Blanket ribbon binding instructions: DIY: How to Sew With Satin Blanket Binding

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DIY: How to Sew With Satin Blanket Binding

This is a guest post from Blair Stocker of Wise Craft Handmade.

How to Sew With Satin Blanket Binding

I realize that is a picture of a blanket. In summer. But before you go running to the air conditioner vent, bear with me.

I have a habit of making wintery things during summer. Unexplainable, really, but I doubt I’m the only one. I recently made my first trip to Britex Fabrics in San Francisco (if you’ve been there, I am sharing a wide-eyed, nodding look with you right now). I found a beautiful piece of wool/poly blend fabric that I wanted to make it into some sort of blanket. A blanket for a getaway cabin I don’t actually own, but that’s another subject all together. Why wait for winter when I can get this project out of the way now, and share my love of pre-made satin blanket binding and how to sew with you?

Satin blanket binding can be found at most big box craft stores, usually displayed with the zippers and thread. It comes in pre-cut packages like the one in the photo above, 4 3/4 yds, single folded (measures 2″ wide folded). It’s meant to be sandwiched around the edge of your chosen blanket material, to finish it off. In my case, it’s this large piece of wool, but you can use anything… minky fabric, a thick knit, terry cloth, sweatshirt knit, polar fleece, you name it. (Note for upcyclers- I often see large wool remnants at the thrift store that would be perfect to turn into a blanket after a good dry cleaning.) This binding could even be used as a wide quilt binding. Lots of possibilities.

 

Materials

  • Blanket Fabric (For reference, my fabric was 61″ wide, and I purchased 2 yards, so about 60″ x 70″)
  • Prepackaged satin blanket binding. To determine how much you need, add length of all 4 sides together and add 10″. (I needed 2 packages.)
  • Fabric scissors or cutting mat and rotary cutter
  • Quilter’s ruler (3″ x 20″ is a good size, but any long, straight edge will do)
  • Sewing machine that can sew a zigzag stitch.
  • Satin blanket binding in a coordinating color.
  • Binder clips
  • Straight pins
  • Hand sewing needle

Step One:

Trim a straight edge on the cut edge sides (the selvedge edges are fine as is).

Step Two:

The binding has one edge that is 1/4″ shorter than the other (see below). The shorter edge is the one that should face up when you sew, and will be on the right side of your blanket.

Open up the binding and, starting around the midway point of one long side, sandwich the edge of the blanket in the binding. Make sure you are getting the blanket edging all the way to the inside fold. I find binder clips are helpful to hold things in place. Do this all the way down the side, stopping a few inches from the corner.

Step Three:

Set up your sewing machine for a wide zigzag stitch. I set the width on my Bernina to 4.25 with a normal stitch length. (Practice on a scrap piece if you need to.) Begin sewing right at the beginning of the binding, and let your zigzag stitches straddle the edge of the binding facing up. Because you did a good job of sandwiching the binding evenly, you will be catching/stitching along the other bottom edge that you can’t see. (Don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds.)

Step Four:

When you get a few inches away from a corner, you’ll need to stop and create a mitered fold. You can either leave the needle down in the fabric and do it at the machine, or secure with a backstitch and remove from under the machine, for easier folding. Open up the binding at the corner and position it as shown below-

Fold the binding back over the edge of the next side you’ll sew, creating a mitered corner at the corner, like below. The fold should be the same, but going in the opposite direction on the back. Secure in place with binder clips or pins, and continue stitching.

Step Five:

To add in a new piece of binding, simply clip it into place as pictured below, 1″ or so over the previous edge, and continue to sew on.

Step Six:

I like to add a few slip stitches at the folded corners and where the new binding joins with the old, just to keep everything secure.

You’re done!

 

 

How to Bind a Quilt in 6 Easy Steps

Do you love quilting but struggle with the binding?


I love making every part of a quilt, including the binding, so I thought I’d share my favorite method for how to bind quilts with you. It’s called continuous-length, double-fold, straight-of-grain binding. That’s a mouthful, but it’s how I finish all my quilts.


Follow along to learn how to bind quilts with my six-step method!





Step 1: Calculate and cut your binding strips


Photo via Craftsy member Christa Quilts


Measure the perimeter of your quilt by adding the length and width of your quilt and multiplying that by 2. Then add an extra 10″ to deal with seams and corners. For example, my quilt measures 56″ x 70″.


Here’s how I calculate my binding:


56″ + 56″ + 70″ + 70″ + 10″ = 262″ inches needed


Next, take this measurement and divide it by 40. This will tell you the number of strips you will need to cut, with 40″ of usable fabric. My number is 6.55, which I will round up to 7 strips of fabric.


I like my binding to finish approximately 1/4″ on both front and back. Therefore I will cut my strips at 2 1/4″ wide. You can cut them wider and use a wider seam allowances if you prefer more of the binding to show.


I need to cut a total of seven 2 1/4″ wide strips to bind my quilt.


Step 2: Sew the binding into a continuous length


Place two strips with right sides together at a 90-degree angle. Sew them together at a 45-degree angle across the diagonal. Sewing mitered seams like this helps distribute the bulk. If needed, you can draw a straight line across the diagonal or press one of the ends along the diagonal to form a sewing line.


If you are using solid fabric like me, it will be a little trickier to keep track of which is the “right” side. You can use a pin or piece of tape to designate the right side if you like. Be sure to trim the starting edge of your binding at a 45-degree angle, too.


Step 3: Press the binding


Press the binding wrong sides together along the entire length.




Step 4: Attach the binding to the quilt


Trim off the excess backing and batting before you attach your binding. I use my favorite tools to square up my quilts: a large square ruler for the corners, and a long straight ruler for the sides.


Quickly run your binding along the perimeter of your quilt to ensure you won’t have any seams falling in the corners. If you do, move the binding up or down a few inches to avoid seams at the corners.


Starting at least 6″ – 8″ away from the corner, place your binding on the front side of the quilt and leave a tail of about 6″ – 8″. Line up the open binding ends with the edge of your quilt. The folded edge should be facing toward the quilt.


Starting at the pin shown in the previous photo, stitch the binding onto the front of the quilt with 1/4″ seam allowance. Use a walking foot or even-feed if possible. When you get to a corner, stop stitching 1/4″ away from the corner and sew off the corner.


At this point, your corner should look like this:


Take the quilt off the machine and fold the binding up and away from the quilt as shown. Keep the edge of the binding in line with the edge of the quilt as shown.


Bring the binding back down, creating a tuck of fabric underneath. This will form the miter on the front of the quilt.


Starting from the edge of the quilt, stitch the next side of binding down until you reach the next corner and repeat this process for all four corners.

Leave an ending tail of 6″ – 8″ of binding. Trim off the excess, leaving a few inches of overlap to work with. Open up the end of the binding and place the beginning tail inside it.


