Blanket binding by the roll: Blanket Binding | Etsy


Binding a Quilt Using The Classic Rollover


This is a great article covers how to bind a quilt using the classic rollover. It is easier and more effective than you might think. Read how.

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Binding a Quilt Using The Classic Rollover

By Becky Jorgensen

This article covers how to bind a quilt using the classic rollover. I know, you might think that this is a cop-out, but really it is truly a bind and looks like a bind — on the front. (hee hee)

If anyone is stuck on bindings out there- this is for you! This is really a pretty quick way of doing it and great for beginners.


1) Before quilting, you need to make sure that your back is LARGER than your front!! This is the only way that this type of binding will work. You should always have extra on the sides when quilting anyways, but just in case, check.


2) After quilting, you need to trim those edges. The TOP of the quilt and the batting need to be trimmed to the edge of the top of the quilt. Scissors are the best here. You need to especially make sure that the back does not sneak into that scissor line and get snipped. (I really hate it when that happens.) You want to be cutting ONLY the TOP and the BATTING here. NOT THE BACK!!!


3) Trim the back. Now you can use a super long ruler with your rotary cutter and trim the back. Take your ruler and measure 3/4 inch past the top and be consistent on this! It helps the front look nice. Do this on all four edges.


4) Now we make the binding. Take that 3/4 inch extra back and fold it. Line the raw edge right up to the edge of the top and batting edge.


5) Fold once more. It will fold onto the top of the quilt and be 1/4 inch past the edge.


6) Pin, hold or clip into place. Now, here is where I cheat. I have been doing the binding for too many years to mention, so I can just whip it over to the machine and get that thing done in no time. No pinning or clipping for me. I know how to keep it in place and make it behave. You may notice this is very similar to rolling the edge over on a blanket and making it a nice edge.


7) Sew that edge down. Take it to the sewing machine and sew right along that edge. You don’t want to be so close you are constantly jumping off and missing it, but not so far in it looks like a rookie was doing it. Hey, rookies become pros, so don’t give up.


As an alternative, you could hand sew that down if you would like. After you fold, fold and pin or clip in place; sit and stitch it down.

A little note on corners: Corners can be tricky. This is the way I do them and I get a nice mitered corner on the top.


Stop sewing at least 1 inch before the end of the side you are stitching down. This will give you enough room to fold over the next side and make that corner look nice.

Fold that next side CORNER in a triangle.


Fold the edge until it meets the edge of the top and batting edge, just like above. Then fold it again so it overlaps the top 1/4 inch.


Continue sewing along that edge to finish the binding and then —keeping your needle in the down position AND on top of the next side that you just folded nicely— turn the corner to the next side.


Finish sewing and folding and mitering the binding until you have done all 4 sides. Isn’t that quick and wonderful?

Anyone have any questions or suggestions or hints that you would like to share? Does anyone oppose doing it this way? Leave a comment and let us know.


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Check out the most popular tool on QuiltingHub. Use the search ‘Map Of Resources’ or the ‘Resources Trip Planner’ to the right (or below).




The layer in the middle of a quilt sandwich between the Top and Backing layers consisting of wool, polyester, blends, silk, or cotton.

Same As: Stuffing, Filling, Wadding, Filler


Binding is used as both a noun and a verb. As a noun it is the fabric that’s used to cover the raw edges of the quilt sandwich after it’s quilted. This edging fabric is referred to as the Binding (noun). As a verb it is the process of putting on this fabric, and it referred to as Binding a Quilt.

Raw Edge

An unfinished fabric edge of a piece of fabric or a quilt block. For applique, an edge which has not yet been turned under with stitching.

Rotary Cutter

A very sharp tool that looks like a pizza wheel which is capable of cutting through multiple layers of fabric.


A heavy plastic measuring guide that can come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

System Admin

Binding a quilt with the quilt back



I made a doll quilt before Christmas and realized I’d never posted a tutorial on this quick and easy binding method.  Since I know a lot of you are beginners…this is a really great way to dip your toes into binding a quilt.  I especially love it for small things like hot pads, table toppers, or a mini quilt.

1.  Baste your quilt.  Normally I would cut the batting the exact same size as the quilt top…but in these pictures using this method was an afterthought.  Believe me though…it’s much much easier to start with the batting the same size as the quilt top!



2.  Quilt like normal…except make sure none of your stitches go into the batting.  Start and stop all of your quilting stitches on the quilt top and backstitch.




3.  Carefully cut the batting away (if it was a bit larger than the quilt top).  This is tricky if you’ve quilted to the edge…which is why I recommend keeping your batting the exact same size as your quilt top before you start.  I’ve cut through many backings by accident doing this!



4.  Trim the backing fabric, leaving 1” around all sides of the quilt top.




5.  Start anywhere, and fold the binding over halfway…



…and then in half again, and pin.  You can do this on your ironing board and press it as you go…it makes it very simple.  Fold all the way down to the next edge.




6.  When you get to a corner, fold the corner up like so…



…then fold the next edge in half…




…and in half again to make a nice mitered corner.  Pin it in place.  You might have to play with the corner a bit, but once you actually do this it will make sense.


Continue until you’ve folded and pinned the binding around the whole quilt.




7.  Sew it down using a walking foot, right along the edge of the binding. Sew to the corner and leave the needle in the fabric as you lift the presser foot and turn to go down the next edge.  Easy as pie.




Now there are a couple of reasons I don’t love this method:


1.  It’s hard to square up the quilt and keep the edges nice and straight.  So I only use this on small things.


2.  You have to plan so your backing fabric will also look great as your binding fabric.


3.  If you quilt to the edge of your quilt top…you’re going to see it in the binding of the quilt on the back.  I normally wouldn’t quilt to the edge using this method and instead quilt 1” away from the edge or so…but it was an afterthought with this little quilt.





Shop Blanket Binding Ribbons Online

Can I purchase blanket binding from Spotlight?

Yes, you can. Blanket Binding can help you to create a neat and professional finish when making blankets, throws and rugs. Stop materials from fraying, with our polyester blanket binding in a wide range of different colours to suit your handcrafted creation. Shop now for fabulous deals across our textiles range!

How do I purchase blanket binding from Spotlight?

To purchase blanket binding from Spotlight, shop online and follow the instructions right through to check out. We accept all major payment methods, including Visa, MasterCard and PayPal and we will deliver right to your door. See here for more information regarding delivery costs and times. You can also buy blanket binding one of our nationwide stores. We have everything that you need to create your own beautiful blankets in store, and one of our team will be more than happy to help you in any way that they can.

How is Blanket Binding sold at Spotlight?

At Spotlight, fabrics are sold by the metre, so that you can order exactly how much you need for your desired project. We endeavour to always cut our orders in one piece, however, due to the size of the rolls provided by manufacturers, this cannot always be guaranteed. Unfortunately, as a result, if you do make an order that is over 5m, it is not likely to be in one continuous piece.

How do I use blanket binding?

Blanket binding is the perfect way to finish of a homemade blanket, whether you are making a gift for a new addition to the family, or perhaps just a snuggly thick blanket for cuddles on the couch. As you place your blanket binding on a flat surface, you will notice that one edge is slightly shorter than the other and this is the edge you want to face you. Sandwich your material between the binding strips, and pin it into position.

Set your machine, we recommended a 5mm-wide zigzag stitch, ensuring that you are catching both long binding edges with the stitches. Do not forget, to set your machine for a heavyweight fabric, and sew until you have reached approximately 3 &frac12 – inches from the edge. You can then fold the corners around and pin, before stitching, mitring the corners as you reach them. Sewing thicker fabrics such as fleece can dull your needles, and we recommend that you change these regularly.

What other products do I need to make my own blanket?

That depends on what you are hoping to make a blanket with and the style of blanket you are looking for. Check out our range of terry towelling and fleece, and make a beautiful new blanket to give as a gift to congratulate a new baby. Or, create a cute, patterned blanket with one of our vibrant and colourful designs. If crocheting is your favourite past time, crochet your own blanket and then finish with this binding is a matching or complementary colour. If you are an adept sewer, you can be as creative as you like, however, a blanket is also a great way to get to grips with some basic sewing skills or a new machine for those who are learning the craft. Or perhaps you could knit your blanket and use this as edging to create a thick woollen wrap that will keep you toasty in the winter.

Is there anything else I need to remember?

If you purchasing our selection of blanket binding online, please remember that the reproduction of colours in fabrics may differ due to monitor calibration. We try to match our colours and patterns as close to the image shown on your screen as possible, but we cannot always guarantee a 100% match.

The Easiest Cheat for Binding a Quilt

This Fall has been filled with quilt making projects and outings for us. We started off with the super easy and adorable cheater quilt, made quilt binding, and took a trip to the Quilt Market. Today we have a quilt project brought to you by Rae from Made by Rae for easy quilt binding.

Rae is always sewing up new projects like the cutest baby tights, the dapper dillingers, and the prettiest chevron purse. She is here to show all of you the Cheater Quilt Bind-Off. Intrigued? I thought so. Rae will take you through the step-by-step tutorial for using the back of your quilt for an easy quilt binding.

This is an easy quilt binding tutorial to show you how to use the fabric on the back of a quilt to bind it off.  Most quilts have a separate strip of binding that goes around the outside of the quilt. Here I’ll show you how to take the backing and fold it over the edge of the quilt to finish it. This works best for small baby or doll quilts.  The Crayon Box Quilt Tutorial for the quilt top used for the photos in this tutorial was first posted by me for Sew Mama Sew. The quilt pictured above is the Storytime Squares Quilt which is available as a free pattern download/tutorial on my blog.

Step 1: After quilting the layers of your quilt together, trim the batting along the outside of the quilt right to the edge of the quilt top.

Step 2: Trim backing (the yellow plaid fabric in my photos) to ONE INCH all the way around the quilt.

Step 3: Starting near a corner and working clockwise around the quilt, fold the backing in half so that its raw edge is lined up with the edge of the quilt top (it will now be 1/2″ wide).  In the photo below, I have folded the edge on the left:

Step 4: Fold backing one more time along the edge of the quilt top so that it overlaps the quilt top by 1/2″.  Pin in place.

