how a website’s inner pages should be designed.

          Dress on Rent Pages

          Item pages of your website should be an inspiration for e-commerce stores as well as users. They should be highly informational with zero clutter.

          From renting process to image reviews, everything has to be organized while keeping the user experience in mind. It would be best if you cover the dress page one section at a time.

          Rental Form: The process of reserving a dress should be quick. Users should be asked about necessary information like zip code, size, delivery date and at the end of the form, there should be the ‘Reserve’ button. The following value added options can also be featured in the section:

          • Stylist notes: Details about product being in trend
          • Size and fit: Size guide table
          • Product details: Technical details about the product
          • Share buttons: Share product on social networks

          Dress Images: Like most online stores dealing in clothes, your website should consist of high-quality images clicked professionally. But you shouldn’t stop there. Beside the product images it should also have a place to display customers’ photos who previously rented them.

          These images can be fetched from reviews and would help the customers see how a dress really looks. Implementing such competitive features will add more value to your brand.

          Review system: The rating and review system should be implemented in a way that users can easily discover relevant reviews. Here are a few things you can  implement to deliver a satisfying user experience:

          • Filters like size, height and bust
          • Details like age, body type, and height
          • Review and photo sliders

          Recommendations Section: Sometimes, just one dress is not enough. That’s why your website and app should add a ‘You may also like’ section just below the product details.

          From design to implementation, everything should be right with dress recommendation feature.

          Up-renting (like upselling): A dress needs accessories to complete the look and you can give your users the option to get them using a ‘Complete the look’ section on the dress page that suggests supplementary accessories.

          Process Flow Diagram for an Online Dress Rental Platform

          Suggested Read: Launch A Multi-vendor Rental Ecommerce Marketplace with Yo!Rent

          Navigation

          On the main navigation bar, there should be tabs for main product categories like Dresses, Clothing, Occasions, and Accessories to lead users to the selected product category page. Other than that, following tabs can also be displayed to make the section easier:

          • Subscription
          • Designers
          • Stores

          Let’s discuss how the page tabs listed above should be designed and understand their unique features, starting with the Subscription tab.

          Subscription: This page deserves a special mention because it carries the service that is at the apex of a website’s revenue generation strategy. In order to accomplish the feat of making your customers rent from you on a daily basis, you need to come up with some engaging subscription plans. For example, year long free delivery, unlimited clothes, and more.

          Here is a list of sections that  improve engagement on the subscription page:

          • Banner with service introduction
          • Brand associations
          • FAQs

          Note: For all web designers working on rental clothing websites and apps, our recommendation is to plan & craft this page meticulously.

          Designers: Under this tab, list the designers associated with your dress rental marketplace. Designers should have a dedicated page that features an introduction about them followed by their products and their availability for rent or sale.

          Stores: Under this section, list the stores that act as physical addresses for a brand. Clicking on any store will take users to the respective store’s page, which should feature the following:

          • Services
          • Location
          • Hours
          • Contact info
          • Booking system

          It is recommended that you use a reliable third-party solution for booking functionality. This will reduce the website building cost and provide a secure and tested payment gateway to your customers.

          Product Category Pages

          How to find the right size, length, color, sleeve, body type, neckline, age, trend, style, and designer when looking for a dress? The answer is simple  — use filters. Make sure that you offer a detailed set of filters that give complete freedom to your customers and helps them search for what they are looking for in a seamless manner.

          Checkout Process

          The details required to rent or shop a dress were gathered in the beginning. Now, it is time to furnish the card with shipping details. Unlike most e-commerce stores, your dress rental website shouldn’t divide the whole process into different sections and wrap it all up on a single page. Don’t forget to emphasize the security of the payment gateway.

          Additionally, you can enable a feature that allows your customers to pick up the order from nearby locations instead of getting them delivered.

          User Account

          Through their account, registered shoppers should be able to view and manage every detail related to their orders, profile, and rewards. It should have dedicated sections for:

          • Upcoming order – View and modify your orders.
          • Order history – View history of your orders.
          • Profile – Update your profile
          • Credits – View referral credit available
          • Invites – Send invites to earn credits
          • Assessment – Submit personal details to get style assessment.
          • My Appointments – Appointment details with sellers

          Basically, users should be able to manage every aspect of their activities on your website and app through their respective accounts.

          Help Section

          Features of a dress rental website can be overwhelming for people who use e-commerce websites regularly. Hence, to simplify things for users your team should plan and deliver an extensive Help section. Major highlights of the Help section include:

          • How It Works page
          • FAQs
          • Contact Us page
          • Section to ask a new question

          Detailed search filters, intuitive contact forms, and links to other helpful resources should enable your website’s Help section to answer every query related to the website’s features and functionalities.

          Incorporating the features discussed so far will help you in building an ideal dress rental website. But why stop there? Take it a level further with the following recommendations.

          Quality Assurance

          Quality assurance is a challenging aspect of every e-commerce business. But since the products are reused things become more challenging for rental marketplaces.

          Renters get a dress in the condition it is displayed on the website, but when the dress is returned, will it be in the same condition?

          Such concerns that need to be addressed proactively to ensure a smooth sailing for your online rental business.

          Here are some steps you can take in this regard:

          • Charge an insurance fee from the renters to cover any unexpected damages
          • Conduct a thorough quality check before renting a product
          • Implementing the provision of insurance for expensive items

          Request an Item Option

          There is a possibility that your target market already has an online rental marketplace and maybe new ones will emerge with time. And in order to stand out from the competition, you need to offer something unique.

          Request an Item is one such feature. Its purpose is simple, if customers don’t find the dress or accessories they are looking for, they can request for it on your marketplace. In the long-term, this feature will also help you expand your product categories without spending extensive efforts on market research.

          Login Relaxation

          Not every visitor will be comfortable with registering right away. Many e-commerce stores let their visitors ‘like’ products and even add them to cart without registration. This feature can increase the time customers spend on your website or app and improve conversions and must be taken into consideration when building a dress rental website and app.

          Optimized Checkout Pages

          Every e-commerce store owner hates cart abandonment. Optimized checkout pages can play a pivotal role in minimizing cart abandonment rate. In an effort to close the deal on a single page, do not clutter the checkout section. Take inspiration from other e-commerce stores and implement a design that is a best-fit for your business.

          Other Features

          You may incorporate some other interesting features like creating a rental product calendar that displays real-time stock availability, define buffer days for product return, block unavailable dates for rented products and extend rental duration from the admin panel.

          Yo!Rent makes it easy to start an online dress rental website

          Bonus Readings:

          Here are some comprehensive business model & website feature guides, we have covered on various online rental marketplaces:

          Now launch online single-vendor rental store with YoRent- Check Demo

          Conclusion

          The rental model has its positives, especially when it comes to variety and savings. Incorporate the features and recommendations mentioned in this post and create your own advanced online dress rental platform today. Make sure it is flexible so that changes and enhancements can be made.

          Disclaimer: The Blog has been created with consideration and care. We strive to ensure that all information is as complete, correct, comprehensible, accurate and up-to-date as possible. Despite our continuing efforts, we cannot guarantee that the information made available is complete, correct, accurate or up-to-date. We advise – the readers should not take decisions completely based on the information and views shared by FATbit on its blog, readers should do their own research to further assure themselves before taking any commercial decision. The 3rd party trademarks, logos and screenshots of the websites and mobile applications are property of their respective owners, we are not directly associated with most of them.

          Where (and How) to Rent a Wedding Dress

          Fact: Wedding dresses aren’t cheap. Generally costing at least four figures (sometimes more), the price of a gown sounds even more expensive when you consider that you’ll only be wearing it once in your life (unless you get creative and wear your dress again, of course). “The average bride spends between two and five thousand dollars on the wedding dress alone,” says Rent the Runway’s style director, Blaire Walsh. “When only wearing that dress for approximately three to five hours, it just doesn’t seem worth it when you can focus on making your wedding dreams come true by having that firework sendoff or an extravagant Parisian themed dessert table for your guests to indulge in.”

          If you’d rather spend more on your honeymoon budget than a pricey gown, renting is a popular alternative that allows you to save money while still wearing an expensive dress down the aisle. It’s up to you and your partner to prioritize what really means the most for your wedding day, says Walsh. “Why not splurge on that funky brass band you keep thinking about and save costs by renting your wedding wardrobe?”

          Some bridal boutiques offer this option in lieu of buying if you only want the dress for the wedding day. There are also plenty of online wedding rental services with a wide range of styles to choose from. This generally works in the same way as any other online shopping experience—only you send the garment back after you’re done wearing it. When you’re thinking about renting a wedding dress, there are a few important things to consider. Let’s narrow down the decision-making process, shall we?

          Bailey Mariner/Brides

          Pros of Renting a Dress

          You’ll Save Money

          This is probably the biggest pro of all and likely what got you considering renting to begin with. With renting, dresses that were way over budget can suddenly be in the realm of possibility. Because you’re only borrowing the dress for a night or two, you just may be able to snag a dress by your dream high-end designer that you’d never be able to afford otherwise. Renting a dress is a much cheaper option than buying one and often brings wedding dresses that cost four figures down to three instead.

          You might be able to save on accessories, too. Some wedding dress rental companies provide packages where you can tack on a veil, shoes, and other accessories for a reduced price.

          You Don’t Have to Preserve, Store, or Dry Clean It

          Wedding dress preservation comes at a cost. A lot goes into making sure the delicate fabric of a wedding gown doesn’t yellow over time. But with a rental, there’s no need to worry about where you’ll keep your gown after the big day or how you’ll preserve it. Rental companies also typically include dry cleaning with the service. Dry cleaning for a gown can cost up to $200, so consider those savings a major win. Just send it back, and you’re done.

          You’ll Have a Hassle-Free Destination Wedding

          Renting a dress can be very convenient for destination brides, as some destination salons allow you to rent your dress. With this option, there’s no need to worry about packing or wrinkling your dress—and there’s no chance of the worst-case scenario: lost luggage.

          Cons of Renting a Dress

          You Could Have Limited Options

          If you’re looking for a very specific style or are a picky shopper, renting may not be the best choice. Not only can style options be more limited, but you may find that certain dresses aren’t available on the date you need it. Even if you do find a gown you like, it may not be in your size and you’re usually not able to make alterations so it fits you like a glove.

          If you’re ordering online, there’s always the chance that the wedding dress of your dreams arrives and looks completely different than in the picture. Luckily, most rental services give you the option to order dresses just to try them on before committing to renting them for the big day, but that comes with a cost.

          You’re Responsible For Damages and Fees

          When renting a dress, fees can quickly add up. You may have to pay extra for shipping, insurance, and late fees if you’re running behind. You also risk paying for any damages. From wine spills to lipstick stains, torn hems to busted seams, your wedding dress can go through the wringer on your big day. While insurance covers minor issues, brides usually are responsible for the cost of the dress if there’s any significant damage.

          You Won’t Get the Sentimental Aspects

          If you want to keep your dress forever and possibly pass it down to the next generation, a rental probably isn’t for you. For some brides, an heirloom wedding dress holds memories of a lifetime, and renting a dress takes away the sentimental value.

          Renting a dress could also take away from the dress shopping experience with family and friends. If you dream of saying yes to the dress in a room full of your closest loved ones, renting may not be an option for you.

          Tips for Renting a Dress

          Read Customer Reviews

          When renting online, make sure to see what previous customers are saying about the dresses you’re eyeing. “Have an idea of your sizing, but also make sure to read up on our customer reviews,” says Walsh. For anyone familiar with online shopping, you know how every brand may not fit the same, even in the same size.

          Use Filters When Browsing Rental Sites

          “Site browsing can be a bit overwhelming at times so keep an open mind, be flexible in what you’re looking for and utilize [website] filters,” Walsh says. Narrow your search by filtering things like color, length, silhouette, shape, sleeves, body type, and embellishments. Don’t just search the bridal section. You can just as easily find your dream gown by browsing all dresses with the color filter set on “White,” if you’re sticking with a traditional color.

          Be sure to check how long you’re able to keep the dress with the rental service. Everywhere is different and you’ll want to have the dress as far in advance as possible, most companies allow only four to five days. Check for any options allowing you to pay a fee to try on dresses beforehand and reserve it for your date.

          Don’t Worry About Getting it Right On the First Try

          Part of the fun in renting is the lack of commitment. “If a style doesn’t work simply return and pick out another style,” says Walsh. You may have to pay a fee for the swap, but it’s a small price to pay to find your dream gown commitment- and pressure-free.