Using the cut and angled end as a guide, lightly mark a line right up next to it. Then cut 1/2″ away from this measurement to account for seam allowances on both ends.


Put the two tail ends right sides together, and sew with 1/4″ seam to complete the continuous loop of binding.


Close up the binding and finish stitching it down on the front of the quilt. You are now ready to finish stitching the binding down on the back of the quilt.


Step 5: Secure with clips


I find it easier to completely secure the binding to the back of the quilt with Clover Wonder Clips before I begin hand-stitching it down. For a throw-sized quilt, it takes about 100 clips to go all the way around the quilt. Pins or hair clips work well, too.


Step 6: Hand-stitch the binding on back


Put on a good movie and enjoy the relaxing process of hand work for a pretty finish.


Thread several needles using the same thread you used to sew on the binding. Clip off about 18″ of thread to use at a time. Wrap the thread around the needle three times and pull it to the end of you thread to create a quilter’s knot. You can double your thread for extra strength and durability.

I use a thimble to help push the needle through the fabric when needed.


Tuck the knot underneath the binding, then grab a bite of the backing of the quilt and then a bite of the binding to complete each stitch.

Continue forming each stitch by bringing the needle in behind each previous stitch and pushing it out ahead of the last stitch. Pull the thread slightly taut as you go.


When you get to the corners, be sure to sew them closed. Take a few stitches on the back to close the miter. Push the needle through to the front, stitch the front of the miter closed, then push the needle to the back again.


When you are near the end of a length of thread, make a knot, then take a stitch through the backing and batting only, pop it through the backing and cut off the excess. Continue in this manner until you’ve sewn down the entire quilt.


Congratulations! You’ve learned how to bind a quilt! You can continue giving your quilts the perfect finishing touch by experimenting with different borders, corners and other finishing techniques!


Making the Binding — Village Bound Quilts

Straight grain, or straight-of-grain is a term used for either the lengthwise grain or the crosswise grain, as it refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric (straight). Usually with binding fabric, straight grain is referring to the crosswise grain.

Bias cut is cut on the bias of the fabric (45-degree angle). Because it’s not cut along the grain it has a lot more stretch, making it ideal for binding projects that have curved edges (like rounded quilt corners). It can be slightly more difficult to cut and can produce more fabric waste when cutting is poorly planned, but that shouldn’t deter you from using this method. Cutting this way can also produce some great results when using striped fabric as binding!

Selvage, or selvedge, is the edge of the fabric that is tightly wound to prevent the fabric weave from unraveling. In solid fabrics, this edge is often fringe-like. Most high-quality cotton prints have the manufacturer, designer & fabric line information printed in the selvage. The selvage of any fabric is usually removed from the fabric when cutting, before sewing and piecing.

Double-fold, also sometimes called French fold, is the sturdiest way to fold your binding  for quilts, especially when they are anticipated to get a lot of use (aka – frequent washing). the binding strip fabric is folded in half, bringing the edges together on one side, resulting in 2 layers of fabric hugging the raw edge of your quilt sandwich.  

Single-fold uses a bias tape maker to fold the edges of binding strip fabric inwards, leaving only 1 layer of fabric along the outermost fold. While the amount of fabric is the same and can be used on either straight cut or bias cut strips, it’s single fold makes it more prone to wear as compared to double-fold.

Tape is just the term used for the continuous length of strips that you sew together to make binding with – basically just a really long piece of fabric.

So you can have cross-grain single-fold binding, or double-fold bias binding, or really any combination of the fabric cut and the fabric fold. Technically we are making double-fold straight-of-grain binding tape when we most commonly make binding . But that’s a mouthful – so we’ll just call it binding. Good? Good! Moving on!

How much binding do I need?

We can figure this out with some simple math – all you need to know is the size of your quilt and the size of binding you’d like to make. You can make quilt binding in any size you’d like, but 2 1/4 (2.25 inches) or 2 1/2″ strips are most common – this will give you a binding width of about 1/4″ on the front and back of your quilt. Using 2 1/2″ strips might be recommended for early beginners, especially if you’re going to be attaching your binding entirely by machine (so that attaching leaves room for 3/8″ instead of strictly 1/4″ seam allowance). But you can make binding in any width you’d like! Here’s how to figure out how much fabric you’ll need for the size binding you choose:

Satin Ribbon Security Blanket Lovey — Knit Paint Sew

A handmade lovely – a.k.a. security blanket – can bring great comfort to a child of any age. I still remember the lovies that my brother and I had as kids – I think we slept with them until we were in our double digits!

After making flannel blanket bundles for a number of friends, I noticed two things: 1) that the kiddos LOVE the silky satin edges, and 2) that I had a lot of leftover satin blanket binding. Not wanting that silky satin binding to go to waste, I decide to make a wonderfully sweet, silky little lovey.

Materials:

  • ~4.5 yards of 2 inch width satin ribbon – cut into 11 strips that are 14” long each. Note: For this project I used leftover 2” blanket binding, which is actually 4” wide when laid flat, so I had to cut it down the middle to form strips 2” wide. If you don’t have leftover blanket binding, you can also just buy 2” width satin ribbon and it will work just as well. You can use one or many colors of ribbon. For my project, I used two colors – pink and white, so I used 84” of white ribbon (6 strips at 14” each) and 70” of pink ribbon (5 strips at 14” each).

  • ~2 yards of satin blanket binding

  • 1/2 yard of flannel fabric

  • Basic sewing supplies, including straight pins, sewing machine, thread, pencil, scissors, etc.

Instructions:

Sew Your Ribbon Strips Together

Take two of your ribbon strips. With right sides facing, pin the strips together along one edge so the wrong sides are facing out. Sew the two strips together along one long edge remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Seam width = 3/8 inch.

Open up so the seam is in the middle between the two strips. Lay shiny side down, and using a hot iron press open the seam so that it lays flat.

Repeat this process nine more times adding additional ribbon strips until you have sewn all the ribbon strips together.

Binding Basics for Quilts, Blankets + Throws

We use binding on many projects here at Sew4Home, and we always get lots of compliments about how nice it looks. We also get lots of questions about how we managed to pull that off! So, we decided to write a comprehensive binding tutorial you can refer to over and over. We cover how to cut your binding fabric, which way to press it, how to join it at the ends, and how to actually sew it to your project. If you’re an “old hand” at the binding biz, this will be a nice refresher. If you’re brand new, we encourage you to take each part of the process step by step. Before you know it, you’ll be an “old hand” too.

We use binding on many projects here at Sew4Home, and we always get lots of compliments about how nice it looks. We also get lots of questions about how we managed to pull that off! So, we decided to write a comprehensive binding tutorial you can refer to over and over. We cover how to cut your binding fabric, which way to press it, how to join it at the ends, and how to actually sew it to your project. If you’re an “old hand” at the binding biz, this will be a nice refresher. If you’re brand new, we encourage you to take each part of the process step by step. Before you know it, you’ll be an “old hand” too.