Step 5: Mark a diagonal line at the corner.  The base of the line should start where the corner of the quilt top is (under the backing) and end 1″ from the corner along the raw edge.

Step 6: Fold backing along line

Step 7: Fold the backing in half again (I drew a line in the first photo with marker so you can see where) to line up raw edge with edge of quilt top.

Step 8: Fold backing over again at the quilt top edge so that it again overlaps the quilt top by 1/2.” Repeat this method all the way around the quilt until you have the entire quilt backing folded and pinned.

Step 9: Stitch close to edge of backing around entire quilt to finish.

In the photo above, you can see that your quilting lines will be visible past the stitching for the binding since they go all the way to the edge of the quilt top. As long as my stitching blends in with the quilt backing, I don’t sweat this too much, but if you don’t like how this looks you can pull out those threads and knot them where you want them to end using a needle.

Ta-daaaah!  Finished quilt!

This is genius! Make sure to stop by Made by Rae for more exciting tutorials and patterns.

Love quilting? Make a quilted monogram, or try our Plus Sign Quilt Block Throw Pillow, or our more advanced Arrow Quilt Block Pillow. Follow us on Pinterest for more sewing inspiration.

by Pretty Prudent

Binding a Quilt: a Step by Step Tutorial

Binding a quilt is the final step in finishing. Before you bind, you need to somehow “quilt” your quilt. This means to attach the front and back, with batting in between. I usually machine quilt (or have someone else do it) my quilts these days. There are good tutorials for that here, here, and here. If you are going to machine-quilt you should use batting like Warm & Natural or Hobb’s Heirloom. I usually use a poly-cotton blend.

If you are going to hand quilt you need to use a lighter batting or your wrists will hate you.

Once your quilting is finished you are ready to bind the quilt.
First step is to trim your excess batting. I personally like to trim right to the quilt’s edge. Using a long quilter’s ruler and your rotary blade will give you the best results.

To finish this 42″ x 42″ baby quilt you will need 168″ of continuous binding. (In this post I’m going to show you the easiest way to accomplish that first – using straight-cut binding. We’ll discuss bias-cut binding in a little bit. )

If you need more binding fabric for a bigger quilt, find the perimeter measurement (outside measurement in linear inches) for your quilt and divide that number by 42. (42″ being the width of the fabric you are cutting from.) That is the number of strips you will need. If the answer is 7.6833 – you will need 8 strips. So you need 8 strips at 2.5″ wide, so you need a total of 20″ (just over half a yard.) Does that make sense?

Fabric requirements for this baby quilt is 10″ (just over a 1/4 of a yard.) If your quilt store is nice, you could ask if they’ll cut you 10″. If not, ask for 3/8 yard.
You need to cut FOUR 2 1/2″ strips along the width of the fabric. (To cut strips from the end of a piece of yardage, make sure that you line up the fold of the fabric along a straight line or edge of the mat. This way when you cut your 2 1/2″ strips, they will be straight- not v-shaped.)

Trim the selvage ends off the strips, match right sides together.and sew them together end to end to make one long strip. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance.

This time you want to press your seams open.Then fold the entire strip in half lengthwise and press.

Then take your strip and starting in the middle of one side of the FRONT of the quilt, leaving about 4 inches unpinned, pin your strip to the edge – with raw edges of the binding strip next to the raw edge of the quilt. (Pinning the binding before hand will make your sewing much faster and keep your quilt edge from getting wavy.)

When you get to a corner, put a pin in at the corner at a 45 degree angle.

Fold strip up at that same 45 degree angle

and fold back down again matching the folded edge with the edge of the quilt. Continue to pin.

You should have a little triangle flap between two 45 degree-angled pins. This is called “mitering your corners.” Pretty nifty, huh? This is going to be a snap to sew and will look so fancy when you’re done!
When the strip gets back around to the beginning fold the ends down so that the strips meet-up. Press with your iron to make a crease at both folds.

Trim both ends to about 1/4″.

Bring the quilt back to the machine, pin ends and sew together on the pressed crease.

Press that final seam open, fold in half like the rest of the binding and pin raw edges to the raw edge of the quilt. Now you’re ready to sew the binding to the quilt.
Starting in the middle of one of the sides, sew the binding to the quilt using the edge of your presser foot (1/4″ seam allowance) as your guide.

I would highly recommend a walking foot at this point as it will make your edge a little nicer, but if this is your first quilt or you don’t plan on making a lot of them, a walking foot can be a pricey investment. Your regular foot will work well-enough.
When you get to the corner sew right up to the first corner pin. This should be about 1/4″ away from the edge of the quilt. Lift the foot and needle and turn the quilt. You don’t need to break the thread. *Important* Now, flip the little triangle flap so it lies the other direction. (See photo)
Begin sewing the next side at the very edge and continue with the 1/4″ seam allowance. (I know, some of you are panicking that I left my pins in. I just do that and seem to not break too many needles.)
When you have finished sewing all four sides, fold the folded edge of the binding over to the back of the quilt and pin it down, using those same pins. (You could also use those metal clips that look like hair clips if you don’t like the idea of hauling something around that could potentially impale you.)

Now you can begin to see what a pretty, crisp edge a double binding makes.

The corners on the back should automatically miter – looking like this.

Now it is hand sewing time. Please don’t get scared by this. It is so much easier and faster than you think – just put in a good movie, do some mindless sewing, and you’re done in no time – especially on this little baby quilt. This is another reason I pin (or clip) all at once before I start sewing. Makes the work so much faster.

(For this part of the demonstration I used white thread so you could see what’s happening. When I bound the quilt for real, I used brown thread to hide my stitches.)

Tie a knot at one end of your thread and pull through the backing fabric, under your folded-down binding, then bring the needle through the very bottom edge of the bias strip and tack it down on the backing fabric, right underneath where the needle came through. Then slide the needle through the backing fabric, behind the binding strip bringing the needle out the bottom edge again. This creates a blind stitch. Repeat!

Continue the blind stitch catching down the mitered corner as well.

This is how it will look using matching thread.

Now lets talk about bias binding.
Bias binding is made from 2 1/2″ strips cut on a 45 degree angle. There are lots of tutorials for cutting bias binding like here and here.

Technically, bias binding is a more durable binding because the grain of the fabric is running diagonally in stead of parallel to the edge of the quilt. (Don’t worry if it doesn’t make sense, just trust me on this one.) It also has more stretch – good for scalloped or rounded borders. (But for this reason, a bias binding does much better with a walking foot.)
It also looks nice with strips and checks.

Bias cut strips will have edges with a 45 degree angle.

To sew right sides together, pin ends like this, leaving little 1/4″ tips hanging off the ends.

Sew with a good old 1/4″ seam allowance.

Press seam open.

And fold in half, creating the long binding strip.

Once the bias strip is pieced, use the same method as above to sew the binding to the quilt.

And there you go.

Once my binding is completed I love to wash my quilt to give it that puckery, antiqued look. (Plus, machine quilting can make your quilt kind of stiff, until it is washed. And what person wants to wrap a baby in a stiff quilt?) I tend to not pre-wash my fabric (and if you are using a charm pack, definitely don’t pre-wash that or you will get a bunch of shriveled, unraveled squares.) With most higher-end quilting fabric the quality is good enough that you don’t need to pre-wash ahead of time. I do throw in a Shout Color-catcher sheet when I wash the finished quilt, just in case. (you can get those in your grocery store laundry aisle.)

If you are using fabric from the bigger chain stores, you probably should pre-wash.

And voila! Here is the finished Charm-square baby quilt!

Hopefully binding a quilt was not too painful, and more hopefully it was a lot of fun and you can feel really proud of yourself!


Please don’t hesitate to leave feedback – especially if you have more questions or there are parts of this binding a quilt tutorial that need clarification.


Triangle Quiltalong – Binding | My Poppet Makes

Hooray! The Triangle Quilt is nearly finished, all that’s left to do is bind the edges. Binding is the finishing touch to frame your quilted work of art. Choose fabric to blend in or contrast with your quilt, depending on the finished look you’re after.

In the past I’ve been in so much of a rush to finish my quilt that I’ve machine sewn whatever bias binding I’ve had on hand, just so my quilt will be ‘done’. This time I decided to try a more traditional technique, one that is easier and gives a very neat result, ideal for beginners. Nice mitered corners are super simple when you know how…

Before we get to the binding, we need to trim away the excess batting. I’ve used the quilt top as a guide and just cut with scissors, but if your edges are a little wonky, you may want to mark a straight line with a ruler and then trim.

Here you can clearly see the layers of the quilt and how it’s constructed. I call it a quilt sandwich.

As an optional step, you may want to sew a seam around the whole edge of the quilt very close to the edge. This is handy if there is not much quilting close to the edges and can help prevent the layers from shifting. I skipped this step.

Making the binding strips:

There are lots of styles of binding and techniques that can be used to bind a quilt, for this project I’ve used straight grain double fold binding (sometimes called French binding).

That sounds pretty technical, but basically it’s just a long strip of fabric cut on a straight grain (not an angle) folded in half so that it covers the quilt’s edge with two layers of fabric. This makes it very durable and the binding of choice for any quilt that will be used regularly.

Straight grain binding is only good for straight edged quilts, if you want your binding to go around curves, you will need to cut it on the bias (45 degree angle).

Most binding tutorials will show you how to cut the strips with a ruler and a rotary cutter, but because I’m super lazy, I just ripped the fabric into strips. (Don’t tell any quilters, they will yell at me!).

I don’t have an issue with ripping fabric instead of cutting but others do, so do whatever is comfortable for you.

But before cutting (or ripping) we need to decide on the width of the strips.
I decided on 7cm (2 3/4″) and here’s why:
My walking foot gives me a seam allowance of 1cm (0.5″), I wanted the binding to be 1cm on each side and a little extra for the fold over.
So that’s about 3.5cm, double it (remember it’s double fold) and that’s how I decided on 7cm.
If you uses a smaller seam allowance or want wider/narrower binding, adjust accordingly.