          How Much Do Rented Dresses Cost

          Depending on where you rent from, you could end up saving thousands of dollars on a dress. You can typically rent wedding dresses for as little as about $50-$600, but they can also cost much less or more depending on the dress and rental company. On the more expensive end, designer gowns rent for a fraction of their purchase price, anywhere from $500 to $2,000 is common. Some websites, like Rent the Runway, are structured as a subscription service, so you pay a monthly fee for access to certain style selections.

          Where to Rent a Dress

          If you’re sold on renting your wedding dress over buying, there are several options to do so. You have websites that are solely dedicated to renting wedding gowns, fashion rentals with select bridal options, boutiques both selling and renting, as well as local salons that may offer rentals.

          Even if your local bridal boutique doesn’t advertise rentals, it doesn’t hurt to ask and you might be surprised at how they’re willing to accommodate your needs.

          • Rent the Runway: 1 Swap Plan for $89/month; 2 Swap Plan for $135/month; Unlimited Swaps Plan for $159/month 
          • Wedding Dress for Rent: up to 70 percent off retail price; $100-$500 security deposit 
          • Poshare: wedding dress rentals from $60-$800; shipping fee 
          • Lending Luxury: wedding dress rentals from $50-$140, shipping included 
          • Rent from Lael: dress rentals from $35-$65; shipping fee; 50 percent retainer deposit 

          The 5 Best Wedding Dress Rental Companies [Rent Your Dress]

          This article may contain affiliate links. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. Privacy Policy.

          Are you dreaming of wearing a fabulous gown on your wedding day? Does your vision of the perfect strut down the aisle include a perfect designer dress? Then you’ve surely noticed how those big designer names can come with some even bigger designer price tags.

          Whether you’re picturing a white floor-length ball gown or a hot pink mini full of embellishments, your dream dress can be super affordable by hopping on the unconventional trend of turning your gown purchase into a rental.

          Why You Should Consider Renting

          Renting a wedding dress isn’t for everyone.

          If the idea of passing your wedding dress down like a family heirloom makes you feel sentimental and teary, you should pass on the idea of renting. A perfect option for the minimalist, renting your wedding dress can give you endless access to designer wedding gowns, evening gowns and dresses that may have been out of your budget, worn once and stuck in your closet for who knows how long.

          According to a survey by The Knot, the average wedding gown costs between $1,600 and $2,000. If that’s a little more than you’re wanting or willing to pay, renting can get you the same dresses for sometimes as much as 80% less than the retail cost to purchase.

          If you’re sold, check out these five wedding dress rental companies that make it easy to save on your dress for the big day without having to sacrifice style.

          Rent the Runway is a fashion rental website that allows users to incorporate high-end designers into their wardrobe at a fraction of the price. And while they aren’t specifically for wedding gowns, they have plenty of white and non-traditional options that work beautifully for a wedding. This company rocks in terms of options, as you can always buy something you fall in love with and keep pieces as long as you like. 

          Membership runs as low as $89 each month with an introductory trial month for only $69. This plan allows up to four rental items per month from the “Basic Closet,” which doesn’t include designers or formal wear. Upgrade to “Full closet access” for $135 a month and get up to 8 items per month. Individual, four-day rentals are available without a membership on most items.

          Rent the Runway is a great option for picking up a handful of pieces to wear throughout your wedding weekend. Score a great outfit for the rehearsal dinner, day after brunch and your bachelorette party, all in your first month’s subscription service. 

          Dry cleaning or laundering is not required before the return, which is always a bonus, and Rent the Runway accommodates sizes 00-22.

          HAH Reversible Take A Bow Dress

          Customer in Hah Dress

          We love this reversible dress for its versatility and its price tag. Wear forwards for a high neck three-quarter sleeved gown perfect for the ceremony, and turn backward for a high collard dress with a plunging cutout that is perfect for the reception. 

          This dress retails for $298 and can be rented for as low as $35 for four days. 

          Much like Rent the Runway, Poshare lets its users rent designer clothes for a fraction of the cost of purchasing. Only in this case, it’s for a limited number of days, making this company great for special events like weddings and parties. Once you find an item you want to rent, select the date of your event to ensure timely delivery and add it to your bag. You’ll have a chance to choose rent or buy in this section if that’s an option. 

          After you’ve worn the item, return it to the lender with a shipping label that is almost always conveniently included in the original package. 

          Even if you’re not sold on the idea of renting, check out Poshare for the excellent sales on dresses for purchase. 

          Dry cleaning is the individual lender’s responsibility, so there is no need to clean the items. Garments are available for sizes 00-24.

          Primavera Couture 

          Our favorite, slightly saucy number is this knockout from Primavera Couture. Bell sleeves, beaded overly, open back and a pooling skirt makes this dress oh-so-dreamy and perfect for a wedding. 

          This dress retails for $429 and can be rented for $249.

          Villageluxe is a website that lets users borrow designer clothes from each other and rent them by the week. Once registered, users can post their own designer closets to be rented.

          Currently, Villageluxe requires an invite to join, but they have a link to their waiting list. The company is built on a foundation of sustainability in the high fashion world and seeks to empower its users through sisterhood and community.

          Dry cleaning is again the responsibility of the lender, and clothes are available in sizes 00-16

          Temperley London

          We are head over heels for this blush pink midi dress from Temperley London. A perfect option for the non-traditional bride, this dress paid a nude silk slip and a sheer gown with blue and black embellishments. 

          This dress retails for $1895 and can be borrowed for $207 per week.

          Just as the name says, this company has endless wedding dresses available for rent and purchase. Rentals can be taken for either three or five days, and it’s recommended you reserve your dress at least 30 days before the wedding date. 

          After you wear your dress, package and return it with the prepaid shipping labels and included packing materials. Dry cleaning is handled by the company, so there is no need to have it cleaned before its return. If the dress comes back with any stains that cannot be removed, you will not get back your security deposit. 

          These sample dresses are sold in US medium or 6, but reversible alterations are allowed on most of the rentals. This includes things like temporary stitching to bring the dress in or to shorten.

          Jiemo Bridal 

          This dress from Jiemo Bridal has our hearts aflutter. Romantic lines from poetry are artistically strewn throughout the off-white floor-length tulle-covered ball gown for a feeling of whimsey and fun. 

          The retail cost of this dress could not be located, but a three-day rental will cost $127

          Related: 15 Of The Best Wedding Gift Ideas [For All Newlywed Couples]

          Don’t let the name fool you; Borrowing Magnolia is technically a second-hand dress retailer but still deserves a look because the prices are sweet. On average, you’ll save about 50% from the retail cost, and the dress is in like-new condition. 

          Smart filters allow users to shop for their dream dress by size, wedding date, price, sleeve length and even body type and fabric. Once you find what you think will be your perfect fit, you message the seller to ask any questions, get more photos, and then seal the deal with payment. 

          Since there is no return, cleaning is up to you. Borrowing Magnolia offers sizes 0-18 with limited styles in 18+.

          As inventory is constantly changing, our team can’t pick one of our favorites and have it available to you. Make sure to check out the sale page for extra savings and stalk their new arrivals sections to get the fresh listings before they are gone.

          Rentals For Everybody!

          Wedding dresses aren’t the only garments in the rental game. Tuxedos are the original rental star, but now you can take care of the whole wedding party from the comfort of your living room. Sites like The Black Tux let users rent designer suits and tuxedos conveniently from the comfort of home. Tuxes are delivered two weeks before the big day, so fit and sizing can be checked and adjusted if needed.

          The bridal party can also reap the benefits of rental by using one of these companies for their bridesmaid dresses. This can work especially well when the bride has given free rein on what dress each person will wear with instructions to just stick to one select color or style. Most of these sites allow you to filter your search by any “bride-given criteria” to narrow down your options. 

          When it comes to weddings, everything is rented. The location, tables, chairs, literally everything is probably rented or included in your location package as a rental. So why do we get so hung up on the sentimental value of a wedding dress? 

          Fact: Renting your perfect dress won’t only save money, it will save you valuable closet space as well. Who actually needs a perfectly preserved dress hanging around the back of their closet? Or, worse, all boxed up in that giant heirloom preservation box, memorializing fashion from a bygone era.

          You might as well take advantage of the financial savings, think about the good you’re doing for the planet by recycling your designer gown, and enjoy your dream wedding.

          Best Places to Rent Wedding Dresses: 

          1. Rent the Runway
          2. Poshare
          3. Villageluxe
          4. Wedding Dress for Rent
          5. Borrowing Magnolia

          Rent the Runway: Data and fashion combine to deliver your dream wardrobe

          Rent the Runway: A revolving closet

          What if you could wear virtually any brand you wanted without having to buy it? With Rent The Runway, that designer dress could be yours for Holidazzle and it won’t take up space in your closet after the music stops. RTR creates value by providing an alternative to investing in expensive clothing. It offers customers the opportunity to try brands they wouldn’t otherwise be able to afford and presents an alternative to fast fashion retailers like H&M and Forever 21. The e-commerce rental service caters to millennials who place a premium on variety and keeping up with changing styles on a budget. According to Rent the Runway’s internal research, American women buy an average of 64 new pieces of clothing a year–half of which they wear once. [1]

          RTR leverages large amounts of data to make recommendations to customers based on their preferences. “With every click, delivery, return and step along the way, we gather an insane amount of data, informing every decision our company makes.” [2]  The company presents a clear value-add to customers who want a designer closet, ease of use, and the ability to try a variety pieces without having to commit to owning them.

          Business Model:

          The RTR business model is similar to Netflix’s DVD rental business: choose your items to borrow online and they’ll ship them to you with minimal return hassle for the user.

          • How it works [3]:
            • Pick a piece of clothing to rent for a period of either 4 or 8 days.
            • Choose your size and a free second size or a backup style for an additional $32.50.
            • Your outfit is delivered on the day you specify with a pre-printed return label and garment bag. Simply drop it off at any UPS store or drop box to return. No dry cleaning necessary–it’s on them.

          The Largest Dry Cleaner in the US:

          • RTR rents over 65,000 items and processes all orders through one 160,000 sq foot warehouse.
          • The company itself is now the largest dry cleaner in the country, measured by pounds per hour. [4]
          • It is in RTR’s best interest to process items as quickly as possible to save on shipping costs and maximize rental time.

          Operating Model:

          One key difference between Netflix and RTR is the cost and turnaround time from one rental to another. Although their business model creates value for customers, it will be difficult to scale given their current operating model. Rent the Runway buys dresses and other designer clothing items at wholesale in order to rent them to customers. The more rentals a dress can withstand, the more return RTR will realize on their investment.  According to RTR, the average garment can be rented about 30 times before it is sold at a discount, however, once a dress is irreparably stained it is essentially worthless to the company [4]. The company offers insurance on their dresses and does not charge customers for these damages.

          Rent the Runway invests significant resources in the care and repair of their pieces. Although Netflix DVDs may come back with scratches or broken, the cost of replacing them is far lower than a designer dress and there is less care required to maintain them. RTR says that 50% of their garments are returned with stains and in need of hand spot treatment [4]. This creates a bottleneck because there is a methodical 20-step process that spotters typically employ to remove a stain. Although highly skilled spotters are typically able to circumvent this process to treat around around 30 dresses per hour, the skill set is difficult to find and recruit. According to the National Cleaner’s Association, experienced spotters who understand the nuances of how to treat blemishes are rare, and becoming more rare due to the business models of most dry cleaners (who are paid per piece). [4] According to Fast Company, RTR CEO Jennifer Hyman explains, “The hardest position to recruit has not been engineers, it has been spotters.” [5]

          Conclusion:

          Although RTR may be a great way to get into that Nicole Miller dress for a night, as their operations expand they’ll need to find a more scalable way to process their clothing. Although the company’s revenues have been growing steadily year over year and it has raised $54.4 million dollars in funding [7], it has yet to be profitable. According to Forbes, the company lost $14.5 million in 2013 and came in 25% lower than internal projections [6]. Additionally, their newest product offering, an unlimited subscription has failed to scale. “Very honestly,” Hyman says, “that model did not work. It took us four to five months to fully realize it. When we launched, we got such great PR that it looked like an immediate boost, but it didn’t sustain itself. It was a false positive. So we started iterating furiously.” [8] Given these challenges, it seems that RTR has not found its ideal steady state. It needs to continue to iterate in order to scale the business.