Of course binding and quilting go together like cinnamon and sugar, but the technique applies to a variety of home decorating projects. Next time you go shopping, keep an eye out; you’ll start to notice binding on all kinds of items, from baby bibs to tote bags to jackets. It’s a great skill to have, and the best way to master it is, as always, practice !

Before you get going, you have some decisions to make

  1. No matter how much binding you need, which depends on the overall size of the item to be bound, the techniques for creating it and attaching are the same. The following steps show you how to cut, prepare and attach what’s known as straight binding. Straight binding can be cut across the fabric (selvedge to selvedge or crossgrain) or along the length of the fabric (parallel to the selvedge or on the lengthwise grain). The photo below shows us setting up for a crossgrain cut.
    NOTE: We used a striped fabric so you could easily see the direction of the crossgrain (horizontal) versus the lengthwise grain (vertical).
  2. To complicate things a little more, there is also what’s known as bias binding. This is cut on a 45° angle from the selvedge. How do you know when to use which binding, straight or bias? If you have a square or rectangle shaped item, like a quilt or throw, you use straight binding. If you have something with a rounded edge, you use bias binding because the bias cut of the fabric allows it to stretch slightly for a nice fit around the curves. In our project tutorials, we will always tell you if we used bias or straight binging. And, we do have a tutorial on the bias variety.
  1. Besides direction, you also need to think about how you’re going to fold and press your binding. You can simply fold binding in half along the entire length, which is called double fold because it’s double the fabric when sewn. Or, you can fold each edge in to the center, which is called single fold; you guessed it, because it’s a single layer of fabric when sewn. So, what’s the basic difference? Double fold binding is thicker to sew due to the layers of fabric, yet stronger and wears well over time. Single fold is easier to sew, due to fewer layers, and is easier to miter at the corners. Deciding which type of fold to use is truly a personal choice, and often depends on your project’s weight and texture. We recommend trying each to see which one works for you.
  2. The photo below shows double fold on the right and single fold on the left.
  1. There’s one more detail we should discuss, and that’s width. You need to decide how much binding you want to “see” around the edge of your project after its completed. In other words, does your project call for a thick or thin binding? You can use small scraps of fabric cut at different widths to “audition” various finished widths visually. For our sample, we wanted a finished reveal of ½”.
  2. To calculate width for single fold, simply multiply the determined width (½” in our example) by 4. So, ½” x 4 = 2″. 
  3. To figure width for a double fold, start with the seam allowance ( we are using ¼”). This must be doubled because the fabric in folded in half (we’re now at ½” in our sample). Then, take the finished reveal you’ve chosen (½” in our sample) and multiply that by four. So the entire story problem for our sample is: ½” + (½” x 4) = 2½”.
  4. For our sample, we are using a 2½” width, double fold, cut on the crossgrain.
  5. We like to leave approximately ¼” of the backing and batting sticking out beyond the edge. This is a fairly common practice in the “quilting world.” It gives a little extra filling for your binding. This extra is assumed in our decision to use 2½” binding.
  6. Okay. Take a little breather and let your brain cool down.
  1. Calculating the fabric needed for your binding will require a little more math (yay!).
  2. Measure your project after you’ve quilted it (if you are making a quilt) and trimmed any excess batting and backing.
  3. Here’s the simple formula: Measure each side. Let’s pretend your project is a rectangular quilt that measures 60″ on each side and 48″ top and bottom. Get your trusty calculator and plug in the following: 60″ + 48″ + 60″ + 48″ = 216″
  4. You need 216″ of binding to get around your quilt. But, you actually need more than this because you have to turn the corners and join the edges together. Add a minimum of 12″. This is a standard “rule of thumb” number; you could add in more, but you should have at least an extra 12″ to work with: 216″ actual size + 12″ extra = 228″
  5. The most common fabric width of decorative cotton (often referred to as quilting weight or quilting cotton) is 44/45″. Therefore, we will assume this is what you are using for your binding. There is normally about 42″ of actual usable fabric after cutting off the selvedge.
  6. To figure out how many strips you need to cut across the fabric, divide the total binding length by the width of fabric.
    NOTE: If you use a different width of fabric, simply adjust the width of the fabric in the calculation. In addition, since a fabric’s selvedge can vary in width, you may also need to adjust the number you use for the actual usable width.
  7. The equation would be: 230″ (total length needed) ÷ 42 (usable width of fabric) = 5.43 strips. Round the number to the next highest whole number, which would be 6 total strips in our sample.
  8. Here’s where your chosen width comes into play. In our sample, we chose 2½” wide strips. All you need is simple multiplication. Remember, we are cutting on the crossgrain!
  9. We had 6 strips x 2½” width = 15″ of fabric. In this example, you would need about a ½ yard of fabric (a half yard is 18″).
  10. Okay. Decisions have been made and fabric has been calculated and purchased. Let’s make quilt binding!
  1. Press your fabric to remove any wrinkles or folds.
  2. Lay your fabric on a flat surface.
  3. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, so the selvedges meet.
  4. Using a quilt ruler, rotary cutter and cutting mat (much better for the task than scissors), cut the strips calculated above (SIX 2½” wide strips in our sample). Don’t cut the fold.
  1. We used a light color fabric with a dark, heavyweight thread so you could see each step clearly. When you make binding, you should select a fabric that coordinates with your quilt top and use a thread color that matches (or is a neutral) so you do not see the stitching.
  2. The idea behind joining is to make the seams in the binding as “invisible” as possible. To do this, it’s best to seam the strips at a 45° angle.
  3. Place one strip on a flat surface, right side up. Place a second strip on top of the first one at a right angle. The ends of each strip should extend beyond each other by about a ½”. Pin in place.
    NOTE: You place these strips ½” beyond each other because you want to be sure to eliminate any of the selvage from being sewn into the seam of the binding. As you remember, we cut our sample strips selvage to selvage.
  4. Mark the angle from corner to corner with a ruler and fabric marking pen or pencil.
  5. Using a straight stitch, sew along the drawn line across the intersection of the two strips.
  6. Trim the seam allowance back to ¼”.
  7. Trim off the little points too.
  8. Continue joining the remaining strips in the same manner until you have one long strip.
  9. Press the seams open where you joined the strips end to end.
  10. From the right side, your seams should look like the picture below.
  11. Because we are using the double fold binding, at this point, we press the entire length of joined binding in half WRONG sides together, matching the raw edges.
  12. If you are using single fold binding. Fold the piece in half as above, then unfold and fold in each long edge to meet in the middle at the crease line (see the examples above).
    NOTE: Remember, your joined length of binding will be longer than you need. Leave that excess until you’re finished attaching the binding. You’ll trim it off later.
  1. Set up your sewing machine for a straight stitch with a longer stitch length due to the layers. If you’re unsure of your settings, test with some layers of scraps.
    NOTE: You can use a regular presser foot, an Even Feed or Walking foot or a Quarter Inch Seam foot. We chose the ¼” Seam foot.
  2. On one 60″ side, and leaving about 6″ loose at the head, pin the binding to the right side of the quilt with raw edges even. In our example, that means the extra ¼” of batting will still be sticking out; just the raw fabric edges are flush.
    NOTE: You always start binding on the side of a project, never at a corner. You’ll see why when it comes time to joining the ends. Also, you may feel compelled to pin the binding all the way around, however, it really works better if you leave the binding hanging loose and guide it into place as you sew.
  3. Sew the binding to the quilt, using a ¼” seam allowance (again, that’s ¼” from the raw fabric edges not the batting). Remember to lock your stitch at the beginning and to leave that 6″ extra length unsewn at the head.
  1. You are doing great! Now it’s time for your first corner. Stop sewing ¼” from the corner.
  2. Pull the quilt out from under the presser foot to the left of the needle. Do not cut the threads.
  3. To create the miter at the corner, bring the binding up, making a diagonal fold at the corner.
  4. Keeping that diagonal fold in place, bring the binding straight down, so there is a straight fold even with the top raw edge and the raw edge of the binding is even with the raw edge on the next side of the quilt. Pin in place. Again, remember the batting is sticking out… it’s the fabric edges that are flush.
  5. You will be able to feel the angled corner fold underneath the binding.
  6. Replace the project under the needle and continue sewing, starting  ¼” from that top folded edge.
  7. From the right side, the corner will look like this.
  8. From the back side, the corner will look like this.