The easiest way to work out how long you will have to make your binding is just measure around your quilt, then add a about 20cm (10″) for joining at the end.

I’ve cheated a little and just placed the strips around the quilt. Because I’m joining a few different fabrics together to create one long strip, laying it out helped me decide which colours go where.

Again in the spirit of thrift, I used some remnant pieces of fabric to make my binding strips.

Joining the fabric strips:

Diagonal joins are less bulky and, if you are using just one type of fabric, tend to give a more inconspicuous join.

1. Lay the strips you are joining at right angles, right sides of fabric facing each other.
2. Sew diagonally at 45 degrees then trim excess fabric
3. Open and press flat.
Continue till you have the desired length of binding.

Once all the strips are sewn together, fold the binding in half (wrong sides together) and press. Roll it all up neatly so it’s easier to handle.

Sewing on Binding:

Tip: If you have a walking foot use it. It can prevent the different layers of fabric from shifting while you sew, giving a neater result.

Place the binding with the open (non fold) side closest to the edge of the quilt. The quilt is facing top up.
Leave about a 10-12cm (5″) tail and sew the binding on.

Don’t let corners stop you in your tracks. They are super easy with this technique.

1. Mark with a pin the width of your seam allowance from the bottom edge of the corner. ie. I marked 1cm (0.5″) as this was the width of my seam. Sew up to but not over your mark.
2. Fold the binding strip back so its square to the edge, notice how it creates a nice 45 deg angle.
3. Fold back so the edge of the binding runs along the edge of the quilt.
4. Sew straight.
5. When the binding is turned it gives a nice neat mitered corner, and when you are ready to hand stitch the back, tuck in binding edge and pin for a neat result.

Joining ends:
Carry on sewing your binding all the way around the quilt but stop about 25cm (10″ from) where you started. You should have 2 ends of binding strips that need joining.
This bit can be a little tricky, so don’t try to rush it.
Hint: A fabric marker or chalk is handy for this step.

1. Open up the strips of fabric and butt them up against each other at a 45 degree angle as pictured.
2. Mark where they meet and just like joining the strips earlier, lay them at right angles (right sides facing) and sew on the marked line.
3. Trim excess fabric and press. Sew down onto the quilt.

Now it’s time to switch off the sewing machine, grab a cup of tea (or wine) and sit on the couch to watch a movie.

Are you comfortable?
Flip the quilt over and roll the binding over the edge. Some people like to press or clip the binding down at this stage, I just used a pin that kept a little bit of the binding flat whilst I hand stitched, and then moved it along as I progressed.
Do whatever you find easiest.

Hand stitching takes a little practice to make the stitches even and (preferably) hidden, I found doing a whip stitch where the long part of the stitch is under the binding and just a short little tack to hold the binding was the neatest.

I used to think this part was tedious and avoided hand stitched binding at all costs, but I’m really glad I put in the extra effort as the finish looks very elegant.

Looking back now, it was quite a meditative process, and a really nice way to wind up such a big project. I’ll certainly be hand finishing more quilts in future.

So the Triangle Quilt is finally finished and I’m curled up under it now as I write this post. It’s performing admirably!

I hope you have enjoyed the Triangle Quiltalong series and learned lots of helpful things along the way.

As I mentioned in the first post, my quilt making style is not always ‘canon’, but as a self taught sewer, I sometimes only find out the ‘rules’ after I’ve worked out my own way of doing things. So what I’m trying to say is, have a go! Use my instructions as a guide, but feel free to adjust things to suit your style.

If you’ve started on or made a triangle quilt of your own I’d love you to leave a comment with links to any pictures of your progress, or just hashtag #TriangleQuiltalong on Instagram.

Triangle Quiltalong series:


Perfect Machine Binding Tutorial for Quilts

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

You could say I’ve bound a few quilts in my life… I have never attempted to count just how many, but I do know I’m well past the 100-quilt mark. When I first learned to bind a quilt, I learned to stitch it by hand–at a nice, leisurely pace. It’s a wonderful activity, and while I love (and miss) the process of stitching the binding by hand, I have had to look for quicker solutions as life’s gotten a little busier. I’ve learned a lot over the last few years, and am excited to share my full quilt binding tutorial. In the last steps, you can choose whether you finish the binding by hand or machine.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

As is the case with many crafts, there’s a learning curve; it takes experience to get better at this quilt binding thing. As you implement these techniques, I’m confident you will see improvement on the next quilt you bind. And greater improvement on the next. It’s not likely that yours will look like mine on the first attempt, but don’t give up! Again, I’ve done this a lot and have been able to perfect this aspect of the craft. This is literally an example of practice made perfect. Let’s get started!

STEP #1: Gather your binding fabric and cut 2½” strips. If you’re following a quilt pattern, the instructions should tell you how much yardage, and how many strips to cut. Otherwise, you can figure it out on your own with a simple calculation:

1) Determine the perimeter of the quilt (add the length of each side of the quilt) + 15″.

2) Divide that sum by the 40″ WOF, then round up.

For example, if my finished quilt top is 75″ x 75″, I’ll add together:

75″ + 75″ + 75″ + 75″ + 15″ = 315″

If I divide that 315″ sum by 40″ WOF, I get 7.87 strips. Rounded up is 8 strips 2½” x WOF.

To cut the binding fabric, line up the folded edge of the yardage with the bottom line on your cutting mat. It’s important to have that folded edge aligned correctly so the strips will still run straight when you unfold them. Once everything’s aligned just right, use a ruler and rotary cutter to carefully cut the required amount of 2½” strips.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #2: Next, sew all of the binding strips together end-to-end, at a bias, to get (1) long strip. Sewing them together “at a bias” will reduce bulk (via a diagonal seam). To do this, just bring the ends of two strips right sides together at a 90 degree angle. Notice the ends overlap by quite a bit (to get rid of the unwanted bits of selvage). Draw a diagonal line as shown and pin in place.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Sew along the marked line.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Trim excess to 1/4″ seam allowance.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Press the seam open.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Proceed until all strips are sewn together end-to-end. Next, press the strip in half, wrong sides together. As you press a small section at a time, you can roll it up nicely like I did… or not. Sometimes mine ends up in more of a heap.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #3: Starting in middle of one side of the quilt: align the raw edges of the binding with the raw edge of the quilt. Skipping approx. the first 6″ of binding fabric, start stitching using scant 3/8″ seam allowance. (I stuck a pin to show you where I plan to start stitching.) A walking foot is strongly recommended for stitching through the bulky layers. (A walking foot essentially adds a second set of feed dogs on top to make sure the fabric feeds through evenly.) My machine is heavy duty and handles the bulk just fine with my quilter’s foot so that’s what I’m using.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

I mentioned using a scant 3/8″ seam allowance. My quilter’s foot is a perfect 1/4″ so you can see I’m stitching just a little outside that. I aim to keep it between 1/4″ and 3/8″ but the most important thing is consistency.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #4: Keep sewing down that first quilt side, slowing as you approach the bottom. Stop approx. 1/4″ away from the bottom edge–the idea is to be equidistant from the bottom edge as your seam allowance… i.e. if you were to draw a line from the last stitch to the corner, it would make a perfect 45 degree angle. I usually eyeball it. For the next step, pull the quilt a little ways out from under your machine…

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #5: To prepare the edges for mitering later, fold the binding strip to the right, at a 90 degree angle. Notice the part of the binding strip that forms a 45 degree angle. Finger-press that 45 degree fold to flatten in place.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #6: Fold the binding strip back onto itself–to cover the 45 degree fold–and run along the next side of the quilt (raw edges aligned).

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #7: Rotate the quilt so you can keep stitching down the next side of binding. Check that the new “top” edge of binding (a fold) aligns with the top edge of the quilt and that the raw edges of the folded binding strip and raw edge of the quilt are also aligned down the new side. Keep stitching using the same seam allowance (scant 3/8″) and repeat the pivot at all corners.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #8: After you have stitched past all four corners, sew until you are approx. 12″ away from the first stitch.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #9: Pull the quilt out from the machine and flatten the unbound area as best you can. Bring the binding tails together (keeping them flattened with the quilt) and trim so they overlap by exactly 2½”.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #10: Unfold the binding tails and bring them right sides together at a bias (same as earlier), but overlapping the ends by 1/8″. (This will feel like a small wrestle because of the heaviness of the quilt attached to the binding, plus threads keeping you tethered to the sewing machine, etc. Pull the quilt out enough from the machine so you can move it the way you need to; also fold/bunch the quilt as needed to help. Whatever you need to do to accommodate the binding tails so they can be brought right sides together at a 90 degree angle, overlapping by 1/8″. Mark a diagonal line, and pin in place.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Sew along the marked line and trim 1/4″ seam allowance. When you let go of the binding, it should be a perfect fit to the quilt. (Double check by holding the quilt taut–the binding should stretch to fit the area… if it feels a little too loose, it’s easy to pick out the stitches of the diagonal seam and make a small adjustment.)

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #11: Once you know it’s good, finger-press the seam open. Re-fold the strip in half, and finish stitching the binding to the quilt.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #12: Take the quilt to your ironing board, front facing down. (This is what it will look like before folding the edge of the binding over to cover the seam.) I just want to point out that the goal is to cover that seam by approx. 1/8″, because that seam is basically where the stitching will come through again. Covering the seam by 1/8″ with consistency is important and help it look as flawless as possible.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #13: Working from right to left, fold the binding over and press. (At the ends, the binding will form a point.)

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

After the section is pressed, draw a thin line of Elmer’s School Glue above the seam.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Re-fold the binding down and iron with a quick shot of steam, again focusing on covering the seam consistently by 1/8″. Because of the glue, the binding will be stuck in place right where you want it to stay! Keep moving along the quilt in sections to press/glue the binding in place.