          [1] http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevenbertoni/2014/08/20/how-mixing-data-and-fashion-can-make-rent-the-runway-techs-next-billion-dollar-star/

          [2] https://www.renttherunway.com/pages/about

          [3] https://www.renttherunway.com/

          [4] http://www.fastcompany.com/3036876/most-creative-people/inside-rent-the-runways-secret-dry-cleaning-empire#1

          [5] http://www.fastcodesign.com/3035238/innovation-by-design-2014/borrowing-is-the-new-owning

          [6] http://fortune.com/2014/10/29/rent-the-runway-raising-50-million/

          [7] http://www.fastcompany.com/3036876/most-creative-people/inside-rent-the-runways-secret-dry-cleaning-empire#7

          [8] http://fortune.com/2015/11/17/rent-the-runway-exodus/

          Rent clothes instead of buying new ones

          The future of sustainable fashion lies in renting clothes instead of buying them – a tried-and-true method for the stars. Instead of buying designer gowns from Dior or Oscar de la Renta, jewelry from Tiffany and delicate Valentino stilettos, the A-listers simply return them after their appearance on the red carpet. So will ordinary women soon be consuming fashion like the stars? Whether it’s renting clothes on a monthly basis or a special occasion that calls for renting fashion: Market growth, sustainability, and a few other advantages clearly speak in favor of it.

          Rent clothes – rapid market growth

          According to studies, the global online clothing rental market will grow by USD 801.03 million between 2019 and 2023. The fast pace of fashion trends has long been known, as has the mass production of these trendy pieces by fast fashion companies. However, more and more consumers are making a conscious decision not to consume mainstream clothing, prompting the fashion industry to approach alternative clothing rental business models.

          The increasing demand for designer clothing among women and the growing awareness of the adverse effects of disposing of unwanted clothing in landfills will drive the market segment to grow by 11% annually in the future. Unfortunately, the corona pandemic has brought some German providers into bankruptcy, including the Stay A While and Kilenda platforms.

          Related topics: High-end and sustainable: vintage clothes reflect the modern zeitgeist

          Modern wardrobe: Renting clothes comes with many advantages

          • Minimize carbon footprint: For many consumers, shopping for inexpensive mass-produced goods is part of their leisure time and fun. However, the environment bears the cost. This awareness is increasingly occurring and prompting a change: To contribute to environmental protection, more and more consumers are renting clothes instead of buying them.
          • No bad purchases: Another advantage of renting clothes is that bad purchases can be avoided. Due to the huge number of new trends, it always happens that things are bought that actually do not really fit or please. However, if these pieces are only borrowed, you can easily pass them on to the next wearer and also dare bolder styles.
          • Save money: Evening dresses and business attire in particular can quickly run into money – with the disadvantage that they are rarely worn. Renting these clothes for special occasions is therefore usually much cheaper – without having to sacrifice quality or designer labels as a consumer. This way, you can save money and get high quality for your everyday street style.
          • Overview in the closet: Borrowed clothing also has the advantage that you can return it and thus maintain an overview in the closet. In addition, the selection always remains up to date. Everyone knows the parts that still carry the price tag today because you either forgot about them or don’t like them at all. Too much choice usually just makes dressing more difficult in the end, rather than simplifying it. Things are more minimalist with borrowed pieces. By the way, even a move becomes much more efficient this way!

          A shared modern wardrobe for fashion victims

          Last but not least, entire communities can be found on the rental pages. They rate the garments and exchange valuable styling tips with each other. So when you rent, you benefit not only from the clothes themselves, but also from the knowledge of many like-minded, style-conscious and environmentally aware consumers.

          BRAND GUIDE

          Platforms for renting clothes

          The pioneering work of portals for renting clothing was done in the USA by “Rent the Runway” and “HURR”. These have even brought their own capsule collections onto the market in cooperation with renowned designers. But also the German market offers more and more platforms with different rental models.

          1. Rent the Runway

          Three types of memberships can be purchased on Rent the Runway. With these, either 4 (1 Swap Membership), 8 (2 Swap Membership) or an unlimited number of garments (Unlimited Swaps) can be rented each month. There are 15,000 styles from more than 650 designers such as GANNI, Gucci, Oscar de la Renta or Proenza Schouler available for different occasions. Depending on the occasion – from vacation outfits to work looks to wedding gowns – garments can be filtered to make renting easier. Especially worth mentioning: sustainable designer labels like Reformation or AMUR are also available.

          Source & Copyright Rent the Runway
          2. Style Lend

          This platform for renting clothing and accessories is uncompromisingly high-end. Whether Chanel or Christian Dior – Style Lend offers bags and garments of all well-known brands of the high-end sector. And it does so from private sellers. The website works by allowing users not only to rent items, but also to rent them out. All that is required is a monthly membership. The rental period is 7 days, and can be extended as often as desired. In keeping with modern sharing concepts, fashion victims can exchange their most beautiful items with one another.

          3. Chic by choice

          Chic by Choice is the go-to platform for festive occasions and designer clothing. Here, the dresses can be rented for four to eight days and the price also includes insurance against minor stains and professional cleaning afterwards. To ensure that the dresses really fit, they are always delivered in two sizes.

          A trend for special occasions that is more and more integrated into everyday life

          Inspired by the stars, the range of platforms and rental models continues to grow online. The reason: awareness of the production and disposal conditions of fast fashion – a far too high price for the environment.

          90,000 What should a designer do if the mass market copies his models

          Mass brands like Zara are often involved in scandals related to copying the collections of famous fashion houses. The production cycle, which lasts only two weeks, allows the Spanish retailer to deliver trending models to stores before designer brands have time to release any number of copies other than a single piece, which they show on the catwalk during fashion weeks.

          The situation with the adaptation of catwalk trends seemed to have already become familiar, but the mass market went further and, realizing the audience’s interest in local brands, began to release things based on their collections. It is difficult to say whether the ideas of young designers were initially primary, but recently the editorial office received a letter from the founder of the Novaya brand, who discovered that a well-known mass-market brand had released a down jacket model similar to an item from her collection, and the Medooza brand has another well-known Russian brand and copied the model of the sweater with the print.We asked lawyer Yana Chirko to comment on these situations and tell how a designer can protect copyright.

          Down jacket from Novaya (left), down jacket from befree (right)

          Medooza sweater (left), Tvoe sweater (right)

          Zara is constantly accused of plagiarism – by large brands, small brands, and illustrators. Why does nothing happen to the company for this and what other similar precedents exist in world practice?

          Fast fashion companies don’t always get away with copying someone else’s design.If the fact of violation is obvious, foreign corporations often decide to settle the dispute with the designer without bringing it to court. So, a few weeks ago, Zara satisfied the claim of the German artist Boris Schmitz, who accused the company of replicating his prints on bags. The product was taken off the market, and the artist was paid several thousand euros in compensation.

          On the other hand, if it is not about copying, but about imitating or creating a similar design, the prospect of settling such a claim with a large brand is not always obvious.For example, this spring, a student at Central Saint Martins accused the Gucci house of repeating work he had previously posted on his Instagram account in an alien-style ad campaign. Gucci did not give official comments, but the brand’s chief designer, Alessandro Michele, said plagiarism was ruled out, as he used science fiction films and TV series of the 50-60s as sources of inspiration.

          In general, first you need to decide what is meant by the term “plagiarism”.From a legal point of view, plagiarism is attribution. Authorship arises in relation to a work that can be protected by copyright. Therefore, copying the original author’s design is illegal, while borrowing ideas, imitating a design (similar colors, location of prints, silhouette) may not always mean copyright infringement. As in the case of Gucci, situations are quite likely when two designers are inspired by the same event, art direction, trend and, as a result, create similar things at the level of ideas or general aesthetics.

          If we are not talking about copying, but the designer has good reason to assert that it was his work that became the source of inspiration for a large brand, this can be publicly declared. Even if the brand is not satisfied with the claim, the designer will definitely attract the attention of the target audience to his brand. So, for example, after the disclosure of the conflict with Gucci, the whole world learned about the young design student Pierre-Louis Auvray.

          How can a designer prove and protect his authorship?

          Despite the fact that the law protects works of decorative and applied art, regardless of artistic value, it is not easy to protect the appearance of a product with copyright, due to the fact that it does not extend to the practical (functional) component of the product, as well as design devoid of originality.

          For example, dozens of people every day photograph the tower of the Singer House in St. Petersburg from the same angle. On the one hand, all these pictures are formally works, and on the other hand, because of the huge number of identical photographs, it is difficult to talk about the creative contribution and the original component of each of them.

          It turns out that when it comes to copying a pencil skirt or A-line dress, it is almost impossible to justify the individual nature of such a design.At the same time, there were precedents in world practice when the original design was protected by copyright. The most famous dispute happened in 1994: the house of Yves Saint Laurent filed a lawsuit, accusing Ralph Lauren of copying a classic frock coat dress. Yves Saint Laurent was able to prove in court that the dress, designed by the house in 1966, is subject to copyright, that there is an original creative contribution to this product. As a result, the house of Ralph Lauren was banned from producing this dress and ordered to pay compensation to Yves Saint Laurent for copyright infringement.

          Is it possible to talk about copyright infringement in the case of the Novaya brand and the befree network and how to prove such infringement?

          From my point of view, the products are similar, but their design is not too original. The designer says that several elements were copied at once: a sewn-in hood, a drawstring at the belt, the length of a down jacket. However, all these elements individually and in aggregate are not unique and it cannot be said that no one has created anything like this before.

          In response to the designer’s claim of copyright infringement, befree representatives will be able, for example, to provide several dozen photos of similar down jackets and declare that the controversial design is not original and corresponds to the functional characteristics of the product intended for winter: the length is due to the need to protect the legs from the cold, the drawstring allows change the silhouette and protect from blowing, etc. This will be a complex litigation in which the designer will have to prove that this design is original, is a creative result of his work and copied (and not created in parallel) befree.

          If the designer is convinced that this product is a bestseller of the brand, which is produced from year to year, and believes that commercial success is due precisely to the structural elements, it makes sense to protect the design of the product with a patent for an industrial design. It is clear that it is expensive and time-consuming to obtain patents for all items in the collection. However, if the designer understands that this or that thing is the key to the brand, the most recognizable or sold, its appearance can be tried to register as an industrial design.

          How to do this?

          Submit an application to the patent authority – “Rospatent”, attaching a list of images that allow you to get a detailed idea of ​​the appearance of the product. You also need to compose a description of the industrial design, including its essential features that have novelty and originality (features that determine the aesthetic or ergonomic features of the appearance of the product, its shape and configuration, ornament and color combinations).It is necessary to provide a description of the industrial design, and not the product itself in which it is used.

          Before filing an application for registration of an industrial design, I recommend contacting a patent attorney, who will do a preliminary search and give a number of comments regarding the patentability of the claimed design: it is possible that the developed design is neither new nor original. In turn, Rospatent, while examining the application, will check the design from the point of view of world novelty and originality, that is, it will clarify whether a similar design has been published anywhere in the world, not only in Russia, before the application is filed.

          It should also be remembered that even if a brand managed to obtain a patent for an objectively non-new design, there is always a risk that competitors who will interfere with such a patent in their activities will be able to try to revoke it based on the criteria of lack of design originality or its functional conditionality.

          However, the criticality of the patent revocation risk depends largely on the brand strategy. For example, the Kira Plastinina chain has received massive design patents for products in collections to protect against Chinese counterfeiting.The company did not care that someone would subsequently be able to revoke the patent; they were solving another problem – to promptly prevent the appearance of similar Chinese-made products on the market.

          What if the thing is not so original that a designer could get a patent for an industrial design?

          In the case of imitation of the appearance of the product, the designer can also declare unfair competition. In this case, it will be enough for him to point out the fact that the competitive brand has copied or imitated the appearance of the product (color scheme, corporate identity, other elements).The only problem is to prove that a specific product design is associated by consumers with a specific designer. Therefore, it is worth taking a serious approach to working out your position: to substantiate that the designer released the model earlier than the competitor, that there is a customer base who associate this design with his brand and were misled by the appearance of a copy of the product under a different brand.

          That is, it is easier to justify the fact of unfair competition?

          Claims and claims arising from copyright protection are considered in court.The designer will need to actively defend the position, bear certain legal costs and, if the court does not agree with the designer’s position, reimburse the opponent in the dispute for the state duty and legal costs.