    NOTE: We stopped our seam and pulled out the project sample to show you just the corner. You, on the other hand, would keep going down each side, repeating this process at the remaining three corners.

  1. You’re in the home stretch now!
  2. Continue sewing until you are approximately 12″ from where you started along that first side.
  3. At this point, you need to decide how you will join the edges (yes… there are many decisions in binding).
  4. You can overlap the binding, one end inside the other, or you can sew the binding at an angle just as you did when you joined the strips.
  5. Again, we recommend you try each to see what works best for you.

Overlap method

  1. Fold in the head of the binding ½” (remember you have a 6″ loose head and a 6″ loose tail) and press in place to create a finished end.
  2. With the finished end of the binding head flat, lay the binding tail inside the binding head. Trim excess binding from end so the binding lays nice and flat against the project.
  3. Re-fold the finished end back into position. Pin the overlapped binding to the raw edge of the quilt.
  4. Finish your seam, matching the previous stitching line and making sure the raw edges of the fabric are flush. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Angle method

  1. Place the loose head of the binding flat against the quilt with raw edges even. This is the extra 6″ you left at the beginning.
  2. Place the loose tail of the binding flat against quilt, which means you are laying it over the head of the binding.
  3. Where the tail meets the head, fold the tail back on itself.
  4. From this fold, measure back the same distance as the original cut width of your binding. In our example, that distance is 2½”.
  5. Mark this point with a fabric pencil or pen. Trim any excess on this line.
  6. Pull the ends of the binding away from the edge of the project, and place the ends right sides together at a 90˚ angle.
  7. Mark the angle from the upper corner to the bottom corner, similarly to how you did the original joining of the strips but with all the edges flush rather than extending by ½”.
  8. Take the project back your sewing machine, and with the binding still pulled away from the project, sew the ends of the binding together along this drawn line.

    NOTE: This can be challenging, depending on the size of your project. You will have the weight of the project pulling to the side of your sewing machine. It’s important to work on a large surface so your project has somewhere to rest while you’re completing the binding.

  9. Before trimming, check that your binding fits exactly. It should lay flat and smooth against the edge of the project. If it doesn’t, take the time to rip out your seam, adjust it until it does lay flat and smooth, and restitch. You’ll be glad you took the time to fix it if you need to… I promise.
  10. When you are sure of the fit, trim the seam allowance back to ¼”, just like you did when doing the original joining of the strips.
  11. Re-fold the binding and match the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the quilt. Pin in place.
  12. As above with the overlap method, finish your seam, matching the previous stitching line and making sure the raw edges of the fabric are flush. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
  1. On the front of your project, press the binding flat.
  2. Starting along one side, wrap the folded edge of the binding around to the back of the project, making sure to go beyond the previous stitching line.
  3. Pin the binding in place on the front of the project in the seam. This is also known as “in-the-ditch” of the seam.
  4. At the corners, trim the excess batting and fabric at an angle to reduce the bulk.
  5. When you get to the corners, you’ll find that by bringing the binding up and over, a pretty diagonal miter automatically wants to form on the front of your project.
  6. To create a miter on the back, fold the binding in on one side, making sure you are covering your stitching line. This will create a folded point at the corner. Place a pin on the front to hold the binding in place.
  7. On the back of the quilt, fold the opposite side in the same manner. Bring the points together at the corner, creating a miter on the back.
  8. Pin in place from the front side.
  9. Once your binding is completely pinned all the way around the project, and your corners are mitered, pick a starting point along one side.
  10. Stitch the binding in place “in-the-ditch” of the seam. As you sew, you will catch the folded edge on the back.
    NOTE: We like to use our Janome Ditch Quilting foot for this technique. It has a long guide on the front of the foot that helps you stay in the seam.
  11. Go slowly and carefully so you stay in line with the seam.
  12. As you approach the corners, stop right in the corner and pivot, then continue sewing along the next side.
  13. On the back, your stitching should look like this:
  14. And on the front, it will look like this.
  15. Remember, you can see our thread because we used dark thread on purpose, but when you use matching thread in your real project, you won’t see it at all!
  1. Certain projects may call for the binding to be finished on the back by hand. Which ones you ask? Well, it’s really a matter of “tradition” and personal choice. Certain quilt blocks and patterns are extremely traditional and are designed to be the focal point of the quilt. Bindings on these projects are normally hand stitched on the back.
  2. Some folks may tell you it’s the only way to finish binding, but don’t you be bullied… it’s your choice.
  3. There are a few different ways to do the hand stitched binding. We like to make ours with a blind or slip stitch so you don’t see the stitching at all.
  4. Prepare and sew the binding to the quilt (by machine) in the manner described above.
  5. Wrap the folded edge of the binding to the backside of the quilt, creating the mitered corners, again as we described above.
  6. Thread a hand needle with a thread to match the binding fabric. Knot one end of the thread.
    NOTE: We like to run our thread through beeswax to strengthen the thread for hand sewing and allow it to glide more easily as you stitch.
  7. Starting at a point along one side of the project, guide the needle through the quilt backing and batting, but NOT the quilt top. Go under the fold of the binding and inside the line of machine stitching. Pull the thread taut but not tight.
  8. Create a hand backstitch by feeding the thread back through the same location.
  9. Begin to attach the binding to the back of the quilt by guiding the needle back through where you ended the backstitch. As you go through the backing and batting, catch a tiny bit of the folded edge of the binding about a ¼” from where you started. Pull the thread taut.
  10. Stitch back into the quilt under the binding where you came through the folded edge to start the next stitch. Make sure to maintain the spacing of your stitches; use the machine stitching line as your guide.