<< NOTE: This is where I insert a quilt label tags into the binding >>

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #14: When reaching the end of a side, again, the binding will come out to a point like this.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Fold in the adjacent side of binding to miter the corner. Proceed to press and glue that adjacent side until you’ve gone around the whole perimeter of the quilt.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

STEP #15: For the next step–you have two options.

1) Finish by stitching the binding to the back of the quilt by hand with a needle and thread. No binding clips needed!

– OR –

2) Finish stitching the binding in place by machine in the following steps:

STEP #16: Bring the quilt (face up) back under the sewing machine and “stitch in the ditch” (aka the line where binding meets quilt). Since we’ve covered the seam on the back by 1/8″, the stitching hits right where we planned it to. I will sometimes place my finger on top of the quilt where I’m about to stitch to feel the binding edge underneath to confirm it’s 1/8″ out from where I’m about to stitch. (NOTE: If you’re worried about the seam not hitting the right place on the back, you can actually stitch into the top binding area instead of “in the ditch.” Just be consistent with whatever you choose.)

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

And that’s it! As I said earlier, it takes practice and you will discover what works best for you along the way. Here’s how mine looks on the back. Not technically perfect, but pretty darn close.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Oh and in case you’re wondering–this quilt is one of my Homestead quilts–mixing my Lollipop Garden fabric with Wildwood by Rifle Paper Co for Cotton + Steel. The binding is a striped print from Lollipop Garden.

Free Quilt Binding Tutorial: Expert tips on binding a quilt by hand or machine

Hope you found this helpful, the ironing and gluing has made a big difference for me!


Artificial Snow Blanket Used as a Garden Blanket or Net Wrapper

& Icy; & scy; & kcy; & ucy; & scy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & iecy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & jcy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & dcy; & iecy; & yacy; & lcy; & ocy; & icy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & zcy; & ucy; & iecy; & tcy; & scy; & yacy; & kcy; & acy; & kcy; & Scy; & acy; & dcy; & ocy; & dcy; & iecy; & yacy; & lcy; & ocy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & ucy; & scy; & tcy; & rcy; & ocy; & jcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & ocy; & ocy; & bcy; & vcy; & yacy; & zcy; & kcy; & icy; & scy; & iecy; & tcy; & kcy; & ocy; & jcy;

& Tcy; & iecy; & khcy; & ncy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & icy; & iecy; & khcy; & acy; & rcy; & acy; & kcy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & kcy; & icy; & colon;

& Pcy; & ucy; & ncy; & kcy; & tcy; No & period; S207
& Mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; 100 & percnt; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & icy; & ecy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy;
& SHcy; & icy; & rcy; & ocy; & kcy; & icy; & jcy; 90 ~ 300 & scy; & mcy;
& Tcy; & ocy; & lcy; & shchcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; 1 ~ 3 & scy; & mcy;
& Vcy & iecy & scy; 80 ~ 500gsm
& TScy; & vcy; & iecy; & tcy; & Bcy; & iecy; & lcy; & ycy; & jcy; & kcy; & acy; & kcy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & tscy; & vcy; & iecy; & tcy; & acy;
& Gcy; & rcy; & acy; & fcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & iecy; & ocy; & fcy; & ocy; & rcy; & mcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & iecy; & Scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & comma; & kcy; & acy; & kcy;
& Pcy; acy; & kcy; & iecy; & tcy; & Vcy; & rcy; & ucy; & lcy; & ocy; & ncy; & iecy; & vcy; & Mcy; & iecy; & shcy; & ocy; & kcy; & icy; & zcy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy;

& Fcy; & ucy; & ncy; & kcy; & tscy; & icy; & yacy; & colon;
& Mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & ocy; & vcy; & vcy; 100 & percnt; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & icy; & ecy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & comma; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ncy; & ocy; & pcy; & rcy; & ocy; & jcy; & tcy; & icy; & Rcy; & ocy; & shcy; & comma; MSDS & comma; & ocy; & khcy; & vcy; & acy; & tcy; & acy; & icy; & tcy; & period; & Pcy; & period; & rpar; & period; & period; & period; & Bcy; & iecy; & zcy; & ucy; & shchcy; & iecy; & rcy; & bcy; & acy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & kcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & icy; & period;

& Ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & shcy; & ocy; & iecy; & icy; & tcy; & yacy; & ncy; & iecy; & tcy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & ocy; & tcy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & acy; & lcy; & iecy; & gcy; & kcy; & ocy; & ncy; & acy; & Zcy; & acy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & ncy; & ocy; & jcy; & dcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ocy; & gcy; & iecy; & period; & Icy; & ocy; & ncy; & bcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & shcy; & iecy; & pcy; & ocy; & khcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & gcy; & acy; & ncy; & ycy; & khcy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & scy; & ocy; & vcy; batting & comma; & ncy; & ocy; & mcy; & yacy; & gcy; & kcy; & acy; & yacy; & icy; & ocy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & softcy; & lcy; & iecy; & gcy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & tcy; & yacy; & ncy; & ucy; & tcy; & softcy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & ocy; & tcy; & dcy; & rcy; & ucy; & gcy; & acy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & ucy; & scy; & tcy; & acy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & kcy; & icy; & vcy; & ncy; & iecy; & zcy; & acy; & vcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & ocy; & tcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy; & ncy; & iecy; & ocy; & bcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & kcy; & kcy; & rcy; & ycy; & shcy; & kcy; & iecy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & ocy; & shchcy; & softcy; & yucy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & acy; & period;

& Scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & dcy; & iecy; & yacy; & lcy; & ocy; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; #Cy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & acy; & icy; & zcy; & tcy; & ocy; & lcy; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & comma; & pcy; & ucy; & shcy; & icy; & scy; & tcy; & ycy; & jcy; & comma; unbonded & bcy; & iecy; & lcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & icy; ecy; & scy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & acy;

& Icy; & mcy; & iecy; & iecy; & tcy; & vcy; & ocy; & zcy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & softcy; & ocy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; yacy; & tcy; & softcy; & comma; & fcy; & ocy; & rcy; & mcy; & ycy; & icy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & scy; & scy; & fcy; & ocy; & rcy; & mcy; & ycy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & pcy; & ocy; & yacy; & vcy; & lcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; & ycy; & khcy; & ucy; & pcy; & acy; & lcy; & acy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & acy;

& Ucy; & dcy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & iecy; & ncy; & ncy; & ycy; & jcy; & dcy; & lcy; & icy; & ncy; & ycy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & scy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & zcy; & ocy; vcy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & ncy; & acy; & kcy; & ocy; & mcy; & mcy; & iecy; & rcy; & chcy; & iecy; & scy; & kcy; & ocy; & jcy; & ocy; & scy; & ncy; & ocy; vcy; & iecy;

& Bcy; & iecy; & lcy; & ycy; & jcy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; – & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & Dcy; & ocy; & lcy; & zhcy; & ncy; & ocy; & icy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & softcy; & ucy; & kcy; & rcy; & acy; & shcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; yacy; & ncy; & acy; & rcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & dcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & ocy; & comma; & ocy; & ncy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & tcy; & scy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & zcy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & chcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & softcy; & ncy; & ocy; & period; & Ocy; & scy; & ocy; & bcy; & iecy; & ncy; & ncy; & ocy; & bcy; & iecy; & lcy; & ycy; & jcy; & scy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & comma; & ocy; & ncy; & mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & tcy; & scy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & rcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & dcy; & iecy; & scy; & tcy; vcy; & iecy; & ncy; & scy; & kcy; & icy; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & dcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ocy; & lcy; & iecy; & iecy; & kcy; & rcy; & acy; & scy; & icy; & vcy; & ycy; & iecy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & mcy; & iecy; & chcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & softcy; & ncy; & ocy; & period;

& Kcy; & ocy; & rcy; & pcy; & ucy; & scy; & icy; & zcy; & ncy; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & rcy; & yucy; & chcy; & iecy; & gcy; & ocy; & mcy; & acy; & tcy; & iecy; & rcy; & icy; & acy; & lcy; & acy;

& Pcy; & acy; & kcy; & iecy; & tcy; & colon;

& CHcy; & acy; & scy; & tcy; & ocy; & zcy; & acy; & dcy; & acy; vcy; & acy; & iecy; & mcy; ycy; & iecy; & vcy; & ocy; & pcy; & rcy; & ocy; & scy; & ycy;

1 & period; & Mcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ucy; & lcy; & icy; & yacy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & ucy; & chcy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & tscy; & ycy; & quest;
& Dcy; & acy; & comma;
& Ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & zcy; & iecy; & tscy; & dcy; & lcy; & yacy; & icy; & zcy; & gcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; vcy; & icy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & iecy; & jcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ocy; & rcy; & ucy; & dcy; & ocy; vcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & chcy; & ncy; & ocy; & zcy; & acy; & ncy; & icy; & mcy; & acy; & iecy; & tcy; & pcy; & rcy; & icy; & bcy; & lcy; & icy; & zcy; & icy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & softcy; & ncy; & ocy; 5 ~ 15 & dcy; & ncy; & iecy; & jcy; & comma; & ocy; & ncy; & acy; & zcy; & acy; & vcy; & icy; & scy; & icy; & tcy; & ocy; & tcy; & dcy; & icy; & zcy; & acy; & jcy; & ncy; & acy; & icy; & tcy; & iecy; & khcy; & ncy; & icy; & kcy; & icy; & period;

2 & period; & Mcy; & ocy; & zhcy; & iecy; & tcy; & iecy; & lcy; & icy; & vcy; & ycy; & scy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & mcy; & ocy; & jcy; & lcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & tcy; & icy; & pcy; & ncy; & acy; & pcy; & rcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ucy; & kcy; & tcy; & quest;
& Kcy; & ocy; & ncy; & iecy; & chcy; & ncy; & ocy; & excl; & Ncy; & iecy; & ocy; & bcy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & icy; & mcy; & ocy; & tcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & kcy; & ocy; & pcy; & rcy; & iecy; & dcy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & acy; vcy; & icy; & tcy; & softcy; & ncy; & acy; & mcy; & vcy; & acy; & shcy; & icy; & scy; & khcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ncy; & ycy; & jcy; & fcy; & acy; & jcy; & lcy; & scy; & lcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & tcy; & icy; & pcy; & ocy; & mcy; & icy; & lcy; & icy; & chcy; & iecy; & tcy; & kcy; & ocy; & gcy; & ocy; & icy; & zcy; & ocy; & bcy; & rcy; & acy; & zhcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; & comma; & chcy; & tcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & mcy; & ycy; & mcy; & ocy; & gcy; & lcy; & icy; & scy; & dcy; & iecy; & lcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & ecy; & tcy; & ocy; & period;