          If we are talking about protecting rights from unfair competition, the position of the designer is communicated to the Federal Antimonopoly Service (FAS) in a statement, after which the FAS can initiate proceedings in the case and independently investigate its circumstances. For example, they can conduct a poll on their website: post two photos and ask to vote – do these products seem identical to you? If 80% of site visitors decide that the products are similar, this will be an undeniable argument in favor of the designer.

          The FAS pays great attention to the economic consequences of the violation, therefore, the statement should indicate that the designer and the imitator brand operate in the same market, are direct competitors, the activities of the imitator brand cause economic damage to the designer: for example, a designer sells a thing for 18 thousand , and a mass brand – for 5. If the circumstances of the violation are correctly described and substantiated by attaching all the evidence, explanations, customer reviews, the FAS in any case will have to figure it out and make some kind of decision.

          Will the designer receive any compensation if this decision is made in his favor?

          Based on the results of such an audit, the FAS may issue an order to eliminate the violation (for example, it will require that all products be removed from the stores and henceforth not produced), and also impose an administrative fine. The designer will not receive any compensation from the amount of the fine, however, for the mass-market brand, the FAS’s decision in such a case will entail reputational consequences.In particular, if a designer submits an application to the FAS, many specialized resources will highlight this occasion, since disputes in the field of fashion in Russia do not happen often.

          SELECTION OF DRESSES FROM NON-STANDARD MATERIALS

          I really love the M-TV program – Project PODIUM, these are very inspiring programs, after which your hands just itch to create something. I really like rework assignments and assignments from non-standard materials to create a cocktail-evening masterpiece. From napkins – this is already trivial, if it’s a matter of corn cobs or seeds to create a wearable thing!

          I offer a collection of unusual dresses to your attention We are surprised, have fun 🙂

          These dresses are made of money (if you count them – 50 million pounds would be worth)

          .

          CHOCOLATE dress

          The dress is worn over the naked body of a model. How this is done is incomprehensible to the mind !!! Moreover, you can only walk or stand in a dress. After all, all these folds can disappear before our eyes or just break.

          Dresses from PORCELAIN

          When Chinese emperors drank tea from these cups, now, thanks to the designer Li Xiaofeng, they have turned into dresses.For the first time, such an unusual outfit was presented at the Asian Contemporary Art Fair in New York, where it was immediately bought for $ 85,000.

          In the Middle Ages in Europe, Chinese porcelain was worth its weight in gold, and in the most literal sense: it was sold by weight. High society ladies wore porcelain shards like beads on a gold chain, and jewelers inserted Chinese porcelain into beautiful frames. The porcelain mass was made from “porcelain stone” powder, mined in Jiangxi province, and kaolin.The resulting mixture was stored for several decades until it acquired plasticity, and only after that the production of dishes began.

          Li Xiaofeng “sews” his outfits not from any kind of porcelain, the designer prefers shards of dishes from the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. Pieces of ceramics are fastened to each other on a special leather lining, otherwise it would be simply impossible to wear such a dress. Ceramic outfits can be unbuttoned at the back or side and can be dressed like any other garment.

          WOODEN dress

          Stylish, extravagant and very eco-friendly: wooden dress.
          The board is made entirely of wood and a few bolts for fastening))). Its creator is Grace Johnston. You can curtsey in the dress, and the height of the skirt is adjusted with cables, which allows you to raise it higher and cool down on a hot day.

          Dress from NEWSPAPERS.

          Jolis Paons is sure to love the extraordinarily elegant dress from the telephone directories. His words: “I pleated, stapled, stitched and glued everything by hand and you can actually wear it.”

          Only one misfortune – at the very first wash, the dress risks turning into papier-mâché.

          TOILET paper wedding dress

          CHECK DRESS

          If you do not want to part with your pets, take them with you.Concept artist Kasey McMahon’s latest creation is the Birdcage Dress, a fully functional wearable copper birdcage. Did you notice the birds inside?

          WIRE dress

          The famous designer Sophie DeFrancesca makes dresses from wire. No one wants to try it on. But they look very elegant.

          FLOWER and LEAF dress

          A real designer find – dresses made of flowers and leaves.Such an outfit brings with it a bright and cheerful summer mood. You cannot wear a dress made of flowers every day, but your appearance in it will be remembered for a long time. For the first time, the famous Josephine tried on a dress made of rose petals. Nowadays women of fashion are also not averse to appearing on a holiday in only one color.

          Florist Elena Belenicheva created a collection of floral dresses (the fruit of a creative union with photographer Oleg Tityaev). It turned out very beautifully!

          Dress made of petals and carnation flowers.

          Poplar-leaf trousers

          Dress made of petals and carnation flowers

          Dress made of rose petals and flowers

          Aspidistra leaf dress

          Rose petal dress

          Orchid flower dress

          Sunflower skirt. Top from seeds.

          Chrysanthemum fur coat.

          Dresses from PAPER.

          Authors Alexandra Zakharova and Ilya Plotnikov.

          Zipper Dress

          The dress can be “adjusted” to almost any body size with the help of zippers. Each zipper hides a color underneath. Therefore, by unbuttoning and buttoning certain zippers, you yourself create a new dress for yourself every day.

          ECOLOGICAL dresses by Gary Harvey.

          Gary Harvey is a former creative director at Levi Strauss. He began creating his quirky dresses while working on one of his freelance fashion campaigns. Wanting to get a shotgun effect, the designer took 42 pairs of Levi’s jeans and turned them into a dress. Since then, his passion for eco-fashion began.

          Dress of 42 pairs of Levi’s jeans.

          Garbage dress.

          Dress from 21 shopping bags.

          Dress from GOLD

          Clothes were created by design students from the Bunka Fashion College.The money to decorate their clothes was donated by the Austrian Mint located in Japan. The only drawback is the large weight of the clothes, so it was more difficult for the models than usual.

          The dress is adorned with 325 Vienna Harmony coins worth 27 million yen (235,000 USD).

          Dress from CUPYUR.

          Tips and ways to look like a million there are probably more than one million. But, as they say, all ingenious is simple.For your outfit to always look like a million, it just needs to be that very million. For example, like this evening or wedding dress made entirely of banknotes.

          LED dress.

          Galaxy Dress Galaxy Dress On the eve of the New Year holidays, every girl wants to outshine everyone with her outfit, and now it will not be difficult. Creative duo Francesca Rosella and Ryan Genz from London have created an unusual Galaxy Dress.The peculiarity of this dress is 24 thousand miniature multi-colored LEDs, which turn it into an analogue of the starry sky.

          The surface of the dress, free of LEDs, is covered with 4,000 Swarovski crystals.

          Wedding dress made of peacock FEATHERS.

          The dress, which costs approximately $ 1.5 million, is made entirely of peacock feathers.In addition to extravagant peacock feathers, it is adorned with 60 green jades. It took 2009 feathers to create the wedding dress and the work of 8 craftsmen within 2 months.

          STEEL dress.

          At the last Fashion Rio exhibition, an unusual collection of dresses was presented – steel was used as a material for their manufacture. Information on how exactly the dresses were made and how much they weighed could not be found.

          Dress-COLORING

          Dress-EMOTION

          Dress sensitive to emotions.

          If you are tense or angry, your dress will turn red. And if you calm down, it will turn green. This masterpiece was developed by Philips. The dress consists of two layers: the inner layer detects your emotions by changes in body temperature and perspiration and sends a signal to the outer layer to change its color.

          Dress from FISHECK-for gambling women.

          Dress from packs from Skittles

          Dress “Tax Forms”

          This dress is made entirely of basic paper tax forms, tape and glue.It took about a month to create this dress, of which several weeks went into sketching the suit.

          Dress from circuit board

          Talented Em Stone made this dress by hand from real computer parts. Probably for ladies programmers.

          Condom dresses.

          .

          Who do you think could have thought of this? That’s right, the Chinese.The inhabitants of the Celestial Empire sewed a dark darkness of dresses (and even wedding ones) from this item No. 2. As you can imagine, the idea of ​​putting everyone “in a condom” did not arise by chance: birth control in China is a paramount problem.

          Dress made of CAKE.

          Dresses from BALLOONS.

          Incredibly lifts your spirits, but you won’t be able to admire it for long – until the balloon deflates or bursts.

          Dresses by the artist Robin Barkus.

          Robin Barkus is a multidisciplinary artist from the United States. She was born and raised in Chicago, and now lives and works in Las Vegas. Most of her works are interactive in nature, they invite the viewer to feel the art, experience it, and not just see it.

          A dress made of sponge, or rather a set of sponges.

          Meat dress.

          Lady Gaga’s meat dress made a lot of noise. Not a bad do-it-yourself option. Maybe running to the nearest grocery store for a weekend outfit?

          Lady Gaga appeared in a meat dress on the cover of Vogue Hommes Japan. Filmed by Terry Richardson, the stylist was, of course, Nicolas Formichetti. The real skillet for meat, however, was the appearance of Lady Gaga in a similar outfit at the MTV Video Music Awards in Los Angeles.

          Dress-CAKE.

          Designer Lucca Sigurdardottir decided to combine the two concepts of “wedding dress” and “wedding cake”. That’s what came out of it.

          Illusion dress.

          The designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are true masters of illusion. Look at the dress. One gets the impression that Anya Rubik was cut into halves – oh! How did they do it? If you look closely at the picture, you will notice one of the parts of the dress – completely black, wrapped tightly, like a bandage bandage – between two portions of air tulle.

          Paper fashion by Zoe Bradley.

          Each work of the artist Zoe Bradley is unique. She creates stunning hats, dresses, suits and accessories … from paper. That’s right, it is from paper. And sometimes from boxes or plastic spoons …

          TENT DRESS

          In the world of fashion, women borrowed so much from men that the ladies’ version of the raincoat-tent would not surprise anyone.However, the designers took it a step further with a tent dress. This outfit will undoubtedly become popular with lovers of outdoor activities and outings. Remarkably, the lineup includes summer and winter options.

          Dress from rubber GLOVES

          Even such banal things as rubber gloves have a touch of elegance and romance – this is what fashion designer Sebastian Errazuriz thinks. Please note that the dress is accompanied by an exquisite accessory – a handbag made of the same non-standard material.

          Sources http://www.etoya.ru/blog/fashion_blog/2011/5/16/16331/
          http://mirjen.ru/pokupki/moda/unikalnye-platja.html

          And finally, a few more

          .

          Vintage Wedding Dress: Inspiration Compilation

          British fashion experts are confident that vintage wedding dresses will become one of the main trends in 2021.Or, we add on our own, an important source of inspiration. Travel back in time with our collection of wedding photographs of 20th century celebrities. The focus is on the image of the bride.

          Why do experts predict an increased interest in vintage wedding dresses? All thanks to Princess Beatrice, whose wedding took place on July 17, 2020. As a wedding dress, the representative of the royal family chose neither a designer dress, nor a dress made to order by an eminent fashion house, but borrowed it from her grandmother, Elizabeth II.The dress by Norman Hartnell was specially tailored for Beatrice by dresser Angela Kelly and court couturier Stuart Parvin. (You can read more about Beatrice’s outfit here). In the days following the wedding of Princess Beatrice and Edoardo Mapelli-Mozzi, when the details of the last intimate celebration became known to the public, the number of requests for “vintage wedding dresses” rose sharply on the Internet. This is how a new trend was born.

          The interest in vintage wedding dresses is understandable and fully corresponds to the popular topic of responsible consumption today.Demand is also correlated with true and family values, whose importance has multiplied during the period of self-isolation and lockdowns. But it is one thing to find the legendary dress of the grandmother queen in the dressing room, and it is another thing to try to get a wedding dress online or in specialty stores. In this case, there are many pitfalls. It is not known how the material and fittings were stored, in what condition. And the cut, let’s be honest, is unlikely to satisfy the modern bride. We’ll have to alter, adjust, radically change the style.Indeed, when it comes to vintage, it is understood that the thing must be at least from the last century.

          Therefore, Wedding makes a slightly different prediction. The trend for vintage dresses will undergo some changes: future brides will be inspired by the images of the past, they will be ready to borrow some details, nevertheless, they will prefer to buy a wedding dress, if it looks like a vintage one, then from the latest collections.

          In the meantime, we offer you to look at some of the legendary images that have gone down in the history of wedding fashion.These outfits can be safely called vintage. Get inspired!

          1950

          Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor with husband Conrad “Nicky” Hilton, heir to the Hilton empire. The author of the classic dress is Helen Rose. This is the first (out of eight!) Marriage of the actress.