    NOTE: As you stitch, keep your hand on the front of the quilt, if you start to go through the quilt top, you will feel the needle start to prick your finger and know it’s time to stop!

  11. Continue in this manner around the entire quilt. Of course, you will have to rethread your needle over and over. Simply tie off your thread each time, like you would if you were hand sewing a button. Plus, because you will be using matching thread, the stitches will seem to disappear between the binding and the back fabric.
  1. Sewing in the “ditch” of the seam can be challenging. Like anything else, the more you practice the technique, the better you will be at catching the fold underneath. If you’re having some trouble, try making your binding a littler wider.
  2. You can also try a different stitch on the front of the quilt, such as a Blind Hem stitch. It’s a unique look that can add to the appearance of the finished edge, and the wider swing makes it easier to catch the back of the binding.
  3. Try using your sewing machine’s decorative stitches to embellish plain fabric, then cut your binding with this stitching centered to be beautiful accent.
  4. Binding is a good opportunity to use leftover cuts of fabric. You can even create patchwork binding by sewing a variety of fabric strips together, then preparing your binding from this collage. It’s a fun finish on a solid quilt.

Contributors

Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Jodi Kelly

How to bind a quilt – the easy peasy guide to quilt edging

So you’ve finished piecing your quilt top, and you’ve basted your quilt sandwich. Go you! Now it’s time for the fun bit! Well, they’re all fun bits really, but we’re especially fond of the finishing stage – binding a quilt. Want to know how to bind a quilt like a pro? This complete guide to quilt edging is for you.

Whether you’re brand new to quilt making and aren’t sure where to start, or it’s been a while and you want a refresher, read on for our easy guide to binding a quilt with mitred corners.

You can bind a quilt in really any fabric from your stash. In this how to guide we’ll show you how to cut your chosen binding fabric into strips, then join them together to make the binding for your quilt with what’s called double-fold binding. Once you’ve made your strips we’ll talk you through how to use them to bind your quilt with double-fold binding. The ‘double’ fold comes when you attach the binding to your quilt and fold it over and back on itself to seecure all your raw fabric edges within the binding.

Before you start binding a quilt, you’ll need to know how to make a quilt sandwich and quilt the layers together – see our guide to quilting for beginners if you’re new to this. Then remove any tacking or pins and deal with thread ends by burying them in the batting. You should now have a quilted sandwich with raw edges all around the edge.Press the quilt sandwich and trim the edges so they are even with the quilt top all round. Check the quilt is right-angled. Now you’re ready to get binding!

Binding a quilt is also known as quilt edging, but whatever you call it, we’re here to help you do it. Don’t forget to browse our range of free quilting patterns for inspiration for different quilts to make with your new skills.

Consider the colours and patterns in your quilt and then select a fabric that will enhance or contrast with these. Think of the binding as your quilt’s frame.

Were here to show you how to bind a quilt

How much binding fabric do I need?

Here’s how to calculate the amount of fabric you need for your quilt binding.

  1. Measure the quilt all round and then add 20in (50cm) extra – you’ll need the excess!
  2. Divide this number by 36 to get the yardage required for your quilt.
  3. Most quilts require ½yd to 5⁄8yd for binding, but check your measurements to be sure.

Your binding needs to be strong and hard-wearing, so when you’re shopping for binding fabric, opt for a 100% cotton fabric that will survive handling.

What do I need to bind a quilt?

  • Fabric: quilting cotton works well for this – we like to pick a contrasting solid shade to our main quilt top. Shop quilt fabric on Etsy.
  • Rotary cutter and cutting mat – these are optional but will make light work of cutting binding strips. Shop quilt tools at John Lewis 
  • Sewing machine: you might like out our favourite sewing machines for quilting.
  • Binding Clips: these are a lot easier to use than pins because they easily clip over the multiple layers used in binding. Buy a pack of 50 on Amazon.
  • Ditch Quilting Foot: For machine-finished binding, this foot will help you achieve a flawless finish by hiding your final seam from the front. Buy it now from John Lewis.
  • Thread: For hand-finishing binding, some invisible thread is a perfect choice, especially if you’re not confident with your stitches. Otherwise, choose a thread that matches the colour of your binding. Stock up with this Gutermann Thread Set (£18.99, Amazon).

How to bind a quilt: video guide

Binding a quilt: step by step guide

This walkthrough is in two stages – firstly we’ll show you how to make binding for a quilt, and then how to bind a quilt with it!

How to put binding on a quilt: joining the ends

Now we’ll show you two ways to start and finish your binding. The traditional method is great for small items, such as mini quilts and coasters, while the seamed method gives you a more uniform finish on longer edges.

Traditional method

To start off, unfold one end of your binding, trim at a 45-degree angle and press under by ½in along the short edge. Align the unfolded raw edge with your quilt and stitch down 3-5in. Refold the binding and continue stitching at the point where you left off.

To finish off, trim the end of the binding so it overlaps the beginning folded edge by about 1in. Tuck this end into the folded binding at the start and pin in place. Finish stitching past the raw edge, making sure you sew down both the start and end of the binding.

Seamed method

Start sewing your binding leaving an unsewn 8in tail. Continue around the quilt, stopping 8in before the start of the binding. Lay one end of binding along the edge of the quilt. Trim the strip at about the halfway point of the unstitched edge, cutting the strip straight.

Lay the remaining end of binding over the top, and mark where the strips meet. Measure the width of the unfolded binding strip, add this to the length, and trim the strip at this point. So if you are using a 2½in strip, the two binding ends should overlap by 2½in.

Unfold the two ends and place right sides together, so the pieces are at right angles to one another. Draw a 45-degree diagonal line across one end and sew along the drawn line. Trim the seam to ¼in and finger press open. Refold your binding and finish attaching to the quilt.

Now try out your new skills

Got the hang of DIY quilt edging with this guide? Now try out our simple placemat and coaster tutorial to have a play around with the binding methods in this post! Or why not try our really easy Half rectangle triangles quilt pattern?

5 top tips for binding a quilt

  1. Use up your stash: Binding is a great way to use up scraps. If you’re making multi-coloured scrap binding, help it to stand out from your main quilt top design by using darker or contrasting tones of fabrics than those of your main quilt fabrics. Audition the fabrics you think you want to use by laying out scraps together on top of your quilt before you start piecing.
  2. Save time and strip-piece: sewing up scrappy multi-coloured binding? speed up your piecing with strip-piecing – here’s how to do strip piecing if you haven’t done it before.
  3. One quilt, two sides: If your quilt back is a distinctly different colour to the front, why not try 2-colour binding? It’s basically reversible so you’ll see one colour on the front and one on the back.
  4. Neaten up your corners: Avoid your binding seams occurring at the corners of your quilt to reduce bulk and make neater mitred corners. A good way to do this is do a dummy run and place your binding around the quilt perimeter to see where the seams will fall before you start to stitch
  5. Give it a seasonal twist: Give Christmas quilts a delightful finishing touch by strip-piecing candy cane effects with two tones – one lighter and darker (red and white looks especially festive)

Satin Binding on a Baby Blanket

One of my friends is about to become a first time grandmother. She’s a quilter and has been sewing like crazy. She knew that I was making a pattern for a baby blanket with satin binding and begged me to show her how to attach it. This tutorial is for her and for all of you who have wondered how to make the binding look neat and professional.