3 & period; & CHcy; & tcy; & ocy; & mcy; & iecy; & tcy; & ocy; & dcy; & ocy; & pcy; & lcy; & acy; & tcy; & ycy; & quest;
& Bcy; & acy; & ncy; & kcy; & ocy; & vcy; & scy; & kcy; & icy; & jcy; & pcy; & iecy; & rcy; & iecy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & lpar; T & sol; T & rpar; & comma; Western Union & icy; Moneygram & comma; & comma; L & sol; C & comma; paypal

4 & period; & Scy; & kcy; & ocy; & lcy; & softcy; & kcy; & ocy; vcy; & rcy; & iecy; & mcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & pcy; & rcy; & ocy; & icy; & zcy; & vcy; & ocy; & dcy; & scy; & tcy; & vcy; & acy; & quest;
& IEcy; & iecy; & ocy; & bcy; & ycy; & chcy; & ncy; & ocy; & vcy; yout 15 ~ 25 & dcy; & ncy; & iecy; & jcy; & pcy; & ocy; & scy; & lcy; & iecy; & pcy; & ocy; & lcy; & ucy; & chcy; & iecy; & ncy; & icy; & yacy; ?????????????? & icy; & vcy; & scy; & iecy; & pcy; & ocy; & dcy; & rcy; & ocy; & bcy; & ncy; & ocy; & scy; & tcy; & icy; & period;

5 & period; & Kcy; & acy; & kcy; & scy; & vcy; & yacy; & zcy; & acy; & tcy; & softcy; & scy; & yacy; & scy; & vcy; & acy; & mcy; & icy; & quest;

90,000 Lightweight Patchwork Fence 2021 – House

Easy Rail Fence Blanket Template.Janet Wickell

Railroad Fence is a simple blanket pattern that is customizable for customization. Each quilt block is made up of four segments cut from striped fabrics, making it easy to estimate the tier requirements if you want to increase or decrease the quilt.

The rail fencing blanket shown here can be made in just five fabrics:

  • Four different quilting fabrics, with one fabric repeating at the outer edge.
  • Dark fabric used as inner border for blocking – repeats in binding.

Blanket blocks … MORE end at 12 “x 12”

Blanket ends at about 73 “x 85”

I wanted the red stripes to slip a little in the layout and feel that placing a dark brown stripe next to them gave red depth without overpowering its warmth.

Next came muted gold – not a fabric that overwhelms the rest, but a warm color that is easily visible.The final fabric is light and contrasts with the fabrics on each side, creating a secondary (but visually narrower) jagged path in the layout.

Choose any colors. If you prefer, focus only on the color meaning (contrast) and create stripe sets from many fabrics to make a patchwork quilt. You’ll find quilt building tips at the bottom of page 2, along with details to help you use the jelly gargle strips to make your quilt.

Not sure about the fabric? These tutorials can help.

  • Color value for Quilters (all about contrast)
  • Easy ways to select colors and fabrics for quilts
  • Simplified color wheel

Quilted fabrics and other materials

Red , for quilted blocks

Dark brown , for quilts and outer border

  • 1-1 / 2 yards for border from transverse grain stripes
  • Gold

, for quilted blocks 1-1 / 3 yard

  • Light neutral

, for quilts

1-1 / 3 yards

1/2 yards for inner border from transverse grain stripes

  • Cf.Anchor note below
  • Blanket Backing

A panel approx. 83 “x 95”, 5-1 / 2 yards or if required with a quilter longfinger if shipping (how to make cover protection)

Same as for support.

Approx. 341 continuous centimeters of double staple, label depends on strip width (how to make strapping strips)

  • If you need a smaller blanket

, try my light rail quilt pattern, Continue to 2 of 3 below.90,005 02 of 03

  • Make Quilt Blocks for Bedding Comforter with Fence

    Make 30 Patchwork Fence Blocks. Janet Wickell

    Craft 30 Quilt Blocks for the Rail Fence Blanket. Each block is created from four simple stripe segments.

    Use quarter inch seam allowance throughout.

    • See how to cut strips of fabric, if necessary.
    • Start by cutting one strip of each fabric to make a test strip and a quilt block.

    Cut (20) 2 “wide strips of each block fabric from edge to edge (red, brown, gold, light)

    1. Stop strips together.
    2. Sew one of each stripes together lengthwise in groups of four, as shown above, top illustration and … MORE in this order: red – brown – gold – light. Press the seam over the darker stripes.
    3. A square at one end of the strip set. Starting at the square end, cut as many 6-1 / 2 “segments as possible – perhaps 6.You will have a short segment that will be released at the end of the strip set. Save the leftovers from each set of stripes and trim them all to match – try a patchwork border in this blanket, or use segments in another project.
    4. Make additional sets of strips and cut a total of (120) 6-1 / 2 “segments.
    5. Gather the four segments and arrange them in two lines as shown at the bottom left.
    6. Sew the segments into each line together.Press down on the seams on the vertical bars and then join the rows.
    7. After joining the block rows, you can go forward and press a new seam, or wait until the quilt rows are located and then press the seams in adjacent rows in opposite directions.
    8. Make 30 quilted blocks that measure a 12-1 / 2 “x 12-1 / 2” square.

    To make more quilt block out, simply cut additional stripes and create more stripe sets.Cut four segments for each additional block. Adjust the tabs, batting, lining and binding to fit the new quilt size.

    Make a patchwork quilt for scrap

    Patchwork quilt options:

    Sew four 2 “x 6-1 / 2” patches together to create each of 120 block blocks, or

    • Make shorter sets of stripes from different fabrics – you will need the same number o 6-1 / 2 “, 120.If you are using short sets of stripes, try to keep the same contrast arrangement from set to set – for example, go from dark to light in each set.

    Use Jelly Rinse Strips to make Rail Fence

    Rolls of Jelly can be used to make Rail Fence Blankets. The jelly rinse strips are 2-1 / 2 “wide and will make blocks that end in an area of ​​16”. Rolls are available with different numbers of strips.

    Cuts 8-1 / 2 “segments when using 2-1 / 2” wide strips of roll. If you carefully remove only a little of the fabric when squaring, you can probably cut five segments per set of strips.

    • If five segments in a set are possible, you will need 24 roll strips for each fabric. Jelly buns are great for quilts.

    Continue to 3 of 3 below. 03 of 03 90 134

  • Sew the stitches and finish Sewing the rail Linen blanket with the inscription

    Sew stitches for the railroad fencing blanket.Janet Wickell

    To complete the Rail Boom blanket, position the five blanket blocks as shown at the top. Sew the blocks together to create a row at the bottom (if you didn’t press the center seams of the individual blocks, do so now by pressing the adjacent seams in opposite directions before stitching the blocks together).

    1. Create five more lines.
    2. Click on the seam labels between blocks in opposite directions in adjacent rows.
    3. Join strings and press.
    4. Use 2 “wide dark black stripes to create inner side borders for your comforter. If you’re new … MORE sheets, read How to Exfoliate Borders to Comforter” before measuring and sewing.
    5. Click on the seams of the border.
    6. Use a 5-1 / 2 “wide stripe to create an outer border. Press the seams on the side. Press the top of the quilt again.
    7. Mark the quilted fabric if necessary. Sandwich with batting and propping and toasting.Quilt duvet, then remove excess batting and stand, lifting corners as needed
    8. . Sew a double slip tie around the edges of the duvet.
  • Non-flammable fiberglass wool rolls blanket fiberglass insulation material

    Non-flammable fiberglass wool rolls blanket fiberglass thermal insulation material

    Introduction: Glass wool insulation material is made of molten glass swirled and molded into mats, rolls and blankets from coated fiber cloth with resin strapping.The glass wool product has the characteristics of good thermal insulation and sound absorption, low construction cost, energy-saving insulation, sound control, and improved indoor air quality.

    Classifications: Mainly includes fiberglass blanket, fiberglass wool board and glass wool tube. We can also provide high temperature glass wool in panels and blankets, environmentally friendly glass wool board & blanket, insulation flexible tube for ventilation and air conditioning, glass wool lamellas carpets and rugs, microfiber boards and so on.

    Types of cladding: Aluminum foil, black glass fabric, glass, fabric.

    Product range: Density 10 kg / m3 to 48 kg / m3 for glass wool rolls and thickness 12 mm to 150 mm

    Temperature range: Glass wool is suitable for applications ranging from minus 195 degrees Celsius to plus 230 degrees Celsius. For special applications up to 450 degrees. Aluminum foil is suitable for temperatures up to 120 degrees Celsius.

    Chemical resistance: Glass wool is chemically inert. Application does not cause or accelerate corrosion. Glass wool is resistant to decay and odorless.

    Fire safety: Glass wool is non-flammable in accordance with BS 476 non-flammable, very low flame spread, no dense smoke and noxious gases, oxygen depletion (high oxygen index 70%).

    Biological microscope: Glass wool is inorganic.Will not promote the growth of fungi and parasites.

    Surround: Glass wool is stable under various conditions of temperature and humidity when used correctly. Excellent tensile strength and is not prone to sagging or settling. Rigid slabs have inherently high compressive strength.

    Usage: They are widely used for insulation, ventilation and air conditioner regulation in commercial industry and residential construction.