          1953

          Wedding of Jacqueline Bouvier and future US President John F. Kennedy. Today Jacqueline’s wedding dress is kept at the Kennedy Library in Boston.

          1954

          Audrey Hepburn’s first wedding.Spouse – actor Mel Ferrer. The dress for Audrey was created by the then young couturier Hubert de Givenchy.

          1956

          Public wedding ceremony of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier III, ruler of Monaco. The bride is wearing an outfit of silk, taffeta, tulle and Valenciennes lace. The author of the dress is the American designer Helen Rose, the one who dressed up Elizabeth Taylor in 1950.

          1967

          Wedding of American actress Raquel Welch and producer Patrick Curtis.The celebration took place in Paris on Valentine’s Day. A short knitted dress is very bold and very in the spirit of the times.

          1967

          Wedding of Priscilla and Elvis Presley. The newlyweds exchanged vows at the Aladdin Hotel in Las Vegas. The bride wore a long silk dress embroidered with pearls and beads.

          1968

          The wedding day of actress Sharon Tate and Polish filmmaker Roman Polanski. Bride in ivory moire mini dress.

          1969

          Audrey Hepburn’s second wedding. Spouse – psychoanalyst Andrea Dotti. The pink dress in the shape of a trapeze for his muse was created, of course, by maestro Hubert de Givenchy.

          1971

          Mick Jagger and his wife Bianca in a revolutionary wedding dress: maxi skirt and white one-button tuxedo with a very bold neckline. The author of the look is the French designer Yves Saint Laurent.

          1973

          Spanish socialite Carmen Ordonez married the famous torreodor Francisco Rivera Pacirri in a stunning headdress.

          1975

          The wedding of the granddaughter of the writer Ernest Hemingway, 1970s supermodel Margot Hemingway and her first husband Errol Wetson took place in Paris. For the celebration, Margot chose a simple white cotton dress with ruffles and cotton lace inserts.

          1983

          Wedding of American fashion model Patti Hansen and Keith Richards, British guitarist and songwriter of The Rolling Stones. They met in the acclaimed Studio 54 club.Of course, the frontman of the rock band Mick Jagger was invited to the wedding. The couple are still together.

          1992

          Legendary performer Whitney Houston married Bobby Brown at her New Jersey estate in front of 800 guests dressed in purple. The bride wore a bespoke and beaded gown from Marc Bouwer.

          Text: Tatiana Ezhova.

          Photo: Wedding archive, Vintageweddingarchive, Celebrity_wedding_photos.

          90,000 Paul Poiret’s style and its representation in world fashion at the end of XX

          WORD TO THE APPLICANT OF AN ACADEMIC DEGREE

          UDC 687 (44)

          P.A. Shilina

          postgraduate student (24.00.01), St. Petersburg State Institute of Culture E-mail: [email protected]

          THE STYLE OF THE POIRET FIELD AND ITS REPRESENTATION IN THE WORLD FASHION OF THE LATE XX – BEGINNING OF XXI CENTURIES

          French fashion designer Paul Poiret had a great influence on the formation of modern costume forms. The features of the creative evolution of the couturier and the specific techniques with the help of which he achieved artistic expressiveness in his works are considered.Fashion designer, following at the beginning of the XX century. his own concept and creating not within the framework, but in parallel with the existing fashion trends, he turned to the design of clothes by draping and cutting from a single rectangular cut of fabric. At the same time, Poiret actively used references to ancient and regional types of costume, which was reflected in the minimalism of the cut, which was revolutionary for that time. The influence of the creativity of the French couturier on modern fashion is investigated, the reminiscences of his methods in the collections of contemporary designers of the late XX – early XXI century are studied.: in particular, fashion designers in France, America, Italy, Belgium and Holland turn in their work to the cut, colors, silhouette and motives of dressing inherent in Paul Poiret.

          Keywords: Paul Poiret, women’s costume, modernism, fashion, reminiscence, cut, orientalism

          For citation: Shilina, P.A.Paul Poiret’s style and its representation in the world fashion of the late XX – early XXI century / P.A. Shilina // Bulletin of Culture and Arts. – 2019. – No. 3 (59). – S. 82-87.

          Paul Poiret contributed to the formation of traditions in women’s costume, which formed the basis of modern costume forms. Features of the cut of clothes, the rethinking of orientalistic motives in a suit, the peculiarities of the fashion designer’s treatment of color – these techniques are borrowed by modern designers when creating fashion collections.

          In the first decade of the XXI century.the interest in the works of the French couturier, which has not lost its sharpness, has become evident today: after a long oblivion, his creations were re-opened to the public at the exhibition of the Metropolitan Costume Institute “Poiret – King of Fashion” in 2007. The fashion designer, following at the beginning of the 20th century. own creative concept, contributed a lot to the formation of modern costume forms. In the wake of interest in the work of the fashion designer in 2016, a revival took place in France.

          trademark of Paul Poiret.Numerous reminiscences of Paul Poiret’s style in the world fashion of the late XX – early XXI century. confirm: at the beginning of the last century, the fashion designer was able to anticipate the logic of the development of the women’s suit and, thanks to the expressive features of his style, was confidently inscribed in the history of fashion.

          Critics and researchers who have studied the main aspects of Poiret’s work have not covered the issues of the connection between his works and modern fashion, the borrowing of modern designers from the costume designer’s uniforms.We explore these aspects, filling the existing gaps and consistently forming an idea of ​​Poiret’s work and the ways and types of appeal to his style by studying the collections of European and American designers and articles by fashion critics and fashion historians of the West.

          82

          Paul Poiret did not create “within the framework”, but in parallel with the existing artistic trends [7]. When creating models, the couturier used rectangular pieces of fabric for straight cut and drapery.At the same time, the design of the suit relied on the shoulder line instead of the “three-dimensional” design that had been used for many centuries in the classic women’s wardrobe [12]. Thanks to such changes, Poiret managed to achieve great creative freedom: while mastering it, he borrowed the motifs of ancient and some regional types of costume, rethinking the forms of the Greek chiton, North African and Middle Eastern caftans, as well as the Japanese kimono.

          The innovations of the fashion designer contributed to changes in the perception of women’s costume at the beginning of the twentieth century., shifting the emphasis from the volume to the plane [13, p. 17].

          The couturier’s creativity is marked by an exceptionally free and delicate treatment of color. Its formation was facilitated by Poiret’s collaboration with many artists. His collaboration with Raoul Dufy was significant: the artist’s bold graphic approach reflected Poiret’s personal preference for intense colors. This fact is illustrated by a quote from Poiret’s autobiography: “… Painful mauve tones have been withdrawn from use… Using especially intense tones, I relied on the experience of colorists ”[3, p. 180]. Accents of warm colors – scarlet, mustard, fuchsia, purple – are frequent in Poiret’s models. Coats and jackets have a colored lining – turquoise or fuchsia. The terracotta color of the robes evokes the idea of ​​antique ceramics, and the bright green is reminiscent of Indian costume. Poiret often uses fabric colors in the form of alternating contrasting stripes in his models. The designer finds expressive strength in fabrics with prints of large elements, openwork and beaded embroidery.

          Poiret managed not only to create a memorable style, but also to restore the attractiveness of orientalistic motives in

          suit thanks to the colors, original details and easily recognizable sources of inspiration, as well as simple but effective silhouettes [6]. Simultaneously with Poiret’s adherence to simple forms, his love of theatrical performances and his passion for “Russian Seasons” were sometimes reflected in creative pursuits by theatricality, grotesqueness and the development of bold styles, the prototypes of which he could see on stage.

          The above-mentioned features of Poiret’s work are still actual objects of borrowing in the collections of modern designers. The ways of referring to his heritage differ in how close the borrowing is to the original source – based on this, they can be categorized as reminiscence, stylization, replica, interpretation and quotation.

          According to VG Vlasov’s Dictionary of Styles, reminiscence is a vague memory based on association [2, p.121]. In reminiscence, formal elements, motives, themes and plots that were previously known are used in new combinations, forming other artistic forms: thus, they have the quality of novelty, while being secondary, retrospective. Reminiscence is based on borrowing, that is, various ways of using previously created material [1]. In this regard, several special cases of creative activity can be noted, which differ in the specificity of references to what has already been created. So, for example, quoting (lat.citatum – ‘call, call’) means ‘literal’ accuracy of borrowing, replication (Latin replicatio – ‘renew, repeat’) – borrowing with possible changes, while stylization involves imitation of decorative effects. Interpretation – the results of creativity obtained by creative processing of the original source – can also be attributed to one of the types of reminiscence. The author of a work, in this case a fashion designer, can turn to retrospective motives, both consciously and involuntarily, when he rethinks current artistic trends.

          83

          Having clarified the term and examined the types of reminiscences, let us move on to studying individual examples in the work of designers of the late XX – early XXI century. The choice of specific fashion designers and ensembles is based on the study of electronic archives of museums dedicated to the history of costume, as well as on the works of Western fashion critics. The selectivity of examples is explained by the vastness of the topic being studied.

          Exploring the reminiscences of Paul Poiret’s style in contemporary fashion, we first turn to the collections of French fashion houses.In these examples, we can note a greater similarity with the original source than that of designers from other countries: one of the reasons for this is the availability of the heritage of the French couturier for them, which is contained in such museums of costume history as the Galliera Museum [10] and the Museum of Applied Arts in Paris.

          In many of the examples we are considering, designers borrow Poiret’s way of dealing with oriental motives. Ensemble from the autumn-winter collection of 2009French-based fashion house Balenciaga creates a confident association with the work of the designer: a jacket made of black and beige silk with a mustard belt gently falls over black trousers of Poiret’s favorite harem pants. In this example, we can note the couturier’s inherent interest in Orientalist cuts and subtle color accents: the designer was greatly impressed by the “Russian Seasons”, which inspired him to create the “lampshade” skirt, tunics and trousers. Let’s also take an example of a suit from the 2014 cruise collection.fashion house Givenchy: the latter reminds us of the 1912 Sorbet dress. The similarity is found here both in the color scheme and in the style of the ensemble: a black jacket with a high waistline, widening downwards, complemented by trousers in tone with embroidered flowers in pastel colors, creating a spectacular contrast on a dark background. Floral motifs were also present in the Poiret ensemble.

          In a number of collections of the Christian Dior fashion house, you can trace multiple replicas, borrowings and interpretations in

          used silhouettes, cut, colors, dressing method.John Galliano, the designer of the fashion house, turned to Poiret’s legacy quite often, starting to study his archives in the 1990s: one of the first examples of the use of such motifs dates back to 1998 (spring-summer collection).

          We can highlight specific features of borrowings in the collections that the designer worked on, but it should be added that all the examples involved in comparison also have a remarkable feature close to the spirit of Poiret and his style – expressive theatricality bordering on grotesque.A coat from the collection we have mentioned in a silhouette, a print on the fabric – fruits on branches, flower buds with stems – as well as the fur trim of the collar and sleeves goes back to several of Poiret’s creations at once and is a kind of collective image (in particular, from a jacket from 1912. and coat “Persia”).

          The 2009 autumn-winter collection also contains a large number of reminiscences [8]. These ensembles, in contrast to the previous examples, are almost devoid of the aforementioned grotesque and have greater modesty and versatility, since they address the advanced couturier models, in which the modernist tendency towards simplification manifested itself.Parallels can be drawn if we turn to the silhouette, the peculiarities of handling color, cut, decorative elements, as well as the manner of borrowing motives from various cultures – the Middle East, Mongolian and Russian. Of particular interest to fashion houses from different countries is caused by the outerwear offered by Poiret – cocoon coats, capes and mantles. There are frequent references to the motives of cocoon coats – to their style, exquisite color combinations. Borrowings also go back to the “Steppe” jacket. A fuchsia dress with a straight, columnar silhouette matches the early creations of the French fashion designer in the style of the Directory era, in the creation of which Poiret used thin, flying fabrics, for example, the almost identical dress from 1912.These creations reflect this aspect in the costume-

          84

          Poiret-like movement: simple cut, no stiffness in silhouettes and light fabrics allow you to feel more free.

          Poiret united artists and artists around him: their collaboration turned into fruitful projects that managed to glorify his fashion house.Thus, the aforementioned graphic artist and textile designer R. Dufy created a recognizable two-color print for the Persia coat in 1911 – with large alternating beige buds and leaves on a dark background. This element was adapted by American designer Marc Jacobs in an ensemble from the Spring-Summer 2014 collection [9]. The pattern is combined with a simple cut of a blouse and shorts, which stands out favorably due to the flat interpretation of the image. The print on the fabric from which the Jacob’s ensemble is made is almost identical to the original, so it can be attributed to a replica.With the change in style, the ensemble acquires a completely different, more modern sound.