The puppy applique will be found in my Craftsy pattern, “Doggy in the Window” baby blanket.

Finished Measurements:
Approximately 34″ x 40″

·     
2 yards of baby flannel

·     
1 package of satin blanket binding

·     
matching thread

Preparing the Blanket for Binding

1. Prewash two yards of baby flannel in warm water. Prewashing
is essential because the flannel will shrink a lot.

2. Press the flannel and cut it in half.

3. If you are adding an applique, do it now, before you put
the front and back pieces of fabric together.

4. Lay the two flannel pieces wrong sides together on
a cutting mat. The right sides of the fabric will be facing out.

5. Cut through both layers with a rotary cutter to square up
the sides. You can usually get a rectangle of about 34” x 40”.

6. Pin the pieces together and stay-stitch around the
outside edges of the flannel. You could zigzag or serge the edges instead if
you like.

Satin blanket binding usually comes in package containing 4
3/4 yards of 2-inch single fold satin. It is found in most fabric stores on the
same display case that contains rickrack, seam binding, and bias tape.

When you examine the bias tape you’ll see that one folded
side is slightly wider than the other.

This wider side will go on the back of the blanket.

The cut ends of the binding fray very easily, so care will
need to be taken to prevent your binding fraying apart at any seams.

                                                    

1. Lay your unbound blanket on a flat surface. (I use an
ironing board.)

2. Open the binding and slid it under one side of the
blanket. Make sure the wider side of the binding is against the back of the
blanket.
Leave about an inch of binding overlapping the corner.

3. Snug the blanket right up against the fold all along this
side.

4. Fold the blanket binding up and over the front of the blanket. Pin in
place.

5. Set your machine to make a wide zigzag stitch. On my machine
the width was set at 5 and the stitch length was 1.4.

6. Do not start stitching right at the corner. Begin about
6 inches in from that. You will need to keep that much the binding unattached
for creating a neat corner seam later on.

7. Overlap the zigzag stitch so that it falls partly on the
satin and partly on the flannel.

8. Stitch all the way up to the next corner. Lift the needle
and cut the thread.

9. Open the binding. Fold at a right angle so that the
blanket edge lies snugly up against the fold down the center of the binding.

10. Align the binding on the back first. Fold it into a neat, mitered corner that comes exactly to the edge of the stitched binding. This is
really quite easy, but you may need to manipulate it a bit to get it just
right. Pin in place.

11. Turn the blanket to the front and lay on a flat surface.
Once again, tuck the blanket edge right up against the fold of the binding and
pin in place all along the edge.

12. Fold the front segment up to make a mitered corner like
you did on the back. Make sure that the front and back folds are in exactly the
same place on the corner. Again, this may take a bit of maneuvering. Pin.

13. Begin sewing at the top of the
mitered edge. Backstitch a few stitches, then sew forward to the edge of the binding.
Make sure your stitches overlap both edges of the binding. If the front and
back folds are aligned, the stitches will catch both sides of the back fold
just like they do on the front.

14. Turn the blanket and stitch down the next side in the
same way you stitched the first side.

15. Continue in this manner stitching sides and turning
corners until you reach the last unfinished side. You will be putting a hidden
seam in this last corner after you attach the two ends of the binding.

16. Stitch along the fourth side until you are about 6
inches from the end. Backstitch, cut the stitches and place the quilt on a
cutting mat.

Note: You will be connecting the two ends
of the binding, the end on the first side you attached and the end on the last
side you attached.

17. Fold this last section of binding back out of the way so
you can work with the binding on the side that you first attached to the quilt.

18. Make sure the blanket edge is snugged up against the
fold in the binding. Now, cut the end of the binding 1/4 inch beyond from the
side of the blanket with a rotary cutter.

19. Fold this segment of binding out of the way and trim the
remaining edge 1/4 inch beyond the side of the blanket.

20. Open up both ends of the binding. Bring the cut sides
together and pin.

21. Stitch the ends together with a 1/4 inch seam. Use a
zigzag stitch to finish the edge so that it won’t fray out in the laundry after
it’s all finished. Press the seam to one side.

22. Working on the last side you added binding to, pin the
binding in place. The seam will fall exactly on the edge of the blanket.

23. Zigzag stitch the rest of the binding on this side of
the blanket. Start where you left off with a backstitch and sew to the end in
the same way you stitched to the corner edge on the other three corners.

24. Open the binding and fold
it to miter the corners exactly like all other corners. The only difference is
that this time a seam will be tucked away on the inside.

25. Miter the corners as
before and pin.

26. Stitch the mitered folds,
turn the blanket and stitch along this final stretch back on the first side of
the blanket that you worked on.

27. Sew right up to and just
over the beginning zigzag stitches. Backstitch.

Cut the threads and your
blanket is beautifully bound with perfect stitching on the front and on the
back!

Happy Stitching!!

90,000 Blankets and Pillows: Care Tips

The durability of blankets and pillows depends on their quality and how you take care of them. We’ve put together some simple tips for caring for your duvets and pillows so they’ll last you for years.

  • Down comforters and pillows should be shaken every day to maintain the optimum density and elasticity of the fill.
  • Do not vacuum or knock out blankets or pillows, as this may damage the filling.
  • If you are used to making your bed blanket, duvets and pillows will sag slightly as moisture fills the air.To make the filler light and airy again, dry blankets and tennis ball pillows to dry.

Why wash blankets and pillows?

Washing will help extend the life of your products. Down and feathers stick together over time. This can make the blanket appear thinner. Wash your comforter 1-2 times a year to avoid this. Don’t wash your comforters more than 4 times a year. Washing your duvet too often can cause premature wear.We recommend washing your pillows 2 times a year. It is best to wash blankets and pillows at a temperature of 60 ° C: at this temperature, living organisms harmful to humans (for example, dust mites) die.

How to wash duvets and pillows with natural or synthetic fill?

Washing a blanket is not a quick process, so set aside more time right away. It may take 6-8 hours for the blanket to wash and dry. Be sure to read the advice on the label before washing.