    Product Specifications Performance parameter Compliance
    Operating temperature range From -100 to + 450 ℃ Operating temperature range
    Corrosion resistance No chemical reaction Solar Collector GB / T 17393
    Average fiber diameter 5-7 Solar Collector GB / T 5480

    Slag balls content

    (Particle size> 0.25 mm)

    ≤ 0.3 Solar Collector GB / T 5480
    Water content ≤ 1.0% Solar collector GB / T 20313
    Moisture absorption coefficient ≤ 5.0% Solar Collector GB / T 5480
    Speed ​​Hydrophobic ≥ 98% Solar Collector GB / T 10299
    Heat load Shrinkage temperature ≥ 300 ≥ 350 ≥ 350 ≥ 400 Solar Collector GB / T 5480

    Thermal conductivity k

    (W / m.℃)

    ≤ 0.038 Solar Collector GB / T 10294
    Combustion performance class A1 Non-combustible material GB / T 8624-2012
    Mass density (kg / m3) 10-150kg / m3
    T Thickness (mm) 20-100 mm
    WIDþ (mm) 0.4-1.2 m
    L Length (mm) 3-30 m (at the request of the customer)
    Color Yellow, white, pink, brown or custom
    Loading port Qingdao Port, China (Mainland)

    Q1: Can I get some samples?
    A: Yes, sample order is available for quality checking and market testing.But you have to pay for the express shipping cost of the sample.

    B2: Are you getting a custom order?
    Answer: Yes, ODM and OEM are welcome.

    Q3: What’s the lead time?
    A: depending on the order quantity, small order usually takes 3-5 days, large order requires negotiation.

    Q4: What are your warranty conditions?
    A: We supply 12 months warranty period.

    Q5: What’s your payment terms?
    A: We receive Escrow, T / T, West Union, cash, etc.D.

    Roll of thermal insulation foil

    Multi-layer roof covered with foil, multi-layer insulation of aluminum + bubble + foam, heat-resistant material 1. Product Introduction of multi-layer insulation 1. Multi-layer bubble insulation, lined with foil, consists of two 97% reflective layers, the film is glued to the foam layer xpe / epe, which is clamped …

    Roll insulation material

    Thermal insulation material is an ideal thermal insulation material for hot summer, often used for roofs and walls.Insulation materials can be insulated to block convection and heat conduction. It is made of reflective aluminum foil surface + bubble film backing material, thinner than traditional insulation materials, suitable for walls, floors and ceilings. The insulating coil can be used alone or with other insulating materials.

    0 Bubble diameter 3: 9006 cm / 5 cm / 7 cm / 10 cm

    Material: Aluminum foil and bubble wrap
    Size: Custom roll size or sheet size
    Thickness: 3mm-8mm
    GSM: 130 ~ 200 g / m2
    Fire resistance: Class B1
    Thermal conductivity: 0.03 W / mk
    Thermal reflectivity 97%
    Application: Roof, floor, wall, window, attic
    Package: Plastic bag / pallet loading

    Single bubble insulation

    Double bubble insulation Chapter 9 0005

    Landy Bubble Insulation Features:

    1.An effective thermal insulation film that reduces heat loss by up to 50%.

    2. After professional thermal and fire tests

    3. Flexibility and ease of installation.

    4. Customizable insulation material, thickness, R value and packing style

    Large roll of insulation

    Small roll of insulation

    Insulation sheet

    Landy Profile:


    Does Foil Insulation Really Work?

    This works well with most insulating materials because thermal conduction is the primary way of preventing heat movement.However, foil insulation works a little differently. … This means that foil insulation will have a higher thermal conductivity, but may well perform better than expected in the real world.

    Hot Tags: multilayer insulation, multilayer insulating blankets, multilayer insulating material, multilayer reflective insulation, multilayer thermal insulation, multilayer insulation rolls, multilayer thin insulation

    “working step”, “pico” and “openwork” schemes

    Any knitted product has a complete look if its edges are decorated with a suitable tying.It can both decorate the product and spoil it, so the choice of strapping must be taken very seriously.

    The hook is an indispensable tool for decorating the edge of an already knitted product. It can be either a dress, or a pullover, or a napkin or tablecloth.


    Crocheting the edge

    There are a great many schemes that can be used for strapping, with their help you can not only decorate an already finished product or its parts, but also hide minor oversights made during.

    With the help of interesting crochet patterns, you can decorate the edges of collars and cuffs, tie a neckline or an armhole.

    How to tie the edge of a garment

    If you are just recently carried away, then you should be wondering how to decorate the edge of a knitted garment beautifully and correctly with a crochet hook. The most popular patterns used for this are the rachis step, the pico technique and various openwork patterns. Thanks to them, the product will look exquisite and unique, and most importantly, it will be complete.It will be interesting for beginners to watch the border knitting lessons.

    There are two types of strapping:

    • directly on the product itself, which excludes its incorrectly stitching;
    • Knitting a pattern in the form of a border or ruffle, in order to subsequently stitch it to the product.

    Using this finish you can:

    • give the product a new look;
    • keep the shape of the product, which was in the sock and slightly stretched;
    • to decorate a nondescript thing that is dear to you;
    • to hide the flaws made during knitting.

    Rach step pattern

    It is used for the edge of the product
    to shape it. The knitting is very simple, it uses only single crochet, which are known even to novice needlewomen. To complete the pattern, you need to crochet the finished product or parts of it, using only single crochet posts. To perform the second row, the same single crochet will be used, only the row will not be knitted as usual – from right to left, but vice versa, from left to right.Hence the name of the pattern -.

    Having finished the first row, we begin the second. The hook must be inserted into the loop that is located from the one already on the hook, draw out the air loop, and then knit the two obtained loops together with a single crochet. So you need to knit the second row of this pattern.

    Most often, this pattern is used for tying children’s products so that they stretch less.

    Pico technique

    Needlewomen who have been knitting for a long time can say that this technique is also used for tying the edge of not only clothes , but also shoes
    .Due to its small size and use for knitting air loops, the edge looks nice and airy.

    Not only the pico name may appear, but also the pique. Knitting is a crocheted chain of air loops that are closed in a ring. Such a pattern, in the form of a border, is of two types:

    1. Classic, this is when three air loops are knitted, and the initial one from which they were knitted is used to fix them. A yarn is made from it, and then two loops are knitted together.
    2. Trefoil – this is the same classic version, only three such rings are knitted, consisting of three air loops. Each chain is fixed, and after the third chain, with the help of a connecting post, everything is knitted together.

    This strapping is used for the edge of the sleeve, beret, and even napkins. The number of air loops will depend on the thickness of the thread. In more detail, this information can be heard at the knitting lesson.

    Arched strapping made of air loops

    For it single crochet and air loops are used
    .The pattern begins with a row of single crochets. The second row and all subsequent ones are knitted in the same way. If you need a delicate, beautiful arch to decorate the edge, then you need to knit like this: a chain of five air loops is tied, then with the help of a connecting column it is attached through three columns to the fourth, previous row. And so on, until the end of the row.

    Such binding is most often found on scarves, stoles, shawls and napkins. After knitting the last row of strapping, you can decorate the listed products with brushes.

    Openwork edge

    To obtain such an edge, it will take more time and perseverance. There are many openwork patterns, but you only need to choose the one that will be exactly match the style and purpose of the product
    . If you are new to this business, then choose a simpler scheme so that the complex pattern does not torture you.

    Let’s consider in more detail one knitted pattern, which can be knitted as a separate element, or they can be tied to the finished edge of the product, without subsequent filing.If the strapping goes as an independent part, then knitting begins with air loops (we carry out experiments on samples). A chain of 25 loops is knitted. The second row begins with the fifth chain stitch from the hook.

    1. row. Single crochet stitches are knitted along the edge of the desired product or on the sample.
    2. row. One single crochet, four air loops, which must be fastened with a connecting loop in the third column (of the previous row). Two double crochets, two air loops and again two double crochets in the same loop as the previous two.This is followed by four air loops, fixed with a connecting loop in the third single crochet of the previous row. Thus, we knit to the end of the row, if this is a sample, or we tie the edges of the product. It turns out beautiful, airy arches.

    Beginning craftswomen need to tackle simple openwork patterns, and only then, when everything is simple and fast, move on to more complex ones. Crocheting the edge completes the finished piece.

    On the Internet, you can find many border patterns with descriptions, and even ready-made master classes, video tutorials that will help you master the crochet technique without any courses.

    Crochet neck strapping: schemes

    • arch strapping made of air loops;
    • rachis step or pico, and at the end – a lush fringe;
    • openwork border.

    Sweater Neck Tie

    This finishing method should be tried by novice craftswomen. On the seamy side of the finished product, along the edge of the neck, a chain stitch is crocheted and fixed. The product turns to the front side, and with the help of the existing loops on the neck, you can knit any openwork pattern that is suitable for your product.

    Border for tablecloth or napkin

    The edge of these delicate products can be decorated with pretty scallops. Here’s how they fit:

    • first row – single crochet;
    • second row – one single crochet, two loops of the previous row are skipped, and in the third 4 crochets are knitted. There should be 2 air loops between them. Next, again skip 2 loops of the previous row and 4 double crochet in the third loop, not forgetting to knit 2 air loops between them.So we knit to the end of the row. The border turns out to be beautiful and lush.


    For any piping there must be a diagram with a description. If you do not rush and understand the notation, then the work will not seem very difficult. You need to start work only with easy schemes, eventually moving on to more complex ones.

    A hand-knitted product is always more expensive than a purchased item. And if the model turned out to be unique, with the help of crocheting the edge, then such a product is doubly valuable.

    The skill of crocheting a few decades ago was considered as necessary for a woman as the ability to read or write. And this is not accidental, because knowledge of the rules for weaving loops allows you not only to create beautiful products, but also to add special charm and grace to ready-made outfits or jewelry. Therefore, even today, information on how to crochet the edge of the product will help bring originality to many things.

    Nuances of the knitting process

    One of the last steps in creating yarn products is edge binding.It would seem that this is such an insignificant moment compared to knitting a whole canvas! However, a sloppy edge can ruin the whole impression of even the most beautiful pattern. In addition, if we neglect the tying of the finished product, it may simply bloom during operation. Also, several crocheted rows can:

    • Help avoid curling at the edges of knitwear;
    • Refresh boring outfits;
    • to hide imperfections, for example, an ugly seam or stains;
    • to stiffen the edge so that the product keeps its shape.