          An example of the use of one of the most non-standard innovations of Poiret – the construction of the “lampshade” tunic [12], which was captured in the illustration of Georges Lepap “Minaret” in 1912, can be seen in the spring-summer 2011 collection of the Italian fashion house Valentino … In a modern interpretation, this design turns into a graceful cape, resting on the line of the shoulders – and in the Poo-aret model, it is an elongated tunic with a square cut and a high waistline, expanding downward.The Valentino model, like Poiret, used an extremely light translucent beige fabric.

          Fashion critic Alexander Fury emphasizes the similarity of the collections of the Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani with some of Poiret’s creations [4]. In a specific adaptation of oriental motives, resonating with the signature style of the fashion house, Armani’s models have something in common with Poiret’s. The Fall / Winter 2011 collection contains reminiscences in the form of softly draped skirts, wide velvet turn-down collars on coats and Art Deco embroidery, which the French fashion designer often referred to.

          Western fashion critics have repeatedly noted in the work of the Belgian designer Dries Van Noten elements, forms, manner of handling color and decoration borrowed from Poiret. C. Anthony-Daran speaks of the similarity of such aspects in the spring-summer 2008 collection. The Belgian designer’s penchant for borrowing Poiret’s methods is confirmed by the exposition solution of the retrospective exhibition “Dries Van Noten: Inspirations” held at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris in 2014.[five]. The ensembles from this collection were exhibited together with the Marrakesh dress created by Paul Poiret in 1924. The “spontaneity” mentioned by Harold Coda in relation to Poiret’s work is also available to Van Noten – thanks to borrowing from many cultural sources and the combination of the straight cut of clothes characteristic of his collections and the “flat” interpretation of forms that we see in Poiret. The dress “Marrakesh” became the prototype for the ensemble in the form of a long loose shirt and straight loose-fitting trousers: in this case, the designer rethought the dress’s decor, made in an oriental manner.

          An earlier example of the Poiret style reminiscence in the designer’s work is an ensemble from the autumn-winter collection of 2004. Both parts of the ensemble are similar in ornamentation and style to the Poiret design ensembles. A cropped Poiret jacket made of fur evokes an association with the Ma-mushroom jacket. The stylized rosebud ornament is found on many pieces of clothing created by Poiret: the designer made it part of his emblem and sometimes depicted it instead of a signature.This element is repeated in Van Noten’s designs with a similar abstract interpretation. The skirt is made of fabric with an ornament in the form of large buds, in the lower part it is decorated with fur stripes.

          Let’s take a look at one of the most extraordinary examples of Poiret’s use of artistic ideas – by designers Victor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren for the Dutch fashion house UyuShr & CoZ. Fantastic illustration by Georges Lepap

          85

          1914depicts a dress from Poiret, with its unusual shape reminiscent of the manicured gardens of Louis XV. After almost 100 years in the spring – summer 2010 collection, the designer duo created a similar dress, the emphasis in the idea of ​​which was on a complex shape, specific work with fabric and dense material of large volume. The slits in Lepap’s dress and its color scheme are repeated in their modern interpretation. This example proves how vast and varied was the influence of fashion illustration, the dissemination and development of which Poiret stimulated.

          In this article, we examined the various appeals of large modern fashion houses to the creative heritage of the French fashion designer of the early twentieth century. These examples illustrate the foresight of Poiret’s views on women’s costume and the versatility of his creative techniques. The studied comparisons borrowed form, textile prints, ways of rethinking regional and theatrical motifs in a costume, subtle color combinations, which are an important means of expression in Poiret’s aesthetic system.The inherent nature of these motifs in the vast structure of fashion collections shows the systematic borrowing, and also reflects the specific order and sequence with which designers approached the heritage of the fashion designer. Fashion houses approach Poiret’s creative techniques in different ways, depending on their history, the aesthetics they maintain, and the accents they choose when creating their collections.

          Thus, highlighting the issues of the connection between Poiret’s works with modern fashion and borrowing by modern designers of the couturier’s costume forms, we came to the conclusion: the couturier’s heritage significantly influenced the development of fashion in the early twentieth century., and then it was confidently inscribed in the history of fashion.

          1. Bagdasarova, IR The term “reminiscence” in art history (theory of the issue) / IR Bagdasarova // Bulletin of the Russian State Pedagogical University. A. I. Herzen. – 2011. – No. 130. – S. 205-213.

          2. Vlasov, V. G. New Encyclopedic Dictionary of Fine Arts: in 10 volumes. Vol. 8: R – C / V. G. Vlasov.- St. Petersburg: Azbuka-classic, 2008 .– 843 p.

          3. Poiret is the king of fashion. Catalog for the exhibition. – Moscow: AzBuka, 2011 .– 308 p.

          4. Fury A. Haute Couture A / W 2011 Armani Prive: Show Peport [Electronic resource]. Showstudio. Available from: https: // showstudio.com/collection/armani_ prive_haute_couture_a_w_2011 / show_ report (accessed: 05/10/2019).

          5.Martin J. In bloom: Dries Van Noten’s first retrospective exhibition at Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs [Electronic resource]. Wallpaper. Available from: https: // www. wallpaper.com/fashion/in-bloom-dries-van-notens-first-retrospective-exhibition-at-paris-muse-des-arts-dcoratifs (accessed: 05/05/2019).

          6. Koda H., Bolton A. Paul Poiret (1879-1944) [Electronic resource]. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Available from: http: //www.metmuseum.org / toah / hd / poir / hd_poir.htm (accessed: 05/04/2019).

          7. Menkes S. Paul Poiret: Pre-Modern magic at the Met [Electronic resource]. The New York Times. Available from: http: // www. nytimes.com/2007/05/07/style/07iht-fpoiret. 1.5595977.html? _R = 0 (accessed: 04/17/2019).

          8. Mower S. Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior [Electronic resource]. Vogue. Available from: https: //www.vogue.com / fashion-shows / fall-2009-ready-to-wear / christian-dior (accessed: 05/01/2019).

          9. Miller K. Vintage Inspiration Board: Marc Jacobs S / S 14 [Electronic resource]. WGSN. Available from: http://www.wgsn.com/ blogs / vintage / vintage-inspiration-board-marc-jacobs-ss-14 (accessed: 02/01/2019).

          10. Palais Galliera Collection [Electronic resource]. Palais Galliera. Available from: http: // palaisgalliera.paris.fr/ (accessed: 05/10/2019).

          11. Thurman J. In fashion cut loose. Paul Poiret’s revolution [Electronic resource]. The New Yorker. Available from: http: // www newyorker.com/magazine/2007/05/21/ cut-loose (accessed: 05/07/2019).

          12. Video: ‘Poiret: King of Fashion’ at the Met [Electronic resource]. Vimeo. Available from: https://vimeo.com/5613382 (accessed: 05/07/2019).

          13.Walker H. 2011. Less Is More: A History of Minimalism in Fashion. London: Merrell. 192 p.

          Received 07/30/2019

          86

          P. Shilina

          Post-graduate student (24.00.01), Department of Art History, Saint-Petersburg State University of Culture and Arts E-mail: shilinap @ list.ru

          The Style of Paul Poiret and its’ Representation in the World Fashion of the late XX – early XXI century

          Abstract. French designer Paul Poiret had a great influence on the formation of modern costume forms. The article is observing the features of couturier’s creative evolution and specific techniques, by which he was achieving the artistic expression in his works. The fashion designer, was following at the beginning of the XX century his own concept and was creating – not within the framework, but in parallel with existing fashion trends, – the design of clothes by draping and cutting from a solid rectangular fabric piece.At the same time, Poiret was actively using the references to ancient and regional types of costume, which have been reflected in the minimalist cut, revolutionary for that time. The author explores the influence of the French couturier on contemporary fashion, studying the reminiscences of his methods in the collections of contemporary designers of the late XX – early XXI century: in particular, the designers of France, USA, Italy, Belgium, and Holland are referring to colors, silhouettes and decorating motifs of Paul Poiret’s creations.

          Keywords: Paul Poiret, women’s costume, modernism, fashion, reminiscence, cut, orientalism

          For citing: Shilina P. 2019. The Style of Paul Poiret and its’ Representation in the World Fashion of the late XX – early XXI century. Culture and Arts Herald. No 3 (59): 82-87.

          References

          1.Bagdasarova I. 2011. The term “reminiscence” in art history (question theory). Izvestiya Rossiyskogo gosudarstvennogo pedagogicheskogo universiteta im. A. I. Gertsena [Izvestia: Herzen University Journal of Humanities & Sciences]. No 130: 205-213. (In Russ.).

          2. Vlasov V. 2008. Novyy entsiklopedicheskiy slovar ‘izobrazitel’nogo iskusstva [New encyclopedic dictionary of visual arts]: in 10 vol. Vol. 8: R – S. St. Petersburg: Azbuka-klassika.843 p. (In Russ.).

          3. Puare – korol ‘mody [Poiret – the king of fashion]. 2011. Moscow: AzBuka. 308 p. (In Russ.).

          4. Fury A. Haute Couture A / W 2011 Armani Prive: Show Peport [Electronic resource]. Showstudio. Available from: https://showstudio.com/collection/armani_prive_haute_couture_a_w_2011/show_report (accessed: 05/10/2019). (In Eng.).

          5.Martin J. In bloom: Dries Van Noten’s first retrospective exhibition at Paris’ Musee des Arts Decoratifs [Electronic resource]. Wallpaper. Available from: https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/in-bloom-dries-van-notens-first-retrospective-exhibition-at-paris-muse-des-arts-dcoratifs (accessed: 05/05/2019). (In Eng.).

          6. Koda H., Bolton A. Paul Poiret (1879-1944) [Electronic resource]. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Available from: http: // www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/poir/hd_poir.htm (accessed: 05/04/2019). (In Eng.).

          7. Menkes S. Paul Poiret: Pre-Modern magic at the Met [Electronic resource]. The New York Times. Available from: http://www.nytimes.com/2007/05/07/style/07iht-fpoiret. 1.5595977.html? _R = 0 (accessed: 04/17/2019). (In Eng.).

          8. Mower S. Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear: Christian Dior [Electronic resource]. Vogue. Available from: https: // www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2009-ready-to-wear/christian-dior (accessed: 05/01/2019). (In Eng.).

          9. Miller K. Vintage Inspiration Board: Marc Jacobs S / S 14 [Electronic resource]. WGSN. Available from: http: // www.wgsn.com/blogs/vintage/vintage-inspiration-board-marc-jacobs-ss-14 (accessed: 02/01/2019). (In Eng.).

          10. Palais Galliera Collection [Electronic resource]. Palais Galliera.Available from: http: // palaisgalliera. paris.fr/ (accessed: 05/10/2019). (In Eng.).

          11. Thurman J. In fashion cut loose. Paul Poiret’s revolution [Electronic resource]. The New Yorker. Available from: http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2007/05/21/cut-loose (accessed: 05/07/2019). (In Eng.).

          12. Video: ‘Poiret: King of Fashion’ at the Met [Electronic resource]. Vimeo. Available from: https: // vimeo.com / 5613382 (accessed: 05/07/2019). (In Eng.).

          13. Walker H. 2011. Less Is More: A History of Minimalism in Fashion. London: Merrell. 192 p. (In Eng.).

          Received 07/30/2019

          87

          90,000 This is a fashionable right now, or is it true that intellectual property is protected while protecting the rights of fashion designers?

          Law.Ru is an officially registered media outlet. The link to this article will look like this: Rozhkova M.A. This is the fashionable right now, or is it true that intellectual property is protected while protecting the rights of fashion designers? [Electronic resource] // Zakon.ru. 2017.23 December. URL: https://zakon.ru/blog/2017/12/23/eto_modnoe_nynche_modnoe_pravo_ili_pravda_li_chto_pri_zaschite_prav_modnyh_dizajnerov_zaschischaetsy

          The national legislation on the dependence of other intellectual property has been changing recently.For example, not so long ago, production directors defended their rights to stage productions [1].