  1. Start by checking the seams. Make sure there are no holes in the case. Please note that the duvet may shrink when washed.
  2. Wash the comforter and pillow separately or in the large washing machine.
  3. Use a detergent without enzymes (enzymes) for blankets and pillows with natural fillings. Enzymes remove natural grease from feathers and down, destroying their insulating properties. Generally, you can use a detergent for wool on items with natural fillers.For quilts and pillows with synthetic filling, a regular detergent will work.
  4. Wash at 60 ° C and spin at low speed.
  5. Dry the duvet / pillow in the dryer along with two or three tennis balls or so-called drying balls. Tennis balls will help distribute the filler evenly and avoid clumps by making the garment feel airy.
  6. While drying the blanket, shake it every 15-20 minutes. This will also help spread the filler evenly over the blanket and make it lighter.
  7. Allow blanket to dry completely before use. If you’re drying your blanket or pillow outside, put it in the shade. Sunlight can erode the fabric of the cover, resulting in small holes.
  8. When the duvet is dry, we recommend that you ventilate it outside or put it in a dryer with cold air. This will ensure optimal distribution of feathers and down.
  9. If you want to make sure that the blanket is completely dry, weigh it before washing and after it dries.If the blanket weighs more than before washing, then there is still water in it and you need to dry it out.

How to wash foam or latex pillows and duvets

Foam filler must not be washed. However, some covers are possible. The foam pad can be wiped clean with a damp warm cloth, then wipe the pillow dry immediately with a dry towel or other cloth.

The latex pillow can be washed in a full washing machine at a maximum speed of 1000 rpm, after which it must be dried in a tumble dryer.The pillow must remain in the cover at all times.

When should I change my blanket or pillow?

Pillow and duvet life can vary greatly. We recommend replacing the blanket every 5-10 years depending on wear and tear. While the pillow can only last about 2 years, as it is more exposed during sleep and sweat penetrates into it more easily.

How to understand when it’s time to buy a new blanket or pillow:

  • If the pillow turns yellow;
  • If you sweat a lot during sleep, you need to change your pillow and blanket more often;
  • If, after drying, the filler becomes lumpy and does not spread evenly over the product.

How to care for a wool, bamboo or silk blanket?

Taking care of the blanket correctly

A blanket can last for 5 years or 15. It all depends on the quality of the filler and how it is looked after. We will give you some tips to help your blanket last as long as possible.

The content of the article

  1. General recommendations
  2. Camel wool
  3. Sheep wool
  4. Down
  5. Silk
  6. Bamboo fiber
  7. Holofiber and artificial fluff
  8. Conclusion
  9. Catalog

General recommendations

  1. Do not make your bed as soon as you get up, let it air for at least half an hour.In a dream, all people sweat, at least a little, and you need to let this moisture evaporate from the blanket.
  2. Change the duvet cover once a week. If the blanket has a dirty duvet cover, over time, the dirt will spread to the duvet itself and can be difficult to remove. It’s still easier to wash a duvet cover.
  3. Only synthetic filled blankets can be stored in plastic vacuum bags. Wool, silk, fluff must breathe, ventilate, so store them either in cotton bags, or without them at all.In a folded natural blanket, you must put a moth repellent.
  4. Any blankets should be ventilated periodically. This removes dust and excess moisture from them.
  5. The blanket can be vacuumed from time to time. Most covers and fillers are breathable, so a vacuum cleaner removes dust not only from the outside, but also from the inside of the blanket.
  6. Inexpensive models with artificial filler are best suited for giving. Holofiber and artificial swan down easily tolerate changes in temperature and humidity, while expensive natural down can become damp and deteriorate.
  7. Manufacturers often allow the blanket to be washed in the washing machine, but prohibit wringing. How can you dry it in this case in a city apartment? After washing, place the blanket in the bathroom on an elevated position. For example, a chair or a basin, let the water drain. Then wrap the blanket in a towel, it will absorb excess moisture. Dry in a household dryer.
  8. Ironing some models is strictly prohibited (for example, from down), others are simply undesirable (for example, from holofiber).Therefore, leave the iron for other items, and do not iron the blanket.

Each filler requires an individual approach to cleaning.

Camel wool

  1. Camel wool can usually be machine washed or by hand using wool products. Gel products are preferred over powdered products. The gel dissolves better in water and rinses out more easily.
  2. Sometimes it is worth giving to chem. cleaning not only models that cannot be washed, but also those that can.Professional dry cleaning removes dirt better than washing at home.
  3. Dry on a horizontal surface to prevent the product from stretching.

Main hazard

If the washing temperature is violated, the blanket may shrink. If you wash it not with a specialized product, but with an ordinary powder, it will not rinse out and can cause allergies.

With proper care, a camel wool blanket will last over 10 years. When stored in a cupboard, lay with a moth repellent.

Sheep wool

  1. You cannot wash yourself, only dry cleaning.

  2. Must be regularly ventilated and vacuumed.

Main hazard

A sheep wool blanket must be carefully looked after – vacuum cleaned, ventilated. Some companies’ models can be washed, but this is rare. Most require dry cleaning. Improper care can cause an unpleasant odor and it will be difficult to get rid of it.

When the winter blanket is put away in the closet for the summer, it must be covered with moth repellent.

Down

  1. Cannot be washed, dry cleaning only.
  2. Do not store or operate in rooms with high humidity. Down absorbs moisture from the air and deteriorates.
  3. Even if the blanket looks good, it still needs to be cleaned regularly to prevent pests.

Main hazard

Down is a natural material that pests love.Therefore, regular cleaning is especially important for duvets.

Pooh is afraid of water. If the blanket gets wet, it should be cleaned immediately and dried well, for example with a hairdryer.

Down absorbs any smell – both good and bad. You can use this property to your advantage and soak the blanket with a pleasant, soothing scent. More often than not, the duvet absorbs the unpleasant smell of sweat. Use thick duvet covers and change them often to prevent this from happening.

Silk

  1. It is better to clean silk in a trustworthy dry cleaner that uses non-aggressive but strong detergents.Silk can become hard when cleaned with an unsuitable product.
  2. Beat from time to time so that the filler is filled with air and warms better.

Main hazard

Silk absorbs water, just like down. Unlike a downy blanket, when wet, a silk blanket does not deteriorate, but its thermal insulation properties deteriorate. If the blanket seems to be warming you less, it may be damp and needs to be dried.

No heavy objects should be placed on the silk blanket; a depression will form.

Bamboo fiber

  1. Machine washable.
  2. It can be used in any conditions, for example, in an unheated country house with large temperature and humidity drops.

Main hazard

Over time, the bamboo blanket can become caked and must be shaken up regularly.

Holofiber and artificial fluff

  1. Machine washable.
  2. It can be used in any conditions, it is not afraid of temperature and humidity changes.

Main hazard

Holofiber consists of synthetic fibers in the form of a spiral. Automatic spinning at high speeds can damage the structure of the material, so it is advisable to spin it by hand after washing. The fibers of the artificial swan down are covered with silicone so as not to damage the coating, do not squeeze at high speeds. Use a delicate detergent when washing.
Regular exertion can create a dent in one place (for example, if you make the bed and sit on it for a long time).Try to lay the blanket so that different parts of it are exposed to the load.

Output

For a blanket to serve for a long time, you need to properly care for it, regularly ventilate, clean, change the blanket cover and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Call 8 800 700-05-34
and we will answer all your questions.

90,000 Small tulips baby patchwork 2021

Start with a Small Tulip Quilt

The Little Tulips baby quilt is made from a patchwork assortment of blocks sewn with my Lovely Little Tulips quilts.

Tulips quilt blocks finish at 8 “x 8” and are positioned on a point in a baby quilt. The background of the box is white, and the white inner border expands the background, giving the impression that the tulips are floating. The adjusting and corner triangles are also white, and a colorful border is drawn around the outer edges of the blanket.

Oversized settings and corner triangles can replace the inner border if you prefer. Cut off the parent blocks (see instructions on p.2) 2-3 inches more than necessary to create a floating look.

I think this baby blanket looks best when all backgrounds are the same. If you are using sticky notes for backgrounds (in boxes and other areas), I recommend that you keep their color value (contrast) very similar.

Tulip Blocks are ideal if you want to make a patchwork quilt but change the look however you like. I have included yards totals for anyone who would like to make each of the 18 quilt blocks from the same four fabrics.

How to print templates and tutorials

Variants for baby blanket

Lower some of the tulip blocks and replace them with 8-1 / 2 “x 8-1 / 2” white squares if you don’t have a lot of waste. One option is to make a total of 12 tulip blocks and use simple squares to replace the blocks that end up next to each other in groups of two.

Increase the background brightness if you replace the blocks with simple squares.

Finished size with two borders: approx. 47 “x 60”

Trim Blocks for Quilt

For 18 blocks you will need:

Outer petals

  • (18) 2-1 / 2 “x 8-1 / 2” rectangles
  • (18) 2-1 / 2 “x 6-1 / 2” rectangles

Middle row of petals

  • (18) 2-1 / 2 “x 6-1 / 2” rectangles
  • (18) 2-1 / 2 “x 4-1 / 2” rectangle

Center Bud

  • (18) squares 2-1 / 2 “x 2-1 / 2”

Block Background

  • (90) squares 2-1 / 2 “x 2-1 / 2”
  • (18) 2-1 / 2 “x 4-1 / 2” rectangle
  • Only 2 yards if you plan on using one fabric for the background, inner border and setting triangular areas

Refer to the template linked in the first paragraph above for block assembly instructions.

Quilt Yards with 18 Equal Quilt Blocks

Background, Inner Border, Component Setting

  • 2 yards (same as for quilt if all backgrounds are the same)

Outdoor unit Petals

Indoor unit Petals

Flower buds

Other materials for everyone

Outer border

  • 5/8 yards for cross grain boundaries (side boundaries should be trimmed)
  • OR , 1-5 / 8 yards for longitudinal grain boundaries (you will have some leftover fabric)
  • About Grain Cloth

support

  • Panel about 57 “x 70” (or as needed for planned quilting)
  • How to make a quilt

Batting

  • Same as back

binding

  • Approx.240 inches continuous double binding
  • The yard depends on the width of the strips.I would probably use just under 1/2 yard.
  • How to make continuous tie strips for quilts

Sew A Small Blanket Of Small Tulips

Sew quilted blocks

  1. Use the link on page 1 to make 18 tulip quilt blocks. Each completed block should measure 8-1 / 2 “x 8-1 / 2”.

Cut corner and set triangles

Corners and alignment triangles are cut from large “parent” fabric squares, but they are cut differently.

  • Corner triangles are cut so that a straight grain of fabric runs parallel to the short edges.
  • The dowel triangles used in the remaining holes at the end of the diagonal rows are trimmed so that the straight grain runs parallel to the longest edge.

It is always best to have straight grain edges on the outside of the quilting components and the quilted top itself. Learn more about customization and corner triangles and find instructions for cutting triangles to fit larger blocks.

Cut corner triangles from background fabric

  • Cut (2) 6-5 / 8 “x 6-5 / 8” squares, then cut each in half diagonally.

Cut alignment triangles from the background fabric

  • Cut (3) 12-5 / 8 “x 12-5 / 8” squares, then cut each in half twice diagonally.
  • Two of the triangles will not be used unless you make a larger quilt. Mark the longest edge of each to define a straight grain, and use the triangles later to cut out other areas you may need.

Collect Baby Blanket Tulips

  1. Arrange the 18 quilt blocks, corner triangles, and alignment triangles as shown above. A quilted wall or other flat surface makes layout easy. See Page 3 for four different layout options.
  2. Check the alignment of your blocks and triangles.
  3. If you are making a patchwork quilt, leave the room for a while. Look at the location of the blocks when you return.Should tulip blocks be moved around for better color balance? Rearrange the blocks until you are happy with the layout.
  4. Sew the blocks and place the triangles in each diagonal row together. The pointed ends of the triangles extend beyond the edges of the block, creating small dog-ear triangles that you can trim off. Use straight pins to prevent misalignment of aligned blocks.
  5. Do not sew the corner triangles yet.
  6. Press to set seams for each row.
  7. Press the seam allowances that attach the triangles to the triangles. Press in seam allowances between blocks in adjacent rows in opposite directions.
  8. Join rows by gently inserting seams for a perfect match.
  9. Center the long edge of the corner triangle with the quilt corner and sew. Repeat to sew all corners. Push the seams towards the triangles.
  10. The alignment and corner triangles are always trimmed slightly more than necessary, but the triangles used in this blanket are very close to their true size.Remove tiny excess as needed, but be careful not to trim the quarter-inch seam allowance that surrounds the blanket.

Sew Border

  1. Measure the boundaries as described in my instructions for a straight boundary.
  2. Use inner stripes 1-1 / 2 “wide for the inner border. First add the top and bottom borders. The side borders should be split if you are using transverse grainy stripes.
  3. Measure again before sewing the outside border in 3-1 / 2-inch strips.Sew the top and bottom borders first, then cut the side edges to get the length you want.
  4. Press the top of the quilt.

Ready to sew quilt

  1. Mark the top of the quilt for quilting if necessary.
  2. Sandwich quilt top with batting and backing.
  3. Bast to freeze the layers. Use a technique that is appropriate for the type of quilting you planned. Basting options include adhesive products for basting, threading and basting with safety pins for machine quilting
  4. Quilt.Remove excess batting and backing and tie the edges with a simple double binding. Baby quilts tend to be washed frequently – one-time tying is usually not durable enough for quilts.

Small Tulip Arrangements

Each of the layout options shown on this page is made up of four tulip quilted blocks.

Mockups probably won’t work for a baby quilt, but could be used for a slightly larger project.

Treat each group of four as one 16-1 / 2 “x 16-1 / 2” quilted block (unfinished). Experiment with your own layouts to create a unique quilt.

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