    All these problems can be easily solved with the right yarn and a crochet hook – a real magic wand.

    One of the simplest strapping patterns is “Rachy step”
    . To complete it, you need to insert the head of the hook into the first right loop, but for the direction of knitting – from the left to the right. The hook is then inserted into all edge loops. A single column is knitted in them, in the corners – a triple one. Such a pattern looks especially beautiful on threads of a contrasting shade.This type of harness is convenient for functional things (gloves, for example) that are actively used.

    Knitting patterns for an arch from air loops

    For products that are tied for decorative purposes, an arch made of air loops is suitable.


    1. In the hem loop, make 1 single crochet.
    2. If desired, we knit from 4 to 12 air loops.
    3. Insert the hook into the base 3-4 stitches from the first one.
    4. Repeat steps 1-3.

    Such a pattern must be made free, otherwise the product will twist and shrink.

    Another type of decorative trim – “Pico” pattern


    1. Draw the hook into the loop of the base, make 2 single crochets.
    2. Throw in 5-7 loops (air).
    3. We put the hook in the first loop and close it together with the working one.

    Beads or buttons can be woven into the pattern to add originality.You can also vary the frequency of the fishnet chains.

    More complex option – “Shell” harness
    , giving the edge a rounded shape. In order to knit it, you need to knit several ring columns in one loop of the base. It is important to consider one point: before and after each shell, you need to skip as many loops as there are in each column. Then the pattern will be even.

    Lovers of intricate designs will love “Lush columns” pattern
    .Only he needs thick threads.


    1. Insert the hook into the loop of the base and knit from 6 to 10 loops with one crochet.
    2. We return to the loop of the base and draw out a loop equal in length to the column.
    3. This is followed by a yarn and a long eyelet.
    4. Having made 1 more yarn over, draw all the long ones into 1 loop.

    All the above schemes can be made multi-tiered, repeating the same patterns or combining them.

    In order for the strapping to be aesthetic and functional, it is necessary to take into account some recommendations:

    • before starting the edge processing, a small sample should be knitted in order to evaluate the appropriate size of the border and correctly calculate the pattern around the perimeter of the product;
    • for tying the edges, the threads are used a little thinner than in the product – then the edge will not look weighted;
    • to add elegance to things, beads, sequins or buttons on the leg are used;
    • if knitwear is tied, the fabric is tucked up 1 time, and only then the hook is stuck in, a row is knitted without a crochet and the pattern itself begins – so the loops of the product will not “run”.

    Hand knitting, a useful hobby, is still popular. For centuries, it has been used to make vital furnishings and clothing. Today, his role is reduced to creative self-expression and a kind of therapy.

    Why the hook is good

    Crocheting has many advantages over knitting. Among the most obvious ones are:

    • There is only one working hinge.
    • Ability to change the direction of knitting at your own discretion.
    • The widest selection of patterns that are easy to make.
    • The ability to add and reduce buttonholes, which allows you to get canvases of a wide variety of shapes and configurations.

    That is why knitted toys, summer openwork clothes, clothes for animals and other similar products are much easier to make using a crochet hook.

    Why you need to tie the edge

    Owning the basic principles of crocheting will be useful even for the most ardent adherents of knitting needles.The harness (schemes for such work are very easy to find) will be useful for decorating a variety of items:

    • Hats.
    • Blouses, sweaters and cardigans.
    • Plaids and knitted blankets.
    • Napkins and towels (both knitted and textile).

    Bindings require all open edges of the product. Some models provide for the execution of planks, edges or other types of edge decoration during the knitting process.

    This method has its advantages: the strapping forms a single whole with the canvas, there are no abrupt transitions, there is no need to worry about the accuracy of its implementation and the coincidence of the density parameters.However, if with the help of strapping they plan to correct the size of the product, apply a different color or texture of the yarn, as well as a specific pattern, then the only way out is to crochet the edge of the product. Schemes and examples of ready-made straps are located below.

    Corner strapping

    Openwork corner strapping is the most popular type of strapping. the corners of the products has its own pattern: the obligatory expansion of the canvas at an angle of 45 degrees. Comparing two such angles gives a right angle (90 degrees).This principle must be taken into account if you have to independently develop a scheme for strapping them. For example, if you liked the pattern, but did not show the diagram of the formation of the corner.

    If everything is found, then you just have to follow the instructions. Below is a knitting pattern for a crochet strap, built on the principle of circular expansion of the canvas.

    The center of the “circle” is a picot of three air loops (VP), into which five magnificent columns are knitted. Successive expansion forms a rounded corner.

    The pattern is universal in that, if desired, it can be continued further, observing the rules of expansion and formation of corners.

    Cross-tied harness

    We can also offer the old method of making vintage harnesses from cotton or linen. They were used for decoration:

    • towels,
    • towels,
    • tracks,
    • pillowcases,
    • tablecloths,
    • curtains,
    • blankets and other decorative textile and knitted items.

    This crochet pattern is not very suitable for clothes, unless it is planned to make something in the folk style.

    How it happens

    Knit begins with a set of air loops, the number of which corresponds to the height of the future strapping, and knit according to the pattern, increasing the fabric until its lateral height is equal to the length of the edge that needs strapping. Then the finished harness is sewn with an overlay seam to the edge of the product.

    A characteristic feature of this type of strapping is the formation of a pattern by combining empty and filled square cells.Empty cells are two double crochets (CCHs), between which there are two VPs. The filled cells are two CCHs, between which there are also two CCHs. The crochet pattern shown here perfectly illustrates this description: filled cells are indicated by crosses.

    Crocheting knitted items

    We should also mention the process of crocheting knitted items. This is done in pursuit of several goals:

    • achieving a neat edge;
    • , if desired, decorate the edge with an openwork pattern;
    • when knitting a button strip;
    • If necessary, change the dimensions of the product (increase the length or width).

    The process begins after the main work is completed, all the details are connected and sewn. The best preparation of a garment for strapping is to steam it with an iron or wash it in warm water. So you can see the actual dimensions of the product.

    Then the first row of strapping is performed, which always consists of single crochet posts (RLS)! Here you have to strain your spatial imagination, since the loop-to-loop principle is irrelevant, especially when working with the side edge of the product.It is necessary to select the number of strapping loops “by eye”.

    Insufficient quantity will lead to the contraction of the fabric, and excessive quantity will lead to a ruffle effect. Therefore, experienced knitters recommend performing a trial tying pattern on a piece of the product, at least 15 cm long (for an objective assessment of the result).

    Woven fabric binding

    If you need to decorate a textile napkin, kitchen or bath towel, tablecloth or clothing, you can use two types of binding.

    1. Straps tied directly onto the fabric. To form its first row, a thin hook is used, which is threaded between the threads of the fabric. You can also use it on which to then crochet the canvas (as in the photo below). The disadvantage of this method is the complexity of calculating the required number of loops.
    2. Tie the hem separately and then sew to the garment. Such a crochet strapping scheme is much simpler than the previous one and has the advantage: it is easier to adjust and correct the size of the strapping in time.However, here you have to deal with sewing on the border, and the seams can look rough.

    Strapping of the diagram and photo

    When making a blanket or bedspread, one of the mandatory stages of work is strapping.

    It is started when the product is completely ready. Crocheting products (the diagrams are located below) can consist in knitting elementary RLS or decorating a blanket with a more interesting border.

    In the first case, the right angle is formed by knitting three RLS from one corner RLS, in the second, by observing the expansion rules described above.

    Knowing the basic principles and owning, even at an initial level, crochet techniques, you can quickly and accurately decorate the edge of any product.

    How to quickly and easily make a fringe

    This ornament can be useful for decorating interior items – curtains, tablecloths, lampshades …
    Besides, fringe can be used in small handicrafts – making toys, clothes for dolls and other interesting things.
    To quickly create a fringe, we will need: yarn of the desired color and composition, a cardboard roll (you can glue toilet rolls together), cloth tape (roll adhesive plaster is also great), scissors and threads.
    We will use a sewing machine for sewing.
    The diameter of the cardboard cylinder will determine how long the fringe strands will be. If the cylinder reaches 5 cm in diameter, then the length of the threads will be approximately 7-8 cm.

    So, we fix the end of the yarn – we glue it with a plaster to the edge of the roll. We begin to wind the threads around the roll. We do this without tightening the yarn, otherwise it will be difficult to remove it from the cylinder. After spinning the threads to the second end of the roll, cut off the yarn and fix its tip – attach it to the cardboard.Now we cut off the plaster of the required length and glue it along the entire length of the roll across the threads.