          And now a new wave has risen – they are talking about the need to amend the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, strengthening the protection of the rights of designers of the fashion industry . Moreover, the main attention in the discussed draft law is paid to the fight against plagiarism seasonal collections clothes / shoes / accessories, which is explained quite simply: the opportunity provided by the current Civil Code of the Russian Federation to patent the design of clothes / shoes / accessories as an industrial design is ineffective for protecting the rights of designers, since “when a patent for a collection, for example, autumn shoes, will be issued (the process usually takes six to nine months after the application is filed, with additional examinations – up to 20 months), it will become outdated long ago ”[2].

          With this in mind, it was proposed to protect the rights of designers of the fashion industry from the moment they filed a patent application (and not after receiving it). That is, it is proposed to give designers the right to sue for compensation for infringement of intellectual property not from the moment of obtaining a patent for an industrial design, but from the moment of filing an application for this patent.

          How reasonable is this proposal?

          For example, V. Pasternak does not consider this approach to be correct: “If we are to tackle this issue, then it must be done with respect to all industrial designs … or justify why the results of the creative work of designers of clothes, shoes and accessories are assigned a special status” [3 ].According to the author, it is necessary, firstly, “to justify the special status of the results of the creative work of designers of clothing, footwear and accessories in comparison with any other results that could also be protected as industrial designs” [4], and, secondly, the issue of unfair behavior of applicants who, as a result, did not receive a patent for an industrial design, but at the same time exercised their right to protection after filing an application (i.e. demanded compensation for violation of their exclusive rights) must be resolved.

          At the same time, V. Pasternak draws attention to the fact that as the basis for the formation of the above amendments in the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, clause 2 of Art. 25 of the TRIPS Agreement, which is interpreted by the developers of the project as imposing on the WTO member states the obligation to grant special protection to textile designs as industrial designs. Meanwhile, paragraph 2 of Art. 25 of the TRIPS Agreement enshrines the following rule: “Each Member shall ensure that the conditions for ensuring the protection of textile designs, in particular with regard to any expense, examination or publication, do not unduly impede the ability to seek and obtain such protection.Members are free to comply with this obligation through design law or copyright law. ” According to V. Pasternak, it is obvious that “there is no obligation in the TRIPS agreement, which would compel now to change the Civil Code regarding the beginning of the protection of industrial designs” [5].

          Supporting the stated position, let’s try to analyze the issue from the other side.

          Legal Protection of Design: Copyright, Patent or Trademark Rights?

          Copyright. Within the meaning of clause 1 of Art. 1259 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation, design works are protected like any other objects copyright regardless of their merits, purpose and method of expression.

          Domestic legislation on intellectual property provides that the object of copyright must be created by creative labor and objectified, that is, fixed in a form that assumes the possibility of perception of the work by another person [6]. But there are no criteria for the protection of copyright works (like the requirement of “originality”, “novelty”, “individuality”, etc.) part four of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation does not provide, which allows us to say that any works that are the result of creative labor and are expressed in a form that can be perceived by another person are subject to legal protection. The exceptions to the general rule are counterfeit works (when one person appropriates the authorship of someone else’s work), works containing plagiarism (unlawful borrowing by the author of parts of someone else’s work), as well as works with excessive unjustified citation [7].

          It is also important to note that for the emergence, exercise and protection of copyright, including design works, in accordance with paragraph 4 of Art. 1259 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation does not require registration of the work or compliance with any other formalities .

          Patent Law . The result of the designer’s intellectual work in accordance with paragraph 1 of Art. 1352 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation can receive patent protection as industrial design – in this case, the appearance of the product is protected.

          For the emergence of patent rights, registration of industrial design in the state register is required, on the basis of which Rospatent issues patent (Article 1353 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). Protection of exclusive rights to an industrial design can be carried out only after its state registration and the issuance of a patent (clause 1 of article 1363 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation).

          It is important to note that patent protection can be granted to an industrial design only if it is new and original .

          An industrial design is new , if the totality of its essential features is not known from information that became publicly available in the world before the priority date of the industrial design (clause 2 of Art. 1352 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). According to par. 3 p. 1 of Art. 1352 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation to , the essential features of an industrial design include features that determine the aesthetic features of the appearance of a product: shape, configuration, ornament, combination of colors, lines, product contours, texture, texture of product material, etc.

          An industrial design is original if its essential features are due to creative nature of the product’s features (clause 3 of Art. 1352 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation).

          Trademark law. The result of the designer’s intellectual work in accordance with paragraph 1 of Art. 1477 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation can receive legal protection as of the trademark (the grounds for refusing to register as a quality are in Art. 1483 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation).

          For the emergence of rights in this case, registration of the trademark in the state register (Art.1480 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation), on the basis of which Rospatent issues certificate , certificate (clause 1 of Art. 1481 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation). The certificate confirms the exclusive rights to the trademark in relation to only those goods that are indicated in the certificate (clause 2 of article 1481 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation).

          The world of fashion: plagiarism, interpretation, quoting?

          Sometimes designers create new, unique products – take at least the famous Lady Gaga’s meat dress .

          But the creations usually created by fashion designers are secondary, based on the interpretation or transformation of other people’s ideas : “Chanel spied ideas for her corporate style à la garçonne in men’s wardrobe items of the early 20th century, in particular, from her beloved Arthur“ Boy »Capela.Dior did not invent the famous silhouette corolle out of nothing, but reworked the dress with a crinoline of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, modernizing it. Yves Saint Laurent’s scandalous 1971 collection was inspired by the Parisian fashion of the 1940s and resembled a collage of things found in vintage shops on the Left Bank. Vivienne Westwood more than once used references to historical costume in her works, collecting a single picture from visual pieces of different eras (later John Galliano would actively resort to this technique, first within his own brand, and then – Dior ).The idea of ​​dressing men in skirts did not belong to Jean-Paul Gaultier – he borrowed it from the outstanding stylist Ray Petrie “ [8] .

          Undoubtedly, in such cases there is no reason to talk about plagiarism . Domestic fashion historian Alexander Vasiliev suggests to regard such cases as quotations: “Plagiarism is if you looked at the collection in Milan and did something similar the next year in Kiev. And the citation – when you watched the 1955 film and made a collection in this style, but from a new angle, with modern fabrics and cuts.This is very welcome in fashion. ” [9] .

          The anonymous creator of the Instagram account Diet Prada , who made a name for himself on the disclosures of “borrowing someone else’s” couturier, does not consider copying old collections as a violation of the rights of designers: x years … But if we are talking about men’s suits from the last season, this is a completely different matter. ” [10] . This opinion seems to be quite controversial, but its analysis is not covered by the objectives of this work.

          For the purposes of this work, it is important to pay attention to something else.

          In the field of fashion design, what is of particular importance is what is a kind of hallmark of a fashion house or designer’s and is repeated from collection to collection. And how can we not recall the red sole of Christian Louboutin (a patent for which he managed to obtain by no means in all countries where legal protection was requested), three stripes Adidas (registered as a trademark), checkered pattern Nova Check from Burberry (registered as a trademark), etc.For the legal protection of such “relatively eternal” results of design work, the opportunities provided by patent law (patenting as industrial designs) and by trademark law (registration as a trademark) are used.

          In case of misuse of these objects by other persons, copyright holders actively defend their rights in court. This is, for example, case Adidas v. ECCO (in which Adidas accused ECCO of deliberately “parasitizing” the reputation of its trademark in the form of three stripes) or another “striped conflict” – Gucci v.Forever 21 (which challenged the use of Forever 21 in clothing design a combination of blue, red and green stripes similar to the registered trademark Gucci ), etc.

          A slightly different attitude towards seasonal collections : as a rule, designers do not try to obtain a patent for a style, color combination, new pattern, etc., which are created for one season, since it is expensive, labor-intensive and impractical.

          The absence of a patent for an industrial design or registered trademarks, however, does not exclude the possibility for designers to demand protection of the rights to their design in the event of its unlawful borrowing.So, Puma announced plagiarism by Topshop Forever 21 models from the limited spring-summer collection, and Aquazzura accused its rival Steve Madden and Ivanka Trump (daughter of Donald Trump) of copying popular models of sandals.

          Notably, spokesman Ivanka Trump said the controversial “sandals represent fashion trends this season and are not subject to intellectual property protection.” And this is where the fun really begins.

          Trend Book s and other sources of “creative” inspiration for fashion designers

          The modern consumer for the most part is not too whimsical and “does not require originality from the designer – often the hype created around the brand or compliance with trends becomes much more important “ [11] . The result of this was that modern designers of the fashion industry are essentially not engaged in the development and implementation of their own creative ideas, but in the creation of well-selling products that correspond to current fashion trends.As a result, fashion today is “90% business and only 10% creativity, therefore, for almost every brand, the primary task is to sell a product, and not to produce a brilliant idea that will live through the years” [12].

          In order to design clothes / shoes / accessories in line with fashion trends, designers usually use specialized analytical reviews-forecasts – trendbooks (eng. trend book s ; from eng. trend – trend, book – book).

          Trendbooks are issued by fashion trend agencies [13] (“style bureau”) and represent the result of the work of a large number of trend hunters – trend hunters trend hunter ; from English hunter – hunter) …

          In order to determine fashion trends, trend hunters study regional socio-political, economic, cultural and social changes, current trends in subcultures, the emergence of new views among the target audience and the presence of established opinions, etc.etc. [14] Usually, this takes into account the ideas of generally recognized trendsetters – trendsetters ( trendsetter ; from English to set – set, start), who introduce new types of clothes / shoes / accessories, new material combinations, new color combinations, etc. etc.

          The material collected by regional trend hunters is analyzed, and on its basis 4-5 key trends in fashion for the season (several seasons) are determined. Then, on the basis of regional forecasts, a general (world) one is made, which is presented in the form of a trend book containing a detailed analysis of the styles and silhouettes fashionable in the next season (subsequent seasons), color combinations, textures of fabrics, varieties of finishes, prints and patterns, accessories, etc.I would like to draw your attention to the fact that trendbooks are not a textual description of fashion trends, but photos and illustrations (see examples here, here and here).

          Trendbooks are purchased by fashion houses and designers and are used in the creation of seasonal collections: undoubtedly, something of their own is introduced into the developed models, but the recommendations of the “style bureau” are the foundation. That is why new collections of leading couturiers from time to time coincide in styles, colors, fabrics – this is due to the fact that the same trendbooks were used in their creation.

          Sometimes fashion trend agencies prepare analytical reviews-forecasts for the individual order of a particular fashion house / designer. At the same time, some designers, including domestic [15] , do not consider it necessary to constantly refer to the forecasts of trendbooks, and in their work on product design they rely on the requests and needs of buyers and use the trends seen in “street fashion », street style blogs, Instagram , etc.This became the basis for recognition: “… the world of fashion, in fact, has long become a single creative space, something like a collective information field. When sending a boat to this endless ocean, everyone should be aware of the risks ”[16].

          Summing up, we can say that when creating seasonal collections clothes / shoes / accessories, the designer cannot do without studying and using reviews of fashion trends, current trends . Under these conditions, a reasonable question arises: can we talk about novelty and / or originality when creating seasonal collections , which are required for registration as an industrial design in accordance with cl.2 and 3 st. 1352 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation?

          Conclusions

          The above allows us to give a negative assessment to the proposal indicated at the beginning of this article on the need to provide the design of clothes / shoes / accessories with legal protection until it is registered as an industrial design – from the moment of filing an application with Rospatent … The provision proposed for introduction into the Civil Code of the Russian Federation is clearly not able to cope with the problem of plagiarism of design creations, but is almost ideal for its application in order to obtain an unjustified advantage and limit competition, as well as unjust enrichment.

          So, by filing a patent application, for example, for a leopard print or polka dot pattern (when it is obvious that such objects cannot be patented as an industrial design), the applicant acquires the legal right to “nightmare” competitors. He can demand from all (!) Persons to stop the production of products with a leopard print or polka dots, as well as compensation for violation of his (the applicant’s) rights. Apparently, the drafters of the bill did not even think about the fate of the recovered compensation in the event of the subsequent refusal of the applicant to register the industrial design.

          To solve the problems of plagiarism in the field of fashion design , it seems correct to turn to the study of foreign experience not in terms of legal protection of intellectual property, but in relation to the regulation of the suppression of unfair competition. In this sense, for example, Spanish legislation is of interest: “In Spain, for example, plagiarism in the fashion industry is considered in accordance with the article on unfair competition in business. Imitation is illegal here and is considered plagiarism if one of 3 conditions is met.Firstly, there should be a risk that the original and the copy can be confused … The second condition is an unfair advantage that the manufacturer receives when copying the product … And the third is a deliberate systemic imitation aimed at displacing a competitor from its position to this industry ”[17]. Undoubtedly, there is no reason to blindly borrow someone else’s legal constructions, but they should be taken into account when developing proposals for improving domestic legislation.