    English translation, synonyms, antonyms, example sentences, meanings, phrases

    Such an approach is superfluous, because each employee usually brings his own roll. This approach is somewhat bulky and redundant, as every worker usually brings their own roll.
    I advise you to take note of this, so that when arrested, employees will be sure to look for a roll. I recommend issuing an advisory now, so the arresting officers will be sure to search for the roll.
    I need them, a roll of duct tape and an extension cord. I need them, a roll of duct tape, and an extension cord.
    The wooden wall panel consists of upper and lower straps and wood blocks placed between them. The composite wooden wall panel consists of upper and lower frameworks and of wood blocks arranged therebetween.
    Fortunately, they appeared before I used up the first roll. Luckily, they showed up before I finished my first roll.
    The geometrical dimensions of the sheet are selected from the condition of the possibility of its passage through the manhole hatch in a rolled or folded position. The geometrical dimensions of the sheet are selected so as to allow same to pass through a manhole opening when rolled into a tube or in a folded state.
    I was looking for toilet paper, which you obviously never do, because every time I come to you, I have to put on a new roll. I was looking for toilet paper, which is something, evidently, you never do, because every time I come to your house, I have to put toilet paper on the roll.
    “If this is part of the redemption process, missing one or two payments is not the end of the world,” Trebes said by telephone on Tuesday. “If it’s part of a settlement process then missing one or two payments is not the end of the world,” Trebesch said by phone Tuesday.
    1) the Turkish Air Force was deprived of the opportunity to perform combat missions, and the Russians began to strike in the area as part of the anti-ISIS coalition; 1) It grounded the Turkish Air Force, then conducting strike operations in the area, as part of the anti-ISIS coalition;
    When a roll of toilet paper runs out, it needs to be replaced, okay? When you finish a roll of toilet paper, you gotta replace it, okay?
    And the king unrolled a roll of wallpaper all over the floor. And the King unrolled the wall-paper, spreading it over, the whole floor.
    I borrowed one small roll of ribbon from a sailing boat to fix my sail. I borrowed one small roll of tape from a passing boat to fix my sail.
    Oh, he’s the kind of guy who rolls up their stinky boxers and throws them into the basket. Oh, he does this thing where he shoots his dirty boxers into the hamper like a buzzer beater.
    It’s just a cotton roll of toilet paper. It’s just cotton balls on toilet paper rolls.
    Thank you, a roll of masking tape. Thank you, roll of masking tape.
    Only you seem to have forgotten your napkins, clean plates, spoons, forks and a roll of toilet paper. I don’t suppose you also brought napkins, clean bowls, utensils and a roll of toilet paper.
    My coach said that next time I need to roll the paper up and spank myself on the head because it’s my fault. My trainer told me that next time it happened that I should roll up a piece of newspaper and smack myself on the head because it was my fault.
    Garden hose and roll of duct tape. Garden hose and a roll of duct tape.
    And since you are part of us who won the Golden Lily, I would like to give this to you. And, since you were such an integral part of us winning the Golden Lily, I’d like to give it to you.
    Listen, just take the roll off the holder and take it with you when you sit down. Okay, look, just take the roll off of the dispenser and bring it with you before you sit.
    It must be an integral part of egalitarianism. Part of the egalitarianism, I suppose, said Dors.
    Self-reliance is part of a good film, though. Though it’s true that self-reference is an element of a good movie.
    I guess you tell me this is part of your investigation? I suppose you’re gonna tell me that this is also a part of your investigation?
    When the paper towel roll runs out, insert a new one. When the roll of toweling is used up, replace it.
    I noticed a roll of cling film. I noticed a roll of plastic food wrap.
    You won’t have time to hang the roll, and there is nothing. Hardly put a roll out ‘fore it’s gone.
    Also, it’d be great if you’d replace the toilet paper when you finish a roll.
    And this step includes chloroform and a roll of duct tape? Does that step include chloroform and a roll of duct tape?
    And the one on the right looks like a tiny roll of duct tape in her mouth. And also, the one on the right there seems to have a tiny roll of gaffer tape in its mouth.
    Here’s $ 3.50 for one roll of toilet paper. 22 bucks for a bottle of aspirin. There’s $ 3.50 for a single roll of toilet paper, 22 bucks for a bottle of aspirin.
    When the toilet runs out of paper, I don’t put in a new roll. When I use up the toilet paper, I don’t put on a new roll.
    Well, I guess I’ll need an ice bucket and a roll of duct tape. Welp, guess I’m gonna need a bucket of ice and a roll of gaffer tape.
    Add to this the roll of small bills we found in his pants pocket … Couple that with the roll of small bills found in his pant pocket …
    And the police figured it out because he had duct tape on his wrists, but the roll, reel was still attached. And the police realized it because he had duct tape round his wrists, but the reel, the spool of it was still connected.
    So what, he just rolled it up under
    Well, this is part of my investigation. Well, this is part of my investigation.
    Okay, but if Odette reformed after the train crash, what was she doing at the back door secretly giving some guy a roll of dough? Okay, so if Odette had straightened up after the train accident, what was she doing behind the stage door secretly giving some guy a roll of bills?
    We are still talking apple of an eye when we want to define something extremely valuable.And what is the apple of an eye if not an integral part of an apple, an eyeball? We still say ‘the apple of the eye’ when we wish to describe something superlatively precious.
    Tongue will roll in my mouth. My tongue’s gonna roll to the back of my head.
    One woman suggested making a call so that he would ring every time the roll turns. One lady says we oughta have a little bell that rings ever ‘time the roll turns oncet.
    Tuck them into a rolled rubber mat and you create an ignition channel that will focus the flame in a specific location. Stuff them in a rolled-up rubber floor mat, and you’ve created a vent that will focus the flames into one area.
    I must have used up a whole roll of toilet paper. I must have gone through a whole roll of toilet paper.
    No, you didn’t use a whole roll of paper towels. No, you did not flush a whole roll of paper towels.
    A lock of hair may have caught on the tape roll. A strand of hair could have transferred to the roll of tape.
    Knife and a roll of duct tape in case I need to make a shelter or water container. A knife, roll of duct tape, in case I need to craft some shelter or make some sort of water vessel.
    To find a German reactor you only need an airplane and a roll of film. So all you need to find a German reactor is an airplane and a roll of Kodak.
    Blankets, bedding, drinks and most importantly of all soft toilet roll Blankets, beds, Coke, and most importantly of all soft toilet roll
    Did she have to pull that roll of fabric with her? Did she have to take in the bolt of fabric with her?
    Yes, it is an integral part. Yeah, that’s part of it.
    As soon as it ends, you put on a new roll. As soon as it runs out, you’ve got the new roll.
    Cobra Roll is an inversion of a roller coaster shaped like a cobra’s head. The cobra roll is a roller coaster inversion shaped to resemble a cobra’s head.
    The first cobra model to use a cobra roll was the Vekoma boomerang. The first coaster model to use a cobra roll was Vekoma’s Boomerang.
    It can be confused with a heart roll, also known as a barrel roll. It can be confused with a heartline roll, also known as a barrel roll.
    Paper stock is usually a continuous roll that is cut after design to meet customer size requirements. The paper stock is usually a continuous roll which cut after developing according to the size requirements of the customer.
    At the moment it is not applicable, because Serbia is not a country, but only a constituent Republic, which is part of a larger state. For the time being, it is inapplicable because Serbia is not a country, only a constituent republic forming one part of a larger state.
    In 1920, he placed squares of gauze at regular intervals on a roll of tape held in place by a crinoline. In 1920, he placed squares of gauze in intervals on a roll of tape, held in place with crinoline.
    A specialty toilet paper at $ 85 per roll in a set of six met its length requirements. A special kind of $ 85-per-roll toilet paper in a set of six met her length requirement.
    A toilet roll holder, also known as a toilet paper dispenser, is an item that contains a roll of toilet paper. A toilet roll holder, also known as a toilet paper dispenser, is an item that holds a roll of toilet paper.
    The ideology of radical feminism in the United States developed as an integral part of the women’s liberation movement. The ideology of radical feminism in the United States developed as a component of the women’s liberation movement.
    A similar preparation called Monk’s Balm or Compound Benzoin Tincture also contains Cape Aloe or Barbados Aloe and Storax gum. A similar preparation called Friar’s Balsam or Compound Benzoin Tincture contains, in addition, Cape aloes or Barbados aloes and storax resin.

    Can the spring mattress be rolled up

    When rolled up, the mattress takes up a minimum amount of space, which makes it easier not only to store it, but also to transport it. At first glance, it may seem that rolling the mattress is simply impossible, but in fact it is not. Modern models are able to resist transformation without harm to appearance and technical characteristics. If you find it difficult to choose, then the specialists of our store will be happy to help you and select for you a product that fully meets your wishes and financial capabilities.

    Can the spring mattress be twisted

    Owners of spring mattresses are sometimes faced with the need to roll up a berth. This procedure can occur during transportation, cleaning, rearranging furniture, and so on. Not every product is able to endure such manipulations without consequences, as a result, creases appear on them, the lining is damaged, the strapping fails. When choosing a mattress for yourself, pay attention to its ability to curl to avoid the formation of the above flaws.

    Traditionally, you can roll up products that are filled with materials such as:

    • Artificial polyurethane foam – its main characteristics are flexibility and elasticity.
    • Artificial latex – it can bend and unbend without further deformation.
    • Foam Foam is a fairly modern material, during the creation of which all its properties were carefully thought out, including the ability to twist it without losing its shape.

    If the filler of your mattress includes one of the above materials, then you can safely twist it when transporting it to another place. Rolled spring mattresses from the manufacturer are the safest way to buy a vacuum-packed mattress with a guarantee of its quality.

    How to roll the spring mattress

    Despite its visual simplicity, this procedure requires precision and care. Otherwise, you may damage the lining or main unit.

    It is worth remembering that not every mattress can be rolled up. Only those models are curled, the filler of which meets certain requirements. One of the criteria is the artificial origin of the material, and it should not contain coconut coir. For the best result, it is necessary that the twisting is done by several people. Then the roll will be fairly flat.

    Under no circumstances should models with a spring block over 20 cm be folded.

    Twisting stages:

    First you need to remove the upholstery of the product, pack it and transport it separately;

    • the top layer is carefully straightened, until the slightest wrinkles are absent;
    • starting from the narrow side, the product is folded neatly and slowly. In this case, you will need the help of one or two people. The process involves the use of heavy objects and various belts, otherwise the elastic springs cannot be folded;
    • it is important to remember that all twisting should not exceed two turns, and it is performed inward;
    • the resulting roll is securely fixed and packed in a dense film.After that, it can be safely transported or removed for storage.

    Rules for the transportation and storage of mattresses

    If you follow the technology and do everything according to the instructions, you can easily roll up the mattress with the filler from the spring block. If the product needs subsequent transportation, it is important to pay attention to some of the nuances that can preserve not only its appearance, but also its technical properties. Neglect of the rules of transportation can lead to damage to the upholstery, breakage of springs and other unpleasant consequences.

    The best option for transportation is vacuum packaging. By tightly wrapping the mattress with foil, you will protect it from getting wet, dust and dirt. In this form, it can be up to 12 months, after which the packaging must be removed, otherwise the product may deteriorate, since there will be no access to fresh air, and this can also lead to deformation of the springs and filler.

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