          Other works of the author in open access – http://rozhkova.com/all.html

          P.S. IP CLUB news feed in the field of intellectual property and digital law (IP & Digital Law) at:

          facebook – https://www.facebook.com/ipclubin

          Vkontakte – https://vk.com/ipclubin

          telegram – https://t.me/ipclubin


          [1] Now it is legally stipulated that the staging of a performance is the result of intellectual (in this case, performing) activity if this production is expressed in a form that allows its repeated public performance while maintaining its recognition by the audience

          [6] See.about this in more detail: Rozhkova M.A. Intellectual property: basic aspects of protection and protection. Moscow: prospect, 2017.S. 21 et seq.

          [13] Agencies Nelly Rody, Peclers, Promostyl, Carlin International are recognized as the leaders of the fashion trend market.

          [14] “Initially, the term trend-hunter defined the activity of opinion leaders who observe the mood of the target audience, changes in the views and tendencies of the observed audience.From the moment of realizing that a timely noticed market trend will not only help you earn more, but also allow you to become a market leader, marketing specialists have adopted trend hunting.

          In addition to observing trends in the market, the trend hunter closely monitors trend makers, the development of technology and technology, changes in the socio-political, economic, social and cultural life of not only the observed target group and market segment, but also large groups and society as a whole.

          Professional trend hunter – specialist in complex marketing analysis of the environment and monitoring trends.

          Trend-watcher (trend-watcher) is a trend watcher. The trend changes over time, grows with new trends, spreads to other areas and (or) to other target groups. Timely tracking and reacting to a change in a known trend is the task of the trend yesterday.

          Trend setter (trend setter, trend maker) – a person, company, event or brand that determines market trends by their actions, position and views.

          Trend Hunter is not the same as Cool Hunter . If a trend-hanetor analyzes tendencies, then a kul-hunter only pays attention to everything “cool” (cool). It is not at all necessary that the audience’s outburst of interest in the new will acquire the properties of a trend that is stable over time. Analysis of the reasons for the appearance of trends, the search for secondary signs of a trend is a big and more important job than just noticing new things that the target audience pays attention to ”(Notes of a marketer // http: // www.marketch.ru/marketing_dictionary/marketing_terms_t/trend-hunter/).

          http://www.kitaichina.com/

          Fashion Leader

          Chinese actress Gong Li starred at the International Film Festival, she directly increased the influence of the qipao dress

          In the past decade, both at home and abroad, the Chinese qipao dress has received much more attention than in previous years. Famous world-famous designers also did not pass him by their attention, one after another they draw inspiration from this amazing example of Chinese sewing and design art.Some experts believe that if in the 30s and 40s. of the last century in the qipao dress all the time there was a “borrowing of foreign approaches”, then today, fashion designers, both haute couture and ready-to-wear, began to borrow classical Chinese elements from the qipao dress, the world became Chinese direction “in the design of international fashion.

          Haute Couture Craze

          On September 12, 2013, on the last day of New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2014, the creative director of the American fashion brand Calvin Klein Collection Francisco Costa presented his collection, in which he took an approach to designing the waist of the qipao dress, emphasizing the beauty of the female figure.

          In fact, the haute couture craze for qipao dresses has long been no secret to all fashion designers. The first to hit the Chinese market and world-renowned designer Pierre Cardin was a devoted fan of the qipao dress. He himself admitted: “When designing evening dresses, most of my work was inspired by the dress in the Chinese qipao style.” While the eminent Japanese fashion designer Issei Miyake and the Italian designer Valentino also tried to create different models of the qipao dress, and repeatedly presented their work at fashion shows or design competitions.

          On September 22, 2011, at the first Chengdu International Fashion Week, the finale of the runway show featured a bikini and a Sichuan brocade qipao dress at the same time. Explaining this conceptual decision, the famous modern Irish fashion designer-hatter Philip Tracy frankly said that the qipao dress served as the source of inspiration for his work, he tried to make people feel the mutual fusion of Eastern and Western cultures and the reflection of Western culture in chinese traditional dress qipao.

          Fashion designers and designers in general believe that qipao dress contains many unique approaches to clothing design. For example, this dress has a peculiar collar, as well as unusually exquisite buttons and patterns on the chest. There is nothing quite like it in Western-style clothing design. In the 30s and 40s. of the last century in the qipao dress all the time there was a “borrowing of foreign approaches”, and now, on the contrary, “approaches to modeling the qipao dress are widely used in the design of foreign works.”It can be said that the qipao dress, as an important component of the garment industry, not only borrowed many Western fashion design concepts, but also began to influence modern Western fashion design, ”said Wu Haiyan, vice chairman of the Chinese Fashion Designers Association, famous Chinese fashion designer.

          Innovative approaches in modeling

          As the qipao dress became increasingly popular in international fashion, the Chinese fashion designers began to experience an inexplicable excitement.They all the time ask themselves the following question: “When all foreigners begin to borrow an approach to design from the qipao dress, what will serve as the basis for this dress itself?”

          “An innovative approach to modeling should be the soul of the revival and development of the Chinese qipao dress,” Wu Haiyan keeps repeating.

          Many fashion designers began to look for a new approach to clothing design. In the 90s. last century, Chinese fashion designers in the person of Wang Xiaolin, the founder of the famous Chinese dress qipao brand Mu Zhen Liao, began to update the qipao dress: based on the preservation of traditional elegance and accentuated severity, the qipao dress was enriched with modern and Western elements, it turned into a beautiful, comfortable, clothing suitable for everyday wear.

          Meanwhile, in the innovative design, fashion designers also fully took into account the peculiarities of foreign consumers, taking into account their figure and temperament, made appropriate adjustments in terms of materials and style. “Foreign consumers, by their very nature, prefer a culture of freedom and individuality. In this regard, we have abandoned many restrictions in the form of the traditional choice of materials, purposefully developed and ordered special fabrics: for example, the combination of silk with modern textile materials; or modern textile materials decorated with hand-painted landscape or oil painting; striving to maintain the line, we have done away with traditional symmetry and the golden ratio, innovatively used techniques such as asymmetry, the rejection of the proportions of the golden ratio, appliqué and paper cut, ”said Wang Xiaolin.

          It is thanks to the variety of materials and methods of decoration that the qipao dress managed to enter the world arena. Today in Korea, Japan and France, it is easy to find a Chinese brand of qipao dresses for sale, the innovative design gave the dress an opportunity to get to know the world and be accepted and sought after by fans all over the world.

          Return to everyday life

          Although the qipao dress has firmly taken its place among other garments, it seems that it is still far from so widespread in the ordinary daily life of people.In modern China, women wear the qipao dress only for solemn moments and on special occasions. The editor-in-chief of the Italian magazine Vogue Italia (Vogue is a popular women’s fashion magazine, published in 19 countries) Franca Sozzani, after a visit to Shanghai, said not without disappointment: “When I wandered the streets of Shanghai, I noticed that few Chinese women wears a qipao dress and can only be seen in the windows of fancy dress or souvenir shops. ”

          The Chinese themselves are helpless in this situation.“Some changes are needed to transform the qipao dress from urban fashionista into casual wear. We always emphasize the need to “modernize the design of the qipao dress, bring it closer to the requirements of the modern era.” To do this, you need to force ordinary people to re-acquaint themselves with the history of qipao, so that it again becomes popular, affordable and worthy to enter the world arena clothing, “says Fan Dian, director of the China Art Museum.

          In order for the Chinese traditional dress to return not only to the catwalks, but also to the streets, just empty words are not enough, concrete measures must be taken for this.“Many retailers and fashion designers are now striving to transform the qipao dress into casual wear, and they have already achieved some success along the way, however, certain factors, such as price, marketing, style, etc., still hinder the further distribution of this dress. “- concluded Wang Xiaolin.

          In addition, according to some experts, it is still necessary to educate people in traditional aesthetic perception. Rector of the China Art Institute Xu Jiang said: “We cannot but admit that qipao dress remains more or less alien in the eyes of modern youth. beautiful “.

          In the second decade of October 2013 in the city of Nanjing (Eastern China) – a place where in the 40s. last century, the flowering of the qipao dress took place, the “Chinese style qipao dress culture week” will be held, during which there will be a show of old photographs and fashions, presentations by experts, etc. Chinese Qipao Dress Culture Week admission will be free for female participants wearing this dress.The Chinese seem to be trying in every way to revive the fashion for the traditional qipao dress.

          Dresses by Grodno designer Irina Primachek – from the world of high runway fashion

          If we were in Paris, and Irina was the owner of a fashion house, her outfits would have an official status of “haute couture”.

          Haute Couture

          According to the Paris High Couture Syndicate of 1868, haute couture clothing must be at least 70 percent handmade. And also these are unique fabrics, kilograms of jewelry and, of course, an exclusive design and a one-of-a-kind piece.
          Irina has several such collections. One of the last – “Magic”, which Grodno residents could see at the Grodno Fashion Show this year. Remember luxurious evening dresses decorated with beads, natural fur and expensive stones? It’s them. And the first in this collection was a white dress with strands of pearls on the back.

          A variety of techniques and variations have been used in women’s clothing. Today, simply designing a dress will hardly surprise anyone. And I decided to use the macrame technique.It seemed that this might interest the public and the jury, – Irina talks about that very first dress.

          Although it would seem that there is something unusual here: several standard knots that are used when weaving with threads … But a competent color combination, fancy patterns and two months of work “tirelessly” – all this literally made a unique outfit out of ordinary material and technique. And then the designer was one hundred percent right: her dress won the competition organized by the Keramin company.
          Over the past two years, several more dresses have appeared in the same technique – this is how the Magic collection was born, which Irina presented for the first time in the spring at the Fashion Mill. In autumn Grodno residents also saw it. By the way, the ease with which the models walked the runway in dresses is deceiving: some of the bows are quite heavy. White, for example, weighs at least four kilograms, not the lightest and black with natural fur at the bottom, about two kilograms – the weight of a beaded dress, which, however, looks very airy.So what about the kilograms of jewelry in haute couture outfits, and here the truth is.

          Passion by inheritance

          I always sewed and altered something. Made from unfashionable fashionable , – Irina recalls herself as a teenager. – Mom sewed well, my brother and I always had the most original and beautiful New Year’s costumes. Probably, the desire to create something unusual in clothes was passed on to some extent from her.

          And Irina is also from the village of Porozovo, Svisloch District, which has always been the most fashionable in the area.It was there that they went to the shops, and it was there that you could buy original things. Weekends are, as our contemporaries would say, shopping. Residents of the village and the surrounding area put on their best outfits and went out to shop. Add to this creativity, the desire to surprise, delight and be original – that’s a designer is born.

          For a long time I just did something for myself, my family. Like my mother, she sewed costumes for her children, Nastya and Danika, for New Year’s parties.

          Four years ago, after long doubts, Irina decided to take part in the Republican Fashion and Photo Festival-Contest “Fashion Mill”, which became her first and in some way a turning point in her design path. She presented her daughter’s dress for the prom in kindergarten for the competition of sketches, it was approved. For the show, she created a collection “Anastasia”, which was well received by experts in the fashion world and viewers. This instilled confidence.

          The very next year Irina prepared an extravagant and cheerful jeans collection in the grunge style, which won first place at the Fashion Mill.As a winner, this collection traveled to Europe, participated in fashion shows in Krakow, Milan, Venice, Padua and Vienna. The designer especially remembered the show in Krakow, which was dedicated to the theme of jeans. About two hundred young designers, university graduates, presented their works, and no one had a hint of Irina’s idea: weaving from jeans.

          Later this collection was presented in Belarus, photographed for fashion magazines, she participated in the shows of the fashion studio of Sergei Nagornov. The Magic collection will also appear in magazines soon.
          Educator and designer

          Actively and immediately brightly entering the world of fashion, Irina has already created 75 looks, and these are seven completely different collections. Now the designer has a main dream – to make his own show. And see your dress on some celebrity. They (the dresses, of course) are actually red carpet worthy.

          In the meantime, the designer is creating. Irina is working on a new teenage collection, in which she decided to move a little away from haute couture. As always, going to surprise and try something new.

      Related Posts

      Leave a Reply

      Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *